Thanks Dave. After working as an internet service installer I have gotten more creative with my coax installs. For the outside I used a hinged door PVC box and can get a copper ground bar for mounting lightning protection. I use pvc conduit through the wall, as you explained, but once inside, I use a low voltage wall box, that has no back on them, and then I use a brush plate cover for the box. This allows cables to come through and provides a basic seal. The cool thing is when you go to sell your house, or change locations, you can simply replace the brush cover plate with a standard outlet “blank” plate and it looks normal for the next occupant. I normally try to install the pass-through at a height and location that looks typical after a cover is installed. Enjoy your videos. Dave in Oregon W7PDQ
Hi Dave, I used gray 2-inch PVC electrical conduit through my home sill plate, and a 2-inch Weather head (2-piece type) so I could remove the cover to feed the 3- LMR-400 coax with connectors, and also my flat 1-inch copper ground strap, in and out of my radio room. I have 2- 10-foot x 3/4-inch copper-clad ground rods (because of all the sand), and I attached the copper to a flat ground bracket that's attached to the first ground rod. This copper also attaches to the second ground rod using another flat copper ground clamp, 6 feet away. Along with the flat ground strap, I also had room to feed at least one, and maybe 2- RG8X cables (without connectors) through the PVC, at a later date, as needed. My lightning arrestors are also attached to the first ground rod, just outside of the foundation. This has been installed for over 12 years, without a problem of any kind! God Bless You!
I find the MFJ window feed through's work very well - they weather seal nicely and no holes in the wall like in my previous home. Also makes it easy to disconnect radio cables when storms come in, and then put on a shorting cap (cable braid conductor to center short) I do not trust just the arrestors when sparks fly close by outside
Thank you again Dave for these videos during the year 2023. I wish you a Happy New Year 2024 for you and your family. I will follow your next videos with delight for the year 2024. 73/F8MGW.
I have a bi level house. I ran my 3 coaxes through the attic eve then thru an attic vent eve to a grounding bar on the chimney. This is how I did mine!
One thing I recommend, overestimate the size you need. Look at how big that box is and remember its for 10 cables. I had looked up the specs from M&P for bend radius and based the box size on that etc. Bad mistake since I didn't give myself any wiggle room so I ended up having to buy a larger junction box. What looks good on paper does not always translate into reality.
I did the same thing, maybe the same size, with 8 arrestors. I wish I would have been able to mount 12 arrestors, but the box and the copper plate would have had to be bigger than the current 20x20x6" setup, since there should be a horizontal terminator line, where the input coax from antennas never pass the arrestors, which would mean flashover from the antenna lines to the radio lines, if struck by lightning. In order to increase qty of arrestors, the width of the box would need to increase. However, I never considered stacking arrestors, like you are doing.
Harger carries .032", .062" and .250" thicknesses. Just be sure to use the copper grease stuff (forget the name) under the arrestors, to help keep surfaces from oxidizing and to keep resistance low between arrestors and the ground plate. I would use 1/4-20 bolts, not the little self-tappers.
Perfect timing. I’m literally doing this right now
Thanks Dave. After working as an internet service installer I have gotten more creative with my coax installs. For the outside I used a hinged door PVC box and can get a copper ground bar for mounting lightning protection. I use pvc conduit through the wall, as you explained, but once inside, I use a low voltage wall box, that has no back on them, and then I use a brush plate cover for the box. This allows cables to come through and provides a basic seal. The cool thing is when you go to sell your house, or change locations, you can simply replace the brush cover plate with a standard outlet “blank” plate and it looks normal for the next occupant. I normally try to install the pass-through at a height and location that looks typical after a cover is installed. Enjoy your videos. Dave in Oregon W7PDQ
Perfect! That's a nice setup! I'll be testing in February and gathering equipment now for a spring install. Thank you for the video!
Hi Dave, I used gray 2-inch PVC electrical conduit through my home sill plate, and a 2-inch Weather head (2-piece type) so I could remove the cover to feed the 3- LMR-400 coax with connectors, and also my flat 1-inch copper ground strap, in and out of my radio room. I have 2- 10-foot x 3/4-inch copper-clad ground rods (because of all the sand), and I attached the copper to a flat ground bracket that's attached to the first ground rod. This copper also attaches to the second ground rod using another flat copper ground clamp, 6 feet away. Along with the flat ground strap, I also had room to feed at least one, and maybe 2- RG8X cables (without connectors) through the PVC, at a later date, as needed. My lightning arrestors are also attached to the first ground rod, just outside of the foundation. This has been installed for over 12 years, without a problem of any kind! God Bless You!
I find the MFJ window feed through's work very well - they weather seal nicely and no holes in the wall like in my previous home. Also makes it easy to disconnect radio cables when storms come in, and then put on a shorting cap (cable braid conductor to center short) I do not trust just the arrestors when sparks fly close by outside
Thank you again Dave for these videos during the year 2023. I wish you a Happy New Year 2024 for you and your family. I will follow your next videos with delight for the year 2024. 73/F8MGW.
I have a bi level house. I ran my 3 coaxes through the attic eve then thru an attic vent eve to a grounding bar on the chimney. This is how I did mine!
Dx engineering has a great box
Thanks Dave - Luckily, I was able to drill through the inner and outer walls without said "insulation wrap". 🙂
One thing I recommend, overestimate the size you need. Look at how big that box is and remember its for 10 cables. I had looked up the specs from M&P for bend radius and based the box size on that etc. Bad mistake since I didn't give myself any wiggle room so I ended up having to buy a larger junction box. What looks good on paper does not always translate into reality.
I may redo my setup. Thanks, Dave. N0QFT
I did the same thing, maybe the same size, with 8 arrestors. I wish I would have been able to mount 12 arrestors, but the box and the copper plate would have had to be bigger than the current 20x20x6" setup, since there should be a horizontal terminator line, where the input coax from antennas never pass the arrestors, which would mean flashover from the antenna lines to the radio lines, if struck by lightning. In order to increase qty of arrestors, the width of the box would need to increase. However, I never considered stacking arrestors, like you are doing.
What is used to secure the PVC rigid conduit inside the shack coming from the box outside? Same fitting as inside the box?
What thickness are those copper plates that the arrestors attach to?
Harger carries .032", .062" and .250" thicknesses. Just be sure to use the copper grease stuff (forget the name) under the arrestors, to help keep surfaces from oxidizing and to keep resistance low between arrestors and the ground plate. I would use 1/4-20 bolts, not the little self-tappers.