Your Mega S videos are extremely helpful as I have two, so thanks for keeping them going. I do recommend them for being good starter printers out of the box.
Hi jj, quick question, since doing this conversation I have noticed my hot end fan is always on ( it used to be off when printer was switched on, then auto switched on as the hot end reached 60 degrees ) on the old trigorilla board. Have i missed something, or is this now normal behaviour?
Just a heads up for people: don't get racheting crimpers for jst-xh or Dupont or any similar crimps. They are much more difficult to use then the spring loaded non-racheting ones
I'm considering this board for my Anycubic Mega X. I am assuming based on the fact that you removed the front touch screen, that when using Klipper, that front touch screen becomes something that is no longer necessary? If that is true, would it then be useful to get an HDMI based touch screen for the Pi 4?
I really loved how this vid began and I Have been struggling for a while now trying to understand the wiring. I bought a e3 v3 mini but I am having a lot of trouble with the wiring but I would have loved to see how you wire it up instead of just showing the diagrams. For example the splicing of the ground wire - why splicing? How to connect it afterwards? For example the HUB cable has 2 z-end-switches but where would the second limitswitch be connected (D42) and the TFT screen is it compatible or not? I would greatly appreciate some help with this as I'm struggling to understand how I should wire some stuff up...especially since everything goes to another adapter board
Where that filament runout sensor is positioned it's essentially worthless. Every time my filament has broken it's been between the sensor and the machine, so it didn't trigger anyway. You don't actually need to jam anything in there, if you start the print with it empty it just ignores it.
Would it be possible to get a picture of your wiring configuration? Was having massive problems with my mega and it was apart and I stupidly didn't have everything labeled since it was supposed to be a quick fix. 3 months later, new board, hot end, ect ect... I'm a bit lost now lmao.
I would also like to see a picture of your wiring. I think I've got my i3 mega wired properly (as nothing blew up when I turned it on) but I'm still having issues with it.
Hey JJ awesome vid! This has been a great reference for me when rebuilding my i3 mega around the SKR 3. One question, what Hotend are you using? The last and only issue I'm having is running my stock 12v Hotend, even with a stepdown regulator.
I think the MOSFET for Heater0 is toast and I'm trying to configure Klipper for Heater1 output. For some reason I can't get it to work using pin PL4 in my config file. Any suggestions where I can get a good pin mapping? Would this upgrade be a better spend rather than upgrading the MOSFETS to external?
On the Trigorilla board it should be PL4 for Heater1. For the pin mapping I use this: docs.arduino.cc/static/ed4d33b86bac66d54959fbb186795a11/54c3a/PinMap2560big_Rev2.png and: user-images.githubusercontent.com/3864712/76686181-ecb93e00-6619-11ea-8255-a60dd31f4e53.png It is a little confusing having to use both at the same time. I'm not sure why that wouldn't work for you. As far as if this is worth it, I think it depends on how many problems stack up with the Trigorilla. I was finally fed up with making more work arounds for this board, and wanted to try some of the newer features. I was about to buy an SKR Pico or SKR Mini before they sent this one over. I think I waited too long and I'm so happy with the new board.
@@JJShankles HI JJ, my skr3 ez blows the 10a fuse when the black and red Heater0 cables are connected to the E0 + - , even used different lead, everything else is fine, not sure what to do next tbh.
Hey great video man! Definitely learned some stuff and gave me a better direction for my project. I’m strongly considering putting the SKR 3 into a Anycubic Kobra (the first model with the DD). I’ve already added a second z rod and Motor and have changed some of the Marlin firmware. From your experience, do you think think this will be doable on a kobra? I know it’s a different printer than your mega s, but since the SKR 3 is geared towards DIYers, it should work right? Obviously gonna throw klipper and a new screen on their also.
I'm doing this for a chiron. Since mine will run klipper and have this new board, will every wire go to a respective place on the board (stepper, fan, t0, endstops, etc.) and no need for any of those other anycubic boards, like the one mentioned at 14:45? (seems like an obvious answer to me, but every time i think something is straightforward on 3d printing, i get proven dead wrong)
Yes that should be simpler if it doesn't have that annoying add on board. You will probably need to do some wire crimping, but that's always a good still to have.
@@JJShankles , I may solve this by just plug and playing before you respond, but since you use the no sensor for z-endstops, can you tell me where you'd hook up the Z-stops, left & right? Obviously one goes in the z-stop area, but does the other just need to have a +5v, pin, and ground and just update that in the firmware config? If so, could i just put it behind the z-stop in the pwrdet area?
@@JJShankles Hi, i made skr3 upgrade but not finish yet. I saw your printer config you have description your drivers 2208 but i use 2209, can i just simpli rewrite? And another question, i use 24v power supply, i must do some changes in your config? I change fans and hotend heater to 24v but i dont know if i need change something in config. I never used klipper before only stock firmware in i3 mega.
Usually around 150mm/s keeps quality high and failures to a minimum, but I haven't really tried pushing it in a while. I'll need to do some more speed testing.
Great video, unfortunately I only have bad experience with BTT. My SKR2 was completely killed including 5 TMC 2209. Unfortunately, the support is not able to change the board. Is only 4 months old. TMC stepper_x (y,z,z1,extruder) failed to init: Unable to read tmc uart 'stepper_x' register
Well i installed new fans and step motors on my anycubic mega s. Followed the instructions. Now my printer aint working . makes odd noises when i go to print. downloaded firmware through cura. On the info screen on My printer it says firmware v1.10. Not sure now what to do. When I installed marlin with reversed plug ins. seems nothing helps. also when it goes to print. it seems like it tries to print on the back end almost over the edge.. HELP IM Drowning!!
So I just completed my SKR 3 conversion and I have been fighting a Z offset issue for a few days. No matter how many times I run the auto level I can’t seem to get a truly level initial layer. First layer is about twice as thick on one side of the bed as the other. I can see the z screws working as the print is running so I know it is trying to use the bed mesh. I’m missing something. I just got to thinking today that I’m not looking at either of the physical z limit switches. Therefore if I accidentally bump one of the z steppers when the power is off I’m going to create a mismatched z offset. Is there a way to get the SKR 3 to test for level between the z motors?
You could wire up both of the Z axis and set them as the z limit switches in the config file. I chose to instead just use a block of wood to make sure they are close the the same height, and if the mesh bed level turns up slanted then I turn one of the lead screws to make the mesh as level as possible.
@@JJShankles I think I’m going to try and mount those z limits at the top of the frame and create a macro to drive them up and self level. Regardless I’m still not getting level first layers. I am absolutely frustrated. It just seems like Klipper is ignoring my bed mesh ever since I converted to SKR.
Hey man im having some trouble hwre figuring out what to do to get the screen to work with my skr 3 how do you tap into the ribbon cable or can i just plug the into the tft port on the skr3 and abbandon the ribbon from the sd slot?
Super helpful video! Since you are using a 12v power supply even though the board is rated to output 24v, does it actually just output 12v instead? Essentially, do you wire it as normal and not have to swap out the hot end, heated bed, and fans to 24v since the power supply is 12v? I'm confused how to use this board with a 12v 3D printer.
I don't know how to configure the SKR board with only 1 z endstop to accept both stock z endstops and to control each motor. I' using an SKR mini E3 V2. I see you are just using a BL touch, so if i save the headache and go that route, how do you ensure your gantry is trammed?
hey everyone i need help my trigorilla board dc regulator blown up so had to buy a new board and decided to go with the skr mini e3 v3.0..... but the wiring is a bit different from one to another.... my issue are 1.from the hub board the hub connection to the skr 2.the y axes endswitch of my anycubic has 3 pin and connector of skr 2 wich wire or do i connect it somewhere else instead 3. i have dual z stepper driver so for my firmware the zbm wich pins do i have to use.... 4. also have dual z endswitch so where do i connect my second endswitch ? i think this is mostly it please help
You keep solving problems for me. 2 fan mosfets are burned out on my Mega's board, and I was wondering whether to order mosfets and try to do SMD repair or just order a new board.
I've never had much success repairing SMD parts with home diy equipment. And almost any control board will be better than the stock Trigorilla. It was an undertaking to swap it out, but I'm so glad a swapped it now.
Yes the mini v3 would work. I would only use MOSFETs if I wanted 24v for the bed and hotend, but in that case I would just install a 24v power supply and switch everything to 24v instead of using MOSFETs
Your Mega S videos are extremely helpful as I have two, so thanks for keeping them going. I do recommend them for being good starter printers out of the box.
This video been a great guide. I brought the SKR 3 EZ for the Kobra 2 Plus & this video definitely helped me. Awesome Vid
Hi jj, quick question, since doing this conversation I have noticed my hot end fan is always on ( it used to be off when printer was switched on, then auto switched on as the hot end reached 60 degrees ) on the old trigorilla board. Have i missed something, or is this now normal behaviour?
Just a heads up for people: don't get racheting crimpers for jst-xh or Dupont or any similar crimps. They are much more difficult to use then the spring loaded non-racheting ones
So true!! I struggled way too long with rachet crimpers, and I am so glad I moved past them now!
@@JJShankles which ones are your favorite?
any amazon links?
Don’t know when this was released but type c with a 90° would be perfect
I'm considering this board for my Anycubic Mega X. I am assuming based on the fact that you removed the front touch screen, that when using Klipper, that front touch screen becomes something that is no longer necessary? If that is true, would it then be useful to get an HDMI based touch screen for the Pi 4?
I really loved how this vid began and I Have been struggling for a while now trying to understand the wiring. I bought a e3 v3 mini but I am having a lot of trouble with the wiring but I would have loved to see how you wire it up instead of just showing the diagrams. For example the splicing of the ground wire - why splicing? How to connect it afterwards? For example the HUB cable has 2 z-end-switches but where would the second limitswitch be connected (D42) and the TFT screen is it compatible or not? I would greatly appreciate some help with this as I'm struggling to understand how I should wire some stuff up...especially since everything goes to another adapter board
Where that filament runout sensor is positioned it's essentially worthless. Every time my filament has broken it's been between the sensor and the machine, so it didn't trigger anyway. You don't actually need to jam anything in there, if you start the print with it empty it just ignores it.
Oh that's good to know. I had almost forgotten it was there when I was doing this upgrade.
Would it be possible to get a picture of your wiring configuration? Was having massive problems with my mega and it was apart and I stupidly didn't have everything labeled since it was supposed to be a quick fix. 3 months later, new board, hot end, ect ect... I'm a bit lost now lmao.
I would also like to see a picture of your wiring. I think I've got my i3 mega wired properly (as nothing blew up when I turned it on) but I'm still having issues with it.
Yeah, that would be great!
i agrre it would be so helpful
This video is amazing ! Gracias por tu ayuda, parece que podre revivir mi Mega estropeada. Si gustan le ire contando
Hey JJ awesome vid! This has been a great reference for me when rebuilding my i3 mega around the SKR 3. One question, what Hotend are you using? The last and only issue I'm having is running my stock 12v Hotend, even with a stepdown regulator.
Is it possible to still use the touch screen with a new mainboard or does it have something proprietary that prevents that from working?
The screen is proprietary so it will only work with the stock board running Marlin firmware
I think the MOSFET for Heater0 is toast and I'm trying to configure Klipper for Heater1 output. For some reason I can't get it to work using pin PL4 in my config file. Any suggestions where I can get a good pin mapping?
Would this upgrade be a better spend rather than upgrading the MOSFETS to external?
On the Trigorilla board it should be PL4 for Heater1. For the pin mapping I use this: docs.arduino.cc/static/ed4d33b86bac66d54959fbb186795a11/54c3a/PinMap2560big_Rev2.png
and: user-images.githubusercontent.com/3864712/76686181-ecb93e00-6619-11ea-8255-a60dd31f4e53.png
It is a little confusing having to use both at the same time. I'm not sure why that wouldn't work for you.
As far as if this is worth it, I think it depends on how many problems stack up with the Trigorilla. I was finally fed up with making more work arounds for this board, and wanted to try some of the newer features. I was about to buy an SKR Pico or SKR Mini before they sent this one over. I think I waited too long and I'm so happy with the new board.
@@JJShankles HI JJ, my skr3 ez blows the 10a fuse when the black and red Heater0 cables are connected to the E0 + - , even used different lead, everything else is fine, not sure what to do next tbh.
Hey great video man! Definitely learned some stuff and gave me a better direction for my project. I’m strongly considering putting the SKR 3 into a Anycubic Kobra (the first model with the DD). I’ve already added a second z rod and Motor and have changed some of the Marlin firmware.
From your experience, do you think think this will be doable on a kobra? I know it’s a different printer than your mega s, but since the SKR 3 is geared towards DIYers, it should work right? Obviously gonna throw klipper and a new screen on their also.
Hello JJ,
Please, tell me what configuration you used for the steppers (jumper under the steppers)?
Did you keep the 4 ?
I'm doing this for a chiron. Since mine will run klipper and have this new board, will every wire go to a respective place on the board (stepper, fan, t0, endstops, etc.) and no need for any of those other anycubic boards, like the one mentioned at 14:45? (seems like an obvious answer to me, but every time i think something is straightforward on 3d printing, i get proven dead wrong)
Yes that should be simpler if it doesn't have that annoying add on board. You will probably need to do some wire crimping, but that's always a good still to have.
@@JJShankles , I may solve this by just plug and playing before you respond, but since you use the no sensor for z-endstops, can you tell me where you'd hook up the Z-stops, left & right? Obviously one goes in the z-stop area, but does the other just need to have a +5v, pin, and ground and just update that in the firmware config?
If so, could i just put it behind the z-stop in the pwrdet area?
I am little confused, how I can save my config from my stock i3 mega firmware?
The stock firmware is running Marlin, so it doesn't have the same kind of config file that Klipper uses.
@@JJShankles ok thank you 😉. I must make my own config for klipper and make all settings new? 🤔 I mean is too hard for me 🤣.
@@ivanhrozny3370 Or you can start with one someone has already made. I have some linked in the video description
@@JJShankles Hi, i made skr3 upgrade but not finish yet. I saw your printer config you have description your drivers 2208 but i use 2209, can i just simpli rewrite? And another question, i use 24v power supply, i must do some changes in your config? I change fans and hotend heater to 24v but i dont know if i need change something in config. I never used klipper before only stock firmware in i3 mega.
Hi, I have a big problem on the wiring, where I should to place the three cables of the X_MAX_PIN???
Hi, what is the highest print speed you achieved after all these upgrades without loosing the quality much?. Let's say we stick with 0.2mm height.
Usually around 150mm/s keeps quality high and failures to a minimum, but I haven't really tried pushing it in a while. I'll need to do some more speed testing.
Great video, unfortunately I only have bad experience with BTT. My SKR2 was completely killed including 5 TMC 2209. Unfortunately, the support is not able to change the board. Is only 4 months old. TMC stepper_x (y,z,z1,extruder) failed to init: Unable to read tmc uart 'stepper_x' register
Well i installed new fans and step motors on my anycubic mega s. Followed the instructions. Now my printer aint working . makes odd noises when i go to print.
downloaded firmware through cura. On the info screen on My printer it says firmware v1.10. Not sure now what to do. When I installed marlin with reversed plug ins. seems nothing helps.
also when it goes to print. it seems like it tries to print on the back end almost over the edge.. HELP IM Drowning!!
Good work! But why you don't show in zoom your wiring?
So I just completed my SKR 3 conversion and I have been fighting a Z offset issue for a few days. No matter how many times I run the auto level I can’t seem to get a truly level initial layer. First layer is about twice as thick on one side of the bed as the other. I can see the z screws working as the print is running so I know it is trying to use the bed mesh. I’m missing something. I just got to thinking today that I’m not looking at either of the physical z limit switches. Therefore if I accidentally bump one of the z steppers when the power is off I’m going to create a mismatched z offset.
Is there a way to get the SKR 3 to test for level between the z motors?
You could wire up both of the Z axis and set them as the z limit switches in the config file. I chose to instead just use a block of wood to make sure they are close the the same height, and if the mesh bed level turns up slanted then I turn one of the lead screws to make the mesh as level as possible.
@@JJShankles I think I’m going to try and mount those z limits at the top of the frame and create a macro to drive them up and self level.
Regardless I’m still not getting level first layers. I am absolutely frustrated. It just seems like Klipper is ignoring my bed mesh ever since I converted to SKR.
Hey man im having some trouble hwre figuring out what to do to get the screen to work with my skr 3 how do you tap into the ribbon cable or can i just plug the into the tft port on the skr3 and abbandon the ribbon from the sd slot?
Hi, what i need all for the upgrade ? Original Dispay now fit to new board same the Anycubic break out board for hot end etc.
Super helpful video! Since you are using a 12v power supply even though the board is rated to output 24v, does it actually just output 12v instead? Essentially, do you wire it as normal and not have to swap out the hot end, heated bed, and fans to 24v since the power supply is 12v? I'm confused how to use this board with a 12v 3D printer.
Also, I noticed you removed the mosfets that regulated power for the bed. Why did you do this and how did you know it was okay to do?
JJ Shankles I have a trigorilla pro and i3 mega- hub v2.0 I am struggling to find resources is there any way to help
I don't know how to configure the SKR board with only 1 z endstop to accept both stock z endstops and to control each motor. I' using an SKR mini E3 V2. I see you are just using a BL touch, so if i save the headache and go that route, how do you ensure your gantry is trammed?
You mean your 3d printer actually works and produces some sort of solid prints? I'm shocked, as far as I'm concerned it's all bullshit.
hey everyone i need help my trigorilla board dc regulator blown up so had to buy a new board and decided to go with the skr mini e3 v3.0..... but the wiring is a bit different from one to another.... my issue are
1.from the hub board the hub connection to the skr
2.the y axes endswitch of my anycubic has 3 pin and connector of skr 2 wich wire or do i connect it somewhere else instead
3. i have dual z stepper driver so for my firmware the zbm wich pins do i have to use....
4. also have dual z endswitch so where do i connect my second endswitch ?
i think this is mostly it please help
Hey JJ there seem to be video overlap at 14:25
Yes, I noticed it after I uploaded it. I edited it out with the built in RUclips tool, but it takes a while to process it out.
You keep solving problems for me. 2 fan mosfets are burned out on my Mega's board, and I was wondering whether to order mosfets and try to do SMD repair or just order a new board.
I've never had much success repairing SMD parts with home diy equipment. And almost any control board will be better than the stock Trigorilla. It was an undertaking to swap it out, but I'm so glad a swapped it now.
It makes no sense to run Klipper on this board. Marlin & Reprap would be dope!
Does the skr mini v3 work? You don't use mosfets for the bed and hotend?
Yes the mini v3 would work. I would only use MOSFETs if I wanted 24v for the bed and hotend, but in that case I would just install a 24v power supply and switch everything to 24v instead of using MOSFETs
@@JJShankles I use mosfets to protect the control boards from going Kapoof! After prolonged bed heating,etc