TIG WELDING COPPER TIPS AND TRICKS
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- Опубликовано: 13 сен 2024
- In this episode of the Longevity Learning Lab, Rob shows you and explains how to TIG weld copper.
TIG Welding is a manual welding process that requires the welder to use two hands to weld. What separates TIG welding from most other welding processes is the way the arc is created and how the filler metal is added!
When TIG Welding one hand is used for holding the TIG torch that produces the arc and the other hand is to add the filler metal to the weld joint. Because two hands are required to weld; TIG welding is the most difficult of the processes to learn, but at the same time is the most versatile when it comes to different metals.
This process is slow but when done right it produces the highest quality weld! TIG welding is mostly used for critical weld joints, welding metals other than common steel, and where precise, small welds are needed.
And what welding rod are you using? A little more info would have been helpful.
great stuff Rob...thanks, cheers from Florida, Paul
Glad you enjoyed it! Thanks Paul.
Can i use silicone bronze rod for copper? What kind of rod?
thx for sharing your skills.
For copper not a bad weld, the ability to remotely adjust the amperage with either a foot pedal or torch rheostat makes copper welding a lot easier.
You keep pulling your filler rod out of your shielding gas... At high temperatures Copper will form Oxides when it comes into contact with oxygen, When you dip that oxidized filler rod back into your weld it will introduce impurity's. Also rubbing soapstone on your copper before welding it was not a good move either.
Yolog Swedge ..
Ya!
Can welding be done using only argon gas?
The result looks great to me. What kind of rod were you using?
+Ralph Dratman I didn't make the video so I can't speak for him, but I would imagine it was just 12 AWG electrical wire. It's what I use. It's super low oxygen super high purity copper up to 99.98% with trace elements, most notably, oxygen and zinc (but at levels well inside the safe range)
I wish he had told us his gas, tungsten size/type and amperage.
I use 2% ceriated for absolutely everything nowadays.
And weld it FLAT no matter the cost. Molten copper runs like water.
In general when I'm welding .030 wall copper tubing I use 55A on the button.sometimes I drop it as low as 52. But that's just related to how shaky my hand is or isn't that day.
. So almost exactly double the amperage per thickness than steel(with argon shield, no idea about helium) It may melt at a lower temp than steel but man does it draw the heat away fast.
I hear a low rate pulse can do wonders for puddle control, but I'm still fiddling with the settings. It seems to have VERY real potential if I ever figure it out! (you don't want pulse rate too low or the puddle just vanishes and boy is it hard to get back!)
Not only is pre-heat recommended, it's just about impossible to avoid!
+MrJgstoner Thank you. May I ask what welder you are using? The one I am using now does not have a numerical readout for current and I feel like I am flying blind.
The welder I use at school/work for this stuff is a miller dynasty 200. It's honestly more welder than Than I need.
AHP makes a great machine that can do just the same stuff at a SLIVER of the price.
I hear it's getting good reviews. People who have them seem to like them (last I checked)
Link here for the one I've seen reviewed
smile.amazon.com/AHP-AlphaTIG-Stick-Welder-PULSE/dp/B00REX6USW/ref=pd_rhf_cr_s_cp_5?ie=UTF8&refRID=1PAJXPFBW5GPZK7KZSF3
If all you need to do to feel comfortable is know your amperage, get a clamp on ammeter. Make SURE it has DC capability! Then you make dead sure what amps you are running down to the fraction. to do this you can take your electrode lead apart and clamp your ground directly to the copper wire, turn the machine on and write on the machine face what amps are being output at specific dial locations.
You could also just get a tungsten you don't like anymore and intentionally touch it to your work then take your measurements. (this is another place copper would be a good idea in place of steel.
The meter I use for this is on amazon here.
smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B001VGND88?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s00
I know that one works fine and is a steal compared to any others I found that could measure DC amps
+MrJgstoner That clamp meter is the best idea I've heard in a long time! Thanks so much.
Thanks! RUclipsr AvE helped a lot by suggesting clamping directly to the copper leads. The dude is a genius and really funny
That weld at the beginning looks like cold lap, once it got hot it was better at wetting in.
What gas were you using? I've heard a bunch of people say to use 100% helium rather than an argon mix. It puddles faster and you get a better looking bead. What are your thoughts?
I agree, helium would probably wet faster and not make you struggle with blowing holes when the whole thing soaks up the heat.
You said "set up just like aluminum... Just like stainless... " polarity?
He has no idea! what he's talking about. The fumes! they got to his brain!
Exactly what i was thinking.. Welding aluminium and stainless steel is not the same.. AC/DC?? 😂
Rob your camera man needs a darker lens so we can she the puddle. You was explaining but I could not see anything but the glow of the arc.
technically penetrationis what you want for all metals or else the weld won't bond
tungsten is lanthanum or pure? thanks for the video
Hi there. Does the gas have to be 100 % argon or would you use a argon/helium mix. And which colour electrodes do you use, we only stock white and red tip. I was wondering if there's anything I'd have to buy in before we undertake the job. Cheers.
Helium is the gas of choice, just like stainless you need to be in and out quickly with lots of power.
Sicktrickintuner what do you mean "with lots of power"? Perhaps you mean with adequate power to start the puddle? -A lot of newbies on here, you will confuse them with your confusing wording.
+Benjamin Bauer
As with welding aluminum, copper is a major heat sink as the conductive properties work very well with copper. Most tig welders are in the 200 amp range and I am usually at or above about 10% the 1 amp per .001"
ok, but you said "just like with stainless..." which doesnt make sense when the material being discussed here, copper, is many times more conductive than stainless. MAtter of fact, you want as little heat input as possible when welding SS because it warps so easily. As far as Helium for shielding; its only necessary for Heliarc welding (using straight polarity) because He is 170% more heat conductive than Ar; which means you should be using less heat (amps) not more to weld relative to DCEN welded steel with Ar shielding.
I have looked high and low for someone to explicitly say how much power they expect to need to weld copper and here, lo and behold, do I find my answer! Thank you for being clear and saying more than "you're gonna need a lot of amps!"
What filler wire? I've seen some other youtube videos using stripped romex
I learned a lot today. O boy. How to make carne azada?😀😂
What did you use as a filler rod?
he's not replying because he doesn't remember! the welding fumes made him dementia
What gas mix?
We used 100% argon. Let us know if you have any other questions.
And you should be using Helium...
All wrong. I just finished welding 1/4" X1" buss bars. Tig welded about 210 amps AC with AC balance on full penetration using straight argon shielding and a 200 amp water cooled torch. No expensive helium needed. Use 1/16 3DOC tig rod ( triple de-oxidzed). Rule #1, elevate weldment off the table which will suck all the heat from your joint! Most important!!!
....that's toilet.......
Was the tig welder AC or DC
Jaydon Fuller AC polarity
Tim S. can copper be welded with dc tig
Jaydon Fuller His welder is Ac/Dc machine, he said he was using DC. I have only tried AC a few times with decent results. Usually I braze copper since its not that strong of metal and the braze is stronger.
Use DC straight polarity also known as DC electrode negative for all thicknesses or u can use AC for thin. Google Tig welding charts and it will tell u how to set up for different metals.
What a joke.
100% helium burns hotter, allows you to form your puddle faster, and get moving before oxidation builds up.
Thats exactly what i heard , helium for red copper. I really have to figure this out...
ac or dc?
DC
set it up same as aluminum and stainless???? aluminum you put set machine to AC and stainless is DC negative. this guy know what hes talking about?
I can't see any penetration on that Copper😑
Lmao what. Zero penetration even with a bevel. Joint setup was a joke. No mention of gas or machine settings. Didnt even attempt to shield with post flow. Weld looks like shit. I think this guy lied a little on his resume to get this gig.
So slow to get welded ' ! I see , i am , welder's too ! I had been working as gold welding ' ! Yes ! So simple ' , than welding copper 's !
you said "Tig weld copper just like TIG weld Steel, Stainless and Aluminum..." Since Al and Steel are welded with different polarity and fillers, how can that be? Looks like copper filler which would not be used on steel, aluminum, nor stainless. Prob better to say what polarity, amp, gas, filler rod, etc., for us to understand what you are doing.
Hi John,
I think you misunderstood. We said the setup of the machine is similar to setting up the TIG for other processes. However, it is different to weld it which we go over.
LWELDS.com Still yo never mentioned any machine settings, tungsten type or size or even which shielding gas you used...
LWELDS.com Hey. I sincerely think you should see the weld.com
channels video on tig welding copper. Gets perfect results without heat soaking the whole piece and he even explains everything
need to learn what you are saying and doing. NO where near enough heat this was a braze not a weld. You need Helium to increase amps especially on a 200 amp machine then once the copper starts to melt you got to move not go slow but your base metal never melted so like I said this was a braze.
Video editado.
El 1er pase sale grumos
Por eso le da el 2 do pase por eso es que sale tan quemado el trabajo.
Dude cooked the shit out it. If done right the weld should have colour similar to stainless, they reason it looks grey is because u oxidized the copper. When you oxidize the copper like that u wreck the properties u want from copper such as corrosion resistant and excellent conductivity of electric current.
que feo cordón que feo soldas