GMC Yukon HVAC Blower Motor Won't Turn On
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- Опубликовано: 15 окт 2024
- How to test the blower motor switches, blower resistor (which is a module on this one) and the blower motor itself will be shown in this video.
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Paul Danner is a one in a million instructor. I didnt know anything about automotive controls a year ago, now I troubleshoot my own vehicles because SD Premium opened up that world to me. Thank you Paul!
Thank you for this comment! That is awesome to hear.
m
This is a right diagnoses and helpful.But there is still my be a soldiering problem within the bowler Model or a losing harness.
I did mention that and also that the harness was fine.
@@ScannerDanner,
You are so blessed to have a readily available camera man you already know how to communicate with. Having a living breathing mind behind that lens leaves you free to teach.
I bet a close inspection of that board under a good magnifying lens would reveal just what you said. Thank you lead free solder.
Wow...this is a great video! This guy is very interesting! I usually skip through all the unnecessary blah blah blah, but this guy here makes you want to watch and listen through it all. Great instructor! Best video I've seen yet concenring this subject! And I don't know anything about fixing cars! Lol!! This videos helps! Thanks man!!!😎👍
what a great compliment! thank you so much
Every day I go through preliminary steps and think of the variables to a situation to carry out a professional diagnosis, and it has made me more successful as a Semi Tech. I would never have known these steps if it wasn't for Paul. Learning from Paul has improved my life, and others that I have help along the way. Thank you.
Thanks so much!
Paul Danner is an awesome instructor. I've been a member of the Scanner Danner Premium channel since early 2015. You can't beat it!
Bill K
Thank you Bill K!
On my 05 Yukon the wires fried 2 times.
bypassed that resistor you're holding. Eliminated it.
I use the heavier 10 wire and ran it to the battery but decided to connect into that red box under the alternator. Used a 30 amp fuse. I bought a heavy switch mounted on the dash.
Has only one speed.
But I also have the rear heater variable. I've had unusual amount of problems with the actuator doors not opening or closing properly so I in the back I opened a hole through the sidewall and permanently put in a screw to hold the flapper door up in the heat position. Since my AC doesn't work anyway
The wires will "fry" when you have connection issues. Resistance equals heat.
Getting older is a bitch, we all need readers one day. Thank you Calib!
Love that you overlayed the "sillyscope" to demonstrate the pulse width modulation, love a good technical demonstration.
Thanks Paul and Caleb. Being a old and former GM tech you two are keeping my mind very active with your channel. Also appreciated the Dodge Dakota vlog and the diagram you did at the end of that vlog...
I have power and ground to the module and ground from the module to the blower motor but no power to the motor. Also when I add ground and power to the motor it doesn’t run. Does that mean it beds both motor and module? Or could the blower motor be being bad cause the module not to provide power?
I have an issue with my blower module. I was told that if the blower module goes bad it can take out the blower motor and vice versa. If the blower motor has too much resistance ( a worn bushing maybe) it can damage the module. One should replace both at the same time, more so if they are original items on an older vehicle.
Thanks for the video, my issue was on the plug that connects to the blower. Same thing just unpluged and pluged it again and it started working like a champ.
*same type of suv*
That was a textbook diagnostic you did there. I'm new to the channel but would love to learn the ways of the Jedi. Electrical diagnostic that I could understand means that I could also learn how to do this stuff myself. That would make my family proud.
Well no fancy gadgets, but seeing you plug that back in and bam working.. so first I found I had power at red and purple. Then I unplugged each one and bam working.. plug at the blower is bad. Blowing cold!!! Thanks , but keep us dummies in mind with only simple gadgets. Great video i learned something about the functions and the fancy tool did a good job showing the pulse from that little wire.
Wow, Great break down in simple terms, yet covering all the bases! I was able to pop open the cover and simply unplug ad plug the connector with key off, key on and the system works again. going to order a new controller if it ever happens again, will be a 5 minute fix! $21 at Rockauto or 40's locally, not a big worry for now!
I have to complement you on the manner in which you explain the two powers and grounds and one signal wire. With old guys, I use a relay analogy, but I would say your method is way way better. Keep up the great work.
absolutely great video explaining how does blower module operates and testing with scope.
I am having dejavú. Pine hollow auto diagnostics had the same video!! good vid paul. we love you. keep up the good work.
Cool man. Tell Ivan I said hello! I don't have time to watch RUclips videos, I don't even watch my own brothers videos.
I'm going to drop by there on of these days when I am up that way. I just like the way you go about teaching this stuff to young and old.
That would be cool man. Thanks!
Your video is getting more and more interesting,like your meter reading and the waveform showing together while you were explaining,nice.
Love the superimposed scope over the video, great editing!
Augmented reality! Rare to see this
Replaced the module/resistor. Exactly what I needed, just watch the $50 at autozone, $30 on amazon. Mine old one had corrosion on the top fins, but at first blower would stop, and come back on with a whack, then wouldn't anymore, but would when connector wiggled a little, but not stay on. Thank you RUclips for helping fix half of my problems.
Come to find out, module wasn't bad, but found wire connector was bad where it connected to fan. New wire bundle is $60at dealership.
@@jeffsummers7242 same here. I cleaned the connector with electronic spray. Now it’s working again. Next time, I’ll replace the entire wire harness like you.
Paul, thanks a lot for what you and Caleb are doing! I'm not even a mechanic, I'm just an IT guy, who's living overseas and like to repair his own cars, but the foundations and logic you teach are incredibly useful to me!
Well-done
You could explain the GMC blower issues well , and diagnose the car problem in detail .
TQ Instructor .
Wow I definitely came back to watch this and it confirms that I did diagnose my neighbors Yukon correctly..at least in the right direction....the voltage does change(I checked with a multimeter) as I raise and lower the fan speed...so I believe the resistor is bad.....thanks for the great help again!!!! (Blower stays on without key)
Good call on that module. There is no input we need to worry about when the fan module keeps the blower on without an ignition feed. Because everything is powered down. Make sense? Good job on checking your blower module (resistor) inputs though. Thank you!
@@ScannerDanner yes since it stays on....we know that it has all the inputs needed to function? Power,ground,signal etc??
@@nutsandbolts7407 it tells us the driver is shorted with almost certainty
@@ScannerDanner oh ok.. awesome great help as always! Thank Yu for your knowledge....looks like il be changing a module tomorrow!
Good morning Paul. That GMC is a diagnosis techs dream/nightmare. Always happy to see a vid from you. Cheers mate.
For sure!
Hey Paul, I see 3 comments with no answer...(also my question) What trouble shooting steps would you take if the moduel is NOT getting power? All fuses are good.
You can tell you are a dam good instructor, thanks
Just done one on a 2002 Chevrolet Impala 3.4 liter, it was a motor resistor, blower motor was good
Thanks Paul and Caleb! Another great vid!
Another great vid Paul!!! I'd like to thank you for helping me troubleshoot a friends crank no start. Your vid on GM fuel pump relay testing was key!! Thank you for the incredible good energy you spread through the universe my friend !!!!!!
Thanks Dave!
Thanks for your videos! I had the same issues with my Avalanche. You saved me $$$$
Same here but I replaced same module still doesn't work. Any suggestions? 08 Avalanche. Thanks.
Yoo. What's up. Danner that noise you here is actually a mini fan up in the headliner that looks like a mini speaker/microphone . It is a fan that is all clogged with dust great vid danner !!!
someone else said that too. Thank you! I'm sure I'll get to hear about it 20 more times :-)
Such is the world I live in now.
Seriously though, I do appreciate the correction.
thanks Danner (Paul) you saved me some time and money... keep up the great videos .. Cheers from Canada
I love when there's a possibility of circuit board repair. 👍 video.
Very detailed and precise description. Awsome explanation. Ty!!
Well done cailub. Sorry if wrong spelling. PAUL although this video is a fairly simple diagnosis I enjoyed it your the man. Keep it up
Caleb :-) Thanks man
Great video, easy to follow. I was able to replace mine in about 20 minutes. Except it didn’t fix my problem but I did notice that there was some blue stuff running out around the old one.
Is there something else I need to do or could be another issue I don’t have a blower for heat or cool. Thanks so much
.
blue stuff as in corrosion on the terminals?
New module and shes blowing like a champ. Do they sell those at the mall? I need to buy my wife a present.
lol
Understanding that you don't really have the time or financial incentive to do so - but it is really satisfying to actually fix one of those modules. As you pointed out it is likely a cracked solder joint and the symptom pointed you to it likely being the motor ground connector pin. Just take a minute or two and get the big soldering iron (or gun) out and reflow the solder on the pin connections (and everything else nearby) on the pc board, adding a bit of solder to make it flow nice. It's a good feeling when you can save your customer - what? - maybe $100 and if it's your own vehicle, your own money. A feather in your cap too (and maybe future business) if you can tell the customer you saved them the money too.
(Sorry I guess I've spent too many years in the electronics business fixing equipment to component level ) :-) I can understand if your industry has a different outlook.
Good troubleshooting technique Paul. Thanks. I enjoy your videos.
davesage.ca/
I'm totally with you Dave but what you didn't see in an edit was I was not prepared to fix this one. My eyesight is not what it used to be and I definitely needed a magnifying glass to even attempt it. Then the only soldering gun I carry with me is a butane one that is not meant for such small soldering.
Thanks for watching! Next time maybe, I'll be able to do the component level fix. I wish I could have too
No Problem Paul. It wasn't meant to be a negative comment. More meant to let others know that there is a possible further step that can add great satisfaction if successful. Especially when it's your own piece of equipment and money your saving.
My home furnace quit a few years ago and through a similar process I traced the problem to a cracked solder joint on the controller circuit board. Seems they thought it was a good idea to solder a heavy transformer onto the circuit board in a furnace that is continuously vibrating. Soldered it up and away it went. The alternative was to try to find an obsolete replacement controller or a new furnace for a few thousand bucks. Made me feel good to fix the whole problem.
Thanks Paul. Keep up the good work.
I didn't take it as negative at all Dave. Thanks for the comment! I agreed with it
Nice diagnosis. I refer to that style of resistor module as a 'hedgehog' here in the UK. Bit like a porcupine over there.
Awesome video 100% accurate and articulate step by step instructions for anybody that's weakness is auto electrical fixed mine in minutes than you Dan!!
Thank you!
BTW my name is Paul Danner 😉
@@ScannerDanner all apologies.. thank you Mr. Danner
All good, I get that a lot
@@ScannerDanner soooo (exact same truck/symptoms as this video) and blower quit AGAIN... new module (per video) & fan spins instantly when bench tested w/ car battery. am i to assume the actual $300 hvac controller is the only thing left??
@@daleaustin1969 not sure if you are still fighting this or not, but I would look at the parts you replaced first. Electronic parts are junk these days
Just started watching the video but my question is the rear passenger ac control switch. Not the front ceiling control for the rear. There is a little screen that has the ac and radio control buttons that the rear passengers can use. But my rear fan won't turn on. It was working one day and cut out , but started working again and then by the time I got home it stopped working for good
Paul, I just had a 2011 silverado come in the shop for a blower inop customer complaint, I did the same checks, and I found the blower motor wire harness melted @ the blower motor, so it is getting a blower motor and wire harness, I also unplugged the blower motor wire harness @ the blower control module and plugged it back in and the blower came on, so I wiggled the wires @ the blower motor and could make the blower go on and off, so I unplugged the harness @ the blower motor and it was melted. Did you find the same issue on this vehicle?
Great video!!
Hey Dan I'm sure uv found out by now that the little thing in the headliner is not a mini speaker at all, but it is a little tiny squirrel-cage motor that draws ambient air into the cage which surrounds a little thermostat type sensor. Its part of the auto climate control system
I have, thank you! Oh and my name is Paul Danner, thanks!
The module was good all fuses was good again it was a resistor on this particular car easy fix.
Sorry Paul, I was confused, meant to say if it has power and ground, module/resister is probably bad, which is a very common issue on the GM fleet where fan speed is not working on all settings.
I know what happens, just figured it out with all of them, the blower motor shaft gets rusty and causes the bearing to rust and shaft then puts a lot of pressure on the motor and causes the resistor to burn out or just shut down the motor completely, I just fixed it by adding a little bit of 20 weight oil to the shop to turn the remove the blower and turn the blower upside down with a squirrel cage is facing down for a little bit of oil in there at a time and keep spinning it and spin until it comes free and all fixed, so there isn't a sealed bearing in there and the condensing from the air conditioner causes moisture and rust everything up.
Very good instructional video, Paul. Well done by you and Caleb.
How reliable and durable are these trucks with the DOD/AFM system and have you had any problems with the lifters ???
junk if you ask me and useless as $#@% in a mountainous region like where I live
Thanks for the video! Case studies are fun.
GM managed to invent a complicated module for a simple job :D
It could be just a single n-channel mosfet transistor, a beefy one, looking at power ground and pwm controll, but I didn't see PWM ground (must be very fast switching), at least the one that could be detected with verus scope.
I don't think the ground was being controlled using a PWM principle , I had my scope set on a 6 mega sample screen and I definitely would have seen the pulses. The climate control module to blower motor control module signal was a PWM signal, but that was it. I misspoke in the video saying the blower itself was being controlled that way. It certainly looked like some type of stepped circuit where resistance was being added and subtracted. Not exactly sure how they were doing it to be honest.
Beautifully edited and explained, what program do you guys use to edit and over lay the voltages on the screen? 🎥💨
Cyberlink Power Director 15. If I could do it over, I would be using adobe premier. I just don't want to learn another program right now and this one serves it's purpose.
Thanks for the information. A lot to absorb. Good news is I know which part I now need to replace. Blower motor module
I did this exact test with my verus pro and got the same results. I changed the module and it fixed the issue. 2 days later stopped again, so I figured defective part. Got another one and worked great for a day and stopped again with same results. Can’t figure out why the module keeps dying.
Too much current from the blower motor burning it out, or you have a connection issues right there at the module.
I had this problem with an 07 Silverado. When I unplugged the fan connection at the module and plugged back in it worked. Turned out to be the connection at the fan motor. It had heated the plug and deformed it. I replaced the wire to the motor and no more problem.
Great stuff Paul. I need reminders in electrical theory and these videos are doing just that.
great video SD I believe that the blower can also be load shedded on the smart charging system RVC thanks again
Great video the impala is ground side switch like that one
That's not the onstar speaker, that's the interior temperature sensor aspirator for the automatic control HVAC system. The noise is the little fan motor in it that's blocked with crud. It's a thermistor with a fan pulling interior air over it. One common symptom of it's failure is heat output stuck at 80+ degrees with no heat below that.
ah great tip! Thank you
If the fan is still working you can sometimes pop the grill off and hit them with some air and blow the fan clean enough that it will start working again. Easier than pulling the headliner down to get in there. Every GM truck with the automatic HVAC system has one.
Ahh yeah - got the same noisy fan in mine too. Was just going to tell Paul about this.
Of course, GM no longer makes the part if you need it! At least that's what I found last time I checked. Real nice of them to stop making parts on a vehicle that's barely 10 years old ...
ACDelco 22834330 should let you find one. That fits 2000-2014 GM trucks that use the aspirator. It's the current replacement with the latest revisions.
Thanks Blazer! I'll be writing that down on my maintenance folder. :)
Sure you know by now but that is not OnStar making noise that you pointed to, it is a fan that measures cabin temp for the HVAC
Haha yep, sure do. Thanks!
My wife's 02 T&C had a low fan then no fan so I pulled the resistor or module and with a VOM
I measured to see if there was an open or short. Back history, I had this happen on my T&C and so I know there are four pins that should have resistance reading on them. My wife's van had 2 pins with no resistance at all. So module or resistor is bad. But this was a deja vu so I knew where the Easter eggs were hidden. Now that I saw this I going to take that dew hickey apart and sea if I can see what you kneaded readers four4. Just kidding, gonna use a magnifying glass eye use readers two2. Great video professor and thanks.
great detailed video that help me determine what was actually whats wrong with my vehicle, thx
Excellent. Diagnostic. Master. My. Respect. For. Yuo. I have. Question a technician. For. Yuo
What's your question my friend?
Great video gave me a better understanding of what im looking at 👍🏽
Any idea why on a suburban manual rear ac blower, there is power to the blower, new resister, but when plugged in to the motor/load the power drops to zero?
Hi Paul. Just revisiting this PWM control. By the hvac control head pulling the signal to ground (higher duty % to ground = higher speed signal request / lower duty % to ground = lower speed signal request), does this mean the blower speed controller (near the blower) is the one who supplies the signal voltage to the hvac control head. Then it's the hvac control head job to pulse that voltage to ground and on the other end, the blower speed controller interpretation of that pulse width/duty % is the requested speed? Then the blower speed controller output pulses the blower ground circuit to ground to vary the blower speed? Thank you. Bless you and your family.
Hi Paul...Can we do bypass test by giving ground on the wire using test light???? Second thing, as we increase the fan speed, the ground value keeps decreasing, like u said better and better ground. Paul i want to know how is it possible to change ground value to better and more better??? is this possible by using resistors??? Plzzz advise. Thank you.
I need a time frame please. For the ground part you are talking about.
Also, you cannot use a test light to do a bypass test if it is a higher current circuit. The test light will not support the current flow
How do I know if it’s the switch located up roof or fan actuator in the rear???
Have any video's on testing a traditional divider resistor? I've got one where the blower motor was already replaced by someone else, the fan works intermittently ( will cut out after a few hours of operation ) and there is a 200 - 300 ma parasitic draw on the A/C circuit...
Thanks Paul and Caleb
First, great video!! Thanks Caleb! Next, I have a 2009 GMC yukon hybrid. I bought stickers to cover all the buttons where the black had flaked off and were green. (Like on this one) my auto button, my up and down on driver and passenger, and my passenger button. I put the stickers on and pushed hard to stick it all around. I'm a dummy and had my truck running so my ac kept popping on. I'd turn it off each time. The very same day, my blower stopped working. Then I opened and closed my door and it came back on. Then a couple weeks later, it did the samething. Then a month later, it stopped but now wont come back on. Did I kill something? Or could it be the module also? I need to figure it out asap cause I have no defrost and its gonna be very cold here very soon! I'm not working right now so I'm trying to find the least expensive way to get this done right, even if it's me doing it myself.
Thanks so much!!!!!
Nice one buddy , I almost wish you didn't unplug it - caused too many variables in my head. LOL Awesome camera work .
Why? It's a circuit board that gets stressed by a lot of heat. Nothing wrong with the connector and it would not have continued to work indefinitely. If I had time, better eyes and a magnifying glass, I bet I could have visually shown the failure on that board. Thanks Steve!
I have this same exact problem and switched out this module/ resistor and still same thing. Any suggestions ?
I have a 91gmc G2500. I replaced resister blower motor and dash module. Still no power to it. I previously took out all the ac..... did I somehow stop a circuit ground? My door locks are also clicking on and off, even without the motor on, is this connected. I feel I must have a bad ground somewhere. I’m an older female and this is making my brain bleed! Will appreciate any thoughts you have to share.
You need a good wiring diagram for your system. Door locks clicking on and off are also not good symptoms (bad ground or low voltage on a feed circuit)
eautorepair.adtrk.biz/?a=10817&c=24&p=r&s1=
Very informative. What size socket did you use to remove the module bolts? I tried using my 6 mm but too big. Thanks again!
Probably a 5.5 mmr then
When i baught my truck the module was gone... i baught cheap ebay one and didnt work. I borrowed one from identical truck, didnt work. Gonna try your tests.. my truck also happens to have same onstar noise aswell.... ever figure that out?
Yeah, I was wrong, that is not on star, that is an air intake for an in car temp sensor
Mine has no power down at module at all... i tryed swapping out control unit on dash and still nothing, all fuses look good... not sure what else to check.
The fins or poles are to detect the temperature as the air flows over them so it can be adjusted automatically when on auto not cooling fins.
You sure about that? There is no feedback circuit from the blower module to the climate control panel. This blower module does no decision making on it's own as far as temperature of the air or blower speed.
Top notch vid. Was wondering if you are going to autopsy the module at some time?
Mr. Paul, how were you able to draw a LIN signal ranging from zero to 4 volts at fan maximum speed? What I knew about LIN voltage that it only ranges from slightly above zero (0.5) volt up to slightly under battery voltage (11.5). Thanks for your time and effort. We really appreciate that.
This signal was not part of a network on this model
ScannerDanner wow. I dont know how the life could be without you.
Excellent knowledge... thanks. I'm having the same problem on my Denali.
Nose hair as an indicator .... nice. Great vid bro .
Thanks for another great vid Paul, and great camera work Caleb!
Always good for me to see these vehicles on your channels, since I own a '07 Silverado. One day this part is pretty much guaranteed to fail on all of them.
God knows my truck has had it's share of failures. Latest is monitors that won't run. Might be time for a t-stat replacement ... or something deeper. For now, running with the black "R" on the windshield (inspection stickers in MA: "R" = rejected: Black "R" = emissions, Red "R" = safety).
Frankly I'm tired of spending money just to keep this pile "emissions legal" when it runs just fine. Only 5 more years until it's exempt ... if the engine makes it that long! Bad valvetrain components on these AFM 5.3's ... :(
Thanks, Caleb! :)
Also, great video, Paul!
Thanx brother
Great video you just saved me a shit load of money
what type of scanner are you useing
I had a jaguar that had blower motor resister module I could not tested I only tested power and ground ok and than it had feed back and control, I energized the blower motor to check amps and brushes, was operating , how ever signal had 9 volts bias steady with no changes, and 0v on feed back, my issue was to know if the hvac control was the issue or the blower module because when commanding on blower motor speed I got not changes at all, so with test light even the led the voltage was dropped and no changes with command, so at this point we order one at the dealer $400.00 install it and now the blower works I get the scope and do my checks and the voltage was dropping but as analog style to 2.5 volt at high speed , and the feed back was going from low to high appositive than signal. hard to test this modules some time because according to flow chart the test was to check the signal and command blower motor from low to hig and verify voltage signal dropping if not replace hvac controller.but the blower motor module wasa the fix. thanks for showing excellent testing methods
Module to module communication lines can be difficult to troubleshoot. Nice job on that one Joel!
Good job sir, pls what materials do I need to be a good scanner like you sir
www.scannerdanner.com/join-scannerdanner-premium.html
This will be the best spent $11 a month you will ever find in this field. I offer a 14 day free trial. Check it out!
My ac does not work at any speed but I can faintly hear the blower motor trying to turn on under passenger dash would my blower be bad or the resistor if so how would I be able to tell symptoms from the blower from the resistor also could the hvac over drivers head it has a small grill affect why no access rear or front works.
voltage testing at the blower and resistor are needed to answer that
Wow. Tapped it real hard and it came back on.
Well for starters, that’s not the onstar speaker, that’s part of the climate control system, it uses a fan and a temp sensor to sample drivers seat temps to inform the auto hvac module
Ok. I totally understand this circuit now, but what I expected to see on the blower ground wire is actual square waves being pulled from battery voltage to ground with varying pulse widths. This system acts more like a resistor in that it drops a certain amount of voltage depending on the speed commanded. I am curious about the way this blower module accomplishes this?
You would be correct. The motor itself is not PWMed, only the signal input to the blower module is. Sorry for mis-speaking there.
No biggie bud. Thanks for clearing that up.
I'm not sure exactly how the blower module is doing this but it certainly looked like it was simply switching to different resistors internal to the board.
Hey paul , nice to see you working over top of your $2 scantool to remove module :) Nice vid as usual , very informative, keep um commin
I have no power on my climate control panel. It was working at 1st an it was blowing just wasn’t getting cold cause my compressor was not coming on so I by pass my a/c compressor relay wit a paper clip then my compressor came on but then whn I got in my 2007 Denali my climate control panel would not come on nor was it blowing any air. I checked all fuses an nothing was blown. I need help wat is wrong??? Can u help me please?
When you jumped the relay, did you jump the wrong pins at first?
@17.59... Paul are you sure it's not the wires to blower motor? They look damaged.
Yes
When changing the module do the car have to be running
No, and the key should be off, with the circuit off, for the safest way to change any module
Glad I've just so happen to come across this video very informative and instructional what kind of scanner are u using just in case u already stated it and I missed it
Thank you so much for the great vid! You diagnosed my problem.
Great job. Excellent briefing on inputs and outputs. See you later my friend.
Brushes in the fan motor?
Ok
I might have a good one for you.
2008 Chevrolet LTZ Suburban that has had the engine light on, no oil pressure at cluster but no have no codes showing up.
the oil psi sensor will flag a code and set the MIL and is a common failure item. Upper intake has to come off to change the sensor
@@ScannerDanner No it doesn't. A little tight but can replace in 15 minutes.
Question? I i had to pick one source of information which will be your advice if i love to troubleshoot engine performance, electrical system, etc.[ Identifix, alldata or michelle ondeman?]
My preference is Mitchell On-Demand (same as Shop Key) simply for the wiring diagrams. They are all redrawn using the same format. No matter what you are working on, you will not have to study the legends and keys and color codes and segments, just to be able to read them.
Factory techs hate Mitchell diagrams because of this. Alldata does NOT redraw them and will produce the actual factory diagrams as they are. Meaning every car is different. That's fine for a guy who works on one car line. But I work on 40 different manufactures cars and I want uniformity. So Mitchell/Shop Key it is.
I have a Chevy Impala 2013 that I replaced the resistor and wiring harness to the resistor and after that it caught fire is there another underlying issue what do I do
Resistance equals heat, you missed something or caused a poor contact with something you wired
@@ScannerDanner the wiring harness deck goes into the relay under the dash was already burnt and I went to AutoZone and got it new plug I wired it up correctly but it must have another problem somewhere further down the wires