How to do Electrical Wiring properly! (more or less....) GERMAN STYLE!
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In this video me and my friend will show you how to do electrical wiring properly. That means we will remove the complete electrical system of his garage and install a new one. We will be talking about/showing you how to mount and wire up a new distribution box, install circuit breakers, mount electrical components like outlets, switches and lamps, install conduits, lay cable and finally how to connect all the components to one another. Let's get started!
Websites which were shown in the video:
de.wikipedia.org/wiki/Liste_d...)
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Music:
2011 Lookalike by Bartlebeats
Killing Time, Kevin MacLeod
(incompetech.com)
0:00 Introduction
1:16 Intro
1:47 Drawing an Installation plan
2:42 Explaining the Flow sheet
4:20 Ordering the components
5:12 Practical Build
11:01 Final Test & End 
Наука
German here. Incase some people think "Meh, he probably did it extra well here in this video, there is no way this is how its done on site irl".
Nope. That is exactly how. In any house where the electrical system was either renewed, or new anyways - this is exactly how it looks. :D
Yep, but in most houses you don’t use “on the plaster” type but “inside plaster” type or whatever it’s called. In Poland we have special flat white cables that go into plaster without any conduits.
Looks just like in Sweden. North Europe takes standards very seriously. :P
Are you shure? Some stuff needs to be bodged, because some people think it is a good idea they do it yourself, and not like the good kind he did. You see the fuse at the beginning of the video? Some random dude had the brilliant idea to hammer a Nail into it since the fuse kept melting... long story short the fusebox started to burn.
@@iamjimgroth yes there is like a whole book with all the regulations the NIN (Niederspannungs Installastons Normen) it hast 200 pages for the compact version.
@@volkhen0 i think these arent up to norms anymotr
German standard makes here in indonesia looks like unga bunga
people in developing country usually install their electrical wiring using uncertified engineer because of lack of certified engineer.
@@alfineranai6952 tbf in my place, where almost every home is built well maybe in 2000s or before...and being built by non certified makes me have to finish what they've done like on insulating and other thing
Old house didn't have breaker like new one and instead they have a fuse with screw connect like a bulb lamp
Well, time to repair it each side of our houses one by one right
Exactly. My home only have 2 unknown circuit breaker to separate half of my home. And 1 6A from PLN. I don't even have PE wiring properly installed. So whenever I want to power my sensitive stuff I usually just plug it in into my own DIY power grid in my room (actually just a DIY inverter to power my room with proper wiring and earth protection). Separated from home electrical which is powered by PLN.
Jokes on you, I do the house wiring myself to make sure it is up to DIN.
There are a lot of cases of house catch on fire because the use of thin wire for heavy loads such as microwaves, washing machines, refrigerators, etc due to budget cuts.
Finally something not American! Thank you so much! Even though we have more or less the same system in Hungary, it's nice to see a detailed guide
Glad you like it!
Örültem, hogy nem karton papír házakat látok, és összecsavart vezetékeket 😂
This is exactly how is done in Hungary with the exception of the "German trademark" precision measurements. We just eyeball it. :D
@@balazskoti2603 it's a nightmare to drill the wall of a Soviet block of flats....
Read me if you want
Scott: Talks about wiring standards
India: We don't do that here
Who needs connecters We have insulation tape😂😂
@@sayujraphael who needs insulation tapes we leave it open
@@mahargha_debnath Why leave it open when you can hide twisted wires behind the cupboards!
India using Chapati Standard plagiarized from the Ex Colonial British Standard
Well. We do have a strict codes and standards in India. None of us follow when in comes to LT wiring for houses. We do follow a lot of codes for industrial HT wiring. But things are getting better slowly. :)
A new installation and no "Erstprüfung" according to VDE 0100 Teil 600? Thats pretty mutig 😂
As long as the FI/LS pops xD
Das stimmt. Die deutsche nirm ist auch beim Verteiler nicht eingehalten zulleitung über ein 1,5mm² ist sehr fragwürdig
@@deburu We don‘t know if it pops. The rcd values were not measured. And no, pressing the test button is not sufficient.
@@factionTaste Nachdem die alte 6A Vorsicherung zwischen der Zuleitung und dem FI/LS glaube ich weiterhin vorhanden ist passt das in diesem Fall schon, da das 3x1,5 ja vorgesichert ist. Sollte die 6A Schraubsicherung nicht mehr verwendet worden sein würde das natürlich nicht gehen.
@@power3516 War da nicht was mit Selektivität? Oder galt das nur für FI's?
3:05 - Slight correction on the RCBO, it doesn't detect current flowing to the protective earth wire, it detects an imbalance of current flowing down the live and back on the neutral.
If it only detected current flowing to the protective earth wire, you could get a shock, passing the current through your own body to ground, and not down the protective earth wire, it wouldn't detect it.
Exactly what I thought hahaha
This is the commentary I was looking for. 😊
That's actually a big correction. An RCD could work in an installation without any earthing. The imbalance between L and N is the criterium and doesn't need PE at all.
@@Lenny-kt2th He prolly thought an RCBO worked like an ELCB which detects current flowing through the PE.
@@Lenny-kt2th it will work without a PE but it doesnt work without any earthing. how could you be shocked with touching L without there being at least a connection on the producer side over earth to N. there are actually systems build like that in hospitals and such and they require over methods of keeping track of faults 👍
How long has it been, since I saw such wiring.... In our company, the first things our apprentice learn is how to do house wiring properly, and we have a realy good picture on our pegboard, showing how wire connections should look like and how it shouldn't look like. I'm so glad, that they teach this to us, even though we usually work on PCBs.
Time traveller!
@@tfr Patreon time traveller ;-)
@@greatscottlab ????
@@kylehill3643 Videos are uploaded as private and Patreons get the link immediately while others have to wait a while to see new videos. This is one of the perks of being a Patreon subscriber.
This was a PLEASURE to watch for someone working in this field! Thank you for the hard work you put in these videos
Much appreciated!
@@greatscottlab can you make a video about IC plz :)
Cause I’m confused about the pins and what they do
One yeare left till i work in this feald also I´m from Germany so this video was greate
@@comback8237
ICs are always different. If you want the specific pinout of an IC, the best thing you can do, is look at the numbers on it's top, input them into your preferred search engine, and look for either a site called alldatasheet, or just a plain pdf file.
If you find the pdf of your specific IC, then after reading it, you'll find the pinout, and parameters as well.
@@comback8237 In case you still need help, just comment here again, and Ill help ya.
I would recommend keeping your power outlets and lights on separate circuit breakers. You are more likely to trip your power outlet, at least this way your lights don't go out if you do.
You are right, but he said that the main (old ceramic style) fuse was only 6 amp, so if anything would happen, it would still trip that for sure.......if he could replace the ceramic with some 6A slow C-type breaker and after that two faster breakers, it might work
@@great__success It is so easy to replace the ceramic fuse..... Install 20A, draw 2.5mm2 to the RCBO, draw 1.5 to the outlets and another MCB 6A for the lights with even 1.0mm2.
@@viktorpeev2825 In my knowledge 20A ceramic fuse has bigger physical dimension, so even if you want to break the rules you cant and you would have to replace the whole socket.....it makes sense, cause probably all the nearby garages are connected to common outside breaker that is accesible only to few people...and by installing higger than 6A fuse you risk tripping of this outside breaker that might not be accesible to you
@@great__success I highly doubt, that if your feed cable is more than 2,5mm2, the fuse is less than 20A, since the meaning of the FUSE is to protect the cable, not the consumer ( outlet,lights etc.). Anyway, it is just confusing for me. Never seen such instalation here in Bulgaria ( have to say, that here, most of the fuses are still ceramic). Kind regards.
At least for short circuits it wont work and isnt allowed by the VDE as in case of a short both breakers would trip
The tag line “German Style” brought me back here :p
German style but I facepalmed quite many times, overlappings mainly... It just makes no sense why are there so many useleless connections and the use of cable glands...Main problem is the "main fuse"
Could've solved it with 1 switch and 1 breaker in the same cabinet. Other than that its close to ideal.
I have it worse in my own home.😂
@@mihkus Then it would not be "German Style" ;) Everything according to the applicable standards :D
Fuse is as sentimental add on. My concern is single Earth-Leakage in the Distribution Board. Women plugged faulty charger in the wall socket (short circuit not earth fault) and all garage went dark?. We have separate C/Breakers for lights and sockets with correct kA ratings. It helps a lot. Still nice job done comparing with the old one. Just different standards but nice to know. Good video.
It is not forbidden to do it so, in my opinion its made cost-effective.
In my house ever room has a circuit for lighting and one for outlet. Outlets has RCD type A, except my Workshop, it has Type B
@@leonnastaly4814 Then you would have a need three breaker, one common and two appliance breakers, because two breakers in pararel could lead to the distribution line over loading (12A + 12A not tripping each of those two, but exceeds limit on distribution line of 16A)
I'm a danish electrician and i have a small correction:
5:24
The theoretical rating of a 1,5mm^2 wire is a little over 16A, but in european standards a 1,5mm^2 wire should never be able to pull more than 13A because of factors like distance, wire bunles, tempatures and a few other thecnical factors like short circuit current (Ikmin and Ikmax (the Ikmax is not valid in this situation)). All of these factors limit current rating very much.
Unfortunaly you have to dive DEEP into electrical math to see that influence.
Great video anyway. I was intertained.
(Yea i know the entire installation has a 6A fuse in front of it, so 16A will never be able to run there before that pops.)
Short term loads of >16A are permitted by code in germany. In essence you are to avoid voltage drops of more than 3% over the length of the cable because of heat dissipation (among other reasons).
But usually electricians in germany would dimension a cable as 6A/mm² nominal on on a B-Type breaker.
If you exceed 6A or have a deltaU > 3% you'd step up in cross section to 2.5mm² yet still keep the B-breaker.
There are ofc exeptions to the rule. Different load types and load profiles over time might require different breaker characteristics and cable parameters.
In the UK a 16A or 20A radial circuit would definitely used at least 2.5 mm^2 cabling (for a very long run it might need to be larger gauge). The 1.5 mm^2 cabling in UK use is generally reserved for lighting circuits which will have a 6A breaker.
@@TheEulerID Same in The Netherlands; each wall outlet is wired using 2.5mm2 wiring; only switched lamps are using 1.5mm2. In Dutch household 6A circuits are very rare, so even those are mostly wired using 2.5mm2.
@@TheEulerID2.5mm^2 for 16 amp in Denmark
It's surprising how different German switches, cables and connectors are from the Italian ones. As always, great video!
So true, noticed it expecially those wires with solid strand instead of multicore
All components updated to the new legislation are very similar to those shown in the video, also because they must follow very stringent European regulations.
In Poland everything seems very similar to German type.
@@fb55255 right, I always see that kind of cables in foreign youtubers videos, but I have never seen them in the electrical systems I worked with. They seem really practical.
@@enricomontanari1390 in what year the new rules came into effect? I bought a bunch of new switches and electrical components last year, but they're not really similar to the ones in the video. I'd love to use wago terminal instead of the classical screw connector, but I never found them in shops. They need more space, but cable management looks neater.
You draw better electrical plans on paper than some engineers here who draw it on AutoCAD.
absolutely 😄
The hand its better, faster and easier , especially for drafts blueprints.
yeah but did you notice that he rewrites every letter ? probably OCD
As an apprentice in Germany, this video has helped me a lot to have the basics! Vielen Dank! :)
In Catalonia we use 1.5mm copper wire for 10A instalation, 2.5mm copper wire for 16A for electrical socket plugs, with one RCBO for max 5 circuit brakers and a diferent breaker for ilumination circuit 10A and a 16A braker for electrical sockets.
Great videos, I love your channel.
In Finland we also have to use 10A fuse for 1.5mm² and 16A fuse for 2.5mm², both copper. In a VERY special case you can use 1.5mm2 with 16A fuse, IF the cable is less than 2m long.
We have also a maximum 3% of voltage drop, if you exceed you have to use the next wire section. We also have a restriction of maximum current depending of the instalation system.
But I think prety much similar in all European Comunity members.
Thanks for the info!
Personally I would invest little bit more money and buy 2 RCBOs , one for the outlets and one for the lights. Simply because when outlet breaker pops you don't loose the lights too. But anyway nice work !
This is normally how they/you do it... One breaker for lights, one for outlets / per room. Where I live light circuits are on 10A breakers and outlets on 16A. And all that on one 30mA RCBO.
Don't even know if we can have lights on 16A breakers let alone lights and sockets on the same breaker.
@@snajperSLO same here in autria with the New ÖVE8101 Rules that is a must. And the Light breaker is a C6 because B6 and some LED Lichts arent working together well.
@@snajperSLO It's same in my country like you say. Not sure if we can have both lights and sockets on the same circuit. But for sure I know for 16A breaker we must use 2,5mm wire and not like Scott 1,5mm. We use 1,5mm wire only for a 10A breaker (typically for a light ciruit), for sockets we use 2,5mm wire and 16A breaker.
@@obeser1996 as for the C6 or B6, depends on how many LED drivers are on the same cirsuit... The drivers we use specify that in the manual (26 units (circuit breaker of type B) / 44 units (circuit breaker of type C)). We had no issue with B6 or B10 for modern LED drivers (brand name drivers)
@@snajperSLO yes your right the problem here is that we cant decide what Lichts the cosumer will use. And time tell that they are always using the cheapest Chinese brand they can find. Some of them are so bad they will lightly illuminate even when live wire is cut off.
Im an italian electrician, here in italy 1.5mm sq is for 10amp circuit, for 16 amp we use 2.5mm sq, also you can use some adapter for the tube to the junction box and you dont have any whire exposed and get a better look, thanks scoot see you next time!!
It's really different compared the standards here in the Philippines.
Probably yours is pretty much the same as we have here in Latin America 😂
Wait, you guys have standards ?
@@suleymanturan465 yeah, 1) get it working. 2) keep it affordable.
If i am not mistaken, the Powergrid is based on the North American System?
also here in mexico, the conduit is always green and you need to add omega type clamps to secure it, and use curves for each 90° or a box with connectors to seal the pipe
Beautiful & simple setup there GreatScott.
Super well explained & love how you also hammer home the safety aspects & the proper way to do it setting a good example.
Having read so many Australian electrical accident reports due to dodgy wiring practices, this video is like a breath of fresh air.
God bless you sir, may you always be really well & safe & can't wait to see more content!
Nice to see it done properly. My grandpa built our house in the 60s/70s And had a friend of him do the wiring. Over the years I found out just how messy they did our house. Grüße aus Unterfranken
I've done a fair amount of wiring in my house and friends houses in the US. I like the German standards A LOT better. No wire nuts, things are labeled, everything is 240V. Seems nice.
Me as a german using only Wagoklemmen (those shown here) do not really like the concept of those wirenuts. Seems like the germans are by far more practical.
Wire nuts look flimsy AF. Screw terminals are better imo
The wago clamps are great but compared to the wire nuts the touching surface of the conductors is tiny, wire nuts are in that case actually safer
The only thing I (an American) finds wrong with this German wiring is the conduit ending in the middle of the path. I much prefer the American way where the conduit is continuous from box to box so everything there is well-protected.
@@eDoc2020 the cable itself is pretty stiff. Even using these conduit ducts is not always the case, often you use small nailed clamps every 20cm or so. If you have the conduits directly to the boxes you havent enough room, since the inlets of the boxes are only for one cAble each and spaced apart. So if you want more then one cable in the conduit you need some space.
I used to work in Germany Electricity and i really liked their system, I Miss Berlin , and great video...
Wow you are so professional! Even the clamps for the wire tubes are exactly where they should be and everything is planned, measured and calculated. And here I am doing everything frei Schnautze
Really learned many things! Following your channel for 3-4 years, really helped me a lot! Thanks man!
3:00 ElectroBOOM flashbacks are beginning...
And that's only half the voltage potential!
Its always interesting to see how different the standards are between the US and other countries.
Another amazing video with clear, consistently planned content. Man... These videos make me so ambitious to give extra attention to my studies as an electrician while working as programmer. I find electronics and electrics so much more exciting nowadays than what I currently do for a living. Keep it up, I love your channel. Greetings from Hungary!
Study mechatronichs and have use for your programming skills in your electronics and electrics! Highly demanded skills in combination!
Great Scott, I love your electronic vids. I didn't think a simple elecrical wiring in Germany was so complex! In North America the simple electrical drawings are easier to follow and installation are much simpler. Thanks for the videos.
Thanks for the video! Here in Eastern Europe (post-Soviet countries) aluminium wiring was a common practice a mere 20 years ago, including in apartment buildings. Pain in the ass to fix.
I feel your pain
Oh yes. And drunken electricians....
@@alhdgysz thats why you have wires running horizontal and vertical in the wall as a bonus you get few going diagonal :)
@@snajperSLO and wavy 😂
same in the states too well from 40 yrs ago
Great work. In the US, the wiring connections are very much different. It’s interesting to see how it’s done in other countries. I will be updating the lights in a rental property I have.
I like the all metal conduits in US and the junction boxes. It all looks neat.
@@volkhen0 do the all metal conduits need a connection to earth ? Or how does it work in the US ?
@@RecBlackLP I don’t know,
I’m from Poland. I said I just like the US conduits style.
@@RecBlackLP all metal conduit (called EMT) must be properly grounded, yes. Also, unlike Germany, all wiring must be secured and not exposed.
@@andrewwest3994where do you see exposed wiring?
Very interesting the difference between your standards and the ones we have in the USA. Very nice job! Thanks for sharing.
Great to see and hear in English. About to rewire my garages and so far been searching German wiring in English. Understand most in german but for clarification in my own language is good. Thanks
I cant help hearing in my head "the professional is insured you are not" 😂
Lol
Here in albania most standarts are the same with the german ones so it was really helpfull to me
It is incredible seeing the different 'standard' wires of a house. It would be neat to see a "model" home that you could see all the 'wiring' you would have to do for each countries standards.
Oh my goodness, I haven't watched you in ages - a year or two at least. Was surprised to learn you now make appearences in your videos! Great one as always! I have some catching up to do :)
I like how clean it looks, a lot of wire installs here in the State are not so clean.
7:24
Me, an European that consume a lot of American diy/electronic channels, clearly confused because he knew wall plugs.
I love the wago connectors, they work so well and make it easy to upgrade in the future!
I love how it's all about context. "Let's pay them a visit.GERMAN STYLE." sounds eerie ;)
This video in a nutshell? CABLEPORN!
Don't be dirty boi🙏
"Professional electrician" with how neat that wiring job is, I would be surprised otherwise.
Why .
Perfect timing! We are just redoing a basement room for my electronics workshop
In Portugal we use the same type of equipment, the same type of connector, and even the color code of the wires is the same. However, in Portugal the division of circuits is mandatory, that is, a protective circuit breaker for lighting and another for plugs. Another difference is that in Portugal it is only allowed to use 1.5mm2 conductors for lighting or for equipment with a maximum power of 850W, the socket circuits are mandatory to be made to conductors at 2.5mm2. Good job, thanks for the great videos!
Great video. I am an electrician in the U.S. and it's interesting to see what's similar and what's different. We wouldn't be allowed to route the wires through the conduits with out boxes at every junction. Looking forward to your next video!
In the UK the conduit has to go end to end and connect to boxes with glands. So bends have to be fitted to keep the wire protected at all times or you have to bend the pipe with a tool!
The conduits in the video are mainly for esthetics reasons. You can put wires on the wall using clips too.
@@volkhen0 yes and with some even better wire, you can raut it almost anyware.
These wires run in a flame/heat retardant shell. Most of the time they have an even thicker shell (the gray kind), and for outside they can have a stranded metal jacket in them. I think in the US you use just the separate wires in metal conduit right? We also use seperate wires a lot by the way, but then we run them through a closed system of pvc (fire retardant) conduit. We don't use metal conduit in N.W. Europe.
@@zenddoor well we do, but it is more for Cable outside, ore for when you know the conduit is wonerable to bein abused by cars ore animals
I love Wagos so much. My house was built in the 50s and it has a bunch of the old screw cap type things everywhere. Every time I find one I replace it with a Wago and I swear I can feel the house smiling.
Haha, same here.
This is great work. Surely a breath lf fresh air in comparison to what I've seen during my life.
Hey Scott, I'm happy to find your channel which reminds me of my Ausbildung time in Mannheim. I finished my school als Kommunikationselektroniker Fachrichtung Informationstechnik back in 1990 to 1994.
in Australia 'proper' means you have to run the conduit all the way into junction boxes. looks nicer too
Thats what i consider proper too. A gap in between is just ugly and looks like an amateur tried to fit it. Also im pretty sure its safer to run the conduit into the junction box because it provides more protection for the cable. In the Netherlands i never see those gaps thankfully...
same for Argentina. No way you will pass a (commercial) inspection with wires flapping around. We don't run conduit all the way though, we have "connectors" for conduit for nice finishing. Also we use the same outlets as Australia.
@@83hjf connectors are good, can also buy the junction boxes with a conduit receptacle molded in to it. We also tend to wire with 7 strand flat TPS instead of the circular cable used in the video.
@@_S13_ to my knowledge that is explicitly forbidden in Germany. I don't know the reasoning behind that though.
The standards are really different from Brazil, really nice to see other standards.
It's weird to see how some rules determine the products available.
Outro brasileiro!!!!!!
As an American, This video would have been very helpful when I moved to Germany 6 years ago and rewired my garage from the exact same situation, one dim light and a plug.
Similar to Thailand! Except:
1. We use wire nuts instead of WAGO connectors. WAGOs are way better IMO.
2. We use junction box connectors so conduits end right next to the junction box.
3. We used to use grouped cabling too but now we use 3 ungrouped ‘THW’ wires for L, N and PE.
4. We use flex conduits for difficult angles that will be a pain to use rigid conduits.
5. We use busbars instead of quick connects for N and PE in distribution box.
6. We sometimes use rectangular wireways instead of conduits as they can be opened up for easier modifications later on. This trades ease of installation (junction boxes usually only come with conduit connections) for flexibility.
Thanks for sharing the German style!
I always love your videos
A video on automated garden would be nice.
Coming soon!
I hope that's the next video
I'm waiting ☺☺
Looks the same in Spain but in Spain I never saw this 5cm gap of the wires without the plastic tube protection, always all the way to the boxes and corners protected with corner shaped tubes
5cm open gap probably to allow fireman to use an axe to chop the connections off in a fire perhaps..
I'm from country from where is TEP(Croatia) and I love their older models of switches and outlets. Great video!
I love your videos; it's so good to listen to a fellow engineer.
This feels like a shot at electro boom :p
Haha well......not really ;-)
@@greatscottlab wink wink nudge nudge , say no more :p
Haha, right. After his recent videos about the patio heater.
6:30 hab die gleichen, sind gut
As I can see the old plugs and switch are TEP products. They were made in Croatia (ex Yugoslavia) in factory Tvornica Elektrotehničkih Proizvoda. It was nice to see this little detail since I am your flower since early days. Hi to all from 🇭🇷
I'd like to mention, in Germany it takes 3,5 Years of Training to become an "official" professional electrical worker.
During this training or "Ausbilding" you get about 300€ to 700€ per month.
At the end you will have theoretical and practical exams and when you succeed you get your "Facharbeiterbrief", a smal
notarised document saying you are a professional electrician.
This goes for most jobs which have a government controlled training.
Although pay ranges from 240€ up to 1,200€ as far as I know. I may have missed the point at which minimum wages for trainees have been introduced.
WAGO makes it all so easy :)
Great Scott to a stupid Engineer like me 1:01: "You should always hire a professional to do electrical work"
Super well explained, great job Scott 💪
Ah, yes, our daily dose of superior German Engineering.
Haha, well....something like that ;-)
Great video as always.
What was the reason for using one breaker for both lights and sockets? I would be afraid of losing light when it gets triggered.
I'm from India,we do all the electrical work for our home
by experience we know the
How to get right connection
Like your videos, love from India.
Thanks for all of your videos. You are incredibly good at teaching all kinds of electronics . I would love a video of how a tig ac/DC welding machine works. I am currently trying to build a hf arc generator for one and the electronics in it are really intriguing.
5:20 I am a bit confused. Are you adding a 16A breaker after a 6A fuse?
Came into comments to ask the same question
They probably replaced the original fuse with one that had a higher rating (16a)
It's European regulation to have outlets behind a 16A breaker, either with 1.5 mm2 or 2.5 mm2 sections of wire depending on the number of outlets and the voltage drop you might get over the distance. The input 6A fuse is unusual. Fuses themselves are unusual.
It shouldnt be a safety issue, the ground protection of the RCBO is still there and it just means the 6A fuse blows first. But its bad style and annoying to have to replace a fuse when you have a perfect resettable RCBO there. But probably 6A RCBOs are rare and might be more expensive.
@@MytronixOfficial 6A RCBO is common in the UK for lighting circuits
In Denmark we are only allowed to draw 10-13A on 1,5mm2 conductors, depending on our measurements.
So 16A on 1,5mm2 is a bit surprising to me.
depending on wire lenght, but his main fuse is just 6A
@@rofo88 its B16, so 16A. 16A is standard for outlets
@@michaelspannbauer7577 : Main Fuse, the old one made of ceramic
In Germany as long as the voltage does not drop more than 3% at the end of the connection, ist fine. So it depends on the cable length
Otherwise you have to use a thicker kable
@@spellingmistake1 here in Denmark its 5% on light installations and 3% in other kinds. We just got a new set of rules called DS/EN-60364 and that is should remind alot of your laws in germany. 😊
most useful DIY wiring video - thanks (the standards used in Germany are par excellence)
it's great fun, seeing most of the components I, as a picker, handle every day, being used and not just laying around in bulk. even funnier seeing the same brands! it makes me want to take a closer look at actual wiring and the work of an electrition. Maybe I can persuade my company into making that possible one day haha
I came to the comment section to get some juicy chastising of how your work is still not according to VDE-norms. But I didn't find any. Good job, it seems.
I'm sure they will find something. They always do.
@@cfusername Haha true ;-)
Thankfully he is using (maybe) the european method, and I'm from Spain, so here we go!
Yeah, here in Spain the standard is mostly based on the German standards, but Spanish electricians would never bother to install to code, or install neatly. I have yet to see a Spanish house with an installation I wouldn't rip out immediately if I owned it.
Ojalá, pero por la poca experiencia que tengo por mucho que el código sea el mismo los electricistas no!
As far as I'm aware, everyone in Europe but the Brits use DIN-based standards
@@ornessarhithfaeron3576 actually it's based on CENELEC standards.
Being in Canada, I’ll just have to stay creative and wait for next time. GreatScott!!! Years of enjoyment
Thank you, I learned a few new things. Very well explained.
It's more or less done similarly in the Netherlands. Even though it's quite tedious to do on a daily basis. It's still enjoyable to watch good craftsmanship.
5:31
Germany allows 16 A using a 1.5 mm2 wire? In Finland (with mostly the same regulations), 1.5 mm2 wire is only for up to 10 A, and 2.5 mm2 wire is used for up to 16 A.
Yes 1.5mm 16A is fine up to 17m length, except some limitations regarding cable accumulation etc.
For new buildings, 13A is also common here.
Yep 1.5 for 16A is allowed.
AFAIK depends on installation type/location - it's allowed in conduits on walls, but if it's inside heat-insulated wall the rating drops down to 14,5 A.
it depends on the calculated current of the system, a lot of places 1.5 mm2 cable can carry 16A easly but national regulations (like in finland, and norway, and probbably more places) demands that you use 2.5mm2 wire
Okay, good to know. The different regulations might be due to temperature differences between countries. Germany is a bit warmer year-round than Finland (especially Lapland). And especially with thinner wires, large currents heat up the wire.
Over time, the temperature changes can fatigue the metal and the insulation, leading to failures. If you're using an extension cable outside in the winter, it's not uncommon for the snow underneath it to melt.
Very nice, this is almost completely identical to how it's done in Iceland, almost all of our electrical is straight from Germany and it's fantastic!
Brilliant :-)
clean and neat, just satisfying to watch, thanks !
Glad to hear advice at 0.56 seconds in. Beyond that advice what I'm seeing I categorize as "entertainment." I would be relieved if more "influencers" would express similar warnings early in their presentations. Please be mindful of the fact that at risk here are both property, the lives of others and your own.
10:30 Oh the humanity! Has Germany never heard of glands and grommets? Here in the UK you'd get shouted at for having all those wires hanging out of the ends of the conduit like that!
There are ways to do corners too!
Yeah, not very neat. Maybe they don't require them for external building(s) installations 😜
Not required indoors
I know it's not required, the conduit isn't even required, but I've never seen anyone go to the trouble of "half doing" the conduit!
I would shout at a spark if he did that to my garage!
(Which would be my brother, but I know he'd never do an install like that).
In Denmark you are not required to use conduits unless the installation are outside and close to the ground (2,5m or below). Most times conduits are used to get the job done faster, just like in the video. If you have lot of parallel wiring in a esthetic un important area like a garage you would use a cable tray.
@@juststeve5542 When he smacked in that first vertical at 9:14 I thought, he must be using some huge grommets. Then he started feeding cabling and I was like... Ermmm, hang on!! LOL
6:17 the true professional use his teath to trim the wires ..
and uninsulated tools thts why its crafts-man not fanny crafts-dresser lol
A nice n concise guide, thanks for the video!!👍
Люблю смотреть на добросовестно сделанную работу! Отлично и подробно рассказано! Сделано в меру качественно (не буду писать про мелочи, которые сделал бы по другому). Хороший пример для начинающих!
ещё стоит учитывать разницу в стандартах. Например в Британии (где я живу), такая прокладка кабельных каналов является нарушением.
@@jur4x А здесь как раз-таки показан хороший пример монтажа "для себя", в своем гараже, а не на промышленном объекте. Я думаю, в Британии так тоже можно сделать в своем гараже, и это не будет нарушением
@@st.w Есть промышленный объект и есть частный. Но никаких "для себя" - стандарт есть стандарт и следовать ему надо. И если ты не прячешь провод в стену, то либо кондуит от начала до конца (без открытых участков на углах, как допускается в некоторых странах на континенте), либо используешь армированный кабель.
Поэтому такая прокладка кабелей будет нарушением согласно Британскому стандарту. Хоть в Германии это и допустимо.
I wish the din rail box and wago connecters were standard in the us
Be the change you wish to see! I’ve been replacing all wire nuts with wago connectors one-by-one as I install smart switches and USB-C equipped outlets.
Wago in the US is not such a good idea. Wago is designed with 240V in mind, where the US is mostly 120V. Half the voltage means twice the current, and a much, much higher risk of overloading a circuit. The US style wiring nut will stand that kind of abuse better.
the only thing missing was that you said something about the 5 safety rules 😅❤
Man, I thought finally a video where I can show my skills in the comments but that video is well done. Can't add anything to it other than great job.
Pretty interesting project, dude!!! 😃
Thanks for sharing!
Stay safe and creative there! 🖖😊
Thanks, you too!
the 5cm gaps are an interesting factor. in Canada I've always seen conduit connected structurally to every box, and I suspect you probably aren't allowed to have a pipe end exposed, and must end all pipes in a box of some kind
This is because the 3 x 1.5 mm2 covered wire he used. When you use individual wires you connect the conduits to the box.
@@jbrnds the standard wire for homes in canada is called romex, it's the live and neutral in a flat line with the ground in the middle and some insulation around the whole thing, if wire is to be exposed in an "outdoors" location like a garage people either use conduit or this stuff called BX which has a metal armored sheath. my guess based on what i can see in the video is that his wire has much, much thicker insulation around it
it depends on what type of installation you do.
1)For outdoor, garages, offices and most industrial buildings, we use (mostly gray) insulating cables(like Scott uses here). For example XMVk. because they are always Water resistant and really quick & easy to install, and you have them in different types for different use cases like UV resistant or Metal-shields. Those are allowed to be exposed for bends and connecting them to junction boxes.
2)For houses indoor we mostly use (yellow) pvc piping flexible or solid, or a combination of both. And tose must, just like in Canada, always connect directly to boxes, switches and outlets. After installing the pipes we pull cables tru them. for power every color is separate but we pull them at the same time obviously. And we use the same pipes for ethernet, fiber, telephone and coaxial cables, separate from power.
You can see why we prefer the first method. It is less work for big installations but it is not very suitable for European type houses.
They used for indoor Installation NYM-J, for outdoor its NYY.
@@famitory in Australia we use similar stuff we call TPS. Typically we use 1.5mm² for lighting circuits and 2.5mm² for general power outlets. All 3 sets of stranded conductors are insulated individually with their designated colour, then all 3 are insulated together into a flat white cable. We use 230V power here, similar to Europe's 220V.
en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Thermoplastic-sheathed_cable
9:40 the PE wire has to be a little bit longer than the N an L to make sure that the PE wire is the last one that is connected in case the outlet gets teared off the wall by accident
Good advice.
Good practice but not necessary, the outlet is designed in such a way that the PE is always the last to release with same wire length.
You draw and write so neatly. And all left handed. :-)
Very tidy job, many thx for the video.
woh i was like only 167 views and then refreshed and bam still the same tho love ur work mate german wiring and japanese tools best combo ever
Thanks :-)
mine counts 162
What? I have seen this exact comment before.
@@tanmaywho hmmm
I see my own board (old testing order) at 1:43. Heh.
Here in norway it really is the same, but we use screw terminals in the fuse box and don't use those gray pipes in open air. We do lots of these installations at school.
Just a great video man and ur voice also ❤️❤️ from India
Polystyrene tiles.... a firehazard if ever I saw one.
Yeah, these tiles will burn like hell.
And they are also a pain in the butt to remove because they are glued -all of the flat face? (I hope you get the point)
In that case electrical components like switch box, main board should be rated to F, possible to instal to flammable surface. Not surre if it is like that.
Great vid, I like the work, I am confused though, Germany makes you leave 50mm outside of junction boxes? even when all internal with no possible water ingress? Don't get that one :) here in AU we attach into them, like in UK.
the wire is double-insulated, so there isn't a safety issue here. They probably have that in code so that smoke/heat can escape and you can notice it before it becomes dangerous. Looks ugly though.
It's better than Brazil wiring patterns. Very clean and easy to increase new circuits as well. Thank you!
UK differences, similar to other countries:
1. Conduit SHOULD be continuous, ideally metal earthed, and sealed to all JB's with sealing glands not just pushed through membrane seals.
2. Distribution boards are called Consumer units normally and:
MUST be all steel,
smoke and fireproof,
to prevent fire progression.
Earthed to the main PE
3. Plastic Consumer units are ONLY allowed inside another larger all STEEL fully sealable enclosure
4 All cable glands MUST be appropriately sized, MUST have the correct seal for the cable style e.g oval for twin and earth, dual round hole for twin separate cables and power tails (round) must be double insulated outside the CU from the main supply point after the main fuse and pass through individual glands for maximum safety.
5. It is NOT normal to include lighting on a power circuit unless fed from a separate fuse plate. A garage supply would typically be a 40A feed to a 32A power ring and 6A lighting circuit in its own CU in the garage (or external shed).
6. The 32 A ring is capable of supplying multiple UK 13A dual outlets (26A total each dual or 6.5 kWatt per double outlet - 3.25 kW per single socket) on the basis of diversity of simultaneous loads.
So a dual socket every 1m or even 500mm is totally legitimate since the ring cable capacity to a single dual outlet is 2x24A (2.5mmsq x 2 per outlet point). This provides a WIDE safety margin on top of the rated 48A ring load capacity and 32A breaker value.
Sometimes 2 x 16A radials may be provided instead of the 1 x 32A ring. The latter is more capable and far less spike overload sensitive - important when running any kind of inverter or VFD 2-3 phase supply frequency converter feeding three phase machinery. (NOT a problem in Germany and elsewhere with domestic 3 phase being pretty much standard)
7. Unlike the US which has BARE PE connections allowed inside distribution boxes, Europe generally AFAIK and DEFINITELY the UK requires ALL bare PE connections to be sleeved in green/yellow PVC sleeving.
8. In the UK individuals are NO LONGER allowed to add new circuits to a CU or work on a CU in ANY way without obtaining Building regs approval first, AFTER preparing and submitting a plan of work in advance and having the installation fully tested for compliance afterwards BEFORE returning any power. This means it is usually cheaper to hire a registered and certified sparkie to undertake the job.
The annoying and frustrating thing for graduate Electrical & Electronic Engineers like myself, is that whilst I worked for many years as a field engineer, often on 415 and 600 volt circuits, perfectly legitimately I am NOT allowed to work on my own domestic wiring. Except that is for extending, repairing or replacing existing wiring OUTSIDE of the CU and OUTSIDE of "wet"areas e.g. Bathrooms, kitchens shower rooms etc. Yeah! Go figure!
Other differences exist for many countries.
ich wusste nicht, dass sich ein Elektriker mit so vielen Normen beschäftigen muss 😅.
Da sind nochmal tausende mehr, aber das meiste gewöhnt man sich einfach an
Gut erkannt. Elektriker beschäftigen sich mit verschiedenen Normen. Von der Sicherheit am Arbeitsplatz über die Sicherheit bei Arbeiten mit elektrischer Spannung und die Installationsnormen in dem jeweiligen Bereich in dem er Arbeitet. Je nach Umfeld ob Wohnbereich, Gewerbe, Industrie, Energie Lieferung.. Es gibt auch Regeln und Normen bei Interventionen unter elektrischer Spannung wie es bei den Kollegen der Energieversorgung der Fall ist. Alles in allem ist es nie langweilig 😜