I have run a Dillon 550 for nearly 15 years across many calibers. The setup and operational discipline you reference applies across the board. Used properly, the press produces exceptionally consistent, superior ammunition. Your advice to slow down is spot on. Get into a proper cadence and flow and your productivity as the operator rises.
Great review and discussion of purpose. I use a semi progressive Lee Turret press because I do load lots of 500 in various calibers. I can change calibers in less than 5 minutes including resetting powder charge. Can safely crank out 175 cartridges per hour. This press would be great for pushing out high volumes.
I reloaded with Dillon progressive presses for decades (starting with an XL650 in the early 90s) but can no longer afford them. A few tips to make caliber changes go faster: - Always get another toolhead and powder when you get your die set (spend the extra money for carbide). Yes, it costs more, do it anyway (this coming from someone on a fixed income). All of your die settings and powder measurements never change and makes change-overs a breeze. - Get a cheap vertical (stick, not pistol style) cordless screwdriver and ball-head hex bits of the length(s) you need, put each bit in a container (or even a bit of masking tape around it) and label each bit with the screws it fits .Final tighten by hand This turns 20 minutes of screw turning into 2 minutes. - Work up each load separately, then commit to reloading a reasonable supply (3+ months) to keep caliber changes to a minimum. - ALWAYS keep a single stage press around for working up new loads (yes, this requires a second set of dies) to avoid tying up the progressive for days/weeks. Thanks for a great video series!
Thanks for the advice. I no longer load or shoot large quantities of anything, so I'll save my money for primers and continue with my old plodding reloading process.
Awsome presentation! Everything you said about reading direction, proper set up, adjustment and deliberate operation was spot on! I have been loading on an RCBS PRO200 for 28 years am considering a new press. I was looking at the X10 but I don't want that much hassle in a change over and think the RCBS Pro Chucker 7 would meet my needs.
Thank you for yet another informative video. Potentially useful tip re numerous sizes of screwheads & associated tools: colour code with a dot of unique colour (perhaps nail polish). Hopefully that's helpful to someone out there!✌ Regards
Good Video as always. I worked in manufacturing when the mold lube was in 55 gal drums ! I put 3 dabs of Lee lube in a gallon ziplock bag then add cases and roll the bag in my hands for a few seconds and get a consistent coverage with no mess.
I received my x-10 this week (9mm and 357 shell plates). I too am impressed with the design quality at a low comparative cost. I often complain about bushings used where roller bearings should be - quite the opposite with the X-10 - even the crank handle sleeve has roller bearings. My copy did not arrive perfect, but, I was able to overcome a few challenges. The detent ball and bore needed some honing to move freely, and the index lever was left loose. Neither was a big deal to remedy. My biggest complaint is the thread tap job. The die holders (7/8x14), shell plate retainer (M5x0.8) and primer gear mount (M4x0.7) all remained crunchy after repeated cleaning and flushing. These threads all needed to be chased to function properly. The die plate retainer bolt really should have a washer installed. Removing the remaining powder from the powder meter at the end of a session is a bit tedious but not a big deal considering the build quality of this meter. Product engineering is a series of compromises - there are very few compromises with the X-10. I added a hold down die above the primer station for consistency in seating depth. I'm currently troubleshooting a random jamb at case feed and round eject stations, but I suspect these are due to damaged case heads associated with my range salvaged brass.
Gunblue thank you for mentioning the issue with dies not being long enough or the thickness of the tool head. I had that problem with my dillon XL750 press
Wouldn't hurt to demonstrate again how you use the Lee lube. I've been using the gallon Ziploc method since you showed that some time back. Good stuff.
I love your videos, like so many folks I have learned so much. Thank you for being willing to share your knowledge. Can you tell me what kind of rifle vise you use for shooting. I can't tell from the videos but it looks like a well made one. Also, I love the videos that you make where you talk about the Bible. Keep up the good work, and God bless!
Thanks for the info been looking into this machine. Just haven’t pulled the trigger yet. Been running a RCBS chucker 5 stage who’s primer system I could never dial in. Have always primed my cases before putting them in progressive press. I’m hoping the system does better than the one I have. I don’t see myself changing out calibers often I’ll be doing 223 cases. Once again thanks for the information.
Your absolutely right you have to understand what you are getting into with a turret press its not as simple as just throwing it together and slamming shells out. You have to set up the machine properly and it takes time in setup. Example in the beginning i was having shells stuck in the resizing die little did i know the shells are all different lengths for different charges and projectiles. I found out later that i needed to check the shells and seperate them accordingly to there size in length aka 1.750 +or- 5 thousandths would work efficiently and smoothly in the machine. With smaller or larger shells have to modify or change the height of the dies to accommodate proper sizing, sealing serface for powder measure, projectile depth seating, and crimp. Its a cost that is not cheap but if you set it up right can cost less in the long run and be more time efficient.
Hi Gunblue, have you found time to get out in the woods after a beautiful NH whitetail? And if so did you take your Winchester model 94? Hope you and Mrs. Gunblue are well and happy Thanksgiving!
Thanks for this Mr GB. I've been waiting for your "honeymoon is over" perspective and here it is. I am not surprised that the problems people report, they are operator/assembler error. Not everyone has your mechanical aptitudes -- this I know from watching you do many different things on this channel. Many would dive in eagerly without the aptitude to sort out problems, to trouble-shoot a complex machine. I've been hanging fire on a press decision ever since I saw that you got this press and were documenting the journey. I trust your insights. I was leaning toward this press, but I would load 3 different centerfire rifle and maybe this isn't the best choice. Seems like it's closest to a Dillon 550C would that be fair? Or more like a Dillon 750? If you care to comment on that I'd appreciate it. God bless you and your family.
Get a dillon XL750 you will need a Caliber conversion kit for each caliber you reload. If you go with the dillon XL750 make sure the dies you get are long enough to resize.
@@boricuaarecibo9259 That's what many people have told me, especially people who have 750 presses! Most have said 750 for the centerfire rifle and a 550 for volume 9mm. I guess I'm wondering if the caliber changes are any more or less streamlined, comparing the Dillon to this Frankford Arsenal press.
I have a Dillon XL650 and have run tens of thousands of rounds on it. I load 9mm, .40 S&W, .45 ACP, .223, .308 & .300 AAC Blackout. Having multiple “caliber change” set ups minimizes adjustments going from one setup to another. Good luck to you.
When I upgraded from an RCBS pro chucker to a Dillin Super 1050, I expected to immediately crank out 2000 rph. Instead, I learned to work on a Dillon Ferrari rather than my old RCBS Tahoe. Each has quirks, updates, aftermarket stuff, and things it does well and things it won't do well. By the time you learn to load smoothly, you know every inch of your press.
What an awesome detailed review. I totally agree on the approach of a semi automated press for that person like me that reloads in burst. Though I am thinking about a dedicated press for 223. With 35 years experience as a reloader do you think this would be a good setup for dedicated 223
Thank you for the video. “ I can’t stand proprietary instructions for a manufacture’s press. Why should I have to read, follow, and understand the OEM directives ? I know what I am doing!!! I have been using a ( Brand X ) progressive press and already know how to set one up ! This press should have been designed to work like the one I have ! “ 🤣🤪🥲😜😂😆😄🙃😝😅
Thanks a lot for you answer. I am afraid you answered about older style revolver with one piece barrel where it is very hard to reduce(repair) large C/B gap. But I want to buy model 69 where is Barrel Shroud and inside is the barrel. From what I was able to find out, there is the problem how to screw out the barrel because Smith factory has a special tool for it, which goes inside the barrel and engages the rifling.... I am thinking about a substitute for this tool, I would probably use brass rod(shaft) of smaller diameter-probably 0,39" and 8 inches long together with quality epoxy glue, and I would glue it inside of the barrel at least 3 inches of that rod inside of the barrel and of course I would let it stick out . Than I hope I might be able to screw the barrel out to see whether I need to do anything with it to be able to screw it back in and only just a tiny bit more in, than it was..., to reduce that B/C gap. Removing the brass rod should be possible after I would warm up the barrel with hot air gun(epoxy glue loses all strentgh when heated to 150 C). The rest of glue should be removable via brass brush. Does it sound to you as a feasible plan or am I missing something ? Thanks a lot for your help. Regards from Czech Republic.
Thank you for convincing me that I don't need to "upgrade" my LnL AP to an X10. I can set up my LnL to everything an X10 can do... it just might take me two passes. I don't load enough, or plan to load enough, to warrant anything faster.
I picked up a dillon 550 from a friend, fully setup to load 9mm. No case feeder, but manualy inserting a case, a bullet, and indexing the shell plate is really not that much work. This looks like quite a fancy machine but for what i do, the dillon 550 is the one for me.
Looks a great machine & I have seen also UR review of it , I am a new subscriber & I don't know if you see this comment > my question is why the poster that says PETERS ? Great review & recommendation btw , I am saving my quartere to buy one & the necessary dies , Thank You
Thanks for the very informative and detailed video. I think like most presses, you learn the character of the press and deal with it. But I see that you have to actually bend over to cycle this press on the down stroke, which would seem to put a lot of stress on one's back. I am not comfortable sitting in a chair below the press level either. Is there any different gearing that can be modified to shorten this down stroke?
@@GunBlue490 would love to see a video from you on the step by step process for reloading 223. I haven’t gotten up the courage to try rifle rounds yet.
HWAT Did you say!? 2hr to change over for calibers! I could literally convert (size, trim, and expand from chopped brass) 1,000 pieces of 300 blackout and load 1,000 rounds of 9mm in 2hr with my Dillon XL750! Dillon has decades of amazing warranties + customer service behind their products.. I'm glad I skipped the X-10. Thanks for your detailed insight.
I run Dillions and Mark7 , I'll say they seem simpler to caliber change than the X10 (at a higher cost). The stroke seems awfully long on the x10 also. But a 10 station progressive press for the cost? Fantastic. For years we had very limited options in progressive reloading. The last 5 years or so has been an explosion in new options, and that'll just drive more competition. And once the wonderfully inventive aftermarket crowd has had time to offer their input into this press like they have Dillon and Hornady, etc, caliber changes will become quicker. With case feeder, and bullet feeder, it won't be long until automating options come out for it.
Competition is the ruler of all marketing, class 101. Dillon has ruled the progressive market for so long that they became synonymous with "pay here, it's your only choice". The FA X-10 will force them to take a look at their pricing, or they will soon be like Polaroid. Babes in bikinis will not save bad marketing.
@@GunBlue490 I don't disagree, but I think with Dillon being the major progressive name for so long, and their reputation and 'lifetime guarantee' on most of their presses - it'll be a long climb. But FA was genius to enter at the price-point they did for 10 station. Your only option before was Mark7/Lyman at a much different price-point. So instead of taking Dillon head-on, they went around. Being able to swage, and run a powder-check without having to combine seat & crimp is the best-in-class for pistol.
Maybe not I'm new with this as well its a learning experience. Take you time on every aspect of the machine, your cartridges, projectiles and powder. I'm willing to help anyone who is willing to accept my help. It is awesome I love my 5 position press its all in one for 223/556.
the problems with dillons are i spend a lot more on components and than end up cranking out loads and loads of ammo they do have quircks but are fairly simple to change over but still i try not to
Well, I certainly intend to use it for four calibers, understanding the investment of time involved. I've already used it for two calibers, and will do more.
@@GunBlue490Agree, with limited bench space, it would be better to change over components than to have a complete machine for each high volume cartridge loading one might use. Your review is well rounded. If I were to "graduate" to a progressive press, I would certainly use this review in weighing my options.
Hello sir, I live in Czech Republic, we have probably no gunsmith here which would know much about Smith revolvers... I plan to buy the only Smith m69 revolver available in whole Czech Republic... I already measured cilinder gap on it and it is big for a new revolver- it is close to 0,008(probabbly 0,0075) I would like to have it a lot smaller like half of that. Is it possible to remove the barrel sleeve, than screw the barrel in just a little bit to make the cilinder gap smaller ? Do you think I could call you to discuse this with you if I would ever try to do it ?(I do not have your number) Thanks for your help.
I am thrilled to hear from someone in the Czech Republic! Yes, a good gunsmith or machinist can certainly cut another thread and set the barrel back. This would require a barrel wrench or having one made, and also require the reaming of the barrel to its original depth and restoring the rifling taper (leade). The starting point of the thread must be exactly as originally cut on the barrel in order to reposition the finished product. Of course, the center pin and ejector rod must be shortened correctly, and the ejector rod beveled for closure. One must study and understand the locking relationship of the center pin/rod to the locking bolt under the barrel. Great care must be taken to allow for a tight crush fit of the shoulder of the barrel to frame to achieve top dead center. This is achieved by striking a witness mark with a fine chisel across the underside of the barrel where it meets the frame before unwinding the two. Older revolvers have such marks from the factory. I am guessing that about 40 to 80 inch pounds of torque would do the trick, but if the witness mark and thread timing are preserved, the torque will be correct automatically. I'm sorry, but I do not accept personal phone calls, which would inundate me. Thank you and God bless.
@@GunBlue490 Thanks a lot for you answer. I am afraid you answered about older style revolver with one piece barrel where it is very hard to reduce(repair) large C/B gap. But I want to buy model 69 where is Barrel Shroud and inside is the barrel. From what I was able to find out, there is the problem how to screw out the barrel because Smith factory has a special tool for it, which goes inside the barrel and engages the rifling.... I am thinking about a substitute for this tool, I would probably use brass rod(shaft) of smaller diameter-probably 0,39" and 8 inches long together with quality epoxy glue, and I would glue it inside of the barrel at least 3 inches of that rod inside of the barrel and of course I would let it stick out . Than I hope I might be able to screw the barrel out to see whether I need to do anything with it to be able to screw it back in and only just a tiny bit more in, than it was..., to reduce that B/C gap. Removing the brass rod should be possible after I would warm up the barrel with hot air gun(epoxy glue loses all strentgh when heated to 150 C). The rest of glue should be removable via brass brush. Does it sound to you as a feasible plan or am I missing something ? Thanks a lot for your help. Regards from Czech Republic.
ALL of us have a legitimate reason to seriously complain when its the pathetically schitty manuals that come with commi china junk, but there is no good excuse for problems that occur with an item when entities like Frankfort Arsenal provided clear and detailed information within their manual. A lot of problems come about due to the users who are sadly lazy whereby dont want to read and concentrate on what theyre reading.
Хобби
I have run a Dillon 550 for nearly 15 years across many calibers. The setup and operational discipline you reference applies across the board. Used properly, the press produces exceptionally consistent, superior ammunition. Your advice to slow down is spot on. Get into a proper cadence and flow and your productivity as the operator rises.
Now that's a machine you definitely deserve. Hope to see some of the fruits of your labor at the range. HAPPY THANKSGIVING!!!!! 👍
Great review and discussion of purpose. I use a semi progressive Lee Turret press because I do load lots of 500 in various calibers. I can change calibers in less than 5 minutes including resetting powder charge. Can safely crank out 175 cartridges per hour.
This press would be great for pushing out high volumes.
Thank you for the great service and effort you put into this keep the signal going strong 💪
Great review, Thank you for sharing any difficulties.
Great content and excellent delivery. Appreciate that you have chosen to share your expertise and knowledge.
Thank you for your review and honest explanation(s). This really helps me narrow down what I will be adding to the bench.
I really appreciate your advice and review of this press. Blessings from Australia.
I reloaded with Dillon progressive presses for decades (starting with an XL650 in the early 90s) but can no longer afford them. A few tips to make caliber changes go faster:
- Always get another toolhead and powder when you get your die set (spend the extra money for carbide). Yes, it costs more, do it anyway (this coming from someone on a fixed income). All of your die settings and powder measurements never change and makes change-overs a breeze.
- Get a cheap vertical (stick, not pistol style) cordless screwdriver and ball-head hex bits of the length(s) you need, put each bit in a container (or even a bit of masking tape around it) and label each bit with the screws it fits .Final tighten by hand This turns 20 minutes of screw turning into 2 minutes.
- Work up each load separately, then commit to reloading a reasonable supply (3+ months) to keep caliber changes to a minimum.
- ALWAYS keep a single stage press around for working up new loads (yes, this requires a second set of dies) to avoid tying up the progressive for days/weeks.
Thanks for a great video series!
Happy Thanksgiving. Very informative video , from watching your setup videos , I was very surprised on the change over time.
Details matter and your video gives great detail. Thank you so much!!
Thank you sir for the supreme knowledge god bless you and your family thank you again
Always great videos, and enjoy listening, good stuff.
Thanks for the advice. I no longer load or shoot large quantities of anything, so I'll save my money for primers and continue with my old plodding reloading process.
Seems like a good unit, but way more machine than I would ever need. Thanks for reviewing it.
Sir, you make the best reloading videos. Greetings from Austria Hannes
Awsome presentation! Everything you said about reading direction, proper set up, adjustment and deliberate operation was spot on! I have been loading on an RCBS PRO200 for 28 years am considering a new press. I was looking at the X10 but I don't want that much hassle in a change over and think the RCBS Pro Chucker 7 would meet my needs.
Thank you for yet another informative video.
Potentially useful tip re numerous sizes of screwheads & associated tools: colour code with a dot of unique colour (perhaps nail polish). Hopefully that's helpful to someone out there!✌
Regards
Good Video as always. I worked in manufacturing when the mold lube was in 55 gal drums !
I put 3 dabs of Lee lube in a gallon ziplock bag then add cases and roll the bag in my hands for a few seconds and get a consistent coverage with no mess.
I received my x-10 this week (9mm and 357 shell plates). I too am impressed with the design quality at a low comparative cost. I often complain about bushings used where roller bearings should be - quite the opposite with the X-10 - even the crank handle sleeve has roller bearings.
My copy did not arrive perfect, but, I was able to overcome a few challenges. The detent ball and bore needed some honing to move freely, and the index lever was left loose. Neither was a big deal to remedy.
My biggest complaint is the thread tap job. The die holders (7/8x14), shell plate retainer (M5x0.8) and primer gear mount (M4x0.7) all remained crunchy after repeated cleaning and flushing. These threads all needed to be chased to function properly. The die plate retainer bolt really should have a washer installed.
Removing the remaining powder from the powder meter at the end of a session is a bit tedious but not a big deal considering the build quality of this meter. Product engineering is a series of compromises - there are very few compromises with the X-10.
I added a hold down die above the primer station for consistency in seating depth. I'm currently troubleshooting a random jamb at case feed and round eject stations, but I suspect these are due to damaged case heads associated with my range salvaged brass.
Gunblue thank you for mentioning the issue with dies not being long enough or the thickness of the tool head. I had that problem with my dillon XL750 press
BRILLIANT DEMO BEAUTIFUL MACHINE DESCRIPTION BY AN EXPERT!!!!❤
When all else fails, READ THE INSTRUCTIONS.
Amen brother.Still miss Benny.
Your skill is wonderful.
Wouldn't hurt to demonstrate again how you use the Lee lube. I've been using the gallon Ziploc method since you showed that some time back.
Good stuff.
I love your videos, like so many folks I have learned so much. Thank you for being willing to share your knowledge. Can you tell me what kind of rifle vise you use for shooting. I can't tell from the videos but it looks like a well made one. Also, I love the videos that you make where you talk about the Bible. Keep up the good work, and God bless!
Thanks for the info been looking into this machine. Just haven’t pulled the trigger yet. Been running a RCBS chucker 5 stage who’s primer system I could never dial in. Have always primed my cases before putting them in progressive press. I’m hoping the system does better than the one I have. I don’t see myself changing out calibers often I’ll be doing 223 cases. Once again thanks for the information.
My Dad said it best I think…”When all else fails, read the directions”. 😅
The motto of those who waste everybody's time and damage valuable equipment 🙄
RTFM😁
@@beargillium2369 You do realize it’s a joke, right?
@@Reindeer-ry2lf In Navy Schools it was RTFQ! 😜
Your absolutely right you have to understand what you are getting into with a turret press its not as simple as just throwing it together and slamming shells out. You have to set up the machine properly and it takes time in setup. Example in the beginning i was having shells stuck in the resizing die little did i know the shells are all different lengths for different charges and projectiles. I found out later that i needed to check the shells and seperate them accordingly to there size in length aka 1.750 +or- 5 thousandths would work efficiently and smoothly in the machine. With smaller or larger shells have to modify or change the height of the dies to accommodate proper sizing, sealing serface for powder measure, projectile depth seating, and crimp. Its a cost that is not cheap but if you set it up right can cost less in the long run and be more time efficient.
I'll keep my Lee Classic Cast single stage.
Hi Gunblue, have you found time to get out in the woods after a beautiful NH whitetail? And if so did you take your Winchester model 94?
Hope you and Mrs. Gunblue are well and happy Thanksgiving!
Would love to see this a video on ccw weapns from this guy.
We were shooting in really bad conditions yesterday. Had the range all to ourselves.
Thanks for this Mr GB. I've been waiting for your "honeymoon is over" perspective and here it is.
I am not surprised that the problems people report, they are operator/assembler error. Not everyone has your mechanical aptitudes -- this I know from watching you do many different things on this channel. Many would dive in eagerly without the aptitude to sort out problems, to trouble-shoot a complex machine.
I've been hanging fire on a press decision ever since I saw that you got this press and were documenting the journey. I trust your insights. I was leaning toward this press, but I would load 3 different centerfire rifle and maybe this isn't the best choice. Seems like it's closest to a Dillon 550C would that be fair? Or more like a Dillon 750? If you care to comment on that I'd appreciate it.
God bless you and your family.
I've got a couple of old rcbs rockchucker presses that I have set up for a assembly line loading
Get a dillon XL750 you will need a Caliber conversion kit for each caliber you reload.
If you go with the dillon XL750 make sure the dies you get are long enough to resize.
@@boricuaarecibo9259 That's what many people have told me, especially people who have 750 presses! Most have said 750 for the centerfire rifle and a 550 for volume 9mm. I guess I'm wondering if the caliber changes are any more or less streamlined, comparing the Dillon to this Frankford Arsenal press.
I have a Dillon XL650 and have run tens of thousands of rounds on it. I load 9mm, .40 S&W, .45 ACP, .223, .308 & .300 AAC Blackout. Having multiple “caliber change” set ups minimizes adjustments going from one setup to another. Good luck to you.
@@Preceptor-lf1ht Thanks for your thoughts.
When I upgraded from an RCBS pro chucker to a Dillin Super 1050, I expected to immediately crank out 2000 rph.
Instead, I learned to work on a Dillon Ferrari rather than my old RCBS Tahoe. Each has quirks, updates, aftermarket stuff, and things it does well and things it won't do well. By the time you learn to load smoothly, you know every inch of your press.
What an awesome detailed review. I totally agree on the approach of a semi automated press for that person like me that reloads in burst. Though I am thinking about a dedicated press for 223. With 35 years experience as a reloader do you think this would be a good setup for dedicated 223
Thank you for the video.
“ I can’t stand proprietary instructions for a manufacture’s press. Why should I have to read, follow, and understand the OEM directives ? I know what I am doing!!! I have been using a ( Brand X ) progressive press and already know how to set one up ! This press should have been designed to work like the one I have ! “
🤣🤪🥲😜😂😆😄🙃😝😅
Thx for this video.
Thanks a lot for you answer. I am afraid you answered about older style revolver with one piece barrel where it is very hard to reduce(repair) large C/B gap. But I want to buy model 69 where is Barrel Shroud and inside is the barrel. From what I was able to find out, there is the problem how to screw out the barrel because Smith factory has a special tool for it, which goes inside the barrel and engages the rifling.... I am thinking about a substitute for this tool, I would probably use brass rod(shaft) of smaller diameter-probably 0,39" and 8 inches long together with quality epoxy glue, and I would glue it inside of the barrel at least 3 inches of that rod inside of the barrel and of course I would let it stick out . Than I hope I might be able to screw the barrel out to see whether I need to do anything with it to be able to screw it back in and only just a tiny bit more in, than it was..., to reduce that B/C gap. Removing the brass rod should be possible after I would warm up the barrel with hot air gun(epoxy glue loses all strentgh when heated to 150 C). The rest of glue should be removable via brass brush. Does it sound to you as a feasible plan or am I missing something ? Thanks a lot for your help. Regards from Czech Republic.
Thank you for convincing me that I don't need to "upgrade" my LnL AP to an X10. I can set up my LnL to everything an X10 can do... it just might take me two passes. I don't load enough, or plan to load enough, to warrant anything faster.
I picked up a dillon 550 from a friend, fully setup to load 9mm. No case feeder, but manualy inserting a case, a bullet, and indexing the shell plate is really not that much work. This looks like quite a fancy machine but for what i do, the dillon 550 is the one for me.
Using a single press this would definitely be a step up
Second video in a row, bot related. That went from 299 to 300 when I liked it. Spooky algorithm voodoo magic got me shaking
Looks a great machine & I have seen also UR review of it ,
I am a new subscriber & I don't know if you see this comment > my question is why the poster that says PETERS ?
Great review & recommendation btw , I am saving my quartere to buy one & the necessary dies , Thank You
I love my machine got it all set up but I use a Dillon powder measure instead of the FA One
Thanks for the very informative and detailed video. I think like most presses, you learn the character of the press and deal with it. But I see that you have to actually bend over to cycle this press on the down stroke, which would seem to put a lot of stress on one's back. I am not comfortable sitting in a chair below the press level either. Is there any different gearing that can be modified to shorten this down stroke?
Awesome video.
Sure looks like a great machine. Would be a step up from my Rock Chucker 😊
That's an understatement. I loaded many thousands of rounds with my Rockchucker, and it's a fantastic press, but it's not a progressive machine.
@@GunBlue490 would love to see a video from you on the step by step process for reloading 223. I haven’t gotten up the courage to try rifle rounds yet.
HWAT Did you say!? 2hr to change over for calibers! I could literally convert (size, trim, and expand from chopped brass) 1,000 pieces of 300 blackout and load 1,000 rounds of 9mm in 2hr with my Dillon XL750! Dillon has decades of amazing warranties + customer service behind their products.. I'm glad I skipped the X-10. Thanks for your detailed insight.
I’m just getting into reloading, so I thought I should run a single stage for a year or so before I set up my Hornady progressive
I enjoy using the Hornady AP press. It may not be the best but it’s great for the price.
I run Dillions and Mark7 , I'll say they seem simpler to caliber change than the X10 (at a higher cost). The stroke seems awfully long on the x10 also. But a 10 station progressive press for the cost? Fantastic. For years we had very limited options in progressive reloading. The last 5 years or so has been an explosion in new options, and that'll just drive more competition. And once the wonderfully inventive aftermarket crowd has had time to offer their input into this press like they have Dillon and Hornady, etc, caliber changes will become quicker. With case feeder, and bullet feeder, it won't be long until automating options come out for it.
Competition is the ruler of all marketing, class 101. Dillon has ruled the progressive market for so long that they became synonymous with "pay here, it's your only choice". The FA X-10 will force them to take a look at their pricing, or they will soon be like Polaroid. Babes in bikinis will not save bad marketing.
@@GunBlue490 I don't disagree, but I think with Dillon being the major progressive name for so long, and their reputation and 'lifetime guarantee' on most of their presses - it'll be a long climb. But FA was genius to enter at the price-point they did for 10 station. Your only option before was Mark7/Lyman at a much different price-point. So instead of taking Dillon head-on, they went around. Being able to swage, and run a powder-check without having to combine seat & crimp is the best-in-class for pistol.
I noticed you are loading 223 and military 556 cases so is the powder charge stay the same for 223 and 556? Thanks For All You Do
Been thinking about getting into reloading for my new M1a. May need to check into this
Edit: actually may be too much machine for a newbie.
Maybe not I'm new with this as well its a learning experience. Take you time on every aspect of the machine, your cartridges, projectiles and powder. I'm willing to help anyone who is willing to accept my help. It is awesome I love my 5 position press its all in one for 223/556.
@thomass2055 for sure. Thanks for the advice sir!
👍👍
Bottle neck cases tend to grow after sizing. When do you trim?
the problems with dillons are i spend a lot more on components and than end up cranking out loads and loads of ammo they do have quircks but are fairly simple to change over but still i try not to
Is the Dillion the same type set up
How precise is the powder thrower with long grain powders? Thank you.
I'm curious how this attacks up to an equivalent Dillon machine in terms of price and ease of caliber change.
This is a machine to setup for 1 caliber and leave it.
Well, I certainly intend to use it for four calibers, understanding the investment of time involved. I've already used it for two calibers, and will do more.
I wouldn't need a lot of ammo myself.
@@GunBlue490Agree, with limited bench space, it would be better to change over components than to have a complete machine for each high volume cartridge loading one might use.
Your review is well rounded.
If I were to "graduate" to a progressive press, I would certainly use this review in weighing my options.
where can I find that alignment die you were using for 223?
... lost interest in that contraption after the 1st minute ... gimme my Lee hand press any day
on pistol calibers you need 10 stations
Sir how about the trimming of case 223 how do you run for that machine
Lee makes a trim die that you can position appropriately. I generally prefer to trim oversize cases with a separate operation ahead of everything.
Do you use a Powder Check Die on it?
A powder check is a must have. I added a powder check to my dillon XL750 press after I had a squib load in my brand new 3" colt python
Any update?
Hello sir, I live in Czech Republic, we have probably no gunsmith here which would know much about Smith revolvers... I plan to buy the only Smith m69 revolver available in whole Czech Republic... I already measured cilinder gap on it and it is big for a new revolver- it is close to 0,008(probabbly 0,0075) I would like to have it a lot smaller like half of that. Is it possible to remove the barrel sleeve, than screw the barrel in just a little bit to make the cilinder gap smaller ? Do you think I could call you to discuse this with you if I would ever try to do it ?(I do not have your number) Thanks for your help.
I am thrilled to hear from someone in the Czech Republic! Yes, a good gunsmith or machinist can certainly cut another thread and set the barrel back. This would require a barrel wrench or having one made, and also require the reaming of the barrel to its original depth and restoring the rifling taper (leade). The starting point of the thread must be exactly as originally cut on the barrel in order to reposition the finished product. Of course, the center pin and ejector rod must be shortened correctly, and the ejector rod beveled for closure. One must study and understand the locking relationship of the center pin/rod to the locking bolt under the barrel. Great care must be taken to allow for a tight crush fit of the shoulder of the barrel to frame to achieve top dead center. This is achieved by striking a witness mark with a fine chisel across the underside of the barrel where it meets the frame before unwinding the two. Older revolvers have such marks from the factory. I am guessing that about 40 to 80 inch pounds of torque would do the trick, but if the witness mark and thread timing are preserved, the torque will be correct automatically.
I'm sorry, but I do not accept personal phone calls, which would inundate me.
Thank you and God bless.
@@GunBlue490 Thanks a lot for you answer. I am afraid you answered about older style revolver with one piece barrel where it is very hard to reduce(repair) large C/B gap. But I want to buy model 69 where is Barrel Shroud and inside is the barrel. From what I was able to find out, there is the problem how to screw out the barrel because Smith factory has a special tool for it, which goes inside the barrel and engages the rifling.... I am thinking about a substitute for this tool, I would probably use brass rod(shaft) of smaller diameter-probably 0,39" and 8 inches long together with quality epoxy glue, and I would glue it inside of the barrel at least 3 inches of that rod inside of the barrel and of course I would let it stick out . Than I hope I might be able to screw the barrel out to see whether I need to do anything with it to be able to screw it back in and only just a tiny bit more in, than it was..., to reduce that B/C gap. Removing the brass rod should be possible after I would warm up the barrel with hot air gun(epoxy glue loses all strentgh when heated to 150 C). The rest of glue should be removable via brass brush. Does it sound to you as a feasible plan or am I missing something ? Thanks a lot for your help. Regards from Czech Republic.
The difference between a reloaded and a woman is that the reloaded comes with a manual 😂
How about 4 months after?
It works just as efficiently, and I'm more efficient with it.
ALL of us have a legitimate reason to seriously complain when its the pathetically schitty manuals that come with commi china junk, but there is no good excuse for problems that occur with an item when entities like Frankfort Arsenal provided clear and detailed information within their manual. A lot of problems come about due to the users who are sadly lazy whereby dont want to read and concentrate on what theyre reading.
Please paint the dry wall.
Good morning my friend, is there a way to message you with an email?
Thanks