Great video!!! Very helpful. I’ve searched high and low for information on how to replace the rear main seal only to find out that the Model A doesn’t even real rear main seal per se . Now I know what direction to go. 👍👍👍👍👍
Model A shown at the end is a beauty and the 27 Chevy also. Thank you for taking the time to show you method of adjusting Model A bearing clearance. Very well done!
My Dad has a 31 Model A Roadster. He drove that from Joliet Illinois to New York City in 1939 with my mother t see th Worlds Fair. Can you imagine 30 mph on Rt 30 all that way.
Excellent, I'm dropping my pan tomorrow to look for the reason I'm getting a healthy drip of oil Out of the bell housing hole. Glad I got to watch this video first very informative 👍
Randall, I've driven my July '28 engine about 3,500 miles since I paid a Model A mechanic to do this for me. I didn't know anything about the history of my car but felt like it needed done after I drove my "new" car a while. The mains were out from 3 to 4 thousandths. The rods bearings were right. I'm going to do it your way next time. About how often does this need to be done? Appreciate your videos and your willingness to share your expertise. Best Regards,
I just dropped my pan on my Model A and was going to do the rear main and noticed that the stud was loose before I even removed the cotter pin. Can this be tightened after I remove the main cap or does the motor need to be pulled to remove the crankshaft to tighten?
@@randallstrickland8204 Sorry to bother you but do you mean Yes I need to pull the motor or Yes I can tighten after I remove the rear main bearing cap?
It looks to me like you took a shim off one side only not both. Is that correct? Why not both at the same time so it would be even? Would the clearance be different if it’s not torqued?
You only take one at a time on some of the bearings if I had taken one on each side it would have been to tight, I had the bolts tight but always go back and torque
Great video!!! Very helpful. I’ve searched high and low for information on how to replace the rear main seal only to find out that the Model A doesn’t even real rear main seal per se . Now I know what direction to go. 👍👍👍👍👍
I’m getting ready to drop the pan on a friends car and adjust the rod and main bearings. Good information. Thank you.
Nice car collection too!
Excellent. Thanks for sharing your knowledge. Many others will appreciate you showing how to do it and keep our Model A's on the road.
Glad it was helpful!
Used your method on my 30 coupe. Runs like a champ and lots less oil coming from the back.
I was using plastic gauge. I am aircraft mechanic that learned something new for my Model A. Thank you for passing on your knowledge & experience.
Cool, thanks
Model A shown at the end is a beauty and the 27 Chevy also. Thank you for taking the time to show you method of adjusting Model A bearing clearance. Very well done!
Glad it was helpful!
My Dad has a 31 Model A Roadster. He drove that from Joliet Illinois to New York City in 1939 with my mother t see th Worlds Fair. Can you imagine 30 mph on Rt 30 all that way.
Excellent, I'm dropping my pan tomorrow to look for the reason I'm getting a healthy drip of oil Out of the bell housing hole. Glad I got to watch this video first very informative 👍
Thanks also check the oil pan bolts at ft and read sometimes they leak because they thread up into crankcase
That 31 rebuild is beautiful!!
Thank you
Thanks Randal, a great video, especially for a newbie.
Randall, I've driven my July '28 engine about 3,500 miles since I paid a Model A mechanic to do this for me. I didn't know anything about the history of my car but felt like it needed done after I drove my "new" car a while. The mains were out from 3 to 4 thousandths. The rods bearings were right. I'm going to do it your way next time. About how often does this need to be done? Appreciate your videos and your willingness to share your expertise. Best Regards,
Thanks. If your bearings are in good shape you should be set for a long time but if you hear them start rattling you need to adjust
Great job with the video ! Have a question when you say you removed one shim does that mean one from left side and one from right side ?
only from one side at a time
Just to clarify, if the prior mechanic had replaced the rear cap wouldn’t he have had to line bore it? Great stuff!
most would remove engine to linebore a new cap
Is there an after market kit to install conventional bearings. Very interesting video.
There is insert bearing available for the model A , the block has to be line bored to use
I have to do this to my 1930 Tudor and you really helped. Thanks much.
thanks
Hi the cárter of model a 1929 and the 1931 there are diferent to take out if the engine is in the Car ? Thanks
I really like the how to tips video you put together. Thank you for taking the time and effort to share.
Glad it was helpful!
Good job sir, and thank you. What did you set your torque wrench at? Is it the same torque for the front and center bearings?
85 ft lbs yes
Randal, if the engine were upside down on the stand, would the plasti gauge work or would you do it the same as you've shown here?
Plastic gage would work but I would do it my way
Will the plastic gauge work for the rods? And is that (Aurora Red) wheel color on your car?
Yes I think plastic will be ok for rods and yes on the aurora red Thans
Nice model T at the end.
Thanks
I just dropped my pan on my Model A and was going to do the rear main and noticed that the stud was loose before I even removed the cotter pin. Can this be tightened after I remove the main cap or does the motor need to be pulled to remove the crankshaft to tighten?
Yes the stud has a shoulder that won’t let it spin
@@randallstrickland8204 Sorry to bother you but do you mean Yes I need to pull the motor or Yes I can tighten after I remove the rear main bearing cap?
Yes you can tighten
It looks to me like you took a shim off one side only not both. Is that correct? Why not both at the same time so it would be even? Would the clearance be different if it’s not torqued?
You only take one at a time on some of the bearings if I had taken one on each side it would have been to tight, I had the bolts tight but always go back and torque
Muy bueno! Saludos desde Argentina
Do you turn the motor with or with the spark plugs in it
I remove plugs
Thanks for the excellent tips.
You bet!
Thank you. Very helpful!
You're welcome!
I have a '31 Town Sedan and a '57 Chevy also, your garage looks like mine...but yours is cleaner
LOL
Wish you were closer, I’d have you come work on mine.
Thanks
Ok so you are removing shims and not adding. I’m so confused on this part of the engine .
@@darrinwi yes remove shims to make the bearings tighter,
Thanks
Well done, thanks
Thanks for watching!
I take spark plugs out
Thanks
Randall, I have a De Luxe Tudor also, same colors as yours! Please contact me so we can compare notes.
neat