I've used Ballistol 🇩🇪 since 1997. Its handy for gun CLP but also boats 🚤, bikes, ski ⛷, fishing gear, knives. No odors, non toxic. It can be hard to buy.
Since 34 years i use Hoppe's #9 cleaner, simply because it's easily available around here and it's the cheapest. I am very happy to see that it's one of the two best solvents. Thanks a lot for this little "unofficial" test, but it says a lot !
kylethedalek yes, I've used it on all my guns since my dad showed me years ago how to clean my first gun, blued, parkerized, duracoated, polymer and wood and it hasn't hurt a thing, but be safe and don't just let it sit on the finish
Good video, Gear. Thanks. The smell of Hoppes takes me back to when I was 12 years old with my new Winchester model 67 (which I still have) squirrel hunting in the woods around my house in western NC. There was over 500 acres of woods which were my kingdom. I religiously cleaned the gun after I got home whether I shot it or not. Good times, those.
All I use is ballistol. I used to use hoppes, but being that I own multiple types of AKs with different finishes and what not, I switched to ballistol years ago and haven’t used anything else since. Hoppes is great stuff of course, but it’s harsh and will eat up some finishes. Just not necessary IMO. Ballistol is awesome Bc it does everything and won’t hurt any type of firearm finish. And with hoppes or the other harsh solvents, you have to make sure to lubricate your rifle anyway after. Ballistol removes lead significantly while also being a lubricant. Ballistol is all you need folks Bc it does everything at once and very effective at everything as well
I like this test on the solvents! I would suggest using a 'control' of either/both an untouched square (with the lead smear) or/and a square with plain water (or a simple solution that doesn't take off metal at all). Wiping the untouched square would show how much the Q-tip would remove with friction and wiping the 'plain solution' square would show how much a liquid could help remove the lead. Great test regardless!
(Wife's acct) I think you did a good test here. I have fired 10's of thousands of lead bullets through 2 9mm G17 and 45acp in a G21 and several 1911's I built. In the Glock 17 I used the Glock bbl and a KKM match SS bbl. A Glock 17 bbl will shoot lead, I and several friends in IDPA have been doing this since 2001, using a 147 cast at 15-16 bh...firing about 900 rds per 2 day weekends. Cleaned bbls after every 300 rds using Kroil. Kroil will float the lead out of the groves. I learned this from Jerry Miculek and Billy Young, two of the guys I shot with back in early 2000's. I added Kroil to the homemade bore solvent called ED's RED. You can find it on YT. I mix 16 oz of each of the following. Acetone, Dexron II, III or IV ATF, Mineral Spirits, Kerosene ( 1K used in heaters), and Kroil penetrating oil. I mix all in a 5 gallon red plastic gasoline can. This last for several years, even when giving it to friends.
My Family has been using Ballistol since my Grandfather and my Granduncle were in WWI and I use it also to this day. It's my primary CLP. I clean my firearms after every trip to the Range.
Many people over clean the bores of there rifles. You should clean out the powder residue regularly, but not the gilding from bullet jackets. Many folks cant understand that cleaning the metal from the barrel several times a year will keep the barrel in a sort of limbo between "new" and "broken in". You cant have a cold shot kill at 300 yards, if you cleaned your rifle after you got home from the range. Great show and tell fredhart !
The Outers and the Ballistol worked well because they didn't evaporate, and when worked with the q-tip they removed the lead. I'd like to see each one applied and immediately worked. Thanks for the video.
Cool test, good video, thanks for the share... Hope you're doing well 10 1/2 years later after this vid was made. Even though I wasn't into guns until I was well into adulthood, I have a fond spot in my heart for Hoppes because it always used to be next to/near the fishing stuff and the branding/labels stick with you. Amazing nobody has come out as true a Hoppes-killer in all these years - Ballistol is maybe the closest to that.
I recently acquired a vintage M1 Carbine sight still packed in the original cosmoline from the 40's. It was recommended to soak in gasoline overnight to remove it. I soaked it in Hoppe's No. 9 overnight and that did the trick. Well, that and a soft tooth brush...
I absolutely love all your plate of truth videos! Why? Cuz I'm new to handguns and wanted to know what are the best products out there. You not only told me you showed me! Thank you!
I'm surprised, that Ballistol removed the lead that good for a lubricant. In my shooting club, we use Ballistol for cleaning and observing the .22 rifles and airrifles. It does a great job, it won't get sticky like WD-40 does and it cleans off all the mud which is caused by the burnt gunpowder. Pretty nice stuff!
Thank you for a super review. Even if it's not perfect, it sure suggests what one can expect from each of the products. While a satisfied Ballistol user, I'm going to supplement it with Hoppe's No.9 to assure a clean bore.
Thanks for taking the time to do this. Interesting to see how well these products "dissolve" lead, but not really consistent with the way I think most people clean a bore. Maybe it's just me, but I run a wet patch through the bore and let it sit while cleaning the action, then run wet patch(es) through (or a brush & patches, if it's really fouled) until they come through without residue and then proceed with dry patches. I think most cleaners & solvents work best (or only) when applied with a little elbow grease, rather than just apply, let it sit and wipe dry. Anyhow, interesting to see the results.
Thanks for taking the time to do these videos. One thing that would really improve experiments like these is just a few repeated sections treated identically. If your results are the same for plates treated the same, it helps to validate your methodology. If not, you know there's a problem. Blinding to eliminate bias is not a bad idea either. Thanks.
Ballistoll is an amazing thing, it was also used as a topical ointment for minor wounds. It is about the best on black powder guns. Make "moose milk" with it for scrubbing them.
Really good vid. However, the Remington 40X Bore Cleaner was not used correctly. It is supposed to be shaken up (it has a metal ball in the bottle that mixes it, similar to a can of spray paint). There is a grey substance in it that seems to have the consistency of baking soda, this acts as a very mild abrasive. In other words, it cleans all types of barrel fouling by chemical and mechanical action. I have found this product works very well for cleaning the heavy lead fouling left in smooth bore shotguns when firing foster slugs.
People can correct me if im wrong but in cleaning, youd be agitating with a wet patch, then then a brush and then a patch, etc. By allowing the products to dry and no agitation or brushing, how can the products be expected to work by their own volition?
Just a thought, the advantage of the Outers foaming cleaner is that it keeps wetter longer. I personally use M-Pro7 and highly recommend it. For cleaning lead though I don't let it sit long, plus I use a nylon brush to scrub. Another great product is Gunslick foaming bore cleaner, which I use. It cleans powder, lead, and copper. Copper makes it turn blue, so you know that when no more blue comes out your gun is clean, although you might need to do it twice or more. Great video though.
pjbadgersuw26 Thank you, I stand corrected, you are absolutely right. Just shows that what we believe isn't always correct. It will be hard, after all these years to pronounce it that way now! But I do appreciate your correction:)
Great video. Thanks for the test. A question (probably asked before) : Wouldn't it be better to heat up the lead and/or "plate of truth" to better simulate the "bond" that occurs between the lead and the bore under extreme pressure/heat like what happens when a bullet is fired? How much do you think this would affect it? have you ever tested actual bores by weighing them with an extremely accurate scale, before/after cleaning? I weigh my new barrels as a reference to detect leading.
Obviously you did a ton of work. Greatly appreciated. Could you do a cylinder test and de-leading.? I have a SW 686 for 7 rounds. Lead residue very stubborn. Which is the best for this kind of fouling? I really had to scrub with Hoppes. Thanks
Wantedt o thank you due to the fact that I have completely eliminated all sleep aid from my medicine cabinet!Seriously though the COPPER bore brush is what really cleans out any lead fouling.The solvents only really remove powder and any remaining residue from the primer ignition.
I use Barnes C-10 it works great. They recommend using a nylon brush. Used it on an 1884 trap door springfield that was so fouled, it looked like a smooth bore. That bore looks really clean and shines.
Been using Hoppes no. 9 …most of the time. Used Ballistol also. Both have worked great! I’m going to try CLP by Lucas soon. They make a great product for drag racing oil in my car, so, ill try it.
If you're getting leading in your barrel, the most effective thing to do is not just try to simply brush it out if you're shooting cast bullets through a pistol or rifle. Instead you need to be shooting cast bullets that match the throat in your gun. Fill up the barrel with the right size and you will create a good seal, thereby eliminating leading typically. For the rest, a Lewis lead remover or a few strands of an unraveled copper chore boy around your copper brush ran through the barrel dry will do wonders for removing any leading.
***** Hopefully you aren't opposed to me giving a shameless plug here but if so feel free to delete it. There is a lead bullet seller that allows you to order and select the size that fits your bore. DardasCastBullets.Com. His webstore gives proper instruction on how to find your throat diameter and shoot cast bullets that seal the bore. There are other factors regarding some leading of the bore but for pistols, size and a good bullet lube will go a long, long way to preventing leading in the first place. When we talk about rifle bullets, those two are even more crucial, but at a certain point; usually 1500fps we need to consider adding a gascheck to the base of the bullet. That gas check will allow you to go all the way to 2400 ~ 2500fps without experiencing leading or a loss in performance. However, once we start to get past that speed; say 22-250, we need a full length gas check, or basically a jacketed bullet. Lead is just too soft and starts to break apart under those high speeds. Sorry to type a book there for ya, hope I had some interesting information for you.
Interesting. I would have to say that just rubbing a .22 bullet isn't quite enough to simulate lead fowling. I have tried a number of advertised "lead removers". I shoot almost exclusively cast lead bullets in my handguns. In the end, the easiest way I've found to remove lead fowling is good 'ol Chore Boy copper scrubbing pads. They are dirt cheap and incredibly effective.
***** I was always taught the old school mentality that you should never fire jacketed after lead. The theory is that should you badly foul the barrel with lead, then fire a jacketed round, it will over pressurize the chamber and can kaboom. I've actually seen several documented cases of this happening. It always happened with new bullet casters/reloaders who had BAD leading issues, and never had the sense to clean out the fouling. I currently still get some very slight leading in my 9MM's. It's really more of a lead "smudge". It comes clean with 2-3 quick Chore-Boy passes. My .45's however, currently have several thousand rounds through them with nothing more than a oiled patch every 400 or so rounds. After a heavy range session they shine like new. Lead treats barrels very well.
Hans S. I was going to write the same thing, but if someone could offer a preparation that "eats lead" in a badly leaded barrel and not the steel, I would be interested. Details: I was along with my daughter when she bought an old Mossberg 151K from 1950-51 and I swabbed the barrel with Hoppe's No. 9 and dried it with clean dry patches before she shot it, using .22 Aguila SuperExtra standard velocity 40 grain (lead, not copper coated bullets). I've never had a .22, so I was unaware of the copper coated option, so we bought what the store had. She fired around 300 rounds through it. When I went to clean the barrel, I had a hard time getting a patch through it ahead of the chamber. Flecks of lead were on the dirty patches. I haven't been to a store to get any Chore Boy pads yet. In cleaning the action, the bolt had no wear marks on it and looked essentially new, as did the other parts of the gun. Maybe it leaded so badly because the barrel hadn't been polished by rounds yet. .
geoh7777 There are a number of things that could cause that, though I do not claim to be an expert. It may have already had a leaded barrel prior to your shooting it, as during that time almost all .22 rounds were non-jacketed. Also, though hopefully not, the barrel could be badly pitted from neglect, even if the bolt face and exterior were in good shape. I know most ammo from the past was corrosive, but I don't know if that pertains to .22 or not, and when they stopped using it. Corrosive ammo can chew up a barrel fast if not cleaned promptly. Chore boy is a good start, though I have never tried it on a bore as small as a .22. It will be a bit trickier. There are also several solvents designed just for lead. I have one made by Shooters Choice. I believe I got it from PalmettoStateArmory.com or maybe Gander Mt.
Hans S. Thanks for the help. but, after reading the reviews here: www.midwayusa.com/Product/398676/shooters-choice-lead-remover-bore-cleaning-solvent-4-oz-liquid I'm going to get the Chore Boys and ry that out, and will be looking for pitting in that barrel. .
Yes! A small piece Chore boy wrapped around a bore brush works better than anything else you will find. But there are some chore boy knock-off products that are actually copper coated steel. It you use one of the knockoffs check it with a magnet first!
Fred, Hoppes Ellite and M pro-7 are the exact same product,just marketed under different names.they are a bit harsh for blued finishes and can damage the finish,especially if left on too long..i generally would only use them to clean a heavily fouled barrel.. my personal favorite is Ballistol,this stuff is awsome and has become my favorite CLP..i highly recommend it..thanks for the great vid..
I use Butch's Bore Shine and I find it to be the best out of all the solvents I've ever tried. Don't know what all the fuss is about. Its aggressive so I only let soak for a minute or two, and clean as usual, then I use Birtchwood Casey's bore scrubber to remove any Butch's leftover. I love the stuff.... IMO, its the best stuff I've ever used for removing copper/lead other than JB compound.
Well Done. Great information came out of your "test". I have used Hoppe's No. 9 since I first bought my first gun. Good to know I chose a good cleaner.
By far the BEST stuff I have ever used on guns is a little known solvent called Strike Hold Solvent. It is WAY BETTER than Ballistal, CLP, or Hoppes#9! Lead just comes completely off of everything you spray it on! The funny thing is you never see the stuff except on Amazon. The reviews on it backs up what I’m saying about it too! No comparison to me!
Fred that was an awesome video, always wondered how good hoppe's 9 was compared to the others because its all i have ever used. Now I know i'm using the best. Thanks
Note fred that on rough surface rust starts faster, so if there are any scratches, rusting starts there faster. maybe adding scratches into part of the squares would be good idea for more thorough testing.
Remington Bore Cleaner is actually a mild abrasive that is put into suspension when it is shaken. It's not a great solvent, it works by abrasive action. It is very effective at removing copper and lead but only if it is shaken first, to put the abrasive in suspension, and only if it is physically scrubbed over the fouling. It won't do anything if it is just left to sit on the lead. If the instructions on the bottle are followed it works very well.
Did you remove the wax from the .22 projectile ? otherwise the first-rubbed square,( no. 3 ?) would have a higher-likelyhood of being easier to remove with a lube-barrier between the lead and plate
outers is really good , so is hoppes #9 , also ballistol. Rem oil is garbage , outers oil is much much better. It's not thick or watery. I prefer outers nitro solvent over hoppes , hoppes tends to stick around while the nitro solvent evaporates and leaves a very light coating of oil.
Thank you Fred, for conducting the test that I've always been too lazy to do myself. I'd be curious about Froglube too. I'd rub the lead on both metal that's been pre-treated with it as well as on bare metal. Then I'd try to remove the lead with more Froglube.
Interesting. I would rather buy a can of lead remover and use standard cloth. Did you try removing the lead with just a rag or q-tip with no cleaner? Just to make sure it wouldn't come off? The lead removal cloths seem to really work.
Interesting, I did a test of Sweet's 7.62 on an ordinance steel plate. Slobbed it on and left it in a moist basement. Checked periodically for a couple of months. Never noted any extra corrosion. Sweets 7.62 has more ammonia than any other cleaner. Once forgot and shook container before using it. The ammonia made my eyes water. It was so bad had to leave basement for awhile. Butch's Boreshine is great on copper fouling in centerfield rifles. Soak bore, use some patches and it will get it all out. Of course Hoppes #9 works great on bores also but Butch's seems to be faster and more through.
I like foams better myself. For a quick clean you can just flood the barrel and grip, let it sit and then clean out with a rag or paper towel. Dont even need to field strip. For a thorough clean you disassemble the gun, put the metal parts in ziplock bags and then fill them up with foam. (Within reason of course, no need to be wasteful.) Remove, wipe clean, all the gunk stays in the bag and you can toss it with almost no mess.
I have had great success with M-Pro 7 products, I have both Hoppes No 9 Synthetic Blend and M-Pro 7, when I do not want to stink my house up I use M-Pro 7 and just quickly clean the firearm with the tired and true 3x rinse, scrub, wipe technique, and finish with my Hoppes silicone cloth on the exterior. With that I am done in about 5-10 minutes at most and its good to go. When I want a thorough clean I use the Synthetic Blend Hoppes, and leave it on for about 10 minutes on the first "soaking". From there I wipe down, scrub, soak again for 5 minutes, and then, scrub, wipe down, then do an immediate soak scrub wipe, check the patches/pads and if it looks clean, I oil it with M-Pro 7 and wipe the exterior with a Hoppes silicone cloth, done. But this takes me about 30 minutes per firearm, ans I only do this about once every 1,000 rounds.
Some would suggest that the test procedure was flawed from the start...'cause of the absence of an opened can of beer or two. But, on the other hand, if'n you did employ a certain amt. of the suds ...first, ya may 'ave decided to chuck the test altogether. Just saying.
Gotta get some Hoppes 9 I have a Ruger 44mag that melts Oregon Trail Laser cast bullets like chesse on a pizza and they are supposed to be the hardest cast bulllets you can get. Thanks for the test
Hey fred thx for making this vid because not a lots of people like me can buy all these products try out and lucky i didn't mess up my gun now i know what good and whats not
That's a good test I wish you would do one with BLUE WONDER BORE CLEANER and SMITH&WESSON BORE GEL I have seen pretty good reviews online but you never know. I have some old military surpluse rifles that need a good clean hoppies number 9 just won't cut it. already tried and still looks dirty and not as shinny as my other bores.
@jsmonk Ballistol is infamous for its "odd" smell. I use it and it is great as an all arround/do everything cleaner, protectant,solvent. It does smell wierd though, and the smell tends to linger for a while. It isn't really chemical smelling, just weird.
where's this lead coming from ?? Most bullets now are copper clad are they not ???? In my experience, lead is removed by vigorus use of the brass bore brush with the cleaner acting as a releasing agent.
Actually, that was pretty useful demonstration to me as a .22 shooter. Most of the bulk ammunition that I'm most likely to put through the barrel is lead. And when it is not, the lead round has just a thin copper wash or other light coating on it.
Perfect hd quality video. Nice job. I love my Ballistol. Will you ever do one on greases? That would include mil-comm, mil-tech, tetra grease and more? That would be awesome!
If every back and forth of your wiping represents a patch, you must go through hundreds of patches. Also Ballistol is sold as a CLP, not just a lubricant. You could tell you really wanted it to work. You seemed to rub it more and harder, and judged it awfully generously. I expected Hoppes and outers, which is repackaged forrest bore cleaner, and Butches Bore Shine to do well; the Outers because it was developed for the Finnish military for cleaning artillery and auto cannons, and I've used it, the Hoppes and Butches because Hoppes was developed when bare lead bullets were common, and Butches because it's a Hoppes analogue.
A cheap control would have been to use water, mineral oil, or nothing at all, just to see how effective the q-tips alone were. One possibility in this test is that the lead is being polished, rather than removed. After a while, without a protective coating the lead will oxidize again.
On my wat to pick up some cleaning supplies and thought I should see what people are using. Found your video and found it to be very well done and helpful. Thank you keep up the good work. Also interested in an oil test,not sure how you would test them though. I guess its back to good ol #9.
As long as you're willing to let it sit for a while, I still think Hoppes is the best. Gets rid of both copper and lead fouling. Good effort on your part, but you can't duplicate the firing of a lead bullet by rubbing a lead bullet on a steel surface. Not a criticism, but a fact. I would always recommend a two stage cleaning, with Hoppes first, let it sit, wipe it off, then apply any light gun oil. But, good video.
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I am glad to see Ballistol performed so well. I am a huge fan of Ballistol.
If its good enough for the Kaiser,its good enough for me.
I've used Ballistol 🇩🇪 since 1997. Its handy for gun CLP but also boats 🚤, bikes, ski ⛷, fishing gear, knives. No odors, non toxic. It can be hard to buy.
I've used Hoppes for 45 years, always performed well. Yes, it does have a smell to it but it does the job reliably and thoroughly.
Some poontain foo yang has a smell too, not often it’s been turned down
I love that smell.
Since 34 years i use Hoppe's #9 cleaner, simply because it's easily available around here and it's the cheapest.
I am very happy to see that it's one of the two best solvents.
Thanks a lot for this little "unofficial" test, but it says a lot !
Michel Lalonde would you say hoppes is ok to use on blued guns?
kylethedalek yes, I've used it on all my guns since my dad showed me years ago how to clean my first gun, blued, parkerized, duracoated, polymer and wood and it hasn't hurt a thing, but be safe and don't just let it sit on the finish
I'm happy to see the Hoppe's 9 did a good job because that's the one I've always used
Hoppes 9 is all I use and I am glad to see it works and doesn't leave lead behind. I don't like half assed gun cleaning.
Good video, Gear. Thanks. The smell of Hoppes takes me back to when I was 12 years old with my new Winchester model 67 (which I still have) squirrel hunting in the woods around my house in western NC. There was over 500 acres of woods which were my kingdom. I religiously cleaned the gun after I got home whether I shot it or not. Good times, those.
Amazing how the decades peel away... Does the same for me. The best of times those afternoons and evenings in the grouse woods so long ago.
All I use is ballistol. I used to use hoppes, but being that I own multiple types of AKs with different finishes and what not, I switched to ballistol years ago and haven’t used anything else since. Hoppes is great stuff of course, but it’s harsh and will eat up some finishes. Just not necessary IMO. Ballistol is awesome Bc it does everything and won’t hurt any type of firearm finish. And with hoppes or the other harsh solvents, you have to make sure to lubricate your rifle anyway after. Ballistol removes lead significantly while also being a lubricant. Ballistol is all you need folks Bc it does everything at once and very effective at everything as well
I'm very happy with No 9, glad it did well on the tests.
Hoppe's still has it after so long. Nice to see. Thanks for the test!
Skip to 28 min if your impatient like me. Thank you to the commenter below for saving my time
Thank You!!!!
Thank you! This could have been a 2-3 minute video. It's way too long and time is as important as health and money.
just what I was thinking ,,went straight to comments and you saved me some time brother ,, thank you.
Seriously, thank you very much for your time and dedication in performing this test.
Have tried lots of different products... and i keep coming back to "old school" Hoppes#9. Works on both Copper and Lead.
I was just about to ask if Hoppes 9 worked as well with copper deposits. Thanks
it works well if you let it soak for a few minutes. I have had great luck removing copper deposits with a product called Sweet's 7.62.
Just curious, how come you didn't test CLP?
Eezox is hands down better than anything I’ve used. Also the most expensive! Thanks for taking the time to share.
I like this test on the solvents! I would suggest using a 'control' of either/both an untouched square (with the lead smear) or/and a square with plain water (or a simple solution that doesn't take off metal at all). Wiping the untouched square would show how much the Q-tip would remove with friction and wiping the 'plain solution' square would show how much a liquid could help remove the lead. Great test regardless!
(Wife's acct) I think you did a good test here. I have fired 10's of thousands of lead bullets through 2 9mm G17 and 45acp in a G21 and several 1911's I built. In the Glock 17 I used the Glock bbl and a KKM match SS bbl. A Glock 17 bbl will shoot lead, I and several friends in IDPA have been doing this since 2001, using a 147 cast at 15-16 bh...firing about 900 rds per 2 day weekends. Cleaned bbls after every 300 rds using Kroil. Kroil will float the lead out of the groves. I learned this from Jerry Miculek and Billy Young, two of the guys I shot with back in early 2000's. I added Kroil to the homemade bore solvent called ED's RED. You can find it on YT. I mix 16 oz of each of the following. Acetone, Dexron II, III or IV ATF, Mineral Spirits, Kerosene ( 1K used in heaters), and Kroil penetrating oil. I mix all in a 5 gallon red plastic gasoline can. This last for several years, even when giving it to friends.
My Family has been using Ballistol since my Grandfather and my Granduncle were in WWI and I use it also to this day. It's my primary CLP. I clean my firearms after every trip to the Range.
Nice vid and test, thanks for taking the time. Hoppes number 9 is old school but still gets the job done right.
Many people over clean the bores of there rifles. You should clean out the powder residue regularly, but not the gilding from bullet jackets. Many folks cant understand that cleaning the metal from the barrel several times a year will keep the barrel in a sort of limbo between "new" and "broken in". You cant have a cold shot kill at 300 yards, if you cleaned your rifle after you got home from the range. Great show and tell fredhart !
The Outers and the Ballistol worked well because they didn't evaporate, and when worked with the q-tip they removed the lead. I'd like to see each one applied and immediately worked. Thanks for the video.
Cool test, good video, thanks for the share... Hope you're doing well 10 1/2 years later after this vid was made.
Even though I wasn't into guns until I was well into adulthood, I have a fond spot in my heart for Hoppes because it always used to be next to/near the fishing stuff and the branding/labels stick with you. Amazing nobody has come out as true a Hoppes-killer in all these years - Ballistol is maybe the closest to that.
Skip to 28:04
thanks this guy talks to much
lol. Thank you so much
I recently acquired a vintage M1 Carbine sight still packed in the original cosmoline from the 40's. It was recommended to soak in gasoline overnight to remove it. I soaked it in Hoppe's No. 9 overnight and that did the trick. Well, that and a soft tooth brush...
I absolutely love all your plate of truth videos! Why? Cuz I'm new to handguns and wanted to know what are the best products out there. You not only told me you showed me! Thank you!
It kills my ocd that you didn't put Hoppes on square 9
Re do it! The numberphiles are foaming at the mouth!
Or CDO if you put it in proper alphabetical order.
@@tommyoliver7399 Beat me to it lol
lol
If that bothers you, good thing he isn't including G96!
I'm surprised, that Ballistol removed the lead that good for a lubricant. In my shooting club, we use Ballistol for cleaning and observing the .22 rifles and airrifles. It does a great job, it won't get sticky like WD-40 does and it cleans off all the mud which is caused by the burnt gunpowder. Pretty nice stuff!
Watch Project Farm’s test that includes Ballistol, apparently it’s not that good of a “lubricant” but it does a lot of other stuff pretty well.
@@zach7j Ha thanks for reminding me of the english carnage I wrote back then.
Thank you for a super review. Even if it's not perfect, it sure suggests what one can expect from each of the products. While a satisfied Ballistol user, I'm going to supplement it with Hoppe's No.9 to assure a clean bore.
Thanks for taking the time to do this. Interesting to see how well these products "dissolve" lead, but not really consistent with the way I think most people clean a bore. Maybe it's just me, but I run a wet patch through the bore and let it sit while cleaning the action, then run wet patch(es) through (or a brush & patches, if it's really fouled) until they come through without residue and then proceed with dry patches. I think most cleaners & solvents work best (or only) when applied with a little elbow grease, rather than just apply, let it sit and wipe dry. Anyhow, interesting to see the results.
Hoppe's since my Dad taught me how to clean a firearm, over 65 years ago.
Thanks for taking the time to make this video. Very interesting.
Thanks for taking the time to do these videos. One thing that would really improve experiments like these is just a few repeated sections treated identically. If your results are the same for plates treated the same, it helps to validate your methodology. If not, you know there's a problem. Blinding to eliminate bias is not a bad idea either. Thanks.
Appreciate your testing and evaluations! Saves the rest of the world a whole lot of time and effort. Kudos.
Ballistoll is an amazing thing, it was also used as a topical ointment for minor wounds.
It is about the best on black powder guns. Make "moose milk" with it for scrubbing them.
Really good vid. However, the Remington 40X Bore Cleaner was not used correctly. It is supposed to be shaken up (it has a metal ball in the bottle that mixes it, similar to a can of spray paint). There is a grey substance in it that seems to have the consistency of baking soda, this acts as a very mild abrasive. In other words, it cleans all types of barrel fouling by chemical and mechanical action. I have found this product works very well for cleaning the heavy lead fouling left in smooth bore shotguns when firing foster slugs.
People can correct me if im wrong but in cleaning, youd be agitating with a wet patch, then then a brush and then a patch, etc. By allowing the products to dry and no agitation or brushing, how can the products be expected to work by their own volition?
Just a thought, the advantage of the Outers foaming cleaner is that it keeps wetter longer. I personally use M-Pro7 and highly recommend it. For cleaning lead though I don't let it sit long, plus I use a nylon brush to scrub. Another great product is Gunslick foaming bore cleaner, which I use. It cleans powder, lead, and copper. Copper makes it turn blue, so you know that when no more blue comes out your gun is clean, although you might need to do it twice or more. Great video though.
50 years of gun cleaning and happy to see that "Hopps" (pronounced correctly), still does just about the best job!
It is actually pronounced "Hoppies/Hoppy's."
pjbadgersuw26 Thank you, I stand corrected, you are absolutely right. Just shows that what we believe isn't always correct. It will be hard, after all these years to pronounce it that way now! But I do appreciate your correction:)
I always been using hopps # 9 It always seems to work well. .thanks for posting the video.
Great video. Thanks for the test. A question (probably asked before) :
Wouldn't it be better to heat up the lead and/or "plate of truth" to better simulate the "bond" that occurs between the lead and the bore under extreme pressure/heat like what happens when a bullet is fired? How much do you think this would affect it?
have you ever tested actual bores by weighing them with an extremely accurate scale, before/after cleaning? I weigh my new barrels as a reference to detect leading.
Obviously you did a ton of work. Greatly appreciated. Could you do a cylinder test and de-leading.? I have a SW 686 for 7 rounds. Lead residue very stubborn. Which is the best for this kind of fouling? I really had to scrub with Hoppes. Thanks
Wantedt o thank you due to the fact that I have completely eliminated all sleep aid from my medicine cabinet!Seriously though the COPPER bore brush is what really cleans out any lead fouling.The solvents only really remove powder and any remaining residue from the primer ignition.
Neat Video!
Wondered if bronze brush may have added to or taken away from your results?
Thanks for sharing!!
I use Barnes C-10 it works great. They recommend using a nylon brush. Used it on an 1884 trap door springfield that was so fouled, it looked like a smooth bore. That bore looks really clean and shines.
glad to see the Hoppe's did so well. I just got a new bottle of the cleaner.
Been using Hoppes no. 9 …most of the time. Used Ballistol also. Both have worked great! I’m going to try CLP by Lucas soon. They make a great product for drag racing oil in my car, so, ill try it.
I regret that I just now found these videos. I have to tell you, this series you did is fantastic.
If you're getting leading in your barrel, the most effective thing to do is not just try to simply brush it out if you're shooting cast bullets through a pistol or rifle. Instead you need to be shooting cast bullets that match the throat in your gun. Fill up the barrel with the right size and you will create a good seal, thereby eliminating leading typically. For the rest, a Lewis lead remover or a few strands of an unraveled copper chore boy around your copper brush ran through the barrel dry will do wonders for removing any leading.
Marcus Cervantes Thank you so much for the information and the great tip!!!
***** Hopefully you aren't opposed to me giving a shameless plug here but if so feel free to delete it. There is a lead bullet seller that allows you to order and select the size that fits your bore. DardasCastBullets.Com. His webstore gives proper instruction on how to find your throat diameter and shoot cast bullets that seal the bore. There are other factors regarding some leading of the bore but for pistols, size and a good bullet lube will go a long, long way to preventing leading in the first place. When we talk about rifle bullets, those two are even more crucial, but at a certain point; usually 1500fps we need to consider adding a gascheck to the base of the bullet. That gas check will allow you to go all the way to 2400 ~ 2500fps without experiencing leading or a loss in performance. However, once we start to get past that speed; say 22-250, we need a full length gas check, or basically a jacketed bullet. Lead is just too soft and starts to break apart under those high speeds. Sorry to type a book there for ya, hope I had some interesting information for you.
Ballistol as an aerosol can get into places Hoppes cant, and that alone makes it desireable
Interesting. I would have to say that just rubbing a .22 bullet isn't quite enough to simulate lead fowling. I have tried a number of advertised "lead removers". I shoot almost exclusively cast lead bullets in my handguns. In the end, the easiest way I've found to remove lead fowling is good 'ol Chore Boy copper scrubbing pads. They are dirt cheap and incredibly effective.
***** I was always taught the old school mentality that you should never fire jacketed after lead. The theory is that should you badly foul the barrel with lead, then fire a jacketed round, it will over pressurize the chamber and can kaboom. I've actually seen several documented cases of this happening. It always happened with new bullet casters/reloaders who had BAD leading issues, and never had the sense to clean out the fouling.
I currently still get some very slight leading in my 9MM's. It's really more of a lead "smudge". It comes clean with 2-3 quick Chore-Boy passes. My .45's however, currently have several thousand rounds through them with nothing more than a oiled patch every 400 or so rounds. After a heavy range session they shine like new. Lead treats barrels very well.
Hans S. I was going to write the same thing, but if someone could offer a preparation that "eats lead" in a badly leaded barrel and not the steel, I would be interested.
Details: I was along with my daughter when she bought an old Mossberg 151K from 1950-51 and I swabbed the barrel with Hoppe's No. 9 and dried it with clean dry patches before she shot it, using .22 Aguila SuperExtra standard velocity 40 grain (lead, not copper coated bullets). I've never had a .22, so I was unaware of the copper coated option, so we bought what the store had. She fired around 300 rounds through it.
When I went to clean the barrel, I had a hard time getting a patch through it ahead of the chamber. Flecks of lead were on the dirty patches. I haven't been to a store to get any Chore Boy pads yet. In cleaning the action, the bolt had no wear marks on it and looked essentially new, as did the other parts of the gun.
Maybe it leaded so badly because the barrel hadn't been polished by rounds yet.
.
geoh7777 There are a number of things that could cause that, though I do not claim to be an expert. It may have already had a leaded barrel prior to your shooting it, as during that time almost all .22 rounds were non-jacketed. Also, though hopefully not, the barrel could be badly pitted from neglect, even if the bolt face and exterior were in good shape. I know most ammo from the past was corrosive, but I don't know if that pertains to .22 or not, and when they stopped using it. Corrosive ammo can chew up a barrel fast if not cleaned promptly. Chore boy is a good start, though I have never tried it on a bore as small as a .22. It will be a bit trickier. There are also several solvents designed just for lead. I have one made by Shooters Choice. I believe I got it from PalmettoStateArmory.com or maybe Gander Mt.
Hans S. Thanks for the help. but, after reading the reviews here: www.midwayusa.com/Product/398676/shooters-choice-lead-remover-bore-cleaning-solvent-4-oz-liquid
I'm going to get the Chore Boys and ry that out, and will be looking for pitting in that barrel.
.
Yes! A small piece Chore boy wrapped around a bore brush works better than anything else you will find. But there are some chore boy knock-off products that are actually copper coated steel. It you use one of the knockoffs check it with a magnet first!
Fred, Hoppes Ellite and M pro-7 are the exact same product,just marketed under different names.they are a bit harsh for blued finishes and can damage the finish,especially if left on too long..i generally would only use them to clean a heavily fouled barrel..
my personal favorite is Ballistol,this stuff is awsome and has become my favorite CLP..i highly recommend it..thanks for the great vid..
I use Butch's Bore Shine and I find it to be the best out of all the solvents I've ever tried. Don't know what all the fuss is about. Its aggressive so I only let soak for a minute or two, and clean as usual, then I use Birtchwood Casey's bore scrubber to remove any Butch's leftover. I love the stuff.... IMO, its the best stuff I've ever used for removing copper/lead other than JB compound.
this is the Best cleaning product video on you tube
Well Done. Great information came out of your "test". I have used Hoppe's No. 9 since I first bought my first gun. Good to know I chose a good cleaner.
By far the BEST stuff I have ever used on guns is a little known solvent called Strike Hold Solvent. It is WAY BETTER than Ballistal, CLP, or Hoppes#9! Lead just comes completely off of everything you spray it on! The funny thing is you never see the stuff except on Amazon. The reviews on it backs up what I’m saying about it too! No comparison to me!
I FrogLubed my Ar and G23. So far, so good. I did noticed carbon build up on my Ar bolt came off a lot easier...without my brass brush !
Thanks for the vid. Always remember No matter what or how you do something there will always be critics. Keep up the good work.
coatman545 Thank you so very much.
Fred that was an awesome video, always wondered how good hoppe's 9 was compared to the others because its all i have ever used. Now I know i'm using the best. Thanks
Phoenix Artisan Accouterments makes a shaving soap and aftershave that smells like Hoppe's #9.
If it attracts a women do you propose?
I think all it will attract is old farts like me.
I commend you on taking time to test all these products, if you buy something to do a job you want results not a bunch of fake words to sell products.
Note fred that on rough surface rust starts faster, so if there are any scratches, rusting starts there faster. maybe adding scratches into part of the squares would be good idea for more thorough testing.
Remington Bore Cleaner is actually a mild abrasive that is put into suspension when it is shaken. It's not a great solvent, it works by abrasive action. It is very effective at removing copper and lead but only if it is shaken first, to put the abrasive in suspension, and only if it is physically scrubbed over the fouling. It won't do anything if it is just left to sit on the lead. If the instructions on the bottle are followed it works very well.
Simple gree or hoppes to clean,ballisol to lube...good for wood too.
Good video, thanks for spending the money and taking the time to test these products.
Don't forget that part of what makes ballistol so great is that it is friendly to the wood!
There's a reason Hoppe's #9 has been around FOREVER,it WORKS!!!!!!!!!
Thank you for pronouncing Hoppe's correctly.
Did you remove the wax from the .22 projectile ? otherwise the first-rubbed square,( no. 3 ?) would have a higher-likelyhood of being easier to remove with a lube-barrier between the lead and plate
★★★★★
Awesome video Fred!!!!! I've been looking forward to another Plate Of Truth video! Your video ideas are the best!
Hoppe's 9 dominated
Mark Jaggers you expected anything else
Lol
Only one that worked without effort applied. Been using it for 28 years.
outers is really good , so is hoppes #9 , also ballistol. Rem oil is garbage , outers oil is much much better. It's not thick or watery. I prefer outers nitro solvent over hoppes , hoppes tends to stick around while the nitro solvent evaporates and leaves a very light coating of oil.
Thank you Fred, for conducting the test that I've always been too lazy to do myself. I'd be curious about Froglube too. I'd rub the lead on both metal that's been pre-treated with it as well as on bare metal. Then I'd try to remove the lead with more Froglube.
7:00 Ballistol - Good stuff!
Interesting. I would rather buy a can of lead remover and use standard cloth. Did you try removing the lead with just a rag or q-tip with no cleaner? Just to make sure it wouldn't come off? The lead removal cloths seem to really work.
What, no Shooter's Choice MC #7. I use Hoppe's 9 for cowboys shoots which is strictly soft lead and it works fine.
Interesting, I did a test of Sweet's 7.62 on an ordinance steel plate. Slobbed it on and left it in a moist basement. Checked periodically for a couple of months. Never noted any extra corrosion. Sweets 7.62 has more ammonia than any other cleaner. Once forgot and shook container before using it. The ammonia made my eyes water. It was so bad had to leave basement for awhile. Butch's Boreshine is great on copper fouling in centerfield rifles. Soak bore, use some patches and it will get it all out. Of course Hoppes #9 works great on bores also but Butch's seems to be faster and more through.
Hoppes elite and MPRO 7 I have heard are the same thing. Works good on powder residue etc. no so much on copper fouling.
I like foams better myself. For a quick clean you can just flood the barrel and grip, let it sit and then clean out with a rag or paper towel. Dont even need to field strip.
For a thorough clean you disassemble the gun, put the metal parts in ziplock bags and then fill them up with foam. (Within reason of course, no need to be wasteful.) Remove, wipe clean, all the gunk stays in the bag and you can toss it with almost no mess.
Great test Fred!!!!
I have had great success with M-Pro 7 products, I have both Hoppes No 9 Synthetic Blend and M-Pro 7, when I do not want to stink my house up I use M-Pro 7 and just quickly clean the firearm with the tired and true 3x rinse, scrub, wipe technique, and finish with my Hoppes silicone cloth on the exterior. With that I am done in about 5-10 minutes at most and its good to go.
When I want a thorough clean I use the Synthetic Blend Hoppes, and leave it on for about 10 minutes on the first "soaking". From there I wipe down, scrub, soak again for 5 minutes, and then, scrub, wipe down, then do an immediate soak scrub wipe, check the patches/pads and if it looks clean, I oil it with M-Pro 7 and wipe the exterior with a Hoppes silicone cloth, done. But this takes me about 30 minutes per firearm, ans I only do this about once every 1,000 rounds.
Some would suggest that the test procedure was flawed from the start...'cause of the absence of an opened can of beer or two. But, on the other hand, if'n you did employ a certain amt. of the suds ...first, ya may 'ave decided to chuck the test altogether. Just saying.
ditto! thanx for ur time, man...really appreciate it.
Gotta get some Hoppes 9 I have a Ruger 44mag that melts Oregon Trail Laser cast bullets like chesse on a pizza and they are supposed to be the hardest cast bulllets you can get. Thanks for the test
I tell folks just stick with the traditional Hoppe's #9. Still the best. Great vid, thanks.
Wipeout foaming bore cleaner is my cleaner of choice. Expensive, but, it works damn well.
Vinegar will strip bluing off a gun without effort. It will etch metal, too.
Yes sir. Hot vinegar makes etching easy
Hey fred thx for making this vid because not a lots of people like me can buy all these products try out and lucky i didn't mess up my gun now i know what good and whats not
Well over a century after it was originally created, good ol' Hoppes No. 9 still does it all.
That's a good test I wish you would do one with BLUE WONDER BORE CLEANER and SMITH&WESSON BORE GEL I have seen pretty good reviews online but you never know. I have some old military surpluse rifles that need a good clean hoppies number 9 just won't cut it. already tried and still looks dirty and not as shinny as my other bores.
Hoppes #9 is what I've used since I was a kid.
hoppes #9. Always my fav! Thanks for the time and effort you put into this Fred! :0)
@jsmonk Ballistol is infamous for its "odd" smell. I use it and it is great as an all arround/do everything cleaner, protectant,solvent. It does smell wierd though, and the smell tends to linger for a while. It isn't really chemical smelling, just weird.
where's this lead coming from ?? Most bullets now are copper clad are they not ???? In my experience, lead is removed by vigorus use of the brass bore brush with the cleaner acting as a releasing agent.
Actually, that was pretty useful demonstration to me as a .22 shooter. Most of the bulk ammunition that I'm most likely to put through the barrel is lead. And when it is not, the lead round has just a thin copper wash or other light coating on it.
FMJ bullets have an exposed lead base, which is atomized by the explosive heat and re deposits on the bore.
Why didn't you test Breakfree CLP? It can be found in almost every Walmart.
He was testing solvents, not cleaner/lubricator/protector blends
Perfect hd quality video. Nice job. I love my Ballistol. Will you ever do one on greases? That would include mil-comm, mil-tech, tetra grease and more? That would be awesome!
If every back and forth of your wiping represents a patch, you must go through hundreds of patches. Also Ballistol is sold as a CLP, not just a lubricant. You could tell you really wanted it to work. You seemed to rub it more and harder, and judged it awfully generously. I expected Hoppes and outers, which is repackaged forrest bore cleaner, and Butches Bore Shine to do well; the Outers because it was developed for the Finnish military for cleaning artillery and auto cannons, and I've used it, the Hoppes and Butches because Hoppes was developed when bare lead bullets were common, and Butches because it's a Hoppes analogue.
A cheap control would have been to use water, mineral oil, or nothing at all, just to see how effective the q-tips alone were.
One possibility in this test is that the lead is being polished, rather than removed. After a while, without a protective coating the lead will oxidize again.
Show the residue on the dirty q tips and tissue. Great information
@visaliku. In 22 caliber having a good lead remover is a must.
On my wat to pick up some cleaning supplies and thought I should see what people are using. Found your video and found it to be very well done and helpful. Thank you keep up the good work. Also interested in an oil test,not sure how you would test them though. I guess its back to good ol #9.
Hoppes seemed to get busy quick on number 13.
As long as you're willing to let it sit for a while, I still think Hoppes is the best. Gets rid of both copper and lead fouling. Good effort on your part, but you can't duplicate the firing of a lead bullet by rubbing a lead bullet on a steel surface. Not a criticism, but a fact. I would always recommend a two stage cleaning, with Hoppes first, let it sit, wipe it off, then apply any light gun oil. But, good video.