How To Quickly and Easily Fix A Loud Or Rattling Door! Extremely Common Issue
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- Опубликовано: 7 июл 2023
- In this video I show you how to easily fix those loud and rattling doors that we all have in our homes.
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Electric Screwdriver (Highly Recommend): amzn.to/3JuJDs2
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Pliers: amzn.to/46I5Axt
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Seems like about half of the doors in my house have this issue and cause them to close louder and even make a loud rattling noise when opening and closing exterior doors. Am I alone in this??
How do you know everything about everything? Everything you show makes so much sense and is easy to do. You’re a genius!
Helpful video. Might also be able to bend that tongue by inserting a slot screw driver in it and bending it that way.
You have such great advice! Now I’m going to go check all my doors. Thank you!😊
You are very welcome. Really glad to hear you liked it! Thanks a lot for the feedback!
haha me too
Huh, never knew about being able to adjust the strike plate, great tip!
(The biggest problem in our house though is that a couple of doors have gotten mis-aligned as the house has settled over the years, so you have to haul up on them to get them to latch. I just need to take the strike plates off and file them a bit, but have been too lazy as they’re not frequently-used doors these days.)
Great advice! Loose doors and loose lock bolts have plagued my entire adult life…
Tell me about it! Seems no matter where I have lived, this has been the case. Thanks a lot for the feedback!
Awesome little trick, I love it! Now I just have to figure out how approach my neighbor about this lol.
at 3:47 "So this way the latch cannot travel as far". I think what you mean is it still travels as far to begin with but there is no bounce back now. It cannot go back.
Keep it going. You deserve 1M subs., Great content, clear explanations and you make it easy for anyone to fix things in their homes even if they have never done this type of thing before.
It's designed to put a flat screwdriver in and adjust, no need to take the strike plate off.
He displayed the issue with doing that. Sometimes it works, other times it doesn't
@@wags99999 never once had the imagined problem he described.
@@kode3I have, but chances are I'm much older than you and have worked on many more doors. I'm happy for your good luck, it does happen, just common sense would prove that point.
@@wags99999 lol common sense
So yes, like @wags99999 said I demonstrated that method towards the end because it can be done that way on many but not all strike plates. However, I personally have had instances where someone got a little excited with the impact and over tightened the tiny screws that come with the strike plate causing the hole to be stripped out and if you use the screwdriver to bend the tongue it either pulls or starts to pull the screws out of the trim with the strike plate. So I prefer to spend the couple extra minutes and just remove the strike plate altogether. But like I said in the video, and to your point, you can attempt this on many strike plates with a screwdriver and very well may have success, but it’s just something to keep in mind.
Explained very well !
Great info, as usual!
Thanks for the advice! I appreciate it! 😀👍
Thank You👍
As always thank you for sharing!
Quite a little bit of information.
appreciate you
nice works good you can also use toothpicks dip them in glue and brake them off flush in the screw holes if you happen to strip the holes
That's such a good idea thanks.
@@emiller7040 I was starting to wonder though if the bond of the glue on a toothpick would be suitably strong to use for door applications.
@@emiller7040 That is great to know and I appreciate the information.
Great tip, thanks. 👍🏼
Great Video!
I Have 3" Screws in My Outside Doors, so I am able to use the Screwdriver trick!
Great info!!
Thumbs up 👍 thank you 😊
Excellent. Folks mentioned using toothpicks to fix stripped out screw holes. Wooden kitchen matches will work for bigger problems. I have replaced nearly every door in my house starting from replacing the frame and consider it the most difficult project I do. Thanks for the hint.
Could put some adhesive bumpers on the door frame to take up that final 1/8” (2 - 3 mm).
That is an option. Would help sound proof some too I would think.
Great vid! I have a a 3.5 ton AC with a micro air soft start. About 27 amps start 11 run. I need a generator that can run that unit, a fridge/freezer and a deep freeze. I would like to add light but those are my must haves. How big of a generator would I need? I have been looking at the Duromax 13000kw tri fuel and the amps on it are 35 out of 50 with natural gas(which I want to hook it too).
Thank you
One thing I have done to repair stripped screw holes was to drill them out and insert a suitable size oak or hardwood dowel pin. Usually 1/4” or larger works fine. First drill the holes to about a 3/8” to 1/2” depth, stick the dowel pin or rod in the hole till it bottoms out and mark with a pencil or marker. Then use a hacksaw to cut the dowel rod or a sharp knife like a box cutter knife. May have to first work the drill bit a little to wallow out the drill holes so that the fit is not too tight. Use a good wood glue or epoxy glue to coat the hole and the dowel pins then drive them into the drilled out screw holes then let the glue cure. Then drill suitable size holes and then reinstall the screws and latch plate - don’t drill the new screw holes too large or the latch plate screw will strip out and not hold. I find it is best to use quick cure epoxy glue that cures within say five minutes, so that the job can be finished in short order. This method also works well when repairing cabinet door hinges where the screws are loose and stripped out.
I just moved into a brand new building. The door rattles sooo much but the strike plate does not have any lip!! And I can’t find any replacement that’s the same size as my strike plate online that has a lip. Any advice?
Great advice but you forgot my lazy preferred method of put a 1/4" strip of 2 sided door seal gasket. Function over form 😃
Put the strip where? On the trim, between the trim and the door edge? Or a tiny bit of strip on the metal tab, instead of bending the tab?
@@brothermine2292 I went with a strip between the trim and the door, but your second suggestion sounds worth trying
@@markheatherington8367 : I think my second suggestion wouldn't be durable. The repeated forces from the latch rubbing the strip could eventually overcome the strip's adhesive. Is there a tape with a very strong, permanent adhesive, to wrap around the metal tab or to tape a shim onto the metal tab?
Bending the tab as in the video seems like the simplest alternative. It doesn't take much labor and there's nothing to buy. Weather stripping makes sense if the problem is with a door to the outside, to solve two problems with one solution.
@@brothermine2292 Agree. My fix was just temporary - nice day with the window open and library door closed and rattling in the breeze type of thing :))
If you strip out the holes by overnighting, just insert a few toothpick into the holes, break them off flush and that should fix your problem.
You might want to measure the amount of "play" in the closed door, and use that measurement to determine how much to bend the metal tab, instead of just trial & error.
Yeah that would definitely be more precise.
What about squeaking hinges
What about the opposite, the door won’t latch unless you push really hard?
Then the strike plate is probably mounted too close to the door stop trim.
Also, check whether the metal tab is already bent too far, and if so, straighten it enough that it won't interfere with the door latch.
I've NEVER had a door that doesn't have movement when it's closed
Good idea. But didn’t work for me
you've made a ramp for the latch now. do that too far and you will be able to push it open
To avoid constructing a "ramp" you could put a second bend in the metal tab, so that the portion of the tab that contacts the latch will be parallel to the contacted side of the latch, not at an angle.
Talked about this later in the video.
@@brothermine2292 "ramp". sycophant