Cleaning outboard water passages
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- Опубликовано: 18 авг 2017
- In this video I attempt to clean the cooling passages in three outboard heads using different chemicals. I try using Salt Away, Hydrchloric acid (muriatic acid) and white vinegar.
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If anyone wants to run whatever product through an outboard, may I recommend the use of a small submersble pump? I have a pond fountain pump, quite grunty, with a hose I can connect to earmuffs. Then you can put Saltaway or whatever in a tub with hot water, position the prop over the tub and leave it circulating though the engine without the motor running for as long as you like. Thermostat removal is recommended for flow through the head, though. Dangar Marine is the best. Thanks you guys.
Sounds like a good tip. :)
That's exactly what I did for my jet ski and really really work
Have you ever heard about cleaning with Pine Sol? I cleaned a carburetor with it and it turned out like new! I plan on running it through a 9.9 outboard I have that is overheating and shutting down after 4-5 minutes of idling!
I like your idea.🙂
Mate, you put your videos together really well, very articulate and informative. Cheers👍🏻
Cheers for the video mate, you just saved me from wasting a bit of money for nothing, your videos are great. Thanks for all your time and energy to help us keep out motors going great 😊
You're welcome Rod, glad the video helped you. :)
Interesting video, thanks for all the great content! My classmates and I all talk about your videos at Marine Service Technician school!
Thanks mate. Hope you're enjoying your technician school. Good luck with the course! :)
Every time I come across a problem on my engine, you've just uploaded a video that tells me a good solution for it! Thanks Stu.
Ordered a T-Shirt! :)
Thanks Ryan, be careful if you do use acid and be sure to send me a photo of you in your shirt so I can put it up on the wall!
I think i'm going to go for the scrubbing them method! :)
Very logical follow-up. Cheers Dangar Stu!
Another awesome vid danger stu really enjoying them please keep them coming! I wait every Sunday for a new one!!
Thanks Dallas, glad you've been enjoying. :)
Great video Stu! It was Interesting to see what each solution did to the parts and how well it cleaned.
Thanks Jack. :)
New to me boater here (boats old) learning a lot from your channel!
Excellent comparison of products Stu, Glad to see you went in with your RUBBERS on !!!!. Those chemicals can be a skin irritant, or if you got an itchy eye. Glad you went on the topic of the impeller as I thought about it a second before you said it. Thank u for another splendid video Bud.
Thanks mate. Glad you liked it. Not sure how useful the information is really but it was fun. :)
Thanks, saved us all a load of time and effort.
You're welcome!
First af all thank for sharing your knowledge with us, i've seen lot of your videos and thanks to you i did most of maintenance and repair by myself. My 60 hp yamaha (2008) started to suffer of overheating problems in the last year in a discontinue way. First i tried to clean it with dishwasher tablets it seemed to improve but after a few months the problem came again. Then after a month was working well again and then the problem reappear again. Today i did a 1 hour 45 min flush with hydrocloric acid, in 15 liters of fresh water i added 1 liter of 33% concentrate acid and 1 liter of 10%. Soon after i mounted back the thermostat ( i was surprised to see how clean was the thermostat slot) and i did a run test for 20 minutes at high rpm (up to 5100) it didnt suffer of overheating problem at all, on the display it was stuck on the 3rd score. Then i measured with gun thermometer and close to thermostat it was 64 °C and that should be fine instead in an areas in the upper side it was 98 °C. Do you think should i worry that there is a passage in the upper side that is blocked? Thank you again
Good to see all three tested together. My 40 Yamaha 2 stroke (5 year old) wasn't spitting out much water so I tried 50/50 vinegar and water in a tub. Four ten minute sessions running the solution through fixed it right up. It was slowly heating up so I needed to let it cool down between the sessions. The tub was quite milky at the end with fine white grainy bits in the bottom.
The the gunk in the tub it sounds like it really got a fair bit of the mud and salt out. Nice one!
Not to mention cheap and enviro friendly.
Many thanks Stu: you and your videos are just plum excellent. My trusty old 1986 40HP Yamaha 2-stroke started overheating - even at walking pace - so I've tried all sorts to flush it out. Neat Vinegar dissolved coarse sea salt (in my kitchen experiments) better than other things, but was no good on the mud/sand/shell/salt/corrosion deposits blocking the outboard waterways. The only stuff that finally did the trick was that HCl product that you used: eventually at about 30:1 ratio with water (2.5L HCl to 75L water): it quickly turned the clear flush solution light-brown, and left about 1/4 cup of 'interesting' deposits in the big bin (80L) after each 30min flush. The flush solution also heats up (to maybe 30-40C), which helps the process, as does the shaking/agitation of a running engine. I did a 10min fresh-water flush after each HCl flush (to dilute any residual acid to nothing important). My brand-new thermostat, and it's housing, look perfect, and the tell-tale is spewing water like a jet (so the impeller is still good-as-gold), and I can motor along on the plane once again, without the pesky red light coming on. So, heat, motion, solution-concentration and acid-type all play a part. Keep up the great work.
Thanks mate, my mate Paul went through a similar HCl process after having chronic overheating. His also running very nicely now.
Worked great on my 115 Yamaha. 2004 model. Cleaned up I put it 100 percent hca for 30 mi uses. Great results
Hello again Stu: @@DangarMarine Had a blocked tell-tale today and tried something new that worked great. With the thermostat out/cover-off and engine running I connected a sturdy bicycle pump to the metal outlet/pipe for the tell-tale and pumped air+water back up through that exhaust jacket and out the thermostat hole. This dislodged easy 1/2 cup of gritty/corrosion deposits (against gravity) and the tell-tale now spews out clean and fast.
Two thumbs up !!
An original test by Stu !!
I should have worn a lab coat. ;)
Great test!
Acids will not affect plastic or rubber!
They come packaged in plastic!
But they will affect aluminum!
Concentration is the key!
HCl will dissolve aluminum but it takes a long time so not really a worry!
Fresh water after every trip is the ticket!
Strong hot solution of HCl for a badly corroded engine.
awesome video! I had a evinrude 88hp that kept over heating. I changed out the head gasket and still the same problem. After seeing this video I put 35 gal. of water in a barrel with 1/2 gal of acid. I tested it on a rock to see if it would foam up just a little,and i was good to go. I disconnected the hose at the discharge and nothing. but after 2 min. it broke through and now water flows from both sides like a fire hose. After that you need to flush,flush,flush. If you want you can refill your barrel and add about 2 lbs. of baking soda to neutralize the acid. Thanks for saving me another $400.00
Glad it helped you. Yes, flushing and neutralising the acid is a great thing to do to stop it going too far.
Here in Florida I found few things that worked for me. First..most products on market are designed to do quickly flush when you are just done boating **fresh build up of saltwater** that is reason why they call it **flush** same thing you do to the rest of the boat /trailer...To disolve old hardened salt is like opening Pandora's box, each motor will have it's own story... This is what I have been doing on my 90hp 1994 outboard Yamaha for years (I do trailer and store dry my boat). So far worked for me .. After every use, I do 5 min flush with plain clean fresh water with muffs, then 5 -10 min (CLR cleaner) into the dosing unit of flush kit until gone, and at last 5 min with (saltaway) solution ..BTW.. Motor is running in idle, I did replace gasket on the cylinder head once but never ever had any build up... I hope this helps folk.. FYI.. I run only 30psi pressure on my garden hose for the muffs, I found out that reducing pressure little bit allows chemicals to work longer and better .. good luck...
There is no doubt that flushing regularly is the way to go. Freshwater, CLR and then Saltway is a serious routine. I'm not surprised it was clean. :)
Nice video! I use pure vinegar no water added to clean rusted parts and works better than any product for that purpose.
Yes, I think pure vinegar would have been interesting to see, and a good way to go for soaking smaller parts.
Thanks for another good vid Kim Canada
Also try anything with Citric Acid..., heated in a pan with light brushing... It's a very safe cleaner used in radiator flush.., sold in the auto parts stores...
Hi Stu, thanks so much for this. My Suzuki DF50 - 2008 was very much in need of serious flushing. I opted for neat white vinegar and found that, after circulating it for an hour (with the thermostat out), I got about two teaspoons full of gunk in the bottom of the bin I was using.
I kept the vinegar and tried it again the following week and got the same result. Since then I've done this around 8 times over the last month or so and I'm still getting a good quantity of gunk out (although down to about 1.5 teaspoonfuls per go now)
It's hard to believe there's so much stuff in there - certainly explains why the thermostat was stuck open.
Thanks again for these amazing videos, you're helping thousands of guys like me to look after our boats AND learn while we go!
Hi Mike. I think having the water circulating and the natural head of the motor too will help a lot with cleaning. Your experience goes to show how regularly you need to flush to keep a motor clean!
hello dangar, I have tried many things and here is my favorite list. caustic soda. (remember to clean with fresh water) cleaning tablets for dishwasher. Cooler cleaner for car worked best. and so it's designed to not attack the metal.
And hello from Denmark , Its the Best Channel on youtube ☝️💪 keep up the the good work !
I've certainly washed parts with dishwasher cleaner before, it does the trick! :)
AIR COOLER CLEANER Not Compatible: May swell rubber and synthetic rubber. Be careful with the impeller and other stuff like gaskets made out of rubber!
haha as predicted...the old vinegar did sweet FA. Interesting vid Stu. Thanks
Thanks Mark!
Hi mate I just wanted to say thank you for breaking everything down helping us understand love how you break everything down I have a 1999 225 evinruide Ficht and I put new water pump I still can’t get water out the tell tail I don’t get it I let it run like 5 10 min. at a time let it cool down like 20 mins still nothing any info would be awesome thank you I’m so agervated with this I don’t have the money to bring to shop thankx again you already been a huge help stay healthy and safe mate
Excellent experiment and presentation. With hydrochloric and any concentrated acid - it must be poured into water and not the other way, heat of mixing could make it splash out of container. Just a note, you did it correctly.
Thanks mate, good to know. :)
I've run my boats annually for an hour in a bucket or trash can with 30 - 100% vinegar and it has improved the temperature every time. An when I neutralize the stuff in the can before putting it down the drain, you would not believe how much junk precipitates! I've done lots of acid cleaning of industrial heat exchangers and would never use HCl on aluminum. But for daily flush I'd add salt away when if I ran in salt water much.
hi . i have some truble w/ water tell tale so deside clean w/ muriatic accid . inyected fpr the tell tale x 1 hr and runn the motor for 2 hr 3 day and now look work like new !!!
Thank you for the video Stu. If I ever take on an overheating outboard I will strip it and wash out with diluted acid. I doubt I would try running it through a complete motor however.
Hi Matthew. That sounds like a sound approach. :)
Thank you...again!
Something like Subaru upper engine or cleaner or equivalent product would be an interesting test also. Have also had great results de-coking masses of solid hard built up carbon in classic motorcycle cylinder heads using gasket remover. Head removed of course, Turns the carbon to a slime, might be effective in the water jackets too
Good info!!
thanks again!
I use diluted hydrochloric acid as a general de-rust agent. I also put in a small amount of liquid soap as a wetting agent..
I've used Saltaway and Rydlyme, via an extended flush with a bilge pump in a bucket underneath my motor. Rydlyme rocks, but it is expensive. Also seen good results with the acid.
Hi Stu. Another good vid. I can't remember if you mentioned this but you should always add acid to water, never water to acid as it could result in serious injury.
Hi Greg. Ah, I didn't mention (or do) that, but sounds like excellent advice.
Hydrocloricacide has been being used on air conditioning condensers and evaporator coils for many many years. The aluminum fins are about a 16 of an inch thick and it cleans them to looking shiny new. It is mixed a lot stronger than 20 to 1 though so it shouldn't hurt your application at all but leaving it on it for hours or overnight might eat off some of the thinner aluminum. Have a good day and I enjoy your videos
Thanks mate, interesting to hear your experience with much thinner metal.
I had an overheating motor. I used a sump pump in a bucket under my lower unit and poured 6 gal of white vinegar undiluted. I discharged the pump through the tell tale connection and let it run about 8 hours, It worked, no overheating.
Did the same thing with Rydlyme, worked great! No more overheating
Thanks for the video, information, and side-by-side comparison. I'm currently working on an '88 Evinrude 90hp that is overheating even after replacing the impeller. I really need to remove/replace the thermostats before trying a chemical flush. Think I'll just remove the leg, connect a holes to the water tube with a pump in a tub under outboard with the muriatic acid. Pump that thru the water passages a while and see what happens.
Great video. If you do another one of these in the future we'd love to supply you with our Barnacle Buster. It's a great solution for cleaning our raw water cooling system, it's actually the #1 selling marine descaler on the market, so if you'd like to try it out, let us know and we will have our Australian distributor send you some.
Most products are used to prevent/slowdown outboards getting to that stage in the first place I think.I have always flushed my outboards,boats and trailers with fresh water immediately after launching (trailer) and retrieval (all 3),then given them a thorough rinse clean again once home with warm/hot water as it dissolves salt much better than cold.
The worse thing that you can do is combine periodic flushing with lack of use as I firmly believe that running them more frequently the salt has less chance to crystallize in the water jackets etc.
Thanks again for the efforts you've gone to.
Hey Fabian, couldn't agree more that regular flushing to prevent things ever getting this bad is the way to go. I think heat was definitely one of the missing ingredients in this test though.
@@DangarMarine i fresh water flush religiously...and the results are thesame when taken apart...they all have the mineral deposits..Im guessing that continued operation is better than intermittent operation..based on when i was a kid, living in the keys, this was never a problem...as we ran the little outboards 4 to 115 hp omc..early 70s almost continuously. as ive said before, stop and go...heat cycles and evaporation with the thermostats spitting a little wateror some designed not to pass any water...i believe is the cause of buildup.. Notice no hardwater deposits in a pan when it is boiling, but it gets pretty crustyif you let the water in a pan evaporate with heat on. :) just an observation
THANK-YOU !!!!
Interesting follow up Stu, I agree with an old outboard that the passages clogged. Only other option is to remove everything and clean by hand. If this can be run through the cooling system with the motor in a water tank with the water/solution mix that would be great. I know on vehicle engines they can clog up with old motor oil and can be flushed by over the counter products but I'm sure if you read the ingredients there is something that could be used from a store or hardware that would be the same and less costly. The end result on motors is a longer life span. good video
Hey Tim. Yes, I was wondering what is in your average radiator flush than might be useful in an outboard too.
This one is the standard here for flushing radiators. I will look up what the chemical makeup is and let you know.
www.oreillyauto.com/detail/prestone-4666/chemicals---fluids-16461/maintenance-chemicals-16867/radiator-chemicals-16623/radiator-flush-17737/radiator-super-flush/as107/4666546?q=Radiator+flush
Here is the MSDS chemical info
drive.google.com/file/d/0B8mvZUUxU9_QclF0NVVvWHEzaG1MbTdUTGluSEo5bnk5WmxJ/view?usp=drivesdk
Interesting fact is the chemical in this is sodium citrate/citric acid. It's only sold by the drug stores with a prescription for removing kidney stones. Haha if you have them you can clean you're engine cooling system and get rid of kidney stones at the same time. Update, just read today you can make sodium citrate from 2.1g citric acid and 2.5g of sodium bicarbonate mixed with water.
Thanks for sharing I find that your videos are very informative and have saved my a lot of cash by being able to use your expertise to D Y I then he again
White vinegar is already deluded in the bottle. I think for vinegar to work it has to be pure (the industrial one for cleaning) and in motion for ionisation. I backflushed my salt outboard with pure vinegar, like 3 bucks a gallon. Removed the lower unit and thermostat. Using a garden pump connected to the thermostat housing. The vinegar was foaming and bubbling. Looked inside motor afterwards and looked pretty clean.
I've found nothing to work better than Rydlyme Marine descaler. It's not cheap, but it works great.
Can attest to that. It works great, and has fixed my outboard which threw an overheat alarm (despite new impeller, thermostats, etc)
Toilet bowl cleaner i use. Take foot off bucket. Hose. Bilge pump
Water tube take stants out in stall covers pump it up thew water tube. Rember recycle in the bucket. 2 pints with water.
My MacGyver side said there must be a better way. So I went out and bought some lime-away at the dollar store. sprayed my parts with it and let it soak over night. Then brought out the big gun "my pressure washer" set it to "driveway" setting and blasted the parts till they looked like new. Took about 5 minutes total. Great video though, just thought there has to be an easier way.
These outboards is incredible robust, i used a Tohatsu 25 4 stroke for 10 years and only one impeller after 9 years and never off boat. But the lake i come into is brakish water after out in the fjord. No i have another smaller ten feet pioner with a new 9,8 Tohatsu. Break in is finsih in some days, there you see the thermostat varying the water pressure out of the engine because water no is cold, about 5 c here. but a wery strong indicator water out of it. I live with the water and use the boat to all stuff, sometimes i borrov a dog and valks islands, other i svim in sea out in the fjords in summer here in Norway and never have a stop. This 9,8 is a ok outboard, simple ok power and light. The design is also nice , this compact design on this 2021 model.
I saved a junk motor that was clogged up with a diluted acid mix with the motor running in a garbage can for about 45 minutes. The can had a bunch of crude on the bottom afterwards and the motor ran great until a crank bearing failed a few years later. I was surprised to see how clean the block looked during the rebuild process and I didn't see any signs of damage from the acid mix. I know it sounds pretty crazy, but it worked great.
Hey Jamie, great to hear the acid worked for you. I think it is the way I would go to. I don't see you have much to lose if the motor is that corroded up anyway. Any idea what ratio your mix was in the garbage can?
I can't remember to be honest? Maybe 1 quart or more to a full garbage can full of water. It started to irritate my eyes and skin because I was constantly pushing a piece of mono leader into the pisser because of the crud breaking lose. I practically got the motor for free and I had nothing to lose. It was well worth my efforts in the end. Some of the old Yamaha 2 strokes are highly sought after here in the USA because of our EPA.
I had a lot of fun restoring this junker s1262.photobucket.com/user/blindshot75/library/Yamaha%2030hp?sort=2&page=1
Cool, I'm glad it worked for you. I would certainly be willing to give it a try in a similar situation. As you say, you have nothing to lose with some old motors. From the photos I can see you did a lot of work on it. :)
We’ve been using salt away for years. Since the motor was very new. In my case, I think one would see a clear difference.
Yes, regular flushing definitely makes a difference over time.
after soaking or flushing in acid remember to neutralise with bi-carb soda to avoid residual acidity
Good tip!
Main takeaway from this vid, and perfectly in line with my opinion is a decent product used with discipline from the beginning is where the magic is. Prevention is the whole trick.
A flush product won't fix neglect.
how you gonna prevent something thats allready done, after buying a secondhands engine
@@mother-fng-bonswa3612 I made no mention of preventing someone else's neglect. My statement is advice for an original owner.
Another strong video. thanks. Has anyone considered the descaling products formulated for tankless boilers and hot water heaters? Often the heat exchangers are stainless, but often also they are aluminum
That's a good suggestion, well worth looking into.
Hydrochloric is something to keep away from stainless steel, organic acids like sulphamic are much safer for common metals.
Perhaps the vinegar should have been used neat
Interesting video. I've got an old 1970 Mercury 1150 that needs a bit of TLC, so I've found your videos pretty helpful. Have you thought about using a combination of solution with a ultrasonic agitator? I'd think that would work quite a bit to get most of the crud out of those passages, then follow up with the brush.
Something like that would certainly help. I would like to at least get one for carburettors one day.
I have tried vinegar it is slow but safe and efficient
I know this is a late comment on a 5 year old video but I will share my experience using HCl.
Motor/History: Mercury 2001 EFI 150 HP V6 - Tortured with Hawkesbury river mud and salt - freshwater flushed after every use
Fault: After 20 years - Overheating on idle despite a healthy urination stream and changing EVERYTHING in the cooling system
Remedy:
Remove the lower unit + thermostats from the housing and replace the housing and rapaciously jam a plastic tube up the orifice where the copper water normally fits into the power head from the water pump.
Connect a 12 volt pump to that tube to pump diluted acid through the engine collecting the discharge in tub with the immersion pump in it to cycle it through the engine
I started with a ratio of 20 : 1 but the flush remained clear meaning it was doing nothing - need more acid!
Set up a control using aluminium, brass, steel and stainless in a beaker with the acid solution.
I kept adding acid until I could just begin to see some incipient bubbling action on any of the metals -That became my water/acid ratio. I have no idea what it was but it was significantly lower than 20 : 1 - probably more like 10 : 1 or lower.
Ran it for around 2 hours until I could see the Hawkesbury river in the tub and loads of sediment on the bottom.
Then a vigorous freshwater flush and reassembly.
Prognosis: It been running without issue for at least 2 years since I did the acid flush.
Interestingly, I had installed two temperature gauges (one for each head) and a water pressure gauge along with other indicators for everything that will trigger the engine warning buzzer. There's nothing more distressing than a warning buzzer where you have NO CLUE what is causing it. Like before the gauges I once had a thermostat fail, triggering the buzzer. Had I known what it was, I could have removed that thermostat and continued on my merry way not catching any fish as usual.
Anyway, the gauge still creeps up more so on the starboard head at idle without reaching the trigger point, so at some juncture, it needs more acid or the heads need to come off for a thorough water jacket cleanout.
Straight Vinegar somewhat better overnight....Ive used it on aluminum motorcycle heads
Interesting, this shows how to remove corrosion products. Would like to see a test that shows what works to remove salt.
Great video Stu . What about a product that use for cleanning the tiles and glasses in the showers .? viakal for exmp.
Not sure how that would go, but there are plenty of choices that's for sure!
That wss 2 litres vinegar, ao 1 to 5. Love the vids!.
Ah, right you are, I don't know why I thought it was a one litre bottle.
@@DangarMarine what was the concentration of the vinegar? I used 30% to fill a deep container to dip the outdrive intake into, and ran it until it became warm (recycling the same liquid) there was at least 2 cm of calcimum deposits in the bottom of the container in the end.
I have an older outboard. No flush port and it’s in the water. Thinking of tilting the engine a bit and flush with the muffs under water. Just a thought. Any ideas???
Acid is used by many truck wash to clean tractor trailers..there is alot of aluminum parts.. Acid is sprayed over entire truck.. Let sit for a few minutes then rinced off with soap and water.. Trucks with 100's of washes do not show any negative affects on aluminum.. Or rubber parts.
We use the same 'acid' at work for washing trains. It is citric acid at very low concentration, I dont know the exact level, but it is so low that it does not burn the skin nor sting the eyes from the spray .I wonder if dilute molasses would work like it does on steel/rust? I used molasses to de-rust the interior surfaces of boxed in car par parts over the years - mainly the fan housings of type 1 beetles and chassis and sills of an XW falcon. I tried the same trick on an Alfa, and finished up with the only useable parts of the car after the rust was gone - the wheels - they looked good on the trailer! :-) The molasses I diluted 10:1 and for the fan shrouds and XW chassis the time was 4 weeks fully submerged. The steel ended with a totally clean surface you have to dry and paint immediately or you will have surface rust within an hour (gold all over look)
Try that with CLR
Hey stu, saltaway active ingredient is sulfamic acid- or vinegar.
Dishwashing liquid has heaps of salt in it, so not great.
Hydro in a bottle is probably at 10% aqueous solution before you dilute, so pretty safe on all the rubber I've used it on inc O rings.
If you want to use on flushing attachments just pour a little into garden hose ( backfill) plug into motor port, turn on tap for 30 seconds, then let soak before turning on tap again.
A fishhook in sea water Vs salt away for a week is interesting however.
Cheers lads
Ah, interesting about the active ingredients of Salt Away, and a good point about the concentration of hydrochloric acid in the bottle, I was going to mention what that bottle was but I forgot to film it. Also, I notice this line from the Wikipedia article on sulfamic acid "It is frequently used for removing rust and limescale, replacing the more volatile and irritating hydrochloric acid, which is however cheaper."
Thanks mate, read that a while ago, must have got it mixed up.
Very expensive stuff the salt away, I'd like to see a lifetime user tear down a cooling system and show the results.
Hi Stu, i own Mercury 6 hp 4 stroke, 2008 outboard and the other day after trolling for a while I stopped to take a break, started the outboard and noticed that there is no exhaust fumes going through the propeller and no bubbles around it at all and the outboard became a lot louder. There is a water coming from cooling water check port. Have you ever had a problem like this?
Thank you.
Please try dishwasher detergent work well for us here in Kaikoura New Zealand
Will give it a go next time.
There is also a product called Barnacle Buster. Essentially it's 85% Phosphoric Acid. According to the website it's acceptable for use on Marine Aluminum similar to the parts you put in the tanks. A quick youtube search will show plenty of information. I'm going to try your experiment with a piece of scrap aluminum from a Suzuki that has been decommisioned. I will let you know how it works.
Good tip Sean. I will be interested to hear how you get on. It's always nice to have a few unwanted bits lying around that you can sacrifice in the name of science!
Awesome videos, they have worked for me a lot.
About flushing a 2stroke 200hp yamaha outboard with fresh water at the end of the day, my only option is with the earmuffs, have you heard anything about doing that flush while tilted? Thank you!
Flushing while tilted isn't really a problem.
I'd like to see what lime away would do
I saw video of using simple green. But he uses regularly after saltwater outings
CLR, calcium lime and rust remover might be worth a shot. You're right about the flush with every use with water, could add a detergent then finish it off with fresh water too, this should keep the guts of the motor pretty clean and reduce exposure time of salt and other crud. Prevention is better than cure, as usual, with great maintenance.
You're dead right about prevention being better than cure when it comes to flushing. Sounds like limescale remover contains the same acid put in Salt Away which was interesting to see.
NO ! THIS STUFF IS VERY TOXIC AND NOT SAFE WITH METALS.. USE 10% PHOSPHORIC ACID/ WATER SOLUTION ( THATS WHAT BARANACLE BUSTER IS). READ THE MSDS SHEET ON THIS STUFF.!!
Hey! Ive got an 1960 swallow 3hp outboard, and im trying to figure out if it has a water pump, as some older lower hp engines do have those. I dont see cutouts in the tail and no holes near the prop, but where the exhaust comes out there is a big hole...
Can't say I'm familiar with that outboard, sorry.
hi, can you give me advice what is the best way to clean salt in carburetor on outboard yamaha bf40 that is been in the sea but it stays on dry for a long time..this outboard has litarelly about 10hrs of working in lifetime.. i buy this for parts and i want to save some of them..thanks in advance!
Thank you for the video, do you have any videos about fuel tanks for outboards, having a vent problem on a mid size mercury outboard where the primer bulb flattens out like a pancake at high throttle. I have a 1/4" fuel line for a 90 hp. Is that too small?
Jon Karle 1/4 is small for a 90. I have a 50 merc and use a 3/8. 1/4 line is usually used on really small outboards like 15 hp and below. Im sure I could use 5/16 and be ok. But I would change that 1/4 line asap. And you're problem with the primer bulb staying flat is probably the fuel pump. But it could also be the primer bulb or you're fuel tank pick up line is clogged or broken. Check Dangar Marines videos on primer bulbs and fuel pumps. Great vids to watch! Hope this helps bud
Jimbo's on the money. :)
a wise old man once told me if ya wanna get stuff off of something use the same stuff to soften it up first and then wash with the most abundant solvent around -water. yeah really if its bad enough to give ya a problem might as well get a gasket set and tear it apart to manually clean it .
It is a good point about using the same stuff. An example of this is engine flushes to get rid of old oil deposits before doing an oil change. It is essentially a thin hydrocarbon (like diesel).
Salt-Away "MAY" suds up to make you think it's working real good!
I have used white vinegar successfully with aluminium motorcycle tanks (eg BMWK100) that have been neglected and the fuel has gone "off". But this is straight vinegar and 2-3 days soak then a soft (green) scourer. It softens and loosens - but still needs a far bit of scrubbing. Haven't seen any evidence of damage.
You are the walter white of outboard parts
I'm kicking myself now for not working a Breaking Bad reference in there somewhere. I love that show!
Dangar Marine Best show of all time!
Try lime away also baking soda stops salt
Baking soda also stops the acid once done
Salt is a acid
In brackish water environment here ... the local shop recommended taking the thermostat out of the honda four stroke then pour toilet bowl cleaner down. Sorry white bottle with bent spout. Neighbor tickled at the crud that came out the bottom!
Ha! Interesting to hear. I've got so many interesting suggestions since this video, I'll have to try them all. :)
Great video comparison as this is aged question for trailer boat owners. Like many I to use saltaway but can't help but feel a bit ripped off by the high asking price
The best & least troublesome 'cure' for trailer rust was the guy who puts a rotary sprinkler under the axles and lets the 'lawn' get washed for - I don't remember 1/2 hour, 1 hour or ? No pain & supposedly works
i wonder how lemon juice would do, eg phosforic acid,, i know it kills rust
Hey Dangar, im getting some salt build-up on my two-stroke yamaha, under the coil; in the lower back corner - where the sparks are. Is it normal? Also, is it advisable to give the power head a gentle rinse with some fresh water/use a toothbrush to clean the salt? Cheers!
It shouldn't get too much salt there, if it does you have a small leak from the cooling system. Cleaning with flesh water is fine. I often even pressure wash outboard engines.
Hello Dangar, can i sandblast theise parts even tho they are aluminium? Thanks :)
Hi Stu, again a nice video!
Did you use vinegar or vinegar acid? For cleaning pentas they recommend 8-10% vinegar acid. Other topic: a guy told me that flushing the outboard with fresh water after boating only makes real sense if you put out the thermostate (reasamble the housing of course) because if you don't the fresh water would force it to close very fast and so the water won't reach the head while flushing. Any thoughts on this appreciated.
I used just food grade vinegar, so it would be interesting to try a concentrated vinegar acid (which is apparently in Salt Away). I would have thought that the thermostat would have opened as normal once the motor is warmed up. The problem with removing it is that you may need to put a new gasket in each time to stop it leaking.
The gasket replacement is definitely the point.
one way to test the weakening of the aluminum is to put some old spark plugs or a proper bolt in the plug holes and using a torque wrench, find out how much torque it takes to strip the threads out. compare to the other flushed heads as well
Ah, that would have been a good experiment. After everybody's suggestions I think I'm going to have to do a part 2 one day now!
Dangar, great videos! By any chance do you have a diagram of how the cooling passages flow in these bigger yamaha motors? Have a 250hp ox66 that overheats at idle. Have changed water pump (housing as well), poppet valve (PRV), replaced thermostats, opened heads and cleaned everything/changed gaskets. Running out of ideas! Thanks
Unfortunately not for the larger engines. It could be a faulty sensor so check with an infrared thermometer that it is actually overheating. Could also be a blown head gasket pushing the cooling water out of the water jackets.
Dangar Marine thanks for the reply! Temp is about 170F (77C) on starboard side top cylinder so I think it is overheating. The other side runs much cooler. I replaced head gaskets already and cleaned out visible corrosion. I did notice water wasn’t getting to thermostat housing.
Hi have same issue with my ox66 at idle after 5 mins on idle on the muff only… what did you end up having to address to fix the overheating? Regards nick
"You're miles ahead of the game if you can do a fresh water flush every day."
Excellent point, but "how is it done easily?"
Immediate access to a fresh water hose being the obvious first requirement, access to a flush point is often overlooked.
Yamaha's solution is elegantly simple and stunningly effective.
A 9.9 I inspected has a fresh water hose injection tapped into a "y" in the tell tale (pisser) line at the carburetor outlet.
What I like about this design is that it gives your engine a BACK FLUSH, dislodging anything that might have clogged the system, and they have a standard hose connection that you can immediately locate and screw on without fiddling for (where did I put those damn ears) the connection that always seems to get misplaced when the kids use the boat.
HERE'S MY REQUEST:
Do a series of videos on how to add a similar connection to every different style of engine on the market.
It's a big request but it's something that every boat owner can appreciate.
Yamaha's design also has another benefit.
You don't need much pressure to get it to work.
On the other hand, "ears" that attach to the lower unit always seem to leak profusely and that means you need more volume or pressure from your fresh water connection (something that isn't always available). Yamaha's design is fool proof. Almost any amount of water pressure will be sufficient to flush your system.
What do you say? Are you up for the challenge? (How about starting with an Evinrude intruder 150 (Hint... hint... hint...).
FOR EXAMPLE: (I was thinking- If I could only unscrew the tell-tale [right at the cowling] and screw a pipe fitting in it's place. Would that work?)
Caustic Soda is a very nice salt crust softener and remover, must soak parts for at least one hour in 10:1 proportion with water. Brush off as needed. Use proper safe eyewear and gloves...
If anyone is looking to use the correct acid, grab some phosphoric acid which is 85% purity. Its cheap and can be found in other premix products from Bunnings or somewhere similar. Its also fantastic for cleaning fibreglass boats.
It would be handy to have local lake to dip the trailer in after boating at sea. 🤔
A bit of freshwater never hurt a boat.
Hydrochloric aicd will react with aluminium.
BUT! will not react with the aluminium oxide layer that is formed during the reaction. So it will only react with the very top layer only few microns deep
Yes, I've heard the oxide layer is very hard. Good to know it will protect the aluminium during cleaning.
Hi Danger Marine
I have a problem with my yamaha 80hp model F80BET - 6D7-L-1007430 vintage 2007.
there is water in the engine oil :-(. I have tried changing the thermostat but it did not help.
what might be the cause of this problem
greeting Jens
vinigar needs min 24hrs of work, it is my goto product for anything that needs a clean, though i do like the acid, but its not very healthy for our waterways.
And you need to use vinegar undiluted to work well. It is my go to product when working on fishing reels.
Here's a method of flushing an outboard motor that some may find helpful.
Get a gallon of 85% phosphoric acid solution from Amazon; use a
submersible pump, a cheap short-length garden hose and a 5 gallon
bucket. 2 quarts acid solution with with 12 quarts of water produces a 7.24 : 1 ratio of water : phosphoric acid. (Maybe better: 1quart acid solution with 6 quarts water will cut total volume from 14 to 7 quarts---less messy)
Take off lower unit and thermostat(s). Connect female end of cut hose to pump in acid solution in bucket, hose-clamp cut end onto water tube of motor. Connect male end of cut hose to motor's flush inlet; cut end returns solution to bucket.
Run pump for 2 hours (Do not start motor).
After treatment replace thermostat(s) and test running motor with water hose and muff. Should show strong flow from tell-tail.
Hey Stu, have you done a video about removing a stuck cylinder head? I've got a 3 cylinder 1987 Johnson 70 in and the head wont budge. I have removed all 14 bolts (2 snapped off -doooh!) but I can't persuade it to seperate from the block. Don't want to get too medieval with it but can't figure out a way to make it shift.
Hi David. Are the shanks of the broken bolts still in there? That is probably what is causing it to be stuck if so. I would start by looking for any protrusions that allow you to use a punch to tap it off. Worst case scenario would be separating the crank case so you can push it out from behind. If you are game (and careful) you could also try putting spark plugs in to block the holes, leave the leads off and then crank it to see if the compression pushes it off.
Thanks Stu, that's worth a try. I have been soaking the broken studs in penetrating fluid for a couple of days but it's still stuck. I have center drilled the remains of the studs and am waiting for some decent cobalt drills to arrive. Looks like I will have to drill the studs out and retap the holes. Thanks millions for the response, I know you must be a busy bloke. :-)
How can I tell if my outboard is running hot if I have no temperature gauge?
I wonder how Bi-Carb soda or lemon juice would go on those parts too?
Another good suggestion, there certainly are plenty of things to try!