Thanks guys. This is one of the absolute best disassembly videos I've seen. I really appreciate how you both pointed out where the clips in each part were, which direction they pointed in, etc.
That was a great video guys. I stopped and replayed much of it. Thanks so very much for making this available. And yes, I learned a lot from this teardown.
Very interesting. So the interior is basically a lot of plastic parts that clips and screws onto a steel skeleton? I would have thought that fewer larger pieces would be easier. Dash as a single thermoplast piece attached directly to the body in white. Also the computer wiring seems a bit heavy. I wonder if for lower bandwidth you could simply communicate on the 12V wires. But I guess canbus can be done with very few wires.
Indeed - all those pieces to create shapes and vents and surrounds,..... now think about the Model 3 interior,.... one long vent over the head, no real surround for the centre screen, no gauge cluster,... it's SO simple. All those parts no longer needed: all that tooling now redundant, all those bits that no longer need to be supplied. It's extraordinary how much simpler and potentially cheaper the interior trim of the 3 might be. (Might because we've yet to see the final design).
Yes. I suspect there will be a minimal forward speed display in Model 3. Maybe also autopilot info. I would do that. It might be a 50$ item so doesn't make sense to skip that.
Dan Frederiksen I'm still expecting a HUD to be built into the top with a corresponding reflective coating on the windscreen. That'd be my choice. Still, simpler and cheaper and quicker to assemble. It's all good :-)
This video is one of the gold-standards of Tesla Model S tear-downs. Well done! I'm installing sound deadening tiles under the floor carpet and noticed the carpet seems to be bolted or pinned behind the glovebox. It's where the passenger floor slopes up behind the glovebox. I'm trying to avoid removing the glove box but can't seem to get to the bolt or pin. Have you guys encountered that during your tear-downs and is there another way to get to that carpet attachment point?
i know this video is old but if someone is watching today, do not remove the studs with rubber head. those are your hood alignments. just pull the plastic pannel and the rubber head will go trough the hole. same thing when putting it back.
Hi model s 2016 here is anyway to get - + audio out from the car just wire nothing else, try to open the door to use the speakers - + but can't open the door very strong and worried to broken it if I push out hard, is there any way to get audio out - + from this car.
You don't need to remove the rubber seal around the frunk to take it out! you also don't need to remove the rubber grommits that house the plastic frunk panels!! You can pull up on the plastic and it will go through the holes, that way you wont need to adjust them later on when putting everything together!
Can anyone help me? I have to reapair a dent on rear fender on model X and I want to completely "turn off" the high voltage electricity to prevent any harm on someone while working on the car and disassembling it. I will be thankful for any answers!
I have often wondered how much weight could be taken out of it with serious effort. If significant, it could make it into a performance monster. Since the body in white is only around 190kg, there has to be a lot of weight in various details and it's not just the battery. Battery is maybe 550kg. you might try weighing a few things. Try to figure out where all the weight is. It might be a service you could sell to a lot of people. Faster than a Porsche 918 is a strong selling point for those with enough money. The lighter it is the less structure it needs so it can spiral to very significant amounts with concerted effort. Could make you world famous
The lead acid battery could be swapped with 4 small lifepo cells. Maybe the 20Ah A123 pouches or even just 8 or 12, 26650 size cells. That would be a big and perhaps inspiring start. Ideally it would be aggressive like casting an entirely new single piece dash or perhaps a super skinny borderline flimsy carbon fiber replacement for the steel frame behind the dash. Skinny the disc brakes, get the simplest lightest suspension for it, 3D print some rims, that are also a bit skinnier to makes the tire lighter because less load is needed. Take out all the plastic linings in the frunk and trunk and see how much that affects the sound of the car. Can't be too tinny. I think it's possible to make a car that looks and feels almost identical but is 500kg lighter. And that would be an awesome car. Some people would pay anything for that. The range would also be a lot greater. Aero rims while you are at it. Maybe even custom rubber cones in front and behind each wheel for aero. Careful diamond pattern shavings of the rear drivetrain spines culd also be done. It adds up. Heavy cast cases for the electronics could also be replaced. Everything is heavy in it it seems.
The Tesla does performances for a few minutes, then everything is super-hot (engine, battery, electronics and cables) and super performance are no longer feasible as the temperature of the whole has not dropped. Porsche achieves its super performance during any time as long as it has fuel. "Some German clients Tesla had a bad surprise by taking their car to the Nurburgring. They could not even complete a lap without their car starts in degraded mode to not heat the batteries." www.moteurnature.com/actu/2015/Audi-R8-e-tron-electrique.php
Just wondering, but where do you see rust? Doe you mean the galvanized steel bar in the frunk? That is meant to have aan oxidized outer later, to protect the steel.
This video was the best step by step video on how to tear down not just a car but anything. Awesome job guys.. Well done!!
Thanks guys. This is one of the absolute best disassembly videos I've seen. I really appreciate how you both pointed out where the clips in each part were, which direction they pointed in, etc.
That was a great video guys. I stopped and replayed much of it. Thanks so very much for making this available. And yes, I learned a lot from this teardown.
Excellent video guys! Great presentation, video quality, information, etc. etc.
Brilliant, lots of detail. Thanks for this.
Very interesting. So the interior is basically a lot of plastic parts that clips and screws onto a steel skeleton?
I would have thought that fewer larger pieces would be easier. Dash as a single thermoplast piece attached directly to the body in white. Also the computer wiring seems a bit heavy. I wonder if for lower bandwidth you could simply communicate on the 12V wires. But I guess canbus can be done with very few wires.
Indeed - all those pieces to create shapes and vents and surrounds,..... now think about the Model 3 interior,.... one long vent over the head, no real surround for the centre screen, no gauge cluster,... it's SO simple. All those parts no longer needed: all that tooling now redundant, all those bits that no longer need to be supplied. It's extraordinary how much simpler and potentially cheaper the interior trim of the 3 might be. (Might because we've yet to see the final design).
Yes. I suspect there will be a minimal forward speed display in Model 3. Maybe also autopilot info.
I would do that. It might be a 50$ item so doesn't make sense to skip that.
Dan Frederiksen I'm still expecting a HUD to be built into the top with a corresponding reflective coating on the windscreen. That'd be my choice.
Still, simpler and cheaper and quicker to assemble. It's all good :-)
This video is one of the gold-standards of Tesla Model S tear-downs. Well done! I'm installing sound deadening tiles under the floor carpet and noticed the carpet seems to be bolted or pinned behind the glovebox. It's where the passenger floor slopes up behind the glovebox. I'm trying to avoid removing the glove box but can't seem to get to the bolt or pin. Have you guys encountered that during your tear-downs and is there another way to get to that carpet attachment point?
You guys didn't cover how to remove the front tweeters.
I have a tesla with the regular speaker system, can you add a amp?
i know this video is old but if someone is watching today, do not remove the studs with rubber head. those are your hood alignments. just pull the plastic pannel and the rubber head will go trough the hole. same thing when putting it back.
Great video, thanks. Keep posting 👍
What is your opinion on the premium soundsystem vs the price theyre asking for it. Is it reasonable for what theyre providing their customers with?
Hi model s 2016 here is anyway to get - + audio out from the car just wire nothing else, try to open the door to use the speakers - + but can't open the door very strong and worried to broken it if I push out hard, is there any way to get audio out - + from this car.
But what’s inside the amp?
26:27 what is that yellow coating on the clips?
All of this is required to just replace the amp and sub and 4 door speakers??
is there any video for facelift version does it fit for that?
Please do videos for the model 3.
We just uploaded a Tesla Model 3 video. Check our channels.
Does the S.12P not fit standard tesla S sound systems? Also what is the charge to have you do it.
Does anyone know which pin of the amplifier quick release connector is the signal input to the amp coming from the head unit?
Where could I submit my resume??
You don't need to remove the rubber seal around the frunk to take it out! you also don't need to remove the rubber grommits that house the plastic frunk panels!! You can pull up on the plastic and it will go through the holes, that way you wont need to adjust them later on when putting everything together!
What audio equipment is behind you at the very end of the video?
Great Video!
Er.. no sound for me?
lol the dude in black is SOOO HARD...xD
Great explanations! x_x Can't way to see the Model 3 Teardown.
Good vidéo!
Can anyone help me?
I have to reapair a dent on rear fender on model X and I want to completely "turn off" the high voltage electricity to prevent any harm on someone while working on the car and disassembling it.
I will be thankful for any answers!
Kristiyan Kanev a paintless dent removal kit would be your safest bet
Great job guys. good information
damn you think a tesla would come with premium audio standard
Thank you very much for this video.
Great video. Thank you
Does doing this void any part of the Tesla Warranty?
Will not void warranty
OMG all those clips!!!!
I have often wondered how much weight could be taken out of it with serious effort. If significant, it could make it into a performance monster. Since the body in white is only around 190kg, there has to be a lot of weight in various details and it's not just the battery. Battery is maybe 550kg. you might try weighing a few things. Try to figure out where all the weight is. It might be a service you could sell to a lot of people. Faster than a Porsche 918 is a strong selling point for those with enough money.
The lighter it is the less structure it needs so it can spiral to very significant amounts with concerted effort. Could make you world famous
We believe that we could get a lot of unused parts out. And it will help to light the weight
The lead acid battery could be swapped with 4 small lifepo cells. Maybe the 20Ah A123 pouches or even just 8 or 12, 26650 size cells. That would be a big and perhaps inspiring start.
Ideally it would be aggressive like casting an entirely new single piece dash or perhaps a super skinny borderline flimsy carbon fiber replacement for the steel frame behind the dash. Skinny the disc brakes, get the simplest lightest suspension for it, 3D print some rims, that are also a bit skinnier to makes the tire lighter because less load is needed. Take out all the plastic linings in the frunk and trunk and see how much that affects the sound of the car. Can't be too tinny. I think it's possible to make a car that looks and feels almost identical but is 500kg lighter. And that would be an awesome car. Some people would pay anything for that. The range would also be a lot greater. Aero rims while you are at it. Maybe even custom rubber cones in front and behind each wheel for aero. Careful diamond pattern shavings of the rear drivetrain spines culd also be done. It adds up. Heavy cast cases for the electronics could also be replaced. Everything is heavy in it it seems.
Also new padded covered shell seats. Probably a lot of weight in the seats and nice ones could look the same but be much lighter.
take a look at the pikes peak model s, it is completely stripped out with racing seats
The Tesla does performances for a few minutes, then everything is super-hot (engine, battery, electronics and cables) and super performance are no longer feasible as the temperature of the whole has not dropped.
Porsche achieves its super performance during any time as long as it has fuel.
"Some German clients Tesla had a bad surprise by taking their car to the Nurburgring. They could not even complete a lap without their car starts in degraded mode to not heat the batteries."
www.moteurnature.com/actu/2015/Audi-R8-e-tron-electrique.php
Love you to all godbless
great
good man , I like you .....
That third fusebox and especially the 12v battery are in horrible positions. Not a mechanic friendly design.
well, it's not exactly high tech put together;) I wonder why they don't go with smart magnets instead of those stupid clips.
Is that a scratch on the screen? o.O
Why is the car so freakin' rusty?!
Just wondering, but where do you see rust? Doe you mean the galvanized steel bar in the frunk? That is meant to have aan oxidized outer later, to protect the steel.
+MetalMike50 Do* an* layer* - damn you autocorrect in a different language
I really hope that is your car since you are leaning on it and sitting on it. Not cool.