2:20 "And I know with the age of this [the spark amplifier], I wanna rebuild it regardless of anything else." - While I do understand what you're saying here, this approach has severely bitten me just a couple of weeks ago. The Volvo of my partner was misfiring, so he diagnosed that it was one of the ignition coils (by swapping two and seeing if the misfire goes to the other cylinder as well). I recommended to replace the gasket under the VVT solenoid, which has a little screen that often dirty. He cleaned the VVT solenoid as well and replaced the ignition coil and when the car was started, it ran absolutely terrible and wasn't really able to hold idle. But now we had a problem: We possibly introduced another problem to the one we already had! In the end nothing was faulty, but the car just had really unfortunate adaptation values stored in the ECU. We unhooked the battery for 10 minutes and afterwards the car ran and idled fine. But we learned: Don't introduce new variables, because then you don't know what to look for 😅😅
A better strategy is to absolutely not tamper with any of the components and not replace anything before the error is located. This the absolute inverse of how to investigate a crime scene. For every thing tampered you have no clue if more errors are introduced. And about spark frequency of of course you can see flicker at cranking speed. First test is to check ignition coil input voltage flickers. If not you know anything driving the coil or generating pulses is the next step. If voltage flickers driving the coil you cold also check the coil has a low resistance and then has a primary winding. If coil draw current and it pulsates you go for the ignition cables and distributor. As it failed for one day to the other look for single point of failure. All 12 sparkplugs and their cables cannot be faulty at the same time. And so on.
This video is an absolute godsend haha, there's very little information about the lucas ignition system on RUclips so thanks for that. But ill probably be switching to the mobek independent system as it is basically modern reliable ignition and fueling without all the vacuum operated nonsense
After a great deal of effort with my 89’XJS that would also turn over though the fuel pump was working, their was a spark, and working distributor, turned out the ECU computer in the trunk near the antenna was bad. Took me three months to figure it out and $$ with my Jag mechanic.
My 1984 V12 has the one coil as per your video, but also another one mounted in front of the radiator away from all the heat inside the V of the engine
This one still had that second coil also in front of the radiator. From what I can tell it was decomissioned and wiring disconnected, with the single coil in use. That appears to be a fairly common "upgrade" - a modern more potent coil that can replace the dual coil setup. Time will tell if it's as reliable though!
I wonder if you had similar issue I did re replacement pick up coil and link lead. The new pick up replacements seem to be wired incorrectly - compare old wiring to new before installation.
2:20 "And I know with the age of this [the spark amplifier], I wanna rebuild it regardless of anything else." - While I do understand what you're saying here, this approach has severely bitten me just a couple of weeks ago.
The Volvo of my partner was misfiring, so he diagnosed that it was one of the ignition coils (by swapping two and seeing if the misfire goes to the other cylinder as well). I recommended to replace the gasket under the VVT solenoid, which has a little screen that often dirty. He cleaned the VVT solenoid as well and replaced the ignition coil and when the car was started, it ran absolutely terrible and wasn't really able to hold idle.
But now we had a problem: We possibly introduced another problem to the one we already had!
In the end nothing was faulty, but the car just had really unfortunate adaptation values stored in the ECU. We unhooked the battery for 10 minutes and afterwards the car ran and idled fine.
But we learned: Don't introduce new variables, because then you don't know what to look for 😅😅
A better strategy is to absolutely not tamper with any of the components and not replace anything before the error is located.
This the absolute inverse of how to investigate a crime scene.
For every thing tampered you have no clue if more errors are introduced.
And about spark frequency of of course you can see flicker at cranking speed.
First test is to check ignition coil input voltage flickers.
If not you know anything driving the coil or generating pulses is the next step.
If voltage flickers driving the coil you cold also check the coil has a low resistance and then has a primary winding.
If coil draw current and it pulsates you go for the ignition cables and distributor.
As it failed for one day to the other look for single point of failure. All 12 sparkplugs and their cables cannot be faulty at the same time.
And so on.
This video is an absolute godsend haha, there's very little information about the lucas ignition system on RUclips so thanks for that. But ill probably be switching to the mobek independent system as it is basically modern reliable ignition and fueling without all the vacuum operated nonsense
Lucas killed British Leyland Very unreliable electrical componants saw far too many new and late model cars parked on the side of the road
The resistors on the little box on top of the intake
After a great deal of effort with my 89’XJS that would also turn over though the fuel pump was working, their was a spark, and working distributor, turned out the ECU computer in the trunk near the antenna was bad. Took me three months to figure it out and $$ with my Jag mechanic.
Great info keep it on the road
You cant use V12 Jaguars because they all drop valve seats after a while!
My 1984 V12 has the one coil as per your video, but also another one mounted in front of the radiator away from all the heat inside the V of the engine
This one still had that second coil also in front of the radiator. From what I can tell it was decomissioned and wiring disconnected, with the single coil in use. That appears to be a fairly common "upgrade" - a modern more potent coil that can replace the dual coil setup. Time will tell if it's as reliable though!
I wonder if you had similar issue I did re replacement pick up coil and link lead. The new pick up replacements seem to be wired incorrectly - compare old wiring to new before installation.
It is not milli ohms, 16:25, it is mega ohms, a very high resistance.
16:27 The rading is MOhm, which is Megaohms, not Milliohms (mOhm) :)
But I'm sure it was just a slip of the tongue.
Yes indeed! I also didn't catch and note it, so great catch!
I cannot find the rebuild video of the AB-14 please direct me to it, thank you!
Here you go: ruclips.net/video/BreBqYSBBqs/видео.html
Dont use any HE V12 engine, the heads from.1981 on had india Made components and drop valve seats
A capital m in the ohms reading is mega ohms.