Toyota / Lexus Rack And Pinion Replacement - Power Steering Fluid Leak?
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- Опубликовано: 26 сен 2024
- This video will show you how I replaced a leaking rack and pinion assembly on a 2006 Toyota Avalon. Lexus and Toyota vehicles generally have the same layout design with differences in the location of the power steering fluid supply and return connection points on the assembly. Aside from that, the assembly's two mounting points are on the sub frame.
The customer noticed a constant fluid drop in his power steering reservoir along with noise emanating from his power steering pump when the fluid level dropped too low. The inner tie rod seals from both the left and right side of the rack were leaking into the accordion tie rod dust boots. Power steering fluid leakage was verified by removing the boot's outer compression clamps followed by squeezing the boots (as shown in the video). After months of replenishing the reservoir with power steering fluid containing a stop leak additive did not help stop the leakage.
A re-manufactured replacement rack and pinion assembly was purchased in lieu of replacing worn, leaking seals. The time and effort to replace the seals along with new boots and inner tie rods didn't seem worth it. The cost of the re-manufactured unit can vary between $250 to $600. The labor time can vary based on your tools and skill level.
After installation of a new assembly, a front end toe wheel alignment is required.
If you'd like to make a donation to the channel, please follow the link below: paypal.me/Hard...
Parts & Specialty Tools:
Permatex 22058 Dielectric Tune-Up Grease, 3 oz. Tube
amzn.to/35ssM7K
GEARWRENCH 3 Pc. Double-X Hose Grip Plier Set - 82107
amzn.to/3gYhVDM
Car Hose Removal Plier Tool - Angled Auto Fuel and Vacuum Line Tube Hose Remover - Separator Pliers Pipe Repairing Tool
amzn.to/3dBV1jw
Dynamic 3/8" Drive 10 Piece Metric, Flare Nut Socket Set, 10mm -19mm
amzn.to/3dF25fA
MOUNTAIN 5 PC Metric Flexible Reversible RATCHETING Wrench
amzn.to/2UcCLG0
REBUILT RACK AND PINION UNITS:
Cardone 26-1690 Remanufactured Import Power Rack and Pinion Unit
amzn.to/3DAU4Xn
LEXUS ES300 1997-1998
TOYOTA AVALON 1997-1999
TOYOTA CAMRY 1992-1999
Cardone 26-2606 Remanufactured Import Power Rack and Pinion Unit
LEXUS ES300 2002-2003
LEXUS ES330 2004-2006
TOYOTA CAMRY 2002-2006
TOYOTA SOLARA 2004-2008
amzn.to/3gXeYn2
Cardone 26-1617 Remanufactured Import Power Rack and Pinion Unit
LEXUS ES300 1999-2001
TOYOTA AVALON 2000-2004
TOYOTA CAMRY 2000-2001
amzn.to/309vRVN
Cardone 26-2632 Remanufactured Import Power Rack and Pinion Unit
TOYOTA AVALON 2005-2012
amzn.to/3eTfS2g
Cardone 26-2630 Remanufactured Import Power Rack and Pinion Unit
LEXUS ES350 2007-2012
TOYOTA CAMRY 2007-2011
amzn.to/378WU4X
#toyotarackandpinion #rackandpinion #powersteeringleak
Ok, this is the first time I'm hearing about this method of removal of a sway bar link when you don't spin the nut, but spin the spindle inside instead. This is a brilliant idea!
Thanks. Spinning the link spindle with my power impact tool makes the removal go faster!
One of the best videos I've seen on an auto repair! Thank you.
Thanks!
Great video! Very well-edited with quiet, sped-up periods running through bolt tightening, etc, but slowing down to explain the more subtle parts. Perfect overview. Great tips from someone who clearly has a feel for the "body english" involved!
Glad you enjoyed it and thanks for your critique!
Best instructional video I’ve seen on this topic ! Very well made and thoughtfully put together ! Thanks !!
Yes sir great job great video - what’s your opinion on rebuilt rnp replacements ?
Thanks, great video! I'm getting ready to do my daughter's 2004 Camry. Very similar, but a bit less space in there vs. your Avalon. For those asking about rebuilding or replacing seals, I watched a guy do it in a video earlier today. He was experienced and it took him an hour to do it on the bench. Several steps looked very touchy, plus he had the special tools. Also, several commenters stated that the cost of the parts was almost as much as buying a rebuilt one from Cardone. I'm buying the rebuilt unit.
Thanks for sharing! Your right. A lot of work involved in rebuilding these racks. Can't go wrong with a Cardone rebuild.
Wow taping the steering wheel instead of using a seatbelt or a steering wheel lock to protect the clock spring that is a great idea! I had to comment after seeing this. It’s always the little things that matter the most. Great tip I am doing this job tomorrow and I will definitely use this tip on all future racks I do in the future.
I say improvise when you don't have the ideal tool.
Thank you for this great, detailed dummy prove instructional video. I have a 2010 Lexus ES 350 and I was able to do this job on my own. Thanks to you I completed the install in 7 hours, maybe twice as long as anybody else but nevertheless completed by a novice. I felt so accomplished and proud of myself. Thank you
Thanks for sharing your repair experience and thumbs up you did it on your own using this video as a guide! 👍
My next used car will be coming from another state. The amount of rust and frozen bolts on my 2005 Highlander was crazy. This video was extremely helpful. Thank you .
Thanks for sharing! One of the benefits of living down South. Less rust and frozen bolts!
Best instructional video I've ever seen👏🏽👏🏽👏🏽👏🏽
Thanks!
Rarely do you find an instructional video of such quality. A+ Thank you!
Thanks for your kind comment and critique. It's greatly appreciated!
My alignment shop did the same thing to my R's boot! Thank you for pointing that out. Great video!
You bet!
Great video. I'm a DYI'er and with this video i have the confidence to take this project on. Thank you! Should save me about $700-1000 in labor. When things are going well for a mechanic, i can see how the job is almost zen like and relaxing.
Good luck!
Really well done instructional video - really appreciated where you did the freeze frames and added the superimposed red arrows, etc. to point out and highlight specific nuts and bolts! Just finished watching another YT video where the camera was moving so much in a herky-jerky fashion that I was getting motion-sick. Plus that other guy never lingered and focused on any key steps or parts but just kept moving the camera from here to there. (In addition, he left out key steps like immobilizing the steering wheel in the centered dead-ahead orientation.)
I am planning on hopefully just replacing the mounting bushings on my rack, but if I need to replace the whole rack, yours will be my go-to reference video. Thanks, man.
Thanks for sharing your critique on the video! Do appreciate it!
You are amazing. Best mechanic skills best photography skills best organizational skills these videos are super.
Thanks for your support and critique!
My avalon's steering rack has about 3/4" of play side to side. Getting ready to replace it next weekend. Thanks for the video, very clear instructions.
Let us know how it turned out!
@@hardlymovingpro finally getting to it now. My car was from the north east, so it's been a hell of a job with all the rust so far.
ended up having to remove the feed and return line after removing the rack since the nut rusted to the line. with some heat and pb blaster i got it loose. once again, thanks for the vid, very helpful
I have to do this job on my car next weekend. Thanks very much for putting this together. Makes it so much easier to see it done, as well as what tools you used.
Glad it helped and let us know how it worked out!
How did the job go was it easy?
Thanks for checking back with me. Yes, the repair went smoothly. I appreciate the tips in your video about replacing the o rings on the hoses from the power steering pump. Mine were definitely at the end of their life. I saved a lot of money doing the repair myself. It's not an easy repair on this car, but your video gave me confidence that I could do it. Thanks again for taking the time to create this content and share it with everyone on RUclips. @@AhhBhris
Fantastic job on this video. I don't think I would have thought to tape the steering wheel. Great tip!
You bet!
My 06 Avalon uses ATF for power steering fluid. The fluid you drained looks like power steering fluid or brake fluid. Thanks for making this video I am ready to change my rack now👍
Power steering fluid is clear and comes that way from the factory. ATF is red, same as ps fluid but with additives for a transmission.
Thanks for this video. I noticed there was oil in the inner Tie rod Boot so I’m going to install a new Rack and pinion. This video definitely gave me the courage to try it on my own. I’ll will post an update comment once I’m done with the job 🙏
Good for you and keep us posted!
Am getting charged a thousand dollars plus to get mine replaced(2009 Toyota Avalon limited)
This video was really helpful. Will have to change mine myself
Yup ... the repair shops are charging ridiculous big bucks to replace them.
Excellent video! Good thing you fixed that alignment shop screw-up.
Yes, thanks!
i like the fact that you show what you do to take it off, video for my model they show before and after and now there is not enough room to take it out myself, too close to transmission.. infiniti g37xs awd '09
Thanks for sharing!
Very clear and helpful video! Thanks! I have a 2007 Avalon with a leaky rack & pinion.
Glad it helped you out!
What was the issue? Mine is also leaking right now is it the rack and pinion?
Just discovered this as well on my recently purchased ‘08 when replacing front struts 🥲
This was a great video by the way and will be very helpful in replacing my 2004 RX330 rack.
Glad it was helpful!
Great step by step explanation, thank you!
You bet!
Great camera work! Great tutorial! Thank you so much!
Glad you enjoyed it!
Thanks for detail REMOVE Rack, I do that job last month with my FORD FIESTA Replace bushes pinion, & both rack end thanks again.
Glad to help!
Great diy video with super clear instructions. Timing is perfect as my Avalon is leaving stains on the street LOL. The discussion on PS fluid versus ATF is interesting
Thanks for your post and support!
This type of job requires a lot of experiences. Always enjoy your videos.
Thanks 👍
You sure got the experience and the skill.
Thanks!
Great tutorial , hope you are fine. Greatings from Poland
Hey, thanks!
I think the most difficult part of this job is getting the mounting fasteners loose on the drivers-side. My wife's Solara had a slight leak from the boot, so I figured I'd replace the rack. No matter what I did, I couldn't get that bolt loose on the drivers side. Even purchased a 4-foot breaker bar, but the problem you run into is that there's simply no room to turn it!!
Being as OCD as I am, I cringed a little bit when I saw the second box-end wrench engage the open-end of the first wrench. But, you were able to get the fastener loose, and I wasn't! I added some seal conditioner and changed the boots on both sides. Fortunately after 2-years, I haven't had an issues.
But for anyone trying to do this themselves, I'd suggest getting that mounting bolt from the drivers-side loose. Once you pass that step, you should be able to finish.
Thank You for another outstanding video!
Hey Terry ... long time, no comments! Was thinking about you. I figured this video would solicit a comment! If you get yourself in a situation with a really tough nut, use heat from a propane torch. It'll help relieve the thread tension between the nut and bolt. I do it all the time with exhaust components since heat has a way of making metal hard and brittle.
FYI - This is what the pros and I use for tight spots that need a lot of torque. Should take care of your driver's side nut. The ratchet heads are indexed and have a reverse direction tab: amzn.to/2UcCLG0
Good Point! I don't think I applied heat to it!
I purchased similar one's, but thought that flex-head would snap right off. Will give it a try next time. Thank you!
www.amazon.com/gp/product/B008FXN0VK/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
@@terryzak1742 Looks similar to the Mountains but more expensive?
Thanks for all your videos on the Toyotas I use them to work on my 2002 es300
Glad to help!
Wow you did an excellent job documenting this whole job. You gave me confidence to tackle it myself. Do you recall the make of the steering rack you used?
Thanks ... the make was Cardone.
Did you ever get around to doing it?
I used this video and I was successful! Thanks so much!
Fantastic!
Great video. The model for what all diy videos should be like
Thanks! Glad you liked it!
Great video for my first steering rack replacement... But I didn't center the rack..had to tear back into it. thought the new unit would be centered from the company... but it wasnt
At Least you eventually got the job done.
How do i center mine.i think i messed up there
@@judetoyota9099 there are a couple vids here on RUclips you can check out. Basically you unmount the tie rods..get in the car turn the wheel all the way to one side and then the other and count how many revolutions the wheel turns then figure out the middle and turn the wheel that many times. Example. If you're all the way to the right and you turn it 12 times to get all the way left,you then turn it 6 times to get it in the middle which would be close to centered. The alignment shop will fine tune it from there.
@each1teachonetruth thanks.i will do that thanks alot.👍
This was so helpful! Thank you so much!!
Glad it was helpful!
Thank you
I appreciate your time in making this video.
You bet!
The best, short and sweet VDO ever. Keep up the good work. Sense of humor of baby born is the stress relief. Your accent is might be Vietnamese or Chinese may be Cambodian? Just joking, excellent work overall.
You bet!
This looks exactly like the rack in our 08 Sienna that I had to replace for the exact same reason - chronic fluid leaks. Toyota had a recall on these up to 2007, but they had this problem well beyond then.
Substandard seals IMHO.
Great! Best video of this kind I've seen!
Glad you enjoyed it!
Great video great editing 👍
Thanks for your comment and glad you liked it! My video editing partner put a lot of work into this video.
Just fantastic as always.👍💪🏻
Thanks!
My son's car had a small leak and he was adding regular power steering fluid and within two month the leak got really bad and now needs replaced. After discussing with several different people, I found out that the seals require dextron III and preferably IV to keep them from degrading and leaking. The synthetic fluid breaks down the seals.
First time I've heard of syn fluids braking down seals.
Great video 👍🏼
Thanks for sharing your knowledge.
You bet!
NO shocker with the shitty alignment shop work, another great video, you know your stuff.
Thanks!
Wow, you make it seem so easy, Thank you!
Thanks! Took me around 3 hrs
Greetings for you from Iraq
روح اسرح بنعاج وللك شتسوي ب افلون اشتري سايبه :)
شكرا جزيلا لك. الحمدلله لدي لكزس موديل ٢٠١٥. الاناء ينضح بما فيه يا صديقي
Beautiful video
Good job
Thank you! Cheers!
The way you removed and reinstalled all the connections/components clearly shows you have long experience doing mechanics stuff. I have never replaced a thing under the hood before but am embracing myself to replace a rack & pinion of my 2011 Toyota Camry SE model. Would this process be the same or Avalons and Camrys have different architecture around that rack? Thank you very much.
The architectural difference may only be in the power steering oil line connection points. The rest is the same with respect to the rack being mounted in the subframe.
@@hardlymovingpro Ok great, thank you! Will try it over the weekend.
Have fun and good luck!
excellent video! Thanks!
You bet!
I have 2003 Camry V6, I believed high pressure transfer tube(s) burst out due to road salt in Canada north. Do I need to take whole rack out to change transfer tube line or can be changed under the car? I am afraid all bolts /pipe nuts are rusted and impossible to remove whole rack assembly.
BTW, great video... Thanks
If you're referring to the tubes connected to the steering rack, you can possibly fix it by cutting out a few inches of the leaking tube and replace it with a new line connected with compression fittings. Take the cut out tube to an auto retailer like AdvanceAuto and they'll help you with a matching diameter tube with the right size compression fittings.
@@hardlymovingpro There are 2 transfer tubes for left and right side and both on the rack assembly. Likely I have to replace whole tubing due to rusting condition. Thanks for your suggestion
I do believe they sell replacement tubes. Try rockauto.com.
Awesome vid! Thanks!
You bet!
Great video. Thanks for sharing. Going to tackle this job later this week. The only thing I see in the video is that it appears the sway bar bushing bracket was removed. I didn’t see that step but it definitely looks like it. Do you have to remove the sway bar bushing bracket. Seems like very little clearance to get those bolts out.
Thanks! I detached the stabilizer bar link; not the bar bushing.
Definitely the sway bar bushings bracket needs to be removed. And it's not showing in this video.
I just replaced both boots just 2 years ago. Now the right side ripped again. Is this a sign of failure to come. Or just bad luck of crappy rubber boot part ? Power steering fluid is normal
Could just be a crappy boot. It's a low tech part.
Hi Guys, need some help from all of you.
I had replaced my Steering rack recently. Steps taken before installing it :
1) Removed the dust cover of the Rack shaft and centered the rack by turning the shaft to extreme left till lock and counting the number of turns to extreme right which was around 2.85. Hence turned back halfway approximately till about 1.42 and fixed the rack in that position into the subframe.
2)Before connecting the tie rods to the wheel knuckles, made sure that the wheels are straight ahead and equal number of visible threads were left on both the tie rods before connecting to the wheels, which would later be adjusted through wheel alignment.
3)All this while, the steering wheel is centered and locked to avoid damage to the clock spring.
4)Now the centered Rack is connected to the wheels through the tie rods and the steering wheel through the u joint.
5)Wheel alignment was performed and the result is Steering wheel was centering itself at 11’o’clock position on returnability. Thus, pulling the wheels along with the steering towards left and straight line tracking has become uncontrollable.
6)At this point, the turning radius from center to left lock is about an inch more than from the center to right lock. I opened the horn compartment on the steering to check if factory markings of the column were aligned with that of the steering wheel. Result being, they were absolutely aligned.
7)Then I moved the steering wheel one spline right. The result being, now I have equal turning radius from center to left and right lock.
8)Then, I again performed a wheel alignment with the steering wheel held in place straight ahead.
9)The result being, the steering wheel still is off- centre towards left at about 10° and still centers/returns at 11’o’clock position. Even if passed on a bump, the steering moves back to 11 ‘o’ clock.Car goes straight if steering held, between 11 & 12 o clock position. If steering is left loose, it again pulls to left and centers at 11 o clock. Hence, pulling the entire car towards left.
Now I suspect this. Please correct me
1) Steering Rack is still slightly off centre towards left like about 10° ?
(OR)
WHAT COULD IT BE ?
I'm going to assume that you brought your car to an auto repair shop with an alignment machine. Your problem is similar to what I encountered with a alignment shop.
When the car is on the alignment platform, the tech will first center the steering wheel. He then checks the number of degrees each wheel is off and then turns the inner tie rod to center each wheel. If one wheel if off too much, he has to offset the difference in the number of turns with the tie rod on the other wheel. If he doesn't do that, then one side of the car will have its turn radius reduced while the other side will be increased causing a left to right turn radius imbalance. In other words, the outer tie rod on one side has too many turns when compared to the other side's outer tie rod. Both outer tie rods should be within 1 to 1.5 turns of each other.
@@hardlymovingpro The problem doesn’t seem to be with Alignment. I have tried wheel alignment in 4-5 different shops with the Steering Wheel locked in straight position. The values also look good . The problem is, no matter what, the steering wheel wants to center/return at 11’o’clock position if steering is left free. Tie rod visible threads are almost equal. Turning radius of steering on both sides is equal.
@@asphyd12 i have the same issue, did you ever figure it out?
@@asphyd12did you centre your new rack before installing it ? that’s your issue
Great video, getting ready to tackle My 2005 rx 330 so I'm assuming similar..Thank you for spending your time to make.. you get a double thumbs up and hope you get more views.. How many hours did it take you?..
Thanks! Slightly over 3 hours.
ThANK YOU for this video!
Glad it was helpful!
Thank you that show it. can you show it again
Would this process be very similar to a 2008 Lexus RX350? I thought just a boot needed replaced, but my shop is telling me I should replace (not re-build/re-seal) the R&P.
Yes. The replacement process would be very similar with any Toyota made FWD vehicle.
@@hardlymovingpro Thanks! Any differences if mine is AWD?
How important is it to replace the other PS system parts to prevent particulates damaging the new R&P? Is adding and topping off fluid to the reservoir good enough to where I don’t have to buy a bleeder kit? What are your thoughts on installing an inline filter?
Shouldn't be.
No need to replace PS system parts. Here's a video where you can flush out the old fluid and add a ps conditioner: ruclips.net/video/Ers-yAqO9_4/видео.html
Can you put an '05 Tacoma rack and pinion in an '03 Matrix? The only Matrix racks I've found are remanufactured and I'd rather get a new one.
Can't say.
Is it possible to replace the seals in the steering rack and pinion rather than the whole thing?
Yes but that involves a lot of work.
Does it not have a power steering oil filter??
It is full of iron filings.
No Filter. Recommend you blow out the lines with compressed air and a solvent like break clean.
Thsi is great video, thanks for sharing
Thanks!
Great job explaining!!!
Glad it was helpful!
Thanks
Welcome!
Seems no one noticed you fit the outer tie rods wrong. Curved side should always turn towards the axle. Look how they were when you pulled them off and then check how you set them when you replaced them.
Thanks for sharing!
Thank you so much for this video!
Glad it was helpful!
What brand of rack and pinion do you recommend? New or reman?
Cardone
Can you also just measure the tie rods from center to end??
Unfortunately not precise enough. May be off a couple of degrees when measured on a alignment machine.
Great video i got a question though. I have a 2010 toyota sienna power sliding door latch actuator seems to have no power i have tested the actuator it spins and moves things on the lock but does not seem to move the latches. I have checked wires, fuses, and grounds any idea on what it could be? The right side door works perfectly there is a multiplex module tried changing that but didn't work.
Could be a jam up inside the cable reel assembly. Only way to know is the detach the cable reel off the motor and open it up. Sorry ... but easier said than done.
Replacing the Rack and pinion on my 98 toyota Corolla and wondering what type of power steering fluid you recommend?
Any Dextron III or better ATF fluid will work.
How can you tell if the new rack is "centered?" I mean that if you have the steering in your car centered, the new rack will extend the same amount in each direction.
To be certain, using a pair of vice grips, turn the steering shaft completely clockwise. Then count the number of turns to go counter clockwise. Divide the number of turns by 2 and that's the number of clockwise turns to equalize the length of both inner tie rods.
@@hardlymovingpro thank you!
You bet!
I read a comment from a guy with a lexus IS250 and he said the PTU was in the way. I have a ES350 (2013) would i have this problem ?
Only if you ES350 is a AWD (all wheel drive) vehicle
Thank you 😊
You're welcome 😊
I like you videos I have a toyota avalon limited 2006 and some one cut of the hose the one you removed if you see u video you removed that is in between the air filter box and the engine and click on the socket that has a orange tag on the side I'm trying to find out what is the name.of that whose because is electrical thank you
Power steering pump reservoir to pump supply hose.
I’m about to try my first real repair, rack and pinion as well as front lower control arms on an 03 Avalon. Will removing the lower control arms and ball joints make it easier for the removal and installation of the rack and pinion? Should I try both of these at once or am I getting myself in way too deep.
Don't think removing the control arm and ball joint will make.that much difference. They're both independent jobs so doing together won't save any time and effort ... EMHO. Good luck with the repair!
Great video. Thank you. Is this the exact same procedure as on a 2006 Solara XLE. V6? We need to replace it on my sons car.
Thanks again.
Can't say but should be very close. Toyota designs are very consistent.
Where are you located I can bring my car for real n pin replacement n power steering pump..n how much is the cost
East of Memphis
@@hardlymovingpro how much would u charge for labor?
I have the same problem on my right side,it is leaking a lot,is it possible just to change the seal instead replacing the whole rack and pinion????is that seal replaceable???
Not worth the effort. You'll need to take the entire rack out, get a rebuild kit and spend a couple of hours getting to and replacing the seals. Better off getting a reman for around $200.
@@hardlymovingpro ok thanks
Nice work. I'm wish you were my mechanic.
Thanks!
Is it really worth changing the seals or would it be better to get a whole new steering rack... im currently having issues with my and it leaking.. so some advice will really help
Yes...recommend replacing the steering rack.
Excelente video.
Thanks!
I have a 2010 Lexus ES350. My car started making a humming noise when I would take turns. I showed my car to a mechanic friend and he said the problem is the power steering pump. Couple months later, I took my car to change the pump. After changing it, the wheel has become stiff ( very difficult to turn) and I was told that because i have waited too long to change the power steering pump, I have also damaged the rack and pinion and needs replacement. What do you advise and if it’s the rack and pinion, will this video apply to my car as well? Thank you!
I believe the replacement pump has lost it's pumping pressure and the repair shop doesn't want to make good in replacing the defective pump at their expense. Their solution is to upsell you into a new rack at your expense and their profit. IMHO. Also, get a 2nd opinion.
@@hardlymovingproThe thing is that I initially purchased a pump from Oriely’s and had him change it. The steering wheel got stiff. He told me to get a pump from Lexus dealership and had him change it again. The problem still persisted. That’s when he told me the problem is from the rack and pinion if changing the pump didn’t fix the problem. A few days later, he called me and he said to return the part from the Lexus and get one from Oriely’s again. My guess is that he realized he made a mistake in installing the part (air system pressure, or the fluid) and he wants to try and fix it again with the cheaper part. Because the pump cannot be faulty from two different places. Or the rack and pinion was the original issue with the car. But I also highly doubt the issue is with the rack. I have feeling that it could be with the air system or the fluid. What’s your opinion on that. Thank you for replying to my message btw!
Can't advise. Hard steering, from my experience, are caused by inadequate pressure from the ps pump. Never had to replace a rack due to hard steering; rather ps fluid leakage from the rack seals.
Thank you!
Does the power steering rack still function? I have the same issue on my car and I don't see why I need to replace the whole entire rack I'm planning on taking it apart and replacing the seals inside. I'd rather some extra work then all that money. think this will work?
I was thinking about doing that but the time effort involved and need for specialty tools and instructions convinced me not to do it.
Was that power steering fluid or transmission fluid?
Either or will work. Both oils are hydraulic fluids.
Any seals or copper washers to the supply lines that need to be reassembled with new ones? Also is theeadlock optional to some of the fasteners suck as the bolt to the steering spindle, mounting brackets etc.. It's difficult to tell how tight the supply line bolts need to be compared to the mounting bracket bolts just based off feel for those that aren't very experienced with the feel of bolt tightness.. Thanks much great video 👍
The p/s fluid supply and return lines to the rack is connected with flare nuts where the metal hose end has a rubber o ring. In the video I show the replacement of the two o rings which came with the new rack.
@@hardlymovingpro thank you, good to know thr streerimg rack comes with replacement rings.. in regards to torquing fastenrs to spec, how would you recommend to go about it because it doesn't seem like a torque wrench can fit in those tight spots
Yup ... no room for a torque wrench. Make it as tight as you can with a flare nut wrench or adapter.
Well detailed Instructional Video- Thanks Buddy!
And Pls what is the name the Toyota? Looks like a V-6 engine Venza?
2008 Avalon.
@@hardlymovingpro - kk Awesome. i have a Toyota Venza 2009 that has a play on the front end of the drivers wheel whenever i hit a bump. So i took it in a TOYOTA DEALERSHIP after the diagnoses, they said i will need a new rack-replacement. Buh now, my quest is could it be the rack BUSHING problem as i saw a clip saying it could be BUSHING issue- stating that proper inspection has to be done-well before replacing the whole rack-Unit. what do you think? Pls i need accurate advice on what to do first to avoid money waste!
Free play with the rack, from what I've experienced, is usually due to a worn inner or outer tie rod. I'd get a 2nd opinion if I were you.
@@hardlymovingpro _Second Opinion how sorry?
Like seeing another doctor if told something unexpected.
Would this be the same for a lexus or wil there be some differences?
Only difference, maybe, would be the supply and return power steering fluid connection points on the rack. The rack mounting points on the sedans are consistent in design.
How come you didn’t have to mark the steering column shaft where it meets the rack?
You could but when you have the front end realigned on a alignment machine, the inner tie rods can be adjusted to compensate.
How do i center the rack and pinion bolt centering the steering wheel?
You can approximate by turning completely clockwise and counting the number of turns to lock up going counter clockwise. Divide by 2 and you've got your mid point. Now you know how much to turn clockwise. Can use vice grips to turn the steering shaft.
hello going to be doing this to my 98 Avalon in 5-7 day when in comes in, does it matter on what side the rack come out , it seems like it would be easier to take it out on the drivers side, but it looks like you took it out on the passenger side. Am I missing something ?
It doesn't matter. Whatever side is easiest.
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Thanks!
Question: Do you remember what size O-Ring gaskets were used on the upper and lower lines? @14:05
Sorry I don't but the new rack should come with new o rings.
@@hardlymovingpro Fair enough. Thanks for the reply! great video. i'll be tackling the job mainly thanks to your video. very well done.
Hello can this be also done on a 2002 toyota avalon xls how you unscrew those bolt from the engine intake box
Yes ... with some minor variations. The concept is the same.
hello, is it easier to do this replacement while the car on a lift or jack stands? thanks
Easier on a lift.
How much would it cost about to have rack and pinion worked on and changed
Seen prices from 1200 to $1,400
great video !!
Thanks for the visit!
I'm changing Inner Tie Rods and when I removed the boot on the driver side there was a lot of liquid. I think it was power steering fluid. The passenger side didn't have anything of that kind, or it was some but not that much that it would leak out of the boot. There were no leaks observed before (until I removed that driver side boot). Does it mean that there is a leak in the rack, and I need to replace it? Also sometimes you can read statements, that when you replace the Inner TR, some precautions should be taken not to damage the rack and pinion. But everyone on youtube just replace it without those precautions. Maybe it is only for certain cars? Can you give your opinion on this matter?
Thank you for the good film.
You are correct. Seal in the rack is worn and leaking ps fluid into the inner tie rod boot.
@@hardlymovingpro Thank you for so quick replay. Pls could you tell if I can replace that seal without removing the rack? (2003 Chevrolet Cavalier) And I'm thinking maybe that warning I've heard was exactly about those seals: when I replaced the Inner TR on the passenger car, I broke the seal on the driver side due to torquing. Not sure, but it looks to me now that in that comment about precautions, it was said smth about possibility to damage the seal. Though see I replaced both Inner TRs on another car (2001 Saturn SL2) and didn't acounter any problems. And can't remember what it was said in the comment what should be done not to damage the rack, when you replace the Inner TRs.
How long to pull out? How long to install? Thank!
Took around 3 hrs for the replacement