You have a great looking C-10....1972....I'd love to have one like that.....with a 327 for nostalgic reasons.....good videos.....I'm learning to understand carburetors and distributors and I have two, almost 3 old Fords that I'm working on.....love the older vehicles....most types and all brands......I do have preferences, but the old Chevys and Fords are my favorites.....thanks for making and sharing your videos.....regards, La Grange, Texas
Make a video on how much better it performs when you hook up the vacuum canister on that distributor. Use Manifold vacuum and then idle it down and your afr will be so much easier to adjust. It will make more power everywhere under the curve. It's free power!
You hook vacuum canister hose to the ported vacuum source on the carb. The carb ported vacuum source is the fitting on passenger side of carb above air fuel mixture screw. It only gives vacuum when throttle plates are open. Zero vacuum at idle.
For those who don't know. The vacuum supply is to provide timing advance under load. This is affected by the diagram, the spring inside and the amount of vacuum underload once the throttle valve flap is opened by your foot. There are factory specs for this and you need a vacuum gauge and a timing light plus the specifications at idle, under load at a set rpm for example the 102 motor for the 123 and 124 mercedes were 8 to 13 deg at idle and 34 at 5300 rpm. Neighbours wont love you whilst trying to set those😂😂😂. Always use the AutoData books for the reference data or look this up online before you start. If you have what is today sold as a brake bleeder vacuum pump, you have the first part of the tools, you also need a timing light. Get one with an adjustable setting and digital readout.
Right on man! You are on the right track! See Uncle Lukes multiple videos on ignition timing adjusting (including vacuum advance adjustments). When you plugged in your vacuum advance, the static ign. timing, plus the vac. advance was too much! Luke will explain how to set the static timing 1st (w/vac. adv. hose disconnected and plugged). Remember static timing is more for power production & vac. adv. is all about light throttle fuel economy! As you open the throttle & the vac. naturally drops, the vac. adv. also retards in sinc with the manifold vacuum. Luke is famous for his combined ignition & carb tuning, a Great teacher to learn from! There's more to be gained yet from your engine! Keep learning bro., you got this!
Several things 1st 1 jets are probably too rich, opening idle speed says that. When you adjust that means you're to rich. Opening the idle screw makes it worse. The transition slots become exposed then you're running worse. So always start and use a vacuum gauge timing light, read them plugs after and 10.1 means going down jet sizes. 12.6-13.1 is ideal auto tune a carb gtfo it's mechanical.
Have you experimented with the timing curve yet? Lean at idle is not that big of a deal, but under load it's a big issue. Shoot for 12.6-13.0 for best power.
I think because you probably still have the gas tank mounted behind the seat and when full the gas is higher than the carb, maybe a better fuel delivery system would solve those problems when gas gauge says half full?
I would think you have it jetted way too hot. I mean, it may just depend on the power you are going for with the truck, but if it were me, I would throw smaller jets at it and get a little more adjustment for the extreme temp swings if it is a daily driver.
Do you know what your base timing is? Should be in the 12° degree range (with vacuum advance disconnected and plugged) , total advance around 36° by 3000 rpm. You are on the right track with your tuning, but carb and timing settings go hand in hand.
What size carb (CFM)? How is it jetted? Have you confirmed at idle that the throttle blades are not exposing the transfer circuit providing fuel from the main circuit, not just the idle circuit? Have you checked your fuel pressure? Too much fuel pressure can cause the issues with fuel metering. 13-14 is a bit to lean for idle, you want a little extra fuel on idle to help avoid the lean dip when stab the gas (around 12:1), this works in unison with the size of the booster & booster jet. Also, it should be noted that you should only do this kind of tuning with the engine at full operating temperature, not sure if you warmed the truck up before you started tuning.
May I humbly suggest David Vizard’s Ignition timing video? I looked up Uncle Luke without any success. I don’t know why. Was that a reference to Uncle Tony’s channel? Idk
Screen record. Pro tip: Hold your phone up to the camera so you can sync up the video. Or play a video on your phone and sync up the audio with your camera.
@@theregokeet Assuming this is an android app? Sorry for the questions I am not an android person and just got my CC yesterday and want to do a similar video.
Spam away, it only helps with the algorithm I would assume 😂 It's not a 4 corner. The idle transfer slots is another thing I have to look at. I've got the timing squared away now I have to tune the carb.
@@theregokeet where is your timing set... Base? Total(mechanical)? And I assume since it wasn't hooked up in these videos that your vacuum advance is still unhooked?
@theregokeet if it is not a radical build, you can get away with 36 total putting base around 14ish... Then if you decide to go with ported vacuum it will only add advance once tye throttle is applied. It's not bad to get your timing up that high as long as you don't end up with detonation (pinging) But my first line of attack would be pull the carb and set the primary transfer slot back to square then advance my base timing up to get my idle where I like it.
Jets too rich! Then open the secondarys not the primaris you are in the transfer slots! Close the primaris Adjust your caburator right and you will be happy!
Yup. Just run out and buy a new vehicle, or maybe have your butler drive you everywhere. Better yet, get a turbine powered car. No afr to adjust at all....
Ypu are super rich at idle and when you open uo the throttle blades by turning idle up, you are exposing the idles transfer slots way too much! You need to taie the carb off and look at the transfer slot exposure..... it should only be .060" or enough to maoe the transfer slot look like a square. Once you reset your transfer slot then set your base timing to get your idle rpm close to where it needs to be.
![ARGENTINA vs. CHILE [3-0] | RESUMEN | ELIMINATORIAS SUDAMERICANAS | FECHA 7](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/De3AWmXzhuA/mqdefault.jpg)
You have a great looking C-10....1972....I'd love to have one like that.....with a 327 for nostalgic reasons.....good videos.....I'm learning to understand carburetors and distributors and I have two, almost 3 old Fords that I'm working on.....love the older vehicles....most types and all brands......I do have preferences, but the old Chevys and Fords are my favorites.....thanks for making and sharing your videos.....regards, La Grange, Texas
Make a video on how much better it performs when you hook up the vacuum canister on that distributor. Use Manifold vacuum and then idle it down and your afr will be so much easier to adjust. It will make more power everywhere under the curve. It's free power!
I'm still trying to figure it all out. I hooked up the vacuum on the distributor but it gave it way too much timing. Still researching...
You hook vacuum canister hose to the ported vacuum source on the carb. The carb ported vacuum source is the fitting on passenger side of carb above air fuel mixture screw. It only gives vacuum when throttle plates are open. Zero vacuum at idle.
For those who don't know. The vacuum supply is to provide timing advance under load.
This is affected by the diagram, the spring inside and the amount of vacuum underload once the throttle valve flap is opened by your foot. There are factory specs for this and you need a vacuum gauge and a timing light plus the specifications at idle, under load at a set rpm for example the 102 motor for the 123 and 124 mercedes were 8 to 13 deg at idle and 34 at 5300 rpm. Neighbours wont love you whilst trying to set those😂😂😂. Always use the AutoData books for the reference data or look this up online before you start. If you have what is today sold as a brake bleeder vacuum pump, you have the first part of the tools, you also need a timing light. Get one with an adjustable setting and digital readout.
Right on man! You are on the right track! See Uncle Lukes multiple videos on ignition timing adjusting (including vacuum advance adjustments). When you plugged in your vacuum advance, the static ign. timing, plus the vac. advance was too much! Luke will explain how to set the static timing 1st (w/vac. adv. hose disconnected and plugged). Remember static timing is more for power production & vac. adv. is all about light throttle fuel economy! As you open the throttle & the vac. naturally drops, the vac. adv. also retards in sinc with the manifold vacuum. Luke is famous for his combined ignition & carb tuning, a Great teacher to learn from! There's more to be gained yet from your engine! Keep learning bro., you got this!
I'll have to look those up. Thanks!
Several things 1st 1 jets are probably too rich, opening idle speed says that. When you adjust that means you're to rich. Opening the idle screw makes it worse. The transition slots become exposed then you're running worse. So always start and use a vacuum gauge timing light, read them plugs after and 10.1 means going down jet sizes. 12.6-13.1 is ideal auto tune a carb gtfo it's mechanical.
You also can adjust your idle rpm with open secondarys.
I adjusted the transition slots and figured out I have an allen screw to adjust the secondaries. Thanks for the info.
😂😂😂 yeah totally agree... I'm puzzled how people fall for this 😂😂😂.
Play with the floats makes big difference in afr hot and cold..it sounds like a basic adjustment causing the greef...
Or fuel psi also makes big difference in afr..
@@jondough4116 adjusting the floats is part of my next update. Fuel PSI is another thing I'd like to get locked down.
To richen it up on hard accel, try putting a lighter spring in the vacuum pot on the carb.
the vac advance doesn’t look hooked up to me
Have you experimented with the timing curve yet? Lean at idle is not that big of a deal, but under load it's a big issue. Shoot for 12.6-13.0 for best power.
Timing is my next move. Pretty sure something isn't right.
Timing should be first move even with crappy carb...harder but can be done..
I think because you probably still have the gas tank mounted behind the seat and when full the gas is higher than the carb, maybe a better fuel delivery system would solve those problems when gas gauge says half full?
Possibly, I think it has something to do with the pickup on the tank
I would think you have it jetted way too hot. I mean, it may just depend on the power you are going for with the truck, but if it were me, I would throw smaller jets at it and get a little more adjustment for the extreme temp swings if it is a daily driver.
It may be. I have no idea what jets it has in it.
Do you know what your base timing is? Should be in the 12° degree range (with vacuum advance disconnected and plugged) , total advance around 36° by 3000 rpm. You are on the right track with your tuning, but carb and timing settings go hand in hand.
Seems to me you can use CC to tune the carb and not even turn on auto-tune.
Your idle goes high because the carb cheater is imitating a vacuum leak.
Same as opening up one of the main vacuum ports on the base of the carb.
What size carb (CFM)? How is it jetted? Have you confirmed at idle that the throttle blades are not exposing the transfer circuit providing fuel from the main circuit, not just the idle circuit? Have you checked your fuel pressure? Too much fuel pressure can cause the issues with fuel metering.
13-14 is a bit to lean for idle, you want a little extra fuel on idle to help avoid the lean dip when stab the gas (around 12:1), this works in unison with the size of the booster & booster jet.
Also, it should be noted that you should only do this kind of tuning with the engine at full operating temperature, not sure if you warmed the truck up before you started tuning.
May I humbly suggest David Vizard’s Ignition timing video? I looked up Uncle Luke without any success. I don’t know why. Was that a reference to Uncle Tony’s channel? Idk
"Uncle Luke" = thunderhead289 aka one of the inventors of the carb cheater.
Thanks for the suggestion. I'll for sure take a look at it
Somewhat un-related. What did you use to overlay the app output to the live video?
Screen record. Pro tip: Hold your phone up to the camera so you can sync up the video. Or play a video on your phone and sync up the audio with your camera.
@@theregokeet Assuming this is an android app? Sorry for the questions I am not an android person and just got my CC yesterday and want to do a similar video.
@@stonehillridge2619 Yes, they don't have an apple app for it. I believe the developers recommended buying a cheap prepaid android to use with it.
@@theregokeetPerfect - thanks for feedback!
@@stonehillridge2619 No problem. Good luck!
What size power valve do you have in that carb right now?
Not sure, I didn't think to remember what it was when we rebuilt it.
Sorry to spam your comments but is this carb a 4 corner idle screw?
Spam away, it only helps with the algorithm I would assume 😂
It's not a 4 corner. The idle transfer slots is another thing I have to look at. I've got the timing squared away now I have to tune the carb.
@@theregokeet where is your timing set...
Base?
Total(mechanical)?
And I assume since it wasn't hooked up in these videos that your vacuum advance is still unhooked?
@@nwmod39 10 BTDC...32 Total mechanical. I hooked up the vac advance it was giving around 44 total so I unhooked it.
@theregokeet if it is not a radical build, you can get away with 36 total putting base around 14ish...
Then if you decide to go with ported vacuum it will only add advance once tye throttle is applied.
It's not bad to get your timing up that high as long as you don't end up with detonation (pinging)
But my first line of attack would be pull the carb and set the primary transfer slot back to square then advance my base timing up to get my idle where I like it.
Jets too rich!
Then open the secondarys not the primaris you are in the transfer slots! Close the primaris
Adjust your caburator right and you will be happy!
You put on o2 sensor n map sensor on a old car? Lol did u know new cars with those Lil pesky things come install factory.
Yup. Just run out and buy a new vehicle, or maybe have your butler drive you everywhere. Better yet, get a turbine powered car. No afr to adjust at all....
Possibly your power valve is wrong size.
possibly, I need to check it out to see what size it is
@@theregokeet ruclips.net/video/CjuQx7GHfqY/видео.htmlsi=YTrV2X06QFd1bs7T
@@theregokeet ruclips.net/video/Vh9RSX5ec5g/видео.htmlsi=QV7xHHaBn5AeUam8
@@theregokeet These two videos is what I've been doing for decades it's the best.
@@theregokeet Most of all you need that vacuum advance
accelerator pump? vacuum leak?
fuel supply issue perhaps
Ypu are super rich at idle and when you open uo the throttle blades by turning idle up, you are exposing the idles transfer slots way too much!
You need to taie the carb off and look at the transfer slot exposure..... it should only be .060" or enough to maoe the transfer slot look like a square.
Once you reset your transfer slot then set your base timing to get your idle rpm close to where it needs to be.
Notice how your afr leans out a tiny bit once you lowered your idle setting....
Your distributor is not phazed correctly. You should seek professional guidance to make it run correctly without this band aid fix.