I recently change my fuel filter and pressure regulator, which is in one unit on my 2004 Jeep Grand Cherokee and when I blew on the new one the air when out pretty easily, but when I blew on the old one it was almost impossible to make the air go thru. My Jeep shut off in slow traffic but after the change, it has been running fine so far.
i have a question, i am have the same issue but idk if it's the fuel pump or fuel pressure Reg? what you think should change the reg since it less a pain or just do the pump ?
I like a crank that needs the pump to prime the system. Let’s oil pressure build before the engine really gets going. Extra wear on starter is worth longer engine life.
@@digitalchaos1980 manufacturing these days is so good that starters are well built enough to handle it, and "they" say the wear that happens when an engine first runs and the oil pump hasn't built up pressure and flow yet is a large amount of an engine's wear. So I figure it never hurts for oil to be flowing good before fuel is introduced to the engine in an amount high enough to start, even if that means an extra second or so of starter engagement.
Mine slowly kept taking longer to start before it wouldnt start at all. I changed crankshaft position sensor and spark plugs and still wont start. Gas is squirting from the fuel rail. Im about to have a Mechanic look at it. Dont know where to go from here but would love to have some assistance. As i like to fix things myself.
Your starter maybe? I had mine shorten out at the fuel injector driver/pulser inside the pcm ( mosfet transistor ) i opened mine up and found the problem but after a month of trying to find the part in random devices i almost had it but I eventually messed up on my pcm by the time i actually found the part number on ebay for the transistor mosfet I already torn up the layers of the circuit board so i just ordered a new pcm and it worked like a charm . I just needed to change my oil since it was full of gas and smoke was coming out the exhaust like a mf . So if you changed your head gasket and still have a similar problem as me first check your wires from the injectors to make sure they are all good if they are good with the pcm connector disconnected and not good with it connected then you probably need a new pcm. I figured i fucked mine up when i changed my valve cover gasket and 2 wires from my injectors touched ground or someshit. Btw the fuel injector transistor mosfet inside the pcm the thing that makes the injectors pulse the part number is mtd3055vl . 97 cherokee country 4.0 . I know its long but i hope someone in the future could find it helpful because i sure wish someone would of told me this exact problem which was only posted once by another dude on some forum but barly even explained it . Hope it made sense cuz im high asf
@@mobmob5944 as someone who's replaced a buttload of parts trying to source this problem. Can't rule anything out. Was thinking PCM might be a culprit myself given that regulates the fuel amounts. Thanks for the tip
TheLateModelTech2.0 I have a 1997 Grand Cherokee. Just checked the fuel pressure and it’s reading 42 psi. I think spec say 45-54 psi. Would my psi cause it to stall? It stays at 42psi with the throttle down.
Thanks for the video dude. I have a long crank issue too. Replaced the fuel pump and all of the individual fuel injectors too with Bosch products. Long crank still won't go away. Is there anywhere else on the fuel line other than the pump assembly where you could be losing fuel pressure?
I just installed a one way check valve in the fuel line back near the tank. It keeps the fuel in the line and stops it from bleeding back into the tank. Problem solved.
@@kodiak7438 if I'm not mistaken, the 97+ Cherokees include that as part of the fuel pump assembly on top of the tank. No separate fuel pressure regulator from what Ive read, but maybe I missed something
That's a pretty long crank. If it was only say 3+ seconds like my Cherokee is would you still think fuel pump or maybe something else? My 96 XJ pretty much cranks right up but the ZJ takes 3 seconds or a tad more
Check your codes, many different things can cause a long crank. Once I had a battery that was going bad causing it. I had a bad computer do it. Your Crank sensor or your Voltage coil could also be failing. The computer checks different thinks on start up if something is not right it will keep it from starting as a safety issue.
If it’s about this long and not a fuel pressure issue, there will hopefully be codes from the last time it ran. If you have a tach, make sure it’s showing cranking speed. If not, it’s probably not seeing a crank signal. In that case, it will use the cam signal and keep trying to fire cylinder One till it fires and then one and five. Once it can get one and five to fire in the right order, it knows where the crank is and can run the motor. With a crank but no cam signal, it just has to figure out where the cam is, which will happen faster. Both scenarios may start faster than the fuel system with no pressure at the beginning.
Mine was doing the same thing but it's because when I replaced the exhaust manifold, i accidentally disconnected a wire that goes into a little block right by the airbox
I have the same problem, the engine does not start until after the fourth attempt, and I checked the fuel pressure after the engine is running, it is stable at 60 and when the engine is turned off, it drops to zero directly. What is the problem, what do I do Cherokee xj 2001
@@Donnythelatemodeltech By disconnecting the wire and it not firing the injector, it should help clear that cylinder of fuel unless it was leaking. I replaced my regulator on my Ford without disconnecting the battery and then I got a code about PIP sensor! I disconnected the battery cable to clean it and erase the memory and then that code went away! Dropping fuel pressure is either the pump, regulator, or injectors. Try injector cleaner to maybe clean injectors. BTW, Harbor Freight has a long floor jack to reach deep under cars and trucks. It has a foot-pedal to start it. I have a Actron CP9690 code tester for OBDI and OBDII. EBAY has it.
This thing uses a screwy pressure regulation setup. The way it works is it actually only keeps the pressure from getting too high. It lets fuel flow back to the tank past a certain pressure. If you’re losing all your prime, it’s gonna be the pump’s check ball. Especially on older cars. The additives in modern gasoline (which is really gasohol imo) destroys the material the check ball was originally made of.
@@slowpoke96Z28 I remember my jeep did start developing a long crank around the time my mechanic screwed with that ball. Is this a hard assembly to replace?
No misfires due to the bad pump. But it will misfire when it boils the fuel in the fuel rail. It usually only does this when using winter fuel. I've taken precautions to minimize it. Sheilding,venting and fan timer.
Where would you start the battery? I see no problem with his method, he may have not showed everything, but if you can't fill in the blanks take it to a shop and waste your money.
Nick Cellini he explained it. You just couldn’t hear him cause the mic was too weak. You could hear his daughter better almost lol. Do you have a specific question about what he did?
@@slowpoke96Z28 Most mechanics are horrible at explaining what is wrong and what they are doing to fix it. Its the way the mechanical mind works. Its the same for most math teachers ! There are certain things and certain lingo that they assume everyone understands. My mechanic friend stood in my garage and drank beer and walked me through the process of replacing the engine on my car. It took me 4 months but I did it. He now cant understand why I cant replace an engine on any car ever made. He does not understand that just because I performed this task I do not remember every aspect of it. That is incomprehensible to him. Without looking he knew the location and sizes of every nut, bolt, washer, clip, etc... heck I cant even remember the names of half the tools I used.
I recently change my fuel filter and pressure regulator, which is in one unit on my 2004 Jeep Grand Cherokee and when I blew on the new one the air when out pretty easily, but when I blew on the old one it was almost impossible to make the air go thru. My Jeep shut off in slow traffic but after the change, it has been running fine so far.
“It’s actually pretty clean for a piece of shit” 😂
i have a question, i am have the same issue but idk if it's the fuel pump or fuel pressure Reg? what you think should change the reg since it less a pain or just do the pump ?
Looks like the check valve in your fuel pump failed. Did you put a check valve in the fuel line or did you have to replace the fuel pump?
Did the pump
that watch is so big you can use it as buckler to deflect things
I like a crank that needs the pump to prime the system. Let’s oil pressure build before the engine really gets going. Extra wear on starter is worth longer engine life.
I guess I can see your point there lol
@@digitalchaos1980 manufacturing these days is so good that starters are well built enough to handle it, and "they" say the wear that happens when an engine first runs and the oil pump hasn't built up pressure and flow yet is a large amount of an engine's wear. So I figure it never hurts for oil to be flowing good before fuel is introduced to the engine in an amount high enough to start, even if that means an extra second or so of starter engagement.
Mine slowly kept taking longer to start before it wouldnt start at all. I changed crankshaft position sensor and spark plugs and still wont start. Gas is squirting from the fuel rail. Im about to have a Mechanic look at it. Dont know where to go from here but would love to have some assistance. As i like to fix things myself.
Your starter maybe? I had mine shorten out at the fuel injector driver/pulser inside the pcm ( mosfet transistor ) i opened mine up and found the problem but after a month of trying to find the part in random devices i almost had it but I eventually messed up on my pcm by the time i actually found the part number on ebay for the transistor mosfet I already torn up the layers of the circuit board so i just ordered a new pcm and it worked like a charm . I just needed to change my oil since it was full of gas and smoke was coming out the exhaust like a mf . So if you changed your head gasket and still have a similar problem as me first check your wires from the injectors to make sure they are all good if they are good with the pcm connector disconnected and not good with it connected then you probably need a new pcm. I figured i fucked mine up when i changed my valve cover gasket and 2 wires from my injectors touched ground or someshit. Btw the fuel injector transistor mosfet inside the pcm the thing that makes the injectors pulse the part number is mtd3055vl . 97 cherokee country 4.0 . I know its long but i hope someone in the future could find it helpful because i sure wish someone would of told me this exact problem which was only posted once by another dude on some forum but barly even explained it . Hope it made sense cuz im high asf
@@mobmob5944 as someone who's replaced a buttload of parts trying to source this problem. Can't rule anything out. Was thinking PCM might be a culprit myself given that regulates the fuel amounts. Thanks for the tip
What problems were you having with the Jeep that made you check your fuel pump?
Long cranking,
TheLateModelTech2.0 I have a 1997 Grand Cherokee. Just checked the fuel pressure and it’s reading 42 psi. I think spec say 45-54 psi. Would my psi cause it to stall? It stays at 42psi with the throttle down.
probably not, is the jeep stalling out? or just taking a long time to crank up and start? bad check valve are super common on these guys...
Thanks for the video dude. I have a long crank issue too.
Replaced the fuel pump and all of the individual fuel injectors too with Bosch products. Long crank still won't go away.
Is there anywhere else on the fuel line other than the pump assembly where you could be losing fuel pressure?
same problem here. I wonder if there is a problem with the filter check valve??
I just installed a one way check valve in the fuel line back near the tank. It keeps the fuel in the line and stops it from bleeding back into the tank. Problem solved.
Everything I’ve read about long start implies it’s the check valve, and the fix is to relocate it outside the tanj
Have you checked fuel pump regulator?
@@kodiak7438 if I'm not mistaken, the 97+ Cherokees include that as part of the fuel pump assembly on top of the tank. No separate fuel pressure regulator from what Ive read, but maybe I missed something
That's a pretty long crank. If it was only say 3+ seconds like my Cherokee is would you still think fuel pump or maybe something else? My 96 XJ pretty much cranks right up but the ZJ takes 3 seconds or a tad more
I had the same problem with a 2000 grand cherokee, and it turned out to be the fuel pressure regulator!!
Can we clean the fuel pressure regulator valve and put it back?
@@minnus222 No, the diaphragm is bad. You need a new one.
any suggestions if the fuel pressure check is good and there is still a long crank start?
Crank and or cam position sensor
Check your codes, many different things can cause a long crank. Once I had a battery that was going bad causing it. I had a bad computer do it. Your Crank sensor or your Voltage coil could also be failing. The computer checks different thinks on start up if something is not right it will keep it from starting as a safety issue.
If it’s about this long and not a fuel pressure issue, there will hopefully be codes from the last time it ran. If you have a tach, make sure it’s showing cranking speed. If not, it’s probably not seeing a crank signal. In that case, it will use the cam signal and keep trying to fire cylinder One till it fires and then one and five. Once it can get one and five to fire in the right order, it knows where the crank is and can run the motor. With a crank but no cam signal, it just has to figure out where the cam is, which will happen faster. Both scenarios may start faster than the fuel system with no pressure at the beginning.
my 96 xj kinda does the same thing but it takes 3-5 cranks to start and I did a fresh tune up and fuel filter what else could be the problem
Matt, you gotta check the fuel pressure first.
I have no fuel pressure and I just replaced the fuel pump and it still doesn't start please help I need it running asap
Check fuses & relays, also power to the pump.
Tapped the valve, no squirt. Having to crank it 2 sometimes 3 times to start. Pump or what?
I saw a video on this where the guy did the same thing you did and all he did was relocate the check valve to the outside of the tank
Question
My Jeep turns on quick but it won’t stay on it turns off like in 40 seconds what can it be.
Mine was doing the same thing but it's because when I replaced the exhaust manifold, i accidentally disconnected a wire that goes into a little block right by the airbox
I have the same problem, the engine does not start until after the fourth attempt, and I checked the fuel pressure after the engine is running, it is stable at 60 and when the engine is turned off, it drops to zero directly. What is the problem, what do I do Cherokee xj 2001
You do this ruclips.net/video/nloXdvJmiy4/видео.html
I have this same problem but i just got a new fuel pump what should i look at next
Did you test the fuel pressure?
How would i do that?
@@katitlinneeg5408 bruh
What year is this Jeep? Did you confirm what the fuel pressure is supposed to be?
40psi
Were you able to install a check valve high up on the line before the injector rail, and if so, did it work?
It’s better to put it down the other end near the fuel tank, that way all the fuel doesn’t run all the way out of the fuel line.
It shouldn’t matter where you put the valve,unless fuel is being lost at the rail or injectors
If the fuel injector is leaking badly and you disconnect the wire going to it, would that help start a car with a leaky injector?
Probably not
@@Donnythelatemodeltech By disconnecting the wire and it not firing the injector, it should help clear that cylinder of fuel unless it was leaking. I replaced my regulator on my Ford without disconnecting the battery and then I got a code about PIP sensor! I disconnected the battery cable to clean it and erase the memory and then that code went away! Dropping fuel pressure is either the pump, regulator, or injectors. Try injector cleaner to maybe clean injectors. BTW, Harbor Freight has a long floor jack to reach deep under cars and trucks. It has a foot-pedal to start it. I have a Actron CP9690 code tester for OBDI and OBDII. EBAY has it.
What year did jeep make a cherokee wrangler model?
Hes showing what models it works on dork
Mine cranks this long it’s a 98 cherokee 2 door
All if them will have this.
Looks like your pump is good but your fuel pressure regulator is bad.
brassclaw1 what problems you’d you have if your pressure wasn’t holding?
This thing uses a screwy pressure regulation setup. The way it works is it actually only keeps the pressure from getting too high. It lets fuel flow back to the tank past a certain pressure. If you’re losing all your prime, it’s gonna be the pump’s check ball. Especially on older cars. The additives in modern gasoline (which is really gasohol imo) destroys the material the check ball was originally made of.
@@slowpoke96Z28 I remember my jeep did start developing a long crank around the time my mechanic screwed with that ball. Is this a hard assembly to replace?
@@k3x7z usually its built into the pump itself.
Im having the same problem i just changed the fuel pump what could it be.
Leaking injector
You get a missfire af all with the bad pump?
No misfires due to the bad pump. But it will misfire when it boils the fuel in the fuel rail. It usually only does this when using winter fuel. I've taken precautions to minimize it. Sheilding,venting and fan timer.
Thanks for the quick reply!! And I was just wondering because my jeep has a long crank issue and a sputter will lower power at bottom end
What can it be if I have smoke from Throttlebody
Possibly a lot of crank case vapor, look In pcv system
what's the song in the intro?
Xx- intro
@@johnnytran777 cool thx
What was wrong?
Fuel pressure bleeding off at the pump"check valve"
Did you fix It?
@@josetrejo3427 yes sir. It starts right up at the end of the video.
Oh Thanks hadn’t seen there was a second part
Bro fuel came out 👁👄👁 of the fuel testing port
Solid evidence that there is a huge gap between being a good mechanic, and a good video producer.
Thanks for Watching!
Lol
You've got no idea what you're doing.
💯 💰 Gary
Where would you start the battery? I see no problem with his method, he may have not showed everything, but if you can't fill in the blanks take it to a shop and waste your money.
Typical mechanic. Diagnoses the problem and fixes it, but cant explain what he is doing worth a shit !
Nick Cellini he explained it. You just couldn’t hear him cause the mic was too weak. You could hear his daughter better almost lol. Do you have a specific question about what he did?
@@slowpoke96Z28 Most mechanics are horrible at explaining what is wrong and what they are doing to fix it. Its the way the mechanical mind works. Its the same for most math teachers ! There are certain things and certain lingo that they assume everyone understands. My mechanic friend stood in my garage and drank beer and walked me through the process of replacing the engine on my car. It took me 4 months but I did it. He now cant understand why I cant replace an engine on any car ever made. He does not understand that just because I performed this task I do not remember every aspect of it. That is incomprehensible to him. Without looking he knew the location and sizes of every nut, bolt, washer, clip, etc... heck I cant even remember the names of half the tools I used.