Hello from BC, Canada!!!!! Great project car guys! You gotta love the troubleshooting phase where you discover all the old owner "homegrown fixes" hehe. That's half the fun though :)
Awesome Euro Spec 635csi, Change those ugly US spec Front Turn signal lenses to more flush Euro spec ones with only single filament (21w) bulbs, and also install REAL euro H1 type (both Low & High beams) with city light feature headlight buckets and chuck those US Sealed beam Head lights, The “Neutronics” module you found on the driver’s side was the actual “Lamda Computer ECU” for the Oxygen sensor added to your car to control the air fuel ratio mixture (Closed Loop setup) along with the aftermarket catalytic converter since Euro M30B34 until 1985 (most) had no Catalyst and ECU ran Open loop,” 0 261 200 061 “ should be the BOSCH Motronic ECU in your car. They cut a wire on the wiring harness near the ECU and connect that to the NEUTRONICS ECU to control the air/fuel ratio mixture via O2 sensor input, make sure you restore that wire to original spec (it might be open now). Also the Rear spoiler is the SAME and US M6 (87-88) M Tech spoiler and the steering wheel was standard on US E28 535i models. Euro cars have a cool feature when you open the Driver’s door the front electric windows get energized without the ignition key in the “ON” position, make sure that function still works as some conversion shops disable that feature, also during the DOT conversion they may have added a “SEAT BELT WARNING BUZZER and a lamp” (again a computer / relay module) behind the Instrument cluster, remove that CRAP. Good luck with the restoration, I have owned many of these Euro cars and still have an early 1983 Euro 635si with RECARO seats and NO SUNROOF (among few more Euro Spec M cars I own / collect) Cheers, Sal
Hi there. Congratulations with your new old car. I have the same car with also Alpine Weiss color. Interesting information you are giving. Greetings from Belgium.
Great video work I have a 1985 BMW 635 USA spec manual transmission I'm actually doing extensive work on like yours but I'm not videoing it..I'm happy and grateful for saving this car and will follow your progress.
Hi Abbey, great work. The hose you point out at the bottom of the intake manifold is not chopped up, it's connected to the "poliamide" plastic hose just to the right of your hand, and it goes to the interior on the foot well panel you took of to trace the current drawn. It's for the interior temperature sensor located on that panel which has an electrical connection but also this vaccum feed. Hope this helps. I'd love to see more content about this gorgeous sharknose of the 80's. I myself I'm a proud owner of an 84 csi and they are absolutely wonderful!
Great work on the videos, keep them coming! I have a desire to add one of these 6 series to my stable in the future and I am using your videos as my base of knowledge on the platform, so THANK YOU!!!
well done, great videos. A lot of great technical details. What is your background to know so much about engines and electricals and all car mechanics? Impressive. Keep it up
Thanks! I’ll have to be sure to get into my background at some point, but in a nutshell: I’ve been working on cars and helping friends with their projects for 15ish years - everything from basic maintenance to tearing engines down and rebuilding them. I have an electrical engineering degree and a long background in commercial (AC) electrical construction. Low voltage is not my forte, but hey … how hard can it be? 😬
@@mariemotors this is awesome. I do like the details and the steps you are going through. I have been trying to find a space in London to do my own maintenance. Hard to come by and expensive but not giving up
Nice video. The power drain section was very helpful. I also "enjoy" janky car fixes from previous mechanics. Keep on truckin. I'm restoring my E28 M5 at the moment. There are many similarities in the platforms. The hose from the intake manifold might go to the nipple at the base of the dipstick. On M5 it takes crank case vented oil, collects it in the manifold and excess is drained back into the oil pan if it isn't burned up. Cheers from Sydney.
I really enjoyed this episode ! Did you check the crankcase on the valve cover while it was off? Other than what you mentioned about the capped off recirc hose IIRC, this could be a potential reason. I'm not that mechanically savvy on M30s. You seem like you can get right into just about anything on a car though and I think that's great !
Awesome video and fantastic story, you two. It was really kool listening to your quest for information on your car's past life, and what you were able to discover about it and the prior owner. I can relate, having had similar experiences with many of our classic BMW's. You're doing a great job on the restoration of the E24, and when she's done you'll be rewarded with a much admired & desired classic that will give plenty of enjoyment. As a tip from someone who was in the trade, these cars are also an astute investment & appreciating asset.....just look at the current value of the 635CSi's nearest BMW relation and predecessor, the E9 3.0 CS & CSL coupes. Less than 20 years ago, you could buy a decent example for around $20K. Now they're pushing $100K and rising. The E24's are heading the same way. So she may end up being even more rewarding than you might have imagined.
New subscriber and fellow BMW enthusiast/E46 M3 owner. Please do a video on it as well on what is done and a series on anything you do to it moving forward.
Make sure the oil feed pipe banjo bolt’s are tight, common issue on the M30, You can get your air flow meter checked for around $80 or rebuilt for $380 at a company in the uk, who deal with Bosch part’s. they have the only test rig available to do this. Also remove the idle control valve and rotate it in your hand, the cam should slide open and close freely, if not it’s no good. I got a good replacement from Fritz bit’s here in the uk , part is n/a from BMW. Look at ATC Drivetrain Uk, base in Staffordshire, uk to have your air flow meter checked, Good look. 😀👍🏻
Yep banjo bolts of the spray-bar are a must check. I think at eBay they sell little tabs that bend and prevent the bolts from loosening. I don't know if I can put a link to them here in the comment section but if it helps I'll post it.
My 1985 M635Csi had a electrical drain, due to the trunk light. Because the switch was out of alignment and I confirmed it by videoing from my mobile phone, left inside the trunk. It took a while till I figured this out, like having to recharge the battery 5 times!
my 1985 635 euro also has a battery drain which i have traced to fuse 21..............but i cant find what is draining .........maybe that will help! sweet car BTW
Hello from BC, Canada!!!!! Great project car guys! You gotta love the troubleshooting phase where you discover all the old owner "homegrown fixes" hehe. That's half the fun though :)
Awesome Euro Spec 635csi, Change those ugly US spec Front Turn signal lenses to more flush Euro spec ones with only single filament (21w) bulbs, and also install REAL euro H1 type (both Low & High beams) with city light feature headlight buckets and chuck those US Sealed beam Head lights, The “Neutronics” module you found on the driver’s side was the actual “Lamda Computer ECU” for the Oxygen sensor added to your car to control the air fuel ratio mixture (Closed Loop setup) along with the aftermarket catalytic converter since Euro M30B34 until 1985 (most) had no Catalyst and ECU ran Open loop,” 0 261 200 061 “ should be the BOSCH Motronic ECU in your car. They cut a wire on the wiring harness near the ECU and connect that to the NEUTRONICS ECU to control the air/fuel ratio mixture via O2 sensor input, make sure you restore that wire to original spec (it might be open now). Also the Rear spoiler is the SAME and US M6 (87-88) M Tech spoiler and the steering wheel was standard on US E28 535i models. Euro cars have a cool feature when you open the Driver’s door the front electric windows get energized without the ignition key in the “ON” position, make sure that function still works as some conversion shops disable that feature, also during the DOT conversion they may have added a “SEAT BELT WARNING BUZZER and a lamp” (again a computer / relay module) behind the Instrument cluster, remove that CRAP.
Good luck with the restoration, I have owned many of these Euro cars and still have an early 1983 Euro 635si with RECARO seats and NO SUNROOF (among few more Euro Spec M cars I own / collect)
Cheers,
Sal
Exceptionally rare to find a euro one-owner E24, let alone a manual one this untouched. Very cool!
Hi there. Congratulations with your new old car. I have the same car with also Alpine Weiss color. Interesting information you are giving. Greetings from Belgium.
Amazing story with the original owners. Wonderful!
I'm subscribing.
Yes!
Always replace the rotor and the cap at the same time to maintain proper clearance. Cheap enough to enable smooth running.
Great video work I have a 1985 BMW 635 USA spec manual transmission I'm actually doing extensive work on like yours but I'm not videoing it..I'm happy and grateful for saving this car and will follow your progress.
Hi Abbey, great work. The hose you point out at the bottom of the intake manifold is not chopped up, it's connected to the "poliamide" plastic hose just to the right of your hand, and it goes to the interior on the foot well panel you took of to trace the current drawn. It's for the interior temperature sensor located on that panel which has an electrical connection but also this vaccum feed. Hope this helps. I'd love to see more content about this gorgeous sharknose of the 80's. I myself I'm a proud owner of an 84 csi and they are absolutely wonderful!
Great work on the videos, keep them coming! I have a desire to add one of these 6 series to my stable in the future and I am using your videos as my base of knowledge on the platform, so THANK YOU!!!
well done, great videos. A lot of great technical details. What is your background to know so much about engines and electricals and all car mechanics? Impressive. Keep it up
Thanks! I’ll have to be sure to get into my background at some point, but in a nutshell: I’ve been working on cars and helping friends with their projects for 15ish years - everything from basic maintenance to tearing engines down and rebuilding them.
I have an electrical engineering degree and a long background in commercial (AC) electrical construction. Low voltage is not my forte, but hey … how hard can it be? 😬
@@mariemotors this is awesome. I do like the details and the steps you are going through. I have been trying to find a space in London to do my own maintenance. Hard to come by and expensive but not giving up
repair all of my volvo 760 v6 2.8 please
Nice video. The power drain section was very helpful. I also "enjoy" janky car fixes from previous mechanics. Keep on truckin. I'm restoring my E28 M5 at the moment. There are many similarities in the platforms. The hose from the intake manifold might go to the nipple at the base of the dipstick. On M5 it takes crank case vented oil, collects it in the manifold and excess is drained back into the oil pan if it isn't burned up. Cheers from Sydney.
I really enjoyed this episode ! Did you check the crankcase on the valve cover while it was off? Other than what you mentioned about the capped off recirc hose IIRC, this could be a potential reason. I'm not that mechanically savvy on M30s. You seem like you can get right into just about anything on a car though and I think that's great !
Awesome video and fantastic story, you two. It was really kool listening to your quest for information on your car's past life, and what you were able to discover about it and the prior owner. I can relate, having had similar experiences with many of our classic BMW's.
You're doing a great job on the restoration of the E24, and when she's done you'll be rewarded with a much admired & desired classic that will give plenty of enjoyment. As a tip from someone who was in the trade, these cars are also an astute investment & appreciating asset.....just look at the current value of the 635CSi's nearest BMW relation and predecessor, the E9 3.0 CS & CSL coupes. Less than 20 years ago, you could buy a decent example for around $20K. Now they're pushing $100K and rising. The E24's are heading the same way. So she may end up being even more rewarding than you might have imagined.
New subscriber and fellow BMW enthusiast/E46 M3 owner. Please do a video on it as well on what is done and a series on anything you do to it moving forward.
Make sure the oil feed pipe banjo bolt’s are tight, common issue on the M30, You can get your air flow meter checked for around $80 or rebuilt for $380 at a company in the uk, who deal with Bosch part’s. they have the only test rig available to do this. Also remove the idle control valve and rotate it in your hand, the cam should slide open and close freely, if not it’s no good. I got a good replacement from Fritz bit’s here in the uk , part is n/a from BMW.
Look at ATC Drivetrain Uk, base in Staffordshire, uk to have your air flow meter checked,
Good look. 😀👍🏻
Yep banjo bolts of the spray-bar are a must check. I think at eBay they sell little tabs that bend and prevent the bolts from loosening. I don't know if I can put a link to them here in the comment section but if it helps I'll post it.
Great background story. Keep them coming.
Great videos, keep em coming.
My 1985 M635Csi had a electrical drain, due to the trunk light. Because the switch was out of alignment and I confirmed it by videoing from my mobile phone, left inside the trunk. It took a while till I figured this out, like having to recharge the battery 5 times!
love the vids :)
love it !!!
my 1985 635 euro also has a battery drain which i have traced to fuse 21..............but i cant find what is draining .........maybe that will help! sweet car BTW
Yep, same here. I’m investigating that more in a couple days and will let you know what I find!
I would like you to repair all of my volvo 760 v6 2.8 , i LOVE you abie