I just ran the video at 1/4 speed to better see the lighting patterns of the leds. I got more than I asked for!! Hearing Clive at 1/4 speed (with pitch being unchanged) is absolutely a treat. Yes, I am easily amused, but OMG, he sounds positively tossed! I love you, Clive- just as you are, and your voice is amazing at any speed!
Just had to see what you meant! He gives me ozzy vibes at 0.5. "Sharon!... PURPLE BURGLER ALARM!!!!" I don't want to go back to normal speed, but he sounds TOTALLY SMASHED! Time to go back and rewatch all the videos on this speed!
Possible product optimizations: 1. On the input board, use a high wattage 2.2ohm resistor instead of the mechanical diode and the 4 10ohm resistors. 2. Solder a battery connector on the input board, removing a manual wire soldering step. 3. Change the blue plastic bit to a ring with an upward ridge to hold the main board. This saves the aluminium piece and makes assembly faster (because of the larger hole). It also saves two screws and allows the various mains supplies more room. 4. Use a 7-output driver chip (ULN2003 style) to drive the low side of the matrix instead of the 3 discrete mosfets and 3 PNP or p-channel drivers instead of the current 6 to drive the high side. Same 6x3 matrix layout with opposite LED polarity. Assumes you can find a cheap driver package variant that doesn't waste too much energy at low voltage. Idea is to lower component count and total BOM cost.
Removing the capacitor causes the lamp to always operate in flame mode! Yes! Seems like the mcu can live without the smoothing, and I can finally get rid of the stupid extra modes. Thank you Clive!
Hi Clive, The PCB material used in the flame lamp is probably Kapton. If you do a search on ebay for Kapton PCB, you will find it comes in many different sized rolls. I've made a few flexible products with it.
I like these candles with the pendulum flame which is pushed only once in 2 to 4 seconds illuminated by a LED from below. This design gives a very realistic flame imagination.
I was thinking because the chip is square, putitng a few cockeyed will make the diffused squares more diamond and make it all look less pixely and more flame like. weather or not its sloppy work or intentional i dont know, but it may have made the sourcers (ebayer or whomever) pick this model over other flame models because of it.
I have a feeling the pick and place wasn't working right and people had to place the rest. I have never seen a pick and place machine misplace components that bad before. These flame effect lights aren't incredibly cheap yet, so they can probably get away with it.
Thanks for all these dissection videos Clive on cheap chinesium gadgets that interest me as a tech but because i simply don't have the time, would love to see what's inside and keep up to date with the "how'd they do that'' ....
Clive, we do a lot of camping and I've been looking for a substitute for the oil-fueled "tiki torches". After watching your tear-down, I bought a few of these via eBay and we're delighted. I found one thing which makes these even more realistic; putting them inside a frosted glass oil-lamp globe. You'd swear it's actually on fire. These make a lot of light, so I think they're winners for illuminating camp. I'll have to work out a pole-mount for them, but that should be easy. Thanks so much!
I own the 120v mains version. Got mine for $10 on eBay and it's pretty awesome. If I can get a battery operated one, it'd be perfect for a mobile fire effect for Halloween.
Unrelated to this video, but in one of your previous videos you mentioned the difference between alkaline and zinc batteries.... That advice has came in handy for me and the Mrs with buying batteries this Christmas so thank you.
Since your very first review I'm an addict too. Something about fire in a bottle. I have combined 3 of the original 4.5v(?) led panels using just one base to give an inferno. They do quite nicely on a poundshop powerbank but I haven't tried a bareback 18650. My newer versions are 12v and don't easily combine or like boost converters so are a bit of a dead loss. One uses a proper accelerometer chip to do the flip which is a bit novel. Amazingly I've only fried one of the oldest, but reclaimed all the transistors and LEDs so not a complete loss.
@@bigclivedotcom M&S do a MInce Pie Liquor, it's about 6 quid in a gold bottle. The ingrediants are 'odd'.. it lists 'alcohol' as an ingredient, rather than whiskey or brandy etc,, check it out.
Paul Drake why should they have to pick? Both at the same time and if we get a little drink also it could get really FUN. Still you onto something I think.
@@mikenco The "alcohol" will be something like mass-produced corn alcohol. They ferment it in giant vats and use it for all the various "liquors", alcopops, novelty weird flavoured stuff. Itself, it's fairly flavourless but will get you pissed. It's a bit crap, really, all this booze that tastes like fizzy pop. When I were a lad we had Cabbage and Dogshit Flavour MD:20/20. You could get one in every colour of the evil rainbow, off-orange, bilious green, somewhat suspicious cyan, etc. And they were all fucking awful. You had to EARN getting pissed back then. We didn't even have 3 litre white cider tramp fuel. Anyway... mince pies are horrible. And that suspiciously cheap liquor is probably just E666 Mince Pie Flavouring mixed with the corn booze. .
you'r going for the 500K subs? good on ya! you deserve it. I've been watching this channel for over 2 years and its still at the top of my list. keep up the good work.
Don't know if you did a teardown of the solar tiki torch version of this, Clive, but if memory serves it had the same LED panel and battery, but a small solar cell that doubled as a light sensor. You stuck the thing into the ground outside to charge up, and it would light up after sunset. We needed a "flame effect" rig in one of our projects, and this didn't quite fit, so I hacked one together out of WS2812B addressable RGB LED (AKA Neopixel) strips. I later made an updated version that played a crackling campfire audio recording and reacted to the audio by "sparking". That was a fun project.
Thanks a million for the videos, going through some tough times with near deaths in my family right now, and watching one of your video's is better then a Valium in calming my tense nerves. Being in charge of end of life choices on your mom is a tough thing indeed, and with a sis suffering from brain cancer and not in her right mind makes it 10 times more difficult. Thankfully I can go to Big Clive and have his wonderful voice lull me back to some sort of sanity before the war continues.
Been there. My dad died from a brain tumour and chose when he went. Me and my brother nursed my mother for a very long time until she eventually passed. Fortunately these times will pass and you'll get your own life back again.
A really nice product. Janky and ingenious at the same time. Using a diode as a spacer. Makes me wonder why they didn't just make one of the standoffs in the socket a little bit longer. Or maybe the casing is used for other versions of the lamp with different circuitry that needs the space. The heatsink as round shape, glue surface and screw mount. That is something they surely could do cheaper.
A thumbs up for good crap as it was fertilizer for the mind, mistakes, and all. An intriguing module of LED flame effect array. I've come across this added diode, or resistor or another component being used as a packer to level off the PCB inside a unit. In this case, it looks like the diode is bumping up that side to the height of the USB socket, Plus, these non-connected components are also used to wedge the circuit board into its housing.
And I’m back here again, a few years later. I bought one of these, must’ve been 3 years ago, after seeing this video & mine too was faulty, it worked but wouldn’t charge. It was a badly soldered charge chip. I reflowed it & away she went, working nicely. Now it’s decided to stop charging again, so I’ve re-flowed the connections on the chip & USB socket & it appears to be working again. The switch doesn’t like the ash in the fire grate, so I have to blow it out occasionally, but apart from that (& the questionable soldering) it’s been fine (“grate” you might say 🤦♂️). Very “grate”ful for this video so I could get it apart again.
Damn, now I want one. Ordered it on eBay - the only 2 offers I saw were either in GBP or AUD, so they were not targeted towards the EU. We'll see whether it arrives before Christmas (probably not).
"Ohh! Screws!" --Big Clive, Nov 2018 I don't think your videos are ever crap.... although it seems a few of your food ones appeared to TASTE like crap.
I know sweet fuck all about electronics but something about Clive's videos are really interesting, even if I don't understand half of what he's on about lmao.
Wow Clive, you must've been really tired. I know I talk bollcoks sometimes when I'm ready for peeps. Those flame lamps are pretty neat and the work gone into mass producing them gets better. No ad - origin adblocker works a treat :)
Tiredness isn't a prerequisite for talking bollocks. I've perfected the art of doing it at all times, even when bright eyed, bushy tailed, and fresh as a daisy.
More than a year late, I know, but I just watched Adam Savage build one of these into a reproduction old railroad lantern and was driving myself nuts wondering how it worked. I had thought up three different ways it might have been done- thanks for validating my number three guess even though I thought it would have been too expensive even to mass produce.
I need one of those for a fire-staff for LARP. Still need to find a way to get the fire effect as default. Guess I have a gift for a good friend. Love it when you can repurpose stuff!
If the unit is powered down long enough it will revert to the flame effect when turned on. You could accelerate the reset with a resistor across the MPU's capacitor.
For EL panels, Applied Science has a video about EL paints and some various applications. You could even make a video wall for it, _however_ the caveat is the paint requires you to paint on your own board, basically, and the Lumilor starter kit is _hella_ expensive.
I believe the 100 ohm gate resistor is to limit the current which due to the gates capacitance can be large directly connected. The trade of is turn on time but that's clearly not important in this application.
Can you do a quick comparison video between the 2 bulbs Feit and this one? I picked up the Feit from the other day and like it, definitely a decoration LED.
Doing switch detection using brownout seems kind of clunky but also elegant in a cost engineering way. Guessing the cheap micro probably doesn't have EEPROM to store state detected via an I/O pin but does have a preserved reset cause register.
I am addicted to your video's but I am amazed how much techy people have in common (excluding the chocolate dildo's that is) with a revelation nearly every vlog like you own a 3D printer in the last one to being into cosplay in this one, you will be 3D printing but plugs next for your BDSM club.
Given the general quality of these things, I'd be surprised if it's actually a conscious design decision to have it cut out before overdischarging the battery. I'd expect it to be more likely that it's simply the microcontroller's brownout detection circuit resetting it.
Don't feel bad about reminding folks that made it all the way to the end to subscribe. They obviously like the kind of thing you're doing over here if they did make it to the end and aren't subscribed they probably thought they were or intended to anyway. As for those that are already subscribed, its nothing too big or off-putting. If you started begging for subs at the beginning, then you're asking for trouble.
Hi Clive, I was at the hospital earlier with my daughter (nothing too serious) and I saw that the ‘medical inspection light’ thingy above the bed used some big led cob’s in a very large housing, I’m guessing it’s to house the power supply and room for cooling/heatsink??... have you looked at any of these lights before, and/or any other medical stuff?
They might have considered adding that 'build up' sequence at power up as a battery level indicator. .. A row of a few of the 'walls' along the bottom of a window might cause some concern across the way (as long as it's not in Clive's window ;-) )
These numberless chips, are they ambidextrous or are they programmed on the board after they’ve been soldered? I mean, how do they know they’ve put them on the right way around with no markings to reference which way is up?
i think why numberless is either they are proprietary or they are stolen/counterfeits and they want to not allow the world to know they are counterfeits.
@Dave Micolichek There are the odd few with the chamfered edge too but not many. I think for some reason it's not much used any more. Same as the centre top u shaped dimple. Not seen one of those for about 3 decades.
Now. So. Since you got three of 'em... could you maybe build them into a nice christmas fireplace ?? some wooden sticks a around, and maybe a non lithium-cell-explosion based smoke generator ?
I've been meaning to stick some of these in some decorative lanterns for proper D&D mood-lighting. I'm glad they've got battery-powered models now, so I won't have to buy the plug-in version and DIY the battery pack.
I used to put tiki torches along the front of my camp but I became wary of drunken Dagorhirm crashing into them. Also I couldn't in good conscience leave them unattended although I observed others who did. These lights ought to do the trick.
The LIFU flame lamp has a linear power supply (yes, a transformer) and runs it at about 5v, i made a vid of it as another youtuber would find it useful as a portable lamp (he runs his on 6v from alkaline) I wonder what the point of the heatsink is on your lamp, the LIFU has an aluminium tube full length.
Hi Clive, I recently brought a new phone and I have noticed when the screen is off it is charging at 9v and when the screen is on it charges at 5v both at around 1.5-2A I thought this was bit strange as I thought the USB standard is 5v. I took a video of this if you want me to send it you for your take on what is going on. Thanks so much for all your entertaining videos. Jack
Modern fast charges negotiate with the phone and can put out a higher voltage to allow much higher power to be transferred over a standard USB cable at the same current. It then gets converted back down in the phone to lower voltage at higher current.
Better than the 400 lavender scented dog poo bags I got sent to me. Although they're not super useful with cats, i still make use of them for sandwich bags. Just kidding on that.
Check your credit card for big unauthorized purchases. Fraudsters will make a small on-line purchase to your home address to "test" that the card still works, then do a larger purchase in-person immediately afterwards. Has happened to me and friends of mine.
How's the quality of the light diffusion across the market on these? I bought (what turned out to be) a smaller one and it's still quite pointlike; the one in this video looked very smooth indeed(is it a camera thing?). Any suggested fixes?
cool vid. Ive got a cheapo mains flame lamp and its seem pretty bad. You can see the individual LED's and the shocking thing is that it makes crackling noises that fade away after about 10 mins.. At least from this vid I now know why my bulb rattles.. Its the tild switch.. Well hopefully it is. lol
I think liquid metal switches can be made with Ga/In alloys rather than mercury now. Probably just a matter of cost, i mean these rattly ball things are essentially free, liquid alloys cost actual considerable money.
always assume anything you can think of, someone has already thought of it, made it into a product, and made a youtube video about it: ruclips.net/video/hurvEklwF0w/видео.html
I would still subscribe, even if you spoke complete crap Clive ‼️ I love the way you ask me questions, as if I would know what does what but I still like you asking me !!! Love ALL your videos. GBU...
Clive. I've always liked a nice flame light. Very cozy....but, I have an off topic question. Weren't do all volt meters show an OL (overload?) on the display as soon as the leads touch power before they give the actual voltage reading? It keeps me up at night.
The OL isn't really an overload sign. It's more of an over-range indication. I guess it's just something that fitted well in the seven segment displays.
@@bigclivedotcom Hmmmm. But, why do it do dat? All of mine do it. Why not just display a 0.0 and ramp up from there? ..... more mysterious questions from the world of the angry pixies..... Thanks for the videos, Clive. I'm addicted to your hypnotic voice.
Andy BoBandy It only happens on auto-ranging meters. They have switched themselves to the 200mV range looking for voltage on the disconnected leads, then ramp back up to the true range after connecting to your source.
The fact is, all your videos are great! Some better than others, but easy fun and interesting to watch. The video with "Fannie" in particular, was a bit of comic genius! You had me going for a few thinking some idiot manufacturer had actually designed this lethal toy! Very amusing!
Looks like there's space for 3 of these cells inside of the lamp. That could triple the time it can stay on before needing a recharge. Could be a useful mod.
Hey Big Clive, did you have a video about that cigarette lighter that uses a high voltage and creates a spark by ionizing air? I saw one at the store for 20$.
I've got a similar bulb but it's a screw in one. It also doesn't have a button switch but cycles through the settings by turning it on and off. Would it be possible to fix it to one setting some how ?
I’ve watched loads of your videos Clive & it’s the first time I remember hearing you ask people to subscribe - thanks for that, I think by now most people know how RUclips works!! (I am subscribed BTW!).
I have a rather tiny Voltcraft Multimeter lying around , with a not working Display. I want to send it to you if you want. The Batteries are new but there is something wrong.
The ad at the beginning was of the 5sec variety, below my fuck off threshold. I wonder if you could cut the last column out and wrap it tightly around the cell?
I just ran the video at 1/4 speed to better see the lighting patterns of the leds. I got more than I asked for!! Hearing Clive at 1/4 speed (with pitch being unchanged) is absolutely a treat. Yes, I am easily amused, but OMG, he sounds positively tossed! I love you, Clive- just as you are, and your voice is amazing at any speed!
lol
I had to to try it out!!!
Hilarious!!!
Just had to see what you meant!
He gives me ozzy vibes at 0.5. "Sharon!... PURPLE BURGLER ALARM!!!!"
I don't want to go back to normal speed, but he sounds TOTALLY SMASHED!
Time to go back and rewatch all the videos on this speed!
Possible product optimizations:
1. On the input board, use a high wattage 2.2ohm resistor instead of the mechanical diode and the 4 10ohm resistors.
2. Solder a battery connector on the input board, removing a manual wire soldering step.
3. Change the blue plastic bit to a ring with an upward ridge to hold the main board. This saves the aluminium piece and makes assembly faster (because of the larger hole). It also saves two screws and allows the various mains supplies more room.
4. Use a 7-output driver chip (ULN2003 style) to drive the low side of the matrix instead of the 3 discrete mosfets and 3 PNP or p-channel drivers instead of the current 6 to drive the high side. Same 6x3 matrix layout with opposite LED polarity. Assumes you can find a cheap driver package variant that doesn't waste too much energy at low voltage. Idea is to lower component count and total BOM cost.
Removing the capacitor causes the lamp to always operate in flame mode! Yes! Seems like the mcu can live without the smoothing, and I can finally get rid of the stupid extra modes. Thank you Clive!
How do you identify the capacitor?
Those have a surprisingly nice effect. Thanks Clive.
Two thumbs up, one for Clive one for flicker flame lighting.
And a good job for everyone all around... bits makers
and take her to's.
Hi Clive, The PCB material used in the flame lamp is probably Kapton. If you do a search on ebay for Kapton PCB, you will find it comes in many different sized rolls. I've made a few flexible products with it.
I like these candles with the pendulum flame which is pushed only once in 2 to 4 seconds illuminated by a LED from below. This design gives a very realistic flame imagination.
I've down a few dancing candle teardowns.
Wow, some of those LEDs are put on quite cockeyed.
Adds to the random flicker effect ;)
I was thinking because the chip is square, putitng a few cockeyed will make the diffused squares more diamond and make it all look less pixely and more flame like. weather or not its sloppy work or intentional i dont know, but it may have made the sourcers (ebayer or whomever) pick this model over other flame models because of it.
I have a feeling the pick and place wasn't working right and people had to place the rest. I have never seen a pick and place machine misplace components that bad before. These flame effect lights aren't incredibly cheap yet, so they can probably get away with it.
Thanks for all these dissection videos Clive on cheap chinesium gadgets that interest me as a tech but because i simply don't have the time, would love to see what's inside and keep up to date with the "how'd they do that'' ....
Clive, we do a lot of camping and I've been looking for a substitute for the oil-fueled "tiki torches". After watching your tear-down, I bought a few of these via eBay and we're delighted. I found one thing which makes these even more realistic; putting them inside a frosted glass oil-lamp globe. You'd swear it's actually on fire. These make a lot of light, so I think they're winners for illuminating camp. I'll have to work out a pole-mount for them, but that should be easy. Thanks so much!
The LED ones are a lot cleaner too. And no oil smell when stored.
I own the 120v mains version. Got mine for $10 on eBay and it's pretty awesome. If I can get a battery operated one, it'd be perfect for a mobile fire effect for Halloween.
Would make an interesting motor cycle brake light - flaming rear tyre effect!
Unrelated to this video, but in one of your previous videos you mentioned the difference between alkaline and zinc batteries.... That advice has came in handy for me and the Mrs with buying batteries this Christmas so thank you.
Since your very first review I'm an addict too. Something about fire in a bottle. I have combined 3 of the original 4.5v(?) led panels using just one base to give an inferno. They do quite nicely on a poundshop powerbank but I haven't tried a bareback 18650.
My newer versions are 12v and don't easily combine or like boost converters so are a bit of a dead loss. One uses a proper accelerometer chip to do the flip which is a bit novel.
Amazingly I've only fried one of the oldest, but reclaimed all the transistors and LEDs so not a complete loss.
Pretty neat little setup. Thanks Clive.
Clive, it would be cool if you and the Manx Beard Club could review some holiday decorations or snacks.
We've just recorded a video about Canadian candy which will be released soon. Not considered the festive treats, but it's a good idea.
@@bigclivedotcom M&S do a MInce Pie Liquor, it's about 6 quid in a gold bottle. The ingrediants are 'odd'.. it lists 'alcohol' as an ingredient, rather than whiskey or brandy etc,, check it out.
Paul Drake why should they have to pick? Both at the same time and if we get a little drink also it could get really FUN.
Still you onto something I think.
@@bigclivedotcom How about some Christmas candy and some liquid refreshments. Maybe something red and something green.
@@mikenco The "alcohol" will be something like mass-produced corn alcohol. They ferment it in giant vats and use it for all the various "liquors", alcopops, novelty weird flavoured stuff. Itself, it's fairly flavourless but will get you pissed.
It's a bit crap, really, all this booze that tastes like fizzy pop. When I were a lad we had Cabbage and Dogshit Flavour MD:20/20. You could get one in every colour of the evil rainbow, off-orange, bilious green, somewhat suspicious cyan, etc. And they were all fucking awful. You had to EARN getting pissed back then. We didn't even have 3 litre white cider tramp fuel.
Anyway... mince pies are horrible. And that suspiciously cheap liquor is probably just E666 Mince Pie Flavouring mixed with the corn booze.
.
you'r going for the 500K subs? good on ya! you deserve it. I've been watching this channel for over 2 years and its still at the top of my list. keep up the good work.
Don't know if you did a teardown of the solar tiki torch version of this, Clive, but if memory serves it had the same LED panel and battery, but a small solar cell that doubled as a light sensor. You stuck the thing into the ground outside to charge up, and it would light up after sunset.
We needed a "flame effect" rig in one of our projects, and this didn't quite fit, so I hacked one together out of WS2812B addressable RGB LED (AKA Neopixel) strips.
I later made an updated version that played a crackling campfire audio recording and reacted to the audio by "sparking". That was a fun project.
I always thumbs up your vids as I really look forward to them and share with my fellow electricians at work. Thanks for sharing.
Ever since I bought a few different models of these flame lamp bulbs I've wondered what a large flat panel of these would look like. :)
Thanks a million for the videos, going through some tough times with near deaths in my family right now, and watching one of your video's is better then a Valium in calming my tense nerves. Being in charge of end of life choices on your mom is a tough thing indeed, and with a sis suffering from brain cancer and not in her right mind makes it 10 times more difficult. Thankfully I can go to Big Clive and have his wonderful voice lull me back to some sort of sanity before the war continues.
Been there. My dad died from a brain tumour and chose when he went. Me and my brother nursed my mother for a very long time until she eventually passed. Fortunately these times will pass and you'll get your own life back again.
I had a big Volvo 740 estate many years ago which had a mercury tilt switch to control the under hood light.
That circuit board film stuff looks like something from 70's-80's toys.
I tore apart many toy record players and crappy synthesizers made like that.
A really nice product. Janky and ingenious at the same time.
Using a diode as a spacer. Makes me wonder why they didn't just make one of the standoffs in the socket a little bit longer. Or maybe the casing is used for other versions of the lamp with different circuitry that needs the space.
The heatsink as round shape, glue surface and screw mount. That is something they surely could do cheaper.
My money is on the shell being from another product, and there being a diode used as a spacer there.
A thumbs up for good crap as it was fertilizer for the mind, mistakes, and all. An intriguing module of LED flame effect array. I've come across this added diode, or resistor or another component being used as a packer to level off the PCB inside a unit. In this case, it looks like the diode is bumping up that side to the height of the USB socket, Plus, these non-connected components are also used to wedge the circuit board into its housing.
And I’m back here again, a few years later.
I bought one of these, must’ve been 3 years ago, after seeing this video & mine too was faulty, it worked but wouldn’t charge.
It was a badly soldered charge chip. I reflowed it & away she went, working nicely.
Now it’s decided to stop charging again, so I’ve re-flowed the connections on the chip & USB socket & it appears to be working again.
The switch doesn’t like the ash in the fire grate, so I have to blow it out occasionally, but apart from that (& the questionable soldering) it’s been fine (“grate” you might say 🤦♂️).
Very “grate”ful for this video so I could get it apart again.
Always thumbs up for a Big Clive video.
I always give you a big thumbs up Clive. your videos are always very interesting, and informative. high-5 for a job well done:)
Damn, now I want one. Ordered it on eBay - the only 2 offers I saw were either in GBP or AUD, so they were not targeted towards the EU. We'll see whether it arrives before Christmas (probably not).
Mercury switches were great in boiler pressure switches, rarely failed, unlike the contact ones that replaced them
"Ohh! Screws!" --Big Clive, Nov 2018
I don't think your videos are ever crap.... although it seems a few of your food ones appeared to TASTE like crap.
I liked the video for this one a lot, but I like the other led flicker flame light better, the one that had orange/yellow/white LEDs in it.
Would be more realistic I guess, higher color rendering index, since flames are full spectrum light and not a single amber color.
I know sweet fuck all about electronics but something about Clive's videos are really interesting, even if I don't understand half of what he's on about lmao.
Wow Clive, you must've been really tired. I know I talk bollcoks sometimes when I'm ready for peeps. Those flame lamps are pretty neat and the work gone into mass producing them gets better. No ad - origin adblocker works a treat :)
Tiredness isn't a prerequisite for talking bollocks. I've perfected the art of doing it at all times, even when bright eyed, bushy tailed, and fresh as a daisy.
Great reverse engineering Clive, nice inventive concept, rear of the PCB has a nice pattern.
Excellent tear down and explanation.
Hey, mistakes are GOOD! For one thing, you learn more from mistakes than from success, and secondly, they help you stay humble.
More than a year late, I know, but I just watched Adam Savage build one of these into a reproduction old railroad lantern and was driving myself nuts wondering how it worked. I had thought up three different ways it might have been done- thanks for validating my number three guess even though I thought it would have been too expensive even to mass produce.
That's a neat way to make flexible circuit boards.
I need one of those for a fire-staff for LARP. Still need to find a way to get the fire effect as default. Guess I have a gift for a good friend. Love it when you can repurpose stuff!
If the unit is powered down long enough it will revert to the flame effect when turned on. You could accelerate the reset with a resistor across the MPU's capacitor.
bigclivedotcom Thanks! Good that the flame effect is more or less the default one. Guess 100k should do the trick?
@@DrakkarCalethiel 10K should be fine.
bigclivedotcom Thaks again. Ordered two today to use in props.
clive, could you do a video on electroluminescent wire/panels?
Chasing electroluminescent wire. (A look inside the controller)
ruclips.net/video/W507C1qfXGM/видео.html
@@webchimp thanks for the link.
For EL panels, Applied Science has a video about EL paints and some various applications. You could even make a video wall for it, _however_ the caveat is the paint requires you to paint on your own board, basically, and the Lumilor starter kit is _hella_ expensive.
I believe the 100 ohm gate resistor is to limit the current which due to the gates capacitance can be large directly connected. The trade of is turn on time but that's clearly not important in this application.
Can you do a quick comparison video between the 2 bulbs Feit and this one? I picked up the Feit from the other day and like it, definitely a decoration LED.
Doing switch detection using brownout seems kind of clunky but also elegant in a cost engineering way. Guessing the cheap micro probably doesn't have EEPROM to store state detected via an I/O pin but does have a preserved reset cause register.
Like I'd ever thumb down a Big Clive video.
I am addicted to your video's but I am amazed how much techy people have in common (excluding the chocolate dildo's that is) with a revelation nearly every vlog like you own a 3D printer in the last one to being into cosplay in this one, you will be 3D printing but plugs next for your BDSM club.
Given the general quality of these things, I'd be surprised if it's actually a conscious design decision to have it cut out before overdischarging the battery. I'd expect it to be more likely that it's simply the microcontroller's brownout detection circuit resetting it.
Don't feel bad about reminding folks that made it all the way to the end to subscribe. They obviously like the kind of thing you're doing over here if they did make it to the end and aren't subscribed they probably thought they were or intended to anyway. As for those that are already subscribed, its nothing too big or off-putting.
If you started begging for subs at the beginning, then you're asking for trouble.
OH! Screws! LOL. Makes things easier than "Hot Snot" TM (Ave) :-D
Thanks Big Clive. This looks pretty kewl.
I need to do a search for these magnifier lights you have. They seem so handy.
Hi Clive, I was at the hospital earlier with my daughter (nothing too serious) and I saw that the ‘medical inspection light’ thingy above the bed used some big led cob’s in a very large housing, I’m guessing it’s to house the power supply and room for cooling/heatsink??... have you looked at any of these lights before, and/or any other medical stuff?
Medical products tend to be really expensive because of all the testing and power supply isolation/noise requirements.
@bigclivedotcom I liked it so much I bought one too. Same switch issue too! All the way to texas
They might have considered adding that 'build up' sequence at power up as a battery level indicator. .. A row of a few of the 'walls' along the bottom of a window might cause some concern across the way (as long as it's not in Clive's window ;-) )
Jay Herde A single one in ramp mode behind a curtain would be more dramatic, like a giant flame filling the room.
13 second advert. No worries, they don't bother me. Gives me time to make sure I have a drink. ;)
Thanks Clive.
These numberless chips, are they ambidextrous or are they programmed on the board after they’ve been soldered?
I mean, how do they know they’ve put them on the right way around with no markings to reference which way is up?
They're in a specific direction on the reel, so the pick&place always mounts them correctly. Those aren't soldered by hand.
i think why numberless is either they are proprietary or they are stolen/counterfeits and they want to not allow the world to know they are counterfeits.
@Dave Micolichek There are the odd few with the chamfered edge too but not many. I think for some reason it's not much used any more. Same as the centre top u shaped dimple. Not seen one of those for about 3 decades.
@Dave Micolichek 0
wouldnt it be better for them to do a walmart "oh we need you to scrub the bathroom" as soon as they punch out?
Turned out nice again
Looked like there was a slot to slip the PCB through on the second part of the housing...
Loving all these videos. The mistakes just make it all the more enjoyable. It shows you are human :)
Awesome video 👍🏻 is it possible to power these without the battery. The one in mine is no good. Only last a couple of minutes and they just flicker
Now. So. Since you got three of 'em... could you maybe build them into a nice christmas fireplace ?? some wooden sticks a around,
and maybe a non lithium-cell-explosion based smoke generator ?
LARP safe(er) flaming staff here I come!
Gregg Bond Dang, same here! :D Definietly need to make a fire staff.
I've been meaning to stick some of these in some decorative lanterns for proper D&D mood-lighting. I'm glad they've got battery-powered models now, so I won't have to buy the plug-in version and DIY the battery pack.
I used to put tiki torches along the front of my camp but I became wary of drunken Dagorhirm crashing into them. Also I couldn't in good conscience leave them unattended although I observed others who did. These lights ought to do the trick.
I definitly am going to make a gem light based off his last video.
another staff to add to the pile.. going to work on one of those lightning staffs ( plasma ball)
The LIFU flame lamp has a linear power supply (yes, a transformer) and runs it at about 5v, i made a vid of it as another youtuber would find it useful as a portable lamp (he runs his on 6v from alkaline)
I wonder what the point of the heatsink is on your lamp, the LIFU has an aluminium tube full length.
that thing is really cool
Hi Clive, I recently brought a new phone and I have noticed when the screen is off it is charging at 9v and when the screen is on it charges at 5v both at around 1.5-2A I thought this was bit strange as I thought the USB standard is 5v. I took a video of this if you want me to send it you for your take on what is going on. Thanks so much for all your entertaining videos. Jack
Modern fast charges negotiate with the phone and can put out a higher voltage to allow much higher power to be transferred over a standard USB cable at the same current. It then gets converted back down in the phone to lower voltage at higher current.
@@bigclivedotcom Thank you so much Clive, learned something new today.
For that circuit board media pick and place is more like hunt and peck!
I just received two of those without the batteries from Amazon today. I did not order them.
But at least I'll know how they work after this video.
Better than the 400 lavender scented dog poo bags I got sent to me. Although they're not super useful with cats, i still make use of them for sandwich bags. Just kidding on that.
Check your credit card for big unauthorized purchases. Fraudsters will make a small on-line purchase to your home address to "test" that the card still works, then do a larger purchase in-person immediately afterwards. Has happened to me and friends of mine.
That would make interesting lighting inside foam board rc planes, i might have a search for one :)
How's the quality of the light diffusion across the market on these? I bought (what turned out to be) a smaller one and it's still quite pointlike; the one in this video looked very smooth indeed(is it a camera thing?). Any suggested fixes?
Most of these lamps benefit from either a bit of diffusion in the fitting they are in, or viewing from a distance.
Clive always gets a thumbs up from me!
I've got that screwdriver and when I watch bigclive videos I hold it. True story, sad I know.
And I am sitting here screaming at 5:30 that there is a SLOT in the blue plastic for the pcb!
LOL.
I would be trying to string a bunch of those LED sheets together.
cool vid. Ive got a cheapo mains flame lamp and its seem pretty bad. You can see the individual LED's and the shocking thing is that it makes crackling noises that fade away after about 10 mins.. At least from this vid I now know why my bulb rattles.. Its the tild switch.. Well hopefully it is. lol
I think liquid metal switches can be made with Ga/In alloys rather than mercury now. Probably just a matter of cost, i mean these rattly ball things are essentially free, liquid alloys cost actual considerable money.
I don't see a stripe on the diode. Which would make it not a diode. Maybe it's a special purpose dummy component in diode casing?
I would like to see a small fire place made like this
always assume anything you can think of, someone has already thought of it, made it into a product, and made a youtube video about it:
ruclips.net/video/hurvEklwF0w/видео.html
On some listings on ebay of those mercury tilt switched there are images in it with already cracked and empty tubes...
please teardown active stylus like adonit snap. I'm interesting about the circuitary
I would still subscribe, even if you spoke complete crap Clive ‼️ I love the way you ask me questions, as if I would know what does what but I still like you asking me !!! Love ALL your videos. GBU...
Funny how they didn't use a toilet roll instead of a heatsink.. at least now you can swap it, remove and use it for some hot little project ;)
David Robertson Or just some pin that stays at the factory plus a small ledge on the blue plastic to hold it open after shipping.
Nice flame 👍😀
In front of the camera and behind it too 👍
I'm thinking that the wavy nature of the support messed with the pick and place machine.
Clive. I've always liked a nice flame light. Very cozy....but, I have an off topic question. Weren't do all volt meters show an OL (overload?) on the display as soon as the leads touch power before they give the actual voltage reading? It keeps me up at night.
The OL isn't really an overload sign. It's more of an over-range indication. I guess it's just something that fitted well in the seven segment displays.
@@bigclivedotcom Hmmmm. But, why do it do dat? All of mine do it. Why not just display a 0.0 and ramp up from there? ..... more mysterious questions from the world of the angry pixies.....
Thanks for the videos, Clive. I'm addicted to your hypnotic voice.
Andy BoBandy It only happens on auto-ranging meters. They have switched themselves to the 200mV range looking for voltage on the disconnected leads, then ramp back up to the true range after connecting to your source.
Adam savage loves these did you see his video of it it was about a month ago?
Clive will you be testing how the light runs for on a fully chaged battery, and the battery capacity please
Current draw with a freshly charged cell is about 200mA. Cell capacity measured at 1100mAh.
Suprised they used that fancy Heat Sink as a Base. Pricey Item really not needed.
Now I want to use the drive circuit and build a man-sized one! (Luckily I'm probably too lazy to do so :D )
The fact is, all your videos are great! Some better than others, but easy fun and interesting to watch. The video with "Fannie" in particular, was a bit of comic genius! You had me going for a few thinking some idiot manufacturer had actually designed this lethal toy! Very amusing!
Could be intresting to put this behind a lithophane for an intresting display
@bigclivedotcom are you sure about the 100 Ohm base resistors? This would result in ~30mA base current per transistor
Looks like there's space for 3 of these cells inside of the lamp. That could triple the time it can stay on before needing a recharge. Could be a useful mod.
I suspect just a single name-brand 18650 would double the life. Or perhaps a 5Ah 26650.
@@ThetaReactor def 26650 would be perfect
Wrap World Creations Is there a standard size above 26650 ?
Hey Big Clive, did you have a video about that cigarette lighter that uses a high voltage and creates a spark by ionizing air?
I saw one at the store for 20$.
Search my videos for arc lighter.
A review on a MPPT solar controller would be good
I've got a similar bulb but it's a screw in one.
It also doesn't have a button switch but cycles through the settings by turning it on and off.
Would it be possible to fix it to one setting some how ?
I feel like these flexible boards are the predecessor to the flexible displays on red planet.
Greg Fuller Actually, the predecessor is the plasticy sheets in LCD displays without the multitouch glass cover.
I’ve watched loads of your videos Clive & it’s the first time I remember hearing you ask people to subscribe - thanks for that, I think by now most people know how RUclips works!! (I am subscribed BTW!).
I just sometimes wonder if it does encourage people to check if they're subscribed. I prefer to let people make the decision themselves.
I have a rather tiny Voltcraft Multimeter lying around
, with a not working Display. I want to send it to you if you want. The Batteries are new but there is something wrong.
That style switch bad solder not withstanding have poor contacts, a bit of contact cleaner works well soaks in thru button.
The ad at the beginning was of the 5sec variety, below my fuck off threshold.
I wonder if you could cut the last column out and wrap it tightly around the cell?
Could the low voltage behavior actually be a deliberate prompt to recharge the unit by emulating the “candle” burning down?
Why in heck wasn't I subscribed? I' ve watched you for years o_O