Just a heads up, I tried to purchased the Cha Quad One and it is unavailable on their website. It saddened me, I was already to try this as I have a small footprint in my backyard. Great video though, very informative. I will likely try building one.
I homebrewed my own as well using a standard 8 sided steel electrical box found at any home improvement/hardware store. My mast is a surplus military portable mast kit and I've attached a 1" galvanized pipe to accept the antenna system. For the wiring, I've used 16 AWG electrical wire and have only soldered the wire to the tip of the SO239. PVC pipe is definitely a good alternative to the mast I have. The mast must be robust enough to support the weight of 4 dipoles; and be sure to use guy ropes, especially if the antenna is above 10'. Thank you for the great videos Dave. p.s., I agree with you about that MFJ unit looking a bit flimsy. Stay safe and happy hamming everyone. 🙂
Thanks Dave, im definetly going to make one of these, a 4x 4 electrical box 4 SO-239 Stud Mount 3/8x24, a $5 antenna mount from menards... $40 im on the air ... add my 20 m and 40m hamsticks... AWESOME! Thanks
I recently purchased the quad for POTA so found your video helpful. I was using a hamstick dipole one band at a time. This will be much easier. I use a painter's pole as a mast.
i have a vertical on a tilt=over mount, with HOA restrictions, never been asked to tilt it out of sight. In my application to the HOA, I offered to tilt it down - nobody asked. Almost 20 years.
Hello Dave, Great video, I use hamsticks for POTA and mobile, I have also used them as a dipole and made a 2 element yagii from hamsticks that worked reasonably well. Another antenna that works very well as a dipole is the Hustler mobile antennas, the advantage of the Hustler is the mast stays the same and you just change the loading coil to change bands, as well it makes a smaller package for POTA or SOTA activations. I use the hamstick and Hustler verticals on a camera tripod with 36ft radials for POTA, I have worked all over the world with them during this current solar cycle. Kevin VE3RRH
As far as the moisture getting into the box, why couldn't you pop the cover and fill the cavity with something that would harden and take up the space, like silicone or epoxy?
Another great video. Thank you! This is wonderful that you introduce new ideas and methods of getting on the air. After my home burned to the ground, I lost all my antennas to severe weather and snow.
I home build one of these years ago to take trailer camping. I used a 2 inch pvc section with mounts for 2 hamsticks (single band, 40M). It worked pretty well and was extremely fast to deploy. I still have that one, thinking about adding a couple of studs for two more sticks to make it dual band. Schedule 40 PVC is very rugged. You could probably go up to 3 inch pipe / cap and get three dipoles on it.
Another informative video.....I used for a while the MFJ-347 mount with "real" hamsticks I've had for years and it worked, one band at a time. My complaint was it was tedious to tune each hamstick independently then both hamsticks together to create a balanced dipole.....anyway, it does work. 73/K6SDW
Eddy - what is the process you used to tune the sticks? A ham told me in a ham store to only insert one stick at a time, then insert both sticks for the desired band and the tuning would be pretty close. I found that this did not work. What method did you use? 73 BretC/AC0AE
@@BretChilcott Yup, that's what I've done in the past...I haven't used the hamsticks in quite a while, I've relied more on an EFHW dipole for portable use. GL/73
Dave - So appreciate your ability to teach complex topics in a simple and straightforward manner. The Vector Network Analyzer video I watched preceding this on on the Hamstick antenna hub was outstanding.
Dave that is similar to what I use for field day. I use Hustler MO 3 mobile masts in a dipole configuration with appropriate resonators on each mast. I made a mount out or 1/4 in x 1 in 6061 flat stock aluminum, I drilled a 7/32nd in hole and threaded it for 3/8 x 24 I then drilled a 1/2 in hole for a 3/8 x 24 to so 239 insulated mount i took from an old CB mirror mount . I cut the flat stock to 9 inches and drilled the mast mounting holes to fit the mast I used. I also have used the Hustler VP1 3 resonator adapter to have 3 HF bands . The MO3 masts are also tunable to 6 meters with a tuner.
A dipole is pretty directional, so do you need a rotor? I tend to orient my directional antenna (random length wire with an un-un) in a north/south direction so that the effective coverage is east/west. But, these antennas (both MFJ and Camilian) would have multiple effective coverages, depending on the band. I've successfully used 'ham sticks' as a vertical dipole with pretty good success, but I have to change them when I change bands. It would be nice if someone made a vertical mount for multiple bands.
Dave - Thank you for sharing your knowledge to the ham community and doing so in a way that is easy to understand. Keep up the good work! 73, BretC/AC0AE
For POTA I'm using a 20m Shark Ham Stick with a mag mount on top of a Dodge pickup. It works absolutely great. Love it. At home I'm using an MFJ-2220 with the 20m MFJ hamsticks mounted on a 17' telescoping pole. Its not working so well I think because its not high enough to clear the houses. I'm considering a 17' whip on top of the 17' pole to get height but I don't know what to do about a countrpoise.
I have considered these. I did try a dipole with two old Chameleon V1 whips. I didn't seem to think it worked well, but I also didn't spend a lot of time on it. Perhaps a re-try this summer. For now, I use a DX Commander 12.4m vertical for most bands and a horizontal L efhw for 80m with Chameleon Hybrid mini as the transformer because it receives so much less noise with about the same signal for 75m. It is used mostly for regional contacts. This model of DX Commander isn't very portable, though. The more I delve into antennas, I now see why the dedicated go for a HiQ or similar screwdriver antenna.
I have used hamsticks in either dipole mode or a single as a vertical. As you say, they work amazingly well. I have many dx contacts on 20 meters with the dipole only 8 feet off the ground. I use an "armstrong" rotor for directionality issues, but find there is not much of a null at the ends. As a vertical, I used a tuned single or two wire counterpoise - essentially a vertical, L dipole.
I really enjoyed this video. Searching, I found the SO239 single hole mount available, plus the big box stores sell a die cast 4" octagon aluminum electrical box... far less in cost and very study and 6 sides for 3 bands or move if you were to stack the boxes. Perhaps on your segment of email reviews, you could start a more indeep look at viewers follow ups of your videos. Thanks again
Brand new, my MFJ octopus center was DC shorted inside the hub, so I had to disassemble & repair. After repair, even tho my ohm meter said it was ok, the thing would not tune with 8 sticks connected. Tuning any one would affect the other three. So frustrating! I don't recommend multiple band models.
Excellent review, thanks. Definitely better made than the MFJ octopus, but I'm disappointed Chameleon dropped their own "octopus" version. I've been running one of the MFJs for several months and it works really well for me. I did put a zip log bag over the head to serve as a "shower cap" to keep the water out. And I lower my mast significantly when the wind picks up. But, it's an effective antenna system especially between 10-20 meters. It's meh on 40, and on 80 I only get a tiny little bandwidth, but I tune that for the digital services I use and it suffices. I just worked a station in Australia with FT8 at 14 watts on 20 meters yesterday, from northern Virginia! No complaints.
they possibly got so many complaints as folks foundout hamstick dipoles are total shit they dropped it to save the grief when customers realised the concept looks good on paper but works crap.
I'm returning to ham radio after a long absence, and was surprised to see a company (MFJ) supply a coax feed to a balanced antenna, then ... match it? ... adapt it? ... by just adding common-mode cores around the coax. How does this compare to a proper balun -- can 1:1 baluns be replaced by simply adding common-mode cores?
Great as always Dave....Question please: Does the Hamstick, with wire wrapped around a rod, give the same result as that wire stretched out? Thanks, Steve KZ5MSE
You mentioned a crank up tower, I find that the majority of people do not look any higher than eye level and they are also not looking for stuff like that, however us amatuer radio operators do look for towers and antennas to see how the other hams might be!
I'm guessing that on the Chameleon design it'll be a bit tricky to tune the stingers since there is nearly a 4" difference in distance from one antenna connector to the SO-239 than the other. It won't be as noticable on 80 meters as it would be on 20 meters, or 10 meters. They ARE a compromise antenna system especially on say 80 meters, not so much on 10 meters, but they WORK! I've used this type of system over the years on many occasions. I haven't used more than two bands at a time, and I kept the jumper wires the same length from the SO-239 to each antenna mounting point (Homebrew). I have a feed point rigged up with two 80 meter hamsticks and fed with heavy 300 ohm twin to test as a loaded Doublet. In my mind I think it'll work? Far weather experiment coming up. 73's N9XFX Dennis.....
I find a great way to experiment is use a laptop or smartphone to tune to a WEBSDR like utah or KFS etc and see what your signals look like far from your QTH. I found out a HamStick on the back of my van does 2 to 5 db better than the 19' tunable endfed on the back of the van. I use a 15 and 20m hamstcks on a plate in the back yard for worldwide WSPR coverage. Yep they get out and receive well.
Dave, on each connection in the Chamelion box, was there an active device on each connection? or just a solder connection to each antenna position? I couldn't make out if there was a device on each?
Do you know if the mono-band ones will also work for other frequencies, or do the coils not work that way? So for example, a 60m antenna working for presumably 1/4 wavelength might also work for 30m as a 1/2 wavelength? I have a 160m and a 60m, and think it'd be nice if they could work decently well on these other frequencies. Being a relatively new ham, I don't have the equipment to easily test this out yet. Thanks.
Dave, great video as always. While I don't subscribe to using more than one set of 20 meter hamsticks in a dipole configuration, I have yet to find the recommended way to tune them. Some have said to tune them one at a time for the frequency, but this does not work. Is there any information that would help?
These were first made by Mark Products. One model was the Firestick. Motorola used custom versions on HF. Top loading is the most efficient. Later the adjustable spike on top was added for CB and hams. I had an 10 ft KW level custom model on 20m and worked the world. No good for drive thru though! Retd Mot HF/ microwave systems engr. Back to back they make nice compact dipole. Few dB loss but narrow gives extra selectivity for front end and sheath reduces rain static. 73 wa2kbz
Surprised to hear you worked at IBM Westlake. I had a friend, Bob Shellhorn - (__6ORE, SK) who also worked there. He moved from Ventura county to Colorado. Maybe 1984? Does the name ring a bell? He said he worked in the 'Basement', if that helps.
I live on the 10th floor of a 30 story steel & concrete building. I have the CHA spider with 4 pairs of "hamsticks" on my balcony - it is an XYL approved solution and gets me out (best so far is Tel Aviv to Buenos Aries.). Well recommended. 73 de 4Z4DR
Dave, my father and I are going to become Hams in the very near future. We are looking into 10m radios right now. What would your suggestion be for the best 10m antenna option where Terrain could be a slight issue. I was liking the Chameleon quad1 but it is not available anylonger. Can you tell me where to source the internal parts to make one? I don't mind making my own if you think it would be a worthwhile effort for our application. Thanks in advance for your response. Chuck and Ron.
My first rule for new hams: do NOT buy or acquire any equipment until AFTER you pass your test!! Over my almost 50 years as a ham, I've seen too many folks shell out big bucks and then for whatever reason (lost job, kids, education, job change) not get that license! If you pass your tech, you've got lots of tech things to do such as FM voice, digital, APRS, satellites, etc. When you pass your General, then get a simple station and start learning. See www.dcasler.com/reference for a sample station. Good luck with your studying! It's a great father-son project.
It's called an helix wound top loaded antenna, just like firestik CB antennas. Typical firestik lengths for example are APPROXIMATE RANGE: 2 TO 7 MILES Transmit and receive range will vary dramatically based on conditions and the mounting location of the antenna. But for a rough approximation, you can expect the following range from these lengths of fiberglass antennas. 2' Length: 2 to 3 miles 3' Length: 3 to 4 miles 4' Length: 4 to 6 miles 5' Length: 5 to 7 miles They work very well but have narrow bandwidth because of the thin copper wire used, not because it's shortened....
These are not really like the CB versions. They are more center loaded, and can tx/rx hundreds or thousands of miles on the HF bands. I frequently talk DX with hamstick style HF antennas. Dave is correct that the loading causes the hi Q (and thus narrower bandwidths). The diameter of the whip or wire has negligible effect. A "standard' 14 ga wire antenna like a dipole has a diameter of 0.0641. Hamsticks have wire whip diameters between .1 and .125".
@@cyclecamp1 If you want to get picky,Yes the Hamstick is centre loaded only because it has a longer top whip, take that away and you have a Top loaded CB type firestik. You do know CB firestiks can be used on SSB too and go thousands of miles! If antennas are electrically shortened they will not perform as well on TX/RX, this has nothing to do with bandwidth!. Use a online (Antenna Bandwidth Calculator) center frequency, wire velocity and wire diameter is in the formula not height.
How well hamsticks work depends a lot on the band. The 10 meter version is basically a quarter-wave. The 20 meter is about half the length of a quarter-wave, so you get about -3dbd. 40 meter is about -6dbd. So not great on longer wavelength bands, but very usable on 20 meters and shorter.
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Just a heads up, I tried to purchased the Cha Quad One and it is unavailable on their website. It saddened me, I was already to try this as I have a small footprint in my backyard. Great video though, very informative. I will likely try building one.
I homebrewed my own as well using a standard 8 sided steel electrical box found at any home improvement/hardware store. My mast is a surplus military portable mast kit and I've attached a 1" galvanized pipe to accept the antenna system.
For the wiring, I've used 16 AWG electrical wire and have only soldered the wire to the tip of the SO239.
PVC pipe is definitely a good alternative to the mast I have. The mast must be robust enough to support the weight of 4 dipoles; and be sure to use guy ropes, especially if the antenna is above 10'.
Thank you for the great videos Dave.
p.s., I agree with you about that MFJ unit looking a bit flimsy.
Stay safe and happy hamming everyone. 🙂
Thanks Dave, im definetly going to make one of these, a 4x 4 electrical box 4 SO-239 Stud Mount 3/8x24, a $5 antenna mount from menards... $40 im on the air ... add my 20 m and 40m hamsticks... AWESOME! Thanks
I recently purchased the quad for POTA so found your video helpful. I was using a hamstick dipole one band at a time. This will be much easier. I use a painter's pole as a mast.
Thanks!
i have a vertical on a tilt=over mount, with HOA restrictions, never been asked to tilt it out of sight. In my application to the HOA, I offered to tilt it down - nobody asked. Almost 20 years.
2:16, Dave your a wealth of info, but also mis info - I use ham sticks as horizontal antennas all the time, in tandem.
Hello Dave, Great video, I use hamsticks for POTA and mobile, I have also used them as a dipole and made a 2 element yagii from hamsticks that worked reasonably well. Another antenna that works very well as a dipole is the Hustler mobile antennas, the advantage of the Hustler is the mast stays the same and you just change the loading coil to change bands, as well it makes a smaller package for POTA or SOTA activations. I use the hamstick and Hustler verticals on a camera tripod with 36ft radials for POTA, I have worked all over the world with them during this current solar cycle. Kevin VE3RRH
Sir, I am a former AF Firefighter. You have taught me more than anything about antennae!!
As far as the moisture getting into the box, why couldn't you pop the cover and fill the cavity with something that would harden and take up the space, like silicone or epoxy?
Another great video. Thank you! This is wonderful that you introduce new ideas and methods of getting on the air.
After my home burned to the ground, I lost all my antennas to severe weather and snow.
Thank you, David.
I home build one of these years ago to take trailer camping. I used a 2 inch pvc section with mounts for 2 hamsticks (single band, 40M). It worked pretty well and was extremely fast to deploy. I still have that one, thinking about adding a couple of studs for two more sticks to make it dual band. Schedule 40 PVC is very rugged. You could probably go up to 3 inch pipe / cap and get three dipoles on it.
Another informative video.....I used for a while the MFJ-347 mount with "real" hamsticks I've had for years and it worked, one band at a time. My complaint was it was tedious to tune each hamstick independently then both hamsticks together to create a balanced dipole.....anyway, it does work. 73/K6SDW
Eddy - what is the process you used to tune the sticks? A ham told me in a ham store to only insert one stick at a time, then insert both sticks for the desired band and the tuning would be pretty close. I found that this did not work. What method did you use? 73 BretC/AC0AE
@@BretChilcott Yup, that's what I've done in the past...I haven't used the hamsticks in quite a while, I've relied more on an EFHW dipole for portable use. GL/73
Dave - So appreciate your ability to teach complex topics in a simple and straightforward manner. The Vector Network Analyzer video I watched preceding this on on the Hamstick antenna hub was outstanding.
The quantity has been updated on our website!
Out of stock 😒
Dave that is similar to what I use for field day. I use Hustler MO 3 mobile masts in a dipole configuration with appropriate resonators on each mast. I made a mount out or 1/4 in x 1 in 6061 flat stock aluminum, I drilled a 7/32nd in hole and threaded it for 3/8 x 24 I then drilled a 1/2 in hole for a 3/8 x 24 to so 239 insulated mount i took from an old CB mirror mount . I cut the flat stock to 9 inches and drilled the mast mounting holes to fit the mast I used. I also have used the Hustler VP1 3 resonator adapter to have 3 HF bands . The MO3 masts are also tunable to 6 meters with a tuner.
A dipole is pretty directional, so do you need a rotor? I tend to orient my directional antenna (random length wire with an un-un) in a north/south direction so that the effective coverage is east/west. But, these antennas (both MFJ and Camilian) would have multiple effective coverages, depending on the band. I've successfully used 'ham sticks' as a vertical dipole with pretty good success, but I have to change them when I change bands. It would be nice if someone made a vertical mount for multiple bands.
Dave - Thank you for sharing your knowledge to the ham community and doing so in a way that is easy to understand. Keep up the good work! 73, BretC/AC0AE
For POTA I'm using a 20m Shark Ham Stick with a mag mount on top of a Dodge pickup. It works absolutely great. Love it. At home I'm using an MFJ-2220 with the 20m MFJ hamsticks mounted on a 17' telescoping pole. Its not working so well I think because its not high enough to clear the houses. I'm considering a 17' whip on top of the 17' pole to get height but I don't know what to do about a countrpoise.
I have a 20 Meter ham stick that I use on a mag mount on my suv (not while driving) and it works great!
I have considered these. I did try a dipole with two old Chameleon V1 whips. I didn't seem to think it worked well, but I also didn't spend a lot of time on it. Perhaps a re-try this summer.
For now, I use a DX Commander 12.4m vertical for most bands and a horizontal L efhw for 80m with Chameleon Hybrid mini as the transformer because it receives so much less noise with about the same signal for 75m. It is used mostly for regional contacts. This model of DX Commander isn't very portable, though.
The more I delve into antennas, I now see why the dedicated go for a HiQ or similar screwdriver antenna.
I have used hamsticks in either dipole mode or a single as a vertical. As you say, they work amazingly well. I have many dx contacts on 20 meters with the dipole only 8 feet off the ground. I use an "armstrong" rotor for directionality issues, but find there is not much of a null at the ends. As a vertical, I used a tuned single or two wire counterpoise - essentially a vertical, L dipole.
Thanks, Dave. This is just what I was looking for.
I really enjoyed this video. Searching, I found the SO239 single hole mount available, plus the big box stores sell a die cast 4" octagon aluminum electrical box... far less in cost and very study and 6 sides for 3 bands or move if you were to stack the boxes. Perhaps on your segment of email reviews, you could start a more indeep look at viewers follow ups of your videos.
Thanks again
Can you please post the source for the octagon die cast box? TNX BretC/AC0AE
Brand new, my MFJ octopus center was DC shorted inside the hub, so I had to disassemble & repair. After repair, even tho my ohm meter said it was ok, the thing would not tune with 8 sticks connected. Tuning any one would affect the other three. So frustrating! I don't recommend multiple band models.
Excellent review, thanks. Definitely better made than the MFJ octopus, but I'm disappointed Chameleon dropped their own "octopus" version. I've been running one of the MFJs for several months and it works really well for me. I did put a zip log bag over the head to serve as a "shower cap" to keep the water out. And I lower my mast significantly when the wind picks up. But, it's an effective antenna system especially between 10-20 meters. It's meh on 40, and on 80 I only get a tiny little bandwidth, but I tune that for the digital services I use and it suffices. I just worked a station in Australia with FT8 at 14 watts on 20 meters yesterday, from northern Virginia! No complaints.
they possibly got so many complaints as folks foundout hamstick dipoles are total shit they dropped it to save the grief when customers realised the concept looks good on paper but works crap.
Rotatable dipole. Very effective antenna for linited spaces....
I'm returning to ham radio after a long absence, and was surprised to see a company (MFJ) supply a coax feed to a balanced antenna, then ... match it? ... adapt it? ... by just adding common-mode cores around the coax. How does this compare to a proper balun -- can 1:1 baluns be replaced by simply adding common-mode cores?
Impressive ! Ordered. Thank you !
Can this be mounted in an attic?
Yes!
Great as always Dave....Question please: Does the Hamstick, with wire wrapped around a rod, give the same result as that wire stretched out? Thanks, Steve KZ5MSE
Chameleon sells a CHA 50' COAX with integrated RFI Choke for $89.00. This coax is included in many of their antenna systems.
Thanks Dave. Between you and Mike K8MRD I'm determined to learn what's up with hamsticks!
You mentioned a crank up tower, I find that the majority of people do not look any higher than eye level and they are also not looking for stuff like that, however us amatuer radio operators do look for towers and antennas to see how the other hams might be!
I'm guessing that on the Chameleon design it'll be a bit tricky to tune the stingers since there is nearly a 4" difference in distance from one antenna connector to the SO-239 than the other. It won't be as noticable on 80 meters as it would be on 20 meters, or 10 meters. They ARE a compromise antenna system especially on say 80 meters, not so much on 10 meters, but they WORK! I've used this type of system over the years on many occasions. I haven't used more than two bands at a time, and I kept the jumper wires the same length from the SO-239 to each antenna mounting point (Homebrew). I have a feed point rigged up with two 80 meter hamsticks and fed with heavy 300 ohm twin to test as a loaded Doublet. In my mind I think it'll work? Far weather experiment coming up. 73's N9XFX Dennis.....
I find a great way to experiment is use a laptop or smartphone to tune to a WEBSDR like utah or KFS etc and see what your signals look like far from your QTH. I found out a HamStick on the back of my van does 2 to 5 db better than the 19' tunable endfed on the back of the van. I use a 15 and 20m hamstcks on a plate in the back yard for worldwide WSPR coverage. Yep they get out and receive well.
Another great video, Dave.
I have a hamstick dipole I can mount vertical or horizontal
Dave, on each connection in the Chamelion box, was there an active device on each connection? or just a solder connection to each antenna position? I couldn't make out if there was a device on each?
Do you know if the mono-band ones will also work for other frequencies, or do the coils not work that way? So for example, a 60m antenna working for presumably 1/4 wavelength might also work for 30m as a 1/2 wavelength? I have a 160m and a 60m, and think it'd be nice if they could work decently well on these other frequencies. Being a relatively new ham, I don't have the equipment to easily test this out yet. Thanks.
Could you stack these one on top of the other, separated by a specific distance? And if yes, what would be the minimum distance of separation?
Dave, great video as always. While I don't subscribe to using more than one set of 20 meter hamsticks in a dipole configuration, I have yet to find the recommended way to tune them. Some have said to tune them one at a time for the frequency, but this does not work. Is there any information that would help?
Looks like Chameleon discontinued these. If you have any influence with them Dave, please ask them to make another batch. I have a use for this.
These were first made by Mark Products. One model was the Firestick. Motorola used custom versions on HF. Top loading is the most efficient. Later the adjustable spike on top was added for CB and hams. I had an 10 ft KW level custom model on 20m and worked the world. No good for drive thru though! Retd Mot HF/ microwave systems engr. Back to back they make nice compact dipole. Few dB loss but narrow gives extra selectivity for front end and sheath reduces rain static. 73 wa2kbz
Surprised to hear you worked at IBM Westlake. I had a friend, Bob Shellhorn - (__6ORE, SK) who also worked there. He moved from Ventura county to Colorado. Maybe 1984? Does the name ring a bell? He said he worked in the 'Basement', if that helps.
I live on the 10th floor of a 30 story steel & concrete building. I have the CHA spider with 4 pairs of "hamsticks" on my balcony - it is an XYL approved solution and gets me out (best so far is Tel Aviv to Buenos Aries.). Well recommended. 73 de 4Z4DR
Dave, my father and I are going to become Hams in the very near future. We are looking into 10m radios right now. What would your suggestion be for the best 10m antenna option where Terrain could be a slight issue. I was liking the Chameleon quad1 but it is not available anylonger. Can you tell me where to source the internal parts to make one? I don't mind making my own if you think it would be a worthwhile effort for our application. Thanks in advance for your response. Chuck and Ron.
My first rule for new hams: do NOT buy or acquire any equipment until AFTER you pass your test!! Over my almost 50 years as a ham, I've seen too many folks shell out big bucks and then for whatever reason (lost job, kids, education, job change) not get that license! If you pass your tech, you've got lots of tech things to do such as FM voice, digital, APRS, satellites, etc. When you pass your General, then get a simple station and start learning. See www.dcasler.com/reference for a sample station. Good luck with your studying! It's a great father-son project.
Great video, pity they are sold out now
I take it this would be a directional antenna and would require a rotor unless you wanted your two bands to radiate in opposite directions?
It would be like a wire dipole. And yes, it could be rotated for better directivity.
If you had 4 10meter or 4 of the same hamsticks what will this improve if anything?
I just asked Dave the same question but for 20 meters. Did you get an answer? Ray. W8ISK
start video at 1:10
If it's too good to be true it probably isn't there. I would certainly buy it if it were still available.
great video
It's called an helix wound top loaded antenna, just like firestik CB antennas.
Typical firestik lengths for example are APPROXIMATE RANGE: 2 TO 7 MILES
Transmit and receive range will vary dramatically based on conditions and the mounting location of the antenna. But for a rough approximation, you can expect the following range from these lengths of fiberglass antennas.
2' Length: 2 to 3 miles
3' Length: 3 to 4 miles
4' Length: 4 to 6 miles
5' Length: 5 to 7 miles
They work very well but have narrow bandwidth because of the thin copper wire used, not because it's shortened....
These are not really like the CB versions. They are more center loaded, and can tx/rx hundreds or thousands of miles on the HF bands. I frequently talk DX with hamstick style HF antennas. Dave is correct that the loading causes the hi Q (and thus narrower bandwidths). The diameter of the whip or wire has negligible effect. A "standard' 14 ga wire antenna like a dipole has a diameter of 0.0641. Hamsticks have wire whip diameters between .1 and .125".
@@cyclecamp1 If you want to get picky,Yes the Hamstick is centre loaded only because it has a longer top whip, take that away and you have a Top loaded CB type firestik.
You do know CB firestiks can be used on SSB too and go thousands of miles!
If antennas are electrically shortened they will not perform as well on TX/RX, this has nothing to do with bandwidth!.
Use a online (Antenna Bandwidth Calculator)
center frequency, wire velocity and wire diameter is in the formula not height.
Pardon?
Well, all gone as of now! :( Got any ideas?
Appears to be sold out everywhere now
Back in stock!!
You can make your own using parts found at any hardware store and hamfests.
Already out of stock!
Qantity has been updated on the website! Back in stock!
Preparing for heavy reverse engineering and self build 😀
the longest dummy load you will ever need!
Just because it resonates doesn't mean it radiates. Anybody remember the Isotron?
Hamsticks are basically resistors. An inexpensive tuner and as much wire as you can deploy is a much more efficient way to go.
How well hamsticks work depends a lot on the band. The 10 meter version is basically a quarter-wave. The 20 meter is about half the length of a quarter-wave, so you get about -3dbd. 40 meter is about -6dbd. So not great on longer wavelength bands, but very usable on 20 meters and shorter.
@@DavidSmith_W6DPS A 1/4 wave on 10 is not as efficient as a random wire of longer length.
Thanks, Dave. Good story, well told. AB5XZ
Thank you, Dave. N0QFT
Thanks!
Thank you for your financial support of this channel! It is greatly appreciated! 73, Dave, KE0OG