This is a first class vid. Good volume, lighting and smooth camera work. Lists the number and size of mounting nuts that most people omitt. Very good all around. 10/10.
Awesome! Quick and to the point and some incredible camera work along with great dexterity. I can't imagine keeping a good camera shot while you popped that pin in that holds the pushrod in place....
Mine is a 2003 F150 FX4. I've owned it since 2004. I'm a big dude too...6'2" and was able to get under the dash fairly easy all things considered. A few things to add. My stock dust boot was big....maybe 3.5" across and mounted on the outside of the firewall. I used a 3/8 drive 12mm deep socket to remove the 4 nuts under the dash. A 1/4" drive deep 12mm socket was too short. Mine did not have that green cover over the clip pin. In the engine compartment, I removed the two 8mm bolts that hold the little black item just above the booster. It was very easy to remove the booster and master cylinder with that item out of the way. Otherwise, you might break the vacuum hose fitting on the bottom of that item and have to replace that too. Also, my master cylinder seized to the booster so I had to take it out as a complete unit. Good vid!!
Ok so while changing mine out, I strongly recommend you remove the lower panel on your dash and use a 3ft extension ratchet to take out the bolts. They wont be on too tight however if you're a big guy you'll need to tilt the steering wheel all the way up and move the driver's seat all the way back for you'll need to be upside down under the wheel to reach to the back. The upper bolts are more difficult. Getting out the pin to release the arm from the pedal arm isn't easy also. You'll see the plastic bushing pop out too. Reaching up under by feel or having someone skinny do this job would work better. Also on a 2003 f150 XLT 2WD it will be 13mm deep well socket you'll need.
Ive been fortunate enough to never need to replace a booster or master cylinder.. til now. Much simpler than I was expecting. Now to figure out if its the booster or MC, thats gone out.
Your welcome thanks for the support. Don’t see to many of the late 80’s Grand Marquis or Crown Vic’s anymore on the roads. Power and luxury at its finest keep it running brother.
Did you come to find out that it wasn't the brake booster causing a fading pedal? I'm having the same problem and I'm thinking that there's possibly a bad batch of Master cylinders. I noticed that if I jab the pedal the brakes work fine but if I step on the pedal real easy, it'll go all the way to the floor.
I painted my booster so it doesn't rust. they do not come painted however it appears they have some coating on it but don't know if it prevents rusting.
I'm having the same problem I tested the master cylinder and it's fine I'm thinking of the booster or abs hydraulic unit I don't have the big module so a lil one.
Yeah it’s kinda hard to pinpoint the problem because it could be any of those three. The booster, master cylinder or abs module. If you end up replacing the module you may want to find one used or at the scrapyard because they want a fortune for a new one and you may need to get a scan tool that can run the abs module for bleeding.
I gota change mine out, do you have a video of putting in the new master cylinder also? these brake boosters rust over about 15 years and they cause vacuum pressure issues.
How did you know the booster was out ? Iv got a 2001 with brake issues. We first was thinking the master cylinder but started thinking it could be either possibly
@@mick5740 yep that is correct. If the pedal is sinking to the floor it could also be the abs control module if it’s equipped with abs. This is another common issue on theses trucks as they start to age.
@@BLUECOLLARGARAGE oh ok. Yes it’s a 2001 lariat 4x4. I guess we’ll start with the master cylinder and see what happens 🤷🏻♂️ any way to find out about the abs control module ? Thanks buddy
I know this is kind of old do you remember the measurements between the mounting studs? Every brake booster I have bought doesn't fit. The holes don't line up. My original part number is BRAKE BOOSTER YL34-2005-AA. When cross referenced the one you posted link to shows up but it doesn't fit.
Brake pedal was fading to the floor booster was not holding pressure so I must of had a leak somewhere. A lot of times these boosters rust overtime and start to leak.
It could be just double check the vacuum hose coming off the brake booster. Have you checked the hose back by the firewall that goes to the pcv valve underneath the plastic cowl cover I know it’s common for that hose to get dry rotted and collapse?
@@BLUECOLLARGARAGE I've replaced the breather hose and have a new pcv hose on the way. I even checked the emission lines from the egr valve and they looked good. Starting to wonder if it's the intake manifold gasket or faulty injector o-rings. Thanks for the heads 👆. Subbed.
@@jasonwilliams4390 hopefully that breather hose fixes it. You can always mix up some soapy water solution in a spray bottle and spray down the engine while it’s running and look for and bubbles developing on the hoses or especially around the intake. You can also use brake clean or carburetor cleaner just be very careful doing it this way since they are both flammable and lightly spray areas down and listen to the engine it should start to change rpm’s or cut out briefly once that fluid is sucked in if there’s a vacuum leak.
So I'll try to adjust the rear brakes again then see if I can bleed the abs module again as well. But I'm waiting on a abs to get pulled out from another pick up and this is a hydraulic abs unit not an electronic.
I don't believe that the brake booster was causing a fading pedal. You never explained why you thought the booster was bad. I'm assuming this did not solve your fading pedal problem?
You describe nothing about the symptoms except where you replied to one comment. I'm assuming you misdiagnosed the booster problem and that you had a defective master cylinder? Please respond
Originally my brake pedal was sinking to the floor while just sitting at stop lights. So first I checked to make sure I didn't have any leaks or lines that were going bad and bubbling up or calipers leaking they were all good so I figured it was my master cylinder had an internal leak and was leaking past the piston so I replaced that and it helped some but was still not right so I thought maybe it was the booster or abs module so I replaced the booster even though usually when a booster goes bad you get a hard stiff pedal but I gave it a shot and for some reason that pretty much solved the problem I'd say it's still not 100 percent but works for me when I get around to it I may replace the abs module if I can locate a used one from a nearby scrap yard because they are just to expensive to buy new
@@BLUECOLLARGARAGE I found your solution right here Watch "2001 Ford F150 ABS Pump & Module Replacement (Spongy Sinking Brake Pedal Fix)" on RUclips ruclips.net/video/KFnVe-u3zeM/видео.html
what issue were you having? On my 2004 explorer, I am having a very mushy brake pedal that goes real low to the floor before the breaks work. I think I'm going to do the master cylinder but wanted to know your issue with the brake booster. Thanks.
Mine pedal would slowly sink to the floor while sitting at a stop light. So I figured it was the master cylinder so I replaced that which helped out some but the pedal still didn't feel 100 percent. So I thought I'd just replace the booster and that seemed to fix the problem which was weird because normally when your booster is bad you'll have a hard stiff pedal which I didn't have.
@@BLUECOLLARGARAGE I am watching your video because My brakes did the same. I first got a bleed job because the fluid had never been flushed. I was hoping that would work since it was the cheapest option. I figured it was the master cyl. I had a master tech do the job where I work. he said " you have brakes now and it stops, but the power booster is bad.) which I thought was weird as I also thought the same as you did. these trucks must just be different for some reason. hopefully the booster fixes my brakes.
@@ryanbrockmiller1648 did booster fix it? I replaced my mc and sure enough still have same problem. The old mc had a leak at the back between cylinder and booster. Wondering if booster was damaged from the leak.
@@zachdavis2641 it did not fix the issue. I do have brakes now it is still squishy. I believe the problem is a bad abs unit. it is more then I can and want to do or spend the money to do at this time.
Thanks for the video but you failed to mention what to do when the brake booster is rust welding onto the master cylinder 🥲 lol took me over an hour to take out the MC
This is a first class vid. Good volume, lighting and smooth camera work. Lists the number and size of mounting nuts that most people omitt. Very good all around. 10/10.
Quite nice. A lot of motorists don't even know they have a brake booster.
Awesome! Quick and to the point and some incredible camera work along with great dexterity. I can't imagine keeping a good camera shot while you popped that pin in that holds the pushrod in place....
Mine is a 2003 F150 FX4. I've owned it since 2004. I'm a big dude too...6'2" and was able to get under the dash fairly easy all things considered. A few things to add. My stock dust boot was big....maybe 3.5" across and mounted on the outside of the firewall. I used a 3/8 drive 12mm deep socket to remove the 4 nuts under the dash. A 1/4" drive deep 12mm socket was too short. Mine did not have that green cover over the clip pin. In the engine compartment, I removed the two 8mm bolts that hold the little black item just above the booster. It was very easy to remove the booster and master cylinder with that item out of the way. Otherwise, you might break the vacuum hose fitting on the bottom of that item and have to replace that too. Also, my master cylinder seized to the booster so I had to take it out as a complete unit. Good vid!!
Ok so while changing mine out, I strongly recommend you remove the lower panel on your dash and use a 3ft extension ratchet to take out the bolts. They wont be on too tight however if you're a big guy you'll need to tilt the steering wheel all the way up and move the driver's seat all the way back for you'll need to be upside down under the wheel to reach to the back. The upper bolts are more difficult. Getting out the pin to release the arm from the pedal arm isn't easy also. You'll see the plastic bushing pop out too. Reaching up under by feel or having someone skinny do this job would work better. Also on a 2003 f150 XLT 2WD it will be 13mm deep well socket you'll need.
I've been a mechanic for 50 plus years you did a great job. But I would have reused the plastic bushing that is in the rod at the brake switch.
Thanks for showing every body how to do it the right way.
Bro... fantastic job. This was the best tutorial I have ever seen. Wonderful job!!
Glad I could help. I appreciate the positive feedback.
Ive been fortunate enough to never need to replace a booster or master cylinder.. til now. Much simpler than I was expecting. Now to figure out if its the booster or MC, thats gone out.
Thanks for the video, I'm doing this on my 89 Grand Marquis and it's basically the same layout as yours, so thank you!!
Your welcome thanks for the support. Don’t see to many of the late 80’s Grand Marquis or Crown Vic’s anymore on the roads. Power and luxury at its finest keep it running brother.
Looks pretty similar to my grand marquis.
Wich I think I might need to replace.
Your video is really good.
Thank you sir
Yeah I think it’s pretty much the same thing.
Awesome video!!!! Straight forward. Removed the bottom dash, that helped a little…. Had to just get it done…. 2002 Harley Davidson F150…… THANK YOU!!!
Your welcome glad it helped you out.
Nice video bro!!! Thanks for showing us how to replace it and save money!! 👍👍👍💪💪💪
Thanks for the video buddy, very helpful !!
Vid is good to go. Thank you for posting.
Thank you very much and great job on the video. Super helpful
Such a good video with good details
Awesome video, thanks for the guide
got it, thank you very much.. regards from Mexico
I have the soft pedal issue. Looses pressure. I just replaced master cylinder and have same issue. Guess
I should try booster?
Does the pedal slowly sink to the floor?
@@BLUECOLLARGARAGE yes
Excellent. Thanks for this.
Did you need to go back in and adjust the pushrod length?
Did you come to find out that it wasn't the brake booster causing a fading pedal? I'm having the same problem and I'm thinking that there's possibly a bad batch of Master cylinders. I noticed that if I jab the pedal the brakes work fine but if I step on the pedal real easy, it'll go all the way to the floor.
Everything i need to know great job
Mine is a 98 F150 XL. The nuts on the inside of the fire wall are 13mm.
Great video very informative thanks enjoy your day 👍
I painted my booster so it doesn't rust. they do not come painted however it appears they have some coating on it but don't know if it prevents rusting.
Agreed, I thought the same - paint BB body semigloss black to match original BB.
Very helpfull video, thank you
I'm having the same problem I tested the master cylinder and it's fine I'm thinking of the booster or abs hydraulic unit I don't have the big module so a lil one.
Yeah it’s kinda hard to pinpoint the problem because it could be any of those three. The booster, master cylinder or abs module. If you end up replacing the module you may want to find one used or at the scrapyard because they want a fortune for a new one and you may need to get a scan tool that can run the abs module for bleeding.
@@BLUECOLLARGARAGE dang it.
As far as I'm aware a failing brake booster will cause less pedal travel and increased braking effort, not a fading pedal
I gota change mine out, do you have a video of putting in the new master cylinder also? these brake boosters rust over about 15 years and they cause vacuum pressure issues.
Yeah check out my other video it shows me changing out the master cylinder.
Will this help me with spongy brakes.
Thanks for the información 👍👍👍
Thank you sir
You can probably add Crown Victoria to your video title and double your views :)
How did you know the booster was out ? Iv got a 2001 with brake issues. We first was thinking the master cylinder but started thinking it could be either possibly
What are you brakes doing? Pedal sinking to the floor? Hard brake pedal?
@@BLUECOLLARGARAGE it’s my buddy’s truck i believe the pedal is sinking to the ground and lack of braking power
@@BLUECOLLARGARAGE after a few videos I’m guess hard pedal is booster , soft pedal is master cylinder ?
@@mick5740 yep that is correct. If the pedal is sinking to the floor it could also be the abs control module if it’s equipped with abs. This is another common issue on theses trucks as they start to age.
@@BLUECOLLARGARAGE oh ok. Yes it’s a 2001 lariat 4x4. I guess we’ll start with the master cylinder and see what happens 🤷🏻♂️ any way to find out about the abs control module ? Thanks buddy
Great job thank you
I know this is kind of old do you remember the measurements between the mounting studs? Every brake booster I have bought doesn't fit. The holes don't line up. My original part number is BRAKE BOOSTER YL34-2005-AA. When cross referenced the one you posted link to shows up but it doesn't fit.
My 4.2 was 2.75in, the 5.4 I believe was 3.25 in center to center stud
torque spec for the master cylinder to the brake booster is 18 ft/lbs (2 bolts).
My question is, why?..what was the problem or why the replacement
Brake pedal was fading to the floor booster was not holding pressure so I must of had a leak somewhere. A lot of times these boosters rust overtime and start to leak.
Could a faulty booster cause p0171 p0174 codes? I've replaced damn near everything and just thought of this. Thanks man.
It could be just double check the vacuum hose coming off the brake booster. Have you checked the hose back by the firewall that goes to the pcv valve underneath the plastic cowl cover I know it’s common for that hose to get dry rotted and collapse?
@@BLUECOLLARGARAGE I've replaced the breather hose and have a new pcv hose on the way. I even checked the emission lines from the egr valve and they looked good. Starting to wonder if it's the intake manifold gasket or faulty injector o-rings. Thanks for the heads 👆. Subbed.
@@jasonwilliams4390 hopefully that breather hose fixes it. You can always mix up some soapy water solution in a spray bottle and spray down the engine while it’s running and look for and bubbles developing on the hoses or especially around the intake. You can also use brake clean or carburetor cleaner just be very careful doing it this way since they are both flammable and lightly spray areas down and listen to the engine it should start to change rpm’s or cut out briefly once that fluid is sucked in if there’s a vacuum leak.
2:45 12mm
If the booster is bad you should just lose your assist as if the motor stalled but the pedal should not fade
Would help viewers to see "2003" in the title
Did it fix your issue? And did you have to modify the push rod after install?
After replacing the booster and master cylinder it did fix my my soft pedal issue and no I did not have to adjust the pushrod after I installed it.
Does anyone know if this application apply to the 2004 Ford Expedition Eddie Bauer. Your response would be greatly appreciated 🤠
Probably not 2004 was part of the 11th Gen Ford truck and 2003 was the last year of the 10th gen Ford truck
What about the plastic bushing you excluded it when re-assembling the brake switch to the pedal.
Yeah I forgot to put that in the video
you forgot the bushing and spacer on the rod.
I just finished replacing both and bleeding the system and my pedal still low I replaced front brake pads but not rear.
That sucks sounds like it may be your abs module then. How many miles is on the truck?
@@BLUECOLLARGARAGE 130 k miles. But they all probably local 98 f150
So I'll try to adjust the rear brakes again then see if I can bleed the abs module again as well. But I'm waiting on a abs to get pulled out from another pick up and this is a hydraulic abs unit not an electronic.
I don't believe that the brake booster was causing a fading pedal.
You never explained why you thought the booster was bad.
I'm assuming this did not solve your fading pedal problem?
You describe nothing about the symptoms except where you replied to one comment. I'm assuming you misdiagnosed the booster problem and that you had a defective master cylinder? Please respond
Originally my brake pedal was sinking to the floor while just sitting at stop lights. So first I checked to make sure I didn't have any leaks or lines that were going bad and bubbling up or calipers leaking they were all good so I figured it was my master cylinder had an internal leak and was leaking past the piston so I replaced that and it helped some but was still not right so I thought maybe it was the booster or abs module so I replaced the booster even though usually when a booster goes bad you get a hard stiff pedal but I gave it a shot and for some reason that pretty much solved the problem I'd say it's still not 100 percent but works for me when I get around to it I may replace the abs module if I can locate a used one from a nearby scrap yard because they are just to expensive to buy new
@@BLUECOLLARGARAGE I found your solution right here
Watch "2001 Ford F150 ABS Pump & Module Replacement (Spongy Sinking Brake Pedal Fix)" on RUclips
ruclips.net/video/KFnVe-u3zeM/видео.html
what issue were you having? On my 2004 explorer, I am having a very mushy brake pedal that goes real low to the floor before the breaks work. I think I'm going to do the master cylinder but wanted to know your issue with the brake booster. Thanks.
Mine pedal would slowly sink to the floor while sitting at a stop light. So I figured it was the master cylinder so I replaced that which helped out some but the pedal still didn't feel 100 percent. So I thought I'd just replace the booster and that seemed to fix the problem which was weird because normally when your booster is bad you'll have a hard stiff pedal which I didn't have.
@@BLUECOLLARGARAGE I am watching your video because My brakes did the same. I first got a bleed job because the fluid had never been flushed. I was hoping that would work since it was the cheapest option. I figured it was the master cyl. I had a master tech do the job where I work. he said " you have brakes now and it stops, but the power booster is bad.) which I thought was weird as I also thought the same as you did. these trucks must just be different for some reason. hopefully the booster fixes my brakes.
@@ryanbrockmiller1648 did booster fix it? I replaced my mc and sure enough still have same problem. The old mc had a leak at the back between cylinder and booster. Wondering if booster was damaged from the leak.
@@zachdavis2641 it did not fix the issue. I do have brakes now it is still squishy. I believe the problem is a bad abs unit. it is more then I can and want to do or spend the money to do at this time.
@@ryanbrockmiller1648 where would you recommend finding an abs pump?
You're missing a peddle
&
Thanks for the video but you failed to mention what to do when the brake booster is rust welding onto the master cylinder 🥲 lol took me over an hour to take out the MC
Yeah sorry I didn’t have that problem. Luckily here in Colorado we don’t have to deal with as much rust as the Midwest or north east.
thanks good work