This Joist Will RUIN Our Flooring.. We Have to Fix It NOW
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- Опубликовано: 17 янв 2024
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Hey Gang! Good to see ya! We're back today with what is the LAST framing video we'll be filming on this project. Everything from this point on is massive forward progress. Thanks for being patient with us as we figure out the building process, order of operations and all of that. We've come so far but still have so far to go!
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Paul asking uncomfortable fireside questions is my new favorite bit.
Paul you hit the nail on the head about it being a blessing in disguise taking so long and letting the lumber dry out. One of the big problems these days is houses getting done so fast the lumber is still wet when drywall goes up. It causes tons of cracks, and nail pops. The builders don't care, it's all about get it done and get paid.
Plus, the wood now is fast growth so it's very unstable. I remember when I renovated my bathroom in my house in IL, it was built in the 50's. The studs' growth rings were very tight. Back then, they built houses one at a time, not 20. My neighbor told me his house was the first one on the block, then they filled in over time, over years. You could tell by the architecture of each house. It was open prairie before they built houses on the land.
I also watch Japanese home building videos, they use Japanese Cyprus and it's a stable, gorgeous species of wood. Those old houses are 100 years old, plus no fasteners to speak of other than wooden pins. The joinery is impeccable.
Yeah we see drywall cracks all the time in new homes around here. Tray ceilings are the worst areas.
Details like this are what set apart new homes built by neighborhood builders, and high end custom home builders. Worth the effort!
Previously, when I framed houses, spots like this we would remove the fasteners from the plywood and plane down the subfloor at the high spot. Might be something to think about if you encounter any other areas of concern. Keep up the great work!
Think that section was captured under outside wall framing
just cut back from the exterior wall framing and add blocking easy @@mikeclarke3005
I'm new to your channel. I'm a framer by trade. I'm now superintendent. I really enjoy the light humor and seriousness to the job. I'm a fan and originally from DFW.
really enjoying the "you guys watch any football" bits thrown in there. keep up the good work!
Wouldn't it have been easier to rip up the plywood flooring and plane the 2x12?
they would also have to shim / fir the bottom.
Paul, My father was a General contractor back in the late 1970s and he thought me that if a floor joist humps, put a relief cut in it as you did, he would do the same with a come-along, but then drive a wedge into the cut until there was a small amount of slack in the come-along cable and wedge in between the floor sheeting, cut everything off flush. Then take a piece of galvanized sheet metal and make a saddle that wraps the cut area and drill 6 holes on each side to accept short nails, And of course, now I bet Simpson ties make something like that but this was old school, he never liked nailing any flooring or roofing sheeting he aways screwed it all with every spot on jousts having a bead of construction adhesive. He never had squeaking floors or stairs in any of his houses, in fact, he would fire guys for nailing not screwing any sheeting down. and he loved to use the old-school test of the marble. :) If it rolled, do it over until it stayed put.
I had a friend that built a spec house back in the eighties. He accepted an offer with a provision that he remove a dip that revealed itself in the entrance foyer floor. He attempted to get rid of the dip by jacking up the offending floor joist; using the same method you used only pushing not pulling. Having used adhesive on all his joists and the same with the finished wood floor, he failed to flatten the floor but instead racked the house! Nearly every door and window in the house became stuck. You were wise to deal with the problem early in the process!
You really should move your internet modem and firewall to your utility/electrical room along with your POE (Power Over Ethernet) switch so all your network wiring terminates in one easy to access place. For WI-Fi, install one or more centrally located ceiling or wall mounted POE WI-Fi access points. They look like smoke detectors so they are aesthetically pleasing. With cloud management, its easy to install, setup, and maintain. By using POE devices, all you need is a Cat6a network cable where ever you want to install the Wi-Fi access point and run it back to your POE switch in the utility room.
Agree the biggest concern is getting all of the wiring run before the foam and dry wall.
Bad advice. The electrical room tends to be the focal point for a lot of AC wiring. So a very EM noisy environment. A general utility room also tend to end up containing a lot of stuff that produces heat as a byproduct. So again not ideal. As for mesh networking yes you can do it, but shelling out a bunch for a dedicated mesh system might be very overkill if all you need right now is a router. Better to use something like an Asus router and then just extend the network later on with another router and their AiMesh feature. Buying say a ubiquity system just for a small garage with a second story apartment is overkill.
Also ask any IT professional and they will tell you any system that depends on the cloud is an unneeded security risk. Not to mention there are plenty of cases where the provider replaces some major cloud component rendering your client devices useless a few years after you bought them. Better to buy a mesh system that either works as a distributed system, by turning one of your devices into a control unit for the others or in a worst case something that has a dedicated master box which controls all the mesh nodes. The latter is more vulnerable since the master is not interchangeable with all you other devices.
@aBoogivogi I bed to differ. The utility room is for a house, not a factory. Unfortunately,
most networking equipment (switches, routers, access points, mesh devices, and so on) are now using cloud management. It's almost unavoidable. As for security of the cloud, well, that's for another discussion. There are methods, like 2FA, that improve security of the cloud portal. We have to work with what is being offered to us. There are still non-cloud based devices available but they are becoming obsolete real fast. The electrical room in a home should not be a significant source for Electrical Magnetic Interference to be concerned with. Your home appliances will gernerate more EMI than the circuit breaker panel will. The nature of network cabling (with its twisted pair wiring) is virtually immune to EMI. As for heat byproducts, I doubt that their utility room will be equipped with such equipment. My general rule is if your comfortable, the equipment is comfortable. A mesh system is definitely an option. But having installed a lot of access points both in homes and businesses, I feel POE powered access points are superior to mesh networks.
You started this series in over 100 degree weather, and now you are working in almost 0 degree conditions. Working in PA, I can relate 😭
@@ElonMuskll the earth is flat anyways
@ElonMuskll just the opposite, the weather is getting back close to what it was 50 years ago this time of year...finally its getting back to what it was when I was kid.
Alberta says hold my beer.
In Ohio, I can relate!
Hey, Ohio here🤣✋
This one is gold. A framer on one of our last jobs was using a track saw to cut the crowns out of some framing material because they were so bad. I say it was worth it.
Your attention to detail is what all contractors should have.
Honestly surprised you guys didn't do a metal roof. Matt Risinger is always talking about them and has me convinced for my next house.
I had a beautiful metal roof on my old house. It was great...... but horrible reception. Wouldn't do that again.
Metal roofs are awesome, but they will destroy your cell and radio reception of any kind inside the building, especially if you also have metal siding on the walls.
The Stud Pack crew has come full circle in terms of extreme temperatures while building the dream house.
As a techie, thank you for not making the box smaller, and instead doing as you did and bringing the wall out further! You might want to consider making hidden in-wall cabinets on one side or the other because of that depth, it'd be a great place to store toilet paper, towels, cans, a whole variety of things!
It seem like it was just days ago you were melting in the Texas summer heat!
I'm 72 and am building a house essentially by myself (for my rancher daughter and son-in-law and their 3 girls) at a pace (not speedy lol) and with experiences that are in lock-step with your video series. While you were framing your floor with dimensional lumber, I was installing I-joists and wondering why the heck you weren't using them, considering everything else about your build is 'the latest and greatest'? Oh well, love the show and congratulate you on the exceptional growth of the channel. GK
Probably cost
Kudos to you for taking on a building project like that at 72. I'm the same age. Last summer I took on a bathroom remodel. This year it's a kitchen remodel. Minimal help. Just don't get in a rush. Think things through before you start doing. It's okay to stop and rethink. Good luck!!
I joists are some of the most dangerous framing. If they get wet or you have a house fire, you can kiss the house, your belongings, and your life-goodbye.
@@bigdreamsonsmallacres I like open web joists the best. But they are pricey. Built my cabin with them. They sure makes running wire and pipe easy.
@@mikewatson4644 Got to lockup & electrical RO in early November, then shut down for a northern Saskatchewan winter. Have to admit, body still aching...GK
That’s an awesome media box, not sure what your plan is regarding covering it up or putting a door on it but make sure there is some sort of ventilation as all the tech in there will need to breath 👍🏻
that crown makes truss floors really appealing
Glad the freeze has not wrecked the water heater and manifold again like it did last time in one of the earliest Stud Pack House videos.
The fire barrel huddle!! Welcome to Texas! Don't fret, it's cold here in Florida right now too but no snow or ice! Burrrrr!
@StudPack before the walls are closed in, maybe run a few more strategic flex conduit with pull strings for running additional power, A/V, network, or control wiring?
Yeah i honestly don't get why flex tubing is not more used in the US. Here in Norway it barely adds any cost. We pay about 0.7 $ per foot for pre-pulled flex piping with three 14 AWG leads. Pre-pulled networking cable is more expensive and it's usually worth pulling this in tubing yourself as opposed to buying it off the shelf.
@@aBoogivogi It's becoming a lot more popular in the U.S. Lots of people are requesting it on new builds, if it isn't standard. Little late to the party, but finally getting around to it! lol
I think I would have tried removing the subfloor and using a planer to level that bowed joist.
I apologize if I missed it, I'm not a builder just a watcher, but I thought that stairwell wasn't conditioned space. With that media hub box mounted straight to what is essentially an exterior wall, won't that large uninsulated rectangle radiate heat out of the building? Also, won't that sharp temperature change cause condensation within the media box?
The box is upstairs near Jordan's desk and future bridge I believe.
The stairway is not conditioned but will be insulated and will benefit from the cooling/heating equipment in the garage and upstairs... at least that's what the engineer is telling us.
I feel for you guys. It was minus 30 degrees w/ wind chill here in Indiana. ALL my water lines froze. I went to use the salamander to de-thaw them but someone had stolen the heater. In this extreme cold, they've frozen hard now. Hot water line to tub busted. Cold side of brand new tub faucet busted. Managed to save the toilet this time!! Yay!! As a single mom of 5 kids, renovating this house by myself and without any support, my funds run pretty thin. At least I get paid tomorrow. It's gonna take my whole check to replace everything Again😢 but I'm grateful I'm able to do the work myself and hopefully this will be the last winter without heat!!🙏
Old plumbers trick you can use a 100 watt light bulb near cold pipes especially in cabinets to make a safe way to warm pipes and keep from freezing
@@fredkk79 Just remember to use incandescent bulbs.
Someone had stolen the heater??? I mean, what??
From southwest Indiana here. Anytime at freezing temperatures, leave all faucets dripping water at study pace to help prevent pipes from freezing over, prevent from froze up completely.
DAMN!! That is rough!!
I was one of the IT guys who commented about the media / router location. Thanks for making that cabinet, it really makes me feel better, LOL. Keep up the great work guys and stay warm! Crazy, I live in the eastern WV panhandle/MD area and it's warmer here than down south!!!
You mean the one made out of wood with no ventilation? 😂
@@baxtronx5972 yeah that one! Hopefully they leave it open or put vents in the door
it will have plenty of ventilation ✅ stay tuned
I'm so curious if and how you've been securing all your tools. I haven't heard you mention anything about installing your garage doors but I'd think that would be high on the list, for security and now warmth!
They keep them in a room on the existing building. In one of the previous videos we get a sneak peek of Paul's many tools
Yep, garage door email sent this week. Gotta company willing to drive down and install can't wait!!
You guys need to run cat6 to access points to mount on the ceiling. They are basically wifi antenna that you place around your place so you get full wifi fast coverage. Team up with Ubiquiti Networks! That's how enterprise networks work.
I second ubiquity access points. They are the round ones that look like smoke alarms. Mount on the ceiling or wall.
Yes, please contact a Ubiquiti expert in your area. That's what you need. That "media center" box you created will just overheat. It is NOT what you want for your internet/network cabling. You need a properly vented network rack, hard wired-cat 6 to the locations that require it (ie desk, TV, etc.), and at least one Wifi AP in the middle of the ceiling with possibly a separate AP downstairs for the garage. But, the Ubiquiti expert will get you a detailed proposal... and, they need to start preparing NOW for the house build if you want equipment on hand in time.
@@pfsmith01 100% agree...
I am a 15+ year network & Lead Cyber security archetect here for a fortune 500 fincial firm. At home, I use all Ubiquiti gear because I get a TON of enterprise style features that I demand of my netwwork and if I used old cisco/Juniper/PaloAlto gear, I still need to spend thousands a year in a license key. So Ubiquiti is awesome to have the features I need and no license fees of any kind!
I have a home network that takes up 2 racks and with around 40 servers (virtual in ESXi vCenter) running on 5 HP DL380 G9 servers filled out with 480GB RAM each, 64vCPU (2x 16 core hyperthreaded, so 2x 32 vcore CPUs), 8, 900GB SAS SSD for vSAN, 40Gbps throughput between each server. Running an older HP DL360 G8 as a TrueNas server running 8-900GB SAS SSD for FastCache/Tier storage/De-Dupe tables/meta tables, hooked up to a NetApp Disk Shelf of 26 SAS HDD for a total of 800ish TB of space and all the VM servers and systems run off these drives with a dedicated second network of 20Gbps throughput from each server to the TrueNas server. And my network in my 3800Sqft home has 3 in cieling AP's with 2 Ourdoor AP's (Wifi 6e), and backbone between each switch is a 20Gbps SFP+ with DAC or Fiber back to my UDM-SE and my 1 gig symetric fiber hooks up to my internet port and setup my PPPOE/VLAN for ISP (no stupid ISP modem). (ISP said they are currently upgrading my area to upgrade 1gig Fiber to the Home to up-to 8gbps symetric fiber (1/2.5/5/8gbps packages will be available)). and network devices between HomeAssistant automation server and IoT and such, running just under 600 IPs with multiple VLANs setup and my PoE Ubiquiti cams running on my Ubiquity NVRPRO, and so much more... I think i have an addiction issue with network gear lol
That Cab built is WAY TOO SMALL and all devices in it will overheat. It should be in a small closet type space.
Honestly with all the LED and low voltage stuff around the garage and soon to be home, You should have ALL low voltage and ALL network and ALL COAX, ALL home automation stuff go to a single cabinet and have a small rack for it all to mount. Put an A/C duct in it and an exaughst to pull hot air out. And this way you can patch in the ports you need and your AP's would all come back there for around your new house and garage and any wifi spreads outside.
FINALLY got my Stud Pack fix! Good job guys!
I've never seen a receptacle roughed in with a table saw! I bet very few floors would stand up to the 8' straight edge test. Love it!
A little birdy told me you had A-Plus foaming your job. Joey is the most knowledgeable insulator i have ever known. His foam crews are the best sprayers I have ever seen. Good choice!
We’re excited to spray with Joey!!
Don’t forget those nail plates on both sides for that pvc pipe
Nice fix gentleman. My old boss always said "shit falls slow, so that's how we correct it." He was very patient when it came to jacking things up. Depending on the weight we'd only push for ~1/4"-1/2" per day. The nails need time to pop and wood needs time to settle into its new position before you start adding new blocking and posts. We worked on a lot of old stuff and it's probably my favorite because there's a lot of tricks to it. Worst dips I've seen were over 2" with old 2x6s spanning 18'. Clear spans are light and easy though, it's the main girders that get interesting. Never had to pull anything down lol. Great vids guys.
Thank you for sharing. How many people remember when city and utility workers used to warm themselves around a 55-gallon drum? You all looked like a couple of union workers hanging around a fire and talking sports. Keep the great videos coming, and all the best to you all and your families, and stay warm.
Oops! Nail top plates only over the studs. Electricians hate drilling into nails! I was reminded of this while attaching a top plate last week.
When he started to drill, my first thought was "I sure hope they put all the nails over the studs"
They've actually talked about that very thing, and how important it is for electricians & plumbers. That's why it was such a surprise. They are constantly thinking ahead for other trades.
Too bad it's so cold but now's the time to take that into consideration while building out your place and insulate where needed to prevent freezing damage down the road.
I'm pretty sure the reason to drip faucets in extreme cold is not to prevent the pipes from freezing, but to prevent them from bursting when they freeze. As the ice plug in the pipe expands it puts pressure on the incompressible water in the pipe and that's why the pipe bursts. Opening the faucets means the liquid water can escape and relieve the pressure as the ice plug grows.
That's what I've been advised as a Midwestern homeowner at least.... Luckily my pipes have never frozen thanks to proper insulation, but I always drip them when it's under 10F.
You guys are great! I am always excited when RUclips tells me a new Studpack video is available. At 9:28 in the video, you're crosscutting a wide piece of plywood with the edge against the fence. That's a dangerous move, as the cut piece can get stuck between the blade and fence and will kickback. Please be careful guys, I'd hate to hear someone on the Studpack crew got injured. Keep up the great work, the place is looking amazing.
Glad to see I wasn't the only one that caught that!
I know that's a bad move, crosscut sled in the works. Thanks for reminding me 💪👊
im glad Paul-Paw didn't melt the arm of that fancy jacket he's got on. That burn barrell was roaring!
To be fair, 2x12’s are the biggest typical chunk of dimensional lumber you see on the job. There’s a lot to shrink and warp there. The only thing worse are those wet noodles- deck railing spindles!
Made a mistake, no one is complaining you are just getting it fixed, just getting it done, nice.
My great grandfather was an organ builder🎹 from Oldenburg, would love to visit sometime! Thanks for the support 👍💪
Hello. I don't mean to play armchair quarterback, but let me offer a recommendation to you for when you frame wood floors. I am a Civil Engineer and licensed contractor who worked his way through college framing homes. So, I am a journeyman carpenter who has years of framing experience.
When you frame ANY wood floor, you ALWAYS use TJI floor joist or, if it is a very long span, use flat floor trusses. Nobody uses solid wood floor joists anymore, and you are learning a very hard lesson that illustrates why. TJI is a brand name of one joist manufacturer like Kleenex. The correct technical name is "I-joists," but a lot of carpenters call them TJI joists as a slang name.
The advantages of the I-Joists in floors and subfloors are as follows:
1. They are pre-engineered for each span and load. When correctly spec'd they are VERY strong. They don't sag over time when correctly spec'd for the floor load. Solid wood joists can sag or cup over time as you have seen in this video.
2. You can specify these yourself by reviewing the loads that your floor is going to carry and choosing the correct I-Joist for that load. You don't really have to have an engineer do this for you in many municipalities. Also, if you do hire a structural engineer, they don't have to do hardly any calculations to spec these.
3. They create a "silent floor" without any floor squeaks when correctly installed. They are FAR superior to solid wood floor-joists in this manner. I cannot emphasize how important this is because it can be very difficult to fix a squeaking floor.
4. As long as you don't get them wet, they stay perfectly straight, and they do not warp or twist. In fact, you do not have to crown them when you install them. However, they generally have a designed orientation, which is stamped on each joist.
5. They are cheaper than solid-wood joists in most cases.
6. They are much lighter and easier to install than solid wood floor joists, with one exception, which I will deal with in the next point (Point #7). Because they are lighter, they usually install quicker.
7. The main difference when framing with I-Joist is you have to install "bearing blocks" anywhere you have a bearing wall resting on them. However, since these blocks are all the same size, you can mass-cut them quickly on a chop saw and gun-nail them on (or screw them if you want extra protection from floor squeaks). Generally, if you gun-nail them in place, they won't squeak if you do it carefully.
8. If you have a heavy point load on your second-floor joist (like a grand piano or large bathtub), you have to add additional I-Joists or solid wood joists. Typically a structural engineer can easily spec this, but I often just reinforce the area myself because I can guess what is needed based on experience. I also will know the approximate weight of the piano or point load, and I just over-engineer it rather than doing load calcs. You have done this on your show many times and it does work. For example, adding two to three extra I-Joist under tubs is more than enough to prevent any sagging in the floor.
9. You can use them for rim joists on floors, but most framers and designers use solid wood joists around the perimeter of the subfloor or raised second floor.
I strongly encourage you to use I-Joists for your main-house construction. If you are paying for structural plans, make sure that you require the engineer to use I-Joists and not solid wood joists. I think you will be FAR happier with the results. BTW, when you first framed this second floor, I did mention this in the comments.
How do I-joists stack up against flat floor trusses? Cost and practicality?
@@coatknight Generally, you only use flat floor trusses when you are dealing with a larger span, like spanning a three-car garage. In most cases, you can buy I-Joists to meet most residential span requirements.
Flat trusses work pretty well, but they will settle under load, as all trusses do. This may cause some small dips in the ceiling below formed by the bottom chord of the truss. However, I would not hesitate to use flat trusses - they are an excellent choice.
As far as practicality, it is generally easier to use I-Joists than to install flat trusses. But remember, you are only going to use flat trusses to span large areas that you don't want posts in.
Installing I-Joists requires that you attach bearing blocks at point loads or distributed loads. You will not need to do that with flat trusses. However, you may have to fur out the edge of the trusses depending on what type of wall sheathing you are using. But that can be true with I-Joists in some cases.
My preference is to use I-Joists unless the area in question has a span too large for I-Joists to meet.
Really appreciate the comment! Structural engineer has specified engineered joists for the main house. He spec'd dimensional lumber for the garage so we went with that instead of changing and having to re-submit to the city.
Get yourself a server rack .Hard wire your house for internet and security cameras with cat-6 POE.
Nice. As I'm watching this, you're probably filming the roofers. Looking forward to seeing it!
Roof is done!!!
Paul was made for video. Love Paul. Hope you can keep videos coming long into the future! Living in Pa. I get the freezing feeling and how difficult it is to work in. Stay warm brothers.
Had a floor joist that was also humped up like yours at roughly 5/8" at its peak which is one of the many reasons an existing tile job was terrible. I ended up cutting open the subfloor along the joists parallel to the humped one to expose it. Clamped and leveled a straight board as guide on the side of the humped joist and planing it down to that board. The house was built in the 50's so I knew the board wouldn't be moving anymore, and the weight bearing load and deflection of the floor was still rated high enough with the 5/8" removed from that one joist. Also had 16" on center with the floor joists. Not sure if this would have worked in your scenario, but if another problem joist comes up, and shaving down a joist doesn't bring it below the minimum weight bearing capacity, it may save you some time. Love the channel, always learning something!
Yep, it got cold here. But, at least our winters only last about 4 days! Lol.
wouldn't it have been easier to remove the screws from the floor then mark a level line on the top of the joist and then use your oscillating tool to cut out the crown. then screw the floor back down?
I would have pulled that subfloor plywood up and planed the top of that joist and put the plywood back down..
Yup, I was a flooring installer for years and that was common practice.
I was thinking the same. However they said it was glued, screwed and under the sill plate
I would have attempted to free hand plane it from below with the oscillating tool after removing any screws in the warped area, but I’m much lazier than they are and it probably would not be too pretty. I bet I could make it work though.
Instead of cutting the joist, could you have unscrewed the floorboard, used a sawzall to trim off the top of the joist a kerf at a time, then resecured the floorboard?
good idea apocox - are lot of solutions, many better than their choice.... but they seemed desparate to do a long video.
Looks cold! Lol. Liked the awkward fire pit/barrel scenes, lol. Can't wait for the next video! Stay warm!!!
Much respect for adapting and overcoming these trials and tribulations with this awesome project.. At least the roofers will get a break before they work their tails off.
Don't forgett to pre-pull network cables for PoE cameras/devices and also inset boxes for outside lights and outlets before you do the sprayfoam insulation.
Make more than one 'relief' cut, then when it's flat, glue and screw on a sister.
Every time Paul said "humps," the Black Eyed Peas song "My Humps" popped into my head...and now it's stuck!
Given all the cat6 cabling you guys put in, you might want to consider getting a half depth rackmount with rackmountable network gear in there. Makes for a professional looking and clean install.
probably for the main house 👊
Good luck, gang. Time to design some Stud Pack mittens as merch for the webshop 😉
Dumpster fire, LOL Classic! Welcome to my world building in Seattle. The weather is my biggest complaint and challenge. I'm framing the top floor (3rd) no roof yet, today it was not a floor it was a swimming pool. I always wanted a home with a pool, I'm reminded to be careful what I wish for. Sub-floors not level at all but easily fixed with self leveling cement underlay compound if it would just stop raining and get above 50°. I may need to brown bag it and have a dumpster fire until then. Cheers
Uh...no - wifi goes through drywall just fine. It will have a much harder time going through metal. It is just like how electro-magnetic shielding works. If you want to protect something from EMI/EMP waves that can destroy your electronics, you add a metal shield or mesh around it - EM waves are interrupted and dispersed by the shielding from inside and outside.
Also, you want to position the access point/router at a higher point in your building while still keeping it accessible, so don't put it on the first floor. Putting it higher up (and centralized) increases the coverage of the wifi. If you have any doubts, download a wifi coverage app to your phone and check it for yourself.
That table saw trick cutting from behind was nice.
You boys should try working in winter in Scotland. Slab is like an ice rink daily and timber almost too cold to handle without extreme hand numbness. Makes our 28c summers feel roasting hot though!
Good choice on the tech cabinet to make it out from wood and not metal, the wireless router wouldn’t have been to happy in a small faraday cage 😊
Love that you guys deal with the same types of real life construction/remodel issues that I do! Good thing you caught the floor bow BEFORE the spray foam!
Excellent joist repair
Trust me, you want to add a backing board for the TV. You don't want to limit your options on mounts. I work in home theater installation and have ran into way too many brand new homes that we ended up having to mount to a center stud and toggle the edges. Just do it and save the hassle.
Now, don't forget to add two brush plates/boxes with a larger conduit to pass your HDMI cables from your tv down to whatever entertainment center you choose. This will really give a minimal look and also once again save tons of headaches. You don't want cables hanging everywhere and running cables through insulation is no fun.
I would be glad to answer any questions on the AV side [Speakers, Wiring, ECT]. Sonos has some great simple whole home audio products that would really make this space pop.
P.S. I would lower the TV box down around a foot or two. You want your livingroom tv to be centered at eye level. On the other hand this can conflict with furniture, so you have may have to mount it higher than what is considered "ideal". At the end of the day its your space so don't get discouraged by the "TV TOO HIGH" crowd.
I would have taken the screws out the sub floor and cut the crown out of the top of the 2X 12 with a oscillating tool. Then did the same as you and screw the floor back down into its new place.
nice content as always !!!
few advices for your network :
- most simple and efficient network design is fiber to modem to your firewall/router to a POE switch that distributes wifi access points and all wired sockets. Avoid wifi mesh and try to avoid calcading switches to keep it simple. Consrtains, this consumes more cable as you have to centralize everything.
- the best wifi is the one you don´t use : cable all static devices, tv, printers..etc...for your desk you can use a thunderbolt dock, with one usb-c cable connects everything network, screen...
- although consumer product mix wifi/switch/firewall features in one box, the constrains are different : firewall have to be physically should be close of your modem, usually in a cabinet or in a corner, omnidirectional wifi access point have radio signal in a donut / butterfly shape and the optimal position in on the ceiling. I suggest to place cables on ceiling in . If you're not a network engineer unifi products are a good compromise between consumer and super expensive pro,
Jordan's hairdryer will thaw those tools!
8:30 noooo just stick all the gear in the closet under the stairs!
Then all you need are your drops to any planned terminations in the walls and then a wifi AP on the finished ceiling
Also Leviton make structured cabling cabinets with a muddable flange for flush fit install and would have definitely been the better option here.
Also this ply thing is not going to vent heat and all your network gear is going to get cooked
Agree with your low voltage option.
When we lived in Leander it struck me as odd that none of the outside faucets were freezeless. I know hard freezes are rare down there but it just seems like such a cheap precaution that can save thousands in repairs from busted pipes.
Greetings from South Africa 🇿🇦. Wow, you guys are working hard in the cold weather. Luckily, you have a nice big warm fire going there 😂. Absolutely amazing repair job on the warped beam. That's what sets the professionals apart from the chances, even if these professionals have never built a house before 😂. Good job guys, good job. Cheers
I live up in pa we had like 2-4 inches of snow and feels like 2° on Tuesday and on Wednesday we were out shoveling snow off a roof to install a metal roof.
Paul, I have been watching for quite a while and really enjoy learning new things. I appreciate the details and pride in workmanship. Suggestion, cut your 2" pipe flush with your top plate and round over the PVC edge so it doesn't damage the insulation on the cables as. you pull into you equipment box, Or had a bell end flare to your pipe, and check your equipment to see if ventilation is required. Minor detail TP
13:26 Next time rig the comealong so that gravity is in your favor and you pull DOWN to tighten it.
I remember when my dad was building his house up here in Montana. There was one night, it was so cold they wouldn't let us kids go to help him. He said it was so cold that night, that he couldn't get his torch to heat the copper pipes up enough to melt the solder. But he had too much to do, so he didn't quite, he just went and found something else to do.
Paul seems to be in a great mood -- even better than usual -- I think he's liking the cold weather. lolol
I used to spray the crowned floor, Joyce, or whatever to buy your using spray with a spray bottle, wipe it down. Let it soak in a little while then pull down on it, so it doesn’t crack as easy works for me to try it guys. Love the videos. Keep rocking.
In that weather it would’ve just frozen, and there’s no telling if the weather would get warm enough before everything else happened for them to try it later
thanx for showing details on that flooring fix. my own home had to get some of that kind of fix, during construction. and i'm gonna be putting down new flooring, so i'll hafta learn how to use the leveling compound. which you've shown in prev vids. thanx for all you do.
Have your boys stand in the joist while you drive a wedge into the bottom of joist it will pull the warp right out then put scabs with pl adhesive on each side😃
Thanks for sharing!
Awesome plunge cut with the table saw,GOD BLESS
I loved how you guys went to the fire after each step. :) Glad to see a new video. Look forward to the roof and drywall videos!
Been waiting for this video all year long! :) Happy New Year, guys!
I am in Canada, on the west coast. We don't get a lot of snow in this particular spot, but we did this week. Like six inches. I've been off work for three days and broke out the snow shovel for the first time in two years. So, I have enjoyed this cold-weather edition of Stud Pack. Cheers.
Lower Mainland and the Island can get pretty snaky when it snows! I lived most of my life there, though moved to the East Kootneys a couple of years ago. Now I get to see real snow, and how it gets dealt with. Definitely a different lifestyle!
So you are the guys stealing our snow. Give the St-Lawrence region its snow back!
Surprised you didn’t go with the solar panel roofing…nothing beats a 0 electric bill….Great videos and fantastic progress on garage build.
We tried. All of the quotes were insane and would’ve ended the build immediately due to drained funds.
Interesting feedback about WIFI interference. I assumed you would use modular gear like Ubiquiti where all your Cat6+ cabling centralized, and just install power over Ethernet Wireless Access Points where needed. Tell me aren’t using consumer grade routers on a house this awesome? BTW- wired is always better than wireless so install 2-4x what you think you will need. Everything requires a network connection: TV, Apple TV, Game device, soundbar, cable, etc. An analogy - my Dad was an electrician on FDR’s Rural Electrification Act. They installed only one outlet receptacle in each room of a farmhouse. Network taps are like that: You don’t think you need them now but just wait… you will house 150 IP addresses over there before you know it.
It might be too late, but why did these guys add a sky light to the build. I think that would've definitely been a nice touch.
Love this series guys! Brilliant work one and all!! Thank you!!!!
I had a floor framed out in a room addition. They folded the metal ties acrosa the top then layed the flooring. Created a nasty hump. Enough for me to trip on it.
Cut out a large square , moved the straps and planned the boards ( also warped).
I visited Texas thinking it was like California, never getting cold. It was 20 degrees, so learned something!
Didn't think it got THAT cold in Texas, holy crap!
Glad to see you guys back after the holidays. That Advantech subfloor is so thick, it'll span very far between joists under residential loading. Kudos on the floor remediation. Keep warm!
My brother said there was snow in Montgomery TX ( near Houston)
Excellent video. Thank you.
Hey Stud Pack! We missed you guys (and gals)!
Way back, when you were sweating like a horse up on that roof, did ever think you'd have hats & gloves on? A fire barrel going? Single digits??? Well - us up here in the northeast - we feel your pain! :) Doing ANYTHING out in the cold like that, especially using your hands, is a miserable & painful experience. Hang in there!!
And in that dry winter weather.... Hydration is EASY to overlook - no one really thinks about it when it's cold out! Good for LMNT in helping out!
Cold weather like that will do CRAZY things to lumber; especially if there's moisture in that wood. Things freeze and all kinds of wonkiness ensues! But I'm curious: What was the plan, had that fastener in the floor, pulled out, instead of the beam pulling down? Metal shrinks when it gets cold, I seem to recall. :)
Your nice media cabinet: Give some SERIOUS thought about some ventilation for all those electronics. Your gear will thank you later!
Paul: I LOVE "seeing" that you're thinking about your peepers - when Rad was nailing things on! Still; WEAR your PPE!! :)
I'm looking forward to the next vid!
Be well guys!!
Sorry it was cold for you guys but I do enjoy your videos.
I am very surprised, y'all being from Louisiana, and the extent of this build, that you guys are going with shingles! Would have loved to see a metal roof install on this bad boy.
Metal roof on the back porch cuz of the low pitch but way too expensive for the garage once we got some prices 😳
@@StudPackjust watched the roofing video and I was just as excited watching that new product as I would have been with a metal roof. Man that’s amazing you won’t have to worry about that roof for a very long time!!
Project is really coming along. Been following it since you guys started it. It’s going to look great.
It would seem easier and structurally stronger to cut the flooring out and reinstall after shaving down the joist?
Love this build, you guys are doing things so well. Tons of information and ideas!
I never realized this could be a problem. I'm sure my 20 year old house has a few of those. May just slap a little mayonnaise on the joists when I redo my flooring.