I just performed the burn test from 1-8 with my new detai l r using my 330w portable power station. It worked beautifully and after the first line I only burned with 4-8. Tol me 8 is too hot, and 4 is minimum. Now I know I can burn while being a nomad living in my truck and trailer soon. Now for more practicing and yes I love the detailer and plan to get a few more tips later. Thank you your suggestion was spot on, I'm so happy with it.
I am so glad I found your page. You have excellent information. I am new to Pyrography, and I am in love. I was looking into shading, and your video with the sunflower is great. That is now on my list. Do you still do the Crate Club? I followed the link, but only saw 2023. I'm excited to keep learning from your page!
Glad you’re enjoying it! Pyrography is totally addictive in my opinion. As for the Crate Club, I couldn’t keep up with the demand. 😅 I have a few overstock boxes left in my Etsy shop called Red Roof Barn that you can check out. Hope you find something fun to burn! 🔥🙌
You may have said what to use, my question is, if you want to add color, I'm using oil based, what spray finish do you use before you add the color. I did not know that oil would melt, that's why I love your informative videos.
Needed to ask a question about the packages of cut wood you can purchase from craft stores . Are they good to wood burn on. Plan to go and purchase some wood very soon. Thank you for all your videos they are very helpful.
Depends on what type of woods it is. I’ve got a whole playlist to help people choose the best wood and avoid the worst… hope this helps! Best Wood for Wood Burning ruclips.net/p/PLlOnZI-MNsnFYwCARY_sRAK9zTh3YvUK5
Hi I've using a coffee as a wood stain on untreated wood but I'm trying to figure out to seal it also it has little bit of acrylic pen paint so any thoughts would appreciate it and I will watch this video also
About finishes on leather... Have you used mink oil as a preservative for the material. I'm just starting with woodburning, but I know leather quite well. I can not recommend mink oil enough.
I sand before burning, usually not after although sometimes it calls for it. Here’s a video I talk all about sanding: ruclips.net/video/OJ7HsQwH244/видео.htmlsi=XZeMv7gWjVozZHCq
I’m new to this whole finishing thing…. Didn’t even know it was a thing Lol. So I’m using Torch paste, on Willow wood. Just for our own wall/countertop decors would I need like a polycrylic AND a mineral oil? Or just the polycrylic? I just want a gloss or finish of some sort but I’ve been told that I need to stain and finish with a mineral oil so I’m confused do I use both or just one? I know not to use anything other than mineral oil on food surfaces
I don’t use the mineral oil first because I don’t want it to repel the polycrylic which is a water-based product. If you used an oil based product like polyurethane, you could probably do a mineral oil first. But simply seal front and back and the sides with the polycrylic 👍
If I already used the spray clear coat on my wood burning, will liquitex clear gloss be ok to use on it or will it damage my projects? Please let me no Im new to the art
Honestly, I’m not familiar with Liquitex clear gloss. Most finishes are fine with a spray coat first as long as you lightly sand it before you apply the next finish. I would try it out on a practice piece.
Oh great question. I should have prefaced that. Usually you want to seal it with something else before you add resin. I like to use a brush on polycrylic or a polyurethane to give the resin a solid surface to work with. Otherwise, the air from the wood will get up into the resin. Then, of course, once you add the resin, you need to use a torch to pop the bubbles on the surface before it cures.
I’ve just had a custom Didgeridoo made with burnt art designs on it. The clear lacquer has caused it to be sticky/tacky over the designs. The artist said, it will stay sticky/tacky for a good few weeks. Apparently the stickiness/tackiness is caused by sum reaction with the burnt wood and the lacquer. Is this true? Will the stickiness/tackiness eventually go away?
I don’t know much about woods used for didgeridoos and how sappy they are. Saps from some woods definitely interact with or resist sealants, so it’s possible. Wish I could be more help
![Wood Burning Techniques for Beginners: [4 Basic Pyrography Techniques + Bonus]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/UVT1biX3Vmk/mqdefault.jpg)
I just performed the burn test from 1-8 with my new detai l r using my 330w portable power station. It worked beautifully and after the first line I only burned with 4-8. Tol me 8 is too hot, and 4 is minimum.
Now I know I can burn while being a nomad living in my truck and trailer soon. Now for more practicing and yes I love the detailer and plan to get a few more tips later. Thank you your suggestion was spot on, I'm so happy with it.
Yaaassss! Love to hear you’re enjoying it 🙌🔥
I really didn’t know there was this much to finishing. Boy did I oversimplify. Very well done presentation!
Thank you! Glad it was helpful to you!
Thank you for your help really appreciate it.
Happy to help 😊
I am so glad I found your page. You have excellent information. I am new to Pyrography, and I am in love. I was looking into shading, and your video with the sunflower is great. That is now on my list. Do you still do the Crate Club? I followed the link, but only saw 2023. I'm excited to keep learning from your page!
Glad you’re enjoying it! Pyrography is totally addictive in my opinion. As for the Crate Club, I couldn’t keep up with the demand. 😅 I have a few overstock boxes left in my Etsy shop called Red Roof Barn that you can check out. Hope you find something fun to burn! 🔥🙌
This is so helpful! thank you so much!
Happy to hear that 😊
You may have said what to use, my question is, if you want to add color, I'm using oil based, what spray finish do you use before you add the color. I did not know that oil would melt, that's why I love your informative videos.
I would use a varnish for oil based projects. Glad you’re enjoying the videos 🔥🙌
Have you ever tried Renaissance wax on a burn? I used to use it on metal jewellery x
Ooo interesting! I haven’t tried that. I would recommend getting a scrap piece of wood and trying it out to see how the sealant responds to the wood.
Needed to ask a question about the packages of cut wood you can purchase from craft stores . Are they good to wood burn on. Plan to go and purchase some wood very soon. Thank you for all your videos they are very helpful.
Depends on what type of woods it is. I’ve got a whole playlist to help people choose the best wood and avoid the worst… hope this helps! Best Wood for Wood Burning
ruclips.net/p/PLlOnZI-MNsnFYwCARY_sRAK9zTh3YvUK5
Hi I've using a coffee as a wood stain on untreated wood but I'm trying to figure out to seal it also it has little bit of acrylic pen paint so any thoughts would appreciate it and I will watch this video also
Most sealants should be fine for coffee, stain and acrylic. If you are concerned, I would try it out on a scrap piece of wood first.
About finishes on leather... Have you used mink oil as a preservative for the material. I'm just starting with woodburning, but I know leather quite well. I can not recommend mink oil enough.
Never tried it but I heard it was fantastic. Nice to hear a personal recommendation from a fellow pyro though 🙌 thanks!
I recall seeing somewhere to give your pyrography project a fine sanding before sealing it. Do you ever sand yours before sealing?
I sand before burning, usually not after although sometimes it calls for it. Here’s a video I talk all about sanding: ruclips.net/video/OJ7HsQwH244/видео.htmlsi=XZeMv7gWjVozZHCq
Hello , I am looking the lacquer which will make Carrom board very slippery and shiny too .. please help me to get the right product ..
thank you
Your best bet would be either epoxy or several layers of gloss lacquer
@@BurnSavvycan you suggest me which company’s product is better and which is available on Amazon??? Thanks your reply
I’m new to this whole finishing thing…. Didn’t even know it was a thing Lol. So I’m using Torch paste, on Willow wood. Just for our own wall/countertop decors would I need like a polycrylic AND a mineral oil? Or just the polycrylic? I just want a gloss or finish of some sort but I’ve been told that I need to stain and finish with a mineral oil so I’m confused do I use both or just one? I know not to use anything other than mineral oil on food surfaces
I don’t use the mineral oil first because I don’t want it to repel the polycrylic which is a water-based product. If you used an oil based product like polyurethane, you could probably do a mineral oil first. But simply seal front and back and the sides with the polycrylic 👍
If I already used the spray clear coat on my wood burning, will liquitex clear gloss be ok to use on it or will it damage my projects? Please let me no Im new to the art
Honestly, I’m not familiar with Liquitex clear gloss. Most finishes are fine with a spray coat first as long as you lightly sand it before you apply the next finish. I would try it out on a practice piece.
I have a question though I want to use color such as sharpie markers and acrylic paint markers what do I use to finish my work
Because of the sharpie that bleeds so much, I would start with several very very light coats of spray paint.
Okay thanks for the reply
I use both spray first when I use color and then a brush semi gloss. If using resin how do you not get bubbles in it?
Oh great question. I should have prefaced that. Usually you want to seal it with something else before you add resin. I like to use a brush on polycrylic or a polyurethane to give the resin a solid surface to work with. Otherwise, the air from the wood will get up into the resin. Then, of course, once you add the resin, you need to use a torch to pop the bubbles on the surface before it cures.
@@BurnSavvy Tysm that will help a lot
@conniecoffee8372 happy to help!
I’ve just had a custom Didgeridoo made with burnt art designs on it. The clear lacquer has caused it to be sticky/tacky over the designs. The artist said, it will stay sticky/tacky for a good few weeks. Apparently the stickiness/tackiness is caused by sum reaction with the burnt wood and the lacquer. Is this true? Will the stickiness/tackiness eventually go away?
I don’t know much about woods used for didgeridoos and how sappy they are. Saps from some woods definitely interact with or resist sealants, so it’s possible. Wish I could be more help
@@BurnSavvy No problem. Thanks for your reply