After doing many sets of stairs thru the years, I found that if you’re trying to save the riser forms for multiple pours, a 35°-40° rip works just a little better, bcz it’s just a little less prone to breakage when you strip the forms than a really sharp 45° angle.
Watching as an apprentice carpenter. And this is SO interesting. Definitely an area I want to explore! Thanks for the great videos and information. It's inspiring to watch.
Nice tutorial! Just a small safety tips. Never tilt the saw blade on a table saw towards the fence. If a piece of wood gets trapped you'll get a kickback.
Okay, Mike; forming steps is less intimidating than I thought it was. Chamfering the riser form seems is another one of your great tips. Thanks. I'm close to being nearly ready to starting thinking about fixing to prepare to tackle some steps I need to build. Your videos are very helpful.
Mike, great work you do! Just a general question for you about forming the run of the stair. Do you ever slope the run downward for rain run-off? If so, 1%? Thanks for your all of your videos. I have already put your advice into my own work on projects going on at my place. This is amazing what you do!
Hello, do you pull the rebar up on the stairs while you pour? It looked like the rebar was laying flat on the foam. How would the rebar add strength if its not suspended in the middle of the concrete? Im just curious. Thanks for the videos!
Great video.. Is it common in your area to make the deck the same height as the floor coming out of the house? In my area when you open the door you would be pushing snow..
It’s better if you cut the boards on the sides into the shape of the stairs and then put the risers on and let them hang over a foot on each side that way when you’re steps get tied enough, you can pull the nails or screws out and you can see saw the risers back-and-forth and finish the face of the steps. You’re welcome.
Mike If u have access to Fiberglass rebar, make the change. Switched over 4 years ago. Changed my life. Carry as much as u can stack on a truck, doesn't rust, u can drive it into the dirt and it wont draw up the rust.
It’s made with a thin strip of wood, cut on a 45° angle. If you’ve only got a few pieces to do, you can make them right on the job. But most decent sized lumber yards sell chamfer strip already milled that you can purchase for very cheap by the bundle. Chamfering the edges and corners of concrete walls does a lot for ‘dressing-up’ the final product as well as keeping the edges much less likely to chipping and breakage.
After doing many sets of stairs thru the years, I found that if you’re trying to save the riser forms for multiple pours, a 35°-40° rip works just a little better, bcz it’s just a little less prone to breakage when you strip the forms than a really sharp 45° angle.
Oh wow. Talk about solid!!!!! Man o man . Professional. Much respect
Watching as an apprentice carpenter. And this is SO interesting. Definitely an area I want to explore! Thanks for the great videos and information. It's inspiring to watch.
This guy is the best I ever saw and I have paid for a lot of concrete . So pay attention !
Nice tutorial! Just a small safety tips. Never tilt the saw blade on a table saw towards the fence. If a piece of wood gets trapped you'll get a kickback.
SEEING THAT I WAS GOING OT MAKE THE SAME COMMENT
Okay, Mike; forming steps is less intimidating than I thought it was. Chamfering the riser form seems is another one of your great tips. Thanks. I'm close to being nearly ready to starting thinking about fixing to prepare to tackle some steps I need to build. Your videos are very helpful.
Love these videos. I don’t work with concrete... however I enjoy learning.
Excellent 1part of your work is a pleasure to see your projects greetings from san felipe chile
Really nice video, you are a real pro my friend.
Nice clean concrete work guys!
Mike, great work you do! Just a general question for you about forming the run of the stair. Do you ever slope the run downward for rain run-off? If so, 1%? Thanks for your all of your videos. I have already put your advice into my own work on projects going on at my place. This is amazing what you do!
I do slope it about 1/8 - 1/4", yes.
Hello !!
What if I just want to learn how to form stairs ?
Can I just choose that or do I have to get the whole program ?
I love your videos! How deep did your stair foundation go?
Hello, do you pull the rebar up on the stairs while you pour? It looked like the rebar was laying flat on the foam. How would the rebar add strength if its not suspended in the middle of the concrete? Im just curious. Thanks for the videos!
@ Mike day is their a video of the frost wall being formed??
Should the rebar not get suspended (2 inches / 50mm) off the insulation so there's coverage.
Did you run a string line or something similar to make sure stairs are straight across?
Did you say air and drainage ? Can u explain how you do this ?
Do you use air entrainment only when pouring during the fall/winter months?
Curious if you do or have ever done stairs with a curved radius.
Thanks for the tips Mike. Another great job by you guys 👍
Looks great Mike. Why put foam board under an exterior slab?
It keeps the frost from getting under it in the Winters here in Maine.
How do you calculate concrete needed for stairs.? What is your method
Awesome job!
Could you please tell me why you foamed under the pour?
It was in the spec. It helps keep frost from getting under the concrete and heaving it in the winter.
hello, how did you pour the concrete so that the walls didn`t have sharp edges?
Thank you!
You're welcome!
As always great tips and nice work !
Great video..
Is it common in your area to make the deck the same height as the floor coming out of the house?
In my area when you open the door you would be pushing snow..
Probably makes getting in the door easier for wheel chair people
That ADA ramp on the right does imply that someone in a wheelchair might appreciate not having a big step into the building. :)
Great content 👍
It’s better if you cut the boards on the sides into the shape of the stairs and then put the risers on and let them hang over a foot on each side that way when you’re steps get tied enough, you can pull the nails or screws out and you can see saw the risers back-and-forth and finish the face of the steps. You’re welcome.
Wow! Is that a cordes hammer drill? I don't run any corded tools anymore. It's great seeing all the bulldogs in the shop collecting dust.
Mike If u have access to Fiberglass rebar, make the change. Switched over 4 years ago. Changed my life. Carry as much as u can stack on a truck, doesn't rust, u can drive it into the dirt and it wont draw up the rust.
I always wonder how you get that camfer on the top of the concrete wall ?
It’s made with a thin strip of wood, cut on a 45° angle. If you’ve only got a few pieces to do, you can make them right on the job. But most decent sized lumber yards sell chamfer strip already milled that you can purchase for very cheap by the bundle. Chamfering the edges and corners of concrete walls does a lot for ‘dressing-up’ the final product as well as keeping the edges much less likely to chipping and breakage.
I must have missed it, but how will the first step be done, as it looks like it's around 18'' right now. Thank you.
The grade at the bottom isn’t up to finish yet
I want curved tapered steps. !?
Mike you formed that whole thing up yourself? Figures the boss has to work extra hard to keep things going. LOL
Me: What the hell is a yo-yo tool?
Also me: Oh the spinny hook thing....
too much concrete