Thanks for your advice on the harmonic balancer dilemma I faced using the wrong parts to balance my engine. I used an 8" balancer on my 350CI Chevrolet instead of the recommended 6.75" which is the key to my problems. Thanks again!
Great video I’m self taught car guy working on my 72 montecarlo with a 388 stroker motor your video is valuable information thank you 👍. It was excellent
Thank you for all your advice! Something I noticed on my Vortec 350 -383 Exhaust manifold centering I noticed the factory manifold bolts had thicker shoulders but still had a lot of slip side to side, though noticed the old and new manifold bolt bores were perfectly centered and in line and when centered the bolt bores and manifolds lined up with the exhaust port bores perfectly. The factory bolts are sloppy. so the factory either used much wider shoulder bolts for the installation or a guide jig. My solution was to buy two steel sleeves for my grade 8 bolt's. I used these sleeves on the two end bolt's for alignment only fishing out with a dental tool after tightening the inner bolts. And moved them to the other side to finish. Either way if something is not done it will cause restrictions and excessive heat in the head's and manifolds.
It was easy for me to choose what headers I was using, either build my own or choose my only (choice) for my 94 Sonoma, Hedman spreadport Fenderwell headers with 2" primaries with 28" tubes and 3.5" collector. A thousand bucks for headers is much better than 2,000.00 to 4,000.00 for custom made.
I have an LT1/L83 installed in my 37 Chev PU. I couldn't find any headers that hugged the block enough to fit between the frame rails. The stock manifolds flare out and hit the frame. I tried Summit's cast exhaust manifolds but the were worse than stock. I found that the Hooker Blackheart manifolds fit. So my question for you, considering that I'm not modifying the engine, what size exhaust pipe should I use? I was planning 2 1/2" dual exhaust. Would I be better off with merging them into say a 3" single?
Just clarifying, you said small tube, short header is best for a street car for power between 2500-3500. However, you said long tube headers are best for low end torque. Wouldn't that mean a small tube, long header would be best? I think I missed something there. Please clarify as I am looking for low end torque for a street application. Very good topic. Thanks for doing these videos. I really appreciate it.
Well explained !! ......Twisted valve & true Hemi engines have Better scavenging & can use Less camshaft Overlap than traditional in--line valve engines......
Back in the day i was doing experiments on my Chevrolet. Went from a single regular exhaust, to a single glass pack. It sounded good, so a dual system with a pair of glass packs shouldn't sounded better, right? WRONG. I now had a massive flat spot in the carburetor. Not much if anything could fix it. I got it a little better by up jetting the carburetor, but i certainly wasn't putting headers on it. I spent too much time and money as it was.
Hey master your extremely informative videos amaze me more and more every time specially this one because I'm in the process of selecting a good set of long tube headers for my daily work truck 2010 Jeep Grand Cherokee SRT8 6.1L Hemi which has 370 CI with 10.2-1 compression ratio, i just installed a bigger camshaft ( kit ) from comp cams with these specs: - lift int 632 / exh 619 , - duration @ .050 224 int / 234 exh , - LSA 115 , valve timing @ .050 int open -5 BTDC and close 52 ABDC & exh open 49 BBDC and close 2 ATDC , also put a set of Johnson lifters standart travel with axle oiling, Melling high volume / pressure oil pump and a Borla 3" cat back exhaust system so now is time to select the proper set of headers to take full advantage of the new cam / valve train components so PLEASEEEE I'll really appreciate if you can point me in the right direction on what primary tubes & collector diameter i should go with, big thanks in advance
the best results we have seen 1-7/8 primary long tube I cant remember the collector size off the top of my head I think it was between 2-1/2 to 3 they were BBK headers
Does the scavenging of other cylinders help create a jet effect where the header manifold is welded together to help maintain the exhaust velocity? Is there a way to have good power with minimum sound? Is there a cam timing for ideal fuel consumption with minimal fuel waste or wasted forces? Or am I thinking about this wrong?
Thanks for the video. Would you consider a tri-Y configuration functionally "shorter than a 4 into 1 style? For context I'm thinking about the FE motor and Mustang/Cougar header options.
Hello Sir.. been following you for quite some time and hoping you could answer this question for me. I'm installing a roller cam in a Ford 400. 30 over with a set of 3V aluminum beads. It's going into a 80 Bronco for some street driving but more importantly doing some trails in the U.P. here in Michigan. Would you recommend a long tube header for this set up as well? Thank you.
yes definitely I have a similar set up the shorty headers took away a ton of low end TQ went to long tube huge improvement I can tell you from experience that what he explained here is exactly right
On my 347 I put a 512 left cam with 185 flow head's and I use a set of 1.5 short headers on it and it seems like it runs good. What do think about this setup?
That depends on the head flow if your running the Vortec stock heads our best results f=or that engine with no mods the factory set up was a Howards cam I don't remember the part number but it had .510 lift, 218/224 duration @.050 with 112 Lobe sep, now it is important to note that we did half to machine the valve guides down for that lift the Vortec heads will not take a .510 lift cam unless this clearanceing is done to the height of the valve guides if you try the retainer will smash into the top of the guides and that is the start of really bad things, I have heard quite a bit of chatter about beehive springs and retainers allowing more cam lift without any machine work but I have never actually done that since I have a machine shop I just use my cylinder head machine to cut the guides down it can also be done with a drill and a PC cutter with very good success I will add a link at the end of this for the tool you cany buy and cut your guides down with a drill www.summitracing.com/parts/hrs-92040?rrec=true
The negative wave in the header tube is often called a rarefaction wave. To add to the complexity: the sound speed is greatly affected by the density (how much gass is released) and its temperature. This makes theoretic design almost impossible on how a header is going to perform on what engine and on what kind of camshaft on what rpm. Luckely whe have about a hundred years of trial and error.
That is a really good point at the end of the day no matter how much theory you apply there is definitely an element of trial and error the draw back to that is changing ex systems up is expensive and time consuming if you try something and it does not work, your out some money, this is why we uses the theory to get us in the ball park I have had exhaust systems that worked really well but when installed on another engine were terrible also one thing I forgot to mention is we tested with mandrel bent tubing and with non mandrel bent tubing the mandrel bends did make a defined difference in power out put, so I also highly recommend that as well
So you're saying the exhaust valve is still open beyond BDC on the intake stroke into the compression stroke? Doesn't sound right to me. I must have misunderstood something there. I'll have to watch again.
Excellent lecture Professor!
Great info. I've learned a lot from you. I really appreciate you taking the time to share your knowledge with all of us.
This is good knowledge u can pass on to your children this man is god and he doesn’t know it him n his Asian wife
Man you sharing your knowledge is golden. I've learned more than I ever thought over the past 6 years or so.
Thanks for your advice on the harmonic balancer dilemma I faced using the wrong parts to balance my engine. I used an 8" balancer on my 350CI Chevrolet instead of the recommended 6.75" which is the key to my problems. Thanks again!
Agreed I only have 70° overlap on my 406 but my heads flow 315cfm
Good info as always.....
Very good. Thanks
Love ur videos... Learned a bit....can't wait to apply it to my lil thumper...
Great video I’m self taught car guy working on my 72 montecarlo with a 388 stroker motor your video is valuable information thank you 👍. It was excellent
Thank you for all your advice! Something I noticed on my Vortec 350 -383
Exhaust manifold centering I noticed the factory manifold bolts had thicker shoulders but still had a lot of slip side to side, though noticed the old and new manifold bolt bores were perfectly centered and in line and when centered the bolt bores and manifolds lined up with the exhaust port bores perfectly. The factory bolts are sloppy. so the factory either used much wider shoulder bolts for the installation or a guide jig. My solution was to buy two steel sleeves for my grade 8 bolt's. I used these sleeves on the two end bolt's for alignment only fishing out with a dental tool after tightening the inner bolts. And moved them to the other side to finish. Either way if something is not done it will cause restrictions and excessive heat in the head's and manifolds.
It was easy for me to choose what headers I was using, either build my own or choose my only (choice) for my 94 Sonoma, Hedman spreadport Fenderwell headers with 2" primaries with 28" tubes and 3.5" collector. A thousand bucks for headers is much better than 2,000.00 to 4,000.00 for custom made.
I have an LT1/L83 installed in my 37 Chev PU. I couldn't find any headers that hugged the block enough to fit between the frame rails. The stock manifolds flare out and hit the frame. I tried Summit's cast exhaust manifolds but the were worse than stock. I found that the Hooker Blackheart manifolds fit. So my question for you, considering that I'm not modifying the engine, what size exhaust pipe should I use? I was planning 2 1/2" dual exhaust. Would I be better off with merging them into say a 3" single?
Yes we saw more power with single 3” ex than duel with a Streight thru muffler
@@Myvintageiron7512 So run my 2 1/2 from the exhaust manifold to a 3"?
Best headers I ever ran on a fe ford were Ballinger brothers 2 3/4 outlet 180 degree they cross over side to side
Have you done a 350 or 403 olds build? Just subscribed and have been searching through your videos
Just clarifying, you said small tube, short header is best for a street car for power between 2500-3500. However, you said long tube headers are best for low end torque. Wouldn't that mean a small tube, long header would be best? I think I missed something there. Please clarify as I am looking for low end torque for a street application. Very good topic. Thanks for doing these videos. I really appreciate it.
Yes mild lower rpm stuff needs small dia long tubes
Long small tubes are best for TQ
Okay,....I want this guy to rebuild my engine,...!
Well explained !! ......Twisted valve & true Hemi engines have Better scavenging & can use Less camshaft Overlap than traditional in--line valve engines......
Yes you are correct one of the things that make hemi's so good
Dyno tests show headers make a bit more power then zoomies due to scavenging.
Back in the day i was doing experiments on my Chevrolet. Went from a single regular exhaust, to a single glass pack. It sounded good, so a dual system with a pair of glass packs shouldn't sounded better, right? WRONG. I now had a massive flat spot in the carburetor. Not much if anything could fix it. I got it a little better by up jetting the carburetor, but i certainly wasn't putting headers on it. I spent too much time and money as it was.
Yeah but it was fun right?...
@@MrSwinger1 OH yeah! When I got it up past 70, those mufflers didn't muffle anymore.
I believe we need the perfect engine designed by the master builder which is you
Hey master your extremely informative videos amaze me more and more every time specially this one because I'm in the process of selecting a good set of long tube headers for my daily work truck 2010 Jeep Grand Cherokee SRT8 6.1L Hemi which has 370 CI with 10.2-1 compression ratio, i just installed a bigger camshaft ( kit ) from comp cams with these specs: - lift int 632 / exh 619 , - duration @ .050 224 int / 234 exh , - LSA 115 , valve timing @ .050 int open -5 BTDC and close 52 ABDC & exh open 49 BBDC and close 2 ATDC , also put a set of Johnson lifters standart travel with axle oiling, Melling high volume / pressure oil pump and a Borla 3" cat back exhaust system so now is time to select the proper set of headers to take full advantage of the new cam / valve train components so PLEASEEEE I'll really appreciate if you can point me in the right direction on what primary tubes & collector diameter i should go with, big thanks in advance
the best results we have seen 1-7/8 primary long tube I cant remember the collector size off the top of my head I think it was between 2-1/2 to 3 they were BBK headers
@Myvintageiron7512 thank you so much master for your response with the information
Does the scavenging of other cylinders help create a jet effect where the header manifold is welded together to help maintain the exhaust velocity? Is there a way to have good power with minimum sound? Is there a cam timing for ideal fuel consumption with minimal fuel waste or wasted forces? Or am I thinking about this wrong?
Alot of people (on forums) say to keep manifolds for a rear mount turbo, but id still think long tubes or even shorties would be better ?
Thanks for the video. Would you consider a tri-Y configuration functionally "shorter than a 4 into 1 style? For context I'm thinking about the FE motor and Mustang/Cougar header options.
TRI Y works well
Great information, brother. What's your thoughts on X-pipe.
if done correctly they work well
@@Myvintageiron7512 sweet ty
Wow , soo cool 💪🏽💪🏽💪🏽
Morning, you built me a 350 SBC and the valve guide seals are leaking. I need to find out how much I could expect to replace them.
Hello Sir.. been following you for quite some time and hoping you could answer this question for me.
I'm installing a roller cam in a Ford 400. 30 over with a set of 3V aluminum beads. It's going into a 80 Bronco for some street driving but more importantly doing some trails in the U.P. here in Michigan. Would you recommend a long tube header for this set up as well?
Thank you.
yes definitely I have a similar set up the shorty headers took away a ton of low end TQ went to long tube huge improvement I can tell you from experience that what he explained here is exactly right
Do original ram horns flow better than log type manifolds? Mine are dual with an ex pipe. Sounds real nice.
Yes
On my 347 I put a 512 left cam with 185 flow head's and I use a set of 1.5 short headers on it and it seems like it runs good. What do think about this setup?
What’s it in
As an example. With an L31. Whats the best roller street cam to take advantage of this lesson ?
That depends on the head flow if your running the Vortec stock heads our best results f=or that engine with no mods the factory set up was a Howards cam I don't remember the part number but it had .510 lift, 218/224 duration @.050 with 112 Lobe sep, now it is important to note that we did half to machine the valve guides down for that lift the Vortec heads will not take a .510 lift cam unless this clearanceing is done to the height of the valve guides if you try the retainer will smash into the top of the guides and that is the start of really bad things, I have heard quite a bit of chatter about beehive springs and retainers allowing more cam lift without any machine work but I have never actually done that since I have a machine shop I just use my cylinder head machine to cut the guides down it can also be done with a drill and a PC cutter with very good success I will add a link at the end of this for the tool you cany buy and cut your guides down with a drill
www.summitracing.com/parts/hrs-92040?rrec=true
The negative wave in the header tube is often called a rarefaction wave. To add to the complexity: the sound speed is greatly affected by the density (how much gass is released) and its temperature. This makes theoretic design almost impossible on how a header is going to perform on what engine and on what kind of camshaft on what rpm. Luckely whe have about a hundred years of trial and error.
That is a really good point at the end of the day no matter how much theory you apply there is definitely an element of trial and error the draw back to that is changing ex systems up is expensive and time consuming if you try something and it does not work, your out some money, this is why we uses the theory to get us in the ball park I have had exhaust systems that worked really well but when installed on another engine were terrible also one thing I forgot to mention is we tested with mandrel bent tubing and with non mandrel bent tubing the mandrel bends did make a defined difference in power out put, so I also highly recommend that as well
So you're saying the exhaust valve is still open beyond BDC on the intake stroke into the compression stroke?
Doesn't sound right to me.
I must have misunderstood something there. I'll have to watch again.
Yea your misunderstanding the ex valve opens on the power stroke
The ex valve closes near TDC on the intake stroke this is overlap where the intake and ex are open at the same time