A huge thumbs up from me for calling 811 before digging !! As a gas utility worker we see lots of hit lines by home owners and contractors that don't bother with calling for locates !
First of all, I think April did a fantastic job. I read some of the comments below, IF she wants to combat the moisture in the line all she needs to do is install an in-line coalescing filter at the discharge of the compressor tank. That will collect the liquids and particulates exiting the tank with the air. Since she ran the line out of her shop under ground and then through the attic, the compressed air will go through several temperature changes and that is what will create moisture in the line. The simple fix for that is called a "point of use" filter that will be installed at the end of the line where it connects to the hose reel. Both filters need to have a float drain in or on them with a drain hose to run what they vent to a drain to prevent making a mess. Installing a refrigerated dryer is a way to give a 35 to 40 degree dew point, depending on what Cody is using the air for; ie: air tools. I don't see the need in it. But, if he is painting or using the air for test equipment then some sort of dryer would be recommended and I would suggest contacting the manufacturer of that equipment to find out requirements. As far as the hole in the wall; I would use a piece of tin or flashing cut to allow the conduit through and seal to the wall.
Can't tell you how inspiring it is to see a woman get into all these types of jobs. My little girl watches me do them a lot, and its good to know she'll have female role models in this are as well. Very well done!
Hahahaha I love it, seems like when you reach a certain number of subs the D-bags come crawling out of the woodwork, all the love and support for a hard days work is traded for snarky, smarmy know it alls. April, you are a gem! Love your go get em attitude!
Hey April! First, we wanted to THANK YOU for calling 811 before digging! 2nd, thank you for spreading the message about safe digging! Our videographer has been a fan of your channel for a long time, since he's a woodworker and video guy himself! We can't wait to see what project you come up with next!!
Absolutely love watching your videos. Was doing residential and commercial construction from the mid-1970's for about 20 years, but still learn by watching you. I've been wanting to run an air outlet from the garage to out along the driveway, but have always seen galvanized or other piping used for air transport and really didn't want to do that. Would never have thought of PEX. have to steal your idea! Thanks. (oh, and Lucky Cody!)
Nice job you made it nice and clean looks great. On Cody's side he might want a additional water separates and a automatic pneumatic oiler for his tools. The only reason why I say this is that's what we have at our automotive shop (dealership) this way you know all the water is out and your tools are always clean and lubed.
April, just come to Houston and fix my shop like yours, please!!! Lol. I do exterior doors and I ship to FW and all over if ever you are in search of a new front door. I may even drive up there and do a video with you on installing a new door into existing jamb with a water return threshold. Great videos. My favorite Chanel by far.
The overhead (attic) installation of the hose reel is very smart. I have my large IR compressor in a storage room behind the house and run 3/4" copper pipe to the basement, garage, back yard and outside workshop. I will be installing outlets to the driveway and kitchen as well. Each has a ball valve cutoff & regulator. It is quite handy.
FYI: A tip I learned from my master electrician brother-in-law. When you bury a non-metallic pipe, in order to find the buried utility at a later time, attach a length of copper wire to the pipe. This will allow the sensor device to pick up the utility. Good videos and keep up the good work. Viewer from McKinney.
I would have run a cat 6 network cable as well so you can have hard wired internet connectivity in your shop from the house. But you might have had to go to a larger conduit. And I love the bumble-bee mini in the driveway!
That is a great idea, my new shop will be away from the house but I want to run an air line up there, will run cat 6 so it feeds connectivity back too!
I was looking at the Ontario electrical code and they (Under section 12-012 subrule-1) recommend 600mm (About 24 inches) depth for conduit with wire carrying 750v or less unarmored. I also think this is to take you below the frost line as well so you conduit doesn't heave with frost penetration into the ground. I think 7 inches (210mm) may be quite a bit shallow.
When you need to get the "slug" out of your holesaw, if the holesaw isn't jammed hard on to the mandrel often you can just unscrew it and use the drill bit through the mounting hole to force the slug out. Saves a lot of time over prying it out. I have used slick materials like mylar sheeting to make discs that go in between the holesaw and the mandrel so the holesaw can always be removed by hand. They don't last forever but it sure is nice to just reach down, unscrew the holesaw and pop the slug out.
April, this is a very nice, well thought out project....and I'm sure much appreciated! Most men (at least 50%) would have spent 1-2 weeks trying to figure out the quickest and cheapest way for burying the conduit rather than just "grab a shovel and get it done". I applaud your ability, volition and will to do 'good hard work', makes you a "star in my eyes"! Be sure you have all of your 'want to own' tools and machines on your Christmas List. Cody needs to see it, make it conveniently available for him to read each day (on the refrigerator door)...with a big circle around the most desired 'prize'....lol. Thanks for the video. ....13
Great videos always!! My compressor is in my front garage 200 feet from my rear garage. Just used 1/2 pvc and buried with my electric lines. Your method is better. But no problems for 15 years. Once again thank u for a great channel!!
April, nice job, love the channel. Suggestion, if Cody finds him self not having enough air for intermittent high demand loads, like a large impact gun or the such. You could install a small tank in your attic, like 20 gallons or so. This will give a local reservoir that can supply a high flow and keep the pressure up for a short period of time. You can get them pretty cheap and it helps a lot. If you really want to be nice a check valve will keep the air in that tank when you become an air hog in your shop. Remember to run a drain line to a low point you can get to for periodic draining. Thanks for the videos you really do a great job on them and the editing.
That's a good idea. You can get one of those little 5 gallon tanks used for tires from the local auto store and just put it in series. That will give some good punch for things like air hammers or impact wrenches which really only need that extra "go" when you initially start using them.
Thanks for the well thought out comment. I considered installing a holding tank actually but decided against it just because I didn't have one already around. However it's a great idea. Cody has been using the line for the past 6 months or so without any issues so I don't think any will pop up but if they do I'll certainly install one. : )
While you are right, just to clarify to others. A Street Elbow is male on one end female on the other. While a sweeping elbow is a large radius like she used as apposed to a regular 90° that is short and stubby (at least in the plumbing trade). Almost all 90°'s in conduit are sweeping, short ones require a pull port.
A street 90 is a standard 90 with a male and female end. A sweep 90 is a street 90 with a long sweep radius. She used a "Sweep" 90. Sweep 90's are almost always used with electrical conduit. It makes it easier to pull long runs of wire, or in her case, hose.
Good video. I'm not sure if it was already said, but I would put a rubber heater hose around that air line at each end where it meets the PVC so that the vibration does not slowly wear a hole in it, and it will vibrate just a little, no matter what. Keep up the great work.
If you find that the volume from the line is not enough, you could always add a tank inline up in the attic. It would provide a larger volume for large air tools......If he ever finds that he needs more air.
I love your videos. You are a very good teacher. One suggestion I have is more pallet projects. I know they are hard to work with but a lot of people are into reworking them. I would like to see some of the ideas you come up with.
She has said previously (in comments on other videos) she does not build by request. She has too long of a list of her own, building what she needs/wants and brings a camera along. Besides, you'd never be able to make everyone happy.
Having done the same project years ago there are a few things I have learned from it. First put a dropped spot in the line in the ground and put in a tee. Then off the bottom of the tee run another pipe out of the ground. That one just needs a valve and can stay outside as it is your water drain. The pipe in the ground will accumulate lots of water because it stays cooler and the water will condense. Not so much in the summer as the ground gets very hot here. Another is any time you dig a ditch always put in more than one pipe and bigger pipe than you need. You will need it for something in the future ie cat 5, tv cable etc. Oh and also the line you ran will actually give him more air volume and less pressure drop than what he had because the inside diameter is much larger than the hose he was using. I see you have the typical NTX clay soil but yours looks pretty easy to dig and no rocks. I live nw of fort worth and am the odd one as its all sand which is not as fun to dig as you think.
at the end of our 160 ft run we put a extra air tank. it helps with the surges that are sometimes need like for air tools. and also works as a condensation collection tank
Lovely idea April, Given the run and such a shallow infill my guess is the airline with condense up especially in winter months so I would suggest you fit a very good quality water vapour filter at Cody's end to try an minimise ice up in the line
mark - no problem with using PVC - I used it for my air lines and also my dust collection system. I installed them 20 years ago and they are still going strong
@@henrikvtcodes There is No PVC that is rated by OSHA for use with air... ratings on pressure for PVC are rated for water pressure which is different. The only safe way you can run PVC or CPVC is to encase it in metal conduit. The problem is not leaks it is explosion. Over time the plastic will keep blowing and filling and eventually weaken the plastic walls. When that happens - can be 1 year can be 30 years - and it will happen, it will explode with shards flying everywhere. You can use copper pipe or black iron but not PVC. You can also use tubing as was used in this video - but the tubing is not rigid so it will not explode and hurt anyone...
@@billvoelp9839 I really like April's videos and watch them all the time. I do agree with you that using unshielded PVC for air line is not a good idea. A buddy of mine used it in his garage to save some money over steel pipe. When I saw it, I advised him that it was unsafe. After about a year and a half, he was increasing the pressure above 90 psi to air blast some dirt out of the engine bay of his pickup when the line exploded, sending sharp shards of PVC all over the garage. He was standing by the compressor at at the end of the line, so he was not hurt, but his daughter often sat on a stool to watch him work. He was very glad that his daughter was in the house at the time, and immediately spent the money to replace the PVC line with steel. Your observations are spot on.
I would add an air tank in the attic with a drain drop in the garage this will trap water and give additional air storage for Cody's air line. Just my 2 cents worth!
Y Pop The comment I was looking for, good thinking. Adding an at use tank solves short term volume and moisture issues if purged correctly. A check valve at the tank inlet would insure full one time use of the tank's volume, in the unfortunate event you lose your supply air. There's a benefit locating the tank in a consistently cool location. Cheers
Y Pop The comment I was looking for, good thinking. Adding an at use tank solves short term volume and moisture issues if purged correctly. A check valve at the tank inlet would insure full one time use of the tank's volume, in the unfortunate event you lose your supply air. There's a benefit locating the tank in a consistently cool location. Cheers
Thank You Jim Marriott! I use to work maintenance in a shop with lots of air operated or assisted machines most had air tanks bolted to them just for that reason.
Great idea April. I share your concern about water collecting in the line. What about putting a T in the supply, just before it goes out the wall? A few feet of straight below, capped with a valve to drain the water and act as a water trap. The buried line would come out of the side of the T. One shop I worked in has no method of controlling the water and when using the paint guns you would watch water drops rolling across your fresh paint. ARGH!
Thanks, yeah I haven't seen it before either but I think it will work out well. Yeah the dirt around here is great, but down south it all turns to rock.
Great idea...wish the ground was that soft here in the Arizona desert! It looks like you were teaching you dogs how to dig in the back yard and boy will they have fun with that!
Didn't remind me of the River Dance, reminded me of giving Field sobriety tests and watching people trying to walk the imaginary line. Great idea young lady.
Keep it up April. You are one rad lady. I dig the videos and love that you are showing women all over that they can do it! You would make "Rosie" proud.
You are a good wife April!! I'd love to have the compressor out of my shop!! I have an 80 gallon 6.5 hp inside with me and when if runs... it's LOUD! LOL I did stub a 220v line to the outside of the shop when I build it so that one day (when I have "extra" time) I can build a lean to on the outside and get the noise away from me! Enjoy your video and your enthusiasm!
Looks good to me, and if he does ever need a little more air in “his” shop, he can just pop in an inexpensive reserve tank into the circuit in the attic. I’ve got a reasonably big shop, and hat was a bonus feature of putting a salvaged tire-changing machine in the far corner of my shop from my compressor, and that made a surprising boost having the resevoir that was built into the unit.
Keep on eye on CL and local advert pages for a "broken" compressor, 15 gallon portable variety. Put that in the garage attic as a reservoir. You will get much better performance of air tools with that extra bulk of air.
Ground temperature lower than ambient = liquid water generation in you air line. Unless you are pre-drying your air it will be saturated and drop out water anywhere the temperature is lower than, usually, your receiver air temp. Water is hard to remove at the best of times, can form plugs, ice up an block lines etc. Good luck with you install, hope this helps. Loved the sawmill videos.
I need to do something similar to this in my shop. so thank you for the tips I got quite a few from your project that I can use doing my project. thank you very much.
April..you do an awesome job on it all but I really like the simplistic style of your woodworking... I am a fellow Texan as well...keep up the good work!
Watching this from Ct I realized yet another reason it stinks to live in a cold climate. With our harsh winters all of our trench have to be at least 18" deep. Makes the digging alot less fun, I know I have laid alot of conduit for work. Great job as usual my son as always loved his Sunday April video
Nice job, lucky you living in a non freezing climate. Moisture could be a problem, possibly another ball valve that you could open wide to force trapped water out on occasion. Also if Cody ever needs more air, you could add a tank in his garage, but he may never need more than the 1/2" line like you said. You are truly a jack of all trades, I very much like your videos.
Instead of a drain on a vertical section Put a good sized air dryer in the hose before it leaves your shop that way it catches the moisture on the down side of the feed line and there is none in hose on the way to Cody's shop.
Peter Menningen I was wondering if there was a better solution for the collection of condensation in the bottom of the pipe as well. Would the air dryer be best suited before the underground section or after or both? I see the temperature difference from coming inside to outside to inside as being a point for most condensation to occur. Am I wrong?
Ryan Hardin condensation is all over the place in an air compressor system. high pressure dropping to low pressure causes the condensation to build. the small air dryers do a little work but it is only a half inch line so simply open the line full boar and everything in there, if any at all will come right out. it's best to use a dryer close to the tool or the final line if you need to use one.
April is in Texas. If you use a dryer at the feed the moisture is already gone. I would agree if the temp difference was going to be like Middle Alaska or if she lived in southern Florida with the Humidity around 100% But most of Texas is a Dry Heat :) LOL and the shop is probably at a lower temp than the soil and the Garage probably is not air conditioned so the temp difference is in the right direction for a chemical dryer. If my assumptions are wrong I'm sure April will correct them.
it is a half inch air hose. the line won't really collect water. put an air chuck on it and open it up for 3 seconds and the entire line will purge completely. the only time it would be a problem is if all the use was very low air consuming like air brushing. I am not saying an air dryer wouldn't be beneficial but it wouldn't be any more beneficial then anywhere else in the shop.
You project sounds like the total run is maybe 50 or 60 feet, so pneumatic physics likely wont affect you very much. However if somebody wants to do this with a significantly longer run, say 2-300 feet (or more.) then a much larger air line would be recommended. It takes time to move the air from one end of the line to the other. A larger line would require a higher volume of air to fill, but it ensures a more constant supply at the receiving end of the hose. For example, when we ran a natural gas line from our office to the shop (about 400 feet) we ended up using a 4" gas line underground and reduced that down to the required 3/4 inch once we entered the new building. Otherwise we may have ran into a situation where the furnace was starved for gas. The same principles would also apply to someone running a pneumatic tool - especially one that required a constant supply of air such as a sander or an impact.
Great video, it would of been convenient to run wire in the trench for a compressor switch in his garage. Not sure of your drier setup but running the line out of the compressor head with flex line to pitched schedule 40 for cooling through a filter then to the tank to keep all moisture out.
Shan Destromp what is wrong with using pex with air? It's the same thing as polyethylene airline it's just cross-linked that makes it stronger it's not sunlight resistant though. I just wouldn't use shark bite fittings I would use those crimp on ones!
A trick I learned from a commercial cabinet shop was to use 3/4" PVC pipe with a 460# PSI rating. I have a 35' X 24' shop and put in 7 air drops on the long walls for less than $100 including the brass connectors.
Yet another great and informative video. I am not too experienced in using extended lines so I don't know much about the part you are going to install to drain moisture out of the line. Would you either be able to include that in a future video or comment on how that works? Thanks again for sharing your talents and projects! Mike
great job April! i have never seen a tube of silicone like that before im pretty sure the all require a mastic gun over here in the uk! i will have to keep my eyes open!
Great project, April. The one concern I have is having a hole open to the attic from the garage. I'm no expert in Texas building code, but having an opening in the ceiling might be against fire code. It may also lead to dirt bike exhaust in the house. Keep the videos coming.
I was gonna mention condensation in the line but that's been addressed. I don't know what your frost line is in TX, but up here in NJ I had to go down 36" to avoid frost.
I freaking love your videos and I'm insanely jealous of your tools and shop! I love that all your recent videos are you doing renovations! it's really awesome to watch! you make it look so easy!
I would have put 2 lines to his shop. One for future use. I ran 2 to my garage, one for electrical power and one for cable TV and internet. I also have a parachute cord in there as a fish wire for whatever I need to pull through there in the future.
Yeah I actually was going to run a coax through the line as well but got lazy and didn't want to mess with it. : ) I'll probably go back and see if I can run a fish tape through the line and pull one through though, because having a hard line internet line to my shop would be sweet.
First couple times you said sweeped 90 i kept hearing "Sweet 90" :P I just thought "Well it IS pretty cool I guess..?" hehehe :D Loving the Michael Flatley dance moves :P Was there any utilities nearby in the end?
not being nativ to English, I thought it was actually called a "sweet 90" and thought it was a really strange name for a 90 degree elbow. now i feel stupid...
Both are right. Street refers to the "male" or street end on one and socket on the other, while a female on both ends is a "socket" elbow. The Sweep refers to the form of the bend, so it is a sweep 90 street elbow.
Awesome work 👍 I am going to do the same for my new shop. I'll have the compressor in the old garage and line underground so I wont have to listen to it running lol
As you forgot your drain-line at the bottom of the run, you can still put a drip loop in his garage. That way he can blow the line out any time he wants to clear the water.
Nice dance moves Wilker. Very neat install, but yes you should have put a reg/ filter before leaving your shop. I've done many kilometres of underground cables, always best to run cable (air line) out to length then feed conduit over and glue. That or put a draw string in first. Those sharp 90 bends can be a real problem.. Cheers mate
Be sure that your PEX is uv resistant. Not all types are and your fluorescent tube lights will ruin the tubing in a matter of months. Covering it with black foam pipe insulation and taping the joints will stop the problem. The insulation will also help to reduce the moisture in the line due to air temps and humidity in the shop.
A huge thumbs up from me for calling 811 before digging !! As a gas utility worker we see lots of hit lines by home owners and contractors that don't bother with calling for locates !
My boyfriend and I are renovating our home right now and we both watch your videos! Thank you!!
Mounting the reel in the ceiling, genius.
First of all, I think April did a fantastic job. I read some of the comments below, IF she wants to combat the moisture in the line all she needs to do is install an in-line coalescing filter at the discharge of the compressor tank. That will collect the liquids and particulates exiting the tank with the air. Since she ran the line out of her shop under ground and then through the attic, the compressed air will go through several temperature changes and that is what will create moisture in the line. The simple fix for that is called a "point of use" filter that will be installed at the end of the line where it connects to the hose reel. Both filters need to have a float drain in or on them with a drain hose to run what they vent to a drain to prevent making a mess. Installing a refrigerated dryer is a way to give a 35 to 40 degree dew point, depending on what Cody is using the air for; ie: air tools. I don't see the need in it. But, if he is painting or using the air for test equipment then some sort of dryer would be recommended and I would suggest contacting the manufacturer of that equipment to find out requirements. As far as the hole in the wall; I would use a piece of tin or flashing cut to allow the conduit through and seal to the wall.
Cody's a lucky dude
Can't tell you how inspiring it is to see a woman get into all these types of jobs. My little girl watches me do them a lot, and its good to know she'll have female role models in this are as well. Very well done!
Loved your dance, the "Ditch Digger's Stomp!" Doing some nifty projects there April, practical and useful and you get your reel back too.
Nice video, April.
The idea I find super, especially the air line does not bother anyone.
Hahahaha I love it, seems like when you reach a certain number of subs the D-bags come crawling out of the woodwork, all the love and support for a hard days work is traded for snarky, smarmy know it alls.
April, you are a gem! Love your go get em attitude!
Hey April!
First, we wanted to THANK YOU for calling 811 before digging! 2nd, thank you for spreading the message about safe digging! Our videographer has been a fan of your channel for a long time, since he's a woodworker and video guy himself! We can't wait to see what project you come up with next!!
:) That's awesome, tell him I said hello and I'm glad he enjoys the channel. Cheers.
April I always enjoy watching your videos. You always have a fun project you are working on and you always put the extra effort in to do a job right.
Absolutely love watching your videos. Was doing residential and commercial construction from the mid-1970's for about 20 years, but still learn by watching you. I've been wanting to run an air outlet from the garage to out along the driveway, but have always seen galvanized or other piping used for air transport and really didn't want to do that. Would never have thought of PEX. have to steal your idea! Thanks. (oh, and Lucky Cody!)
Really liked the detail of mounting the hose reel recessed in the ceiling. I will keep that one in mind for future installs. Thanks April!
Love your videos april!! Keep learning and doing great things!!!
Nice job you made it nice and clean looks great. On Cody's side he might want a additional water separates and a automatic pneumatic oiler for his tools. The only reason why I say this is that's what we have at our automotive shop (dealership) this way you know all the water is out and your tools are always clean and lubed.
April, just come to Houston and fix my shop like yours, please!!! Lol. I do exterior doors and I ship to FW and all over if ever you are in search of a new front door. I may even drive up there and do a video with you on installing a new door into existing jamb with a water return threshold. Great videos. My favorite Chanel by far.
The overhead (attic) installation of the hose reel is very smart. I have my large IR compressor in a storage room behind the house and run 3/4" copper pipe to the basement, garage, back yard and outside workshop. I will be installing outlets to the driveway and kitchen as well. Each has a ball valve cutoff & regulator. It is quite handy.
FYI: A tip I learned from my master electrician brother-in-law. When you bury a non-metallic pipe, in order to find the buried utility at a later time, attach a length of copper wire to the pipe. This will allow the sensor device to pick up the utility. Good videos and keep up the good work. Viewer from McKinney.
But there already is copper wire in that pipe, isn't it?
I would have run a cat 6 network cable as well so you can have hard wired internet connectivity in your shop from the house. But you might have had to go to a larger conduit. And I love the bumble-bee mini in the driveway!
That is a great idea, my new shop will be away from the house but I want to run an air line up there, will run cat 6 so it feeds connectivity back too!
Bury more than one conduit. PVC conduit is cheap, digging is hard, and you never know what you might want in the future.
I was looking at the Ontario electrical code and they (Under section 12-012 subrule-1) recommend 600mm (About 24 inches) depth for conduit with wire carrying 750v or less unarmored. I also think this is to take you below the frost line as well so you conduit doesn't heave with frost penetration into the ground. I think 7 inches (210mm) may be quite a bit shallow.
colonelerotic I understand that but frost heave is still a consideration
She lives in Texas so 7" deep is fine
There were a lot of great ideas and tips in your video. Great job!
: ) Thank you Douglas.
When you need to get the "slug" out of your holesaw, if the holesaw isn't jammed hard on to the mandrel often you can just unscrew it and use the drill bit through the mounting hole to force the slug out. Saves a lot of time over prying it out.
I have used slick materials like mylar sheeting to make discs that go in between the holesaw and the mandrel so the holesaw can always be removed by hand. They don't last forever but it sure is nice to just reach down, unscrew the holesaw and pop the slug out.
April, this is a very nice, well thought out project....and I'm sure much appreciated!
Most men (at least 50%) would have spent 1-2 weeks trying to figure out the quickest and cheapest way for burying the conduit rather than just "grab a shovel and get it done". I applaud your ability, volition and will to do 'good hard work', makes you a "star in my eyes"!
Be sure you have all of your 'want to own' tools and machines on your Christmas List. Cody needs to see it, make it conveniently available for him to read each day (on the refrigerator door)...with a big circle around the most desired 'prize'....lol.
Thanks for the video.
....13
Great videos always!! My compressor is in my front garage 200 feet from my rear garage. Just used 1/2 pvc and buried with my electric lines. Your method is better. But no problems for 15 years. Once again thank u for a great channel!!
April, nice job, love the channel. Suggestion, if Cody finds him self not having enough air for intermittent high demand loads, like a large impact gun or the such. You could install a small tank in your attic, like 20 gallons or so. This will give a local reservoir that can supply a high flow and keep the pressure up for a short period of time. You can get them pretty cheap and it helps a lot. If you really want to be nice a check valve will keep the air in that tank when you become an air hog in your shop. Remember to run a drain line to a low point you can get to for periodic draining. Thanks for the videos you really do a great job on them and the editing.
That's a good idea. You can get one of those little 5 gallon tanks used for tires from the local auto store and just put it in series. That will give some good punch for things like air hammers or impact wrenches which really only need that extra "go" when you initially start using them.
Thanks for the well thought out comment. I considered installing a holding tank actually but decided against it just because I didn't have one already around. However it's a great idea. Cody has been using the line for the past 6 months or so without any issues so I don't think any will pop up but if they do I'll certainly install one. : )
I wish I was 6 months ahead in videos! I'm lucky if I'm 6 days! Thanks again, and um, tell Cody to buy some bigger tools ;)
It's called a "Street 90", "Street Elbow" or just "Street Ell". (Also "Service Ell" depending on the industry).
Love your channel!
While you are right, just to clarify to others.
A Street Elbow is male on one end female on the other.
While a sweeping elbow is a large radius like she used as apposed to a regular 90° that is short and stubby (at least in the plumbing trade). Almost all 90°'s in conduit are sweeping, short ones require a pull port.
A street 90 is a standard 90 with a male and female end. A sweep 90 is a street 90 with a long sweep radius. She used a "Sweep" 90. Sweep 90's are almost always used with electrical conduit. It makes it easier to pull long runs of wire, or in her case, hose.
Good video. I'm not sure if it was already said, but I would put a rubber heater hose around that air line at each end where it meets the PVC so that the vibration does not slowly wear a hole in it, and it will vibrate just a little, no matter what. Keep up the great work.
If you find that the volume from the line is not enough, you could always add a tank inline up in the attic. It would provide a larger volume for large air tools......If he ever finds that he needs more air.
You are a very clever woman! Thanks for taking the time to make these enjoyable videos!
I love your videos. You are a very good teacher. One suggestion I have is more pallet projects. I know they are hard to work with but a lot of people are into reworking them. I would like to see some of the ideas you come up with.
She has said previously (in comments on other videos) she does not build by request. She has too long of a list of her own, building what she needs/wants and brings a camera along. Besides, you'd never be able to make everyone happy.
The reel in the attic is a great idea. The two dogs playing were very cute. ;}
Having done the same project years ago there are a few things I have learned from it. First put a dropped spot in the line in the ground and put in a tee. Then off the bottom of the tee run another pipe out of the ground. That one just needs a valve and can stay outside as it is your water drain. The pipe in the ground will accumulate lots of water because it stays cooler and the water will condense. Not so much in the summer as the ground gets very hot here.
Another is any time you dig a ditch always put in more than one pipe and bigger pipe than you need. You will need it for something in the future ie cat 5, tv cable etc.
Oh and also the line you ran will actually give him more air volume and less pressure drop than what he had because the inside diameter is much larger than the hose he was using.
I see you have the typical NTX clay soil but yours looks pretty easy to dig and no rocks. I live nw of fort worth and am the odd one as its all sand which is not as fun to dig as you think.
April is so cool!!! Love seeing a woman doing this.
at the end of our 160 ft run we put a extra air tank. it helps with the surges that are sometimes need like for air tools. and also works as a condensation collection tank
Lovely idea April, Given the run and such a shallow infill my guess is the airline with condense up especially in winter months so I would suggest you fit a very good quality water vapour filter at Cody's end to try an minimise ice up in the line
You were scaring me for 3/4 of the video! I was mentally screaming: "NO! Do not use PVC as an air line!"
Well done!
mark - no problem with using PVC - I used it for my air lines and also my dust collection system. I installed them 20 years ago and they are still going strong
@@gilunionhall He meant PVC Electrical Conduit. Other types of PVC are ok, like you said.
@@henrikvtcodes There is No PVC that is rated by OSHA for use with air... ratings on pressure for PVC are rated for water pressure which is different. The only safe way you can run PVC or CPVC is to encase it in metal conduit. The problem is not leaks it is explosion. Over time the plastic will keep blowing and filling and eventually weaken the plastic walls. When that happens - can be 1 year can be 30 years - and it will happen, it will explode with shards flying everywhere. You can use copper pipe or black iron but not PVC. You can also use tubing as was used in this video - but the tubing is not rigid so it will not explode and hurt anyone...
@@billvoelp9839 I really like April's videos and watch them all the time. I do agree with you that using unshielded PVC for air line is not a good idea. A buddy of mine used it in his garage to save some money over steel pipe. When I saw it, I advised him that it was unsafe. After about a year and a half, he was increasing the pressure above 90 psi to air blast some dirt out of the engine bay of his pickup when the line exploded, sending sharp shards of PVC all over the garage. He was standing by the compressor at at the end of the line, so he was not hurt, but his daughter often sat on a stool to watch him work. He was very glad that his daughter was in the house at the time, and immediately spent the money to replace the PVC line with steel. Your observations are spot on.
@@gilunionhall I installed 3/4 schedule 40 pvc over 25 years ago in the ground for my air lines 0 problems.
I would add an air tank in the attic with a drain drop in the garage this will trap water and give additional air storage for Cody's air line. Just my 2 cents worth!
Y Pop The comment I was looking for, good thinking. Adding an at use tank solves short term volume and moisture issues if purged correctly. A check valve at the tank inlet would insure full one time use of the tank's volume, in the unfortunate event you lose your supply air. There's a benefit locating the tank in a consistently cool location. Cheers
Y Pop The comment I was looking for, good thinking. Adding an at use tank solves short term volume and moisture issues if purged correctly. A check valve at the tank inlet would insure full one time use of the tank's volume, in the unfortunate event you lose your supply air. There's a benefit locating the tank in a consistently cool location. Cheers
Thank You Jim Marriott! I use to work maintenance in a shop with lots of air operated or assisted machines most had air tanks bolted to them just for that reason.
Great idea April. I share your concern about water collecting in the line. What about putting a T in the supply, just before it goes out the wall? A few feet of straight below, capped with a valve to drain the water and act as a water trap. The buried line would come out of the side of the T. One shop I worked in has no method of controlling the water and when using the paint guns you would watch water drops rolling across your fresh paint. ARGH!
Those are a couple of sweet KDXs! I have an '83 myself that I'm currently restoring and I'm hoping to get to that mint of condition.
I like watching your videos April. I like the fresh ideas you come up with. Keep it going!
Good installation, the hose reel in the attic really made it look professional. I've never seen that before. Nice dirt in Texas!
Thanks, yeah I haven't seen it before either but I think it will work out well. Yeah the dirt around here is great, but down south it all turns to rock.
Great idea...wish the ground was that soft here in the Arizona desert! It looks like you were teaching you dogs how to dig in the back yard and boy will they have fun with that!
Didn't remind me of the River Dance, reminded me of giving Field sobriety tests and watching people trying to walk the imaginary line. Great idea young lady.
Actually it looks like what the kids do called shuffle dancing. there are lots of videos on youtube to see the style.
Keep it up April. You are one rad lady. I dig the videos and love that you are showing women all over that they can do it! You would make "Rosie" proud.
Nicely done April !
I can't imagine ever having a need to do this but I enjoyed watching your process anyway. I'm up here in Denton so we are practically neighbors.
You are a good wife April!! I'd love to have the compressor out of my shop!! I have an 80 gallon 6.5 hp inside with me and when if runs... it's LOUD! LOL I did stub a 220v line to the outside of the shop when I build it so that one day (when I have "extra" time) I can build a lean to on the outside and get the noise away from me! Enjoy your video and your enthusiasm!
Looks good to me, and if he does ever need a little more air in “his” shop, he can just pop in an inexpensive reserve tank into the circuit in the attic. I’ve got a reasonably big shop, and hat was a bonus feature of putting a salvaged tire-changing machine in the far corner of my shop from my compressor, and that made a surprising boost having the resevoir that was built into the unit.
Keep on eye on CL and local advert pages for a "broken" compressor, 15 gallon portable variety. Put that in the garage attic as a reservoir. You will get much better performance of air tools with that extra bulk of air.
Without a doubt this is the direction I would've went, awesome work!
Best Wife Ever :) hehe
Love the idea of hiding the reel in the attic, that's very clever!
Thanks for this proof of pex viability - have been considering plumbing my shop for air with pex. I'm ready now. :)
Good project, gives me loads of ideas, i especially like the attic mounted hose reel!
Ground temperature lower than ambient = liquid water generation in you air line. Unless you are pre-drying your air it will be saturated and drop out water anywhere the temperature is lower than, usually, your receiver air temp. Water is hard to remove at the best of times, can form plugs, ice up an block lines etc. Good luck with you install, hope this helps. Loved the sawmill videos.
Watching someone dig a hole has never been this engaging ;). Great work.
In Florida 18” to the top of the conduit is code for underground electrical. Deeper depending on if it’s primary’s, secondaries, etc.
I need to do something similar to this in my shop. so thank you for the tips I got quite a few from your project that I can use doing my project. thank you very much.
bravo. your projects are getting more intense. thanks for sharing. great video.
April..you do an awesome job on it all but I really like the simplistic style of your woodworking... I am a fellow Texan as well...keep up the good work!
I like how you put the hose real in the attic great us of space!!!!
Watching this from Ct I realized yet another reason it stinks to live in a cold climate. With our harsh winters all of our trench have to be at least 18" deep. Makes the digging alot less fun, I know I have laid alot of conduit for work.
Great job as usual my son as always loved his Sunday April video
great project April. Very interesting ideas.
; ) Thank you Tobin. I'm glad you enjoyed it.
Nice job, lucky you living in a non freezing climate. Moisture could be a problem, possibly another ball valve that you could open wide to force trapped water out on occasion. Also if Cody ever needs more air, you could add a tank in his garage, but he may never need more than the 1/2" line like you said. You are truly a jack of all trades, I very much like your videos.
Instead of a drain on a vertical section Put a good sized air dryer in the hose before it leaves your shop that way it catches the moisture on the down side of the feed line and there is none in hose on the way to Cody's shop.
Peter Menningen I was wondering if there was a better solution for the collection of condensation in the bottom of the pipe as well. Would the air dryer be best suited before the underground section or after or both? I see the temperature difference
from coming inside to outside to inside as being a point for most condensation to occur. Am I wrong?
Ryan Hardin condensation is all over the place in an air compressor system. high pressure dropping to low pressure causes the condensation to build. the small air dryers do a little work but it is only a half inch line so simply open the line full boar and everything in there, if any at all will come right out. it's best to use a dryer close to the tool or the final line if you need to use one.
Good idea but the underground line is going to collect moisture because of vast temperature differences between the soil and the ambient air temps.
April is in Texas. If you use a dryer at the feed the moisture is already gone. I would agree if the temp difference was going to be like Middle Alaska or if she lived in southern Florida with the Humidity around 100% But most of Texas is a Dry Heat :) LOL and the shop is probably at a lower temp than the soil and the Garage probably is not air conditioned so the temp difference is in the right direction for a chemical dryer. If my assumptions are wrong I'm sure April will correct them.
it is a half inch air hose. the line won't really collect water. put an air chuck on it and open it up for 3 seconds and the entire line will purge completely. the only time it would be a problem is if all the use was very low air consuming like air brushing. I am not saying an air dryer wouldn't be beneficial but it wouldn't be any more beneficial then anywhere else in the shop.
You project sounds like the total run is maybe 50 or 60 feet, so pneumatic physics likely wont affect you very much. However if somebody wants to do this with a significantly longer run, say 2-300 feet (or more.) then a much larger air line would be recommended. It takes time to move the air from one end of the line to the other. A larger line would require a higher volume of air to fill, but it ensures a more constant supply at the receiving end of the hose.
For example, when we ran a natural gas line from our office to the shop (about 400 feet) we ended up using a 4" gas line underground and reduced that down to the required 3/4 inch once we entered the new building. Otherwise we may have ran into a situation where the furnace was starved for gas. The same principles would also apply to someone running a pneumatic tool - especially one that required a constant supply of air such as a sander or an impact.
Great video, it would of been convenient to run wire in the trench for a compressor switch in his garage. Not sure of your drier setup but running the line out of the compressor head with flex line to pitched schedule 40 for cooling through a filter then to the tank to keep all moisture out.
Good ideas April. Thanks. I'm building my own Tuff Shed 24' x 24' thousands.
Thanks for this April. I didn't know you could use PEX for air lines. This will simplify my new shop setup greatly!
It's not PEX, RapidAir (and other brand variants) are either Nylon or HDPE. PEX is not rated or recommended for compressed air setups.
+Jim Hester - She put a link in the description of the RapidAir tubing. I've used this and it works great...highly recommend it for a home shop.
Shan Destromp what is wrong with using pex with air? It's the same thing as polyethylene airline it's just cross-linked that makes it stronger it's not sunlight resistant though. I just wouldn't use shark bite fittings I would use those crimp on ones!
I actually wanted to know something like this and never thought that a lady would teach me, thx alot!
Beautiful video April, you are the best.... undoubtedly.... regards!
A trick I learned from a commercial cabinet shop was to use 3/4" PVC pipe with a 460# PSI rating. I have a 35' X 24' shop and put in 7 air drops on the long walls for less than $100 including the brass connectors.
Yet another great and informative video. I am not too experienced in using extended lines so I don't know much about the part you are going to install to drain moisture out of the line. Would you either be able to include that in a future video or comment on how that works? Thanks again for sharing your talents and projects! Mike
Cool build April. Thanks
great job April! i have never seen a tube of silicone like that before im pretty sure the all require a mastic gun over here in the uk! i will have to keep my eyes open!
I just readed some of the feed back from so of your views and your doing a go job job !!
Great project, April.
The one concern I have is having a hole open to the attic from the garage. I'm no expert in Texas building code, but having an opening in the ceiling might be against fire code. It may also lead to dirt bike exhaust in the house.
Keep the videos coming.
Well done Cody is a lucky man. BTW the fence still looks great.
hogy lehet valaki egyszerre gyönyörű és ilyen barkács mester. ahh RESPECT!
I bet Cody loves it...especially with the line coming out of the ceiling....
I was gonna mention condensation in the line but that's been addressed. I don't know what your frost line is in TX, but up here in NJ I had to go down 36" to avoid frost.
good job on it. I would have made the conduit a bit bigger to accommodate a 3/4 line for future expansion
Such a huge payoff for a relatively simple project. Neat! And the attic hose reel installation is great.
I freaking love your videos and I'm insanely jealous of your tools and shop! I love that all your recent videos are you doing renovations! it's really awesome to watch! you make it look so easy!
I would have put 2 lines to his shop. One for future use. I ran 2 to my garage, one for electrical power and one for cable TV and internet. I also have a parachute cord in there as a fish wire for whatever I need to pull through there in the future.
Yeah I actually was going to run a coax through the line as well but got lazy and didn't want to mess with it. : ) I'll probably go back and see if I can run a fish tape through the line and pull one through though, because having a hard line internet line to my shop would be sweet.
awesome work
First couple times you said sweeped 90 i kept hearing "Sweet 90" :P I just thought "Well it IS pretty cool I guess..?" hehehe :D
Loving the Michael Flatley dance moves :P Was there any utilities nearby in the end?
not being nativ to English, I thought it was actually called a "sweet 90" and thought it was a really strange name for a 90 degree elbow. now i feel stupid...
Johannes Christensen Hehehe, easy mistake! :D I just thought, perhaps April thought they were super awesome elbows :P
Its actually called a "street 90" which has a flared side and a standard pipe side.
Both are right. Street refers to the "male" or street end on one and socket on the other, while a female on both ends is a "socket" elbow. The Sweep refers to the form of the bend, so it is a sweep 90 street elbow.
Wait? It's not actually called a "Sweet 90"????? I seriously thought that was what it was called.
The more you know.
That was an awesome job April.
Awesome work 👍 I am going to do the same for my new shop. I'll have the compressor in the old garage and line underground so I wont have to listen to it running lol
As you forgot your drain-line at the bottom of the run, you can still put a drip loop in his garage. That way he can blow the line out any time he wants to clear the water.
I enjoy and love watching your videos! and Cody will also be happy with low noise compressed air.
Nice dance moves Wilker. Very neat install, but yes you should have put a reg/ filter before leaving your shop. I've done many kilometres of underground cables, always best to run cable (air line) out to length then feed conduit over and glue. That or put a draw string in first. Those sharp 90 bends can be a real problem..
Cheers mate
Be sure that your PEX is uv resistant. Not all types are and your fluorescent tube lights will ruin the tubing in a matter of months. Covering it with black foam pipe insulation and taping the joints will stop the problem. The insulation will also help to reduce the moisture in the line due to air temps and humidity in the shop.
loved the hand clap. to describe your building plans.
"I know what I want. And it's what I want"
You're awesome. Look at milton high flow V fittings if you want a bit better airflow.
Kody is a very lucky man! Nice job neat and useful.
You are so freaking awesome! Cody is a very very lucky man!
Enjoying your videos. Hello from Northern Ireland!!
Nice work April.
Cody is a lucky man.
I've got a need to have air out to another building for my everlast plasma cutter. This video is exactly what I needed!
Great work, thanks for taking the time and sharing!!!