How to lay flooring part 3: laying locking laminate
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- Опубликовано: 19 сен 2024
- Watch our step-by-step video showing how to lay laminate flooring, with expert advice and top tips to help you complete the job with confidence.
See the other parts in this series:
Part 1: Preparation
• How to lay flooring pa...
Part 2: Underlay
• How to lay flooring pa...
Part 4: Laying Tongue & Groove Solid Wood
• How to lay flooring pa...
Part 5: Finishing Touches & Maintenance
• How to lay flooring pa...
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Хобби
This must be the most detailed and clear 8 minute-ish how-to video on the internet❣️
I've watched so many videos on laminate flooring and your's by far the best. Simple, direct and to the point. I especially like the illustrations. Thanks or should I say cheers.
I wish I had found this video before beginning my flooring. I kind of want to start over. This makes it so much easier to understand.
I'm sure you've done a great job 👏
What a fantastic tutorial and the tips and tricks made it even better.
Thank you!
I have never done anything like this in my life...and this simple but completely thorough video has given me confidence, and covered all the obstacles. Brilliant, thank you....here I go !!
with every video i watch or repeat i get more confident and comfortable tackling this job. I can do this. no experience required lol.
so? how did it go?
detail enough for beginner, top class trainner. l love your works.
Thank you for your great feedback! Much appreciated 😊
best video I have seen so far. thanks so much for being clear and concise
The tip showing how you overlap boards to get the correct length of cut at the end of the run is a great idea thanks
4:38 B&Q should advise that the H-block stagger pattern used here is not typical for aesthetic reasons. Other, less uniform stagger patterns exist and may be preferred.
Yeah H-pattern should never be used. Staggered increases the strength and looks better.
Hi, I'm laying some laminate and think the pattern in the video looks too uniform. Do I need a pattern at all? or will be ok to just let what ever's left at the end of each row begin the new row (hope that makes sense!).
My laminate flooring from b&q said to avoid the H pattern
Excellent. No waffle just useful advice.
The floors are so lovely
We approve this message 😎
This video is so helpful thank you so much. Lots of great advice and tips
You're welcome! I'm glad this video has helped you 😁
Great instructions used them all when I installed my living room.
Very good video with extremely helpful illustrations.
Best video yet. Love the cgi explanations. Windsor, Canada
Super helpful. Very thorough👏🏽thanks
We're so happy you found our video helpful, thanks for the lovely feedback! 😄
Your videos are the best on RUclips. Very helpful and detailed with graphics and calculations. Thank you so much!!
Thank you for this video. Its perfect because im planning to lay it myself down and all the questions are now answerd. Thank you so much!
Excellent video.I will have this on pause while I start this project tomorrow. Thanks.
Great video, very informative and easy to follow
Thanks so much for this simple and fantastic video. What i love so much its the finishing in part 5, it answered all my questions. Now i am set in fixing my laminating floor.
If I have to feed a board in the final row underneath an architrave (as shown in the video), how is it then possible to join it to the previous row if the locking system requires that they are introduced at a 30 degree angle? Thank you
Thank you for your response. I've previously done what you've suggested but I didn't feel too happy about cutting of the locking part, but if that's the best option then I think I'll continue. thanks again for the advice. :)
juliet amah how did the floor come out?
I watched thousand videos this one the best explanations.
Alex Walker I have reservations about the amount of flooring videos you claim to have watched.
omg loved it! the way u explained it was so easy to understand! thank you so much!
Great vid guys, thanks for all the tips. Looking forward to my project
Can you do one on threshold bars that you stock ?
Excellent video. Thank you very much.
Steve
Georgetown, Texas USA
It was very informative
We're glad to hear this 😊
Brilliant video series.
I have never done anything like this before but I will attempt it , it's not a lot I have to do
Thanks for the video & tips. Good general info...
Great video, thanks B&Q guys!
FANTASTIC info! Thank you!
Very help full thank you
I've got metal door frames how do I get around this problem with laminate flooring help
thank you
cheers for this makes life easier
thankyou so helpfull and great demonstration ☺
Nice job good
Thank you 😊
When you have one of those snap and lock pieces against the wall with a quarter inch gap, are you supposed to trim off the tab on the wall side, or do you just leave it on?
Any protruding tab should be removed and then use the spacers to ensure the correct expansion gap is applied. If the resultant gap is too big for your scotia or skirting to cover, it would be better to start the first run with a half width plank and then the final run can be cut to the required width. Remember the scotia or skirting should be affixed to the wall rather than the laminate - this allows the laminate boards the ability to expand underneath into the gap provided. Hope this helps 🙂
I have a 18 ft. Built in Dresser that runs the total width of my master bedroom . The dresser currently sits on top of old carpet. After removing the old carpet I'm thinking of running a strip of laminate parallel to the dresser that would slide under the dresser. Then lay the rest of my laminate perpendicular to that one strip of laminate . I'm worried about losing the " Floating Effect" on that one side of my floor. The dresser has Intricate mounding at the bottom , that's why I'm thinking of running that one strip parallel to the dresser and sliding it half way under the dresser.
The other solution would be to remove the drawers and jack the dresser slightly off the floor, slide the laminate under and continue running my flooring perpendicular to the dresser. I will end up damaging and having to repair the dresser . Again I worry about losing the "Foating" effect and the floor may buckle because of the weight of the dresser would lock that end down.
Please give me some advice on solving this problem. Thank you
How do you prevent the boards from moving after wedges have been removed and the trim has been fitted?
Hi, once the floor has all been clipped together, there should be very minimal movement
excellent video - makes me think I don't need the husband to help me after all - especially when I have to wait until the football is over - when he may or may not be in the best of moods! lol!
great video
Is thay high gloss? Looks good. Brand? Color?
Do the spacers get removed before putting in the quarter rounds?
Hi Nic, the spacers should only be in place when laying the flooring. Once every panel has been installed, you remove them. I hope this helps 😊
@@bandq hi thanks for clarifying- also I watched your other video for uneven floors where you all installed hardboard to flatten floors. Can input a layer of spacers or wood chips under one of them if there is a 2 inch dip that is about 2 feet wide? Second question what would the hardboard product be called in the US please?
The spacers won't be suitable to pack in a floor that's not level. Hardboard in the US is called high-density fiberboard (HDF), I would double check with your local hardware store. I hope this helps! 😊
Very good videos
great video but I never line up the joints like that. it looks more like a real wood floor when you don't line up the joints.
Joints ae suppose to be at least 8" apart.
Joints are supposed to be staggered, correct
Should I put spacers at the end of the boards and why?
Spacers should be used at the ends of the boards (as well as the sides) adjacent to the walls. The spacers create an expansion gap to allow the boards to expand due to changes in heat and humidity - note that boards will expand both width & length-ways.
A useful tip is that boards should be laid so the protruding tongue of the click-fitting mechanism faces away from the starting corner of the room. If there is a protruding tongue at the finishing wall then this would need to be trimmed off, although usually the final boards are cut to fit so this would not be relevant.
Scotia or skirting can then be used to cover the gap. It is important that these are affixed to the wall and not the laminate - this then allows the laminate boards the ability to expand underneath into the gap provided.
We hope this helps 😊
thanks u very much
Can you please explain why you don't take off the skirting board first?
Hi Kat, this series of videos are to show the basics on DIY how to lay flooring. In these videos we are also showing how to use flooring trims. Removing the skirting boards will be more of a complex job as there is more to it, such as, patching up any damages made to the wall. I hope this helps 😄
tanks dude that was awsome..
I need tips on how to cut around door frames, (oddly shaped and not plum skirts) with a handsaw.
Daniel, search my site for the info 👍
Great video and lots of useful tips! :-)
Amazing!
Cool stuff!
Nice
good
Don't need to glue it down ??
Hi, B+Q
I live in a rented flat and im not allowed to cut the door architrave how do i go about laying the floor around my door without leaving a gap? will it be ok to lay the floor tight up to the door architrave?
thanks
matt
this video was just what i needed thanks guys
it is good
Now I am confused. This looks good. But I've never before seen alternate butt joints lined up right across the floor. Everyone I've seen previously recommends random butt joints across the floor. Two reasons are put forward. Greater stability and random joints look better and more natural.
bandq they should be staggered, this video is embarrassing and so wrong
They missed some very important instructions that you should put your floor down in random cuts or at least 3rds, alternating full boards looks bad. Also best to either use a laminate floor cutter or mitre saw for all your cuts, a scroll saw will really slow you down, also good to have a table saw when your installing as well.
Their video could do with being updated as it's a very old video and alot of things have changed.
Yea i thought the H pattern was not good to do.
Plus my flooring pack says to pick boards at random from each of the packs as the colour can vary and you don't want blocks of colour.
A 32mm hole for a 15mm pipe? Isn't that too big?
Hi there, cutting a bigger hole allows for expansion. You can use disks to cover the hole once finished. You will see this in part 5 - bit.ly/30otzB6 at timestamp 1.32. I hope this helps! 😊
what purple is that ?
Hello! Are you asking about the purple paint in the background? 🧡
@@bandq yes sir
Very good
Holes and halfs is the worst way to do this. Disgusting.
Thank you