A285004 shocks are great, but you do have to drill+tap M2 right next to, just to the inside of the front+rear trays, center punched 1/8" from top edge of frame. they do tip IN at frame (side view) but they don't interfere with steering. the ride is nice and soft without bouncing, the flex is more than the stock coil spring pogo sticks. really easy to spin the spring collars down the threaded shock bodies if you want a little more stiffness. good? bad? don't care? lazy? lol, whatever, I filled them with 10w-40 motor oil and they're really well behaved on MN-D90. mine never ran stock, the shocks arrived day before the kit did and already knew from videos how rough and bouncy MN-D90 would have been, took me a while to work out exactly where to mount the tops of those shocks, that were recommended by Gabriel Silvaz in his videos. where mine are mounted, they're angled about 30 degrees, does make them softer and allows longer/easier travel. I thought using the existing more inboard screw holes sat a little too tall and a little too stiff (was someone else's video "how to"). they're about 13-14 bucks a set of 4 in eBay.
definite "must do", you'll see the shock tops locations as described, was a bit of "CA them here-there" body on-off games to arrive at the spot, is also using the 6 spoke Fayee tires+rims. for stock MN-D90 tires, definitely try the existing screw holes first for the stock tires being a little taller (which is tons easier and about 3/8" outboard of where I drilled and tapped).
Great vid mate .I'm just seeing how you access your battery.i like the idea of having it over the engine to keep venter gravity.the car is for my son so I want to make it easy to change in and out. Thanks
That's a 2200mah 2s. Gives you a long runtime. You can put a 1500mah lion up there and have room to slide it in that location and it's easier to remove unless you do the battery mod like on the d90 you can accommodate 2x 2200mah 2s lipos.
Nice wpl vids. i picked up a used c14 with extra parts today for 10$ ish got some good tips from youre vids.so im gonna fix it and give it to my son to bash and have fun. gonna toss up a vid on it this weekend :) love the wpl content = subbed.
Great video bud love the comparison between the two. Wife and I each have a brand new kit . Hers is the green d90 mine is the blue fj45 . I just checked since we haven't had time to build them . Her truck has the fj45 wheels and chassis . They must be doing a running change . Also did your fj45 box show the fj40 on the front and back. Mine does looks like they made a back and rack for the fj45 it's even in the instructions . Can't wait to see what you do to your fj45 .
I did get that box. I wonder if they are coming out with a whole kit for it? I hope they sell just the back. Or I may attempt a canvas top? I'm not a fabricator but I might just try it!
@@RunThatRC I'm really hoping the whole kit and that's kind of what it looks like on the back of the box. That's funny I was thinking about fabricating a canvas top for mine too. I was thinking along the lines of some piano wire for the loops and some fabric from the craft store. Absolutely love your channel by the way . Way to be all about just enjoying the hobby 👍👊
@@melmyrtle5765 that sounds good! I'm not sure what I would use for it. Probably plastic tubes like the parts tree so it can withstand my abusive driving lol. Thanks for your support!
Nice review bro thanks.. But I have a problem with my MN model axles i wanna change my stock axles gear with the wpl metal gear parts in my MN axles but when use the Metal Gear it's stuck! Man I just don't know why it's stuck.. Can you make a video how to install or mod the MN bridge axles bro😭 (need help 😁)
yupyup to making a gasket for the input cover if the mesh is too tight, a typical matchbook cover thickness should be enough. only run the screws in until they stop, they don't need to be tight, over tightening is a very common mistake people do when assembling
Someone gave me a MN45 and I kinda dig it for what it is. I'm looking into buying a WPL C34 km,do you know if this chassis will bolt rite up to the MN45 body? It looks very similar,thanx
A285004 shocks are great, but you do have to drill+tap M2 right next to, just to the inside of the front+rear trays, center punched 1/8" from top edge of frame. they do tip IN at frame (side view) but they don't interfere with steering. the ride is nice and soft without bouncing, the flex is more than the stock coil spring pogo sticks. really easy to spin the spring collars down the threaded shock bodies if you want a little more stiffness. good? bad? don't care? lazy? lol, whatever, I filled them with 10w-40 motor oil and they're really well behaved on MN-D90. mine never ran stock, the shocks arrived day before the kit did and already knew from videos how rough and bouncy MN-D90 would have been, took me a while to work out exactly where to mount the tops of those shocks, that were recommended by Gabriel Silvaz in his videos.
where mine are mounted, they're angled about 30 degrees, does make them softer and allows longer/easier travel. I thought using the existing more inboard screw holes sat a little too tall and a little too stiff (was someone else's video "how to"). they're about 13-14 bucks a set of 4 in eBay.
might have to add that to the list
definite "must do", you'll see the shock tops locations as described, was a bit of "CA them here-there" body on-off games to arrive at the spot, is also using the 6 spoke Fayee tires+rims. for stock MN-D90 tires, definitely try the existing screw holes first for the stock tires being a little taller (which is tons easier and about 3/8" outboard of where I drilled and tapped).
Great vid mate .I'm just seeing how you access your battery.i like the idea of having it over the engine to keep venter gravity.the car is for my son so I want to make it easy to change in and out.
Thanks
That's a 2200mah 2s. Gives you a long runtime. You can put a 1500mah lion up there and have room to slide it in that location and it's easier to remove unless you do the battery mod like on the d90 you can accommodate 2x 2200mah 2s lipos.
Nice wpl vids. i picked up a used c14 with extra parts today for 10$ ish got some good tips from youre vids.so im gonna fix it and give it to my son to bash and have fun.
gonna toss up a vid on it this weekend :)
love the wpl content = subbed.
Nice! They are fun. Thanks for the support brother!
@@RunThatRC Just uploaded my first wpl vid, check it out and see what you think. :) you are like the grand master of wpl cars ^^
Great video bud love the comparison between the two. Wife and I each have a brand new kit . Hers is the green d90 mine is the blue fj45 . I just checked since we haven't had time to build them . Her truck has the fj45 wheels and chassis . They must be doing a running change . Also did your fj45 box show the fj40 on the front and back. Mine does looks like they made a back and rack for the fj45 it's even in the instructions . Can't wait to see what you do to your fj45 .
I did get that box. I wonder if they are coming out with a whole kit for it? I hope they sell just the back. Or I may attempt a canvas top? I'm not a fabricator but I might just try it!
@@RunThatRC I'm really hoping the whole kit and that's kind of what it looks like on the back of the box. That's funny I was thinking about fabricating a canvas top for mine too. I was thinking along the lines of some piano wire for the loops and some fabric from the craft store. Absolutely love your channel by the way . Way to be all about just enjoying the hobby 👍👊
@@melmyrtle5765 that sounds good! I'm not sure what I would use for it. Probably plastic tubes like the parts tree so it can withstand my abusive driving lol. Thanks for your support!
@@RunThatRC oh that's a great idea put use to the parts tree love it . 😁
Loved the music 🎶 in the beginning of the video
It's from an app I used but dont remember lol.
Plz build me which one is best jjrc q65 ,mn90,wpl c12,c24, Fayee I m biggner which truck have long life plz reply
Any chance of a full list of parts from the WPL and what motor and ESC you're running? I want the MN-45 just for the body basically 🤣
my favorite setup from WPL would be a KM kit with V3 electronics running on a 1200mah li ion.
Nice review bro thanks.. But I have a problem with my MN model axles i wanna change my stock axles gear with the wpl metal gear parts in my MN axles but when use the Metal Gear it's stuck! Man I just don't know why it's stuck.. Can you make a video how to install or mod the MN bridge axles bro😭 (need help 😁)
@@Overland_RCman it's hard for me bro and I already try it but it's still stuck a little bit and it's sounds very hard 😅
So when everything is installed your gears dont move? Could you possibly post a video?
@@RunThatRC yep.. But I don't know how to upload a video 😅
@@Overland_RC OK I'll try put a gasket on it
yupyup to making a gasket for the input cover if the mesh is too tight, a typical matchbook cover thickness should be enough. only run the screws in until they stop, they don't need to be tight, over tightening is a very common mistake people do when assembling
I want this mn45. Can i upgrade it to 370 motor with aluminum gearbox?
yes you can do all the upgrades you can woth the mnd90.
Someone gave me a MN45 and I kinda dig it for what it is. I'm looking into buying a WPL C34 km,do you know if this chassis will bolt rite up to the MN45 body? It looks very similar,thanx
It's not a direct fit but I think it is doable with minor trimming. I know the C24 chassis fits with very little modifications.
@@RunThatRC oh ok,thanx.
Where do you get the metal drive shaft for the MN-d90
They are wpl metal driveshafts.
Nice video! Subscribed
Thanks for the support!
Nice brother
Thanks brother! Appreciate the support!
@@RunThatRC Always brother 👍🤙
just bought it last week..yihuuu
Very similar!
Body is plastic?
yes hard plastic body
Need to stop smacking the damn things when you talk bro 😂
never! hahahaha