Hi Marcus - you really need to fit air filters if you want an engine to last. Dust essentially shot blasts the bores & pistons + gums up with oil, creating grinding paste.
Hard start cold could be low compression, entirely possible as you don't run air filters, vac line to regulator is to help prevent lean condition when under load. Looks like ester needs a fresh restoration.
Nice video mate 👍🏻 Carbon fibre heater bubble from Gary is waiting to be fit I think 😊. Can’t wait for the winter videos as you will be working on all 3 you need to clone yourself mate you got a lot to do but it’s going to be worth it mate keep up the good work pal 👍🏻👍🏻
Starter solenoid stud is loose, it is supposed to be fitted with a half nut tightened, and then the lead eyelet and then the nut tightened to that. If it's fitted without the half nut, you can overtighten the securing nut, causing damage to the starter....
@@marcushayesford you do a great job of showing an honest person home building the early escorts, I really enjoy watching and will continue just squint when I see the carbon lol but that’s your touch I guess 👍👌
The Tran X and quafe spin wheels in same direction and that play isn't normal. Even under no load. I would say plates have worn out or needs adjustment. I checked my car. Those St170 engines are what 20 years old anyway and have probably already had a hard life, and you drive them hard and have modified them. So a rebuild will sort out the issues. Still enjoying the videos.
Id deffo say needs the diff done The pinion lash is way to much Id say need resetting i wonder if u snapped a shaft an it has spun the adjuster on side again Love the car an content so far Both projects going well
Thanks for the advice! 👍 Really hope I havn't snapped a shaft. Im pretty sure I would notice it pulling to one side if I had??? Esther's shafts are proper beefy ones (unlike the uprated ones I snapped in 'Maude' before)
@hoggmotorsport Id defo notice if it had a snapped shaft. When Iv snapped shafts in the past I have either been unable to drive the car, OR it would pull to one side when I accelerate. Im guessing Esther's Blackline LSD is a geared one rather than a plated one (and this is why the drivers side wheel spun backwards when I spun the passenger side wheel forwrads) 👍
Hi when you are doing the heater bubble and work in the bay. Will you be fitting them corner stenghing plates and dimp dye on the front panel. To add strength in the panel. When you are doing the rear axle strengthing. Will you be fitting 6 linked to it?
I very much doubt I’ll be doing all that extra stuff in the engine bay, but you never know. Sometimes I get carried away! 😀 . . . . I defo have no plans to 6 link the rear end. 👍
@@marcushayesford look for the wheeler dealer episode with the brown mk1 escort, it’s an old one but I’m sure in that episode Edd china did the lash on it’s diff and he shows you how he did it himself, Im sure it’s that one
Yes I vaguely remember him showing the process in that video. Iv had a go at setting up a diff before (a welded one for 'Maude') so I'll have to remind myself the process. 👍
I have that exact same 18T diff to put in mine. Spoke to a company to get it installed and they reckon after a short while it would act like a open diff. They eluded to the cost of the diff plates £45 approx so were saying it wouldnt last. They tried pushing me towards the ATB blackline one which im undecided about.
Yes ATBs are apparently fit and forget mate. I really like how aggressive plated diffs are though (admittedly they get less aggressive as they wear) ‘Esther’ still goes sideways so I assumed the plates still had life in them. We’ll find out when I take it apart. Maybe Esther’s Blackline is actually an ATB one?? I remember when I first fitted it that it was slightly more progressive when it locks up, compared to Maude’s Tran-X Plated. Still aggressive enough for a fun road car. 👍
@@marcushayesfordyou bought the ultimate rear end package from RF so comes with a rebuild kit, lsd and h/d half shafts. That initial package when you had it was the plated diff as i was looking at it at the time. Soon after they put a disclaimer on the website saying this lsd comes without warranty as they must have had a few back with issues. If you notice, blackline have released another plated lsd unit which is meant to be a upgrade version with Atlas side gears and marketed as a h/d unit.
I might be able to get a solenoid from an auto electrics company that I know. Id like to think that stud just has a nut on the inside of it?? So maybe if I dismantle it I'll be able to fix it. For now though I'll just keep driving the car and keep my fingers crossed! 🤞
The differential is supposed to turn opposite ways when there's no load. The whole purpose of a diff is to allow the wheels to rotate at different speeds. If it broke there would be no drive at all and if it was internally loose it would jam up and lock the wheels solid. The banging in my opinion is the gearbox mount or an engine mount.
I always thought Esther’s diff was a plated type. If it’s a helical one then maybe the wheels spinning different directions isn’t actually an issue. If it’s a plated one then maybe it needs new plates. 👍
Hi Marcus I know you like doing things in a kind of unconventional way .I would have deffo done the wet test even though your stripping the bottom end it could have been useful to know that info there are reasons why a trained mechanic would do it but your deffo not trained but you have to admire your can do attitude which I find an inspiration lol😊
Thanks for the advice and the positivity mate! 👍 The wet test I did last time made the numbers come up a lot, so Im pretty sure the rings are worn (which Im guessing would explain the blue smoke??)
Wouldn't be a carbon bubble would it mate?? 🤔😉 Yeah rear diff definitely needs checking over, don't think its backlash as you would check that roughly by rocking the prop for free play, pinion gear against crownwheel teeth, when you took all the free play up in the diff by the wheel the prop only rocked slightly, and it works exactly as you described. Plugs could mean its running too rich, but if there's oil being drawn up into the combustion chamber and burnt..hence the blue smoke..it could be from that too! Loads to do over winter mate, some awesome content to come 👍
@ the vacuum will also reduce the fuel pressure which might help the rich condition at cruise and low load. Not sure how they are set up factory though
The cylinder head is relatively new and was rebuilt by one of the best in the business A.L Developments. . . . . . . But we'll see when I rip the lump apart. 👍
Hi Marcus - you really need to fit air filters if you want an engine to last. Dust essentially shot blasts the bores & pistons + gums up with oil, creating grinding paste.
Leaf spring stud snapped and the back axle is moving under load when you pull away..
Hard start cold could be low compression, entirely possible as you don't run air filters, vac line to regulator is to help prevent lean condition when under load. Looks like ester needs a fresh restoration.
Mate im lovin these videos helps me de-stress from the bullshit here, my cars are my life so thanks for the inspiration, take care..
Dimple dying those holes in the front panel would stiffen it up a bit
Only where the holes are. If you want to make metal rock solid you burn it cherry red and dunk it in oil.
You may have to hold an auction for Maude 😂
Nice video mate 👍🏻
Carbon fibre heater bubble from Gary is waiting to be fit I think 😊. Can’t wait for the winter videos as you will be working on all 3 you need to clone yourself mate you got a lot to do but it’s going to be worth it mate keep up the good work pal 👍🏻👍🏻
It's defo going to be a busy winter. . . . . . and 'Esther' will defo be getting some more carbon! 😃
Starter solenoid stud is loose, it is supposed to be fitted with a half nut tightened, and then the lead eyelet and then the nut tightened to that. If it's fitted without the half nut, you can overtighten the securing nut, causing damage to the starter....
Thanks for the advice mate! 👍 So should the half nut be on the outside??? Just underneath the actual thick red wire???
@@marcushayesford Yes, half nut on the stud followed by the battery terminal follwoed by a full nut
@ Cool. I couldn’t really see as I was running out of light. Hopefully the half nut is still there, and this should be a quick fix. 🤞
At least the smoke is color coordinated with Esther 😢
😃
Thank you marcus excellent work.
Thanks for watching mate! 👍
All the carbon fibre looks janky kills the look of the car love your videos just my opinion
Each to their own. Glad you enjoy the videos mate! 👍
@@marcushayesford you do a great job of showing an honest person home building the early escorts, I really enjoy watching and will continue just squint when I see the carbon lol but that’s your touch I guess 👍👌
The Tran X and quafe spin wheels in same direction and that play isn't normal. Even under no load. I would say plates have worn out or needs adjustment. I checked my car. Those St170 engines are what 20 years old anyway and have probably already had a hard life, and you drive them hard and have modified them. So a rebuild will sort out the issues. Still enjoying the videos.
Glad you enjoy the videos mate! 👍 Thanks for the advice. 👍
Once you get the paint work done on Esther you should get part or full PPF for her
To be honest I'll probably do the paintwork myself with the 2K rattle cans, so not sure if the finish will deserve PPF. 😃
@marcushayesford as long as it looks shiny and decent which am sure it will definitely deserve ppf
The reason you engine is not lasting very long is that you have no air filters on it the rings will wear out very quickly
Id deffo say needs the diff done
The pinion lash is way to much
Id say need resetting i wonder if u snapped a shaft an it has spun the adjuster on side again
Love the car an content so far
Both projects going well
Thanks for the advice! 👍 Really hope I havn't snapped a shaft. Im pretty sure I would notice it pulling to one side if I had??? Esther's shafts are proper beefy ones (unlike the uprated ones I snapped in 'Maude' before)
I doubt it would be a snapped shaft, as you spun one wheel the other turned, wouldn't do this if one was snapped 👍
@hoggmotorsport Id defo notice if it had a snapped shaft. When Iv snapped shafts in the past I have either been unable to drive the car, OR it would pull to one side when I accelerate. Im guessing Esther's Blackline LSD is a geared one rather than a plated one (and this is why the drivers side wheel spun backwards when I spun the passenger side wheel forwrads) 👍
Hi when you are doing the heater bubble and work in the bay. Will you be fitting them corner stenghing plates and dimp dye on the front panel. To add strength in the panel. When you are doing the rear axle strengthing. Will you be fitting 6 linked to it?
I very much doubt I’ll be doing all that extra stuff in the engine bay, but you never know. Sometimes I get carried away! 😀 . . . . I defo have no plans to 6 link the rear end. 👍
Those rusty bolts holding the quarter-bumpers on are an eyesore!!!!
Iv had new bolts for those for aaaages, but I never get round to changing them! 😃
A little bit of blue smoke never hurt anyone. 😏
Im just glad that it SEEMS like the smoke isn't fuel related. . . . Doesn't explain the black plugs tho??? 🤔
The lash between the pinion and crown gear needs set up right, you have to much movement between prop and the wheels turning
Thanks for the advice. Thats exactly what I thought. 👍
@@marcushayesford look for the wheeler dealer episode with the brown mk1 escort, it’s an old one but I’m sure in that episode Edd china did the lash on it’s diff and he shows you how he did it himself, Im sure it’s that one
Yes I vaguely remember him showing the process in that video. Iv had a go at setting up a diff before (a welded one for 'Maude') so I'll have to remind myself the process. 👍
@@marcushayesfordit will be the same process and the same lb/nm for either welded, open or limited slip, as it’s the crown wheel to pinion gear
I have that exact same 18T diff to put in mine. Spoke to a company to get it installed and they reckon after a short while it would act like a open diff.
They eluded to the cost of the diff plates £45 approx so were saying it wouldnt last.
They tried pushing me towards the ATB blackline one which im undecided about.
Yes ATBs are apparently fit and forget mate. I really like how aggressive plated diffs are though (admittedly they get less aggressive as they wear) ‘Esther’ still goes sideways so I assumed the plates still had life in them. We’ll find out when I take it apart. Maybe Esther’s Blackline is actually an ATB one?? I remember when I first fitted it that it was slightly more progressive when it locks up, compared to Maude’s Tran-X Plated. Still aggressive enough for a fun road car. 👍
@@marcushayesfordyou bought the ultimate rear end package from RF so comes with a rebuild kit, lsd and h/d half shafts.
That initial package when you had it was the plated diff as i was looking at it at the time.
Soon after they put a disclaimer on the website saying this lsd comes without warranty as they must have had a few back with issues.
If you notice, blackline have released another plated lsd unit which is meant to be a upgrade version with Atlas side gears and marketed as a h/d unit.
Wonder if u could just buy a solinoid for mord
Nice to see it out again
I might be able to get a solenoid from an auto electrics company that I know. Id like to think that stud just has a nut on the inside of it?? So maybe if I dismantle it I'll be able to fix it. For now though I'll just keep driving the car and keep my fingers crossed! 🤞
Diff is could be broken, do you have a plate diff or a helical type, a helical can allow the opposite wheel to turn the wrong way
The differential is supposed to turn opposite ways when there's no load. The whole purpose of a diff is to allow the wheels to rotate at different speeds. If it broke there would be no drive at all and if it was internally loose it would jam up and lock the wheels solid. The banging in my opinion is the gearbox mount or an engine mount.
I always thought Esther’s diff was a plated type. If it’s a helical one then maybe the wheels spinning different directions isn’t actually an issue. If it’s a plated one then maybe it needs new plates. 👍
Hi Marcus I know you like doing things in a kind of unconventional way .I would have deffo done the wet test even though your stripping the bottom end it could have been useful to know that info there are reasons why a trained mechanic would do it but your deffo not trained but you have to admire your can do attitude which I find an inspiration lol😊
Thanks for the advice and the positivity mate! 👍 The wet test I did last time made the numbers come up a lot, so Im pretty sure the rings are worn (which Im guessing would explain the blue smoke??)
Wouldn't be a carbon bubble would it mate?? 🤔😉
Yeah rear diff definitely needs checking over, don't think its backlash as you would check that roughly by rocking the prop for free play, pinion gear against crownwheel teeth, when you took all the free play up in the diff by the wheel the prop only rocked slightly, and it works exactly as you described.
Plugs could mean its running too rich, but if there's oil being drawn up into the combustion chamber and burnt..hence the blue smoke..it could be from that too!
Loads to do over winter mate, some awesome content to come 👍
Thanks for the advice mate! 👍
Can i please ask what size of injectors do you use. I am fitting a st170 engine with throttle bodies and just want a starting point thanks
@@stephenbradley5805 I’m using stock ST170 ones mate. 👍
new heater bubble is 100% gonna be carbon
Blue smoke = burning oil = piston blow by = oily plugs = air filters are for wimps” doesn’t help…?
Should the fuel pressure regulator have vacuum connected?
Apparently not mate. I think in turbo applications you would have a vacuum hooked up to increase fuel pressure as boost increases. 👍
@ the vacuum will also reduce the fuel pressure which might help the rich condition at cruise and low load. Not sure how they are set up factory though
New bubble carbon fibre
🤔
Remember the heater bubble is made from smegma and fairy juice but i think yours might be carbon fibre.
Valve seals
The cylinder head is relatively new and was rebuilt by one of the best in the business A.L Developments. . . . . . . But we'll see when I rip the lump apart. 👍
Gotta be a rubber bubble. You love rubber......
Id stop throwing money at the ford engines... decent redtops arnt too expensive ;)
20hp less too.. 150hp vs 170hp...
@R6AAO but alot cheaper to extract power from...
Or a Saab turbo
Elon Musk plugs......the richest i have ever seen.