Dusty, your videos and art are really awesome man! Your tips have helped me a lot on steel and aluminum and it's easy to watch the videos with your positive attitude and presentation skills. Keep it up dude you are helping a lot of people learn a really cool skill! Thanks.
Those stinkin' walls are all over the place!. I've been attempting too many techniques. TIG gives me the best and worst results. Thanks to you I have some tricks to get me back to the table.
Man I´ve been watching your chanel for couple of weeks and I must say that it really helps me to do better TIG welds. At the beginning of the year I start welding stainless steel and it was for me pain in the ass. (literally I cried sometimes at the beginning). Now I got better quality, nice clean gold welds, also better positioning with hand and make my boss happier :D :D :D :D I really thank you and I also follow you on Instagram and I´m really happy to see more of your videos in the future. Your fan from SLOVAKIA :D
Thanks Dusty! You da man! I think that filler hand tip is a good one. I'm always trying to move that hand along with my torch hand but if I just put it at the end of the weld I won't need to think too much about that.
99% of my work is with 1 inch tube for boat rails. This is how I started and probably why it takes so long to get a decent result. I'll try running beads on flat plate and see if that helps. Been at it for about five years now!!!
Simple question, they always talk about grinding a point on the tungsten but always refer to having a ball on the end when welding aluminum, so does the sharp tip melt into a ball? Where does the ball come from? A less sharp tip , if it melts into a needed ball, would not a blunt point tip get you there faster? So explain this sharpened vs ball tip vs arc shape?
It’s really difficult to dial in your balance perfectly to maintain a point. Some machines have an easier time of doing this, more specifically the high-end ones, but I personally find it’s easier just to grind my tungsten to a slight point, and put a small ball on the end. What will happen then, is the positive side of the AC cycle, won’t deform the end of the tip, and maintain the same ball that I put on it :-)
taking forever getting things and knowledge together before attempting to TIG, so dumb question here, is the Lens the piece the cup holds onto and the diffuser screen goes into or are you calling the screen the Lens?
The outer body holds the inner Collett, and with the gas lines set up, the outer body houses a set of screens, which is where the gas comes out :-) thanks for asking a question!
Always good viewing thanks Dusty, even though I have never held a MIG or TIG torch! Soooo... here's a question you never expected to be asked: why is the last 30mm of your filler rod bent at 90 degrees?
There are multiple reasons for this. The main ones being it helps you know when you're getting to the end of your filler rod as you feel the end on your glove so you can plan to terminate the weld, but also just the basic mechanics of picking up a flat rod with gloves on is difficult. With the end bent, you can flick it upwards and grab it. Finally, if you change materials a lot like I do it means you can hang part used filler rod up to keep it clean.
same on argon flow. 12 versus 25 foot configurations, initial flow, etc... i am having a hard time balancing flow and pre and post flow when moving up in cup size with a lens. i went to a number 10 cup from a 5 and blew rust and bug holes everywhere for an hour until i ended up with what seems like are high times... 5 second pre... 12 seconds post. are these reasonable with a 3/32, wp9, 30 degree grind, 72 amps, DCEN, 11 gauge plate steel A36... nothing more frustrating than seeing it pit and rust the moment i lean on the pedal... super frustrating.
@@johncassady3971 I've never gotten shocked. but that makes me want to also bring up this. would that mean that your piece wasn't well grounded/clamped/bonded to the working surface? (not sure what proper welding terminology is for the circuit "return"). one thing i read was that poorly bonded working pieces can also behave similarly to gas starved welds. love to hear what everyone thinks of that mud in the water so to speak.
@@rodanone4895 those pre and post flow numbers are very high. Too short of a post flow should only give you a grayed out weld. I have never had problems with too little preflow, so I can't speak to that. Sounds like you need to focus more on flow rate out of the regulator. I have found a lot of gauges are inaccurate. I usually run about 25 cfh on a jazzy 10 cup with 3/32 tungsten. I have also found that too little stick out on a large cup gives a negative affect. After welding with a #5 cup, 1/2-5/8" stick out on a #10 looks crazy.
Far as getting shocked from one point is moisture..sweat can light a fire so to speak..and welding on a foggy day has also lit my fire before..avoid any contact with moisture.
The shirts are coming! I actually had some test ones made a couple weeks ago, but the quality turned out to be terrible! I wanna make sure I have a good quality stuff, before selling anything :-) stay tuned!
Do we need to completely change out the tungsten or can we just grind it back down? Im confused even if we dip the tungsten can’t we just cut the tip off and regrind? Why change out for a whole new tungsten?
I have a bad habit of not feeding the rod, I hold the rod stiff and keep dabbing until my fingers start to burn lol. I also have a bad habit of being overly obsessed with holding the tightest arc possible which usually leads to a dip. I remind myself to give an extra 1/16" or so of arc length and I usually avoid dipping altogether.
![Noob To Max With DRAGON REWORK In Blox Fruits [FULL MOVIE]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/LnBMOinoOvA/mqdefault.jpg)
Thanks for watching! Check out my latest project HERE🔥 ruclips.net/video/FpaDdDRMeyc/видео.html🔥
Dusty, you’re a class act man, you’ve definitely been a huge help man.
Dusty, your videos and art are really awesome man! Your tips have helped me a lot on steel and aluminum and it's easy to watch the videos with your positive attitude and presentation skills. Keep it up dude you are helping a lot of people learn a really cool skill! Thanks.
Kyle! I really appreciate you watching, and thanks for the kind words! More to come! Cheers my friend!
Those stinkin' walls are all over the place!. I've been attempting too many techniques. TIG gives me the best and worst results. Thanks to you I have some tricks to get me back to the table.
Awesome! Have fun! Fill and Chill!🤙🍺
Thank you for all your instructions,
😌 another just chilled, but still highly informative video. Well done Dusty!
I appreciate you watching! Thanks for the kind words:))))
Thanks for some simple but powerful advice.
Great review of the basics Dusty.
Had not even considered checking the cup for contamination! Extremely useful tips - I tend to just dive in and burn holes!
It’s just too tempting sometimes hey…?😂🙏 Thanks for watching!
Great video, I've been practicing with tig just this week and the videos you have has really been helpful! Thanks!
Cleaning the screen helped me a lot. Once again thank You for providing life changing tips on welding. Take care :)
Man I´ve been watching your chanel for couple of weeks and I must say that it really helps me to do better TIG welds. At the beginning of the year I start welding stainless steel and it was for me pain in the ass. (literally I cried sometimes at the beginning). Now I got better quality, nice clean gold welds, also better positioning with hand and make my boss happier :D :D :D :D I really thank you and I also follow you on Instagram and I´m really happy to see more of your videos in the future.
Your fan from SLOVAKIA :D
Nice one 👍🏻👍🏻
Thanks Dusty! You da man! I think that filler hand tip is a good one. I'm always trying to move that hand along with my torch hand but if I just put it at the end of the weld I won't need to think too much about that.
It’s something that I think is pretty underrated. It seems to be something a lot of people struggle with, so always good to remind :-)
Thanks man your videos looks good to learn from. May think of one of your online courses.
Your videos are great, just started TIG :)
I definitely struggle with bad sight lines. Will try and set up for the end of the weld now, thanks for the tip Dusty!
Awesome! Happy to help, thank you for watching :-)
So true. It’s a royal PITA to have to stop and clean everything up but if you don’t do it , it will have you frustrated as hell
Excellent advice thank you!💯🇺🇸
Great info yet again, my machine is still in the box, just need an argon tank and hood
Don't suppose you're in Adelaide Australia? I've got a spare hood I can give you and a spare tank I can let go dirt cheap
Thx Dusty solid info as always
Hi Luis! I appreciate you checking out the vid!🙏🙏
99% of my work is with 1 inch tube for boat rails. This is how I started and probably why it takes so long to get a decent result. I'll try running beads on flat plate and see if that helps. Been at it for about five years now!!!
Nice work! Always try to be kind to all. I appreciate your message every time :) TIG on :)
Simple question, they always talk about grinding a point on the tungsten but always refer to having a ball on the end when welding aluminum, so does the sharp tip melt into a ball? Where does the ball come from? A less sharp tip , if it melts into a needed ball, would not a blunt point tip get you there faster? So explain this sharpened vs ball tip vs arc shape?
It’s really difficult to dial in your balance perfectly to maintain a point. Some machines have an easier time of doing this, more specifically the high-end ones, but I personally find it’s easier just to grind my tungsten to a slight point, and put a small ball on the end. What will happen then, is the positive side of the AC cycle, won’t deform the end of the tip, and maintain the same ball that I put on it :-)
Start with steel not stainless or aluminum
taking forever getting things and knowledge together before attempting to TIG, so dumb question here, is the Lens the piece the cup holds onto and the diffuser screen goes into or are you calling the screen the Lens?
The outer body holds the inner Collett, and with the gas lines set up, the outer body houses a set of screens, which is where the gas comes out :-) thanks for asking a question!
Really helpful thank you 🙏
I’m using a style 17 torch and I’m looking to purchase a good kit of various cups, gas lenses, collects, etc. what kits would you recommend?
I'm excited to start learning and using Flat Plate. How much is this Flat Plate I need and where to buy it?
Thank you.
Always good viewing thanks Dusty, even though I have never held a MIG or TIG torch! Soooo... here's a question you never expected to be asked: why is the last 30mm of your filler rod bent at 90 degrees?
There are multiple reasons for this. The main ones being it helps you know when you're getting to the end of your filler rod as you feel the end on your glove so you can plan to terminate the weld, but also just the basic mechanics of picking up a flat rod with gloves on is difficult. With the end bent, you can flick it upwards and grab it. Finally, if you change materials a lot like I do it means you can hang part used filler rod up to keep it clean.
Great tips mayne 🙌🏿
Thank you
Thanks LARRYMOORE
Thank you Larry!
Dusty, could you go over argon flow and well... Getting shocked and how to avoid it? Loving the vids man.
same on argon flow. 12 versus 25 foot configurations, initial flow, etc... i am having a hard time balancing flow and pre and post flow when moving up in cup size with a lens.
i went to a number 10 cup from a 5 and blew rust and bug holes everywhere for an hour until i ended up with what seems like are high times... 5 second pre... 12 seconds post. are these reasonable with a 3/32, wp9, 30 degree grind, 72 amps, DCEN, 11 gauge plate steel A36... nothing more frustrating than seeing it pit and rust the moment i lean on the pedal... super frustrating.
Totally agree on the shocking part. It will definitely wake a mf up 😂
@@johncassady3971 I've never gotten shocked. but that makes me want to also bring up this.
would that mean that your piece wasn't well grounded/clamped/bonded to the working surface? (not sure what proper welding terminology is for the circuit "return").
one thing i read was that poorly bonded working pieces can also behave similarly to gas starved welds. love to hear what everyone thinks of that mud in the water so to speak.
@@rodanone4895 those pre and post flow numbers are very high. Too short of a post flow should only give you a grayed out weld. I have never had problems with too little preflow, so I can't speak to that. Sounds like you need to focus more on flow rate out of the regulator. I have found a lot of gauges are inaccurate. I usually run about 25 cfh on a jazzy 10 cup with 3/32 tungsten. I have also found that too little stick out on a large cup gives a negative affect. After welding with a #5 cup, 1/2-5/8" stick out on a #10 looks crazy.
Far as getting shocked from one point is moisture..sweat can light a fire so to speak..and welding on a foggy day has also lit my fire before..avoid any contact with moisture.
First coffee then fill n chill..thats gotta be a tshirt..
Make it happen dusty!
The shirts are coming! I actually had some test ones made a couple weeks ago, but the quality turned out to be terrible! I wanna make sure I have a good quality stuff, before selling anything :-) stay tuned!
Thanks
Do we need to completely change out the tungsten or can we just grind it back down? Im confused even if we dip the tungsten can’t we just cut the tip off and regrind? Why change out for a whole new tungsten?
I'm all for fill and chill, but laminar flow is your bro
Cleaning the filter and the cup? Use a soft bristle tooth brush.
Good suggestion!
how do you clean a glass cup??
Didnt think about the except the tungsten xD
I have a bad habit of not feeding the rod, I hold the rod stiff and keep dabbing until my fingers start to burn lol. I also have a bad habit of being overly obsessed with holding the tightest arc possible which usually leads to a dip. I remind myself to give an extra 1/16" or so of arc length and I usually avoid dipping altogether.
300th like......THIS IS SPARTA!!!!!!!
... Nice, Dusty ...
Cheers my friend!
Start with steel more forgiving
I'm so beginner that I don't even have mi machine already. But it's on the way
🕳️