All friction needs a "normal force," which means a perpendicular force applied to a surface. Thus, you need to press your palms into the hold and not along it like you would for a jug. It helps to engage your chest and create an arch between both hands and apply all of your body weight on the top of this arch; That would provide the maximum friction on your hands, which means it will hold. I also like the advice of grabbing the hold with your fingers; This will add pressure and thus more friction. Lastly, similar to how it's best to keep weight over feet, keep your weight over your arms by having your hands below your elbows. For the V8 you asked help on, make sure to keep your hips to the wall, even if it means facing your back towards it!
Man this all sounds super legit and helpful! Thank you! I screen-grabbed this comment and will be sure to revisit it when I find myself struggling in a dihedral 😎
Officially the only climbing channel I watch, 😎👍🏻. Btw, have you considered spending some time in japan? Going to the climbing gyms there automatically levels you up.
Ayyy nice to hear! Oh yeahh Maddie is doing the Seoul WC later this year and we’ll probably spend a week or two at bpump to get on the time zone! Will be my 5th visit 😎
I think most of the people that watch you would agree that u should make a vid about how to make a training for yourself as I would love to watch that as an up and coming comp climber
Hello Mr. Richard. I would like to raise a concern about you repeating the same thing over and over. Try to keep your speeches more concise in the future. We get it, less volume means you are more fresh. You don't need to repeat it 20 times. Anyways, love the content, keep it up :)
Heard! However I do try to repeat things for the viewers whose first language is not English, so that the voiceovers are easier to digest for everyone!
Heyo, What advice do you have for the climbing program of beginning (v4/v5) boulderers. My week currently consists of bouldering 3 times (F.E. Monday, Wednesday, Friday) . with each session being warming up, about 1,5/2 hours of bouldering and some stretching. What should I look at to improve/alter this. I was thinking of maybe making the session on Friday a lighter boulder session following by something like a weight training routine on Friday. But I'd be interested on your views on this. I have however noticed that my fingerskin hasn't been optimal so the rest days are necesaries to keep it more healthy.
Sounds great already! Keep at it and don't hesitate to try out harder boulders. Even if you keep falling on the first moves, it will help you understand what you're missing to get to the next level. So jump on those v7-8 about once a week and try hard! 💪💪
yeah that sounds pretty solid already as others have mentioned. I climb tues, thurs, sat and try to mix it up with bouldering in the week and sport climbing on saturday. Bouldering three times a week gets a little tough on the body for me and can cause tendonitis. But as far as breaking through the v4/v5 plateau, the best thing that helped me was kilterboard. It's a rough learning curve and the first couple weeks suck haha. But once you get used to it and start learning the holds and developing contact strength, it becomes super fun and valuable. Just gotta balance it with recovery to avoid injury. And I did the emil hangboard program while kiltering as well which definitely seemed to help.
@@richardsonsclimbing Yeah would be interesting to understand what goes into that - I kind of assume this is especially depending on who the program is created for. I mean we only see your end result and what you try to achieve with a specific program.
1000%. It makes my training schedule so much more convenient especially since I do double sessions. It means I don’t have to get in the car and drive 20 minutes to do 20 minutes of hangboarding all the time. It definitely isn’t for everyone though especially if you usually do hangboard right before/after climbing there’s not need to have a setup at home!
They are holding up well! I will do an updated review on them soon! Long story short is that I’m using the TNs right now for the most part bc I find the smearing capabilities much better!
i do excell in those but im only 6c climber XD so not really aplicable haha (im pretty strong (not as strong as you though) for my grade aspecially pushing, squizing and flexible in all joints so also shoulders i think i can just twitch my shoulders far in to the wall) im in a peak in the middle of my training block. will taper down my training before switserland trip. hope to send atleast 6b outside. fingers crossed !
The dihedral boulder problem u have might just be a skin issue, but since I don't know that, here goes the tip: It works for any sort of pressing, but especialy behind the back. Trying to use your fingers and kinda "grabbing" the hold instead of just using the lower part of your palm. This will also make it so you are kinda pushing the holds appart instead of using your mid back to rip them off by pulling your elbows together. Hope this helps you climb even harder then I do 😂
For the dihedral boulders I find that sometimes it helps to use the wall more than you might, instead of being focused on the climbing holds (mainly with your feet ig). But I'm not quite at the 7B+ level so idk
All friction needs a "normal force," which means a perpendicular force applied to a surface. Thus, you need to press your palms into the hold and not along it like you would for a jug. It helps to engage your chest and create an arch between both hands and apply all of your body weight on the top of this arch; That would provide the maximum friction on your hands, which means it will hold.
I also like the advice of grabbing the hold with your fingers; This will add pressure and thus more friction. Lastly, similar to how it's best to keep weight over feet, keep your weight over your arms by having your hands below your elbows.
For the V8 you asked help on, make sure to keep your hips to the wall, even if it means facing your back towards it!
Fells like a physics major who also is a climber
Man this all sounds super legit and helpful! Thank you! I screen-grabbed this comment and will be sure to revisit it when I find myself struggling in a dihedral 😎
Yooo I just did the palms down trick on some balancy slab and it’s crazy how much it helped
Ikr it’s crazy!!!
Officially the only climbing channel I watch, 😎👍🏻.
Btw, have you considered spending some time in japan? Going to the climbing gyms there automatically levels you up.
totally agree. would loveeee to see Zach at B Pump Ogikubo
Ayyy nice to hear!
Oh yeahh Maddie is doing the Seoul WC later this year and we’ll probably spend a week or two at bpump to get on the time zone! Will be my 5th visit 😎
I think most of the people that watch you would agree that u should make a vid about how to make a training for yourself as I would love to watch that as an up and coming comp climber
Yes! Great idea I will add it to the list!
Hello Mr. Richard. I would like to raise a concern about you repeating the same thing over and over. Try to keep your speeches more concise in the future. We get it, less volume means you are more fresh. You don't need to repeat it 20 times. Anyways, love the content, keep it up :)
Heard! However I do try to repeat things for the viewers whose first language is not English, so that the voiceovers are easier to digest for everyone!
Heyo,
What advice do you have for the climbing program of beginning (v4/v5) boulderers.
My week currently consists of bouldering 3 times (F.E. Monday, Wednesday, Friday) . with each session being warming up, about 1,5/2 hours of bouldering and some stretching. What should I look at to improve/alter this. I was thinking of maybe making the session on Friday a lighter boulder session following by something like a weight training routine on Friday. But I'd be interested on your views on this.
I have however noticed that my fingerskin hasn't been optimal so the rest days are necesaries to keep it more healthy.
How long have you been climbing for?
Sounds great already! Keep at it and don't hesitate to try out harder boulders. Even if you keep falling on the first moves, it will help you understand what you're missing to get to the next level. So jump on those v7-8 about once a week and try hard! 💪💪
@@Arthur-ru5mm getting close to a year of steady bouldering now, but I already have another year of climbing experience pre covid
@@NourDjemhi totally agree. feeling what the next level requires on those harder moves always seems to help with breaking through plateaus
yeah that sounds pretty solid already as others have mentioned. I climb tues, thurs, sat and try to mix it up with bouldering in the week and sport climbing on saturday. Bouldering three times a week gets a little tough on the body for me and can cause tendonitis. But as far as breaking through the v4/v5 plateau, the best thing that helped me was kilterboard. It's a rough learning curve and the first couple weeks suck haha. But once you get used to it and start learning the holds and developing contact strength, it becomes super fun and valuable. Just gotta balance it with recovery to avoid injury. And I did the emil hangboard program while kiltering as well which definitely seemed to help.
Have you done an episode on how to create a short time peaking training program?
I guess I haven’t dedicated a segment to really explaining it! I can do one in an upcoming episode if that would be interesting!
@@richardsonsclimbing Yeah would be interesting to understand what goes into that - I kind of assume this is especially depending on who the program is created for. I mean we only see your end result and what you try to achieve with a specific program.
The Rose Bloc Girlies!!! and Zach.
Love Zach in ad mode 😂😂😂
😆
You should go to allez up Verdun at some point! The white tapes there are consistently brutal
Will do for sure!
How does your standing in the canadian rankings look after the vail competition?
The rankings haven’t been updated yet but it should move Matt into 3rd and me into 4th probably!
@@richardsonsclimbing That's awesome congrats!!
Yo Maddie made that green V10 look casual.
Yeah for real
Would you still buy this Clevo thing if you had to pay for it?
1000%. It makes my training schedule so much more convenient especially since I do double sessions. It means I don’t have to get in the car and drive 20 minutes to do 20 minutes of hangboarding all the time. It definitely isn’t for everyone though especially if you usually do hangboard right before/after climbing there’s not need to have a setup at home!
@@richardsonsclimbing Perfect! Thanks for answering ✋🏼
Is it just me or did the mic cut out for like 0.1s sometimes? Nice video as always👌
I haven't noticed anything like that so far
I think it was my headphones that had a problem. I can't hear any interruption without them
@@arrowblast6 ahh makes sense
Yeah it seems to be ok on my end hopefully it’s just the headphones haha
How are the qubits holding up now?
They are holding up well! I will do an updated review on them soon!
Long story short is that I’m using the TNs right now for the most part bc I find the smearing capabilities much better!
Good old TFCC taping
Did you receive a Clevo affiliate code for us to use?
Yes I just added the link to the description! We also inquired with Clevo about a discount code so keep an eye out for that soon (potentially)
How tall are you (zach and maddie )?
I’m about 5ft11 and maddie is about 5ft6/7!
Gotta love the exp Pokémon explanation
i do excell in those but im only 6c climber XD so not really aplicable haha (im pretty strong (not as strong as you though) for my grade aspecially pushing, squizing and flexible in all joints so also shoulders i think i can just twitch my shoulders far in to the wall)
im in a peak in the middle of my training block. will taper down my training before switserland trip. hope to send atleast 6b outside.
fingers crossed !
Oh nice!! And yes good luck with the taper 😁🙌
The dihedral boulder problem u have might just be a skin issue, but since I don't know that, here goes the tip:
It works for any sort of pressing, but especialy behind the back. Trying to use your fingers and kinda "grabbing" the hold instead of just using the lower part of your palm. This will also make it so you are kinda pushing the holds appart instead of using your mid back to rip them off by pulling your elbows together.
Hope this helps you climb even harder then I do 😂
Mmm yes this makes sense! Especially on this red boulder I should’ve tried to grab the golds and press at the same time! Noted!
Thanks for sharing the hang board! How did you reinforce the door frame?
We screwed the frame into the stud!
For the dihedral boulders I find that sometimes it helps to use the wall more than you might, instead of being focused on the climbing holds (mainly with your feet ig). But I'm not quite at the 7B+ level so idk
Yeah good point!