It’s a standard scania piston, part number 1397345, it even says scania on the wrist pin. A tip for when you taking out liners from the block is to mark which hole they came from and most importantly clock them so that they go back like they come out! Another tip is to get a scania engine rotation tool. It’s a little cog for the 1/2” ratchet that you spin the engine over on the flywheel
I was a parts department manager for a scania dealership for a while in Ireland. Basically everything for the 4 series is still available, and atleast over here in Ireland piston and liner kits were around €600-700. We never needed a machine shop in my time at the dealership. Head gaskets kits, piston liner kits, sump gasket, intake and exhaust manifold gaskets some other o rings were required. But really they are super simple and not all that expensive when you think that typically these engines started to leak coolant under the heads between 800-1m kilometres!
22:26 "What the heck seals the top?" The head gasket. The sleeve just friction fits at the top of the block, and when you torque the head on, the head gasket does the sealing. Bottom of the sleeve doesn't have a 90 degree mating surface, so it gets the double o-ring. You were over thinking it Edit: Update As I'm sure you've seen the discussion, visually appears to just be a surface seal with the head gasket. No upper o-ring. at 22:00 you have your pick pointed directly at the mating surface for the top of the block, it's been milled in with a tapered face right there. Advice: Set your liner back in the block without the bottom o-rings installed. Check to see if you can get wobble out of the liner at the deck. (You'll want to GENTLY tap it back in, handle of your deadblow one time would suffice) You'll also want to make sure that the liner rises slightly higher than the deck height of the block, get a book / look up those specs. It'll tell you right now if you need replacement liners or not.
@@PropperNaughtyGeezer the sleeve shims live on the machined lip at the top of the block. Honestly though, I don't think I've ever installed a set of shims on an engine built after about 1978. Regardless, shims don't seal anything, they're just spacers.
I've always appreciated the honesty in your videos. Nothing is overly edited, and you keep the fans informed of the process. Your team deserves the gold play button fo sho. 👌
Have lifts similar to those Red knob on the front where the motor is, is usually a holding vavle to manually dump the vavle to lower the lift manually. They leave those open during transport Push and then twist it in the clock wise direction to lock it in place to put the valve into service I hope that’s what it is from the brief moments i looked at it Awesome stuff man!
Ours had to be calibrated to each other on their initial use in order to make sure they all were lifting a the same speed and same amount at the same time.
Breathe Bruce! Your work ethic is obvious. We can all hear you beating your self up when frustration strikes. I’m sure we all appreciate your great work and efforts.
Engine has been rebuilt. Those are are Kolbenschmidt Pistons. The KB which you see on the inside stands for Kolbenschmidt. They are an older version as they are not having the black coating on the side.
Good catch !! The newer versions with teflon coated skirts are also more efficient... You'll see about a 30-40hp gain using the new style coated pistons on this size engine. Adding a ceramic top coating is also a great idea on a diesel rebuild to increase efficiency and increase durability
Head gasket seals between the top flange of the liner the block and the head that’s why liner protrusion is crucial! The manual calls for a small amount of rtv between the liner shim and block only a very small amount You struggled to remove the pistons because you need to remove the oil squirters first, make sure the rod didn’t bend the squirters if they did the won’t be pointed in the correct spot anymore and that will create other issues down the track. Your hoists are going backwards swap the phases around and it will work as it should
They are probably broken. I was thinking the same thing in my mind while watching the video. I wonder if they can get this engine together and working, especially without a repair manual
Correct. If the phase rotation is wrong, the motor for the hydraulic pump on your lift will rotate the wrong way. Swapping any two of the three phases around might get your lift working simply by making the hydraulic pump rotate the correct way.
Hello Bruce, new subscriber here from Eastern Ontario, Canada. Those Scania trucks just look so mean💪 When you were removing the sleeves, it reminded me when my Dad and I did an overhaul on our International 444 diesel tractor with the BD-154 engine. I made a sleeve puller out of wood and threaded rod, sitting on top of the block and a piece of wood below. We just cranked on a nut on top of the contraption I made and it popped that sleeve right out. I really enjoyed your videos when you went to the Scania factory. Glad you're replacing all the rod bearings. Take care my friend.
I Appreciate the hard shop floor work. You pretty much had the leak spotted - Wish you would have pressure washed the engine to eliminate all the dirt and grit flying around. Major care will be required on assembly…
Hi Bruce! When he removed the pistons, he put them in the order they were in the engine. The first on the left and the second on the right. He took the second one removed, that is the one on the right, and told you how it was positioned in the engine, depending on the intake and exhaust.....and he put it on the floor. You took it off the floor, so it wouldn't sit on the mess, you wiped it and put it on the tool box. Then you took it from the floor, the first one removed, you wiped it, and when he put that cloth on the floor, you put it on the cloth saying that it was removed from the second hole. But in fact, that was the one removed from the first hole, because the one from the second hole was put by you on the tool box. My opinion is that you should watch the video one more time and follow what you did with the one you took the first time and wiped it with a cloth and put it on the tool box ..... because that it is the one taken from the second hole, not from the first. Greetings from Romania!
14:00 we visit Burma years ago and on highway, countryside taxi changed lanes sometimes because there were trucks with full engine repair going on, on left lane - or where ever it happened to break down.
you can put jackstands under the front, there should be 3 screws on each side that they can rest against and lift so that the front axle hangs a little in the air, so there will be a little more space when you work under the truck. Good luck to a follower from Sweden, former mechanic for Scania.
You are gonna need to do a complete rebuild rods, mains, pistons, liners, cam and possibly machine the crank depending how it looks. Scania should have piston and liner kits available (at least they did when we sold and serviced them here back in the 1980’s.
Knocking the first wet liner out, was my classic schoolboy error! I remember when doing my apprenticeship in the 70's and the skilled mechanic training me said, because you've done so well today, I'll let you knock out the first one! Yep, wooosh! got soaked to the amusement of my trainer 😂 great videos guys, well informative & interesting. I served my time on Scania 110 & 11's back in the day. Brought back some precious memories, thank you 👍
The power is clearly phased the wrong way, you can tell by the sound of the pump running in reverse lol easy fix at the plug, thought you said an electrician wired it though
The liner seals at athe top are purely mechanical, the pressure of the head bolts and the accuracy of the block and the top of the liner. There is an enormous tool kit for cutting the seat of the block like valve seat cutters is the only comparison. The trick is, if you don't have that tool kit, to grind the liners with valve seat paste, wich is kind of hard work but the only way if you don't have that kit. I worked on Scanias for years and years (now retired0 so if you need to know anything about Scanias give me a shout. Keith
Thank you for confirming what I thought, that the cylinder head gasket does not seal, even though many here said so and I started to doubt whether I remembered wrongly. Best regards, former Scania mechanic
@@railasvuo you misread. The shims are not seals they're used to set protrusion for proper head clamping on the HEAD GASKET .... All large scale diesels are built like this with Wet Liners 👍🏻
Brilliant just Brilliant Bruce 👏 this is what we want. Also set up a patron account so we can support you... but only for the Scania project 😊 John Ireland 🇮🇪
Hi Bruce great show. Note the cylinder sleeve is a wet sleeve. The sleeves could potentially move around when you remove the piston and rod assembly and start to leak. You need a tool to crank down the sleeves before removing the piston. And you should check second to last crankbearing they are always bad, and check for cracks in the bearing seat in the block on the second to last crankbearing.
The top of the liner is sealed by the machined edge around the jug. The step at the top of the block is exactly inverse of the step on the jug when they meet absolutely no seal is required.
when you fill back the coolant you can fill from the bottom upp using the new connection that you just installed. that way its less risk that you get air trapped in some places.
Maybe try checking the phase rotation for the three phase because it matters how its wired that’s probably why the lift won’t work I would also suggest looking at troubleshooting in the owners manual
Another great video , you don’t need to spend huge amounts of money on flashy new trucks ,just keep going the way you are now as it perfect , I admire your positive attitude and your “ get the job done “ mentality
i dont know if you know, but there is i special tool for turning the engine on the flywheel 😊 its a little 1/2" socket, and it will make it a lot more easy turning the engine when you have to adjust valves 😉
So sorry you had to deal with broken new lifts Bruce! :( Hopefully they will send you a replacement ASAP!! At least the sleeve and the cylinders look in good shape, fingers crossed getting the Project Halfbreed done in one form or another! And hopefully Scania US actually answers you heh, I bet probably they will be somewhat interested in helping getting parts for the engine on your olde 144, keep up the good work and cant wait for tomorrows video! :D
The upper bearing half will almost always show more wear. I remember back in mechanic school while training in the US Army in the mid 60's, there was a Instructor from GM Diesel showed us a little demo. He left the lower bearing shell off the rods on a 4-71 2 stroke and ran it a couple minutes, to show that on a 2 stroke the lower bearing is not doing much. I can't remember what he used to hold the upper half in place so it wouldn't spin ,but with a 2 stroke the power stroke is pushing the piston with the force on the upper bearing, and on the intake stroke the crank is pushing the rod up, again with the force on the upper bearing. On a 4 stroke it is a little different, but the main load is the combustion pushing the piston down, but on the next cycle the piston is moving without a load.
I have blown the seals out of jacks by overloading them. Plastic bottle sleeve around the rod to prevent gouging. Dovell and Williams in Glen Burnie Md. used to sell Scania, and might be a resource. Fabbing up a puller for sleeves out of angle iron or hard wood when they extend beyond the block is easier on an old body, and pulling from the top. Much faster.
Hi Bruce also, when you reassemble the engine take the extra time to check the engine timing the valve timing and the injection pump set up, back in the early 2000,s I was a customer service manager for an Iveco dealership in North East Lincolnshire in the UK, whenever we needed a customer's truck fettling because of poor performance, I had a guy who was my go to fitter, his name was Willy Jacklin ( I'm sure his wife and family won't mind me mentioning him, as he passed some years ago ) a very sad loss to us all, but he never believed what the diagnostic computer was telling him until he had taken the time to thoroughly check the basics first, so engine timing valve timing and injection pump and turbo, once he'd done all this then he would see what the computer said ? 99 % of the time he was a 100 % bang on ! When customer got the truck back they couldn't believe the difference, I am sure a lot of the guys following you will say the same get the basics right and bingo
I was looking at the Conrod when you pulled the Cylinder out and Conrod Looked a little short for producing all the horsepower and torque those things are known for
As a Swede I like your v-logs , watching this in my truck in Germany 🇩🇪. Unloading in Ulm and pick up my load in Frankfurt. I’m worried about your mess in the workshop , or shall I call it “organized mess” ? Just waiting for Ville and his team to show up unexpectedly 🫣 Anyhow ; I think you have started up some wake up alarms concerning the american brands. The Cab over’s are coming back , but they have to work more on the safety. That silver coloured Scania where they swapped to manual gearbox and a tuned V8 , that would be something for you. Wondering if that law “25 years old” could be changed ? Happy New Year 🥳🍾🥂☕️🍻
That law could be changed but it's unlikely ... It works in the interest of american brands. because before the law people found out that they could skip the dealerships and buy foreign cars for cheaper by importing themselves which also hurt the sales of domestic cars... Scania could probably submit the paperwork and do the necessary tests to get their stuff validated and imported tho... but ofc that would increase the cost of a single unit i think Do take this comment with a grain of salt tho because 1) i'm not from the US and 2) I'm not part of the industry
Great video, Bruce. One of the hardest working RUclipsrs on the web. You go above and beyond for content. Keep up the good work and thanks for sharing!! Have a great New Year!!
I’d really of liked to see you check liner protrusion before you popped those liners out. Being an older high horsepower it wouldn’t seem uncommon for the block to need cut. Make sure you check it before you put it back together. And to answer your question a straight block and tight head bolts seal that machine fit. X and IBB tend to leak this way when the liners drop.
@@bgd73 The resonance is there even when it's brand spanking new, just the side effect of having a sleeved engine. While the sleeves are machined down as tight as possible on tolerances, that can still be .010 of slap at the bottom. Not a ton of deflection, but enough over time for coolant to start weeping out. Honestly, as long as the cylinder was still firing, I would have just stuck a set of new head bolts in. Torque it down, re-torque the pattern about 5lbs over, and call it a day.
@@100pyatt If you're putting it together an a sleeve won't seat above the deck, it's a bad sleeve to start with or the block is done. Sleeves should ALWAYS protrude above the block, normally by 0.0005 in. They're tapered so that they can still squish into the block as you get differential temperatures. Edit: For the record, 0.0005 is a half of a thousandth, which is a little less than the thickness of a sheet of notebook paper. Run a thumbnail across the block, it should just barely catch at the edge of the sleeve. Feels kinda like running a thumbnail across a popsicle stick.
Bruce. Invest in some manuals for the truck. That way you are not guessing or asking the crowd for questions they are quessing at too. In my early years. If i was going to work on a vehicle I didn't know. I purchased a repair manual. Over the years ive have a small library of manuals.. these days you buy a subscription to the vehicle online you are repairing. No need to ask questions to the crowds.
Okay, this was this old model that I don't have much experience with. But I know that you have to machine the upper part of the block flat (that is, the part inside the block where the liner rests) and you need adjustment plates under the liner and the correct measurement of how much it has to protrude from the block. That's probably why it has leaked because the liner is too deep in the block. And in this model, there is no o-ring at the top that seals the liner, but the liner takes care of it as long as the liner is just the right height and surfaces machined correctly. And I'm not sure if the head gasket does anything here or if it's just the liner. Someone wiser can tell you more who has experience with 14 liters. And take it easy. Label the parts properly, etc. This is not the easiest repair and for this job, I recommend getting a repair manual
@@railasvuo With all due respect mate, you opened your post with "This is old and I don't have much experience on it" I can say that a Caterpillar 500 has sleeves, I can at the exact same time say that a Caterpillar 500 doesn't have sleeves... Both are factual. Cat 500 in a '85 Peterbilt, has sleeves. Cat 500 in a '91 D8 dozer does not. From the outside, it's not real easy to spot the difference between the two engines themselves. My point is that even within the same company, inside a 6 year span, the same engine went from sleeved cylinders to solid block, but only on heavy equipment applications. Oh, and then they stuck the cat 500 with a solid block into a dodge pickup...
@@nunyabidness674 What does it matter if I didn't make these a lot, but I saw a lot of how they were made. But you know better once you've built Cat engines. Then come and tell us when you have worked with Scania engines. And these were the last 14 liter engines that Bruce has. Then Scania switched to a 16l v8 and it has a different system where is the o-ring in the cylinder sleeve and a lot of other differences
@@railasvuo My point isn't that I've worked on cat engines. My point is that just because one Scania has one engine that requires them, it doesn't mean that every single piece of equipment the company puts out will always have sleeves, or require shims for that matter. Last I checked that 6.7L cummins which Scania built doesn't need 'em... But hey, you worked there for 6 years, so you must know that... meanwhile, after 20 years of wrenching, I'll sit here and listen to how the Scania designed, Volvo owned, Cummins built D12 engines in the White GMCs are supposed to be the exact same as anything else Scania put out... and that's from 1993...
I dont know how I stumbled upon this channel (well the almighty algorithm I guess but I never watch Trucking videos on RUclips) but I am honestly hooked on your Scania series, you're doing a good mix between info, education sort of and entertainment. Some Infotainment. Very interesting to see the footage from Finland too.
Simple top tip for removing the main bearings find a bolt that fits the crankshaft oil port then buff the head down to below bearing size then manually turn crankshaft to knock bearing round and out same when refitting
A 3 ton jack is fine for cars & trucks but.... when we were working on wagons 50 years back we had a FOG big inspection pit. Because that is what we needed. That & a V large 10t bottle jack.
20:25 yeah those weird ribbed Scania liners i remember from my school excursion 24 years ago to the Scania assembly plant in Zwolle, NL.. they said ribs prevented cavitation issues..
It is a Top hat liner ,it is basically the machined surfaces that do the sealing ..Some manufacturers can supply a small 0 ring that sit at the top ,even possibly scania even though they are not fitted with it in production.Paccar MX13s also do not fit an o ring at the top but they do sell them ...Check the mating surfaces are ok as you can get cativation that rats at the mating surface and the liner can drop slightly causing the cooling system to pressurise..You can get block recut and either shimmed or a liner that is a bit deeper at the top to bring it back to spec
The liners seal the top flange to block. You need to put liners back in use head bolt an washer to press in block measure height of liner sticking out block. Low liner can cause head gadket to leak. You should remove piston oilers before pulling rods and sleeves to prevent them from getting bent and not focusing oil on correct part of piston.
@ Scania whe have metal blocks that we mount on te sleeves with a bold . Then we seal coolant holes up with silicone plugs and the put the coolant back in the engine with a pump. The metal blocks are to prevent the sleeves are coming up. This is te moment you can see if sleeves are leaking.
Hey Bruce look up Brandon 24 vowel I think you should touch base with embassy if he wants to get your mud truck if you're planning on getting rid of it if you're thinking about it He's always doing his clicking dust he couldn't actually help make it look cool
the head gasket seals the top of the sleeve. surfaces need to be more than spotless when putting everything together again. goes without saying the headgaskets are one and done so order extra.
But what kind of company delivers them without checking? That must be US quality. If he had bought Weber or Hywema. We had something like that in electro-mechanical form. There were no buttons or switches on the columns. They connected to the switch box and that was all. You could operate them outside in the rain. They were very immune to failure because there wasn't much on them that could fail. You just had to lubricate it occasionally.
This! If one device out of a few is not working then it is maybe broken…but in case all of them are not working I always ask myself double and triple if not maybe I am the broken thing hehe
Boy, don't worry. This is a test of nature. If you manage to pass this test, you'll be just as cool as your new friends from Finland in the end. You need to learn to handle everything without emotion, just like Kimi Raikkonen in Formula 1. Max Verstappen has understood this approach and has now become a three-time Formula 1 world champion. Kimi Raikkonen laid the foundation in Spain.
Now i´m just going of how the trucklift at my dads shop works and its a different brand, But in order to get the lifts moving you have to connect all 4 lifts together inorder to move the lift up and down. It´s basically a safety ting to not tip the truck over when it´s up in the air.
Somehow it seems to me that there are differences in the work between the workshop in Finland and the one in Florida. 😉 I also bet that the ones in Finland have a tool with which they can pull out the cylinder liner from above.
Had a thought. If a person put something on the bottom of the cylinder to cover it and dropped some dry ice in there then covered it up for a bit to let that sleeve get good and cold would it come out easier?
When I worked at Scania we used high lifting jacks when servicing the trucks. If you are serious about servicing trucks I would recommend you to pick up 6 used ones so you can walk underneath the vehicles. Edit, so you had that covered 😊
They have an additive for the coolant system that prevents that corrosion, the coolant filter may have the additive in it. I know Cummins does. Find out from your buddy over in Finland what your liner protrusion values are and go to the high side of them you may have to counter bore and shim them I am not sure on that motor? You may not have to worry about it, John Deere uses the finger nail test.
I am not a truck mechanic, but it looks like there is a fixed seal at the top and an o-ring seal at the bottom that accommodates the lengthening of the sleaf as it heats up.
In situations where your lift goes out, I would keep some 20ton bottle jacks on hand...Floor Jack's are obviously more stable, and can get lower reach, but I would fashion some spots into the floor to brace or bracket some bottle jacks which should be able to lift the truck in a failover scenario.
On the rod bearings and pistons ect. Don't everything need to go back in the same hole and same rod bearing. However if the rod bearing s show wear you really should replace the rod bearings. Are the O rings on the cylinder liners letting coolant into the oil pan?
The correct tool for the liners is a round metal plate with a hole, a long screw, a tube (or a metal bridge) with a nut. You can actually build it yourself. I've already done that too. Just like you.
Hey Bruce my shop has the same lifts and when we bought them the same thing happened. If you manually engage the contactor with a screw driver all the pumps work. In my case what was wrong was the phase we had in the shop. Check what is the phase your shop have
Tratter Taxi isn't in the repo lot, he's just saying that because some jealous trolls have been saying it must have been repoed. lol. It's at an audio shop getting a new sound system put in it.
@@calvinh.8882 Not doubting anything, maybe its just back at his house, but i feel like the audio system should've been done.... what a month ago? 2 months ago? lmao
you should really be pulling your piston cooling jets before moving the rod of the crank, if you bend them just a tiny little bit you could end up overheating a piston and scoring the liner and piston
Hi Bruce, I'm not sure if you've ever heard of a dude called Guy Martin before ? He's an elite level motorcycle road racer from England & he's fairly well known in these parts (Ireland & Britain). He's also a top top truck mechanic who specialises in Scania. He also loves working on them so it's as much of a hobby / passion of his as it is a job. He has tons of videos on RUclips. He'd be the oracle on Scania trucks if you want to look him up. Love the content by the way.👍
I know nothing about Scania engines but it seems pretty clear that the top of the liner is sealed by the head gasket. You really should have checked how much the liner protrudes or is recessed before pulling it and have a manual to see if it is within spec.
Bruce, dont forget to build a truck puller from this V8 beast with the Scania HUB Reduction AXLE. This "tiny" one ll not deal with the torque, A LOT OF TORQUE, that this V8 produces.
Reminded me of a friend with a old range rover he was proud that you can rebuild everything on one .my wife risking her safety said well you don't have to do it to prove it 👍
#1) check protrusion amount before pulling a liner out ..(Spec is +.20 to.30mm +/- .02mm variation max)(Cut or Shim to meet specs) I would highly urge setting to .30mm for best clamping of the HG on a high power build. It's the same concept as o-ringing your motor to pinch/clamp the HG seal as tight as possible. #2) upper liner seal .... That's the Headgasket job, Not the Shims purpose
Is the lift motors three phase if so they could be wired backwards if you swap any two of the three wires the pump motor will spin in the opposite direction if you’re wiring is out of phase you’re motor will run backwards and won’t pump the hydraulic fluid
15 years ago i bought a scissor lift from snap on.. it wasnt working from the get go.. a i wasnt mad . Cause i found chinese one for half the price and still working
I appreciate the work ethic Bruce but DO be methodical with those rods I was shouting NOOOOO when you had two rods out and two separate caps with two people handling them. Do one at a time and put the cap back on each rod. I think you may have confused the liner as "No 2" when it came out of "No 3" (although that isn't Scania piston numbering). And those pistons and liners look in excellent condition. Just keep them together! These are very straightforward engines (and trucks) so are not difficult to work on. Someone else below pointed out that its the head gasket that seals the top of the liner. Oh and never deck the heads. They never need it. Remember Oshkosh import Scania V8 engines for their fire tenders, although their new ones are 16 litre and different to the 14 litre, but they may be able to source parts. Keep up the excellent work .....
If every top rod bearing looks like that it’s probably aggressive on injection timing. If it’s just those two cylinders it’s probably fine and just squashed the bearings trying to compress coolant
Pistons are kinda interesting i was looking at a piston on a cargo ship...on RUclips..it was 11 feet long and weighed 3,000 pounnds...there were 8 of them..to get changed out..but the engine was 29 feet tall i forgot how many feet long but it had 22,000 horsepower. 😊
do not mix those overfalls, and do not hit on the contact area, they are "broken fit" and rod specific each one with only one way to fit them otherwise it may fail,
It’s a standard scania piston, part number 1397345, it even says scania on the wrist pin. A tip for when you taking out liners from the block is to mark which hole they came from and most importantly clock them so that they go back like they come out! Another tip is to get a scania engine rotation tool. It’s a little cog for the 1/2” ratchet that you spin the engine over on the flywheel
I was a parts department manager for a scania dealership for a while in Ireland. Basically everything for the 4 series is still available, and atleast over here in Ireland piston and liner kits were around €600-700. We never needed a machine shop in my time at the dealership. Head gaskets kits, piston liner kits, sump gasket, intake and exhaust manifold gaskets some other o rings were required. But really they are super simple and not all that expensive when you think that typically these engines started to leak coolant under the heads between 800-1m kilometres!
22:26 "What the heck seals the top?"
The head gasket. The sleeve just friction fits at the top of the block, and when you torque the head on, the head gasket does the sealing. Bottom of the sleeve doesn't have a 90 degree mating surface, so it gets the double o-ring.
You were over thinking it
Edit: Update
As I'm sure you've seen the discussion, visually appears to just be a surface seal with the head gasket. No upper o-ring.
at 22:00 you have your pick pointed directly at the mating surface for the top of the block, it's been milled in with a tapered face right there.
Advice:
Set your liner back in the block without the bottom o-rings installed. Check to see if you can get wobble out of the liner at the deck. (You'll want to GENTLY tap it back in, handle of your deadblow one time would suffice) You'll also want to make sure that the liner rises slightly higher than the deck height of the block, get a book / look up those specs. It'll tell you right now if you need replacement liners or not.
Aren't there still these thin metal seals with which you can adjust the installation depth?
@@PropperNaughtyGeezer the sleeve shims live on the machined lip at the top of the block. Honestly though, I don't think I've ever installed a set of shims on an engine built after about 1978. Regardless, shims don't seal anything, they're just spacers.
@@PropperNaughtyGeezer Yes. At least Scania uses these
@@nunyabidness674Yep, they are machined on the top of the liner, and seals between the top and the ledge/area about 200mm down, at the coolant seal.
The newer scania engines do have a o ring on top and the bottom of the sleeves. I did a complete liner seal with a friend like a year ago on a R730
I've always appreciated the honesty in your videos. Nothing is overly edited, and you keep the fans informed of the process. Your team deserves the gold play button fo sho. 👌
Didn't he like faked that somebody vandalised his Peterbilt and then make some fake interview with police?
@@Z4N7 yes, lets just hope he learned from his mistakes.
If you want you can get your parts here in Mexico at the scania dealerships it might be cheaper and faster
Said the same thing
Have lifts similar to those
Red knob on the front where the motor is, is usually a holding vavle to manually dump the vavle to lower the lift manually.
They leave those open during transport
Push and then twist it in the clock wise direction to lock it in place to put the valve into service
I hope that’s what it is from the brief moments i looked at it
Awesome stuff man!
😅one of those read the damn manual moments?
Oh man you can see it poking out too haha
Ours had to be calibrated to each other on their initial use in order to make sure they all were lifting a the same speed and same amount at the same time.
@@NameName-ll2yx thank you... its hard to watch.
Breathe Bruce! Your work ethic is obvious. We can all hear you beating your self up when frustration strikes. I’m sure we all appreciate your great work and efforts.
Engine has been rebuilt. Those are are Kolbenschmidt Pistons. The KB which you see on the inside stands for Kolbenschmidt. They are an older version as they are not having the black coating on the side.
Do you know many kilometers this truck had in total? He might have said it somewhere but it don't remember it.
@@MrJokkomajust as many miles are your mom has
@@MrJokkomaGo watch vid when he stopped at that other garage when was returning from Canada.
Good catch !! The newer versions with teflon coated skirts are also more efficient... You'll see about a 30-40hp gain using the new style coated pistons on this size engine. Adding a ceramic top coating is also a great idea on a diesel rebuild to increase efficiency and increase durability
Head gasket seals between the top flange of the liner the block and the head that’s why liner protrusion is crucial!
The manual calls for a small amount of rtv between the liner shim and block only a very small amount
You struggled to remove the pistons because you need to remove the oil squirters first, make sure the rod didn’t bend the squirters if they did the won’t be pointed in the correct spot anymore and that will create other issues down the track.
Your hoists are going backwards swap the phases around and it will work as it should
I hope he reads your comment.
They are probably broken. I was thinking the same thing in my mind while watching the video. I wonder if they can get this engine together and working, especially without a repair manual
Spot on 👍🏻
If your kinda new to 3 phase you might want to check your phase rotation by swappin one of the legs around if you have not yet.
Excellent suggestion
Correct. If the phase rotation is wrong, the motor for the hydraulic pump on your lift will rotate the wrong way.
Swapping any two of the three phases around might get your lift working simply by making the hydraulic pump rotate the correct way.
Scania engine block corosion is have everyone. Need clean sealant place and place new sealant
Hello Bruce, new subscriber here from Eastern Ontario, Canada. Those Scania trucks just look so mean💪 When you were removing the sleeves, it reminded me when my Dad and I did an overhaul on our International 444 diesel tractor with the BD-154 engine. I made a sleeve puller out of wood and threaded rod, sitting on top of the block and a piece of wood below. We just cranked on a nut on top of the contraption I made and it popped that sleeve right out. I really enjoyed your videos when you went to the Scania factory. Glad you're replacing all the rod bearings. Take care my friend.
Slide hammer would help when removing the liners.
I Appreciate the hard shop floor work. You pretty much had the leak spotted - Wish you would have pressure washed the engine to eliminate all the dirt and grit flying around.
Major care will be required on assembly…
Hi Bruce! When he removed the pistons, he put them in the order they were in the engine. The first on the left and the second on the right. He took the second one removed, that is the one on the right, and told you how it was positioned in the engine, depending on the intake and exhaust.....and he put it on the floor. You took it off the floor, so it wouldn't sit on the mess, you wiped it and put it on the tool box. Then you took it from the floor, the first one removed, you wiped it, and when he put that cloth on the floor, you put it on the cloth saying that it was removed from the second hole. But in fact, that was the one removed from the first hole, because the one from the second hole was put by you on the tool box. My opinion is that you should watch the video one more time and follow what you did with the one you took the first time and wiped it with a cloth and put it on the tool box ..... because that it is the one taken from the second hole, not from the first. Greetings from Romania!
But he has already forgotten which is which.
Can you repeat this one more time? I didn't hear you.
Hey i am living in Romania too nice to See some Others 😂
This is why you scribe stuff before it comes out …
14:00 we visit Burma years ago and on highway, countryside taxi changed lanes sometimes because there were trucks with full engine repair going on, on left lane - or where ever it happened to break down.
you can put jackstands under the front, there should be 3 screws on each side that they can rest against and lift so that the front axle hangs a little in the air, so there will be a little more space when you work under the truck. Good luck to a follower from Sweden, former mechanic for Scania.
You really really need a big table to work on in the shop or make one like Diesel Creek 👌🏾
Matt did a nice job on that table😁
That Vice tho 🎉
You are gonna need to do a complete rebuild rods, mains, pistons, liners, cam and possibly machine the crank depending how it looks. Scania should have piston and liner kits available (at least they did when we sold and serviced them here back in the 1980’s.
Knocking the first wet liner out, was my classic schoolboy error! I remember when doing my apprenticeship in the 70's and the skilled mechanic training me said, because you've done so well today, I'll let you knock out the first one! Yep, wooosh! got soaked to the amusement of my trainer 😂 great videos guys, well informative & interesting. I served my time on Scania 110 & 11's back in the day. Brought back some precious memories, thank you 👍
The power is clearly phased the wrong way, you can tell by the sound of the pump running in reverse lol easy fix at the plug, thought you said an electrician wired it though
The liner seals at athe top are purely mechanical, the pressure of the head bolts and the accuracy of the block and the top of the liner. There is an enormous tool kit for cutting the seat of the block like valve seat cutters is the only comparison. The trick is, if you don't have that tool kit, to grind the liners with valve seat paste, wich is kind of hard work but the only way if you don't have that kit. I worked on Scanias for years and years (now retired0 so if you need to know anything about Scanias give me a shout. Keith
Thank you for confirming what I thought, that the cylinder head gasket does not seal, even though many here said so and I started to doubt whether I remembered wrongly. Best regards, former Scania mechanic
@@railasvuo you misread. The shims are not seals they're used to set protrusion for proper head clamping on the HEAD GASKET .... All large scale diesels are built like this with Wet Liners 👍🏻
Brilliant just Brilliant Bruce 👏 this is what we want. Also set up a patron account so we can support you... but only for the Scania project 😊 John Ireland 🇮🇪
Hi Bruce great show. Note the cylinder sleeve is a wet sleeve. The sleeves could potentially move around when you remove the piston and rod assembly and start to leak. You need a tool to crank down the sleeves before removing the piston. And you should check second to last crankbearing they are always bad, and check for cracks in the bearing seat in the block on the second to last crankbearing.
The top of the liner is sealed by the machined edge around the jug. The step at the top of the block is exactly inverse of the step on the jug when they meet absolutely no seal is required.
Headgasket actually
when you fill back the coolant you can fill from the bottom upp using the new connection that you just installed. that way its less risk that you get air trapped in some places.
ChampTruex is probably right, swap 2 HOT wires on the plug on a 3 phase motor with power disconnected. The pump rotation is probably wrong.
Would like to help BUT don't do social's.
Maybe try checking the phase rotation for the three phase because it matters how its wired that’s probably why the lift won’t work I would also suggest looking at troubleshooting in the owners manual
It would also make sense if you have a look at the crank bearings
Replace mains with the rod bearings. Your new rod bearings will have a tighter clearance and will get less oil than the mains. Could spell disaster!
@@phillipschmidt3942 crankshaft bearings will not
Another great video , you don’t need to spend huge amounts of money on flashy new trucks ,just keep going the way you are now as it perfect , I admire your positive attitude and your “ get the job done “ mentality
Bedankt
i dont know if you know, but there is i special tool for turning the engine on the flywheel 😊 its a little 1/2" socket, and it will make it a lot more easy turning the engine when you have to adjust valves 😉
So sorry you had to deal with broken new lifts Bruce! :( Hopefully they will send you a replacement ASAP!! At least the sleeve and the cylinders look in good shape, fingers crossed getting the Project Halfbreed done in one form or another! And hopefully Scania US actually answers you heh, I bet probably they will be somewhat interested in helping getting parts for the engine on your olde 144, keep up the good work and cant wait for tomorrows video! :D
The upper bearing half will almost always show more wear. I remember back in mechanic school while training in the US Army in the mid 60's, there was a Instructor from GM Diesel showed us a little demo. He left the lower bearing shell off the rods on a 4-71 2 stroke and ran it a couple minutes, to show that on a 2 stroke the lower bearing is not doing much. I can't remember what he used to hold the upper half in place so it wouldn't spin ,but with a 2 stroke
the power stroke is pushing the piston with the force on the upper bearing, and on the intake stroke the crank is pushing the rod up, again with the force on the upper bearing. On a 4 stroke it is a little different, but the main load is the combustion pushing the piston down, but on the next cycle the piston is moving without a load.
Bruce have you considered downloading a workshop manual for scania. might make things easier.
And in this case, he will need to know the correct measurement of where the liner should be
I have blown the seals out of jacks by overloading them. Plastic bottle sleeve around the rod to prevent gouging. Dovell and Williams in Glen Burnie Md. used to sell Scania, and might be a resource. Fabbing up a puller for sleeves out of angle iron or hard wood when they extend beyond the block is easier on an old body, and pulling from the top. Much faster.
Hi Bruce also, when you reassemble the engine take the extra time to check the engine timing the valve timing and the injection pump set up, back in the early 2000,s I was a customer service manager for an Iveco dealership in North East Lincolnshire in the UK, whenever we needed a customer's truck fettling because of poor performance, I had a guy who was my go to fitter, his name was Willy Jacklin ( I'm sure his wife and family won't mind me mentioning him, as he passed some years ago ) a very sad loss to us all, but he never believed what the diagnostic computer was telling him until he had taken the time to thoroughly check the basics first, so engine timing valve timing and injection pump and turbo, once he'd done all this then he would see what the computer said ? 99 % of the time he was a 100 % bang on ! When customer got the truck back they couldn't believe the difference, I am sure a lot of the guys following you will say the same get the basics right and bingo
I was looking at the Conrod when you pulled the Cylinder out and Conrod Looked a little short for producing all the horsepower and torque those things are known for
If you’re going to put new liners in take a welder and run a beed up the liner wall and it will shrink it and it will come right out
As a Swede I like your v-logs , watching this in my truck in Germany 🇩🇪.
Unloading in Ulm and pick up my load in Frankfurt.
I’m worried about your mess in the workshop , or shall I call it “organized mess” ?
Just waiting for Ville and his team to show up unexpectedly 🫣
Anyhow ; I think you have started up some wake up alarms concerning the american brands.
The Cab over’s are coming back , but they have to work more on the safety.
That silver coloured Scania where they swapped to manual gearbox and a tuned V8 , that would be something for you.
Wondering if that law “25 years old” could be changed ?
Happy New Year 🥳🍾🥂☕️🍻
That law could be changed but it's unlikely ... It works in the interest of american brands. because before the law people found out that they could skip the dealerships and buy foreign cars for cheaper by importing themselves which also hurt the sales of domestic cars... Scania could probably submit the paperwork and do the necessary tests to get their stuff validated and imported tho... but ofc that would increase the cost of a single unit i think
Do take this comment with a grain of salt tho because 1) i'm not from the US and 2) I'm not part of the industry
It’s also the works of the autoworkers unions who want to protect their wallets from all of the money they skim off of their members.
Great video have a great new year
Great video, Bruce. One of the hardest working RUclipsrs on the web. You go above and beyond for content. Keep up the good work and thanks for sharing!! Have a great New Year!!
I’d really of liked to see you check liner protrusion before you popped those liners out. Being an older high horsepower it wouldn’t seem uncommon for the block to need cut. Make sure you check it before you put it back together. And to answer your question a straight block and tight head bolts seal that machine fit. X and IBB tend to leak this way when the liners drop.
Agreed the protrusion should ALWAYS be checked before liner removal
It seems the head gasket would seal the coolant in from the top of the sleeve. If that was the question.
Enjoyed the video.
yes. then you have to think of resonance on the sleeve to bother the headgasket, heads and bolts... sloppy bearings and bad rings can do both.
@@bgd73 The resonance is there even when it's brand spanking new, just the side effect of having a sleeved engine. While the sleeves are machined down as tight as possible on tolerances, that can still be .010 of slap at the bottom. Not a ton of deflection, but enough over time for coolant to start weeping out.
Honestly, as long as the cylinder was still firing, I would have just stuck a set of new head bolts in. Torque it down, re-torque the pattern about 5lbs over, and call it a day.
Sleeves could have sunk resulting in improper HG clamping .. ALWAYS check protrusion before removal of sleeve.
@@100pyatt If you're putting it together an a sleeve won't seat above the deck, it's a bad sleeve to start with or the block is done.
Sleeves should ALWAYS protrude above the block, normally by 0.0005 in. They're tapered so that they can still squish into the block as you get differential temperatures.
Edit: For the record, 0.0005 is a half of a thousandth, which is a little less than the thickness of a sheet of notebook paper. Run a thumbnail across the block, it should just barely catch at the edge of the sleeve. Feels kinda like running a thumbnail across a popsicle stick.
Admiration and respect for having a go . This is how to get through the adventure of life
, learning as you go ,great content .
Bruce. Invest in some manuals for the truck. That way you are not guessing or asking the crowd for questions they are quessing at too.
In my early years. If i was going to work on a vehicle I didn't know. I purchased a repair manual. Over the years ive have a small library of manuals.. these days you buy a subscription to the vehicle online you are repairing. No need to ask questions to the crowds.
Okay, this was this old model that I don't have much experience with. But I know that you have to machine the upper part of the block flat (that is, the part inside the block where the liner rests) and you need adjustment plates under the liner and the correct measurement of how much it has to protrude from the block. That's probably why it has leaked because the liner is too deep in the block. And in this model, there is no o-ring at the top that seals the liner, but the liner takes care of it as long as the liner is just the right height and surfaces machined correctly. And I'm not sure if the head gasket does anything here or if it's just the liner. Someone wiser can tell you more who has experience with 14 liters. And take it easy. Label the parts properly, etc. This is not the easiest repair and for this job, I recommend getting a repair manual
while I also strongly agree with the concept of "Get a manual, read the book..." not all sleeves take shims, some are taper machined.
@@nunyabidness674 But these take. I know because I worked at Scania for 6 years.
@@railasvuo With all due respect mate, you opened your post with "This is old and I don't have much experience on it"
I can say that a Caterpillar 500 has sleeves, I can at the exact same time say that a Caterpillar 500 doesn't have sleeves... Both are factual. Cat 500 in a '85 Peterbilt, has sleeves. Cat 500 in a '91 D8 dozer does not. From the outside, it's not real easy to spot the difference between the two engines themselves.
My point is that even within the same company, inside a 6 year span, the same engine went from sleeved cylinders to solid block, but only on heavy equipment applications. Oh, and then they stuck the cat 500 with a solid block into a dodge pickup...
@@nunyabidness674 What does it matter if I didn't make these a lot, but I saw a lot of how they were made. But you know better once you've built Cat engines. Then come and tell us when you have worked with Scania engines. And these were the last 14 liter engines that Bruce has. Then Scania switched to a 16l v8 and it has a different system where is the o-ring in the cylinder sleeve and a lot of other differences
@@railasvuo My point isn't that I've worked on cat engines. My point is that just because one Scania has one engine that requires them, it doesn't mean that every single piece of equipment the company puts out will always have sleeves, or require shims for that matter.
Last I checked that 6.7L cummins which Scania built doesn't need 'em... But hey, you worked there for 6 years, so you must know that...
meanwhile, after 20 years of wrenching, I'll sit here and listen to how the Scania designed, Volvo owned, Cummins built D12 engines in the White GMCs are supposed to be the exact same as anything else Scania put out... and that's from 1993...
one hell of a learning curve
I dont know how I stumbled upon this channel (well the almighty algorithm I guess but I never watch Trucking videos on RUclips) but I am honestly hooked on your Scania series, you're doing a good mix between info, education sort of and entertainment. Some Infotainment. Very interesting to see the footage from Finland too.
Simple top tip for removing the main bearings find a bolt that fits the crankshaft oil port then buff the head down to below bearing size then manually turn crankshaft to knock bearing round and out same when refitting
A 3 ton jack is fine for cars & trucks but.... when we were working on wagons 50 years back we had a FOG big inspection pit. Because that is what we needed. That & a V large 10t bottle jack.
20:25 yeah those weird ribbed Scania liners i remember from my school excursion 24 years ago to the Scania assembly plant in Zwolle, NL.. they said ribs prevented cavitation issues..
They add a ton of strength as well and surface area for cooling
Just dig a pit in your shop, 100% reliable.
Make sure theres always a camera watching the pit catch the inevitable moment something falls in😂
It is a Top hat liner ,it is basically the machined surfaces that do the sealing ..Some manufacturers can supply a small 0 ring that sit at the top ,even possibly scania even though they are not fitted with it in production.Paccar MX13s also do not fit an o ring at the top but they do sell them ...Check the mating surfaces are ok as you can get cativation that rats at the mating surface and the liner can drop slightly causing the cooling system to pressurise..You can get block recut and either shimmed or a liner that is a bit deeper at the top to bring it back to spec
The liners seal the top flange to block. You need to put liners back in use head bolt an washer to press in block measure height of liner sticking out block. Low liner can cause head gadket to leak. You should remove piston oilers before pulling rods and sleeves to prevent them from getting bent and not focusing oil on correct part of piston.
In europe, you'd be classed as a mickymouse shop. All the gear but no idea 😂😂 im here for it tho! Atleast you give it your best!
@ Scania whe have metal blocks that we mount on te sleeves with a bold . Then we seal coolant holes up with silicone plugs and the put the coolant back in the engine with a pump.
The metal blocks are to prevent the sleeves are coming up. This is te moment you can see if sleeves are leaking.
Hey Bruce look up Brandon 24 vowel I think you should touch base with embassy if he wants to get your mud truck if you're planning on getting rid of it if you're thinking about it He's always doing his clicking dust he couldn't actually help make it look cool
the head gasket seals the top of the sleeve. surfaces need to be more than spotless when putting everything together again. goes without saying the headgaskets are one and done so order extra.
Get some thick ACME thread, you could use it to pull those liners.
As mentioned by others, the pumps on your lifts are running backwards. Swapping 2 of the 3 lives over will fix it
But what kind of company delivers them without checking? That must be US quality. If he had bought Weber or Hywema.
We had something like that in electro-mechanical form. There were no buttons or switches on the columns. They connected to the switch box and that was all. You could operate them outside in the rain. They were very immune to failure because there wasn't much on them that could fail. You just had to lubricate it occasionally.
@@PropperNaughtyGeezerIt's up to the installer, to check the phase direction, not the manufacturer.
I'd have pressure washed it before taking it apart and have a paint pen with me.
Regarding the lifts - if none of them are working its probably your three phase that is the problem. Check the phase sequence and phase rotation.
This! If one device out of a few is not working then it is maybe broken…but in case all of them are not working I always ask myself double and triple if not maybe I am the broken thing hehe
Did you see the sign on the lifts that says PUT OIL BEFORE USE? Did you put oil in them?
Boy, don't worry. This is a test of nature. If you manage to pass this test, you'll be just as cool as your new friends from Finland in the end. You need to learn to handle everything without emotion, just like Kimi Raikkonen in Formula 1. Max Verstappen has understood this approach and has now become a three-time Formula 1 world champion. Kimi Raikkonen laid the foundation in Spain.
Oh man the Trator Taxi got repoed?!?! 😢 When did that happened? I totally missed that. I'm loving the Scania content. Keep up the good work!!
Yeah that caught me off guard as well
Now i´m just going of how the trucklift at my dads shop works and its a different brand, But in order to get the lifts moving you have to connect all 4 lifts together inorder to move the lift up and down. It´s basically a safety ting to not tip the truck over when it´s up in the air.
Somehow it seems to me that there are differences in the work between the workshop in Finland and the one in Florida. 😉 I also bet that the ones in Finland have a tool with which they can pull out the cylinder liner from above.
Dork
@@kodakfilm69 I'm an echo.
working on a truck with a 3ton jack!.
Had a thought. If a person put something on the bottom of the cylinder to cover it and dropped some dry ice in there then covered it up for a bit to let that sleeve get good and cold would it come out easier?
The joys of doing mechanical work over the Chrismas break & trying to find a shop open.
When I worked at Scania we used high lifting jacks when servicing the trucks. If you are serious about servicing trucks I would recommend you to pick up 6 used ones so you can walk underneath the vehicles.
Edit, so you had that covered 😊
Bruce ...it is REALLY easy to make a sleeve puller ....
They have an additive for the coolant system that prevents that corrosion, the coolant filter may have the additive in it. I know Cummins does. Find out from your buddy over in Finland what your liner protrusion values are and go to the high side of them you may have to counter bore and shim them I am not sure on that motor? You may not have to worry about it, John Deere uses the finger nail test.
I am not a truck mechanic, but it looks like there is a fixed seal at the top and an o-ring seal at the bottom that accommodates the lengthening of the sleaf as it heats up.
In situations where your lift goes out, I would keep some 20ton bottle jacks on hand...Floor Jack's are obviously more stable, and can get lower reach, but I would fashion some spots into the floor to brace or bracket some bottle jacks which should be able to lift the truck in a failover scenario.
On the rod bearings and pistons ect. Don't everything need to go back in the same hole and same rod bearing. However if the rod bearing s show wear you really should replace the rod bearings. Are the O rings on the cylinder liners letting coolant into the oil pan?
When i see you, i remember time, when i repairing trucks engine too. Every days just new things. Great job.
The correct tool for the liners is a round metal plate with a hole, a long screw, a tube (or a metal bridge) with a nut. You can actually build it yourself. I've already done that too. Just like you.
The rodbearings are a nobrainer once your that far
Love the euro truck content !
Hey Bruce my shop has the same lifts and when we bought them the same thing happened. If you manually engage the contactor with a screw driver all the pumps work. In my case what was wrong was the phase we had in the shop. Check what is the phase your shop have
Why the hell is the tator taxi in the repo lot for ?
😂
Tratter Taxi isn't in the repo lot, he's just saying that because some jealous trolls have been saying it must have been repoed. lol. It's at an audio shop getting a new sound system put in it.
@@calvinh.8882 ssssshhhhhhh man
@@calvinh.8882 Not doubting anything, maybe its just back at his house, but i feel like the audio system should've been done.... what a month ago? 2 months ago? lmao
@@LowKeyIdiots Well, If it was repoed it won't be back. So when it's back you'll know it wasn't repoed. lmao.
Swap 2 wires on the lift power been there done that pump spinning backwards im thinking
you should really be pulling your piston cooling jets before moving the rod of the crank, if you bend them just a tiny little bit you could end up overheating a piston and scoring the liner and piston
Hi Bruce, I'm not sure if you've ever heard of a dude called Guy Martin before ? He's an elite level motorcycle road racer from England & he's fairly well known in these parts (Ireland & Britain). He's also a top top truck mechanic who specialises in Scania. He also loves working on them so it's as much of a hobby / passion of his as it is a job. He has tons of videos on RUclips. He'd be the oracle on Scania trucks if you want to look him up. Love the content by the way.👍
I know nothing about Scania engines but it seems pretty clear that the top of the liner is sealed by the head gasket. You really should have checked how much the liner protrudes or is recessed before pulling it and have a manual to see if it is within spec.
Bruce, dont forget to build a truck puller from this V8 beast with the Scania HUB Reduction AXLE. This "tiny" one ll not deal with the torque, A LOT OF TORQUE, that this V8 produces.
Reminded me of a friend with a old range rover he was proud that you can rebuild everything on one .my wife risking her safety said well you don't have to do it to prove it 👍
My nephew has a boat in 1907. With a Scania 6 cylinder inline. I think it's a 113.
Check the crankshaft for damage too.
#1) check protrusion amount before pulling a liner out ..(Spec is +.20 to.30mm +/- .02mm variation max)(Cut or Shim to meet specs) I would highly urge setting to .30mm for best clamping of the HG on a high power build. It's the same concept as o-ringing your motor to pinch/clamp the HG seal as tight as possible.
#2) upper liner seal .... That's the Headgasket job, Not the Shims purpose
Is the lift motors three phase if so they could be wired backwards if you swap any two of the three wires the pump motor will spin in the opposite direction if you’re wiring is out of phase you’re motor will run backwards and won’t pump the hydraulic fluid
15 years ago i bought a scissor lift from snap on.. it wasnt working from the get go.. a i wasnt mad . Cause i found chinese one for half the price and still working
I appreciate the work ethic Bruce but DO be methodical with those rods I was shouting NOOOOO when you had two rods out and two separate caps with two people handling them. Do one at a time and put the cap back on each rod. I think you may have confused the liner as "No 2" when it came out of "No 3" (although that isn't Scania piston numbering). And those pistons and liners look in excellent condition. Just keep them together!
These are very straightforward engines (and trucks) so are not difficult to work on. Someone else below pointed out that its the head gasket that seals the top of the liner. Oh and never deck the heads. They never need it.
Remember Oshkosh import Scania V8 engines for their fire tenders, although their new ones are 16 litre and different to the 14 litre, but they may be able to source parts.
Keep up the excellent work .....
Great job removing the oil pan guys!
Hi Bruce, since you sometimes perform at various auto festivals, buy yourself a Soviet Kirovets K-700 or K-701 tractor on the east side of Germany
GRAT JOB GUYS LOVE YOU ALL
Hey boss, did you check rotation and make sure your disconnect is using the right fuses ?
When and why was the blue truck repoed. I guess I missed that video.
If every top rod bearing looks like that it’s probably aggressive on injection timing. If it’s just those two cylinders it’s probably fine and just squashed the bearings trying to compress coolant
Pistons are kinda interesting i was looking at a piston on a cargo ship...on RUclips..it was 11 feet long and weighed 3,000 pounnds...there were 8 of them..to get changed out..but the engine was 29 feet tall i forgot how many feet long but it had 22,000 horsepower. 😊
Why would you not pressure wash the engine before tear down? Also need to replace the rod bolts.
do not mix those overfalls, and do not hit on the contact area, they are "broken fit" and rod specific each one with only one way to fit them otherwise it may fail,