I've been using the 177ft-lb spec since I've owned my T1N. I saw the posts on the FVM page last week regarding the differing torque specs and my head was spinning! Thanks for clearing it up in such a logical way.
They are pretty standard in the states. These have Freightliner logos, Dodge logos are more popular but the Mercedes star hubcaps are most desirable. They can all be found on eBay.
I do 175ft lbs because im a rebel, and the harbor breight icon torque wrench sits with my lug nut set next to the jack. Wonder if the heat and cold would ruin the torque wrench reading after a while?
Do you leave the wrench set* or do you wind it down to zero when stored? I didn't know this was important until I bought a wrench that cannot be put back in the case unless set near zero. Then I learned why and decided to replace my smaller wrench that has been set at 7Nm for 15 years. :( I should compare the one I abused for 15 years to the new one and see if it is wrong* or just untrusted*.
Thanks for making all these videos. I just bought a sprinter that has a cracked piston and scored the cylinder walls in the block. Have you repaired this problem before? Do you know if I can buy oversized pistons or get a sleeve put in?
I hear ya'. I checked several references trying to find variations for alloy wheels and found some conflicting answers for the 3500 model vans. Since I couldn't be certain my advice was good on those variables I stick with detailing only the one I could be confident. Steel wheels on 2500 van is the most common, by far.
I do 175 NM and thats what it says when i look it up in the Nordic forum in europe im from Denmark. Normally i do my sprinter 160 nm and thats with custom alloy wheels 15"
Yes, 177 foot pounds for lug BOLTS (2500 vans) is proper for 2000-2019 Sprinters with steel wheels. If you have alloy wheels it should only be set to 133 foot pounds.
Depends what book we are reading. I don't believe ally's should be as tight but I wasn't able to find the proper spec. One source said 135 foot/pounds and I would tighten them all then come back and torque each one. Be sure to check them after the first drive.
Slightly (very) off topic but i've watched a lot of your videos and they've been an amazing help. especially the sliding door ones, they've got mine gliding great! One thing i am struggling with is the rear doors, when i open them at around 45 degrees the drop about an inch and the hinge kicks out. when closed, they rattle. Any advice? cheers pal! (2003 Mercedes Sprinter 411 IN the UK)
Sounds like your bottom hinges are worn out. There is a cam that slides between the two pivot points. The oval hinge-bits should keep one side of the hinge straight until the other has fully swung. That horrible kreeeeeeeek noise it was making was the cam wearing out, grinding against the oval. Replacing the bottom hinges will be key to success. Replace one at a time and adjust the door before replacing the next hinge.
I was told it came from a Tacoma and installed by previous owner. The van belongs to a long-time member of our Vanmily and is featured in one of our fuel pump rebuilding videos. Search HPFP and it will pop up in thumbnail image. Cosmetically it fits very well but the mounting is thin and 2 dimensional. It will spread the impact across the front of the van but it will push into the van with any serious impact. I feel that is probably safer for the van occupants as a truly rigid brush guard attached to the frame removes the 'crumple-zone' that saves lives in hard crashes.
I've been using the 177ft-lb spec since I've owned my T1N. I saw the posts on the FVM page last week regarding the differing torque specs and my head was spinning! Thanks for clearing it up in such a logical way.
My head was spinning too when we found different specs in different books. It all makes sense in the end, thankfully.
notice when it clicked the first time you went like 5 degrees already , i stop right as it clicks
I was a bit heavy handed at first and that bolt had been reset a couple times for 'Take Two, Take Three and maybe Take Seven.
off topic, but i like the caps on the steel rims… are they original for the us version of sprinters? where to get them? any link for advise?
They are pretty standard in the states. These have Freightliner logos, Dodge logos are more popular but the Mercedes star hubcaps are most desirable. They can all be found on eBay.
I do 175ft lbs because im a rebel, and the harbor breight icon torque wrench sits with my lug nut set next to the jack. Wonder if the heat and cold would ruin the torque wrench reading after a while?
Do you leave the wrench set* or do you wind it down to zero when stored? I didn't know this was important until I bought a wrench that cannot be put back in the case unless set near zero. Then I learned why and decided to replace my smaller wrench that has been set at 7Nm for 15 years. :(
I should compare the one I abused for 15 years to the new one and see if it is wrong* or just untrusted*.
Thanks for making all these videos. I just bought a sprinter that has a cracked piston and scored the cylinder walls in the block. Have you repaired this problem before? Do you know if I can buy oversized pistons or get a sleeve put in?
Yes, we recently replaced a piston with a used one, new rings and honed the cylinder. The van in our video named "Knock Knock" was repaired.
177lbft seems crazy tight for a 14mm thread
I hear ya'. I checked several references trying to find variations for alloy wheels and found some conflicting answers for the 3500 model vans. Since I couldn't be certain my advice was good on those variables I stick with detailing only the one I could be confident. Steel wheels on 2500 van is the most common, by far.
I do 175 NM and thats what it says when i look it up in the Nordic forum in europe im from Denmark. Normally i do my sprinter 160 nm and thats with custom alloy wheels 15"
Wonder if this ft-lb torque would transfer to my high roof NCV3 2500 with an OM642?
Yes, 177 foot pounds for lug BOLTS (2500 vans) is proper for 2000-2019 Sprinters with steel wheels. If you have alloy wheels it should only be set to 133 foot pounds.
Torque specs the same for steel vs alloy wheels?
Depends what book we are reading. I don't believe ally's should be as tight but I wasn't able to find the proper spec. One source said 135 foot/pounds and I would tighten them all then come back and torque each one. Be sure to check them after the first drive.
@@FloridaVanMan thank you much
Slightly (very) off topic but i've watched a lot of your videos and they've been an amazing help. especially the sliding door ones, they've got mine gliding great! One thing i am struggling with is the rear doors, when i open them at around 45 degrees the drop about an inch and the hinge kicks out. when closed, they rattle. Any advice? cheers pal! (2003 Mercedes Sprinter 411 IN the UK)
Sounds like your bottom hinges are worn out. There is a cam that slides between the two pivot points. The oval hinge-bits should keep one side of the hinge straight until the other has fully swung. That horrible kreeeeeeeek noise it was making was the cam wearing out, grinding against the oval. Replacing the bottom hinges will be key to success. Replace one at a time and adjust the door before replacing the next hinge.
@@FloridaVanMan thanks ever so much!
Bill which Brush Guard is on that T1N?
I was told it came from a Tacoma and installed by previous owner. The van belongs to a long-time member of our Vanmily and is featured in one of our fuel pump rebuilding videos. Search HPFP and it will pop up in thumbnail image. Cosmetically it fits very well but the mounting is thin and 2 dimensional. It will spread the impact across the front of the van but it will push into the van with any serious impact. I feel that is probably safer for the van occupants as a truly rigid brush guard attached to the frame removes the 'crumple-zone' that saves lives in hard crashes.