Hi Everybody! And here is my hardwire installation video ruclips.net/video/uZp95NbNlmM/видео.html and here is my video on how to install Fuse Taps ruclips.net/video/Qzw9yUYN7zo/видео.html Hope this helps, Cheers!
Had this exact problem as my car uses a low profile mini fuse. Was nervous about doing this because I'm no car guy so I don't want to accidently fry something. But this gave me enough confidence to try it out myself. Ty
You're welcome Wicked! glad to hear it helped! and here is the follow up video for it in case it helps ruclips.net/video/zbxYA4VhuT8/видео.html and thanks for watching bud!
For everyone interested how the parking mode of such a hardwire kit works: I've mounted an USB cable breakout and attached the multimeter to the breakout ports. As long as the ignition (ACC, clamp 15) is off, there is +5V on the USB VCC wire. If the ignition is switched on, there is additionally +5V on the ID wire (wire 4) of the mini USB plug. The Dashcam must be enabled for "Parking mode" and when enabled, the Dashcam is in "parking mode" when there's only VCC, and in "drive mode" with both VCC + ID on +5 Volts. On primary side I found the voltage converter of the kit to consume 5 Milliamps when running idle (no dashcam connected). I'll add figures for power consumption in parking and drive mode here as soon as I've finished my dashcam project and mounted my cam again in the car. Sidenote: I had a Dmyco dashcam with 2.5k resolution which failed after 1 year in the car. I now bought a Vantop H610 which looks very identical to the Dmyco and found that the firmware of the VanTop is better than the Dmyco version. My Dmyco rear cam works well with the Vantop device, as well as the Dmyco's GPS mouse which I curiously plugged into the VanTop's "sealed" GPS plug hole. As Amazon was so friendly to not force me to unmount all the Dmyco stuff I built into the car, I now have a Dmyco hardwire kit, a Dmyco GPS mouse, a VanTop dashcam, a Dmyco rear cam, and an additional VanTop rear cam (maybe I build a splitter for reverse gear to switch the cam). As I got the broken Dmyco refunded and the VanTop dashcam was cheaper, the whole setup saved me now 30 Euros/dollars and I got a second rear cam... :-)
Hi srh2301! Man thanks for so much for this information, this is great info, I gotten this question before and while I had an idea of how it work I did not know the actual details of it. Thanks for sharing bud!
This video is awesome. Very informative. Everything is being explained without skipping over anything. No matter how tiny the details are, they’re all being explained so well perfectly.
I have been banging my head off my desk about the exact same thing wondering why the didn't just make both disconnects too. All along thinking i'm misunderstanding or doing things wrong. THANKYOU VERY MUCH.
Same here! I kept thinking like I was a moron because I could not wrap my head around how all of this was supposed to connect without buying an addition fuse tap.
Thanks Jaime! regarding the kits with only 2 power wires, those for the most part are on all the time, regardless if the car is on or off. Some dashcams work ok like that but they probably won't go into park mode as the camera does not know when the car is off. On the kit with 3 power wires the dashcam is able to tell that car has been turned off and is parked (this enables on the parking mode). Hope this helps bud!
Thanks for the video, very helpful... pretty weak that the red wire has that hard wired connection and i need the low profile one. So i had to buy the 4 pack off of amazon for this power supply and splice it in.
You're welcome CafassoFam! Yes I have to agree with you, the good thing is at least the extra fuses are not that expensive (in my case I had to buy the micro fuse tap). The joys of car manufacturers that keep changing their fuse sizes LoL!
@@AlexAutoFun i blame the idiot mfg of the power supply for not making both wires the same way so that the end user can pick the fuse tap that best suits them. Why do it half ways and then make us buy extra pieces to actually make it work. Gotta leave a bad review for this item.
Great video. I am wondering just like you why there isn’t an extra set of taps for the other wire. I tried a rove universal kit and it didn’t work for the Vantop mirror. I just ordered the kit from Vantop and will use your video as a guide. What amp size do I need for the dash cam?
Thanks Mike! yeah I wish both side had taps. That's interesting you mention the Rove kit as I'm about to review it and I want to test it out on both a Rove dashcam and a Vantop one, so appreciate the heads up on it. Regarding the fuse size, you want to stick with the fuse size Vantop included in the kit which are the blue fuses at 15amps. Hope this helps and thanks for watching!
@@AlexAutoFun thanks for the reply. It’s the Rove ultimate hardwire kit. So I will use 15 amp fuses for both battery and ACC taps, does it matter if I pick a 10amp unused slot in my fuse box? In other words, I have a 10amp fuse currently in the box that is labeled as a spare. Thanks in advance!
@@mikek568 You would want to stick with the original fuse amp value that came out of your car, so if you are taking over a spot that used a 10amp fuse then you would want to use 10amp on the fuse tap 1st slot (seen at the 2:00 mark) and then the 15amp for the dash cam power on the 2nd slot...
Yeah I'm still sort of scratching my head, I've been a bit confused as I'm doing all this stuff for the first time. Points you didn't really cover that could use a visual example with just pointing at your car, constant and acc fuse slot, so we use one that's just open or do we pull a used one and reinsert the fuse into the tap, and the black wire grounded bolt example of where it's going cause if that's mean to be in my engine bay... Well I have 2 fuse boxes, 1 in engine one next to glove box
Hi Shane!, I'm working a follow up video detailing the installation process on the car. Regarding the question of the fuse position, it will vary from car to car, sometimes they do have free spaces available and sometimes they don't which requires to pull a used one. As soon as the next video is up I will let you know bud!
@@AlexAutoFun not to mention, well being honest I've never pulled / inserted a fuse before as it's my first car I'm working on myself, just using patience and common sense to recognize when youre a little stumped and seek advice before doing something that could end up costing you alot more than you tried to save. Found that I think I need the mini fusetap, but no matter which way I flipped the tap, the fuse wouldn't slot in. I researched more on the grounding concept, and yeah a quick finger point to a bolt (there's I think usually a paint free metal bolt onto metal next to all fuse boxes, not surprised if this was considered by companies already) I had it in my head I may need to ground it to the negative terminal on the battery for some silly reason as I don't have much electronical experience other than can do attitude, reverse engineering videos and patience, albeit frustrations lol. With my fuse box I have around 1/3 of the slots empty, however as you said test it i have a cheapish tool, typical found in the garage dollar store pen thingy with a connection to plug into it that came with fuses so I'm thinking it's enough for now to make sure the slot is getting constant and acc power, but curiously, the taps have two slots to them.... Is that so you can put the vantop supplied mini fuse in, and of you want to double up a slot, you can put the one you removed into the double tap? Or just stick them in empty ones. In guessing for the most part a 15 fuse is a solid middle ground of giving enough battery when needed, not every tiny tap is going to set camera off and drain battery as I only really use the parking sensor on low, when it's parked. For some reason my mirror turns on for now reason frequently, unsure of it's translating my music or it's bumps. Turned off Gsensor completely till I mount the rear camera which on my car I've deduced it's best location is actually outside of the rear window drilled under the boot spoiler in front/middle of rear boot brake light to avoid your windows orange antifog lines, tinting etc, yet it still gets reasonable rain protection and since it's about 30cm further back than the license plate and raised, I have a much better range for the rear steam during night driving as my rear view is near non existent and my model has a couple of big blind spots so that camera is really going to get used to replace my mirrors with a glance and double check over my shoulder. Also I'm guessing you purchased the 10 or 12 series. I picked up the 12 as I didn't see the price difference as that much but older models are just getting dated already In image quality. How did you combat the digital mirror vibration when your car runs in comparison to the perfectly still factory mirror, only time it doesnt vibrate for me is when I pull it forward a bit but I've already gently put straps onto the tighter notch. Only thing I can "cheaply" and decently solve this is get some blue Tak (well I'll get it in black for a few $ more and I like symmetry so a light blue tac will be ugly when noticed) and use it to push the vantop out a bit from the OEM reverse mirror and just use a small tool to just smooth the bluetac where visible. And am I the only one disappointed we don't have the option to stream the reverse camera in 4k and front in 2k if required.... Is there a rear camera that would do it and is compatible? FHD is fine but... Sure UHD isn't much to swap in, though I'm guessing the mirror software would block it.... May be I'll need add a second camera at the plate and swap the headunit for a touch screen and use the second as the reverse cam and detach the spoiler camera from the reverse power line - from brief memory this is the first real video on the kit so you'll get many like me dropping in ;)
In terms of the video, was easy to follow up until the end when I'm like, there's a minute left that quickly shows the steps for clarification right? Just thinking in terms of "YT content creation" till that video goes up we're googling my confusion when you could keep everyone here in one video. My content is more vlogging, I'm not phased about giving exact tutorials as I don't want anyone thinking I'm telling them how to do it and my way will work for you. Anyway, good start, guessing editing tool you twice as long as organise and filming / editing the video 😆 good work though, easy enough to follow just need to add FAQs to points that will commonly come up and I think this is the only video with the vantop hardwire kit (though I do realize alot of options are half the price and would of done the same thing in terms of wiring kits, but $14 more wasn't an issue for piece of mind)
Hi Enernest, Yes I noticed that it sells out fast, they bring more and they sell out again lol the V9F should very similarly, I may just order one to compare to the V9H and make a video on it. I do have other videos coming up on other hardwire kits that I'm testing stay tuned bud!
On the new fuse tap you added how many amps should I put. I noticed the one you cut was blue. I bought the new tap only come with a 10 red and 20 yellow amps fuse.
Hi, I have this and a vivilink dash cam. I have an Audi A4 that use the largest fuse of the four provided. Do I need to also install the red ACC fuse? Bc it doesn’t fix and I really don’t want to have slice it and etc
Hi Nhat Nguyen! Yes the ACC wire is required for the dash cam to work correctly, what's unfortunate is that they didn't made the kit with a quick disconnect so we can change the size as needed. On this other video I made ruclips.net/video/wAad_JA7kz8/видео.html I show another way that installers change the size without splicing at the 9:50 mark if you want to see that method. Hope this helps and thanks for watching!
@@AlexAutoFun yes, wish they made the Acc wire the same as the other with options. Now I need to splice it, do you know where I can buy the similar big fuse wire to splice with the current? Thank you so much
Hey again! So I just finished installing my vivilink dash cam yesterday. I had to change the red ACC fuse plug to another type as the one that came with the kit did not fit my tundra. My tundra uses the low profile mini. So I had to go to the auto parts store down the street and all they had was one rated for 10 amps at the highest. I'm just kind of confused because the one that comes with the kit is a 15 amp fuse that is molded into the fuse plug. And I removed a 7.5 amp fuse from my ACC port. Will the 10 amp fuse on the new fuse block that I had to splice in be enough power for the dash cam or should I order a 15 amp fuse block? Also does it matter that I replaced the 7.5 amp fuse in my ACC port with a 10 amp fuse? Just concerned about getting the correct amount of power to the dash cam and also to my truck. Thank you for any help Hope this makes sense!
Hi Daniel! Ahh yes good question, if you had to remove the molded ACC like I did and replaced with another fuse tap size, you will want to follow same order as seen at the 1:57 where I show the location of the original fuse and the location of the dashcam fuse into the fuse tap. If the fuse you removed from your car is 7.5 amp then you want to stay with the 7.5 amp, the fuse for the dashcam should also stay the same, the fuse on the molded plug is 15 amp, so you will want to stay with 15 amp for the dashcam. Hope this helps and thanks for watching!
@@AlexAutoFun That makes sense I'll try that thank you! I ordered a 15 amp fuse tap from Amazon so hopefully that will fix the problem. Also I noticed after I installed everything in the kit that now my mirrors don't work or my radio doesn't work lol.
@@djordan7979 You're welcome Daniel! I will have another video coming where I go more into details for the fuse taps including the issues you are seeing which I see on some cars, sometimes it's as easy as re-installing the fuse tap in the opposite direction and sometimes is just the circuit is sensitive to adding more to it, stay tuned bud!..
@@AlexAutoFun So I just finished wiring everything up perfectly and it still wouldn't work correctly... I was dumbfounded. And then I thought hmmm maybe let me try switching the yellow wire to ACC and the red wire to constant and see what happens and sure enough that was the problem. Works perfectly now. I don't know why mine is reversed but it is. Even my hardware kit booklet says yellow to constant and red to ACC but mine is backwards. Do you know why that would be?
@@djordan7979 Hi Daniel! that is odd! lol I normally confirm with a voltmeter if the fuse location that I'm going to use for ACC is in fact turning on only when the key is turned to accessory and then I also check the BATT fuse location and confirm it has power all the time, this way I can eliminate that as a possible issue. It also lets me confirm with side of the fuse will be the 'hot" side as the fuse tape will only work correctly in one orientation (even thought I can fit 2 ways) since the correct orientation varies from car to car...
Hi Genero! yes you could go direct to battery, as long as you keep the inline fuse they included for safety. However it may be better if it's connected to a switched power source so the dashcam knows when the car is on or off. Hope this helps!
Hi Raul! I usually recommend sticking to the same manufacturer, so Vantop kit for Vantop dash cams and Wolfbox kit for Wolfbox dashcams. That being said, I do like how the Vantop comes with some fuse taps, however not enough to install it if your car size does not match the molded one. So in a way even thought it comes with a few fuse taps with either of this kits it is likely you will still have to buy an additional set of fuse taps to be able to install it (links to them in the video description). Hope this helps and thanks for watching!
@@AlexAutoFun Thanks for the prompt reply, that is a lot of good information, get back to me when you set it up in a Chevy Silverado 1500, Thanks again.
Does anybody know how this hardwire kit works on USB side? I understand that there are the PLUS and GND wires in the USB cable, but what changes when ACC is on / off? Does the device send any information on the data lines of the USB?
Hi srh2301! Your correct, the dash cam uses different power in different pins for it to know that the car has been turned off. The actual pin outs are typically proprietary to different manufacturers and some are universal. Garmin is one of the dash cams that controls this information making harder for aftermarket hardwire kits to be developed for it, so it just depends from dash cam to dash cam. Hope that makes sense and thanks for watching bud!
Hi Carnard! Yes if the car does not have a spare fuse position to install the ACC fuse, the molded fuse (ACC) would have to be cut off and replaced with a fuse tap as shown around 3:50 Hope this helps bud!
@@AlexAutoFun hopefully this makes sense. i cut off the acc and added a fuse tap. i remember at the beginning you said to put the original fuse in the first slot and the other fuse from the camera in the second slot. but my camera only came with one. what do i put in the rear section of the other fuse tap.
Hi Big Boss! The black wire provides the negative power and the red wire provides the positive power to the device. If your hardwire kit did not come labeled with GND, it may be labeled as negative or with the negative sign "-" Check the instruction that came with it, it may shed some light on this, hope this helps bud and thanks for watching!
Hi Chris DuBos! It could be this issue I covered on my latest video here ruclips.net/video/trpMjXbjOcU/видео.html or the power supply for it may be failing, If you are hardwired I would try the cigarette lighter plug to see if it works correctly which would confirm a bad hardwire kit. If you are running the cigarette lighter adapter then I would use a power bank (capable of 2.5A) to confirm if the cigarette plug has failed. Hope this helps, Cheers!
Hi Tony! All 3 wires are required to be connected only if Parking Mode is desired. The dashcam will still work with only the main 2 power wires connected but it won't know when the car is turned off and some dashcams need to know this to enable parking mode. Here is a follow up video on the hardwire process if it helps ruclips.net/video/zbxYA4VhuT8/видео.html Thanks for watching Tony!
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Hi Everybody! And here is my hardwire installation video ruclips.net/video/uZp95NbNlmM/видео.html and here is my video on how to install Fuse Taps ruclips.net/video/Qzw9yUYN7zo/видео.html Hope this helps, Cheers!
Had this exact problem as my car uses a low profile mini fuse. Was nervous about doing this because I'm no car guy so I don't want to accidently fry something. But this gave me enough confidence to try it out myself. Ty
You're welcome Wicked! glad to hear it helped! and here is the follow up video for it in case it helps ruclips.net/video/zbxYA4VhuT8/видео.html and thanks for watching bud!
For everyone interested how the parking mode of such a hardwire kit works: I've mounted an USB cable breakout and attached the multimeter to the breakout ports. As long as the ignition (ACC, clamp 15) is off, there is +5V on the USB VCC wire. If the ignition is switched on, there is additionally +5V on the ID wire (wire 4) of the mini USB plug. The Dashcam must be enabled for "Parking mode" and when enabled, the Dashcam is in "parking mode" when there's only VCC, and in "drive mode" with both VCC + ID on +5 Volts.
On primary side I found the voltage converter of the kit to consume 5 Milliamps when running idle (no dashcam connected). I'll add figures for power consumption in parking and drive mode here as soon as I've finished my dashcam project and mounted my cam again in the car.
Sidenote: I had a Dmyco dashcam with 2.5k resolution which failed after 1 year in the car. I now bought a Vantop H610 which looks very identical to the Dmyco and found that the firmware of the VanTop is better than the Dmyco version. My Dmyco rear cam works well with the Vantop device, as well as the Dmyco's GPS mouse which I curiously plugged into the VanTop's "sealed" GPS plug hole. As Amazon was so friendly to not force me to unmount all the Dmyco stuff I built into the car, I now have a Dmyco hardwire kit, a Dmyco GPS mouse, a VanTop dashcam, a Dmyco rear cam, and an additional VanTop rear cam (maybe I build a splitter for reverse gear to switch the cam). As I got the broken Dmyco refunded and the VanTop dashcam was cheaper, the whole setup saved me now 30 Euros/dollars and I got a second rear cam... :-)
Hi srh2301! Man thanks for so much for this information, this is great info, I gotten this question before and while I had an idea of how it work I did not know the actual details of it. Thanks for sharing bud!
This video is awesome. Very informative. Everything is being explained without skipping over anything. No matter how tiny the details are, they’re all being explained so well perfectly.
Glad it helped Gute Ink!
Great video, covered plenty of in depth material in this video, thanks.
Thanks AtfMidnight! glad it was helpful!
I have been banging my head off my desk about the exact same thing wondering why the didn't just make both disconnects too. All along thinking i'm misunderstanding or doing things wrong. THANKYOU VERY MUCH.
You're welcome MrCanadascott! glad to hear it helped and thank you for watching!
Same here! I kept thinking like I was a moron because I could not wrap my head around how all of this was supposed to connect without buying an addition fuse tap.
thank you. I was having troubles with one part of install and you cleared it up
Glad it helped Stephen! and thank you for watching!
Hi! Great video, tks! I'm in doubt about the difference between this hardwire kit and the ones that only come with one connection.
Thanks Jaime! regarding the kits with only 2 power wires, those for the most part are on all the time, regardless if the car is on or off. Some dashcams work ok like that but they probably won't go into park mode as the camera does not know when the car is off. On the kit with 3 power wires the dashcam is able to tell that car has been turned off and is parked (this enables on the parking mode). Hope this helps bud!
@@AlexAutoFun thank you, this answers my question!
@@AlexAutoFun sure it does! Thanks!
so the red wire need to c Connect 12 volt and the yellow wire to?
@@jaimejess1 Hi Jay, yellow goes to 12 volt constant (meaning its always powered on regardless if the car if running or not).. Hope this helps bud!
Thanks for the video, very helpful... pretty weak that the red wire has that hard wired connection and i need the low profile one. So i had to buy the 4 pack off of amazon for this power supply and splice it in.
You're welcome CafassoFam! Yes I have to agree with you, the good thing is at least the extra fuses are not that expensive (in my case I had to buy the micro fuse tap). The joys of car manufacturers that keep changing their fuse sizes LoL!
@@AlexAutoFun i blame the idiot mfg of the power supply for not making both wires the same way so that the end user can pick the fuse tap that best suits them. Why do it half ways and then make us buy extra pieces to actually make it work. Gotta leave a bad review for this item.
Great video. I am wondering just like you why there isn’t an extra set of taps for the other wire. I tried a rove universal kit and it didn’t work for the Vantop mirror. I just ordered the kit from Vantop and will use your video as a guide. What amp size do I need for the dash cam?
Thanks Mike! yeah I wish both side had taps. That's interesting you mention the Rove kit as I'm about to review it and I want to test it out on both a Rove dashcam and a Vantop one, so appreciate the heads up on it. Regarding the fuse size, you want to stick with the fuse size Vantop included in the kit which are the blue fuses at 15amps. Hope this helps and thanks for watching!
@@AlexAutoFun thanks for the reply. It’s the Rove ultimate hardwire kit. So I will use 15 amp fuses for both battery and ACC taps, does it matter if I pick a 10amp unused slot in my fuse box? In other words, I have a 10amp fuse currently in the box that is labeled as a spare. Thanks in advance!
@@mikek568 You would want to stick with the original fuse amp value that came out of your car, so if you are taking over a spot that used a 10amp fuse then you would want to use 10amp on the fuse tap 1st slot (seen at the 2:00 mark) and then the 15amp for the dash cam power on the 2nd slot...
@@AlexAutoFun thanks again!
@@mikek568 You're welcome Mike!
Thank you for the detailed info.
You're welcome Luis! Glad it was helpful!
You sound just like the guy from the RUclips channel Lemmino very interesting voice!
Wow never thought about that! lol thanks! I actually have watched his channel, really cool stuff!
Hi , Many thanks for the nice video but where to connect to the car , can you plaesemake a video.
You're welcome sudhansumtripathy! ah yes here is the install video ruclips.net/video/K2iKXj82354/видео.html Cheers!
Yeah I'm still sort of scratching my head, I've been a bit confused as I'm doing all this stuff for the first time. Points you didn't really cover that could use a visual example with just pointing at your car, constant and acc fuse slot, so we use one that's just open or do we pull a used one and reinsert the fuse into the tap, and the black wire grounded bolt example of where it's going cause if that's mean to be in my engine bay... Well I have 2 fuse boxes, 1 in engine one next to glove box
Hi Shane!, I'm working a follow up video detailing the installation process on the car. Regarding the question of the fuse position, it will vary from car to car, sometimes they do have free spaces available and sometimes they don't which requires to pull a used one. As soon as the next video is up I will let you know bud!
@@AlexAutoFun not to mention, well being honest I've never pulled / inserted a fuse before as it's my first car I'm working on myself, just using patience and common sense to recognize when youre a little stumped and seek advice before doing something that could end up costing you alot more than you tried to save. Found that I think I need the mini fusetap, but no matter which way I flipped the tap, the fuse wouldn't slot in. I researched more on the grounding concept, and yeah a quick finger point to a bolt (there's I think usually a paint free metal bolt onto metal next to all fuse boxes, not surprised if this was considered by companies already) I had it in my head I may need to ground it to the negative terminal on the battery for some silly reason as I don't have much electronical experience other than can do attitude, reverse engineering videos and patience, albeit frustrations lol. With my fuse box I have around 1/3 of the slots empty, however as you said test it i have a cheapish tool, typical found in the garage dollar store pen thingy with a connection to plug into it that came with fuses so I'm thinking it's enough for now to make sure the slot is getting constant and acc power, but curiously, the taps have two slots to them.... Is that so you can put the vantop supplied mini fuse in, and of you want to double up a slot, you can put the one you removed into the double tap? Or just stick them in empty ones. In guessing for the most part a 15 fuse is a solid middle ground of giving enough battery when needed, not every tiny tap is going to set camera off and drain battery as I only really use the parking sensor on low, when it's parked. For some reason my mirror turns on for now reason frequently, unsure of it's translating my music or it's bumps. Turned off Gsensor completely till I mount the rear camera which on my car I've deduced it's best location is actually outside of the rear window drilled under the boot spoiler in front/middle of rear boot brake light to avoid your windows orange antifog lines, tinting etc, yet it still gets reasonable rain protection and since it's about 30cm further back than the license plate and raised, I have a much better range for the rear steam during night driving as my rear view is near non existent and my model has a couple of big blind spots so that camera is really going to get used to replace my mirrors with a glance and double check over my shoulder. Also I'm guessing you purchased the 10 or 12 series. I picked up the 12 as I didn't see the price difference as that much but older models are just getting dated already In image quality. How did you combat the digital mirror vibration when your car runs in comparison to the perfectly still factory mirror, only time it doesnt vibrate for me is when I pull it forward a bit but I've already gently put straps onto the tighter notch. Only thing I can "cheaply" and decently solve this is get some blue Tak (well I'll get it in black for a few $ more and I like symmetry so a light blue tac will be ugly when noticed) and use it to push the vantop out a bit from the OEM reverse mirror and just use a small tool to just smooth the bluetac where visible. And am I the only one disappointed we don't have the option to stream the reverse camera in 4k and front in 2k if required.... Is there a rear camera that would do it and is compatible? FHD is fine but... Sure UHD isn't much to swap in, though I'm guessing the mirror software would block it.... May be I'll need add a second camera at the plate and swap the headunit for a touch screen and use the second as the reverse cam and detach the spoiler camera from the reverse power line - from brief memory this is the first real video on the kit so you'll get many like me dropping in ;)
In terms of the video, was easy to follow up until the end when I'm like, there's a minute left that quickly shows the steps for clarification right? Just thinking in terms of "YT content creation" till that video goes up we're googling my confusion when you could keep everyone here in one video. My content is more vlogging, I'm not phased about giving exact tutorials as I don't want anyone thinking I'm telling them how to do it and my way will work for you. Anyway, good start, guessing editing tool you twice as long as organise and filming / editing the video 😆 good work though, easy enough to follow just need to add FAQs to points that will commonly come up and I think this is the only video with the vantop hardwire kit (though I do realize alot of options are half the price and would of done the same thing in terms of wiring kits, but $14 more wasn't an issue for piece of mind)
@@011mpsguy Hi Shane! as promised here is the follow up video, hope it helps! ruclips.net/video/zbxYA4VhuT8/видео.html
I been trying to find this hardwire kit but can not fine the v9h only the v9f any recommendations on where I can find this specific kit.
Hi Enernest, Yes I noticed that it sells out fast, they bring more and they sell out again lol the V9F should very similarly, I may just order one to compare to the V9H and make a video on it. I do have other videos coming up on other hardwire kits that I'm testing stay tuned bud!
On the new fuse tap you added how many amps should I put. I noticed the one you cut was blue. I bought the new tap only come with a 10 red and 20 yellow amps fuse.
Hi Randy! I used the fuse that came with the kit which is also blue in color 15 amps rating. Hope this helps and thanks for watching!
Thx i was able to have it connected to my car. I love it
@@RandyRKO Awesome! You're welcome!
Hi, I have this and a vivilink dash cam. I have an Audi A4 that use the largest fuse of the four provided. Do I need to also install the red ACC fuse? Bc it doesn’t fix and I really don’t want to have slice it and etc
Hi Nhat Nguyen! Yes the ACC wire is required for the dash cam to work correctly, what's unfortunate is that they didn't made the kit with a quick disconnect so we can change the size as needed. On this other video I made ruclips.net/video/wAad_JA7kz8/видео.html I show another way that installers change the size without splicing at the 9:50 mark if you want to see that method. Hope this helps and thanks for watching!
@@AlexAutoFun yes, wish they made the Acc wire the same as the other with options. Now I need to splice it, do you know where I can buy the similar big fuse wire to splice with the current? Thank you so much
@@NhatNguyen-xs7kl Here you go Nhat! Fuse Taps amzn.to/34OTZ0A
and here is the Stripper Crimper Tool amzn.to/3nLr1r2
@@AlexAutoFun thanks for the link. 👍
@@NhatNguyen-xs7kl You're welcome!
Do you know if this kit would be compatible with a 2014 Honda Accord?
Hi Sean! this hardwire kit is universal and should work with all cars..
Hey again! So I just finished installing my vivilink dash cam yesterday. I had to change the red ACC fuse plug to another type as the one that came with the kit did not fit my tundra. My tundra uses the low profile mini. So I had to go to the auto parts store down the street and all they had was one rated for 10 amps at the highest. I'm just kind of confused because the one that comes with the kit is a 15 amp fuse that is molded into the fuse plug. And I removed a 7.5 amp fuse from my ACC port. Will the 10 amp fuse on the new fuse block that I had to splice in be enough power for the dash cam or should I order a 15 amp fuse block? Also does it matter that I replaced the 7.5 amp fuse in my ACC port with a 10 amp fuse? Just concerned about getting the correct amount of power to the dash cam and also to my truck. Thank you for any help Hope this makes sense!
Hi Daniel! Ahh yes good question, if you had to remove the molded ACC like I did and replaced with another fuse tap size, you will want to follow same order as seen at the 1:57 where I show the location of the original fuse and the location of the dashcam fuse into the fuse tap. If the fuse you removed from your car is 7.5 amp then you want to stay with the 7.5 amp, the fuse for the dashcam should also stay the same, the fuse on the molded plug is 15 amp, so you will want to stay with 15 amp for the dashcam. Hope this helps and thanks for watching!
@@AlexAutoFun That makes sense I'll try that thank you! I ordered a 15 amp fuse tap from Amazon so hopefully that will fix the problem. Also I noticed after I installed everything in the kit that now my mirrors don't work or my radio doesn't work lol.
@@djordan7979 You're welcome Daniel! I will have another video coming where I go more into details for the fuse taps including the issues you are seeing which I see on some cars, sometimes it's as easy as re-installing the fuse tap in the opposite direction and sometimes is just the circuit is sensitive to adding more to it, stay tuned bud!..
@@AlexAutoFun So I just finished wiring everything up perfectly and it still wouldn't work correctly... I was dumbfounded. And then I thought hmmm maybe let me try switching the yellow wire to ACC and the red wire to constant and see what happens and sure enough that was the problem. Works perfectly now. I don't know why mine is reversed but it is. Even my hardware kit booklet says yellow to constant and red to ACC but mine is backwards. Do you know why that would be?
@@djordan7979 Hi Daniel! that is odd! lol I normally confirm with a voltmeter if the fuse location that I'm going to use for ACC is in fact turning on only when the key is turned to accessory and then I also check the BATT fuse location and confirm it has power all the time, this way I can eliminate that as a possible issue. It also lets me confirm with side of the fuse will be the 'hot" side as the fuse tape will only work correctly in one orientation (even thought I can fit 2 ways) since the correct orientation varies from car to car...
How would you install on older models like a 71 Chevelle that doesn't have modern fuse connections? Direct to battery? Thanks
Hi Genero! yes you could go direct to battery, as long as you keep the inline fuse they included for safety. However it may be better if it's connected to a switched power source so the dashcam knows when the car is on or off. Hope this helps!
which of the 2 do you recommend this 1 for the Van top OR the wolf 1 for the van top?
Hi Raul! I usually recommend sticking to the same manufacturer, so Vantop kit for Vantop dash cams and Wolfbox kit for Wolfbox dashcams. That being said, I do like how the Vantop comes with some fuse taps, however not enough to install it if your car size does not match the molded one. So in a way even thought it comes with a few fuse taps with either of this kits it is likely you will still have to buy an additional set of fuse taps to be able to install it (links to them in the video description). Hope this helps and thanks for watching!
@@AlexAutoFun Thanks for the prompt reply, that is a lot of good information, get back to me when you set it up in a Chevy Silverado 1500, Thanks again.
@@raulm9543 You're welcome!
Does anybody know how this hardwire kit works on USB side? I understand that there are the PLUS and GND wires in the USB cable, but what changes when ACC is on / off? Does the device send any information on the data lines of the USB?
Hi srh2301! Your correct, the dash cam uses different power in different pins for it to know that the car has been turned off. The actual pin outs are typically proprietary to different manufacturers and some are universal. Garmin is one of the dash cams that controls this information making harder for aftermarket hardwire kits to be developed for it, so it just depends from dash cam to dash cam. Hope that makes sense and thanks for watching bud!
Hi. I have the vantop hardwire kit. Where do I buy the fuse tap for my mini fuse?
Hi R Navarre! These are the Mini Fuse Taps I got amzn.to/34OTZ0A Hope this helps and thanks for watching!
For the molded fuse on the red ACC wire, my car takes the mini fuses so would I need an old fuse and new fuse tap or how can I use the one provided?
Hi Carnard! Yes if the car does not have a spare fuse position to install the ACC fuse, the molded fuse (ACC) would have to be cut off and replaced with a fuse tap as shown around 3:50 Hope this helps bud!
Thanks for the reply
@@Scrap3001 You're welcome!
@@AlexAutoFun hopefully this makes sense. i cut off the acc and added a fuse tap. i remember at the beginning you said to put the original fuse in the first slot and the other fuse from the camera in the second slot. but my camera only came with one. what do i put in the rear section of the other fuse tap.
1:34 the black wire what does it do? Can cut it off.
I order hardware kit and it doesn’t has GND
Hi Big Boss! The black wire provides the negative power and the red wire provides the positive power to the device. If your hardwire kit did not come labeled with GND, it may be labeled as negative or with the negative sign "-" Check the instruction that came with it, it may shed some light on this, hope this helps bud and thanks for watching!
@@AlexAutoFun thanks for your kindness
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@@bigboss2300 Awesome! thanks for the follow my friend!
I’ve had mine for a little over a year. Worked great. BUT Now the dash cam won’t power on or charge. Anyone else having similar issues? Please help
Hi Chris DuBos! It could be this issue I covered on my latest video here ruclips.net/video/trpMjXbjOcU/видео.html or the power supply for it may be failing, If you are hardwired I would try the cigarette lighter plug to see if it works correctly which would confirm a bad hardwire kit. If you are running the cigarette lighter adapter then I would use a power bank (capable of 2.5A) to confirm if the cigarette plug has failed. Hope this helps, Cheers!
Do I have to connect all 3 wires?
Hi Tony! All 3 wires are required to be connected only if Parking Mode is desired. The dashcam will still work with only the main 2 power wires connected but it won't know when the car is turned off and some dashcams need to know this to enable parking mode. Here is a follow up video on the hardwire process if it helps ruclips.net/video/zbxYA4VhuT8/видео.html Thanks for watching Tony!