I’ve used similar material in my house. I’ll tell people it’s not wood and everyone has been surprised even asked to touch it. Been up for 3+ years and still looks great. Since it’s not wood it doesn’t shrink in the winter like my wood baseboard does so it always look good, no gaps, 365 days a year.
I brought and installed this product and it came out just great. I took the time to painted it, than stain it to make it look like wood. ( this guy in the video show how to do this in another video). I also hung it 4" below the ceiling, so I could hide my speaker wires for my sound system, than place some rope lighting inside too. Don't listen to people who say this product is crap. I know better! It a cheaper alternative. This project in wood molding alonewould have cost triple what I paid for this.
Speaking of not using nails reminds me of a home in Indiana, newly built, and they hired an Amish crew to install the shingles on the roof. Amish didn't use electricity to nail them in, only tar or some kind of sealant. One hard windy storm, and the homeowner saw some shingles blowing off the roof while inside the family room.
@@roberthu5249 Yeah, I think I'm done with shingles. They're only as good as the installer. I had 30 year warranty dimensional shingles installed, and the roofer only put 5 nails across which voided the warranty because the mfger. required 6 nails across. And the nails must be installed in just that very narrow strip on the shingles where they're intended to be nailed. My installer put them haphazardly anywhere where it wouldn't be seen as long as it was covered by the next shingle above, so they eventually would crack off horizontally. You see, when you hire a roofing guy you sign his contract, and he also must sign yours which in part should give you the right to shoot him within the 30 years warranty period if the shingles prove a faulty installation.
I watch a lot of these types of videos and read the comments. The only thing worse than some of the ideas are the enormous egos many carpenters seem to have. So many negative comments by people who all seem to know the best way to cope corners and such. If you are good and versatile you should be able to use more than one method and make anything look. I've met many one trick ponies who seem to know everything and don't mind letting everyone know that they have the best way. I this and I that.Just sayin
I'm a trim Carpenter by trade and I see no problem with this product and I like the fact of using no nails. However the ceiling would have to be fairly straight, if there is a joint near a dip in the ceiling joint alignment will be a issue, even with wood crown and nails it presents a challenge to get the joints to align. Also 45 straight cuts in the corners will also present a problem , because most corners are not true 90 degrees and this moulding seems to have a rib on the back which to me will keep this product from being bedded up are down to get a tight bed joint in the corner , so I don't think it can be coped. All this being said I would still like to try it out . I always like to try new products.
Have you ever heard of Cyanoacrylate and their accelerants? I did a $500k kitchen without using a single nail installing the prefinished crown moulding.
Benjamin Smith - Sir, it was an historical renovation in a large enclave of similar mansions in the Craftsman period (fumed oak flooring, casing, base, balustrades, etc.). His was well out of date and he needed to "keep up with the Jones". Additionally he spent (I'm taking an educated guess here) another $70k on the appliances; 6' side by side Sub Zero freezer, 6' side by side Sub Zero fridge, 48" gas cook top, three electric convection built-in ovens. No joke. The end product was that he had a perfect kitchen/butlers pantry and I cleared well over $127k net and I sold three more over the next year in the same enclave. I've been published twice nationally, does Taunton Press ring a bell?
My crown molding was installed a few years back, nailed up. But during winter low humidity the molding separates at joints and gaps at the ceiling. Would this help or other thoughts?
I was wondering, is there a less permanent method for this product to be used in rental homes/apartments. For example, is the material light weight enough that we might be able to get creative with some heavy duty 3m wall tape or something of that nature without losing our deposit! Thanks!
I'd be careful with the heavy duty 3M stuff. it grabs and holds VERY strongly. some consider it "permanent". but, that's a great idea. there are many different strengths and thicknesses of double sided tape. ( I know, this is an old post I'm replying to. Is there a statute of limitations for responses on the 'net? )
I recently installed glass tile in my bathroom and I now have to install the door trim. I've looked around youtube and it looks like people are leaving the trim in place and tiling up to it. I didn't do this. I tilled to the just outside the reveal, 1 inch, with the trim removed. Should I attache the trim to the glass tile with liquid nails and nail to the door frame?
Wow, you guys are vicious. My 2 cents...I'm no finish carpenter, but I get a kick out of the resistance to change to new materials. I was a mechanic during the 70s 80s 90s 2000s and saw endless changes, mostly for the better. I remember the old timer mechanics bitching about disc brakes and electronic ignition. some even quit the business over it. I bet some chopper mechanics bitched when they went to carbon fiber blades. Seems funny now. From a DIY home owner point of view, I like non wood products for many projects. I would never use wood for exterior again like wood lap siding or window embellishments. Rot, warp, crack, maintenance, arrggghh! The urathane molding looks better than wood in my opinon, but can only be painted so has a limitation that way. Anyway, I think the foam material can be a good option. I am going to use it to hide wires for recessed lighting and code says you cannot use nails if there are wires behind it, so this will work good for that. Not mention the cost is about one third of wood. Anyway, just my opinion.
Styrene will flex a lot better than wood. If you can't make the molding stay in place till it dries, pound a small nail under it, or tape the heck out of it until the caulk dries. If the ceiling is grossly uneven you'll need to scribe the molding to the contour. The easiest way is do your best and caulk the rest.
One piece of crown molding above the stove fell off... if I apply caulking to reattach do you think the heat from the stove might cause it to detach again or should I buy a pneumatic nailer?
Well, if you are ever in a bind you can yank it off the wall and put it in and box and still ship your package. Don't buy this crap. Save your money for real wood or even mdf would be better.
My only question is, why is the spackle used at all? If I'm seeing this correctly it looks like he's using sealant on the mitered ends but spackle against the straight cuts. Why?
@@andyr8625 he didn't mention to use the bathroom if you have to shit either but presumably that's allowed. you can always adjust the miter angle and try it out on a test/scrap piece until you find a perfect angle.
@@andyr8625 you tell me. are you watching the video because you want to know more about polystyrene moulding in particular or because you didn't know that you can adjust the miter angle if 45/45 doesn't line up? I think it goes without saying that modifying the angle to fit an unsquare corner isn't going to make anything catch fire and explode.
Never been a fan of butt joints on molding. The preferred method to eliminate this is to us a mitered joint, with the front edge of the joint leading away from where the majority of people will be viewing it. Coping the corners is also preferred for concealing the joint and compensating for the fact that true 90 degree corners are almost non existent. But most polymer molding directions indicated NOT to cope the corner. The reason being that the material will not support the cut without blowing out during the process. The product is okay, but understand the limitations. With as light weight as the material is, it's really not necessary to hit a stud to secure it. Just a small gauge nailer and hitting the drywall at an angle will be enough.
Sometimes you NEED the material to nail otherwise you will be two far from the wall in these old homes. 2 options and only 2 options. Wood or MDF... MDF being the easier of the 2 since it’s easier to cope your inside corners.
I like the profile better than a std. crown molding. If you're skilled you can make this product look just as good as wood or MDF. Your teenage son will butcher crown molding of any material -- it's all about installation savvy.
We real carpenters don't cut crown molding on a chop saw, holding the molding across the back fence at a 45 deg. angle...It's all cut FLAT on the chop saw table using the secret angles degrees embedded on all modern chop saws....
To each his own... I personally am glad to see people coming out of the woodwork to criticize this. Sure, the stuff will work. But just throwing it up there with some caulk? Butt joints? I find it encouraging that millennials and the previous generation are starting to question every flashy new product that comes along. Most people don't even know what coping is, let alone how you do it... Quality products and craftsmanship are coming back into style and it is refreshing to see. It is equally refreshing to see people rebel against foam crown... I can just envision hanging a curtain rod and poking holes in it... Now we just need to rebel against that exterior PVC trim. That stuff should never have been invented.
I build museum displays, soentnyears exclusively on jewelry stores, custom homes before that. Why don't real everyday craftsmen do videos. DYI? Takes a few years to become a good trim carpenter. I think hire a reputable tradesman. It will look professional and you'll be happier.
Are you kidding me? First of all, no walls or ceiling are perfectly straight. That sealant will be everywhere when you try & push that crown over a hump. Second of all, you have to make test pieces for each corner & adjust the angle till both pieces meet perfectly. Third of all if anyone starts sanding butt joints over a curtain & doesn’t cover the lose curtains with a plastic drop cloth, they don’t have a freaking clue what they are doing. You flunked big time with this video!!!!!!!!!!!
S Terry as I explained no walls are perfectly straight. If you put an angle finder in the corner it does not give you an accurate angle if there are any humps along the last foot or two towards the inside corner. It also holds true for any irregularities in the ceiling. The two pieces of crown when cut with the same angle will line up perfectly according to where they want to sit. Once you have the perfect inside corner with your test pieces in place, you take your pencil & drag it along the top & bottom of both pieces about 4” from the inside corner of the wall. You’d also do the same with test pieces on the outside corners. Then snap chalk lines to maintain straight runs & shim where necessary.
I’ve used similar material in my house. I’ll tell people it’s not wood and everyone has been surprised even asked to touch it. Been up for 3+ years and still looks great. Since it’s not wood it doesn’t shrink in the winter like my wood baseboard does so it always look good, no gaps, 365 days a year.
Ron, you and the cast of This Old House are my absolute favorites. Thank you!
I brought and installed this product and it came out just great. I took the time to painted it, than stain it to make it look like wood. ( this guy in the video show how to do this in another video). I also hung it 4" below the ceiling, so I could hide my speaker wires for my sound system, than place some rope lighting inside too. Don't listen to people who say this product is crap. I know better!
It a cheaper alternative. This project in wood molding alonewould have cost triple what I paid for this.
This channel gives me great ideas about history ,people, places ,everything I wanted for thank u for creating this channel
Speaking of not using nails reminds me of a home in Indiana, newly built, and they hired an Amish crew to install the shingles on the roof. Amish didn't use electricity to nail them in, only tar or some kind of sealant. One hard windy storm, and the homeowner saw some shingles blowing off the roof while inside the family room.
LostInMySpace I
Was that my house? I had that happen more than once. Eventually put on a metal roof.
@@roberthu5249 Yeah, I think I'm done with shingles. They're only as good as the installer. I had 30 year warranty dimensional shingles installed, and the roofer only put 5 nails across which voided the warranty because the mfger. required 6 nails across. And the nails must be installed in just that very narrow strip on the shingles where they're intended to be nailed. My installer put them haphazardly anywhere where it wouldn't be seen as long as it was covered by the next shingle above, so they eventually would crack off horizontally. You see, when you hire a roofing guy you sign his contract, and he also must sign yours which in part should give you the right to shoot him within the 30 years warranty period if the shingles prove a faulty installation.
I watch a lot of these types of videos and read the comments. The only thing worse than some of the ideas are the enormous egos many carpenters seem to have. So many negative comments by people who all seem to know the best way to cope corners and such. If you are good and versatile you should be able to use more than one method and make anything look. I've met many one trick ponies who seem to know everything and don't mind letting everyone know that they have the best way. I this and I that.Just sayin
Scott Forbes fine. Put it up in ur nice trailer
There is a difference between professional installation and diy, if your installer is good.
Patrick Perry Correct. Money.
I'm a trim Carpenter by trade and I see no problem with this product and I like the fact of using no nails. However the ceiling would have to be fairly straight, if there is a joint near a dip in the ceiling joint alignment will be a issue, even with wood crown and nails it presents a challenge to get the joints to align. Also 45 straight cuts in the corners will also present a problem , because most corners are not true 90 degrees and this moulding seems to have a rib on the back which to me will keep this product from being bedded up are down to get a tight bed joint in the corner , so I don't think it can be coped. All this being said I would still like to try it out . I always like to try new products.
Junkyard Dawgs A level ceiling? Where? Never seen one myself, although ive heard they exist.
Abu Bahu they are rare ,but I did come across a couple of them back in the 90's.
Have you ever heard of Cyanoacrylate and their accelerants? I did a $500k kitchen without using a single nail installing the prefinished crown moulding.
Whoever paid $500k for a kitchen without NAILS and prefinished crown got SCREWED.
Benjamin Smith - Sir, it was an historical renovation in a large enclave of similar mansions in the Craftsman period (fumed oak flooring, casing, base, balustrades, etc.). His was well out of date and he needed to "keep up with the Jones". Additionally he spent (I'm taking an educated guess here) another $70k on the appliances; 6' side by side Sub Zero freezer, 6' side by side Sub Zero fridge, 48" gas cook top, three electric convection built-in ovens. No joke. The end product was that he had a perfect kitchen/butlers pantry and I cleared well over $127k net and I sold three more over the next year in the same enclave. I've been published twice nationally, does Taunton Press ring a bell?
My crown molding was installed a few years back, nailed up. But during winter low humidity the molding separates at joints and gaps at the ceiling. Would this help or other thoughts?
Can I do this with a wood material and an uneven wall/cieling?
I was wondering, is there a less permanent method for this product to be used in rental homes/apartments. For example, is the material light weight enough that we might be able to get creative with some heavy duty 3m wall tape or something of that nature without losing our deposit! Thanks!
I'd be careful with the heavy duty 3M stuff. it grabs and holds VERY strongly. some consider it "permanent". but, that's a great idea. there are many different strengths and thicknesses of double sided tape. ( I know, this is an old post I'm replying to. Is there a statute of limitations for responses on the 'net? )
what was the name of the crown molding?
I recently installed glass tile in my bathroom and I now have to install the door trim. I've looked around youtube and it looks like people are leaving the trim in place and tiling up to it. I didn't do this. I tilled to the just outside the reveal, 1 inch, with the trim removed. Should I attache the trim to the glass tile with liquid nails and nail to the door frame?
Wow, you guys are vicious. My 2 cents...I'm no finish carpenter, but I get a kick out of the resistance to change to new materials. I was a mechanic during the 70s 80s 90s 2000s and saw endless changes, mostly for the better. I remember the old timer mechanics bitching about disc brakes and electronic ignition. some even quit the business over it. I bet some chopper mechanics bitched when they went to carbon fiber blades. Seems funny now. From a DIY home owner point of view, I like non wood products for many projects. I would never use wood for exterior again like wood lap siding or window embellishments. Rot, warp, crack, maintenance, arrggghh! The urathane molding looks better than wood in my opinon, but can only be painted so has a limitation that way. Anyway, I think the foam material can be a good option. I am going to use it to hide wires for recessed lighting and code says you cannot use nails if there are wires behind it, so this will work good for that. Not mention the cost is about one third of wood. Anyway, just my opinion.
What if you have a uneven ceiling? How would you fix that problem.
Styrene will flex a lot better than wood. If you can't make the molding stay in place till it dries, pound a small nail under it, or tape the heck out of it until the caulk dries. If the ceiling is grossly uneven you'll need to scribe the molding to the contour. The easiest way is do your best and caulk the rest.
Demolish the house with a bulldozer.....thats easier.....dont ya think!!!
Burn down the house?
Simply add more caulk. Caulk the heck out of it.
@@LB-pg3no Why are men so emotional? I've dealt with toddlers more level headed than most men.
One piece of crown molding above the stove fell off... if I apply caulking to reattach do you think the heat from the stove might cause it to detach again or should I buy a pneumatic nailer?
Buy a new house...lmao
All the molding experts sure do come out of the woods to mock this. It looks fine and as long as your walls aren't crap no one will care.
lightweight Spackle keeps things from moving? what?
He said lightweight sparkle keeps things from moving.
How does this compare in price to wood crown moldings?
He is not there to answer you.
Well, if you are ever in a bind you can yank it off the wall and put it in and box and still ship your package. Don't buy this crap. Save your money for real wood or even mdf would be better.
Use MDF Moulding
Beautiful work. Thank you.
Can't wait for this sort of project to be do-able with holograms
whats the name of the spakel?
Being made from polystyrene, is it fireproof?
It is an accelerant
My only question is, why is the spackle used at all? If I'm seeing this correctly it looks like he's using sealant on the mitered ends but spackle against the straight cuts. Why?
Because the sealant will contract into the crack and you'll see a line. The sparkle won't and you can sand it smooth.
You made a 45 degree cut on your 1st piece,what if the corner wasnt 90 degrees??
then you adjust your saw to what ever degree it is
@@jerzey1016 but he didnt measure on video to show it...
@@andyr8625 he didn't mention to use the bathroom if you have to shit either but presumably that's allowed. you can always adjust the miter angle and try it out on a test/scrap piece until you find a perfect angle.
@@vortigaunt911 if we a presumed things on this subject(not toiletry 101)tere wouldnt be a need for watching the tutorial now would it... 😏
@@andyr8625 you tell me. are you watching the video because you want to know more about polystyrene moulding in particular or because you didn't know that you can adjust the miter angle if 45/45 doesn't line up? I think it goes without saying that modifying the angle to fit an unsquare corner isn't going to make anything catch fire and explode.
NICE, thank you!
I was thinking peel and stick. Maybe that will be next.
When are they coming out with styrofoam baseboard?
Never been a fan of butt joints on molding. The preferred method to eliminate this is to us a mitered joint, with the front edge of the joint leading away from where the majority of people will be viewing it. Coping the corners is also preferred for concealing the joint and compensating for the fact that true 90 degree corners are almost non existent. But most polymer molding directions indicated NOT to cope the corner. The reason being that the material will not support the cut without blowing out during the process.
The product is okay, but understand the limitations. With as light weight as the material is, it's really not necessary to hit a stud to secure it. Just a small gauge nailer and hitting the drywall at an angle will be enough.
Derek Smalls If one uses an angle finder miter joints work out great.
I'm sure when I do this it will go just as smoothly with no untold problems whatsoever!
I love how they make you believe that you can put caulk on the back of the crown and stick it to the wall without making a huge mess..... right!😂😂😂😂😂😂
Sometimes you NEED the material to nail otherwise you will be two far from the wall in these old homes. 2 options and only 2 options. Wood or MDF... MDF being the easier of the 2 since it’s easier to cope your inside corners.
cost
Excellent video.:-))
That man knows how to use his caulk.
Fantastic
foam. for making houses in the hood look classy.
I like the profile better than a std. crown molding. If you're skilled you can make this product look just as good as wood or MDF. Your teenage son will butcher crown molding of any material -- it's all about installation savvy.
Sorry man. It's still lipstick on a pig.
Made in America What Country of America ???
David Landaverde Sr The one that most people mean when they say America.
Hey smartass, he said America, not North America or South America.
I have seen it all.
Won’t work with wooden molding
I GUARANTEE that I would be frustrated with this project at minute one!
😅😂😂 me too! But I REALLY want it
great job. thank you
Looks better without that medieval moulding.
Happy
O like it
Easier and less work with brand nailer, never butt end to end on a straight joint.. Miter each side at a 45 so they fit seamlessly. Use Wood trim...
No wood trim ahole.....this is easier, cheaper, and doesnt contract or expand.....its a perfect installation!!!!!
Looks like it dry fast
What the Heck!! In a few years we will be living in a ginger bread house ...
🤣🤣🤣🤣
We real carpenters don't cut crown molding on a chop saw, holding the molding across the back fence at a 45 deg. angle...It's all cut FLAT on the chop saw table using the secret angles degrees embedded on all modern chop saws....
its a miter saw not a chop saw. chop saw does one thing, chop.
Looks fine to me
Can't see it from my house.
@@NeoMK Hillbilly carpentry looks fine to Hillbillies...
To each his own... I personally am glad to see people coming out of the woodwork to criticize this. Sure, the stuff will work. But just throwing it up there with some caulk? Butt joints? I find it encouraging that millennials and the previous generation are starting to question every flashy new product that comes along. Most people don't even know what coping is, let alone how you do it... Quality products and craftsmanship are coming back into style and it is refreshing to see. It is equally refreshing to see people rebel against foam crown... I can just envision hanging a curtain rod and poking holes in it... Now we just need to rebel against that exterior PVC trim. That stuff should never have been invented.
nice jeans shirt man
Perfect for the trailer!
Damp cloth is the only thing right about this vid lol
What a nightmare for the guy who buys this house next and wants to take it down😒
I bet It burns hotter than jet fuel
Who taught you how to install crown moulding? Butt joints and 45s in the corners? You've got to be kidding me.
Sorry folks but this is not an adhesive caulk and it doesn't have a foil seal inside the tubes nozzle.
fight me, old man
Junk. Do it right with wood, or don't do it.
it has got to the point that actual wood is hard to find, unless you're special ordering for a project. It's not for the casual weekend warrior.
Lol butt joints
Funny.....
he spend all this money for 1 molding
or get some 2P-10 an work like a professional
.... wood is cheaper than this foam shit..... damn
So this stuff is foam and held on by some cheap ass Sherwin Williams caulk? Nah I'll stick to the real stuff and a nail gun
I build museum displays, soentnyears exclusively on jewelry stores, custom homes before that. Why don't real everyday craftsmen do videos. DYI? Takes a few years to become a good trim carpenter. I think hire a reputable tradesman. It will look professional and you'll be happier.
What a joke.
Crap.
Simply crap.
Utter crap.
Fight me old man!
Are you kidding me? First of all, no walls or ceiling are perfectly straight. That sealant will be everywhere when you try & push that crown over a hump. Second of all, you have to make test pieces for each corner & adjust the angle till both pieces meet perfectly. Third of all if anyone starts sanding butt joints over a curtain & doesn’t cover the lose curtains with a plastic drop cloth, they don’t have a freaking clue what they are doing. You flunked big time with this video!!!!!!!!!!!
Rob G Why would someone make and adjust test pieces instead of using an angle finder?
S Terry as I explained no walls are perfectly straight. If you put an angle finder in the corner it does not give you an accurate angle if there are any humps along the last foot or two towards the inside corner. It also holds true for any irregularities in the ceiling. The two pieces of crown when cut with the same angle will line up perfectly according to where they want to sit. Once you have the perfect inside corner with your test pieces in place, you take your pencil & drag it along the top & bottom of both pieces about 4” from the inside corner of the wall. You’d also do the same with test pieces on the outside corners. Then snap chalk lines to maintain straight runs & shim where necessary.
Looks like crap