How To Adjust Motorcycle Valves / 1994 Honda CBR900RR Fireblade SC28
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- Опубликовано: 8 сен 2024
- In this video we'll look at what it takes to adjust the valve clearances on a shim-under-bucket valvetrain system. The bike in the video is a 1994 Honda CBR900RR Fireblade (SC28).
Nice to see a level headed, practical, no nonsense video, of someone doing the proper job, with good explanation to boot. Well done!
This is the best shim-under-bucket valve adjustment video on you tube - thanks for taking the time to put this together!
Now a days a no BS intro and straight to the point video = automatic sub. Refreshing and informative.
I really like that your vids are so in-depth, really gives a good view of how much work it actually is to maintain/restore cars and bikes. A lot better than having all the work cutaway in editing and just saying that it was an easy job to do.
Thank you for that. I know to many these videos can seem redundant and long winded. My hope is that other people not familiar with the process can actually learn from them and use it as a resource.
Many times I have seen videos that make things look too easy and could lead one to undertake a job above their skill level. While this is a fairly straight forward job, it is good that you include all of the steps necessary. I’m not looking forward to doing my Concours 14, but videos like this show that, if one takes their time, it is possible. I hadn’t thought about why the carb sync would be necessary after adjustment. I had assumed that it was due to wear in the throttle linkage, but I can see how valve lift on cylinders would change the setting. Nicely done.
26:23 This is such an important technique that it really deserves an extra point out. Doing this can save a lot of time and headaches. It really deserves to be mentioned early on before you pulled the cams. This should be in the shop manual.
That is great, except if you are going to take advantage of being there, to change the timing chain, which is usually a weak point in our fireblades. How would you do such marking if you were to change the chain? Another question; anybody knows if the procedure is the same in previous years (I own a ´99)?
Excellent video, adding carb synchronization to finalize top notch engine permformance.
Thank you for the video and using the assembly lube. Had issues lining the cam sprocket marks and eventually the tappet buckets were seizing and had 0.03mm on many valves and was unable to obtain TDC on the ex side. Antiseize assembly lube should make correct. Thumbs up
I need to check the adjustment of a '96 CBR 600 the method is very similar to your Fireblade.
Thanks for the decent camera work and precise walkthrough; you can easily see everything that needs attention, which helps a lot! Using your vid as reference i'll be able to tackle the job with myself, saving about £300 too. What a top bloke you are! 🍻
Great to see you working on one of your bikes again!
thank you a lot for the effort of filming your process in such a detailed manner. its super helpful, appreciate it.
You're welcome! Thanks for watching!
Bro I love how clearly you speak for the video and how well you explain each step! You are by far the best professor at the University of RUclips and I am very interested in any other CBR 900 videos you may make and any that you have already made! I have a 94' and a 95' 900RR fireblade as well as a 93' FZR 600R and a 99' suzuki SV650
A Fireblade you can be proud of.
I may be mad but please review the last valve adjustment. It appears that you picked up the old shim and put it back into the engine. At 23:23 you pick out a new shim from the box, at 23:26 you lay it down to the right of the old shim, and at 23:27 you pick up the shim on the left and install it. Hope I'm wrong but I've watched it about a dozen times.
Gary you're not imagining it - I definitely picked up the old shim. But then the camera cuts (it might be hard to tell) because I had to move the camera to the stabilizer so I could walk over to the bike. I ended up putting the old shim back down to this, then picked up the correct shim to go over to the bike with. The confusion and discontinuity of editing! Good spot though, I'm glad to hear you're watching that closely :)
Best video ever, thank you so much!
great video bud! exactly what I was looking for! God bless you man
I just did this last month on my SC28. My exhaust valves were too tight as well! I was starting to my my own DIY video at that point but never got around to putting it together. This is much more detailed anyway! Good job. And where's that real world bike review of the CBR900RR that you've been promising? ;) haha
I appreciate it! Yeah...I know :) I haven't had a camera man to do the rolling shots. I might just try to do it anyway.
Great advice ! Thanks for posting
Плохо что я не знаю английский язык , видео очень полезное , было бы оно ещё с переводом на русский вообще цены этому видео небыло бы ! За любовь к мотоциклам и проделаную работу Лайк !)))
Sweet!!! Awesome job showing and explaining everything!! and bike sounds great!! I have 98 Fireblade 😁😍
now I became confused : the manual book show us that we have to rotate until the T mark : then we adjust the EX valves to another mark and does not matche exactly 180 Degree rotation .. but you rotated 180 degree upside down and not adjusted it as it is shown in the Manual .. tell me your opinion about it ..
Fantastic video!!! Thank you for going into the detail you did it was a super big help to me.
Great work! Thanks
super vid Bladebro. two jobs in one take. love it.
i am not so sure about the non honda shims. would measure them first.
had the carbtune tool too, warm up the engine and raise the idle a bit.
your blade is in good hands, with care these engines can run 70.000 miles easy.
btw, is that a rgv250 in the corner? and a 300z . true mancave. take care.
Good to have you back man!
Excellent video. Many thanks.
nice video, thanks!
Dude, awesome video !
Thanks a lot for these videos and I hope you make more as you maintain your CBR900RR. Now I wonder if I need to do this on my bike, it's also without any maintenance history and same milage.
I think you should probably go in and at least check the clearances. It will give you more peace of mind!
Outstanding video! I love all the in-depth information and step-by-step walkthrough. I will need to do this job over the coming winter with my 1998 Smokin' Joe's CBR 600F3. Similar story to yours - bought it with ~20,000 miles, not running, and no service records. Thoroughly cleaned and balanced the carbs, and it came right back to life. However, the throttle is a little sluggish at low RPMs (Idle-3k RPMs), so it runs a little rough at low speeds. Runs excellent at higher RPMs (3k and above). Does that sound like a valve clearance issue to you? Or do you think it might still be a carb issue (like the pilot jets, which are stock)? If you would like to share any of your CBR expertise, I would greatly appreciate it! Thanks!
Hi Chris, thanks for watching! That sounds more like pilot jets to me, but valve clearances could cause it as well. You might as well pop off the valve cover while you have the carbs out and see what they measure at. Good luck!
@@PracticalEnthusiast Thanks for the fast reply! You are absolutely right. I'm going to try to figure out if I need to go up or down in size of those pilot jets, and when I've got everything torn apart, I might as well get any valve clearance issues cleaned up too. Thanks again for your excellent videos!
Fabulous content this thank you so much !
I see you are right about the 180 degree : it was the Honda book that has a mistaken photos : its name is Honda CB 900 c_f_Service manual
Nice information 👍
Every thing is awesome 👏👌 except the sync of the carb should be done while engine is hot also . You should sync all carbs based on clyinder 3 as the manual says 🙂
Sir you have video for cbr250r how to adjust valve intake and exhaust. How to timing in my motorcycle. Thanks
thanks for this vid helped me out heaps great job,,, i have a 1999 cbr900rr and only need to do no 1 shims ,,,i know this is a old thread ,,, But having trouble getting the cam holder out ,,,seems stuck took all the bolts out and cant move it ,,,wondering if i missed something ,,,will keep checking for a reply cheers
It should come out but may need a bit of light tapping with a brass hammer. Also make sure that the cam is not pressing up into the holder and binding it. That is possible because the rest of the cam holders are out and the cam is able to be pressed upward by the valve buckets.
@@PracticalEnthusiast thanks for your help solved cheers ,,keep up the vids very helpful
Practical Enthusiast , great video, thank you!
What is the correct diameter for the valve shims?
Just wondering are you supposed to release the tension of the cam chain before rotating the engine? I always thought you do that before removing the cams, after rotating and checking your clearances first.
For whatever reason the service manual has you take the tension off first, but you're right, it's best to leave tension on when rotating the assembly. However, I don't think there is any risk of the chain hopping teeth so long as the plugs are out and you're rotating by hand.
@@PracticalEnthusiast That's true, Appreciate this video, It made it really clear
Do a bike build please!!!!!!!!!! Lioe the bmw. Or even better do a bmw bike build thats the same year.
Not a bad idea :)
Hello, I need the correct measurements of the valve calibration, please, honda cbr900 year 1994, thank you
Are you missing the “heat guard plate”? I didn’t see it in the video
Plate, Heat Guard
fits:
Honda
product number:
19125MW0000
CMS product number: “1”
HO0033.3037
I think it was the piece I removed around the 1:56 mark.
Tenho cbr igual sua, desmontei pra faser motor, eu mêsmo vó monta tava na dúvida ponto árvore de comando, vendo vc monta já tiro minha duvida, claro vó ter que regular válvulas tabem porq precisei sentar válvulas tava com muita carbonização
What if I broke a valve cover bolt on the inside and I only run it with 5 but no leaks
Thanks Pro
Great to see that classic bike get some TLC bro!! Question... Are there any websites that specialize in selling older bikes? I have a 1992 GSX-R 750 with 4100K miles that I am thinking of selling. THX!!
There sure are. Take a look at www.raresportbikesforsale.com and also www.iconicmotorbikes.com.
@@PracticalEnthusiast thx man, I appreciate it. And just FYI I've been subbed and watching ur bike vids b4 now... keep grindin at it bro.
256/5000
I would like to know if the exhaust valves on a Fireblade from the United States strike in a similar way to the exhaust valves on a Blade that runs in Germany. "Ours" occasionally get a lot of gas on the autobahn for a long time.. (google translation)
How many miles has this cbr when you performed the valve adjustment?
Hey guy I just picked up a 1995 all ways wanted one I bought it as is and I think it needs something it's not running as hard as I know it could what do I do from need help bad
参考になりました。
just after some advise ...did the check all in spec ,,but after running the bike doing carb sync,,, Still have a rattle ,,,on acceleration ,,,but not on slow roll on of throttle ,,So wondering if the clearances should have been set to the bigger tolerance as intake came in at 0.006 (0.005-0,007) is the workshop specs and exhaust came in at 0.0010 (0.009-0.0011) work shop specs So just wondering if i should pull it down to redo cheers
It could very well be your cam chain tensioner going out. You can pick up a manual one for about $60 and it's easy to swap out. I'd go that route first.
And where i can buy shim complete set sir?
I have a slight issue. So I bought a use 99 CBR 900rr and wanted to check the valves since it has 50k miles. But when I removed the crankshaft timing cover there are no markings on the pulse rotor. The bike runs great but has a little valve noise that I'm not sure is normal or not. The bike did sit for a few years before I ended up with it and although I took the bowls off the carbs and cleaned them out I still put some sea foam in the gas so that might be what is causing the noise. I didn't even notice the sound until the morning after I first rode it (around 50 miles) when I cranked it I noticed the cam chain was rattling at low RPM's so I did the little trick of winding up the tensioner and letting it go. That fixed the cam chain noise but that is when I started hearing a little tapping in the valves. Maybe the sound was there all along and I just didn't pay close enough attention to notice until hearing the timing chain noise? It sounds like it's only coming from cylinder #1 area but I still want to check all the valve clearances but I'm not sure where to start without having the markings. I guess I will have to align it the best I can and make my own marks?
I think you're on the right path with going in there to check the valve clearances. It could be that Cylinder 1 is out of spec (loose) and making extra noise. I would also recommend synching the carburetors because if they're out of sync, they could cause odd noises as well, at least at, and near, idle.
The missing markings on the crank must be something Honda did in the later-year 900s. What I would recommend doing is sticking a dowel rod down the spark plug hole of cylinder #1 and turn the crank until the dowel shows the piston is at the top of its stroke. Then, check the markings on the exhaust cam sprocket to make sure you are on the correct stroke. If not, rotate the crank 180 degrees and you should be where you need it. Just a tip - when checking valve clearances, you just want to make sure the cam lobe isn't depressing the valve you're checking. It doesn't have to be absolutely perfect as far as cam positioning goes, but generally, you want the cam lobe pointed in the opposite direction of the valve.
@@PracticalEnthusiast Thank you for the reply, that actually helps a lot. I've working on cars and Harleys my whole life but sport bikes are a new thing to me. As far as checking the valves, I don't know why I was thinking the cam had to be perfectly aligned. The valves just being in the closed position without the cam lobe close enough to interfere makes perfect sense. I'm not sure why there are no markings, as far as I know this engine could be rebuilt at some point in the last 20+ years. I don't think the carbs are off the bike runs perfect I honestly think I'm over analyzing the noise but I do want to do everything I can to make sure this bike stays running for years to come.
These engines can be a little noisy even when they're perfect. I was chasing down some valve train noise on mine, but then I eventually stopped because it ran perfectly and nothing else seemed amiss. Definitely check out the valve clearances, maybe inspect the chain tensioner and replace with a fixed position one, but otherwise I'd just ride it and enjoy it.
@@PracticalEnthusiast Was able to check all the valves today and they where all within spec. Actually they where almost perfect. The inside of the engine is extremely clean so I'm a lot less worried about it now. I did order a manual timing chain tensioner and plan on replacing the clutch disk as well as the drive chain then I should be good to go for a long while. Thanks again for the advice.
@@adamcrux6829 that's great news! Thanks for reporting back. You're welcome and happy riding!
I got a 94 fireblade that was sitting for 6-7 years, The carbs were removed and cleaned, Fully serviced, It runs spluttery, pops and bangs until it's warmed up. Once warm it revs quite clean. Would you say that is valve adjustment?
I'd say something is still partially clogging the carbs. Even after being cleaned, carbs often have to come off multiple times for internal debris to be removed if they've sat for a long time.
@@PracticalEnthusiast The tank was rusty inside, The float bowls were full of rust particals and the jets clogged fully, He had a Honda mechanic go through the carbs but personally i don't know how good of a job he done, personally i would of got them ultrasonic cleaned. The tank has been replaced aswell. It's a rare original urban tiger model
Do you wanna buy my grey 94 CBR 900 Fireblade with the single headlight version?
Greetings from Mexico, I have a question I hope you can help me. I have a Fireblade CBR 900RR since 1998. My motorcycle cannot be stable in revolutions when it is in low revolutions
I would check the pilot jets in the carburetors to make sure they aren't clogged. A valve adjustment may also be the culprit but it is less likely.
How much you charge to do that I'm thinking on buying a 93 9000rr
Nice job. Thanks for the diy. Was there any evidence /indication that the valves were ever adjusted once you had the valvecover off ? (Like mar on a bolt head )Or do you believe this was the first time valves were adjusted?
I think the valves had been adjust before at least once because the sealant on the valve cover didn't look factory. Otherwise there isn't a great way to tell.
@@PracticalEnthusiast Hi i have 1996 cbr 900 rr almost 40k miles on her no service records, is it bad to wait to do a valve clearance check? the bike runs great and doesn't make any weird noises and pulls like a train. Do they lose clearance fast? or is it okay to wait a bit longer?
@@everythingsbetternaked473 I'd recommend getting them checked as soon as you can. If they are too tight, they won't make any noise and could lead to a burnt valve.
@@PracticalEnthusiast So correctly adjusted valves make noise?
@@kingkire1556 They certainly can! Especially when cold.
Trádus pra mim essa sequencia de Cabo de velas dessa moto
If you're just checking the clearances, why would you have to relieve the tension on the cam chain? Seems like an unnecessary step, unless you have to pull the cams to correct valve lash.
In this case that was the intent (removing the valve shim buckets to correct the valve gap). Otherwise if you are verifying but not removing anything then you will not have to relieve the cam chain.
@@owensmith1258 I see. Even in the service manual they say to perform the chain tensioner lifter before checking the clearances. I just check the clearances on my 919 and I have 5 out of tolerance.
Здравствуйте хоть у меня по английскому было 3 в школе,но я все равно все понял,и выглядел это так.1. метка T1 клапана 1,3 впуск.2.180% клапана 2,4 выпуск.3.T1 2,4 впуск. 4.180% 1,3 выпуск.Както так. Ток не понятно по valve clearances
You think it is necessary to do what you did with this one to solve my failure ..
hi,did you reuse the original rubber gasket or fit a new one? thanks.
I reused the old one because it was still in good shape. You can buy a new one but they're more expensive than you might expect.
@@PracticalEnthusiast yeah im in the uk ,they cost about £48 or $58 us.thanks for reply ,my bike has done 16,000 miles ,im hoping the gasket will be ok.keep the videos coming.
I have an opportunity to buy a 900CBR RR Do you suggest I pull the trigger? Are these bikes pretty reliable?
They are very reliable. If it's in mostly original condition then it could be a great investment as well. I'd recommend it!
Cilinder 4, last valve, wrong shim... 23:04
Good spot! Another comment caught this as well, but the truth is it was an illusion of editing. Here's my previous response:
Gary you're not imagining it - I definitely picked up the old shim. But then the camera cuts (it might be hard to tell) because I had to move the camera to the stabilizer so I could walk over to the bike. I ended up putting the old shim back down to this, then picked up the correct shim to go over to the bike with. The confusion and discontinuity of editing! Good spot though, I'm glad to hear you're watching that closely :)
NOT ENOUGH SHIMS IN THOSE KITS.
thw world is designed in mm not inches brooo :P
40min video which could have been done in 10min max...
Thanks!
I enjoyed the more detailed version. Nice vid bro... 🤜💥🤛