Great work, i just finished watching this series, and it's great that you're showing the Ukrainians and Americans the fundamentals of putting a piece of steel that strong together. On March 19, 2003, I was at Camp Patriot Kuwait with NCHB-1, and on February 4, 2022, I was in Kyiv Ukraine backpacking across Europe and eventually after the war started I dug a few trenches, and medically treated a one mortar injury, one trumatic brain injury from a laser guided missile attack for which I was present..and one panic attack.. But that's about it before evacuating to Warsaw Poland. So thank you for keeping Ukraine in your heart. John Hendricks Norris United States Marines Ret. Memphis Tennessee
As a german, I had to laugh very much at the very unexpected "Scheisse!" (Shit!) 🤣🤣🤣 How about a rised weldbead around the edge so spaling would be directed away from the body? My master always said: "Especially we masters need a humbling experience once in a while." 😉
hi.. In the beginning, everything was fine))))... and it seems to me that Kevlar works well. BUT probably need to do more overlaps on the sides. and, in theory, it works as a whole mass so far .. and when you destroyed it, it stopped working normally. THANKS for the work!... continue to follow the release of your videos)..
Can't wait for your next test! Working with some volunteers making armor right now. :) Using other methods but they have been incredibly heavy, so any developments are good ones!
excellent work i already saw the demo ranch armor as someone who made composite armor i must say composite such as kevlar drag bullets towards themselves,so if you used a few layers the problem might be that, it's most likely to be the heating process though any way I'm waiting to see more videos from you cause i have an idea that your videos can help me out
If you don’t catch my other comment, check out the way Knight’s armor dealt with shards or spalling from arrows. Tod’s workshop armor versus arrows videos show the V-shape on the upper chest deflecting any dangerous fragments away from the neck and face. Cool stuff!
Remember that back face deformation is still an important factor. NIJ standards have a clay block behind their armor and measure 44mm of indentation. This is the maximum for surviving chest shot injuries.
I agree .. But then I thought all the same that the Plate would be in a plate carrier - and so there are shock absorbers .. I hope so .. And from the video I also realized that after breaking through, many epoxy fragments fly out. I think that reliability needs as many layers of fabric from the back.
Now this is going to sound weird, especially in this context, but you can melt down and make armor out of milk jugs plastic. There are several videos of people doing this on youtube, but would it be posible to make a mold and have a heat treated steel plate in the center of the plastic with a kevlar wraping along the outside? I ask about the Kevlar wrapping because that plastic performs better when wrapped or held from expanding. Not sure what overall efects that would have on your armor sadly, but it is an idea.
Love your stuff Voo Doo. I was wondering if you were able to get the kevlar wrapping around the dragonscale, would it be better? You would be able to get a more uniform heat treat over the the plates while still having a liner that could take the spall. Side note: have you tried plates with a tempering cycle after HT? *Salutes with hammer* Keep swinging!
I noticed in the heat treating video that it wasn’t evenly colored! I was going to mention it but… well I figured I’d watch the rest of the videos and keep my mouth shut and just see what happened.
and also a thought. Do you remember the video where the American made purely Kevlar armor? .. - there he blinded many layers and squeezed them .. And here I think the bullet fragments dismantled the layers ... At least they were torn off from the metal ... And he conditionally had a monolith ... BUT even if you make a Kevlar monolith, it’s not clear how to attach it tightly to the plate .. Maybe it’s worth making a rough lateral surface of the plate so that it would be easier for Kevlar and resin to adhere to the metal ?. And I also wanted to ask what density the Kevlar fabric was .. and by the way, there may be a bad resin .. with poor adhesion to metal or fabric impregnation .. it can also be an option (
Hi. interesting .. We also thought about the side protective ears))) .. there are even test drawings))) BUT somehow it’s not a fact that it will work .. And you still need to bend them ... well, as it were, a good idea!
@@kenofken9458 The Russian military's standard issue 6B23 body armor, as well as the 6B12, its most recent predecessor, still use steel plates. Sooo there's that.
i wouldn't worry about not using a 5.45x39 it's so similar to our 5.56mm it doesn't matter! and a lot of that spam can 7.62x54R stuff is steel core! i haven't seen any in a granddaddy coon's age but wonder how it'd do against the chi-com steel core 7.62x39mm?
Yeah the 5.45 and 5.56 are close enough, and I am positive this is steel core 7.62x54R! I have a unopened spam can of the old chi com steel core but I hate to crack that open just yet!
Great work, i just finished watching this series, and it's great that you're showing the Ukrainians and Americans the fundamentals of putting a piece of steel that strong together. On March 19, 2003, I was at Camp Patriot Kuwait with NCHB-1, and on February 4, 2022, I was in Kyiv Ukraine backpacking across Europe and eventually after the war started I dug a few trenches, and medically treated a one mortar injury, one trumatic brain injury from a laser guided missile attack for which I was present..and one panic attack.. But that's about it before evacuating to Warsaw Poland. So thank you for keeping Ukraine in your heart.
John Hendricks Norris
United States Marines Ret.
Memphis Tennessee
As a german, I had to laugh very much at the very unexpected "Scheisse!" (Shit!) 🤣🤣🤣
How about a rised weldbead around the edge so spaling would be directed away from the body?
My master always said: "Especially we masters need a humbling experience once in a while." 😉
😁
Oh I can curse in many languages! I am looking into something around the edges to reduce spall, thank you so much for watching and the input!
Or even flanged edges or a cupped texture finish. To splash back.
Could always wear a spal collar the Russians wear it for their steel plates they wear
I'd imagine that if that the weld bead edge was hit It'd produce even more dangerous spall.
hi.. In the beginning, everything was fine))))... and it seems to me that Kevlar works well. BUT probably need to do more overlaps on the sides. and, in theory, it works as a whole mass so far .. and when you destroyed it, it stopped working normally. THANKS for the work!... continue to follow the release of your videos)..
yeah I am still working on it
@@VooDooTennessee Very glad to hear it)
Can't wait for your next test! Working with some volunteers making armor right now. :) Using other methods but they have been incredibly heavy, so any developments are good ones!
excellent work i already saw the demo ranch armor as someone who made composite armor i must say composite such as kevlar drag bullets towards themselves,so if you used a few layers the problem might be that, it's most likely to be the heating process though any way I'm waiting to see more videos from you cause i have an idea that your videos can help me out
Дякую за Ваш труд. Бажаю Вам успіхів та стрімкого розвитку вашого каналу.
Господи, благослови Україну. Дякую за підтримку!
If you don’t catch my other comment, check out the way Knight’s armor dealt with shards or spalling from arrows. Tod’s workshop armor versus arrows videos show the V-shape on the upper chest deflecting any dangerous fragments away from the neck and face.
Cool stuff!
Remember that back face deformation is still an important factor.
NIJ standards have a clay block behind their armor and measure 44mm of indentation.
This is the maximum for surviving chest shot injuries.
I agree .. But then I thought all the same that the Plate would be in a plate carrier - and so there are shock absorbers .. I hope so .. And from the video I also realized that after breaking through, many epoxy fragments fly out. I think that reliability needs as many layers of fabric from the back.
or as an idea, glue 5 mm EVA foam or similar isolon over the back of the kevlar layer
This is true, deformation on the rounds that didn't go through was minimal.
I did notice that your heat treat looked a little dull red as opposed to orange by the time you did your quench. Looked too cold
Now this is going to sound weird, especially in this context, but you can melt down and make armor out of milk jugs plastic. There are several videos of people doing this on youtube, but would it be posible to make a mold and have a heat treated steel plate in the center of the plastic with a kevlar wraping along the outside? I ask about the Kevlar wrapping because that plastic performs better when wrapped or held from expanding. Not sure what overall efects that would have on your armor sadly, but it is an idea.
Love your stuff Voo Doo. I was wondering if you were able to get the kevlar wrapping around the dragonscale, would it be better? You would be able to get a more uniform heat treat over the the plates while still having a liner that could take the spall.
Side note: have you tried plates with a tempering cycle after HT?
*Salutes with hammer* Keep swinging!
I have not, as I have no idea the properties of the steel it would lead to hours of experimentation I don't have. Thanks for watching!
I noticed in the heat treating video that it wasn’t evenly colored! I was going to mention it but… well I figured I’d watch the rest of the videos and keep my mouth shut and just see what happened.
and also a thought. Do you remember the video where the American made purely Kevlar armor? .. - there he blinded many layers and squeezed them .. And here I think the bullet fragments dismantled the layers ... At least they were torn off from the metal ... And he conditionally had a monolith ... BUT even if you make a Kevlar monolith, it’s not clear how to attach it tightly to the plate .. Maybe it’s worth making a rough lateral surface of the plate so that it would be easier for Kevlar and resin to adhere to the metal ?. And I also wanted to ask what density the Kevlar fabric was .. and by the way, there may be a bad resin .. with poor adhesion to metal or fabric impregnation .. it can also be an option (
Is that going inside a jacket because you have to leave it a little loose for it to catch the bullet
Duct tape and a composite poly and woven/ ballistic Kevlar layering
Cryo heat treat next one?
I'd form a metal ridge around the edge of the plate to catch the frag
Hi. interesting .. We also thought about the side protective ears))) .. there are even test drawings))) BUT somehow it’s not a fact that it will work .. And you still need to bend them ... well, as it were, a good idea!
Not a bad idea at all.
@@VooDooTennessee So what will the new armor be with ears? )))) .. if anything, I can send you the last drawing of those))))
At what point after adding features do you end up with a 30 pound plate?
There's a reason no modern military uses steel armor.
@@kenofken9458 The Russian military's standard issue 6B23 body armor, as well as the 6B12, its most recent predecessor, still use steel plates. Sooo there's that.
It's probably a 762x54 normally used in the mosin nagat or I believe the pkm
Leaf springs out of some old trucks works better than this.
i wouldn't worry about not using a 5.45x39 it's so similar to our 5.56mm it doesn't matter! and a lot of that spam can 7.62x54R stuff is steel core! i haven't seen any in a granddaddy coon's age but wonder how it'd do against the chi-com steel core 7.62x39mm?
Yeah the 5.45 and 5.56 are close enough, and I am positive this is steel core 7.62x54R! I have a unopened spam can of the old chi com steel core but I hate to crack that open just yet!
@@VooDooTennessee i ran out chi-com in 2007 myself!