Enya NovaGo Saddle Replace
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- Опубликовано: 22 июл 2024
- I absolutely LOVE this little guitar. But the action (and intonation) is a bit off. The action is pretty high, and the stock bridge saddle is not compensated. As a result, the intonation is slightly off on the higher frets. Let's hope that this compensated saddle will correct these minor issues.
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Watched your video yesterday deciding whether to measure and order a saddle replacement, my intonation wasn't too off, and it being angled I decided to wait, I sanded the bottom of mine with sharp black 320 wet stuck to a smooth block, sanded 1.5 to 2 off then sanded up to 1500 grit so it would be as smooth as it was. It brought it from touching the 3.5 mark on the rocker gauge down to centered a hair above 2 on the upper frets on low E. Much closer and I'd be pushing it on high E. Anyways I also swapped in a set of D'Addario silk and steel Lights and slightly backed off the truss rod, Allen key was at 2 o'clock looking straight down headstock and I backed it off to about 11 o clock due to lighter strings and it seemed to have high relief. I'm a newb so baby steps. Seemed to work. No buzzing after several stretch and tunes. Notes are correct on 12 if I tune open notes to the first showing of green on my snark. Sounds correct but I'm no savant.
I was super happy with the silk and steel strings though. They're a little less brassy And zingy, I can still pluck a sharp enough sound where I want. It plays a lot easier and I'm hoping it'll make the lady want to pick it up more, I've been encouraging her to learn with me. Barring on the first fret requires significantly less effort. Though this sort of thing doesn't influence my opinions, I swear, some might prefer the silken steel just because of how it looks on a black carbon fiber guitar. Other than the white saddle everything is either black or silver.
Great comment. Thank you. Lots of good info here, so I decided to pin it. As the setup worked in and with tiny adjustments to the truss rod, the intonation issue at the 12th is pretty much gone. The strobe tuner still shows it very slightly sharp on the B and high E strings, but you really have to listen for it. So I think I am going to leave the truss rod where it is for now. I gotta say this little guitar is a definite keeper...even with my fat fingers, LOL.
I think I might give those Silk and Steel strings a go someday. Sounds like they work well with the NovaGo. Worth a try anyway. I have actually been entertaining trying an ebony saddle someday. Could be an interesting experiment.
Thanks again for the great comment. Keep on playing.
I bought a black Bone bridge for mine I have a wheel sander that works fast and easier and mine is the Nova one so it has a pickup that's not pezo. Keep jamming
Cool video!!!. I will be doing this next weeks as well on an Enya Xpro3 . I am going to swap out the pins to Brass... they make is a smidge more trebbilly (real word). Just ordered a new saddle to mess around with :)
a very cheerful man ))
Good Job! Very enjoyable video - thanks!
Thank you.
Great video! Your channel would probably do better if you replied to questions asked in the comments. I just received my Nova Go and was looking for videos. How to make the saddle would be great information, i.e. specs, etc
Thanks for the feedback. You are right, I have kind of neglected this video for some reason. Sorry about that.
As to the dimensions of the saddle, I really didn't make a note of them as I machined it down. Also, every guitar (and player) will be slightly different, What works well for one instrument and playing style might not necessarily be ideal for another. I did use a compensated bone saddle for this. (I keep several of them on hand in the shop.) You can order a compensated saddle online. Once you have it, the only thing that you really have to do is sand/machine it down to fit and keep a reasonable string height. Keep the bottom as flat as possible. You want as much of a contact between the saddle and bridge as possible. A straight edge can help with keeping it flat. My advice on that is to do a little at a time. You can always take more off if needed. Take too much and you will be buying another saddle. It can be shimmed, but I don't recommend that. Just work patiently and I think you will be satisfied with the results.
Thanks again for the feedback, and best luck to you. Hope you enjoy your NovaGo as much as I like mine.
the belt strap on the shoulder broke off from mine, just like that. Is this fixable? Thank you! Great video!
Nice job. Do you have one for sale? Also any ideas for bridge pin replacement? I played with bone in a standard size. The stock plastic pins don’t fill the hole. They seem to only get tight at the bottom. Thanks, great vid.
Sorry to say, I do not have any of these for sale. The saddles can be purchased online. I would recommend getting a bone replacement. It will most likely need some sanding/shaping in order to keep a proper string height.
As to the bridge pins. I am still using the stock ones that came with the guitar. If you want to replace them, I believe any standard bridge pins should work.
nice video, thanks 👍
Thanks. Much appreciated.
Some capos have the pin remover on the end.
Thank you for the video. Do you have the measurements of the saddle for the Nova Go? I want to order a compensated saddle knowing I may have to sand a bit.
Sorry I did not note the dimensions on the new one. I can say that the intonation is better now. It wasn't really that bad before. I think it was more because of the height that was stretching the strings slightly sharp. And yes, the compensated bone saddle I bought was quite tall, but with some machining and sanding, it is tamed down now.
Mine was 10,2/11.0 mm at the ends. Have sanded it to 8.8/9.8 and dont think anything lower would work on this guitar.
I would say that standard saddles from Amazon will not fit. Need to order higher version (for 12-string for example) and do some sanding.
Your capo was too low on the strings to hold them properly. What are the measurements of the saddle?
Mine has a pre drilled hole for a piezo? Yours?
Yes, the same. Forgot to mention this in the video. You can actually see it in some of the overhead shots. Makes it nice if a person decides to install an under saddle pickup.
I think they actually use the same body for their piezo version as well.
It seems that the Neck it a bit Chunky or fat is that true ?
Actually, I find the neck to be a little on the skinny side. Doesn't really feel clunky to me. It is a little crowded near the nut with my fat fingers, but otherwise it is quite comfortable to play.
@@NJP76 Thank you for this explain
So. Taking out a bone saddle to put a plastic one in. Interesting. Good thing we all have a CNC machine so we can do likewise.
A compensated plastic saddle, will always be better than an uncompensated bone saddle. Also, bone was at one time a great material, but modern cattle bone has tiny fractures in them, because the cattle industry makes the cows bigger than their bones are designed to handle. Most luthiers actually use kobe beef bones from overseas because of this. And I absolutely guarantee that this one did not have kobe beef bones. It had whatever. Antler is also used. But a basic saddle with no form of measurements toward intonation, is absolutely inferior to a compensated saddle, no matter the materials used.