Hi Reece, interested in your thought on racing the TE250i. I have a 2016 KTM 350SXF w/Rekluse that I race in local north Texas races (offroad). These are more Hare Scramble type races sometimes a few tight wood sections but mostly open terrain. You mention you have an FE350. How does the TE250i compare. I do very well in amateur class racing but get pretty beat up by the end of a race. I can be lazy with the 4 stroke and even more so with the Rekluse. Thoughts??
I had a FX350 and it was a great bike but for tighter woods stuff and technical riding you can beat the 2 stroke. I like the TX300I better. Better suspension and more of a race bike. Go the 300i if you are going to a 2 stroke
Which is the most fun to ride? This or the FE350?. Got the FE350 2019 3 months ago and only have 20h on it but I find it kind of boring (and I'm a novice to off road bikes). Thinking of making the switch to this one. Opinions?
Because I don't run the clutch lever (its now the back brake) the 250i didn't have quite enough torque sometimes on the big hills. That's the only reason. The 300i has that torque I needed and works perfect. If I ran the clutch lever as the clutch I would have kept the bike
Reece Tasker good to know, thanks for getting back to me. I’m currently eying up a 250i The only thing holding me back now is a slight worry that a 2T might be annoying when riding slowly on green lanes bs a 4T or bigger 300 2T. Hoping to test a few at the Ady Smith centre in Wales
Cool apart from your inccorect science XD the "idle screw" is not really the idle screw it's an air screw and it Will screw up your fuel ratios just go ahead install a lambda and see for yourself..... The thing is Yes sometimes you can increase the idle a little bit but if you need to bump it up more you either need a screw that opens the butterfly or Yes use this but you will have to get the ecu reset in a dealership warm up the bike to 90C coolant temp with battery voltage above 13,8v and the bike will start a reautotune sequence after 7 minutes it will autoadjust the fuel close to an estimated stoichiometric ratio basically you will increase air with the air "idle" screw and the bike will add fuel therefore more mixture =more idle.....then you saying you don't need to use choke is not exactly right it isn't even a choke it's the exact opposite it adds air because the bike automatically adds fuel and because it doesn't have an air stepper motor control system the only way it can have more air is you manually giving it by pulling out what you call the "choke" if you don't you risk blowing your spark plug or just fouling it.....
You are kinda right but mostly wrong. The air screw is there to create a circuit around the butterfly at idle. If you look in the manual it is called the idle screw. Turning it out does exactly what the manufacturer designed it to do----- bypass air so it idles. Screwing it out does not, and cannot change the mixture.....all the air that enters the engine comes through the same hole!!!! this is simply common sense!. I am on my 3rd TPI and each one has run perfectly, I have adjusted the screw out to raise the idle on all of them and its worked perfectly as the factory designed it. If and only if the air for the air screw came in from outside the throttle body (like a hole in the side) could it change the fuel ratio and even then it probably wouldn't make enough of a difference to matter. And once the throttle is even slightly open the air screw circuit is not used as air will take the path of least resistance (like it will suck through the big hole not some tiny hole) so you are right to call it a air screw, and it was put there to adjust the idle and it does that very well. If you need more idle speed than that then there is something wrong with your bike.......and I am on my 3rd and they have all run perfectly, my friends run perfectly and Trystan Hart who trains at my place has had about 7 of them and they all run perfectly .......
Thanks for your review I enjoyed watching.So you don’t use a manual clutch at all? Just curious how that would work and am interested in using the clutch master cylinder for the rear break.
Hi Reece, interested in your thought on racing the TE250i. I have a 2016 KTM 350SXF w/Rekluse that I race in local north Texas races (offroad). These are more Hare Scramble type races sometimes a few tight wood sections but mostly open terrain. You mention you have an FE350. How does the TE250i compare. I do very well in amateur class racing but get pretty beat up by the end of a race. I can be lazy with the 4 stroke and even more so with the Rekluse. Thoughts??
I had a FX350 and it was a great bike but for tighter woods stuff and technical riding you can beat the 2 stroke. I like the TX300I better. Better suspension and more of a race bike. Go the 300i if you are going to a 2 stroke
Which is the most fun to ride? This or the FE350?. Got the FE350 2019 3 months ago and only have 20h on it but I find it kind of boring (and I'm a novice to off road bikes). Thinking of making the switch to this one. Opinions?
I changed up the 250i for the 300i for more torque. I prefer the 300i over any bike I have ever owned
Yeah! I read your previous comment! I'll swap my FE for the TE250 :) Thanks!
What was the reason for changing to the 300i?
Because I don't run the clutch lever (its now the back brake) the 250i didn't have quite enough torque sometimes on the big hills. That's the only reason. The 300i has that torque I needed and works perfect. If I ran the clutch lever as the clutch I would have kept the bike
Reece Tasker good to know, thanks for getting back to me. I’m currently eying up a 250i The only thing holding me back now is a slight worry that a 2T might be annoying when riding slowly on green lanes bs a 4T or bigger 300 2T. Hoping to test a few at the Ady Smith centre in Wales
If you run the turbine core 2 silencer or similar it will be fine. Engina's are counter balanced too so really smooth
Cool apart from your inccorect science XD the "idle screw" is not really the idle screw it's an air screw and it Will screw up your fuel ratios just go ahead install a lambda and see for yourself..... The thing is Yes sometimes you can increase the idle a little bit but if you need to bump it up more you either need a screw that opens the butterfly or Yes use this but you will have to get the ecu reset in a dealership warm up the bike to 90C coolant temp with battery voltage above 13,8v and the bike will start a reautotune sequence after 7 minutes it will autoadjust the fuel close to an estimated stoichiometric ratio basically you will increase air with the air "idle" screw and the bike will add fuel therefore more mixture =more idle.....then you saying you don't need to use choke is not exactly right it isn't even a choke it's the exact opposite it adds air because the bike automatically adds fuel and because it doesn't have an air stepper motor control system the only way it can have more air is you manually giving it by pulling out what you call the "choke" if you don't you risk blowing your spark plug or just fouling it.....
You are kinda right but mostly wrong. The air screw is there to create a circuit around the butterfly at idle. If you look in the manual it is called the idle screw. Turning it out does exactly what the manufacturer designed it to do----- bypass air so it idles. Screwing it out does not, and cannot change the mixture.....all the air that enters the engine comes through the same hole!!!! this is simply common sense!. I am on my 3rd TPI and each one has run perfectly, I have adjusted the screw out to raise the idle on all of them and its worked perfectly as the factory designed it. If and only if the air for the air screw came in from outside the throttle body (like a hole in the side) could it change the fuel ratio and even then it probably wouldn't make enough of a difference to matter. And once the throttle is even slightly open the air screw circuit is not used as air will take the path of least resistance (like it will suck through the big hole not some tiny hole) so you are right to call it a air screw, and it was put there to adjust the idle and it does that very well. If you need more idle speed than that then there is something wrong with your bike.......and I am on my 3rd and they have all run perfectly, my friends run perfectly and Trystan Hart who trains at my place has had about 7 of them and they all run perfectly .......
Thanks for your review I enjoyed watching.So you don’t use a manual clutch at all? Just curious how that would work and am interested in using the clutch master cylinder for the rear break.
James Bramblett that's correct. I run a line from the clutch master to the rear brake. I blank off the rekluse adjustable clutch slave