I've watched over a dozen of build videos and this method seems to be the best as far as assembly but also longevity. I believe the last shot in the video answered my only question - is the view from the street just the privacy and no chainlink? So many of these videos show the chainlink around the perimeter from street view which I feel like takes away from the curb appeal. I believe the privacy was the street view in your case - yes?
Yes, I put the "nice" side of the fence toward the public and neighbors. The backside of the wood fence structure and chain-link is viewable from my garden. You can see it at the beginning of this video: ruclips.net/video/5fTyS12_ttM/видео.html&ab_channel=MaximumIndustries
Very nice! I'm thinking of doing this... though I have a 9-foot wide double-door fence gate (4' + 5' doors). I'm wondering how to go about this as I fear the added weight of the wood would be too much over time for the hinges
Homedepot - Lowes - Menards or your local lumber supplier :) Ask them when they will start receiving dog ear fence panels for the season - when they come in fresh from the plant they are fully saturated - "wet".
@ Thank you for your response. I didn’t know that I could get them wet from Homedepot and thought specific places sell them like that. I have the exact same length chain link in my backyard.
@@ak_fha_t Yea if you get them later in the season when they've been sitting there a while and they've dried out, then you have to mind gapping your boards.
As long at you're using galvanized nails it will last. Its works and still stand, not a single piece has come off in the storms we've had since! I staggered the rails because I was too lazy to cut them to the right size and put them all in line lol. Thanks! Good luck with your endeavors! :)
I've been hearing it's a good idea to leave gaps in between the pickets to allow the wood to swell when it rains. Otherwise warping or bowing can occur.
Because I bought them "wet" fresh from the factory you don't need to space them, as they dry out they will shrink and create those gaps. Then in the wet seasons if they soak up water and expand its not an issue because they won't expand to their full original size. If you buy dry boards I would space them 1/16 or 1/8 based on appearance you're going for.
Lol not issues, but I have some lessons learned! I finished fencing my whole yard and did some things different, I need to go back and redo this section of the fence when the summer is over. I should probably make a short video on what I'm about to write. Those metal straps on the metal bolts DO NEED TO GO ON the backside where the nuts go, I did keep them and I went back to reinstall them. Otherwise, I was using bradnails because that is what I had available, you are supposed to use ringschank nails. You DONT need the tap cons if you use ringschanks. Don't be lazy like me and cut the 2x4s so they lay half and half over the 2x6s in a straight line, the over under style I did was just because I didn't want to cut the wood. Set your end/corner pieces and hang a string line BEFORE installing the panels to make sure the tops are nice and inline, don't eye ball them like I did this section lol. It turned out alright, wife is happy, but with 20% more effort it would have been almost professional. Good luck and happy hunting!
I did an extension on my 4ft height chain link fence with t post and welded wire, but the city tell me I have to remove it I guess I'm not allowed to do it, so that's why I'm watching this video I have to do something like u did :(
Just attached the wood to the metal post using "U" bolts. I did no concrete work. The chain link post is already concreted into the ground. Good luck!@@RobiPerk0125
If you mean smooth side to be the pickets, they are facing out towards the neighbors, the 2x4 structure is towards my property. Yes! I know all my neighbors and cleared it with them before proceeding. Honestly, they were all just worried I was going to ask for money, but they were happy I was going to put in free privacy fencing. Charged them nothing and did all the work myself. Thanks!
No sir, the existing fence line posts were concreted into the ground and are solid. I did have to straighten them a little using "percussive persuasion" due to some misalignment from trees around the property having fallen and damaged them previously. But no wobble. Happy hunting!
Great video. I want to copy. I have some questions. Is there a reason you should keep the chain link fence in? I understand obviously keeping the poles what about the chain link. Also privacy fence posts are suggested to be 8ft apart. These are around 9-10 ft. Do you think the smaller 1.5 posts will hold up against the wind for a long period of time? Thank you in advance!
@@gabrielmonreal9171 Yes! I kept the chain link fence because in my area if you attach a privacy screen to an existing fence and do no excavation it requires no permit or inspections. Otherwise, it is significantly less expensive to reuse the existing line posts than to pull them and replace with new. I kept the chain link simply because it acts as an additional deterrent to keep animals out, and to keep the our dog from trying to escape! Correct, if you are installing new, I would suggest 8 foot on center post spacing. Mine are anywhere from 8 to 12 apart but it does not appear to be an issue for the weight, nothing wobbles even in high winds. The smaller line posts for my fence are also 1.5 inch, so this should not be an issue. No worries and good luck!
Good question Kitty. Reason is when you buy fresh/wet pressure treated panels they are already at their maximum size. I wish I could post a photo here in the comments but now that they have dried out as we go into summer, they have skinny gaps between them from contraction/drying. Best is to buy fresh/wet and not have to measure for gaps. If you buy later in the season and the boards are dry, look up the recommended gapping. Hope this helps!
Everything was about $1200, but I did 200 linear feet with 8-10 foot spans between posts. That price includes the 2x6, the cross bars, fence pickets, mounting hardware, nails, screws and a string line. Fence was existing and unmodified.
Hello, Nice job. Did you have any issues with wood spliting with the nailer and would you have drilled a pilot hole and used screws instead
No issues with the nailer or wood splitting. You could pre drill and screw it is just a lot more work.
I've watched over a dozen of build videos and this method seems to be the best as far as assembly but also longevity. I believe the last shot in the video answered my only question - is the view from the street just the privacy and no chainlink? So many of these videos show the chainlink around the perimeter from street view which I feel like takes away from the curb appeal. I believe the privacy was the street view in your case - yes?
Yes, I put the "nice" side of the fence toward the public and neighbors. The backside of the wood fence structure and chain-link is viewable from my garden. You can see it at the beginning of this video: ruclips.net/video/5fTyS12_ttM/видео.html&ab_channel=MaximumIndustries
@@MaximumIndustries thank you for the clarification. Again - fantastic video!
Any recommendations about how to install over a chain link gate? Thanks!
Very nice! I'm thinking of doing this... though I have a 9-foot wide double-door fence gate (4' + 5' doors). I'm wondering how to go about this as I fear the added weight of the wood would be too much over time for the hinges
Hmm...the added weight would concern me too...what about lighter weight plastic privacy slats painted to match?
Just saw this and plan on doing something similar. Where did you find U Bolts long enough for the fence posts?
Any big box store will usually carry them :) If you need special ones just look online!
Great job. Thanks. Do you know where I can buy wet treated pickets from?
Homedepot - Lowes - Menards or your local lumber supplier :) Ask them when they will start receiving dog ear fence panels for the season - when they come in fresh from the plant they are fully saturated - "wet".
@ Thank you for your response. I didn’t know that I could get them wet from Homedepot and thought specific places sell them like that. I have the exact same length chain link in my backyard.
@@ak_fha_t Yea if you get them later in the season when they've been sitting there a while and they've dried out, then you have to mind gapping your boards.
I would love to see the side that’s facing your house.
Too bad youtube doesn't let you comment pictures :)
A Brad nailer? Won’t the nails corrode? What type of screws did you use for the rails? And why did you stagger the rails? Looks good by the way.
As long at you're using galvanized nails it will last. Its works and still stand, not a single piece has come off in the storms we've had since! I staggered the rails because I was too lazy to cut them to the right size and put them all in line lol. Thanks! Good luck with your endeavors! :)
I've been hearing it's a good idea to leave gaps in between the pickets to allow the wood to swell when it rains. Otherwise warping or bowing can occur.
yes and no depending how wet the treated lumber is when installed because it will dry and shrink. same concept as wood deck boards
@@SCS2694 makes sense, thanks!
Well done
I’m contemplating to do this. Is that fenced is not gonna be affected by weather change since you didn’t space the pickets?
Because I bought them "wet" fresh from the factory you don't need to space them, as they dry out they will shrink and create those gaps. Then in the wet seasons if they soak up water and expand its not an issue because they won't expand to their full original size. If you buy dry boards I would space them 1/16 or 1/8 based on appearance you're going for.
Good looking fence. I will be using this method for a weekend project. Have you had any issues?
Lol not issues, but I have some lessons learned! I finished fencing my whole yard and did some things different, I need to go back and redo this section of the fence when the summer is over. I should probably make a short video on what I'm about to write. Those metal straps on the metal bolts DO NEED TO GO ON the backside where the nuts go, I did keep them and I went back to reinstall them. Otherwise, I was using bradnails because that is what I had available, you are supposed to use ringschank nails. You DONT need the tap cons if you use ringschanks. Don't be lazy like me and cut the 2x4s so they lay half and half over the 2x6s in a straight line, the over under style I did was just because I didn't want to cut the wood. Set your end/corner pieces and hang a string line BEFORE installing the panels to make sure the tops are nice and inline, don't eye ball them like I did this section lol. It turned out alright, wife is happy, but with 20% more effort it would have been almost professional. Good luck and happy hunting!
Great advice, thanks!
Looks awesome! Would you need a permit to do something like this?
Not in my city since the fence it was attached to was already in place. Check with your local municipality for fencing guidelines! :)
Did you use treated 2x4's?
Yes! Worth the little bit extra to make sure it lasts.
curious if you leveled your 2x6's that are attached to the chain link fence posts?
I'm allowed only a 6 foot fence, so I cut them to length and made sure they stood true following the grade of the property and adjusting as needed.
How did you do your corners with your 2×6's?
One 2x6 and one 2x4 with a series of screws to join them at right angles =]
I did an extension on my 4ft height chain link fence with t post and welded wire, but the city tell me I have to remove it I guess I'm not allowed to do it, so that's why I'm watching this video I have to do something like u did :(
Yea, have them provide you with the city guidelines for fence restrictions. I'm not allowed fencing in my front yard...so the deer eat my plants...
@@MaximumIndustries haha... U just attached the wood post with the chain link post? Or in top of that u used concrete in the wood post?
Just attached the wood to the metal post using "U" bolts. I did no concrete work. The chain link post is already concreted into the ground. Good luck!@@RobiPerk0125
@@MaximumIndustries what about the existing chain link gate???
@@RobiPerk0125 Ah I didn't have one in the areas I was fencing. You'll have to get a little creative ;)
How has it held up
Excellently!
The smooth side is facing your property correct? Did you talk to your neighbor, we’re they ok with it? Looks great!
If you mean smooth side to be the pickets, they are facing out towards the neighbors, the 2x4 structure is towards my property. Yes! I know all my neighbors and cleared it with them before proceeding. Honestly, they were all just worried I was going to ask for money, but they were happy I was going to put in free privacy fencing. Charged them nothing and did all the work myself. Thanks!
Any issues with wind and fence wobble?
No sir, the existing fence line posts were concreted into the ground and are solid. I did have to straighten them a little using "percussive persuasion" due to some misalignment from trees around the property having fallen and damaged them previously. But no wobble. Happy hunting!
Great video. I want to copy. I have some questions.
Is there a reason you should keep the chain link fence in? I understand obviously keeping the poles what about the chain link.
Also privacy fence posts are suggested to be 8ft apart. These are around 9-10 ft. Do you think the smaller 1.5 posts will hold up against the wind for a long period of time?
Thank you in advance!
@@gabrielmonreal9171 Yes! I kept the chain link fence because in my area if you attach a privacy screen to an existing fence and do no excavation it requires no permit or inspections. Otherwise, it is significantly less expensive to reuse the existing line posts than to pull them and replace with new. I kept the chain link simply because it acts as an additional deterrent to keep animals out, and to keep the our dog from trying to escape!
Correct, if you are installing new, I would suggest 8 foot on center post spacing. Mine are anywhere from 8 to 12 apart but it does not appear to be an issue for the weight, nothing wobbles even in high winds. The smaller line posts for my fence are also 1.5 inch, so this should not be an issue.
No worries and good luck!
Why didn't you leave any space between fence panels? You know it's gonna expand/contract a little.
Good question Kitty. Reason is when you buy fresh/wet pressure treated panels they are already at their maximum size. I wish I could post a photo here in the comments but now that they have dried out as we go into summer, they have skinny gaps between them from contraction/drying. Best is to buy fresh/wet and not have to measure for gaps. If you buy later in the season and the boards are dry, look up the recommended gapping. Hope this helps!
@@MaximumIndustries We put up 6' cedar panels yesterday and just use a few coins as spacers.
I know nobody is gonna listen to some LGBT loser on RUclips 🤡
@@kittyberg9988what's the reason behind the little space in between panels??? It is necessary??
Plum!
😍😍😍
how much u spend ?
Everything was about $1200, but I did 200 linear feet with 8-10 foot spans between posts. That price includes the 2x6, the cross bars, fence pickets, mounting hardware, nails, screws and a string line. Fence was existing and unmodified.