How To Double Dye or Multi Dye Stabilize Wood (How To Make Stabwood)
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- Опубликовано: 10 фев 2019
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That red grape vine looked exactly like a little red dragon.
Oh wow love it!!! My favorite RUclipsr of ALL TIME!!!
Great colors man! Keep up the good work!
Looks like something that would be a lot of fun to do. Hope to get enough space at some point to experiment with stuff like this.
Hi Casey, This is the video I have been waiting for as I don't have a vacuum chamber at the moment but in my mind, maybe not my wife's, has just justified the cost of buying one so I can take my pen making to the next level. Cheers, Huw
Haha love to hear it Huw! Cheers to you as well!
Great video by the way always enjoy your stuff thanks for sharing
Awesome video Casey! Beautiful work man, and thanks for the shout out! I haven't tried using vac without submerging yet, need to test that out =D
Thanks Zac! I highly recommend it depending what you’re going for. If you’re going for distant color separation it works pretty well, but if you want random colors throughout the non vac soaking is perfect for that. Sometimes if the wood is super punky the non vac soaking makes it super distinct anyway
Good info, thanks! I’m going to try It! 🐻
Have fun!
Interesting technology!
Casey thank you for the video im a newb to stabilizing i was given two slabs of maple burl for knife handle material ive had some decent results so far . I really want to learn how to get muliple colors in my scales and blocks your video helped alot thanks again Mark any other videos you recommend for me to check out ?
If I understood well:
Step 1: Soak
Step 2: Soak under vacuum
Step 3: Dry in the oven and sand
Step 4: Soak completly under vacuum
Step 5: Dry in the oven
Some questions:
1) When soaking under vacuum, when there's no bubbles left, you stop the pump and let soak. But do you open the valve to let the air goes in the chamber?
2) When you double dyed, do you finish with a process of soaking in clear cactus juice?
Thanks and nice video!
Nice video. May I use water in the vaccum chamber to simply dye the wood with some color, or does it just work with resin? If I can do it, should I dry the wood before coloring it? Thanks for sharing
I apologize if I missed the answer to this question. When soaking for the first round of dye, do you get deeper penetration when allowing to soak first before placing in the vacuum chamber or do you get about the same result if you just go straight to the chamber on that first round? Just trying to wrap my mind around it. If you were just stabilizing with no dye, you just go straight to the chamber. Thank you so much for all of the info you share. Love your work!
Casey. Do you have a video using the eye dropper with finished results?
As usual,another great video Casey! I have most of my equipment on the way to get started! Here's a question though, for just getting started,should I start with a gallon or a half gallon of cactus juice? I believe,from the research I've done,the shelf life,isn't very long,on cactus juice correct? And since I'm just starting I dont know if I want to put $90 in a gallon if I end up not utilizing all of it before its shelf life is expired. What sayeth the professor to student? Thx for any help you might have! Always enjoy your videos!
I’d say a gallon. But it’s up to you. Shelf life is awesome. I’ve never had a problem. I always have a few gallons sitting in my chambers because I always stabilize so much wood at once. Granted they get swapped out with new CJ every month or two, but never had a problem. I’m sure the shelf life is 6 months to a year and the info is on turntex
Another great video, Do you thoroughly dry the wood first before you start the dying process?
Yes that needs to be done before any type of stabilizing
Hi my friend. Sorry about my english. When you do two colors, you always cure after first color and do the second color and cure again??? Thanks a lot.
That one piece looks like a duck....lol...burl double dyed is so cool...
Thanks for your video. I wonder if first warming the pieces in the oven first would be a good step and then application of the dye/resin mix? Would this help open the wood up and generate more absorption into the wood?
Yes this is considered a necessary step even when not dyeing
love your videos.. no one talks about the wood drying in the process. in normal stabilizing everything needs to be absolutely dry.. obviously this is hanging out on normal air during all these soakings.. is dry wood not as important ?
Well I should’ve clarified that it should be dry. But it’ll definitely be dry by the time you do the second soak since it’ll cure on the first one, which is by far the most important. It’s most important to have it completely dry for whenever you actually put it under vacuum. Having it dry will probably help capillary action but not sure how kuch
Very informative man! Did I miss the announcement of the pearl powder winners?
No you didn’t! The giveaway goes for about 11 more days. It was a month long. When it’s over I’ll release a short video with the winners.
Casey Martin Nice, thanks Brother!’
A few of questions: how far does the capillary action typically draw the solution up into the wood? Do you ever flip the piece of wood around to get the same color on the other end? And have you ever used too much dye in your cactus juice?
Depends on the wood but usually pretty far, just not that penetrating. Drier and softer the wood like buckeye really soaks it up. And yes I have a couple times, it’s really whatever you wanna do. And no I don’t believe so
Great video! As seeing I have a 5 gallon pressure pot like yours, I would like to make it double duty as a stabilizer. Do you know where I could get a 3/4 piece of lexan to fit the top? I know you’ll probably say the internet, which is where I have looked, but trying to find something of that size seems impossible. Or maybe I could just order a top from a vacuum chamber supplier. Your thoughts would greatly be appreciated. Thanks.
I would look for a glass top and a rubber gasket you could put on the rim of your pot. Even with 3/4” it might get micro cracks that so many people end up getting with acrylic lids. If you look at the Yescom chamber in my tools to use, and can order a gasket and lid like that from somewhere, I’d do that. Honestly probably will cost about the same as the chamber, as the chamber is really just a big metal pot. If it does cost similarly, I’d just get the whole chamber so you don’t have to dirty up your pressure pot every time you want to stabilize and then clean it every time you want to cast.
Hope that helps!
Thanks for the advice.
Casey, on the red drift wood piece, did you pull a vacuum on it in the red dye, or did you just let capillary action turn it red? And did you bake it before you sanded it?
No vacuum, it just fell in and it was all capillary action if I remember correctly. I did bake it before sanding
What grit do you typically sand it back with? Also, when letting capillary action to happen, do you stop it to a point you want? or just let it soak till it stops. From my limited experience, it often can turn the whole blank that color. Granted probably using too much dye in that case.
Unless the wood was extremely soft and punky, I don’t think a wood could become completely penetrated by capillary action unless completely submerged. I’ve never seen it but maybe. I usually let it sit for however I want. Less time less capillary, more time more so. Hope that helps!
Also I think the grit on my belt sander is 150, but it probably doesn’t really matter as long as you break through
Can you add mica powder to cactus juice for a bit of sparkle?
Nope. The mica powder wont be absorbed by the wood.
What are the minimum specs you would use, or recommend, on a vacuum pump to do wood stabilization with?
In the video description I have a tools I use page that has the vacuum pump I have on it. I believe mine is only 3 CFM, and you don’t need more than that. You could probably even use a 2 CFM if they make it. The stronger vacuum just makes it reach full vacuum faster but that doesn’t really matter for stabilizing.
@@CaseyMartin707 thank you
Question, do you sand between colors prior to heat curing it? Or after?
Sand between colors prior to stabilizing the next color
Something a little off topic bought a harbor freight presure pot. Does the presure gage at 1 mean 10 pounds
Most likely Gary. I always replace mine right away because they usually don’t work. I wouldn’t trust one to be honest. Worth the $5-10 or so to know what you’re actually pressurizing it to
Thanks
Do you bake after every color or only after all colors are added?
After every color! Only time I think you could get away with not doing it is if you were doing a large piece, soaked one end, and flipped it to the other. The main importance is on smaller ones where you want to make sure you’re not sealed off anywhere
What type of dye do you use? That part of info blew over my head.
I use Alumilite dye or cactus juice stabilizing dye. The CJ dye can only be used for CJ where Alumilite can also obviously be used for Alumilite resin. Purple is really the only color I use from Alumilite that CJ doesn’t have. I’ve used red, blue, and green in the past too but the CJ versions are much more vibrant
How many drops of red or blue to 8oz of cactus juice do you use?
There’s no scientific method to it. Just add a ton of dye! I think Curtis on his site says roughly 1 oz of dye per gallon is a good starting point and not to exceed 4 oz per gallon
Where is your link for the vacuum chamber?
On the tools I use page of my website! The link is in the video description
What kind of paint is good for wood painting?
Almost any paint is designed for wood!
Do you prefer using powered dye's or liquid dye's? I have found that I can duplicate a color using powered by weight. Drops from a bottle are not as exact. They depend on the pressure of your squeeze and the thickness of the bottle.
I’ve never tried a powdered dye for stabilizing actually. I find the official liquid cactus juice dyes work the best. I’ve used Alumilite dyes a lot but they take a lot more so it’s not as cost efficient. I’ve heard one of the best ways to get a black dye to penetrate is to use a powdered though. Just haven’t tried it yet
@@CaseyMartin707 Thanks Brother
@@CaseyMartin707 I guess my hands are to weak to squeeze those bottles. At my age I shouldn't be surprised
I think it would look incredible if you burnt wood electrically and then filled in the fractal pattern with resin in a hybrid blank. Please do that.
If I got one of those machines for free I would!
Casey Martin Ive seen DIY setups but I think if you keep this up I'll see it eventually. Another idea....is stabilized charcoal a thing? Charred wood grain would look cool.
If so, both of those ideas I have personally been wanting to do. Which I have not had a chance to, but will in the next week or so.
Have you tried guitar tops or bodies?
I have not myself yet
Can I dry In a vaccum oven
Yes don’t see why not but you probably wouldn’t want to. It may pull some of that penetrated cactus juice back out
Maybe you should do a video beginnig with a new piece of Wood and the go through all the steps till the end instead of just explaining it and showing stuff that is already finished
I do that in this video do I not? I do start with a piece of wood that is dyed and walk through all the steps. Did you watch the whole video?
I also have a new video on how to stabilize pen blanks with just clear cactus juice, and I walk through the whole process on that one too.
I enjoy your videos and usually pick up a tip or two from them. However I see you have purchased a vacuum chamber that has a tempered glass top with a hole drilled through the glass. I cringe every time I watch this ticking time bomb being placed under vacuum. As you know these glass lids are subjected to thousands of pounds of negative pressure over the cross sectional area of the glass. The stresses are, for the most part, evenly distributed across the lid. When there is a hole drilled through the glass lid these stresses are now localized as a major stress riser. Each time the lid is cycled under pressure, microscopic weak points develop. It’s only a matter of time before a catastrophic failure will occur, with possible injury to the user. There are several good articles written on this and I encourage you to look at them.