They really do look great, I'm sure my grandson will enjoy watching this. He's been with us this weekend and has been working on his 009 layout. He's uploaded part two of his journey, which will document his build...cheers James 🙂👍
@@HighFell My grandfather was a coal miner in the pits in Ayrshire. There used to be coal trains all the time on the real life Dalmellington to Ayr line that ran through Hollybush.
Nice work, they look great. Can't wait to get my Mineral wagons. I hope Hornby get around to making the BR 16 ton wagons. I started my TT layout this weekend, feel quite nostalgic, my first model railway was German TT. Really Happy Hornby started this range. I enjoy your channel. Cheers Felix
All in preparation for ‘GrotFest’ it’s new thing up in the Dales, dirty railway stuff. We have an overseas attraction, ‘Grotski’ the Eastern European grot champion.. BR130
@HighFell He's a wrong un that Double O Dave of Liberty Junction. 🤣 As I watched, I couldn't believe the mess you had made, but the result stood out as the right decision
@@dinmorejunctionmodelrailway he blames Ladderman but….. Yes, it’s quite a sloppy old mess and the trick it’s cleaning it all back off, first time I tried it, I hoped it would work! I think the bit people get wrong with weathering is not getting the ‘dirt’ into the recesses
@dinmorejunctionmodelrailway you say that, a load of custard barrels ended up here! He isn’t so innocent. He has something going on with Thunberg PetroChemicals down at the docks….
Thank you. A bit of patience as always with any modelling. Let the paint and corrosion fluid dry and it’s easier to control the removal. If it doesn’t come out how you want you can always get it back. If it’s your first time doing any weathering, practice on something scrap or an old plastic toy with some mouldings in, just so you know what to expect. 👍
Thank you 😁 I don’t always use anything to fix the powders, unless you are handling stock it’s not really necessary. With some of these I have given the side frames a quick spray of Railmatch frame dirt, that will fix powders. You can use matt lacquer but that does knock the effects back quite a bit; you need to experiment with how more extreme you weather so that after lacquer it gives the finish you want. Be careful getting lots of products into wheels, pick ups mechanisms too.
If you want to approach this topic carefully and don't mind the abrasion over time, I recommend trying watercolours first. You can mix the relevant colours together on a palette beforehand. If you fail, the decisive advantage is that you can wash the paint off again without scrubbing... This is how I aged the rather clumsy, reflective plastic building facades as a child. I was proud back then of being able to do it without any instructions, before the internet. It was only later that I realised that this method is commonplace in model making and is known as weathering and washing.
As a teenage modeller I was using watercolours to have a go at weathering, getting it to stick on plastic was aways a bit tricky. Acrylics are so easily available now and have similar advantage that they can be washed off. This Citadel Typhus Corrosion is a game changer for rust effects, the texture is very good and it’s easy to work with. Thanks for sharing your tips too, this is the great part of the hobby 😁
They really do look great, I'm sure my grandson will enjoy watching this. He's been with us this weekend and has been working on his 009 layout. He's uploaded part two of his journey, which will document his build...cheers James 🙂👍
Looking forward to catching up on that too 😁
@@HighFell I hope you enjoy it 😁👍
Wow! Weathering these wagons really brings them to life!
Absolutely does, so many details that come alive. Very suitable for a Scottish layout 😁
@@HighFell My grandfather was a coal miner in the pits in Ayrshire. There used to be coal trains all the time on the real life Dalmellington to Ayr line that ran through Hollybush.
Nice work, they look great. Can't wait to get my Mineral wagons. I hope Hornby get around to making the BR 16 ton wagons. I started my TT layout this weekend, feel quite nostalgic, my first model railway was German TT. Really Happy Hornby started this range. I enjoy your channel. Cheers Felix
Hornby are fully invested in TT so I imagine we will get a lot more great models, 16t would be a sensible addition. 😁
Thank you, very helpful.
Thank you, I found it a really great technique 👍
Superb results 👍
All in preparation for ‘GrotFest’ it’s new thing up in the Dales, dirty railway stuff. We have an overseas attraction, ‘Grotski’ the Eastern European grot champion.. BR130
@@HighFell sounds fantastic! The grottier the better if you ask me 😀👍
I often see weathering over done but the difference from those wagons. As supplied by Hornby to yours after weathering has added value.
Nice one
Coal wagons need to be grotty to quote a certain Mr DubloDave
@HighFell He's a wrong un that Double O Dave of Liberty Junction. 🤣 As I watched, I couldn't believe the mess you had made, but the result stood out as the right decision
@@dinmorejunctionmodelrailway he blames Ladderman but….. Yes, it’s quite a sloppy old mess and the trick it’s cleaning it all back off, first time I tried it, I hoped it would work! I think the bit people get wrong with weathering is not getting the ‘dirt’ into the recesses
@HighFell that ladder man gets bullied by Double O
@dinmorejunctionmodelrailway you say that, a load of custard barrels ended up here! He isn’t so innocent. He has something going on with Thunberg PetroChemicals down at the docks….
Well that seems easy ! Now we will see how it comes out if I do it 😆
Thank you. A bit of patience as always with any modelling. Let the paint and corrosion fluid dry and it’s easier to control the removal. If it doesn’t come out how you want you can always get it back. If it’s your first time doing any weathering, practice on something scrap or an old plastic toy with some mouldings in, just so you know what to expect. 👍
Another great video, what would you use to fix the powders?
Thank you 😁 I don’t always use anything to fix the powders, unless you are handling stock it’s not really necessary. With some of these I have given the side frames a quick spray of Railmatch frame dirt, that will fix powders. You can use matt lacquer but that does knock the effects back quite a bit; you need to experiment with how more extreme you weather so that after lacquer it gives the finish you want. Be careful getting lots of products into wheels, pick ups mechanisms too.
If you want to approach this topic carefully and don't mind the abrasion over time, I recommend trying watercolours first.
You can mix the relevant colours together on a palette beforehand.
If you fail, the decisive advantage is that you can wash the paint off again without scrubbing...
This is how I aged the rather clumsy, reflective plastic building facades as a child. I was proud back then of being able to do it without any instructions, before the internet. It was only later that I realised that this method is commonplace in model making and is known as weathering and washing.
As a teenage modeller I was using watercolours to have a go at weathering, getting it to stick on plastic was aways a bit tricky. Acrylics are so easily available now and have similar advantage that they can be washed off. This Citadel Typhus Corrosion is a game changer for rust effects, the texture is very good and it’s easy to work with. Thanks for sharing your tips too, this is the great part of the hobby 😁