The Secret History of Pollarding Trees | Understanding Coppice vs Pollard
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- Опубликовано: 22 июл 2024
- Episode 4 of Tree surgeon Diaries.
Today we are in Tamworth and we are pollarding a willow, but what is a pollard, where did the technique come from and why do we do it?
We'll be covering the following
- What about coppice vs pollard, what is the difference between coppicing and pollarding.
- A brief history of coppicing and tree pollard techniques
- Why you would pollard a tree
- Join me in a tree as we pollard a willow tree
0:00 Intro
0:20 What is a coppice?
1:18 The problems with coppicing
2:20 What is a pollard?
2:54 Pollarding in the urban landscape
3:55 Pollarding is a brutal thing to do.
4:47 Join me in the tree - Tree surgery POV
5:40 A fused branch [interesting feature]
8:17 What finished pollard?
8:57 Outro
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I work as a freelance Climbing Arborist (a.k.a tree surgeon) to a few trusted suppliers, contact them directly if you want a quote for tree surgery.
They all provide tree surgery in West Midlands and they do overlap but here are my go-to guys and girls for the following areas.
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Dudley, Wolverhampton, and the Black Country - www.arbtreeservices-dudley.co.uk
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Lichfield & Tamworth and beyond - www.lichfieldtreeworks.co.uk
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Sutton Coldfield, Cannock & Burntwood - www.crownworkstreeservices.co.uk
#treesurgeon #pollard #arborist
Definitely worth mentioning again many trees should not be pollarded. It is very intensive and requires consistent maintenance. In MANY instances it is better to do crown reductions and thinnings using appropriate pruning cuts. Plus those methods are far less ugly than the skeleton of a tree that is left from a pollarded tree. Pollarded trees new growth is also much more weakly attached than regular limbs, creating a dangerous situation. There is very little difference between this and topping, and all the science very clearly indicates that is entirely detrimental to trees. Yes pollarding can be better than removing, but it should not be the first choice for pruning the grand majority of urban trees.
Isa arborist
Completely agree, it’s harmful and should be avoided. But this is a willow that the client wanted to retain in a much small form. We informed him of the implications so he could make an informed choice. He decided to go ahead with a pollard.
Yes we could have done a 10% reduction but the client would not have been happy with that and it would have involved extra costs of a tracked platform.
Had some lads come round and look at our hedges and tress and ….our weeping willow - it is central in the garden and it is just the majesty of the garden! They suggested pollarding and I thought no way! You’d never know the difference in a year or two they said. I suspected maybe they were not as sympathetic as you (or I). I pollarded a really old apple tree and every year I realised I had created a lot of work for myself! The apple tree needs to go really but it also is a main feature of the garden. We are selling the house so the next owners can decide. I did think the guys who came round were just so flippant in their suggestion. Plus if they get to do the maintenance post pollarding then I suppose they are quids in!
I have a situation where they are felling and pollarding about half the trees on my road. It's really brutal and quite frankly I am really struggling with it. I can almost feel the trees' emotions. I am contemplating getting involved to try and stop it and at least find out why they are being so brutal with so many trees. I am trying to find out information on pollarding. Any useful information or links is very much appreciated. They started on Friday, they said that was all they were doing, but I have since seen signs on 5 more trees which will be brutalised tomorrow, so they weren't even honest with me. I'm in Brighton, with a fake Green Party, which is laughing stock and they seem to be doing this all over the city. Please help.
@@soniaterhovanessian7198 , there is an old movie on the realities of trying to stay warm and keep a fire to cook food & boil water (when boiling water was the only way to stop infections). It was very “brutal” but basically the rich could afford to have whole trees cut down and brought to their houses to light their 6-20 fireplaces. But the poor would struggle to use the branches of wood that came off the pollarded trees as fuel for their single family fires (and they would regularly steal from the rich peoples stores-try to chop down trees and try to kill deer and other meat from the forests). But when caught the poor person would be killed, leaving the family to be sold into slavery in a cruel cycle. So the pollarding is basically a sign that something is going on and the city or owners of that road are trying to produce the most wood possible. And although pollarding “is detrimental to the tree” as our author and my college professors have said. Someone is paying for those trees to be pollarded; possibly to create wood for the land owner or other people. Moral: start collecting wood and/or pollarding at least one tree on your lot. Or please find out the motivation behind the cuttings (I pray it is only bad tree cutters!)(?).
I see lots of trees being cut like this but I never knew what it was called. Thank you so much for this informative video.
The history of it was especially interesting.
Great video and plenty of information
Great video, indeed great channel, very interesting and enjoy your presentation style and content. Keep up the good work. 👍🏻👍🏻👏🏻👏🏻👏🏻
Thank you so much for this. As I write, the two trees overlooked by my flat are getting a severe haircut, and I am hoping this is just a pollarding not an eventual removal. I get very anxious when I see anyone near a tree with an electric saw and a ladder - I am an unashamed tree-hugging fanatic - but your clear explanation of the why and how is very reassuring. I feel a little better now, despite the trees looking a bit sorry for themselves at the moment.
Hopefully they didn't remove them and did a good job pollarding or reducing them.
Any Arborist would get very anxious when a geezer is near a tree with an electric saw and a ladder 🤣 so you're not alone there lol
Amazing video ! New sub. This was so informative, thank you!
love that you showed that fusion. there's a doug fir near me i found that is 2 stems about 15 feet apart that join 20 feet above the ground and form 1 trunk, 1 crown. it's wild.
Great video, very informative.
Glad you enjoyed it! Thank you
Nice to see reasoned tree management.
Thank you
A great video and insight. Thank you for sharing
Thanks Matt
Good info. Thanks.
Awesome video, very informative
Glad it was helpful!
Just found your videos. Very well put together and found out everything I wanted to know. 😀
Thank you Martin. Glad I was able to answer your questions
Really interesting video. I think if I was twenty earlier I would like to have learnt to be a tree surgeon , looks very satisfying but hard work.
Thank you Philip! Appreciate the comment 🙂
Interesting bit of history comes from why trees were cut hard in ancient times. It was discovered that the new growth came out as long straight shoots that were useful for construction, fences and other wood needs. Milling straight lumber was not easy by hand. Over time, because the trees were recognized as surviving, it was thought that hard cutting or pollarding was actually good for the tree. Even in modern times, this misunderstanding of tree pruning became a normal concept. The long term decay in many species from this type of hard pruning often leads to limb failures if not continually cut back. I agree that it is a better idea than removing but it is also important to know that a natural undamaged structure is best left alone. Arborist Blair Glenn. Please search for me
I had heard that cutting it back like this actually increased the longevity of the tree as there are thousand-year-old pollard and/or coppice stools that have been found and dated still in use. I also understand that the proper time to do this is when the tree is dormant. Wouldn't that make a difference to the health of the tree?
@@mishap00 The one main issue with making 4, 6, or 8 inch diameter cuts on a mature tree is that the tree has to compartmentalize these wounds. Also, the lack of foliage will stress the tree by the wood being exposed to excess sunlight, compounded by the inability to photosynthesize from lack of foliage. You also get poorly attached water sprout (AKA sucker) growth that is, in the long run, harmful. In the US, topping trees has the same effect as pollarding, although the reasoning differs.
I've topped trees earlier in my career before I knew better. The fact is a lot of them survived, just like the pollarded trees you're talking about. However, survival of some doesn't mean it's right to do it all the time. At this point in my career, I have talked any client that will listen out of this kind of drastic pruning. I have never met a person in 15+ years who was a certified arborist that recommended topping (or Pollarding). The only people I see do this kind of work are people who have the expensive equipment (truck, chipper, etc) and don't want to talk the client out of doing profitable work.
During dormancy is definitely the best time to do any pruning work and the worst is in the spring after the tree has expended all its energy stores into making leaves.
As for ancient coppice stools, it is true that there are some really old ones out there. I think that this is more luck and chance than a strategy to extend the life of a tree. The ones I know of have been left/neglected for many decades if not centuries so coppicing them now would probably be too much of a shock for them.
@Ryan J.S. completely agree on the issue of decay at the pollard head. The wound is difficult for the tree to compartmentalize and it does increase the risk of limb failure. Not sure about the inability to photosynthesize, many trees will compensate by increasing leaf cover by either enlarged leaves or more of them.
Pollarding is not a process I recommend to my clients and I will always tree and talk them into a lighter reduction but some customers are adamant that they want a much smaller tree but do not want it gone completely. I always explain that pollarding is a management process that should be done cyclically (every 5-10 years depending on species).
Some people listen to our advice, others don't but we do our best to explain. That's about as much as we can do.
@@Point5TV appreciate that reply. Would have been a good idea to stress that more to the unknowing homeowners watching the video.
Skills n bravery in abundance
I love this! I am "half-pollarding" willow, hazel, alder, ash, on my smallholding on The Wild Atlantic Way in the west of Ireland. I cut the 2- or 3-year old off-shoot branches in the second or third years...........but just half-way through, from top to bottom, so the cut-off lies horizontal. New shoots come up the following year from the gash. This forms a strong stock-proof hedge which I keep at about 4/5 meters high which increases in density each year. I don't know if this is "pollarding" but it works! Thank you for a very intresting video.
That sounds like the technique used in hedge laying where they partially cut through a branch and fold it over. It looks fabulous when done well and give a good solid hedge/living fence. Glad it was useful.
Your job seems pretty scary man. You've got my respect
I lived in Netherlands for some years, and used to call this a "Dutch pruning job". Didn't know it was a legitimate method.
Thanks Vishal 😀
Hope you do an after video, really curious to see how it turns out. I've seen some home owners that pollard their own trees but never seen a tree company do this, pretty cool.
It’s pretty common for tree surgeons to do it. A lot of street trees, particularly London Plane trees are cyclically pollarded
I’ll try and pop back when I’m that way in a few years to see what it’s like
Really interesting video, many thanks.
Glad you enjoyed it
Trying to pollard some Hackberry trees; they are growing far enough from my fence to cut to pollard , versus removing. I know Hackberries are not a preferred wood, but they do burn very hot. There is also an Elm, Pecan, and Live Oak on the fence lines, but the Live Paks are probably too large already(?). What height would be best: at fence level?, above fence level? Or under fence level? I’m trying not to ruin my neighbors new wood fence.
Just trying to manage a problem on just 1/10 an acre, suburb lot.
Really love your video, energy, and accent. Appreciate you sharing!
Hi thanks for sharing your knowledge nice video, can you pollard all year round ? I got bit woodland that I’m trying to manage but I’m only coppercing and polarding in winter nov dec thought it’s best for the tree thanks again 👊🏻
Most of the work I do is in domestic gardens so I have very little opportunity to revisit the trees and see how they are doing.
I would suggest that if you have to pollard then it’s best to do it over the winter when the trees are in a state of dormancy
Branches growing into each other and fusing is known as inosculation. I have been trying to get my espaliered fruit trees to inosculate as they grow along my garden fence.
Of course, inosculation! Good luck with the fruit trees. I think there has to be very little movement between the branches. If they move they rub and wear each other away. Have you tried grafting tape to hold them together?
@@Point5TV I haven’t tried that yet but I have bound them with some of that gardening, rubber coated wire, which you have to ease each year or the wood grows around it. I have had some success with standard grafting just using a pen knife and 1” strips of old compost bags to bind them instead of grafting tape. I would love to see more espaliered avenues of fruit trees. I think they would make a more decorative and productive path or field boundary than plain fencing, especially if the wires were removed once the trees are mature enough as that must be one of a tree surgeon’s or chainsaw operator’s nemeses . I have seen this in places like Belgium and they look awesome.
On another matter, have you ever thought of using a chainsaw mill for recovering sawn planks in situ? I have a Panther Cub mill attached to a Husky 120 with a20” bar which I have used to mill some smaller trunks (you can actually mill quite a big trunk with this small system) that I have scrounged from various sources and have produced some lovely plank wood. Mind you, you do have to store it all somewhere and use it or sell it/give it to friends for their own projects.
Our garden group started out talking about Empress Trees then referenced pollarding trees. Our PetSmart chops all the tree branches off every spring before they can get leaves or bloom. So sad. I'm not sure if I saw you cut back to a "V" in the branches and not leave stumps. The woman who started Plant Amnesty has passed away, and leaves many training videos for everyone to learn pruning.
I'm terrified of heights don't know how you do that. Interesting video though, I have a young Catalpa and wanted to encourage a wider lower canopy do you recommend pollarding?
I dont recommend pollarding, it's quite a brutal thing to do. It will put the tree into a state of stress and it will shoot up like crazy. I'd get a local certified arborist to have a look at the tree. It may be more beneficial to reduce the height (maybe over a number of years) and leave the lateral branches. However, trees evolved in forests where they had to out-compete their neighbours for light so it's not in a trees natural growth pattern to grow wide and low.
I’m not afraid of heights per se
I’ll often climb a tree
It’s just the thought of coming down
At great velocity
I couldn’t give a monkey’s cuss
How far it is to drop
The detail that concerns me most
The rate at which I stop!
Hi quick question we have planted a woodland 12 years ago sone of the ash trees are showing signs of ash die back would pollarding these trees help combat the disease. thanks Richard 😊
Hi, Sorry for the delay, I've only just spotted this. No, pollarding isn't a great thing to do to trees. It leaves a massive wound that can be colonised by pathogens. It's a bit likr having your leg amputated to solve your headache. The risk of your ash trees will need to be managed but it's possible they could be left to manage themselves.
Is there any reason this isn’t done in the winter when trees are usually pruned? Or is the point for it to not grow back too fast?
I disagree, I think pruning in the winter is limited to homeowners or small holdings or operations (such as flailing hedges) where nesting birds should be left undisturbed. It also probably works better on large country estates where the work can be planned 12-24 months in advance.
The arboriculture industry (and the people who work in it) have to operate 12 months of the year to pay the bills. We don't have the luxury of doing all the pruning work in winter and from my studies I believe that pruning in the winter isn't any less detrimental to the tree than summer pruning. Spring is the worst time as the trees have spent considerable energy growing leaves and buds but have not had time to recover that energy through photosynthesis. However, the energy cycle of trees is not widely researched for a lot of species.
Pollarding is particularly brutal to the tree and should not be done at any time of the year - unless it's part of a carefully considered management plan.
Then, on the other hand, most of our clients are wrapped up indoors in the winter months and just are not thinking about having tree work done. They only really consider it in the summer months to get more light or to tidy the garden so they can enjoy the sunshine. If we ask them to wait until winter most won't or they'll go to a competitor.
TLDR; it's not practical to move all pruning operations to the winter months and do nothing for the other 8 months of the year and the benefit to the tree is negligible.
❤
what's your experience with summer vs. winter polarding. did u ever hat problem with trees dying
Hard to say because customers don't get me back regularly enough to have any meaningful data to draw on. And quite often, if they are leaving a pollard so late in it's life (it should be started early) then they are often not bothered if it dies or lives. This customer was different, but pollarding here is quite often a cheaper option to removal.
And was it pollarded really hard before because I see some abnormal tall growth and did you do a second Willow Tree next to it
From memory, i think that was a black poplar. Someone else climbed that tree a day or two before I was there.
My professors always disagreed with topping off of Crape Myrtles. However, since the land owners and bosses paid me to top them off I listened to them if they paid. The professor said it would cause long term decay in the tree and hurt it. But the old pollarded trees, that were done right, have lasted thousands or hundreds of years in Europe. What do you think?
I noticed that u were using spikes, wouldn't that make the tree more at risk of diseases where the spikes for making holes?
Good spot and you’re right. I did most of the tree without spikes and put them on for the last central limb. There was no other way to do the last bit safely and I took care not to leave spike wounds over the limbs that were to remain
Had to become sub 400.
Hey!! Thank you for being 400! Much love ❤️
nerves of steel
Thanks 😄
I`m curious if pollarding is best done when trees are relatively young? I could imagine there is a big differnce between doing this on a tree that is fast growing, then repeating these cuts on a say 5 year cycle, as opposed to pollarding a old established tree. I wondered if pollarding was less destructive for trees if practiced since the trees youth...rather than just addopted as a management technique on a mature tree.
Yes. If the surface area of the cut it too big, it will rot before it occludes.
So best to cut back the branches on mature trees rather than a thick truck which will never occlude.
I agree with what @ianm5864 says. All pruning is more successful in a young and vigorous tree.
Like humans, the older they are, the more care you need to exercise and they lose their ability to recover.
And bigger wounds take longer to heal (occlude).
1:55 what is a brumble?
I think I mumble the word a bit, it’s brambles - the generic word for prickly shrubs of the rose family, typically raspberries and blackberries. Anything that grows quick will smother and try to outcompete a coppiced tree.
I think the tree looks better because normally willow trees or more like a circle in drooping down
Weeping willows droop down and are usually dome shaped. Other willow species don't have that characteristic. Thanks, I has grown back nicely since i did that video.
i had an anxiety attack watching him pollard that tree. I am so scared of heights I can't even get on a 1 story roof. If he slipped and hit that line with the saw, holy crap.
This tree was topped, not pollarded. I should've known the moment I seen you with spikes on that it was going to be a hack job. Maybe learn A300 standards and a bit of SRT.
Thanks man. Appreciate you.
Topped, pollarded, screwed up, call it what you like. I know it’s a messed up thing to do to a tree but I’m just doing what the client wanted. We told him what the implications are and he wanted to proceed.
What more can I do? Walk off site and quit my job because a client doesn’t appreciate good arboriculture?
@@Point5TV it must be a hard part of the job to see people doing what you wouldn’t want done 😬
PLEASE eat more, Sir
Best comment here 😆
A friend translated "thin oy ah" as "things like that". I wish the English would learn English.
I have no idea what you are talking about
@@Point5TV I typed it out and you don't understand? No wonder the English can't speak English.
Never pollard a tree. It creates high maintenance and weakness in the tree.
Agree about the maintenance and weakness. Not sure I agree that trees should never be pollarded.
Pollarding has its uses in forest management and as long as the risks are managed, surely it’s better to pollard than to fell the tree?
If it wasn’t for pollarding countless trees would be felled. A maintained pollard is perfectly safe and will live much longer.