Chrystal clear! Glad to see you back! I had an oil hole drilled in the top of each rod when I converted to full floating. It was worth it. "75 Maverick with 302, 0-60 in 5 seconds. Stay cool in that heat!
I have become totally addicted to watching your videos. You explain things like no one I have ever watched/talked to. Absolutely awesome content every time.
Myvintageiron7512. I would like to ask you if you can make a video on how to properly install the piston rings and clock them. If you already have a video on it can you tell me wich one it is. I tried to find some information on your channel but you got so many videos and its hard to do. If you can make one. I think we all would appreciated because there are wayyyy too many videos of it here in you tube but they are not as detailed as you are. I like to know how to properly install them and I have questions like Do the oil ring expander ends (tips) go up or down on the piston? How do I clock them? etc... Thanks👍
Good to see you back. My next build I'm going full floater. My first build is still going strong now and it's been a few months. I never would have been able to do it without your sbc videos
@@Myvintageiron7512 If you lower the engine's rotational mass as much as possible, how much power and fuel economy is that worth? Lighter rods, pistons, crankshaft, pushrods, flex plate, everything.
if a pic is worth a thousand words, a vid is worth a million. thanks for the info. young rodder here, doing my first head and cam swap on a '65 elcamino with a 283. 461 heads going on. next build is going to be a 327 i have on the stand already, but not enough $$$ to get into it yet. cheers!
I'm rebuilding some rods w/ new pistons. Switching from LQ4 to LQ9 pistons. Can I polish up / reuse the piston wrist pins? They're full float. There was a little oil varnish buildup that made them a bit of a tight fit though.
The machine shop I took my 4.0 jeep engine to resized the connecting rods with new bolts and also pin-fit the rods what the heck is that ? it was only $32 more dollars so I agreed
Are there no Pintoseal-Gaskets available for the vortec heads? Use them everytime on the normal stuff, and they are great with their rubbertype inserts.
Have you ever saw a snap ring fail on a floating wrist pin? I love the idea of doing everything myself and not having to pay someone to heat and press my wrist pins but im also hesitant because i drive my car a little over 100 miles a day to work and im curious about the reliability. Dss pistons come with a standard looking snap ring. Are spiral locks safer?
thanks man on these videos and this amazing channel , youre helping me alot in my build although im doing an L6 engine but the basic engine rebuilding information is all from you and some basic reading here and there , i noticed that some of your videos are in 1080p but the quality is not that great whats up with that ? anyway thanks man
I have a Blue Print Engines Chevy 383 c.i. Engine with Turbo 350 in a 1977 Nova . It leaks a teaspoon size puddle of oil onto the manifold on passenger side of manifold after it runs . What is causing this and where is the oil coming from ?
So can you, with a set of bushed rods take a set of stock types pistons (hypo or cast) cut the piston pin shorter and use some sorta tool to cut a groove in the piston for sprirol locks. I know this is something of an odd question. But i cant seam to find an answer to it... Thanks
Just a question . since the rod pin doesnt really move that much, maybe 6 deg in the full rotation why does it really need a bushing. seams that if you hone the rod end to just fit the rod pin and have a good source of oil it should work fine. oh great video.
Hi! You were my instructor in 2006 for diesel engines in AZ. I remember your 383 S10, loved your class, I still remember many things you taught. How are you??
I’m on my first LS build. I am installing a set of free floating OEM dimple rods. If it was old style I would put all bearing tangs to outside. BUT these I’m not so sure. Can you give direction Thanks
Wouldn't the press fit pin make for a stronger rod assemble? Helping reduce any (cocking of piston in bore). Seems with the floating rod you are reducing two bearing surfaces in piston to one bearing surface in the rod. Are floating pins made for fighting friction or are they stronger too?
I bought a set of Icon pistons for a 390 my dad and I are building and the pistons don't fit on the factory rods. The manufacturer says to mill the pistons for clearance but I'd say it's a good .200-.250 to cut for the factory rods to fit and have plenty of room to float. I really didn't want to have the pistons cut so I bought a set of eagle H-beam rods the pistons fit on them but theirs maybe .010 of float we don't believe that's enough float what are your thoughts on this how much float do you think we need? What are your thoughts on milling pistons?
I'm having issues on finding connecting rod bearings I have 05 OS in the motor now and they are showing little wear and I was wanting to replace them before going back together with the motor and the problem I'm running into is nobody carrys this size ?
I have a 1953 235 l6. it has babbit rods I believe need to be shimmed? I have no info on this engine and no machine shop in my city (san antonio,tx) have very little knowledge about this motor would you be able to help me find a manual or some specs to put this long block back together? Thank you for all the helpfull info you provide on you channel.
LOL the good old babit bearings my advise is upgrade to a bearing insert you can use the later rod on that crank when I first started in this business we used to pour and bore the babited rods most people on here won't even know what were talking about anyhow get rid of those it will be less money to replace then that try and fix em
Myvintageiron7512 well I have already paid for them (they were expensive) as well as the crank being cut, new pistons, block bored. I started this project a few years back. I paid a local machine shop assemble it before I decided to build it myself. when I got it back to motor did not turn. I sent it back I ended up picking it up months later the same way I left it. I have everything except the main bearings I wish I would have known about the rods your talking about.
+ferlan 9 "Poured rod bearings" means that liquid metal is poured on the connecting rod. The metal cools off and then is machined. That forms the bearing. That is how engines were built until manufacturers made shell bearings, which are the bearings you see in this video.
Yea those covers are just sitting on there for now that is a SB with Dart heads and a comp roller hyd cam waiting on distributor gear that works with the steel roller can gear with that cam
Hey man I have a question! I have a 350 TBI and I've heard the 5.7 heads are junk. And I was curious into looking for a good set of heads to put on. The 350 is in a Chevy 1994 k2500 would vortec heads be a good decision? Or would you recommend a different set? And would it be a good idea to just bolt them on out of the box or bolt them on from another engine?
I would really like to get your opinion on converting a press pin connecting rod to a full floating rod to be used WITHOUT a bushing. I found I have .0007 press fit on my LQ4 connecting rod/wrist pins and wanted to make them floating so that they won't fall apart in my motor since that's not very much press fit. It will be a street/drift engine running about 450 horsepower and turning 7000 rpm. Yes I have pistons that have lock grooves in them already. What sort of clearance should I run between the rod and pin? Thanks for your input.
I would just buy a set of aftermarket rods by the time you modify yours for full floating set up you will pay about the same as a new set and won't be as strong
Myvintageiron7512 I am a machinist and can do the work myself(to save the money). I have only been doing this for about a year so I'm not the most experienced though. I don't really want to get a new set of rods because I don't want to have to rebalance my rotating assembly. If I got a set of GEN 4 floating rods would I possibly not have to rebalance the crank?
OOO I see if you can do it yourself then by all means do it the GEN 4 rods are lighter so yes re balancing would be required you can make yours full floating I have never done that to a set of those I would use a bushing you will need to measure your pins and find a bushing that works you will need to hone the small end of your rods to press fit the new bushings and then hone the bushings to fit the pins it's allot of work but it cam be done
If you are rebuilding a stock engine , how does the cost compare between refurbishing old rods and buying new OEM / aftermarket stock rods ? Thanks , Wyr God bless
It depends on what your doing the labor on these rods is around $300.00 that includes the ARP studs /resizing the big end and installing and honing the bushings it is kind of pricey you could probably get after ,market rods for around that or a little more so really you can go either way the factory 390 rods are strong and worth reworking they make a real solid foundation for a stock 390 build if your doing a higher hP build I would go aftermarket for sure
Hey I really like your videos. I've been wrenching since I was a teenager but I'm not an expert on anything. Your videos really clear up alot of things. I have a question about internally or externally balanced engines or rotating assemblies. A few years ago I had a 383 stroker built for my Vette. It is pretty much a balanced and blueprinted engine but I don't know how the builder balanced it. This vette has a turbo 400 tranny and I might go to a 5-speed. i also might change the cam. When I do these things how do I know what flywheel I can use and also what crank damper I can use if it needs changed. I am told that the way the engine was balanced affects both of these parts. thanks again for your help. Dave.
If it in internal balanced use a neutral flywheel if external you will need tp match the weight of the Flex plate a balance shop can do this your balancer and flexplate will have off set weights on them if it is external
The rods in this vid are for a stock 390 it's not the same FE that will be in the video series the one coming up is an FE stroker engine 431 CI like I said in the video still waiting for the balance shop to finish with the rotating assembly THX for asking
I'm still interested in a set of mid rise FE heads, is there any other way I can contact you other than face book? I don't have a face book account or want one, can I contact you by calling UTI and asking for you?
One thing about rebuilding FE rods. Those small end thin shell bushings have to be swaged in place with a press through swaging tool. Thats how it was done at the factory, and then honed to size. Just pressing them in and honing to size is a setup for disaster. Can't tell you how many I've seen come out on rebuilt rods because it wasnt done the proper way.
I believe he taught at the Sacramento location. I think i remember his face and voice but he wasn't ever my instructor. I may be entirely wrong but who knows.
I have stopped listening to alot of these so called "let me show how to" guys. You seem to have a very no non-sense up front way of explaining and you speak about Ford and Chevy. Very easy to understand. About done with my first ever build, can't wait to send you a video of start up.
I went to patreon.com to kick in a little money for you but when i tried it seems that the format will only accept monthly reocurring donations. I'm sorry but I don't commit much to anything on a monthly basis. Is there a way I can contribute on a one commitment at a time basis as i am able.
Thanks to your videos I'm in the process of pricing out a 390 stroker build. Do you see any issues with purchasing an unbalanced SCAT rotating assembly kit like the one in this link from Jegs? www.jegs.com/i/Scat/942/1-94620/10002/-1 Thanks for your help!
There's a k5 blazer in my area for very cheap, a running one for $680. denver.craigslist.org/cto/d/chevy-blazer/6190506024.html I can't afford that one yet, but this one I can: denver.craigslist.org/cto/d/chevy-blazer/6220436170.html the second one doesn't have an engine. I might see if I can get one of them, but I'm just not sure.
Chrystal clear! Glad to see you back! I had an oil hole drilled in the top of each rod when I converted to full floating. It was worth it. "75 Maverick with 302, 0-60 in 5 seconds. Stay cool in that heat!
I have become totally addicted to watching your videos. You explain things like no one I have ever watched/talked to. Absolutely awesome content every time.
Thanks Man
Myvintageiron7512. I would like to ask you if you can make a video on how to properly install the piston rings and clock them. If you already have a video on it can you tell me wich one it is. I tried to find some information on your channel but you got so many videos and its hard to do. If you can make one. I think we all would appreciated because there are wayyyy too many videos of it here in you tube but they are not as detailed as you are. I like to know how to properly install them and I have questions like Do the oil ring expander ends (tips) go up or down on the piston? How do I clock them? etc... Thanks👍
can't remember which video it is but he does have one on it. ill track it down and let you know.
tjhooker. ok,thanks👍👍
Good to see you back. My next build I'm going full floater. My first build is still going strong now and it's been a few months. I never would have been able to do it without your sbc videos
Very cool glad to hear it
@@Myvintageiron7512 If you lower the engine's rotational mass as much as possible, how much power and fuel economy is that worth? Lighter rods, pistons, crankshaft, pushrods, flex plate, everything.
Glad to see you back. Looking forward to the 390 build!
Another great video!! Thanks for putting the time, money and energy into dropping these great videos for all of us to enjoy!
THX
if a pic is worth a thousand words, a vid is worth a million. thanks for the info. young rodder here, doing my first head and cam swap on a '65 elcamino with a 283. 461 heads going on. next build is going to be a 327 i have on the stand already, but not enough $$$ to get into it yet. cheers!
Any chance you could do a video on how to properly break in an engine? there is a lot of info out there but I'm curious to see how you would do it!
Simple and easy to understand explanation. Thank you
As usual thanks for the good information my man👍
I'm rebuilding some rods w/ new pistons. Switching from LQ4 to LQ9 pistons. Can I polish up / reuse the piston wrist pins? They're full float. There was a little oil varnish buildup that made them a bit of a tight fit though.
The machine shop I took my 4.0 jeep engine to resized the connecting rods with new bolts and also pin-fit the rods what the heck is that ? it was only $32 more dollars so I agreed
Are there no Pintoseal-Gaskets available for the vortec heads?
Use them everytime on the normal stuff, and they are great with their rubbertype inserts.
nice to see a video from you!!Awesome work great vids ❗❗❗❗
THX
Have you ever saw a snap ring fail on a floating wrist pin? I love the idea of doing everything myself and not having to pay someone to heat and press my wrist pins but im also hesitant because i drive my car a little over 100 miles a day to work and im curious about the reliability. Dss pistons come with a standard looking snap ring. Are spiral locks safer?
Glad to see you back. Nice glock
thanks man on these videos and this amazing channel , youre helping me alot in my build although im doing an L6 engine but the basic engine rebuilding information is all from you and some basic reading here and there , i noticed that some of your videos are in 1080p but the quality is not that great whats up with that ? anyway thanks man
Glad I could help
I have a Blue Print Engines Chevy 383 c.i. Engine with Turbo 350 in a 1977 Nova . It leaks a teaspoon size puddle of oil onto the manifold on passenger side of manifold after it runs . What is causing this and where is the oil coming from ?
So can you, with a set of bushed rods take a set of stock types pistons (hypo or cast) cut the piston pin shorter and use some sorta tool to cut a groove in the piston for sprirol locks. I know this is something of an odd question. But i cant seam to find an answer to it... Thanks
you can but it's much eaiser and cheaper to just buy a set of pistons already set up for a full floating rod
Just a question . since the rod pin doesnt really move that much, maybe 6 deg in the full rotation why does it really need a bushing. seams that if you hone the rod end to just fit the rod pin and have a good source of oil it should work fine. oh great video.
Hi!
You were my instructor in 2006 for diesel engines in AZ. I remember your 383 S10, loved your class, I still remember many things you taught.
How are you??
I’m on my first LS build. I am installing a set of free floating OEM dimple rods. If it was old style I would put all bearing tangs to outside. BUT these I’m not so sure. Can you give direction
Thanks
Would you consider rebuilding or possibly stroke 390 fe,working functional motor.
I dont get with the non floating type how the small end of the rod can move freely around the pin?
your videos are top notch can you do one on sbc connecting rod lenth how to measure ect thanks again
I love watching the videos, btw must be a dangerous shop lol carrying that kind of heat
Wouldn't the press fit pin make for a stronger rod assemble? Helping reduce any (cocking of piston in bore). Seems with the floating rod you are reducing two bearing surfaces in piston to one bearing surface in the rod. Are floating pins made for fighting friction or are they stronger too?
Less likely to lock up if someone doesn't do it right.
But they'll work it's just a budget thing
I bought a set of Icon pistons for a 390 my dad and I are building and the pistons don't fit on the factory rods. The manufacturer says to mill the pistons for clearance but I'd say it's a good .200-.250 to cut for the factory rods to fit and have plenty of room to float. I really didn't want to have the pistons cut so I bought a set of eagle H-beam rods the pistons fit on them but theirs maybe .010 of float we don't believe that's enough float what are your thoughts on this how much float do you think we need? What are your thoughts on milling pistons?
Mill em they will be fine .010 is not enough you need .080
what's the difference between the 350 Chevy crank and a 305? same throw so factory cast vs cast is there a weight difference in counter weights ?
There is a slight difference in counter weights but they are interchangeable if you balance em
What diesel does that big mama crank in the background go to? Thanks for your vids!
ty for sharing. have a great day.
thanks . Now i know what my mechanic friends are talking about.
Does a 1999 magnum 5.9 come with full floating in the r/ t Configuration ?
love this channel. Great information. Can't wait to see more of the LS build. Any LS stoker builds coming up?
I'm having issues on finding connecting rod bearings I have 05 OS in the motor now and they are showing little wear and I was wanting to replace them before going back together with the motor and the problem I'm running into is nobody carrys this size ?
I have a 1953 235 l6. it has babbit rods I believe need to be shimmed? I have no info on this engine and no machine shop in my city (san antonio,tx) have very little knowledge about this motor would you be able to help me find a manual or some specs to put this long block back together?
Thank you for all the helpfull info you provide on you channel.
LOL the good old babit bearings my advise is upgrade to a bearing insert you can use the later rod on that crank when I first started in this business we used to pour and bore the babited rods most people on here won't even know what were talking about anyhow get rid of those it will be less money to replace then that try and fix em
Myvintageiron7512
well I have already paid for them (they were expensive) as well as the crank being cut, new pistons, block bored. I started this project a few years back. I paid a local machine shop assemble it before I decided to build it myself. when I got it back to motor did not turn. I sent it back I ended up picking it up months later the same way I left it. I have everything except the main bearings I wish I would have known about the rods your talking about.
poured rod bearings?
+ferlan 9
"Poured rod bearings" means that liquid metal is poured on the connecting rod. The metal cools off and then is machined. That forms the bearing.
That is how engines were built until manufacturers made shell bearings, which are the bearings you see in this video.
Looks like a small block chev behind you with usual tappet covers ?
Yea those covers are just sitting on there for now that is a SB with Dart heads and a comp roller hyd cam waiting on distributor gear that works with the steel roller can gear with that cam
What are your thoughts on the 454 with the longer 6.385 setup.
good combo
Hey man I have a question! I have a 350 TBI and I've heard the 5.7 heads are junk. And I was curious into looking for a good set of heads to put on. The 350 is in a Chevy 1994 k2500 would vortec heads be a good decision? Or would you recommend a different set? And would it be a good idea to just bolt them on out of the box or bolt them on from another engine?
I would really like to get your opinion on converting a press pin connecting rod to a full floating rod to be used WITHOUT a bushing. I found I have .0007 press fit on my LQ4 connecting rod/wrist pins and wanted to make them floating so that they won't fall apart in my motor since that's not very much press fit. It will be a street/drift engine running about 450 horsepower and turning 7000 rpm. Yes I have pistons that have lock grooves in them already. What sort of clearance should I run between the rod and pin? Thanks for your input.
I would just buy a set of aftermarket rods by the time you modify yours for full floating set up you will pay about the same as a new set and won't be as strong
Myvintageiron7512 I am a machinist and can do the work myself(to save the money). I have only been doing this for about a year so I'm not the most experienced though. I don't really want to get a new set of rods because I don't want to have to rebalance my rotating assembly. If I got a set of GEN 4 floating rods would I possibly not have to rebalance the crank?
OOO I see if you can do it yourself then by all means do it the GEN 4 rods are lighter so yes re balancing would be required you can make yours full floating I have never done that to a set of those I would use a bushing you will need to measure your pins and find a bushing that works you will need to hone the small end of your rods to press fit the new bushings and then hone the bushings to fit the pins it's allot of work but it cam be done
If you are rebuilding a stock engine , how does the cost compare between refurbishing old rods and buying new OEM / aftermarket stock rods ?
Thanks ,
Wyr
God bless
It depends on what your doing the labor on these rods is around $300.00 that includes the ARP studs /resizing the big end and installing and honing the bushings it is kind of pricey you could probably get after ,market rods for around that or a little more so really you can go either way the factory 390 rods are strong and worth reworking they make a real solid foundation for a stock 390 build if your doing a higher hP build I would go aftermarket for sure
Thanks ! :-)
God bless
Wyr
can you do a y block rebuild ?
Hey I really like your videos. I've been wrenching since I was a teenager but I'm not an expert on anything. Your videos really clear up alot of things. I have a question about internally or externally balanced engines or rotating assemblies. A few years ago I had a 383 stroker built for my Vette. It is pretty much a balanced and blueprinted engine but I don't know how the builder balanced it. This vette has a turbo 400 tranny and I might go to a 5-speed. i also might change the cam. When I do these things how do I know what flywheel I can use and also what crank damper I can use if it needs changed. I am told that the way the engine was balanced affects both of these parts. thanks again for your help. Dave.
If it in internal balanced use a neutral flywheel if external you will need tp match the weight of the Flex plate a balance shop can do this your balancer and flexplate will have off set weights on them if it is external
Is the ls build coming? Been looking for it everyday!
The rods in this vid are for a stock 390 it's not the same FE that will be in the video series the one coming up is an FE stroker engine 431 CI like I said in the video still waiting for the balance shop to finish with the rotating assembly
THX for asking
just wanted to know can I get a lease a thousand horsepower out of the LS motor
What happened to the 390FE stroker you were building?
still gona do it waiting for the 110 degree weather to go away
I'm still interested in a set of mid rise FE heads, is there any other way I can contact you other
than face book? I don't have a face book account or want one, can I contact you by calling UTI and asking for you?
One thing about rebuilding FE rods. Those small end thin shell bushings have to be swaged in place with a press through swaging tool. Thats how it was done at the factory, and then honed to size. Just pressing them in and honing to size is a setup for disaster. Can't tell you how many I've seen come out on rebuilt rods because it wasnt done the proper way.
Are those my old rods? LOL...
So full floating means less drag? Or just stronger setup?
less shock on the rod
I believe he taught at the Sacramento location. I think i remember his face and voice but he wasn't ever my instructor. I may be entirely wrong but who knows.
nope never worked in California
Anyone know which pliers to buy?
I think you should do a Buick 300 cu. in. engine, TA Performance is right there in Phoenix!
If I could find one I would
Myvintageiron7512 I have one, but I am up in Illinois.
Nice to know your a 2 A supporter, is that a glock? Can't wait to see the 390 go together, I have one for my 69 f-250 4x4 to build.
The shop is in kind of a rough neighborhood and it was 2AM
Sounds like the beginning of a Charlie Daniels song :D
Thanks for uploading
I have stopped listening to alot of these so called "let me show how to" guys. You seem to have a very no non-sense up front way of explaining and you speak about Ford and Chevy. Very easy to understand. About done with my first ever build, can't wait to send you a video of start up.
I went to patreon.com to kick in a little money for you but when i tried it seems that the format will only accept monthly reocurring donations. I'm sorry but I don't commit much to anything on a monthly basis. Is there a way I can contribute on a one commitment at a time basis as i am able.
What's with the blaster?
Thanks to your videos I'm in the process of pricing out a 390 stroker build. Do you see any issues with purchasing an unbalanced SCAT rotating assembly kit like the one in this link from Jegs? www.jegs.com/i/Scat/942/1-94620/10002/-1 Thanks for your help!
There's a k5 blazer in my area for very cheap, a running one for $680. denver.craigslist.org/cto/d/chevy-blazer/6190506024.html
I can't afford that one yet, but this one I can:
denver.craigslist.org/cto/d/chevy-blazer/6220436170.html
the second one doesn't have an engine. I might see if I can get one of them, but I'm just not sure.
They are not full floating unless they have the buttons and not the clips.
nope that is incorrect it's full floating if the pin is not pressed into the rod I'm not sure who you getting your info from but it's wrong
Really wanted to watch but left my headphones at home. Volume is bad. Maybe later.
sorry i can't hear you
ruclips.net/video/AZ0gKkLq7u8/видео.html