Nice job. Not having an ultrasonic cleaner, I have soaked in old antifreeze in an old crock pot for a week or so. Heated is good. Lately I just dunk the whole engine in Dawn Ultra for a week or so. On an engine like this (no ball bearings), once free, you can just mount it and run it for a while. I use a covering heat gun for heating up the parts, as at 220-degrees, it can’t get so hot as to damage parts. Also for drying out ball bearings before loading them with oil. One caution on the antifreeze, it is flammable. Also, you do not want to use that old crock pot for food any more!
Hello, my friend. I have an O.S. Max III 15 R.C. engine I purchased at the Kadena AFB hobby shop while I was stationed in Okinawa in 1967. I paid $9.05 for it way back then. It's never been out of the box except to look at. In my 30s I had plans to build an aircraft to mount it on, but never got around to do it. In my 50s I was busy as well. In my 60s I was building mandolins and playing music, but I still have templates for aircraft wing ribs, so maybe some day..... Enjoy watching this Aussie bloke machine out the Titan .60 engine series, and your rebuild. Cheers and regards. Bob
Nice rebuild, thanks for sharing. I used to use Enya's back in the seventies and found them difficult on initial start up from new but great when run-in. Later moved on to the larger Fox engines which I am thinking of pulling out to display in a cabinet so this video will be helpful.
Piston and sleeve, don't try to remove all of the brown varnish from inside the sleeve and outside of piston. This is from castor oil. It builds up more as the piston and sleeve wear, actually helping to keep a good clearance. On an older well run engine removing all the varnish could cause a loss of compression. Also, on the sleeve, the higher port is the exhaust side, the lower port is the intake side.
Glow fuel has methonol, an alcohol, which draws moisture from the air. It also contains Nitromethane, and that combines with the water to form a weak nitric acid, which is what corrodes bearings, iron pistons and sleeves. Best practice, after last run of the day, run all the fuel out of the engine. Try to restart, keep trying to restart until there is no popping at all. This is the same as you do with an outboard motor on a boat. Once all the fuel is exhausted, inject some oil, best is Marvel Mystery Oil or Marvel Air Tool Oil, into the intake and exhaust ports, turn the engine over to spread the oil. Next time you want to use it, remove the glow plug, spin it over to get any excess oil out to prevent hydraulic lock when starting. Put the plug back in, start as normal. Do not use 3-in-1 Oil. The kerosene in it evaporates leaving a gooey thick residue that eventually solidifies. Best storage oil is the Marvel.
That little engine probably was in 50 or more models over its life... I had a K&B .40 that broke when I struck the ground at a hundred miles an hour and that one engine was in at least 2 dozen airplanes.
I see this video is 4 years old but my engine has very similar markings 14:35, so I thought it was worth commenting. On mine the 'dremmel mark' has been caused by a metal fuel bung at the end of the filler hose, rubbing during flight. It's not a good idea as metal clanking as it can cause radio issues. It now has a plastic bung.
Exactly; sometimes that is enough to get an old engine started. A little soak, rotate and flush (out). It even helps clean the outside of the crudded up dry oil. Great comment Sam.
Guys I need some help.I've got an Enya 09 but something is different about the muffler.it has a triangular groove in it were the muffler joins the engine.how is this going to work without the pressure nipple that helps pump the fuel.my father recently passed away so I have no one to ask.any help would be great.
Update:stupidly I had the wrong muffler.I found the right one but the sleeve that holds it on was missing.but after much messing around I made a new one, then discovered the threads r imperial,as the engine was built in the 60's.it's been a nightmare.I think I'm gonna stick with electric.
I used LA totally awesome cleaner from Dollar tree in a ultrasonic cleaner. Purple power or amazing orange may work the same but I have not tried those yet
Ultrasonic cleaner with LAs totally awesome cleaner from Dollar Tree. then quick water bath to clean off residual cleaner and then warm 3 in 1 oil bath to prevent rust on iron parts. here is a video of OS 40 Rebuild: ruclips.net/video/68Sihduag34/видео.html
@@michaelsmutnick what’s the best cleaner liquid which can be used in ultrasonic cleaner?? Which ones do you recommend? I am new to this hence asking too many questions ☺️☺️☺️
Excellent restoration video. However the so-called crossflow engines (ridge on piston) are not in the same league as the SS (Schnuerle scavenge) Enya engines that came later. Having tried to fly a crossflow engine It seems that, in pursuit of power, they ended up using fairly extreme port timing with the result that if they drop out of their power band it can be a devil of a job to get them back in. Not ideal for rc. The SS engines give a lot more power and throttle much better.
That has to be the one of the worsed strip down I've seen mate just dumping screws, useing multi grips to pull off carb, wow, if you are stripping down at least use a small containers to put in small parts??
Nice job. Not having an ultrasonic cleaner, I have soaked in old antifreeze in an old crock pot for a week or so. Heated is good. Lately I just dunk the whole engine in Dawn Ultra for a week or so. On an engine like this (no ball bearings), once free, you can just mount it and run it for a while. I use a covering heat gun for heating up the parts, as at 220-degrees, it can’t get so hot as to damage parts. Also for drying out ball bearings before loading them with oil. One caution on the antifreeze, it is flammable. Also, you do not want to use that old crock pot for food any more!
Hello, my friend. I have an O.S. Max III 15 R.C. engine I purchased at the Kadena AFB hobby shop while I was stationed in Okinawa in 1967. I paid $9.05 for it way back then. It's never been out of the box except to look at. In my 30s I had plans to build an aircraft to mount it on, but never got around to do it. In my 50s I was busy as well. In my 60s I was building mandolins and playing music, but I still have templates for aircraft wing ribs, so maybe some day..... Enjoy watching this Aussie bloke machine out the Titan .60 engine series, and your rebuild. Cheers and regards. Bob
Enya were very good high quality model engines. Very dependable, long lasting.
Nice rebuild, thanks for sharing. I used to use Enya's back in the seventies and found them difficult on initial start up from new but great when run-in. Later moved on to the larger Fox engines which I am thinking of pulling out to display in a cabinet so this video will be helpful.
40yrs ago my first engine into a line control plane was an ENYA diesel
This i do enjoy, nice one Michael.
Piston and sleeve, don't try to remove all of the brown varnish from inside the sleeve and outside of piston. This is from castor oil. It builds up more as the piston and sleeve wear, actually helping to keep a good clearance. On an older well run engine removing all the varnish could cause a loss of compression. Also, on the sleeve, the higher port is the exhaust side, the lower port is the intake side.
That is really useful information, only acquired from someone who has had many years of experience. Thanks for sharing.
That wot the old guys at my club state too
I have a control line model… it was always way down on power. Started easily, ran smoothly, just way down on power.
Great engine! Hope you get to keep this engine til you get old, like me, and have lots of engines to have with the control lines or r.c.
I have about 10x 15-III that I have to do videos on
The old ignition engines that ran on gasoline rarely have rusty parts when taken apart. Glow motors are frequently very rusty inside.
Glow fuel has methonol, an alcohol, which draws moisture from the air. It also contains Nitromethane, and that combines with the water to form a weak nitric acid, which is what corrodes bearings, iron pistons and sleeves. Best practice, after last run of the day, run all the fuel out of the engine. Try to restart, keep trying to restart until there is no popping at all. This is the same as you do with an outboard motor on a boat. Once all the fuel is exhausted, inject some oil, best is Marvel Mystery Oil or Marvel Air Tool Oil, into the intake and exhaust ports, turn the engine over to spread the oil. Next time you want to use it, remove the glow plug, spin it over to get any excess oil out to prevent hydraulic lock when starting. Put the plug back in, start as normal.
Do not use 3-in-1 Oil. The kerosene in it evaporates leaving a gooey thick residue that eventually solidifies. Best storage oil is the Marvel.
That little engine probably was in 50 or more models over its life... I had a K&B .40 that broke when I struck the ground at a hundred miles an hour and that one engine was in at least 2 dozen airplanes.
I see this video is 4 years old but my engine has very similar markings 14:35, so I thought it was worth commenting.
On mine the 'dremmel mark' has been caused by a metal fuel bung at the end of the filler hose, rubbing during flight.
It's not a good idea as metal clanking as it can cause radio issues. It now has a plastic bung.
My little enya 09 ran well ,.still got it 🥹
Vapor blasting would have been the ticket
Do you ever use an ultrasonic parts cleaner?
Kids used to take these to school in their pockets
You will find that a little glow fuel is far more effective at loosening gunked up parts than 3 in 1
Exactly; sometimes that is enough to get an old engine started. A little soak, rotate and flush (out). It even helps clean the outside of the crudded up dry oil. Great comment Sam.
awesome video buddy! what product did you use to clean the gunk out side the engine? cheers !
La totally awesome cleaner. Same as purple power or amazing orange
Is there no head gasket/washer?
i have one of these if anyone wants it, i got it when i was in middle school in the late 80's
drop me a line @gmail.com
What carb parts did you use to rebuild it?
I used the spray bar with needle assembly from the donor carb. I was able to reuse the original carb body, barrel, and both set screws.
Gr8 vid mate. Wot did U use to clean the parts cheers
Las tottaly awesome cleaner
Don't see the "next video" of it running on your chanel.... ???
Guys I need some help.I've got an Enya 09 but something is different about the muffler.it has a triangular groove in it were the muffler joins the engine.how is this going to work without the pressure nipple that helps pump the fuel.my father recently passed away so I have no one to ask.any help would be great.
Update:stupidly I had the wrong muffler.I found the right one but the sleeve that holds it on was missing.but after much messing around I made a new one, then discovered the threads r imperial,as the engine was built in the 60's.it's been a nightmare.I think I'm gonna stick with electric.
Dont give up. 😉
@@snipereliete Enya were never Imperial
Gee, you can clean it. Lets see if you know how to run it, da
hi! How did you got it so clean!!!!!!!!
I used LA totally awesome cleaner from Dollar tree in a ultrasonic cleaner. Purple power or amazing orange may work the same but I have not tried those yet
Hello
How did ya clean it so well?? I mean did you use some chemicals or??
I have an engine in similar condition O.S size 40.
Plzz help
Ultrasonic cleaner with LAs totally awesome cleaner from Dollar Tree. then quick water bath to clean off residual cleaner and then warm 3 in 1 oil bath to prevent rust on iron parts. here is a video of OS 40 Rebuild: ruclips.net/video/68Sihduag34/видео.html
@@michaelsmutnick what’s the best cleaner liquid which can be used in ultrasonic cleaner?? Which ones do you recommend?
I am new to this hence asking too many questions ☺️☺️☺️
Excellent restoration video. However the so-called crossflow engines (ridge on piston) are not in the same league as the SS (Schnuerle scavenge) Enya engines that came later. Having tried to fly a crossflow engine It seems that, in pursuit of power, they ended up using fairly extreme port timing with the result that if they drop out of their power band it can be a devil of a job to get them back in. Not ideal for rc. The SS engines give a lot more power and throttle much better.
Wait a minute, you go from crusty baked on castor oil to new looking parts in the blink of an eye. How did that happen?
ultrasonic cleaner
Ultra unbelievable
How do I connect fuel tank to this engine
Would have been more helpful if you illustrated how the cleaning of the old engine was.......... done*
Figure out the thread/length of the screws, and replace with socket head screws. Much better.
Enya tends to have non standard metric screws... OS and Saito are much better for use of generic metric cap screws
What? No start up?😫😫
For your Amusement! ruclips.net/video/JwYmwfU43rI/видео.html
Guy wonders if this has been run much...On an engine that takes 6hrs of break in time... and it's covered in castor oil residue.. lol
?
That has to be the one of the worsed strip down I've seen mate just dumping screws, useing multi grips to pull off carb, wow, if you are stripping down at least use a small containers to put in small parts??
You should see me do an engine swap on a Saab! Bolts in one box and piles of gears and what not in another!
@@michaelsmutnick 🤣🤣
Bitte keine Zangen !! für die Schrauben und Muttern. Dafür gibt es Steck- und Maulschlüssel .
It’s not a motor!
Stimmt. Es ist zweifelsfrei ein Lipo-Akku.
Whats with the generic You Tube music? What’s wrong with some AC/DC or Aerosmith? It’s enough to make ya puke!
The video would get copywrited :( and all ad revenue would goto acdc!
The music just sucks! Cannot watch