Thanks J. I’m not a car guy ( singer /guitar player ) A mechanic gave me a $700 estimate. Your vid gave me the confidence to at least see if it’s just a rusty supply line. Guys like you are the REAL rock stars !
Thanks for the video. I had the exact same repair with one exception, my daughter let the fluid run low for too long and it damaged the pump. So, new pump and that line. Dealer(Stealer) tried to tell me it needed the high pressure line and complete return line replaced + Pump and that this would cost $1,660. Said the HP line was $730.00. I told them to go jump in a lake!!! Dealers are ripoff artists!!! Took me about 3 hours because I could not get the upper pump pivot (belt adjuster) bolt out without a WD 40 war. Total cost with the pump $125 :) Thanks again, John
Great job John! Dealing with the accessories on these motors is a pain. Replacing the alternator isnt exactly a walk in the park like most cars due to the adjuster bolt. Its in a bad spot at a bad angle and rusted haha.
My Highlander's return line just rusted through and I went with this $7 brake line repair instead of $98 from the local parts store (and the part was out of stock). It worked awesome - thanks for the great idea! I little manhandling and a 30" 3/8 line works beautifully.
Thats awesome Troy!! Thanks for letting me know the video helped. I was hoping someone would get some help from it. Those lines rust out on every one of those Highlanders it seems. I heard of one shop quoting almost $200 to fix this. I guess thats not horrible, but its not a bad job.
Hey. I just wanted to thank you for the low down. Last night went to drive mine powers steering pump was super loud and steering was rough. Parked. Got the break line this morning and BAM all good. Thanks again
Hardest part is exposing the line... the plastic sheilds are interwoven around the bumper, only a few broken clips... but it seems easier than replacing with the $100 part. Thanks for the great fix, just what I was looking for and saved some money!
Very helpful, wish I saw this before I tried to fix mine. Ended up cleaning and coating the old tube with epoxy so it took a bit longer but with the same effect, though I forgot to clamp it down cause the clamps fell off, so now I have the same problem again 🙃
Great video! Little tip for safety always immediately place the wheel and tire you remove underneath the vehicle close to where you are working but just out of the way. In a catastrophic failure of the lifting technique you are using it will give you precious space that could save your life. Be safe and "if the women don't find you handsome they should at least find you handy"
Great tips. Thanks for posting this video. My 2003 Highlander return hose is rusted & leaking near the front bumper 10mm bolt down. Found whole return hose for about $35 with shipping, so I will opt for that rather then bending my own. I will replace mine next chance I get. Thanks for the details!
Thank for posting this. It is indeed really cheap and I would have preferred using this Dorman part. However, I ended up doing what the fellow did in the video (with the generic fuel line) and it worked out. Should it leak again, I will use the part you suggested. Thanks for taking the time to find and post this.
I had the same issue, but I had trouble fabricating the pipe (accidentally kinked it). Instead, I used a metal brush on a drill to expose the bare metal in the areas that are corroded and soldered it. So far so good!
Update- the solder didn't hold fully or it didn't quite cover it perfectly. Since it's going from rubber to metal, I'm just gonna do rubber the whole way, if that fails, get a pipe Bender and try again what the op was doing.
Worked. Kinked the line a lil and real hard to get metal into rubber, but worked great. CAUTION: do not turn car on when turning steering wheel back and forth after fill. Air gets in. After air out and full, pull out old fluid fr fill tank with turkey baster & refill sev times, each time turning wheel... clean fluid...
Thanks! Your page is what came up with a google search. I pulled off the front right wheel and a puddle of fluid was present just as in your video. Same exact spot. I removed the bolt and separated hose on the left. The right was too difficult to access and the bold holding the bracket looked pretty rusty. I suspect it would have broke off, so used a small pipe cutter and cut off the line to the right of the strut where the line was in good shape. The now loose piece of metal hose was reversed and used where disconnected on the left, after cutting off the bad section. I made up the difference with some old stiff 3/8th fuel line, used stainless clamps on all ends and so far so good. Also, with the keys in the ignition and steering wheel unlocked, and both tires off the ground - moved the tire left to right until all the bubbles came out. Don't know if that was needed but the steering was completely back to normal when starting the car back up. Total cost, stainless hose clamps, quart of PS fluid, old fuel line hose - less than 10 dollars. Thanks again.
Great video. Just did my 2003 highlander. Greattttttt. Also you can do the same thing with the line that comes out from reservoir into this line.... just buy a 3/8 × 40inch. Works great. Saved money on this.
Thank you so much bro I ended up doing the same thing except my hose was maybe only 8 inches of metal but I used a brake line like u said so maybe someone else rigged it up before but regardless bro u helped me fix something I wouldve taken to the garage and probably spent $300 on at the garage so u helped me alot thank u so much man!!!! God bless!!!
It's so easy even a women can do it. Jkjk, I mean following your directions anyone can do it as long as they have a few tools on hand. I got mine off and I'm headed to the part store to buy a new break line to replace it with.
Thankyou, seems that the weak point in these highlanders are all the same. Transfer tubes on the power steering racks are another big problem if you live in a place where they use road salt. I have ordered two complete racks from the southern USA at a cost of about $150 each delivered through ebay. When they arrive i just exchange the lines instead of pulling the whole rack. If need be, the rack can be removed without the removing all the parts the book has listed and it saves hours of labour. You just need a mechanic that has the know how.
I’m having to refill my reservoir every several days but I’m not seeing any apparent leak on the driveway so maybe it only happens when it’s driving. What about replacing the rubber lines while you’re at it? You mentioned noise I hear some noise that may be when the power steering fluid is low. Is that what you were hearing? Thanks for the video
Hey man thank you for this! So you push the flared metal piece into the rubber hose and then put both clamps in front of the flare? How has this held up for you? Thanks again
Yup you got it. For clamps to work, you need to have a flare or bubble so they dont slip off. This is just the return line, so no real pressure, but still a good idea. And I have no idea how its holding up...we sold it a while back. But it never dripped again as long as I owned it!!
Oh my gosh I hate Toyota for this particular system! Yes this is an intricate and overly complicated system. I think the power steering lines were the last group at Toyota to install their system. They said hey group the car is completely assembled. All we need is for you guys to put in the power steering lines and reservoir. So that is how it got so screwed up. I just spent most of the day removing the high pressure line and the return lines on my 04 HL. New parts are ordered but it was no fun removing. I am not even sure what the best way is to put the new ones back in. Problem I saw was usually when one area goes bad after years the rest of the lines are in the same shape. Can't do what you did on the high pressure line. Those rubber parts on the high pressure line have an accordion metal line within the very thick rubber line. Thanks for posting this. Have you had to do any more work with your HL power steering since this repair?
Lasted until we sold it! It's a solid fix... It's important to note this was the return line though. If your pressure hose is leaking, your only choice is to replace it with a proper hose. Return line though...this will work fine for a long time!
@@JEGsGarage yes my return line rusted just like yours. Got all the materials and gonna do it today. Seems pretty straight forward! I appreciate your video
I did it to be safe. It's a return line, so you may be able to get away with one clamp. Anytime I fix a trans line or PS line, as long as it isn't the pressure line, I double clamp.
These are double flares. They are somewhat rounded on the edges. I don't think it would cut into it, and if it did, it would take a long time. At least, I've never had that issue... I guess anything is possible haha.
Im sorry for the delayed response! That is brake line from the parts store. I folded/bent/molded it by hand! Its pretty easy to bend just be careful not to kink it.
@@spdrmonkey01 I mean, you might get away with smaller diameter, but I would keep it at 3/8 as that is the size of the original line. Would hate to create a flow or pressure issue because of a restriction to the return.
my highlander power steering has a leak somewhere.....in 2014 it also had a leak the mechanic said power steering....now there is a leak again but i looks like somewhere on the line.....i live in los angeles so im sure its not because of rust....will inpect it tomorrow
Yeah probably not a lot of rust on that thing...but you never know. The materials/lines coudl just have been faulty. Ive seen that plenty of times before. The hard thing is finding the leak, because the fluid blows all over the place while driving. You almost havea to clean it all off really good, then let it idle and see if you can see where its starting.
finally found it. its the high pressure hose the part where the crimp is where its leaking. the big problem is the very tight space. my hand alone without a tool cannot go in... will need to figure out which parts to move to gain access to the high pressure side hose
Does anyone know the purpose of the hard pipe? Is there any reason you couldn’t use a high heat rubber hose assuming you keep the hose away from moving parts?
Im sure it can. Regardless, it will blow back and coat whatever it hits on its way to the rear of the vehicle. There is a LOT of stuff for the fluid to lay on and come into contact with.
You better hope the bad coil is 2,4, or 6! 1,3,& 5 are a bitch. And the car won't run when one goe out. If it is 2, 4, or 6, it's the easiest thing you'll ever fix on this model
It has flow back to the reservoir. So I guess it has some pressure. But it's certainly not much. Not enough to spray out with a pinhole. Compared to the high side it's barely anything :)
I'm sure it was. It had almost 250k miles on it and I just sold it for more than I expected. I was even rediculously honest in the ad haha. People like these things still.
Thanks J. I’m not a car guy ( singer /guitar player ) A mechanic gave me a $700 estimate. Your vid gave me the confidence to at least see if it’s just a rusty supply line. Guys like you are the REAL rock stars !
Thanks for the video. I had the exact same repair with one exception, my daughter let the fluid run low for too long and it damaged the pump. So, new pump and that line. Dealer(Stealer) tried to tell me it needed the high pressure line and complete return line replaced + Pump and that this would cost $1,660. Said the HP line was $730.00. I told them to go jump in a lake!!! Dealers are ripoff artists!!! Took me about 3 hours because I could not get the upper pump pivot (belt adjuster) bolt out without a WD 40 war.
Total cost with the pump $125 :)
Thanks again,
John
Great job John! Dealing with the accessories on these motors is a pain. Replacing the alternator isnt exactly a walk in the park like most cars due to the adjuster bolt. Its in a bad spot at a bad angle and rusted haha.
John Wallner q
My Highlander's return line just rusted through and I went with this $7 brake line repair instead of $98 from the local parts store (and the part was out of stock). It worked awesome - thanks for the great idea! I little manhandling and a 30" 3/8 line works beautifully.
Thats awesome Troy!! Thanks for letting me know the video helped. I was hoping someone would get some help from it. Those lines rust out on every one of those Highlanders it seems. I heard of one shop quoting almost $200 to fix this. I guess thats not horrible, but its not a bad job.
Hey. I just wanted to thank you for the low down. Last night went to drive mine powers steering pump was super loud and steering was rough. Parked. Got the break line this morning and BAM all good. Thanks again
Awesome Thomas! Glad to hear the video helped get you back on the road.
This hint is priceless. I am determind to have fun fixing mine myself. Thanks for sharing.
Hardest part is exposing the line... the plastic sheilds are interwoven around the bumper, only a few broken clips... but it seems easier than replacing with the $100 part. Thanks for the great fix, just what I was looking for and saved some money!
Great video, thank you for the down and dirty look at this fix. Doing mine this week.👍🏻
Very helpful, wish I saw this before I tried to fix mine.
Ended up cleaning and coating the old tube with epoxy so it took a bit longer but with the same effect, though I forgot to clamp it down cause the clamps fell off, so now I have the same problem again 🙃
Great video! Little tip for safety always immediately place the wheel and tire you remove underneath the vehicle close to where you are working but just out of the way. In a catastrophic failure of the lifting technique you are using it will give you precious space that could save your life. Be safe and "if the women don't find you handsome they should at least find you handy"
I drive an 05 highlander, and my power steering went bad. I can’t wait to try this after work. Thanks for the video!
So do I I’m thinking of trying how did it go
Great tips. Thanks for posting this video. My 2003 Highlander return hose is rusted & leaking near the front bumper 10mm bolt down. Found whole return hose for about $35 with shipping, so I will opt for that rather then bending my own. I will replace mine next chance I get. Thanks for the details!
Where did you get the whole return hose for so little? It's over $200 here (from the dealer).
IncandescentDaD try this link, www.carid.com/dorman/oe-solutions-power-steering-line-return-hose-mpn-979-116.html
IncandescentDaD install was straightforward, and perfect fit
Thank for posting this. It is indeed really cheap and I would have preferred using this Dorman part. However, I ended up doing what the fellow did in the video (with the generic fuel line) and it worked out. Should it leak again, I will use the part you suggested. Thanks for taking the time to find and post this.
@@markandrake4624what is that?
I had the same issue, but I had trouble fabricating the pipe (accidentally kinked it). Instead, I used a metal brush on a drill to expose the bare metal in the areas that are corroded and soldered it. So far so good!
Update- the solder didn't hold fully or it didn't quite cover it perfectly. Since it's going from rubber to metal, I'm just gonna do rubber the whole way, if that fails, get a pipe Bender and try again what the op was doing.
@@cheypate2098 did the rubber tube hold up?
Thanks for sharing! For me I think its worth paying $150 for the correct part. Your time is $$.
Glad it worked for you!
Worked. Kinked the line a lil and real hard to get metal into rubber, but worked great. CAUTION: do not turn car on when turning steering wheel back and forth after fill. Air gets in. After air out and full, pull out old fluid fr fill tank with turkey baster & refill sev times, each time turning wheel... clean fluid...
Thanks for the comment Tom! Glad you got it sorted.
I appreciate the insight on the return line , I hope that’s where my leak is happening.gonna check first thing tomorrow,thank you
Thanks! Your page is what came up with a google search.
I pulled off the front right wheel and a puddle of fluid was present just as in your video. Same exact spot. I removed the bolt and separated hose on the left. The right was too difficult to access and the bold holding the bracket looked pretty rusty. I suspect it would have broke off, so used a small pipe cutter and cut off the line to the right of the strut where the line was in good shape. The now loose piece of metal hose was reversed and used where disconnected on the left, after cutting off the bad section. I made up the difference with some old stiff 3/8th fuel line, used stainless clamps on all ends and so far so good.
Also, with the keys in the ignition and steering wheel unlocked, and both tires off the ground - moved the tire left to right until all the bubbles came out. Don't know if that was needed but the steering was completely back to normal when starting the car back up. Total cost, stainless hose clamps, quart of PS fluid, old fuel line hose - less than 10 dollars. Thanks again.
Glad the video helped!!
Thanks alot my 04 highlander took a piss on the driveway yesterday. Gonna go pick up that part now. Thanks again.
Awesome!! $20 ?!! Worth a shot!
Great video. Just did my 2003 highlander. Greattttttt.
Also you can do the same thing with the line that comes out from reservoir into this line.... just buy a 3/8 × 40inch.
Works great. Saved money on this.
Thank you soo much! Have this exact problem on my highlander.
Thank you so much bro I ended up doing the same thing except my hose was maybe only 8 inches of metal but I used a brake line like u said so maybe someone else rigged it up before but regardless bro u helped me fix something I wouldve taken to the garage and probably spent $300 on at the garage so u helped me alot thank u so much man!!!! God bless!!!
Thanks for the video - for sure I can do this....with the help of this video - very kind of you!
Thanks mate for the power steering video great help
It's so easy even a women can do it. Jkjk, I mean following your directions anyone can do it as long as they have a few tools on hand. I got mine off and I'm headed to the part store to buy a new break line to replace it with.
Awesome!!! It's really not hard. Just take your time, make the bends as neat as you can, and double check for leaks. Good to go.
Thank you for this video. Saved me a ton.
Thanks! Just the fix I was looking for.
Thank you for this video too save me a lot of money thank you again
Thankyou, seems that the weak point in these highlanders are all the same. Transfer tubes on the power steering racks are another big problem if you live in a place where they use road salt. I have ordered two complete racks from the southern USA at a cost of about $150 each delivered through ebay. When they arrive i just exchange the lines instead of pulling the whole rack. If need be, the rack can be removed without the removing all the parts the book has listed and it saves hours of labour. You just need a mechanic that has the know how.
I’m having to refill my reservoir every several days but I’m not seeing any apparent leak on the driveway so maybe it only happens when it’s driving. What about replacing the rubber lines while you’re at it? You mentioned noise I hear some noise that may be when the power steering fluid is low. Is that what you were hearing? Thanks for the video
Same here
Hey man thank you for this! So you push the flared metal piece into the rubber hose and then put both clamps in front of the flare? How has this held up for you? Thanks again
Yup you got it. For clamps to work, you need to have a flare or bubble so they dont slip off. This is just the return line, so no real pressure, but still a good idea. And I have no idea how its holding up...we sold it a while back. But it never dripped again as long as I owned it!!
Very good job thank you helpful. Keep up the good works. God bless ❤
did you empty the reservoir before replacing the part then refill with new PS fluid?
Honestly I can't remember...but I don't think so. Either that or it all leaked out before I did this lol.
I got the replacement part for cheaper than list price. This video helped me recognize and fix the return hose. Thank you JEG'S Garage!
Glad the video helped Steven!
Thanks for the video, Ive got to fix mine today!
Hope it helps! Its not a bad job considering what the replacement parts cost and what paying someone else to do it would cost!!
Oh my gosh I hate Toyota for this particular system! Yes this is an intricate and overly complicated system. I think the power steering lines were the last group at Toyota to install their system. They said hey group the car is completely assembled. All we need is for you guys to put in the power steering lines and reservoir. So that is how it got so screwed up. I just spent most of the day removing the high pressure line and the return lines on my 04 HL. New parts are ordered but it was no fun removing. I am not even sure what the best way is to put the new ones back in. Problem I saw was usually when one area goes bad after years the rest of the lines are in the same shape. Can't do what you did on the high pressure line. Those rubber parts on the high pressure line have an accordion metal line within the very thick rubber line. Thanks for posting this. Have you had to do any more work with your HL power steering since this repair?
Great idea and video Thanks bro!!!
There’s two hoses: 44406-48111 and 44406-48092. Any idea which one you replaced?
No idea... because I didn't replace them with a part number. I just used generic line.
Has this fix lasted this long? I have to drive 23 hours for college in august and hoping I can do this today and it’ll last!
Lasted until we sold it! It's a solid fix... It's important to note this was the return line though. If your pressure hose is leaking, your only choice is to replace it with a proper hose. Return line though...this will work fine for a long time!
@@JEGsGarage yes my return line rusted just like yours. Got all the materials and gonna do it today. Seems pretty straight forward! I appreciate your video
Good idea and it worked
Do you have to double clamp each end where the rubber hose goes over the brake line?
I did it to be safe. It's a return line, so you may be able to get away with one clamp. Anytime I fix a trans line or PS line, as long as it isn't the pressure line, I double clamp.
Thank you.
Thank You 😁
You're welcome 😊
nice job but i have one concern .I would worry about the flares cutting into the rubber line eventually .
These are double flares. They are somewhat rounded on the edges. I don't think it would cut into it, and if it did, it would take a long time. At least, I've never had that issue... I guess anything is possible haha.
The flares won't hurt it at all . They're smooth to the touch & the hoses are nice & thick.
I cut out the bad section and replace with a hose.
That will work too!
Great video! !!!
Thanks Mickey!
Hey. sorry for the english. I have a Highlander 2004. Tell me, how did you fold that pipe? What is this pipe in the store for?
Im sorry for the delayed response! That is brake line from the parts store. I folded/bent/molded it by hand! Its pretty easy to bend just be careful not to kink it.
Ty,will try mańana!
Thanks. Just saved me $!
Glad the video helped Tom!
I cut the end of the line slid off the nuts and reflaired it with a hammer and nail set.
Awesome
Does the line have to be 3/8?
@@spdrmonkey01 I mean, you might get away with smaller diameter, but I would keep it at 3/8 as that is the size of the original line. Would hate to create a flow or pressure issue because of a restriction to the return.
@@JEGsGarage thanks for the quick reply!
helpful, thank you
my highlander power steering has a leak somewhere.....in 2014 it also had a leak the mechanic said power steering....now there is a leak again but i looks like somewhere on the line.....i live in los angeles so im sure its not because of rust....will inpect it tomorrow
Yeah probably not a lot of rust on that thing...but you never know. The materials/lines coudl just have been faulty. Ive seen that plenty of times before. The hard thing is finding the leak, because the fluid blows all over the place while driving. You almost havea to clean it all off really good, then let it idle and see if you can see where its starting.
finally found it. its the high pressure hose the part where the crimp is where its leaking. the big problem is the very tight space. my hand alone without a tool cannot go in... will need to figure out which parts to move to gain access to the high pressure side hose
Does anyone know the purpose of the hard pipe? Is there any reason you couldn’t use a high heat rubber hose assuming you keep the hose away from moving parts?
Ryan Bradford yes you could. But you would have to be extra careful not to let it get into the accessories. The hard tube makes it easy to route.
Can this leak on the exhaust?
Im sure it can. Regardless, it will blow back and coat whatever it hits on its way to the rear of the vehicle. There is a LOT of stuff for the fluid to lay on and come into contact with.
You better hope the bad coil is 2,4, or 6! 1,3,& 5 are a bitch. And the car won't run when one goe out. If it is 2, 4, or 6, it's the easiest thing you'll ever fix on this model
What's the proper name of that line?
Power steering return line.
I just hope its not a blown pump and that is what my problem is
It's not correct to say that this line has "NO" pressure just because it's not the HI pressure line. It is in fact the low pressure line.
It has flow back to the reservoir. So I guess it has some pressure. But it's certainly not much. Not enough to spray out with a pinhole. Compared to the high side it's barely anything :)
Liquid will not flow uphill without pressure.
Your control arm looks a bit worn.
I'm sure it was. It had almost 250k miles on it and I just sold it for more than I expected. I was even rediculously honest in the ad haha. People like these things still.