We in YT land love your content. Great ideas. A sized Stainless Steel bolt plus CT1 in the pipe ends would be a good upgrade. I agree re. pollution issues. A Russian T72 tank starting up and running for ten minutes is my entire life times worth of vehicle output !!!!! Keep 'em coming James. We ❤ 'em !!!!
Excellent video as always. Your method will 100% work. I must admit that I bought the delete kits, I had to do the air injection delete mod because after I fitted the high intake air filter and the full unrestricted exhaust, I was getting a lot of snap crackle and pop. The air injection delete solved most of that problem. I removed all the pipes when I fitted the evap delete kit but left the disconnected canister in place, it stops a lot of road sludge hitting the wiring and the back of the engine Take care and ride safe.
Thank you! I’m really pleased that my somewhat unprofessional efforts help others despite my only using an ipad on my videos. I’m not keen on the snap, crackle and pop either, tbh. That’s a good move re leaving the evap cartridge in place after doing the RR unit re-location, actually. The imminent Dynatek coil project might turn out be a bit more demanding but I’m hoping I can get the coils physically into the space that’s available. Hopefully so…. The idea of this proposed project is to 1. Replace the OEM coils and replace them with better quality coils, enable higher voltage at the plugs via silicone leads with carbon-fibre cores (less resistance than copper-cored), HT caps without redundant resistors and iridium plugs (which have built-in resistors anyway) and therefore a better (38,000 volt) spark at the plugs and better combustion with an increase in performance to some extent. It certainly worked on my XJR1300. If it doesn’t work out, then I will, of course, post honestly here on my little channel!
I had a 'zapp' of a 2CV coil once. As you say, nothing quite like it. Although the one I got of the old style mains fuse box in the house (where there were fuse wire holders rather than trip switches and the previous owner had left fuse wire sticking a short way out of either end... just where my thumb and finger went to pull the fuse thinking it had tripped, but it hadn't!) was also very spicy.
Ouch! I once foolishly thought that a bedside lamp wasn’t working due to dirty on the contacts in the bulb holder……so I put my finger in to clean them….its always a good idea to make sure that the appliance is switched off before doing something as daft as that! Big ouch!
Did the delete kit on mine, makes servicing much easier and less plumbing. I changed my HT leads to NGK single core wire and caps. Hadn't thought to do the coils 🤔
Yes, much easier without that big pipe in the way! On my XJR1300, I found that the Dynatek coils, silicone HT leads with carbon-fibre core, iridium plugs and also removing the resistor from the HT caps made a big difference to the bike. It might not be so apparent on the Interceptor but Dynatek coils are far better quality and give a lot more zap!
Thanks for this. I admit I don't fully understand the theory behind how all these fuel systems interact (i.e. knock on effects if any). Perhaps if you understand that it'd be useful to include a bit more context on that in future updates? My thought is that at least in my case, I'd love to remove this system but want to know what to look out for if I later wanted to put a shotgun style exhaust on. Things like that.
There aren’t any knock on effects, tbh. The entire air-injection system has been removed from the euro 5 models. It’s basically a compliance thing, I believe. Loads of people remove it (hence there bring a kit available to do so) without problems if any kind. My video just shows how to achieve the same result without having to pay for a kit…..
Irei desativar desse jeito , mas cortando o tubo de borracha e colocando um parafuso allen na medida do tubo e apertando com abracadeira nos dois pontos , na conexão dos cilindros e na válvula da caixa de ar , abraços de Brasil .
Yes, good idea. It will have to be a very large Allen bolt for that tube though! But yes, that will work… the air delete kit costs £32 here in the U.K., so this solution costs £0 !!
Looking forward to the coil change work, will be interesting. I’m assuming that currently Venhill don’t have an Interceptor throttle cable in the catalogue? After doing yours, they well add it. I have to admit, I haven’t taken the tank off mine yet 😱. With all the connections to undo, don’t want to risk breaking something just to have a look, but will do at some point.
I was wary too re the tank but…it’s easy! Undo the two bolts at the rear of the tank and prop it up with a bit of wood. Then it’s just two electrical block connectors, two breather pipes at the rear of the tank and then undoing the fuel line is so easy….just press hard on the square in the fast connector and it pulls straight off. Really easy! I’d been bothered for ages about removing the tank but it really is dead easy. Just be careful if there’s a lot of fuel in the tank as it can be heavy and make sure you have a nice soft, padded place to put the tank on…….(I used an old duvet cover)….. Yes, I bet they do add the cable to their catalogue. Because I’ve done the right side throttle/switchgear mod to FJ1200 switch, the push cable of the throttle would need to be modified in terms of the length of the inner cable. But, since I don’t ever intend to put a push cable back on the bike, I’m only getting the pull cable made up.
Great stuff. Yea , I know all about removing tanks that have lots of petrol in them! My CX weighs a ton & the little GPZ500, holds more than you would expect.☹️
@@internetpolification That's good to know as I'm looking to swap my tank out for a Continental GT 650 tank. Thanks for making me less concerned about the job!
I'm having trouble with abs and eml lighton at the moment, took my rear wheel off for a tyre change, I've replaced the wheel and these two lights have come on. I've noticed the sensor was damaged so i have replaced that but still coming on after deleting the codes via code reader. I have now order a abs toner wheel as I could see that was slightly bent, hopefully that will resolve the issue.
I had a similar issue with my Interceptor 650 (2019 model) last summer and it turned out to be the rectifier. Got it swapped out and it's been perfect ever since
No. Not so far. Plenty of other electrical issues seem to arise on a fair number of bikes though, principally the RR units and relays. Switchgear too recently
James, I would be interested if, as you said, you are able do the research and come up with a thingamy-bob /connector that plugs into the lead, facilitating the removal of the valve and at the same time tricking the ecu. I’m not keen on buying the kit @ £32 odd and sadly, electrickery is not my strong point! Cheers!
Ouch! Now that is something to be avoided and thank you for the heads-up! I can imagine the electrode and insulator dropping off and wrecking the pistons and cylinders! How were you able to identify them as fakes?
@@internetpolificationjust be sure you purchase them from a local auto parts store or reputable dealership. Folks buying iridium plugs online are the ones being affected with knock-offs or fakes. I run NGK Iridium plugs, and low resistance-high performance ignition wires, on my 2021 Continental GT 650 (Euro 4 - United States). I’m still using the stock coil with the plug and wire upgrades and no issues over the last month. Looking forward to your upgraded coil! May do the same if there’s any benefit.
There is many different parts from the box cardboard of inferior quality. The sealing ring falls off, the centre of the plug is not copper. Yes many companies have factories in china for assembly. But some Chinese and I mean Chinese are ripping off well known brands. Using inferior components just to make money. I have two sets of iridium plugs, both fake. They are also faking ND Iridium plugs.
@@maskedavenger2578 actually, NGK plugs are manufactured in the USA and Japan - but you’re correct about a lot of other automotive parts being outsourced from China.
We in YT land love your content. Great ideas.
A sized Stainless Steel bolt plus CT1 in the pipe ends would be a good upgrade.
I agree re. pollution issues. A Russian T72 tank starting up and running for ten minutes is my entire life times worth of vehicle output !!!!!
Keep 'em coming James. We ❤ 'em !!!!
Excellent video as always.
Your method will 100% work.
I must admit that I bought the delete kits, I had to do the air injection delete mod because after I fitted the high intake air filter and the full unrestricted exhaust, I was getting a lot of snap crackle and pop.
The air injection delete solved most of that problem.
I removed all the pipes when I fitted the evap delete kit but left the disconnected canister in place, it stops a lot of road sludge hitting the wiring and the back of the engine
Take care and ride safe.
Thank you! I’m really pleased that my somewhat unprofessional efforts help others despite my only using an ipad on my videos. I’m not keen on the snap, crackle and pop either, tbh. That’s a good move re leaving the evap cartridge in place after doing the RR unit re-location, actually. The imminent Dynatek coil project might turn out be a bit more demanding but I’m hoping I can get the coils physically into the space that’s available. Hopefully so…. The idea of this proposed project is to 1. Replace the OEM coils and replace them with better quality coils, enable higher voltage at the plugs via silicone leads with carbon-fibre cores (less resistance than copper-cored), HT caps without redundant resistors and iridium plugs (which have built-in resistors anyway) and therefore a better (38,000 volt) spark at the plugs and better combustion with an increase in performance to some extent. It certainly worked on my XJR1300. If it doesn’t work out, then I will, of course, post honestly here on my little channel!
I had a 'zapp' of a 2CV coil once. As you say, nothing quite like it. Although the one I got of the old style mains fuse box in the house (where there were fuse wire holders rather than trip switches and the previous owner had left fuse wire sticking a short way out of either end... just where my thumb and finger went to pull the fuse thinking it had tripped, but it hadn't!) was also very spicy.
Ouch! I once foolishly thought that a bedside lamp wasn’t working due to dirty on the contacts in the bulb holder……so I put my finger in to clean them….its always a good idea to make sure that the appliance is switched off before doing something as daft as that! Big ouch!
Did the delete kit on mine, makes servicing much easier and less plumbing. I changed my HT leads to NGK single core wire and caps. Hadn't thought to do the coils 🤔
Yes, much easier without that big pipe in the way! On my XJR1300, I found that the Dynatek coils, silicone HT leads with carbon-fibre core, iridium plugs and also removing the resistor from the HT caps made a big difference to the bike. It might not be so apparent on the Interceptor but Dynatek coils are far better quality and give a lot more zap!
@@internetpolification I shall wait for your review 🤣
@@chrisglynn5986 not even sure if they’ll physically fit……worth a try though!
Thanks for this. I admit I don't fully understand the theory behind how all these fuel systems interact (i.e. knock on effects if any). Perhaps if you understand that it'd be useful to include a bit more context on that in future updates?
My thought is that at least in my case, I'd love to remove this system but want to know what to look out for if I later wanted to put a shotgun style exhaust on. Things like that.
There aren’t any knock on effects, tbh. The entire air-injection system has been removed from the euro 5 models. It’s basically a compliance thing, I believe. Loads of people remove it (hence there bring a kit available to do so) without problems if any kind. My video just shows how to achieve the same result without having to pay for a kit…..
I would forget the plugs ever bike I put them in have missed stick to stock miles better and less cost
I must say though, they’re working fine on my bike and several other bikes in the past.
Irei desativar desse jeito , mas cortando o tubo de borracha e colocando um parafuso allen na medida do tubo e apertando com abracadeira nos dois pontos , na conexão dos cilindros e na válvula da caixa de ar , abraços de Brasil .
Yes, good idea. It will have to be a very large Allen bolt for that tube though! But yes, that will work… the air delete kit costs £32 here in the U.K., so this solution costs £0 !!
Wow, gostei dessa ideia, estava pensando em alguma outra alternativa para a cola e essa é bem interessante.
Looking forward to the coil change work, will be interesting. I’m assuming that currently Venhill don’t have an Interceptor throttle cable in the catalogue? After doing yours, they well add it.
I have to admit, I haven’t taken the tank off mine yet 😱. With all the connections to undo, don’t want to risk breaking something just to have a look, but will do at some point.
I was wary too re the tank but…it’s easy! Undo the two bolts at the rear of the tank and prop it up with a bit of wood. Then it’s just two electrical block connectors, two breather pipes at the rear of the tank and then undoing the fuel line is so easy….just press hard on the square in the fast connector and it pulls straight off. Really easy! I’d been bothered for ages about removing the tank but it really is dead easy. Just be careful if there’s a lot of fuel in the tank as it can be heavy and make sure you have a nice soft, padded place to put the tank on…….(I used an old duvet cover)…..
Yes, I bet they do add the cable to their catalogue. Because I’ve done the right side throttle/switchgear mod to FJ1200 switch, the push cable of the throttle would need to be modified in terms of the length of the inner cable. But, since I don’t ever intend to put a push cable back on the bike, I’m only getting the pull cable made up.
Great stuff. Yea , I know all about removing tanks that have lots of petrol in them! My CX weighs a ton & the little GPZ500, holds more than you would expect.☹️
@@martinowl like an idiot, I’d filled my tank the day before I decided to remove it!
Sounds familiar 😀
@@internetpolification That's good to know as I'm looking to swap my tank out for a Continental GT 650 tank. Thanks for making me less concerned about the job!
I'm having trouble with abs and eml lighton at the moment, took my rear wheel off for a tyre change, I've replaced the wheel and these two lights have come on. I've noticed the sensor was damaged so i have replaced that but still coming on after deleting the codes via code reader. I have now order a abs toner wheel as I could see that was slightly bent, hopefully that will resolve the issue.
Oh no! Those abs wheels are very fine metal and placing the wheel itself on he ground resting on the abs toner wheel can easily damage them!
I had a similar issue with my Interceptor 650 (2019 model) last summer and it turned out to be the rectifier. Got it swapped out and it's been perfect ever since
How long it lasts is debatable though, given the inappropriate oem location. 5 years or less isn’t acceptable for it, imho
Are you having problems with the oem coils etc, I've got the 650 and classic 350 and don't have any electrical problems..
No. Not so far. Plenty of other electrical issues seem to arise on a fair number of bikes though, principally the RR units and relays. Switchgear too recently
you know i have a lathe james..i could have made you some plugs
Dang…….forgot that!
James, I would be interested if, as you said, you are able do the research and come up with a thingamy-bob /connector that plugs into the lead, facilitating the removal of the valve and at the same time tricking the ecu. I’m not keen on buying the kit @ £32 odd and sadly, electrickery is not my strong point! Cheers!
I’m on it! I’ll be reporting back asap on it!
Please be careful with iridium plugs , i bought some and they are Chinese copy’s . They are lethal.
Ouch! Now that is something to be avoided and thank you for the heads-up! I can imagine the electrode and insulator dropping off and wrecking the pistons and cylinders!
How were you able to identify them as fakes?
@@internetpolificationjust be sure you purchase them from a local auto parts store or reputable dealership. Folks buying iridium plugs online are the ones being affected with knock-offs or fakes.
I run NGK Iridium plugs, and low resistance-high performance ignition wires, on my 2021 Continental GT 650 (Euro 4 - United States). I’m still using the stock coil with the plug and wire upgrades and no issues over the last month.
Looking forward to your upgraded coil! May do the same if there’s any benefit.
There is many different parts from the box cardboard of inferior quality. The sealing ring falls off, the centre of the plug is not copper. Yes many companies have factories in china for assembly. But some Chinese and I mean Chinese are ripping off well known brands. Using inferior components just to make money. I have two sets of iridium plugs, both fake. They are also faking ND Iridium plugs.
@@maskedavenger2578 actually, NGK plugs are manufactured in the USA and Japan - but you’re correct about a lot of other automotive parts being outsourced from China.
Yes…it does say “made in Japan” on the ones I bought….