Up here in Canada we also use Aluminum Tape for the Ducts. I also installed Rock wool around all Ducts (hot and Cold) just so the heat goes to where it's suppose to and not radiate in the floor joist. Sorry my OCD. Of course this was on my house.
Back in the day, it wasn't as easy to cut the sheet metal with a utility knife like that. It was a gauge or two heavier I guess. We had to cut a relief cut (from corner to corner) with the narrow side of a large flat screwdriver (and a hammer). It worked surprisingly well too!!
Plus, when i got my tankless water heater installed at the same thing as my furnace, i wished i would've had a recirculating valve installed, so I don't waste water down the drain as I'm waiting for the hot water.
Thanks for sharing. Lots of good info. When I had AC put in they determined we needed more air return flow. They were correct. The builders put two nice big 18x24 air return vents. One upstairs one down. Except they just immediately fed both into a single cavity that was about 4 inches high and about 24 inches wide. So they put another return in our upstairs bonus room. It pulls a ton of air through the new one. They said ideally there would be more capacity. Anyways, they had to insulate the 8-foot section of new return line through the garage. I asked them why and they said it’s code even though it really doesn’t make sense in my application. We don’t get super cold or hot and the other main branches aren’t insulated. And to boot, I have a leak in our crawl space where a branch line came apart off of the main line. It’s all flex garbage down there. I just kind of shoved it back in the hole and tried hold it together. But no fear because I have 8 feet of insulated return line. I am all efficient 😅. One day, I would like to put in a couple returns in the ceiling upstairs to help with air flow upstairs. I’ll get to it… eventually… probably after I fix the leak. But I probably won’t fix the leak until I replace the CPVC pipes. That little bit of leak might help keep my pipes from freezing in the crawl space.
you are correct sealing furnace in basement install doesnt effect efficiency that much because its inside your your home, however if you have ducks going under your home(crawl space) or in your attic, in unconditioned space any little gap will be wasted energy
Manual J does not pick equipment. That's what the guidance in Manual S(election) is for (in combination with the extended performance data of the devices you are considering plus the heating/cooling loads from Manual J)
I've been thinking about putting in one of those Mr Cool Universal heat pump split systems in my grandad's old house that I'm working on. It had an old package unit outside that croaked shortly before my grandad passed, so the house has just been surviving off of 3 window units until I can get some new central air. I like the idea of hanging the condensing unit on the side of the house so there's not a huge slab between the house and the carport. Watching these duct work videos has been some good inspiration for stuff I'm gonna have to get into eventually.
I am at tin knocker by trade I had my own heating cooling company for over 35 years codes are totally different in the US in the are Canada for installing furnace and ductwork
Thanks Handyman for all these details and simple explanations. I have really learned a lot about my own furnace system from watching this series. Great Content! Happy New Year to you and your family! 🎉😊
Another great video - very succinct! I had a professor in college that used that word all the time, succinct. In fact she said I needed to be more succinct on most of my papers. She's probably right... I'm surprised you didn't make any comments about flex-duct, duct board, or anything there. Obviously this is the superior installation method used by pro's...sheet metal and round ducts in the basement etc. Metal duct work can sweat pretty bad in plenum or attic spaces due to the extreme heat, dew point, condensation forms etc. I feel like my 50's kit house (around 900 sq ft) should have went with a mini-split instead of what I did by running duct work in the narrow attic space with a traditional upflow forced air system...live and learn!
I have only seen the flex duct on really big houses where they have multiple furnaces and one is put up in the attic. Most all my experience with HVAC is furnaces in a basement. I really like mini splits for heat and cooling. They only work for certain areas of the country. When its -10 they are useless. I'm sure technology will improve so they work in colder temperatures.
I had a new furnace installed a couple years ago. It's a 96% efficiency furnace. I wonder if it would be worth it to install a HRV (Heat Recovery Ventilator)? Would it save me any money, because my fresh air is coming the outside now. Because i wouldn't have to heat the freezing air in the winter.
Good stuff handyman. Helped me understand our HVAC a lot better. I have an odd question. Our house is old AF and has 1 old furnace that takes care of 800sq/ft of the original house. It’s a 96% efficient system since it pumps water all day long. The new side was built on 2007 and has its own separate furnace, and has a pump but I’ve never seen it evacuate water. Was the previous owner an idiot and added it and it was an 80% efficient system the entire time?
Just finished remodel buildout on my wife's new to us commercial building for a medical practice. It has 3 hvac units. One of the air handers is in the attic the other 2 are in a closet. We are in FL. I was able to use the many years of RUclips University your channel has provided to accomplish so much. Thank you. We notice that we cannot turn the unit off, the one in the attic. The fan will run even when the thermostat panel says off. The only way to completely turn off the unit is at the panel. This can't be right...I assume it must be wired wrong. Thoughts???? Thanks again
It sounds like something isn't right. I'd pull the panel off and see it the blinking light is flashing any codes. I'd also check and see if the tstat wire is correct on both ends. Its a long shot but the wire cold be shorted some where telling it to run the fan.
I had a new HVAC heat pump installed 14 months ago. When the compressor comes on, it makes a loud clunk. Is there a way to install a soft start without breaking the warranty? Thanks!
@@TheHandyman1 I haven't yet... Keep forgetting when they come and then don't have time to call them back. 🙄 😂 I know it's a relay and I know the cheaper ones tend to be noisy. Not really a clunk as much as a loud click.
After I lower my thermostat and the furnace shuts off, it comes back on again 60 sec later for about 30 sec. Thermostat does this twice before settling into the set temp. Is that normal?
Sounds like your flame sensor needs to be cleaned. If it can’t properly sense the flame coming out of the burner it will cut the power to the gas valve and will recycle the furnace. This would typically lead to a flame lockout also so there might be another issue maybe with the thermostat. Good luck 👍
Up here in Canada we also use Aluminum Tape for the Ducts. I also installed Rock wool around all Ducts (hot and Cold) just so the heat goes to where it's suppose to and not radiate in the floor joist. Sorry my OCD. Of course this was on my house.
Back in the day, it wasn't as easy to cut the sheet metal with a utility knife like that. It was a gauge or two heavier I guess.
We had to cut a relief cut (from corner to corner) with the narrow side of a large flat screwdriver (and a hammer).
It worked surprisingly well too!!
Nice work Handyman, good to see that there are still people who also put effort into making things neat and clean with an install.
Thanks 👍
Plus, when i got my tankless water heater installed at the same thing as my furnace, i wished i would've had a recirculating valve installed, so I don't waste water down the drain as I'm waiting for the hot water.
I've seen almost all your videos but this one sealed the deal for me. You are the smartest handyguy I've ever seen.
Thanks, Happy New Year!
Thanks for sharing. Lots of good info. When I had AC put in they determined we needed more air return flow. They were correct. The builders put two nice big 18x24 air return vents. One upstairs one down. Except they just immediately fed both into a single cavity that was about 4 inches high and about 24 inches wide. So they put another return in our upstairs bonus room. It pulls a ton of air through the new one. They said ideally there would be more capacity.
Anyways, they had to insulate the 8-foot section of new return line through the garage. I asked them why and they said it’s code even though it really doesn’t make sense in my application. We don’t get super cold or hot and the other main branches aren’t insulated.
And to boot, I have a leak in our crawl space where a branch line came apart off of the main line. It’s all flex garbage down there. I just kind of shoved it back in the hole and tried hold it together.
But no fear because I have 8 feet of insulated return line. I am all efficient 😅.
One day, I would like to put in a couple returns in the ceiling upstairs to help with air flow upstairs. I’ll get to it… eventually… probably after I fix the leak. But I probably won’t fix the leak until I replace the CPVC pipes. That little bit of leak might help keep my pipes from freezing in the crawl space.
you are correct sealing furnace in basement install doesnt effect efficiency that much because its inside your your home, however if you have ducks going under your home(crawl space) or in your attic, in unconditioned space any little gap will be wasted energy
Manual J does not pick equipment. That's what the guidance in Manual S(election) is for (in combination with the extended performance data of the devices you are considering plus the heating/cooling loads from Manual J)
Really liked all the commentary on this one Handy. Happy New Year! HandyOn
I've been thinking about putting in one of those Mr Cool Universal heat pump split systems in my grandad's old house that I'm working on. It had an old package unit outside that croaked shortly before my grandad passed, so the house has just been surviving off of 3 window units until I can get some new central air. I like the idea of hanging the condensing unit on the side of the house so there's not a huge slab between the house and the carport. Watching these duct work videos has been some good inspiration for stuff I'm gonna have to get into eventually.
Nice job Handy. Lot of work, but fun to do something you don't do too often. As long as dont run into any big issues 👍
I am at tin knocker by trade I had my own heating cooling company for over 35 years codes are totally different in the US in the are Canada for installing furnace and ductwork
Nice job sealing the duct work!!
Great video, Handyman. Thanks for the informative content.
Thanks Handyman for all these details and simple explanations. I have really learned a lot about my own furnace system from watching this series. Great Content! Happy New Year to you and your family! 🎉😊
Easy on the good bye bud! :) Great series keep it up Handy
Another great video - very succinct! I had a professor in college that used that word all the time, succinct. In fact she said I needed to be more succinct on most of my papers. She's probably right... I'm surprised you didn't make any comments about flex-duct, duct board, or anything there. Obviously this is the superior installation method used by pro's...sheet metal and round ducts in the basement etc. Metal duct work can sweat pretty bad in plenum or attic spaces due to the extreme heat, dew point, condensation forms etc. I feel like my 50's kit house (around 900 sq ft) should have went with a mini-split instead of what I did by running duct work in the narrow attic space with a traditional upflow forced air system...live and learn!
I have only seen the flex duct on really big houses where they have multiple furnaces and one is put up in the attic. Most all my experience with HVAC is furnaces in a basement. I really like mini splits for heat and cooling. They only work for certain areas of the country. When its -10 they are useless. I'm sure technology will improve so they work in colder temperatures.
The technical word for that temperature swing is called "hysteresis".
Is it really easier to cut the duct metal with the utility knife and a hammer rather than the tin snips? I do love those Stanley utility knives.
It’s go time baby!!!!
I had a new furnace installed a couple years ago. It's a 96% efficiency furnace. I wonder if it would be worth it to install a HRV (Heat Recovery Ventilator)? Would it save me any money, because my fresh air is coming the outside now. Because i wouldn't have to heat the freezing air in the winter.
Painting that on help me bunch, told my brother in law and he claims yo have saved 15% on his heating/electric bill.
That is a lot of savings.
What kind of paint/sealant did you use?
@trainsandmarbles7252 it was 1030 sealant from Lowe's.
Good stuff handyman. Helped me understand our HVAC a lot better. I have an odd question. Our house is old AF and has 1 old furnace that takes care of 800sq/ft of the original house. It’s a 96% efficient system since it pumps water all day long. The new side was built on 2007 and has its own separate furnace, and has a pump but I’ve never seen it evacuate water. Was the previous owner an idiot and added it and it was an 80% efficient system the entire time?
You would be able to tell by looking at the furnace if it is a high efficiency or a standard 80 %. Does it vent out the roof in bvent or pvc?
Both are PVC
Just finished remodel buildout on my wife's new to us commercial building for a medical practice. It has 3 hvac units. One of the air handers is in the attic the other 2 are in a closet. We are in FL. I was able to use the many years of RUclips University your channel has provided to accomplish so much. Thank you.
We notice that we cannot turn the unit off, the one in the attic. The fan will run even when the thermostat panel says off. The only way to completely turn off the unit is at the panel. This can't be right...I assume it must be wired wrong. Thoughts???? Thanks again
It sounds like something isn't right. I'd pull the panel off and see it the blinking light is flashing any codes. I'd also check and see if the tstat wire is correct on both ends. Its a long shot but the wire cold be shorted some where telling it to run the fan.
@TheHandyman you mentioned about the duct work pulling / releasing and making a noise. Does that always mean it needs more cold air return?
Not always but it would be the first thing I check out.
What was your cost for everything? How much do you think you saved by doing it yourself? I’m sure you saved a ton, just curious.
All the materials were only $4,200. That includes the price of the furnace.
does a second story need a return vent? I have gotten mixed results on this.
Yes. If your doing things by the book every room should have a return.
My ceiling vents sweat during the summer and drip water onto the floors. My father told me the vent pipes need to be wrapped. What say you?
🇺🇸🤘 Heck Yeah Handy Dandy 🤘🇺🇸
🇺🇸 🎉🎉Happy New Years🎉🎉 🇺🇸
Were is the evaporator? I only see a furnace
did you watch the video before commenting?
Sorry i missed your comment about adding in the future. @@TheHandyman1
I need to insulate my ductwork because it’s in an unconditioned basement but I don’t know what product to use!
I had a new HVAC heat pump installed 14 months ago. When the compressor comes on, it makes a loud clunk. Is there a way to install a soft start without breaking the warranty?
Thanks!
Have you asked the company that installed it? I'm not sure what the clunk would be.
@@TheHandyman1 I haven't yet... Keep forgetting when they come and then don't have time to call them back. 🙄 😂
I know it's a relay and I know the cheaper ones tend to be noisy. Not really a clunk as much as a loud click.
The beards back
After I lower my thermostat and the furnace shuts off, it comes back on again 60 sec later for about 30 sec. Thermostat does this twice before settling into the set temp. Is that normal?
When it comes back on for 30 seconds it might be just the fan kicking on and not the flames. It doesn't sound normal.
Sounds like your flame sensor needs to be cleaned. If it can’t properly sense the flame coming out of the burner it will cut the power to the gas valve and will recycle the furnace.
This would typically lead to a flame lockout also so there might be another issue maybe with the thermostat.
Good luck 👍
Swing=differential
Who else has one tin snip that is always the wrong one you need, raise your 🖐
🎉🎉
Was that a Biden moment there before the intro? If you know you know.
Yummy.
Very!