The struggle is real. My layout is in the basement with our clothes dryer. It is a lint factory. I tried No-Ox. Didnt like the fact that that I had to apply it with my fingertip to get it as a thin film. I now use CRC 2-26 and apply it with dust mops attatched to my cars. It lasts a couple weeks, but what I really like is it instantly eliminates that black carbon you get from DCC.
Ron....you are the reason I even heard of NO-OX...now I live by it. Seriously, my new Scaletrains locomotives, almost all of them sputter right out of the box. By breaking them in on my loop and letting them taste the NO-OX, that problem goes away after about 10 minutes, NO-OX ROCKS!
I bought a large 8 oz tube which is many dozens of lifetimes for use. It isn't expensive, so if you can find small containers like Ron has, don't worry about running out. I need to repack this large tube to smaller cannisters. TIP: This stuff works well on the contact strip to truck on locomotives. Very thin coating and wipe away most of that and you won't have issues there.
I’ve had the same results it was good for about a year and then started to bog down. I did what you did, cleaned, reapplied and up and running like it was. Good video
So I watched your No Ox video 2 years ago and like you purchased some to sit in its jar for a year. I finally applied it and had the same results as you of start stop constantly. I cleaned the No Ox off (with mineral spirits) but I wanted to try this again. Put on a micro smear of No Ox on the track and ran some trains. Left the layout for 2 months alone while I was away travelling. Came back, turned on track power and bam!, trains ran fine all day. Anything that didn’t run well was do to dirty locomotive wheels. While I’m still in the trail period I’m happy with No Ox. Even if I have to wipe the rails once a month it’s way better than having to detail clean the track every time. Thx for this update and your in-depth, informative videos on this product. Keep up the good work Ron.
I saw your initial video on No Ox about a year ago and bought some but did not use it as I was still building my garage layout. Last fall after most of the track was down I would clean the track with my track rubber. It worked OK but I found myself cleaning the track almost every week. So I decided to try my No Ox on a portion of the non main line track. It seemed to work really well so I applied it to all the track. That was about 5 months ago and what a difference. I have not cleaned the track since and the trains run great. I do run them several times a week for my own entertainment. Thanks for the great tip.
I definitely agree with you. I cleaned my track about a month ago with mineral spirits and then applied no-ox I'd and then ran my locos and then wiped the rails . My locos have been running better than ever before. I was cleaning track every time I wanted to run a train.
I used "No-Ox ID" and so did a good friend of mine that has a G scale and we both like the product. First I thoroughly cleaned the layout with mineral spirits and then applied the No-Ox, and it did take a while to apply as originally I applied way too much, but soon got the hang of it. It's been about 1 year since the application and the trains are running great, granted I do operate my trains often.
Running trains regularly helps keep the dust and sediment off the layout, which are things no-ox cannot help with. The no-ox will keep the conductivity high and the oxidation low, which are your enemies on the other side of the spectrum. Glad to hear you've had a positive experience. 👍🏼👍🏼
Hi ron! Great ides! How about a room size air purifier for your train room, I use one to cut down On dust. Amazon has many great models that work on reducing dust George
before i was using no-ox it was about 5 to 6 months ago i was having bad spots in my track, and trains stopping and derailing. but when i was the stop cleaning your track video i was like im gonna try this i bought it and got some mineral spirits too and cleaned my track. it was about 5 months ago was the last time i cleaned my track. and the trains are running so good now. thanks for the video!
I run both N Scale and HO scale I only set them up and run them for Christmas. The why I clean my tracks every year is I first clean the whole lay out with Isopropyl Alcohol it seems to break up that black dirt layer. Then I go over the lay out with odorless mineral spirits same one you use, then I go over it with Bachmanns E-Z Lube Rail and Road Track cleaner. After I wipe the rails dry I then add a thin layer of the No-OX-ID A special. I also clean my locomotive wheels and rolling stock wheels the same way minus the NO-OX-ID A Special. Thanks for the tip on cleaning the track with Mineral spirits and then applying the thin layer of the NO-OX-ID A Special
Hi Ron. I am in the process of working on my small 4x7 HO scale layout. I am using sectional track, but I have noticed a lot of intermittent running of the loco’s. I remembered you talking about the use of NO-OX to help with connectivity. I knew of this product, but not to improve train running. Well, I bought a jar and followed your instruction for application. WOW!!!! what a difference! Thank you for this. I can’t tell you how many of your video’s have helped me on my first attempt a my own set up. Thanks again Ernie in Philadelphia PA
I watched your first video and thought it couldn’t be any worse than cleaning the tracks every weekend. That’s what I was doing at the time. I put it on the entire layout. I started a expansion to the layout in February of this year and that’s the first time I have had to clean my track since that 1st application. Once the expansion is completed, I’ll put it on the entire layout again. Can’t thank you enough for the information you shared on this! Thank you 🙏!
Hi Ron , have some but have not applied as of yet. Still a lot to do on the layout. Didn’t want to apply until lot of work was done. Want to give the track a good cleaning before I apply. Thanks for the follow up and the feedback. Thanks for sharing. Have a good day.
When I had rust on half my layout after fifteen years of no problems I clean the track with industrial-strength Scotch-Brite pads, followed by mineral spirits, followed by NO OX. TRAINS ARE RUNNING BEAUTIFULLY.
I know a man that hasn't cleaned his track in what will be 10 years this year except for running a vaccum car over it to pick up dust and construction debris from the continuing work he doing to the layout. He's just having to keep the ballast cleaned. He hasn't had to clean the rails at all. Its not NO OX like you use but something similar that works the same way called Oxguard. It comes in a tube and is sold at Lowes Home Improvement stores. He also uses rail made of different materials all mixed together and has no problem with which he contributes to the Oxguard. I've used it on a layout and it worked for almost 5 years for me but I had to dismantle the layout and if I hadn't I'm sure it would still be working fine. Plan on using it on my next layout from the beginning. The key is you must get the rails completely super clean until no more black comes off the rails before applying the Oxguard or NO OX and don't slather it on, you only need a very thin coat and you won't have any problems. Something else that is key to its success is cleaning the wheels on all your rolling stock locomotives and everything else until you don't get anymore black off of them at all. You can then apply a thin coat to them or put them on the rail that has been treated and it will get on the wheels. If you have plastic wheels on your rolling stock they need to be super clean just like the metal ones before putting them on the treated track. It's best to have metal wheels on everything but I know no everyone can do that. Just clean the heck out of all the rail and all the wheels on your rolling stock and you'll have great success with the NO OX or Oxguard.
I put a cheap and very large “thin plastic painters drop sheet” over my layout when not in use. easy to get in place and so light, it doesn’t disturb layout decor. For huge layout, just tile enough sheets to cover. And I still use hepa filtered mini shop vac with wand extensions and a soft round natural fiber dusting brush to vacuum tracks and other layout areas periodically. Stays looking good.
I bought No Ox after watching your video that recommended it. After applying it to my rails, my trains that had been able to climb my 1.75 % helix grade, could not make it past a half of a loop. But the biggest problem was trying get it off from my track. I tried many different types of liquid cleaners, to no avail. The rough side of a piece of Masonite worked best. I threw that jar of No Ox in the trash and warned my friends.
I cannot account for the difference in experience. My first thought is to say you applied it too heavily, but at any rate I hand very little loss of traction on my 2% helix.
Thanks for the follow up. I have been hesitant to apply noox because I have heard some negative things, but like you mentioned it seems to be related to not running trains frequently. I can definitely live with an annual track cleaning for my layout, so I'm going to apply it, even to the part of my layout with grades.
Ron, you convinced me to use No Ox over a year ago from your first video. It has worked for me as well. Not perfect but a huge improvement. I don’t run mine nearly enough and I rarely have have problems even a year out.
I use no-ox now on my track and all of my electrical connections. The key is to use sparingly on the track with your finger, wipe it off and it vastly improved the performance on my locomotives Before I used No- Ox, My Kato passenger car lights used to flicker which drove me crazy, I cleaned the track with CRC electrical contact cleaner, applied the No-ox with my fingertip sparingly , wiped it lightly with a cloth then I ran the train. seems like the longer I ran the locomote, the better it ran. I have a 1.5% grade going over a lift bridge No traction problems with my long trains. Lower voltage to move the train and absolutely NO flicker. I run my trains a couple times a week and wipe the track down at least once a week with a cloth. Usually, its just a little dirt from the atmosphere on the rails. No Problem whatsoever. I'M sold personally'
With being in the 3rd car stall, you will have outside elements blow in once in awhile. I have used No Ox for about 6 months now and only had to clean a couple lengths of track and then reapplied another thin coat. It’s been a great product and Ron is right, 1 small jar will outlast my life! So always run your trains weekly.
I sused this product and am having great results. I also clean it with mineral spirit before applying No-Ox-Id. They key, especially if you have grade on the layout is not applying to much and an easy wipe down afterwards. Haven't had no issues for 4 months now.
I applied NO-OX to a third of my layout and it ran great for over a year. It was a mistake not to do the whole layout. After a year, my DCC locos seemed to have lost their minds. One of them thought it was getting throttle when the throttle was in idle. So before diving into the decoder, I started with the simplest thing first. Cleaned all the track with CRC Contact Cleaner and Protectent, then treated all the track with NO-OX. Problem solved. Lesson learned: dirty track can cause strange behavior.
I bought the NO-OX after your video about it and have had good success. However, I applied it on a 2% grade and found my trains would stall. Before anyone starts making assumptions, I applied a micro layer of it, very sparingly applied and rubbed it, so the resulting layer was very little. I had to clean it off and it took a lot of work to do so. But I do have it on all my level track and it is a wonderful product. I reviewed it on Amazon, giving it a thumbs up. So yeah, great product and it is good to hear that it can last many years. Cleaning the track is necessary, but not having to do it a lot is a good thing.
Hi Ron I agree with that product totally, what would you clean old dryed up scenic cement from track work, Ive completed a new layout and Im sure that theres a few spots with scenic cement , would mineral spirits clean the cement off ?. Thank You . Peter .
I use a similar product called De-Ox-ID, made by GC Electronics, not only for track, but for locomotive wheels, motors, and any component that has to ferry current, such as the truck bolsers and contact points on my old Varney, Mantua, and Penn Line steam locos. I buy it in liquid format, apply it with a Q-tip. It has worked exceptionally well. On my old O gauge stuff, it also helps keep the nickel handrails and trim shiny too. Between this stuff and Zoom turbine oil, my trains run quiet and smooth. Even my old Tyco Powertorque motors run very well. After all, with a little care, even they have potential!
RE: No-Ox on a helix Helpers are a big part of my operations. Can you REASONABLY overcome the adhesion problem with helpers? Or is this a nuisance issue on your layout? Normally I consider stalling a “good thing” requiring the need for helpers. Just an FYI my Helper job is usually one of the first filled.
Try Inox Ron.. It's extremely effective, and you don't have to do all the follow up. It's pretty much put it on, allow the wheels to get it on them(i run woodland scenics dust monkeys), and just run your trains. That's it..I Haven't needed to clean since October when I painted the track. No skips, stutters, nothing.. I leave the dust monkeys on a car, and just run like normal..
Thanks for the update Ron. Agreed that running trains on a regular basis is a must,difficult if you spend years in building and have life being too busy. No ox still no go for me (reference Martin@Marklin of Sweden). My main problem is damp and dusty garage and basement and having workshop area combined,so need to buy dehumidifiers,vents with filters. As stated before I run European models with some steep grades with long trains. Most locos have traction tyres so need to avoid solvents or anything reducing traction.
Great vid Ron! Can imagine the stalling and stuttering of your locomotives at first made you question the longevity of the treatment you applied. Nevertheless, as you’ve mentioned, not running trains, doing remodeling of your house, having an open corridor to your basement and drywall dust flying around will indeed cause a significant amount of dust to settle on any horizontal surface. Glad to see after thoroughly cleaning your layout, and reapplying No-Ox, your engines are running smoothly again. Cheerio
Hey Ron again good Tips I think we all experience Dust, lint & other endendo's for me no pet 🐕 Hair unless your including my Dad 👴 i truely mean no harm which seems to be blanketed with HAIRS a ton of them I guess with my thin red hair I'm just lucky & sometimes them little pesky bugs they like to find there way to our Layout's as well, In our Apt. we have to deal with silverfish & brown recluse spider's but not on daily bases.. But for my keeping up on my Track I sweep it Daily or every other with my micro brushes to keep the lent away as much as I can living in this old brick apt with its old sliding glass door it lets in dust quite a bit.. As for the NO OX ID I use it primarily on my Kato power Rail joiners my inner big yard is not powered but using the NO OX the power flows good enough I only need the Main track power I will eventually power the yard.. & I use the NO OX for cleaning the slide bars that connect to the stock Rails as for the tops of Rail I use what Gregg of Fishplate plate films always recommend Inox mx3 its primarily goal as with NO OX is to help minimize the Oxidation & the Inox also helps promote cleaner wheels but with it being in liquid form I believe Ron It's less sticky, When I Apply the product to the Rail I do so in a way to make sure its covered i then wipe the excess off with a clean free cloth I only use clothes that are met to clean Eye glasses that are lint free.. I like to see Videos like these Ron to Make people aware that even though our Hobby is Fun you still have to keep on top of things to keep em' Running.. Take Care & hope to see ya Ron at the Deshler Train Show in July Allen D
Hey Ron, thanks for the update. I consider track cleaning to be a lot like house cleaning, there’s no magic bullet it’s just something you have to do. lol
I need to build a miniature Shark robot vaccum that will follow the track. They sure work on all my floors. Now they have them that can scrub the floors as well.
Ron, I just finished watching all of your track cleaning videos. They were very informative. In your first video you talked about not using No-Ox if you have traction tires on your locomotives. I'm an O gauge guy and all of my locos have traction tires. I believe I can at least put the No-Ox on my center rail for the pickups. I just had a new model railroad installed and am having a plethora of track electrical issues which I'm sure are related to dirty track. I've used Life Like track cleaner on all of my past model railroads without much issue but with this new layout I can't get the track clean with that stuff. I'm going to use the mineral spirits and really give it a good cleaning. I'm also wondering if the CRC contact cleaner with protection, might be a better choice for O gauge railroaders. Once I start running trains regularly, I'm going to try the No-Ox on the center rail.
Which leads to the question, how do you clean the rest of your layout? I imagine that using a Shopvac or a broom would be a little hard on the trees, grass and structures. Covering the layout or adding curtains would help keep the dust out, but at some point, I imagine that some kind of vacuuming would be called for. What kind?
Ron, have you considered an air purifier of some sort for your train room? I have a 40 x 50 basement which is all open without walls. Lots of shelf units but all open. My layout is in one corner. On each side of the basement I have two small electrostatic-type air cleaners which I rinse out every 4 to 6 weeks. They run continuously. Seems to kept the dust levels very low and the air moving a bit. Just a thought. Cheers ...
I’m interested in these air filters. I currently have two dehumidifiers down there. Seasonally their water output varies, but the train room air is at a constant humidity level and I SEEM to have no problems there.
Joe Fugate of MRH did a fascinating deep dive into track cleaning a while ago too. Honestly Ron, this was looking like a three thumbs down review at first!! Then, it turned into a thumbs up... Huh?
Great information Ron. I want to model transition era California. And am considering using this stuff. To the point where I am considering deleting the traction tyres from my steam engines.
All you really needed to say was "sheetrock dust" - there's no protection on earth that can prevent SD from covering every surface known to man! Ha Ha! Great Video, much appreciated. PS - I use No-OX because of you.
Agree 100%. I had exactly the same scenario as you. I really think some people apply it too thick, causing slipperiness . My layout is in walled off section of my garage, so I have more issues with dust and oxidation, but nothing is perfect, so cleaning becomes more frequent, but, rare....thanks Ron, BTW.... (are you still ministering)?
I expect to store my train for several years. I want to get them in good shape before storing. Is the NO-Ox good to use, knowing it will be a long time before the trains are run again?
I just cleaned and applied the stuff. I tried to apply as little as possible, and I lose too much traction with my European locos, and they keep stalling on the same section. The lights on the lighted rolling stock work great, but its not really worth the issues. In order for the mail car to light up I had to put the stuff on the axels. Maybe I just need it there. Using that i end up getting even more black stuff when I wipe rails and wheels. I could be putting too much. It is my second try using it. Maybe just the mineral spirits are all I need, and the stuff can just be for axel use. My athearns work with no issue, but the HO fleischmann locos are troubled
Drywall Dust is the Devils' Curse on all Model Railroaders.... Still dealing with Drywall Dust and construction ended in 2016. Walls are painted floor is painted, everything is painted. Still get a fine light coating of Drywall Dust.
For sure the curse Eric i had to work with Drywall for 6 weeks in Highschool my last year I had to deal with it everywhere on me & my clothes I even requested to my high school that I change my cloths & take a shower before continuing my classes & another thing I do not like above my layout is plastered textured sealings I'd rather have them painted as plaster eventually if it cracks like in the event of a small earthquake drops particles everywhere including on things were you don't want it to be..
This is not my first rodeo. I've been doing residential remodeling off and on for 35 years, first professionally, and now for myself. I get how it works.
I recall that a year ago you raised the question regarding its effect on traction tires. Have you received any feedback on this? I run a lot of steam on grades. Thanks!
I actually think I answered that in last year's video, but the scoop is this. It will not harm your traction tires, but over time it will tend to coat your traction tires and render them less effective.
Hi Ron,I applied NO-OX-ID as you had described but gave me two problems 1.Producing of 'Black Dirt' increased on the rails & contaminated on wheels badly. 2.Pulling power on gradients reduced dramatically. I expect your valuable advice. Would the humid & very hot climatic conditions in Sri Lanka caused this?
I would say the No-Ox probably dried out being a thin layer. I agree not a fail, but inevitably you'll have to clean the track, but not as much by far.
Thanks for the information Ron. I am curious if you've looked into CRC 2-26 to use on your track. I have a couple of friends with garage layouts that lives in the Arkansas Delta that uses this stuff and they tell me they rarely have to clean their track, even with all the nearby farming that stirs up a lot of dirt in their area. I am debating if I want to go this route or not once I use up my existing can of Denatured Alcohol. - Jason
CRC 2-26 is an "ok" option, but is higher on the polar scale thus not as good as prohibiting micro-arcing which causes a lot of your oxidation...plus it requires reapplication more often.
@@RonsTrainsNThings Thanks for the reply. I'll go back and rewatch those two videos as I have slept since then. I am pretty sure they prefered it since it has a corrosion inhibitor to help with the hot humid summers we have in the south central US while also improving electrical connection with their layouts being in a garage because the houses in my area aren't built with basements. I do know the difference between corrosion and oxidation but it seems like everyone has their preferences and I am curious if it's based on indoor vs. outdoor and geographic weather patterns.
You are right about preferences, but I believe No-Ox would work very well in those cases as it was designed for this purpose in electrical applications including outdoor electrical junction boxes and automotive applications.
Hi Ron, I have been sharing your video with my S Scale groups and a question came up from a friend in New York State. They can’t buy mineral spirits there. What would be a good alternative for mineral spirits? Trying to research it but can’t remember the polarity part you talked about. Thank you. Merry Christmas!
I think applying it to the rails through the turnout will do that job automatically as some will almost certainly find its way to the contact area. If you apply it further to the points, go sparingly!
Any time I see a railroad in the wild, if the top of the rails are shiny, someone was playing with their trains on a regular basis. Compare to WD-40, which is Water Deterrent 40, very thin on tools and they stay untarnished too. But only with a very thin coat. Otherwise grime sticks.
Hey Sparky. I have applied No-Ix to my helix, being careful to be sparing with it. The big question there is traction. It reduced the pulling traction of my consists by 1-2 cars each, a level I could live with for better conductivity and less cleaning...because let's be honest, cleaning a helix is NO FUN! 🤣
Have you tried Track Magic from Deluxe Materials? I am curious how it would compare to No-Ox ID A Special. Since you used a bright boy in the past, have you burnished all your rails before applying no-ox? I wonder if you still have some micro-scratches that might be trapping dirt, etc...
I have not tried Track Magic. I've been asked about it before, but I don't have info on it's place on the polar scale. I did burnish my rails when I made.the switch away from the bright boy. My issue is dirt. I didn't have oxidation issues, which is what you get with the micro scratches. Plus, I never used the bright boy extensively on this layout.
@@RonsTrainsNThings I was skeptical of the Deluxe Materials products until I talked to the founder/creator. He is a chemist, which made me more open to giving some of their products a try (although I have not had time yet to try them). I might reach out to the and see if he can answer where it falls on the polar scale. Do you have the numbers on CRC-26 and No-ox ID?
May I comment? So when you had to clean the track again - did you use Mineral Spirits - again? i.e. Do it all over again? And if you had used graphite instead of No-Ox ID, wouldn't that accomplish the same thing? Clean with MS, dab graphite on the inside of the top of the rail. And that's that. My point is - graphite can be with a wooden pencil, far cheaper than No-Ox ID. So I'm not saying that No-Ox ID don't work. I'm simply saying that graphite is cheaper.
Those who use graphite use a hard graphite stick, not the soft graphite ilof a pencil, so there is still a cost. That said, I've not used graphite but know many who have with great success. No-Ox or graphite would by my 2 choices.
@@RonsTrainsNThings I've used a soft lead pencil for 6 yrs. But only twice in those 6 yrs. That's how good graphite works. Seriously, what does a pencil cost? Mine was just an old one laying around. Probably 2¢ when I bought it.
There are so many videos saying to use THIS stuff! No! THIS stuff is bad! Use THAT stuff! No! THAT stuff is bad! Use THIS OTHER Stuff! No! THIS OTHER stuff is bad! Use... I use lens cleaners like from ZEISS and lens cleaning paper. Lens cleaners are made for precision optics on $100,000 microscopes, and so have to leave no residue whatsoever and be safe for plastic and a wide variety of materials. So it must be safe for my tracks and my trains.
Sorry, I just can’t get past the “lubricant” and “grease”. We operate a large o scale railroad for a museum and when it was built, some steep grades were incorporated. Hauling over 100 o guage cars up a hill doesn’t leave room for a “thin film of grease”. I could be totally off base but… shudder.
Oxides are not conductive at all. The point here is not that No-Ox is conductive, but that is protects the track from oxidizing and thus becoming less conductive.
The struggle is real. My layout is in the basement with our clothes dryer. It is a lint factory. I tried No-Ox. Didnt like the fact that that I had to apply it with my fingertip to get it as a thin film. I now use CRC 2-26 and apply it with dust mops attatched to my cars. It lasts a couple weeks, but what I really like is it instantly eliminates that black carbon you get from DCC.
Ron....you are the reason I even heard of NO-OX...now I live by it. Seriously, my new Scaletrains locomotives, almost all of them sputter right out of the box. By breaking them in on my loop and letting them taste the NO-OX, that problem goes away after about 10 minutes, NO-OX ROCKS!
I bought a large 8 oz tube which is many dozens of lifetimes for use. It isn't expensive, so if you can find small containers like Ron has, don't worry about running out. I need to repack this large tube to smaller cannisters.
TIP: This stuff works well on the contact strip to truck on locomotives. Very thin coating and wipe away most of that and you won't have issues there.
I’ve had the same results it was good for about a year and then started to bog down. I did what you did, cleaned, reapplied and up and running like it was. Good video
So I watched your No Ox video 2 years ago and like you purchased some to sit in its jar for a year. I finally applied it and had the same results as you of start stop constantly. I cleaned the No Ox off (with mineral spirits) but I wanted to try this again. Put on a micro smear of No Ox on the track and ran some trains. Left the layout for 2 months alone while I was away travelling. Came back, turned on track power and bam!, trains ran fine all day. Anything that didn’t run well was do to dirty locomotive wheels. While I’m still in the trail period I’m happy with No Ox. Even if I have to wipe the rails once a month it’s way better than having to detail clean the track every time. Thx for this update and your in-depth, informative videos on this product. Keep up the good work Ron.
I saw your initial video on No Ox about a year ago and bought some but did not use it as I was still building my garage layout. Last fall after most of the track was down I would clean the track with my track rubber. It worked OK but I found myself cleaning the track almost every week. So I decided to try my No Ox on a portion of the non main line track. It seemed to work really well so I applied it to all the track. That was about 5 months ago and what a difference. I have not cleaned the track since and the trains run great. I do run them several times a week for my own entertainment. Thanks for the great tip.
I definitely agree with you. I cleaned my track about a month ago with mineral spirits and then applied no-ox I'd and then ran my locos and then wiped the rails . My locos have been running better than ever before. I was cleaning track every time I wanted to run a train.
I used "No-Ox ID" and so did a good friend of mine that has a G scale and we both like the product. First I thoroughly cleaned the layout with mineral spirits and then applied the No-Ox, and it did take a while to apply as originally I applied way too much, but soon got the hang of it. It's been about 1 year since the application and the trains are running great, granted I do operate my trains often.
Running trains regularly helps keep the dust and sediment off the layout, which are things no-ox cannot help with. The no-ox will keep the conductivity high and the oxidation low, which are your enemies on the other side of the spectrum. Glad to hear you've had a positive experience. 👍🏼👍🏼
Hi ron! Great ides! How about a room size air purifier for your train room, I use one to cut down On dust. Amazon has many great models that work on reducing dust George
before i was using no-ox it was about 5 to 6 months ago i was having bad spots in my track, and trains stopping and derailing. but when i was the stop cleaning your track video i was like im gonna try this i bought it and got some mineral spirits too and cleaned my track. it was about 5 months ago was the last time i cleaned my track. and the trains are running so good now. thanks for the video!
Thanks for sharing your experience. 👍🏼👍🏼
I run both N Scale and HO scale I only set them up and run them for Christmas. The why I clean my tracks every year is I first clean the whole lay out with Isopropyl Alcohol it seems to break up that black dirt layer. Then I go over the lay out with odorless mineral spirits same one you use, then I go over it with Bachmanns E-Z Lube Rail and Road Track cleaner. After I wipe the rails dry I then add a thin layer of the No-OX-ID A special. I also clean my locomotive wheels and rolling stock wheels the same way minus the NO-OX-ID A Special. Thanks for the tip on cleaning the track with Mineral spirits and then applying the thin layer of the NO-OX-ID A Special
I've applied No-Ox to my circle test track and 2 foot piece and the programing track and all is good so far. Thanks Ron.
Hi Ron. I am in the process of working on my small 4x7 HO scale layout. I am using sectional track, but I have noticed a lot of intermittent running of the loco’s. I remembered you talking about the use of NO-OX to help with connectivity. I knew of this product, but not to improve train running. Well, I bought a jar and followed your instruction for application. WOW!!!! what a difference! Thank you for this. I can’t tell you how many of your video’s have helped me on my first attempt a my own set up. Thanks again
Ernie in Philadelphia PA
I watched your first video and thought it couldn’t be any worse than cleaning the tracks every weekend. That’s what I was doing at the time. I put it on the entire layout. I started a expansion to the layout in February of this year and that’s the first time I have had to clean my track since that 1st application. Once the expansion is completed, I’ll put it on the entire layout again. Can’t thank you enough for the information you shared on this! Thank you 🙏!
Hi Ron , have some but have not applied as of yet. Still a lot to do on the layout. Didn’t want to apply until lot of work was done. Want to give the track a good cleaning before I apply. Thanks for the follow up and the feedback. Thanks for sharing. Have a good day.
When I had rust on half my layout after fifteen years of no problems I clean the track with industrial-strength Scotch-Brite pads, followed by mineral spirits, followed by NO OX. TRAINS ARE RUNNING BEAUTIFULLY.
I know a man that hasn't cleaned his track in what will be 10 years this year except for running a vaccum car over it to pick up dust and construction debris from the continuing work he doing to the layout. He's just having to keep the ballast cleaned. He hasn't had to clean the rails at all. Its not NO OX like you use but something similar that works the same way called Oxguard. It comes in a tube and is sold at Lowes Home Improvement stores. He also uses rail made of different materials all mixed together and has no problem with which he contributes to the Oxguard. I've used it on a layout and it worked for almost 5 years for me but I had to dismantle the layout and if I hadn't I'm sure it would still be working fine. Plan on using it on my next layout from the beginning. The key is you must get the rails completely super clean until no more black comes off the rails before applying the Oxguard or NO OX and don't slather it on, you only need a very thin coat and you won't have any problems. Something else that is key to its success is cleaning the wheels on all your rolling stock locomotives and everything else until you don't get anymore black off of them at all. You can then apply a thin coat to them or put them on the rail that has been treated and it will get on the wheels. If you have plastic wheels on your rolling stock they need to be super clean just like the metal ones before putting them on the treated track. It's best to have metal wheels on everything but I know no everyone can do that. Just clean the heck out of all the rail and all the wheels on your rolling stock and you'll have great success with the NO OX or Oxguard.
I put a cheap and very large “thin plastic painters drop sheet” over my layout when not in use. easy to get in place and so light, it doesn’t disturb layout decor. For huge layout, just tile enough sheets to cover. And I still use hepa filtered mini shop vac with wand extensions and a soft round natural fiber dusting brush to vacuum tracks and other layout areas periodically. Stays looking good.
I bought No Ox after watching your video that recommended it. After applying it to my rails, my trains that had been able to climb my 1.75 % helix grade, could not make it past a half of a loop. But the biggest problem was trying get it off from my track. I tried many different types of liquid cleaners, to no avail. The rough side of a piece of Masonite worked best. I threw that jar of No Ox in the trash and warned my friends.
I cannot account for the difference in experience. My first thought is to say you applied it too heavily, but at any rate I hand very little loss of traction on my 2% helix.
Thanks for the follow up. I have been hesitant to apply noox because I have heard some negative things, but like you mentioned it seems to be related to not running trains frequently. I can definitely live with an annual track cleaning for my layout, so I'm going to apply it, even to the part of my layout with grades.
Ron, you convinced me to use No Ox over a year ago from your first video. It has worked for me as well. Not perfect but a huge improvement. I don’t run mine nearly enough and I rarely have have problems even a year out.
I use no-ox now on my track and all of my electrical connections. The key is to use sparingly on the track with your finger, wipe it off and it vastly improved the performance on my locomotives Before I used No- Ox, My Kato passenger car lights used to flicker which drove me crazy, I cleaned the track with CRC electrical contact cleaner, applied the No-ox with my fingertip sparingly , wiped it lightly with a cloth then I ran the train. seems like the longer I ran the locomote, the better it ran. I have a 1.5% grade going over a lift bridge No traction problems with my long trains. Lower voltage to move the train and absolutely NO flicker. I run my trains a couple times a week and wipe the track down at least once a week with a cloth. Usually, its just a little dirt from the atmosphere on the rails. No Problem whatsoever. I'M sold personally'
Awesome!
With being in the 3rd car stall, you will have outside elements blow in once in awhile. I have used No Ox for about 6 months now and only had to clean a couple lengths of track and then reapplied another thin coat. It’s been a great product and Ron is right, 1 small jar will outlast my life! So always run your trains weekly.
I sused this product and am having great results. I also clean it with mineral spirit before applying No-Ox-Id. They key, especially if you have grade on the layout is not applying to much and an easy wipe down afterwards. Haven't had no issues for 4 months now.
I applied NO-OX to a third of my layout and it ran great for over a year. It was a mistake not to do the whole layout. After a year, my DCC locos seemed to have lost their minds. One of them thought it was getting throttle when the throttle was in idle. So before diving into the decoder, I started with the simplest thing first. Cleaned all the track with CRC Contact Cleaner and Protectent, then treated all the track with NO-OX. Problem solved. Lesson learned: dirty track can cause strange behavior.
No that's strange.
I bought the NO-OX after your video about it and have had good success. However, I applied it on a 2% grade and found my trains would stall. Before anyone starts making assumptions, I applied a micro layer of it, very sparingly applied and rubbed it, so the resulting layer was very little. I had to clean it off and it took a lot of work to do so. But I do have it on all my level track and it is a wonderful product. I reviewed it on Amazon, giving it a thumbs up. So yeah, great product and it is good to hear that it can last many years. Cleaning the track is necessary, but not having to do it a lot is a good thing.
Hi Ron I agree with that product totally, what would you clean old dryed up scenic cement from track work, Ive completed a new layout and Im sure that theres a few spots with scenic cement , would mineral spirits clean the cement off ?.
Thank You .
Peter .
I am getting back into the hobby after 23 years. I ran it for two to three years, I have never cleaned the track. Not had any problems.
I use a similar product called De-Ox-ID, made by GC Electronics, not only for track, but for locomotive wheels, motors, and any component that has to ferry current, such as the truck bolsers and contact points on my old Varney, Mantua, and Penn Line steam locos. I buy it in liquid format, apply it with a Q-tip. It has worked exceptionally well. On my old O gauge stuff, it also helps keep the nickel handrails and trim shiny too. Between this stuff and Zoom turbine oil, my trains run quiet and smooth. Even my old Tyco Powertorque motors run very well. After all, with a little care, even they have potential!
RE: No-Ox on a helix
Helpers are a big part of my operations. Can you REASONABLY overcome the adhesion problem with helpers? Or is this a nuisance issue on your layout? Normally I consider stalling a “good thing” requiring the need for helpers. Just an FYI my Helper job is usually one of the first filled.
Helper service would certainly change things for the better.
Try Inox Ron.. It's extremely effective, and you don't have to do all the follow up. It's pretty much put it on, allow the wheels to get it on them(i run woodland scenics dust monkeys), and just run your trains. That's it..I Haven't needed to clean since October when I painted the track. No skips, stutters, nothing.. I leave the dust monkeys on a car, and just run like normal..
Inox.works no differently than No-Ox. Neither can keep dust in the air from settling on the track/layout.
Thanks for the update Ron.
Agreed that running trains on a regular basis is a must,difficult if you spend years in building and have life being too busy.
No ox still no go for me (reference Martin@Marklin of Sweden).
My main problem is damp and dusty garage and basement and having workshop area combined,so need to buy dehumidifiers,vents with filters.
As stated before I run European models with some steep grades with long trains.
Most locos have traction tyres so need to avoid solvents or anything reducing traction.
No-Ox will not damage traction tires, but it will cost them over time and render them less effective.
Great vid Ron! Can imagine the stalling and stuttering of your locomotives at first made you question the longevity of the treatment you applied. Nevertheless, as you’ve mentioned, not running trains, doing remodeling of your house, having an open corridor to your basement and drywall dust flying around will indeed cause a significant amount of dust to settle on any horizontal surface. Glad to see after thoroughly cleaning your layout, and reapplying No-Ox, your engines are running smoothly again. Cheerio
Hey Ron again good Tips I think we all experience Dust, lint & other endendo's for me no pet 🐕 Hair unless your including my Dad 👴 i truely mean no harm which seems to be blanketed with HAIRS a ton of them I guess with my thin red hair I'm just lucky & sometimes them little pesky bugs they like to find there way to our Layout's as well, In our Apt. we have to deal with silverfish & brown recluse spider's but not on daily bases.. But for my keeping up on my Track I sweep it Daily or every other with my micro brushes to keep the lent away as much as I can living in this old brick apt with its old sliding glass door it lets in dust quite a bit.. As for the NO OX ID I use it primarily on my Kato power Rail joiners my inner big yard is not powered but using the NO OX the power flows good enough I only need the Main track power I will eventually power the yard.. & I use the NO OX for cleaning the slide bars that connect to the stock Rails as for the tops of Rail I use what Gregg of Fishplate plate films always recommend Inox mx3 its primarily goal as with NO OX is to help minimize the Oxidation & the Inox also helps promote cleaner wheels but with it being in liquid form I believe Ron It's less sticky, When I Apply the product to the Rail I do so in a way to make sure its covered i then wipe the excess off with a clean free cloth I only use clothes that are met to clean Eye glasses that are lint free..
I like to see Videos like these Ron to Make people aware that even though our Hobby is Fun you still have to keep on top of things to keep em' Running..
Take Care & hope to see ya Ron at the Deshler Train Show in July Allen D
I used this a year ago. My trains still run excellent!
Thank you very much for the update Ron. Obviously it works well unless you throw dirt or Sheetrock dust on the tracks. Lol.
Great video and update. Nothing is perfect, but agree with your analysis/thoughts. Run them trains!
Thank you for the update Ron, I appreciate your candor.
Thanks for sharing. Getting ready to do a deep cleaning of the layout so this video came at a good time.
Hey Ron, thanks for the update. I consider track cleaning to be a lot like house cleaning, there’s no magic bullet it’s just something you have to do. lol
As an electrician we use a form of no ox on wires to keep oxidation off wires and promote better connections so i understand why it works for you
I need to build a miniature Shark robot vaccum that will follow the track. They sure work on all my floors. Now they have them that can scrub the floors as well.
Ron, I just finished watching all of your track cleaning videos. They were very informative. In your first video you talked about not using No-Ox if you have traction tires on your locomotives. I'm an O gauge guy and all of my locos have traction tires. I believe I can at least put the No-Ox on my center rail for the pickups. I just had a new model railroad installed and am having a plethora of track electrical issues which I'm sure are related to dirty track. I've used Life Like track cleaner on all of my past model railroads without much issue but with this new layout I can't get the track clean with that stuff. I'm going to use the mineral spirits and really give it a good cleaning. I'm also wondering if the CRC contact cleaner with protection, might be a better choice for O gauge railroaders. Once I start running trains regularly, I'm going to try the No-Ox on the center rail.
Which leads to the question, how do you clean the rest of your layout? I imagine that using a Shopvac or a broom would be a little hard on the trees, grass and structures. Covering the layout or adding curtains would help keep the dust out, but at some point, I imagine that some kind of vacuuming would be called for. What kind?
I just use a shop vac. If I'm concerned about sucking up parts in an area, I put a stocking over the end.
Ron, have you considered an air purifier of some sort for your train room? I have a 40 x 50 basement which is all open without walls. Lots of shelf units but all open. My layout is in one corner. On each side of the basement I have two small electrostatic-type air cleaners which I rinse out every 4 to 6 weeks. They run continuously. Seems to kept the dust levels very low and the air moving a bit. Just a thought. Cheers ...
That is a good idea. I don't know why I don't have one...or two...but I should.probably invest in one.
I’m interested in these air filters. I currently have two dehumidifiers down there. Seasonally their water output varies, but the train room air is at a constant humidity level and I SEEM to have no problems there.
@@paulthewall4764 Paul ... I use two small tabletop units from Oreck. Also have one dehumidifier mostly for the summer months.
I just purchased 2 air purifiers and am testing to see how much difference they make. If I am pleased with the results I may buy 2 more for upstairs.
Ron try a large room air purifier! I use it for my O 3 rail layout. It works .
George
Joe Fugate of MRH did a fascinating deep dive into track cleaning a while ago too. Honestly Ron, this was looking like a three thumbs down review at first!! Then, it turned into a thumbs up... Huh?
I referenced Joe's article in the first video. It was great info.
Great information Ron. I want to model transition era California. And am considering using this stuff. To the point where I am considering deleting the traction tyres from my steam engines.
You don't need to remove them. No-Ox won't damage them, but it will render them less effective.
All you really needed to say was "sheetrock dust" - there's no protection on earth that can prevent SD from covering every surface known to man! Ha Ha! Great Video, much appreciated. PS - I use No-OX because of you.
You are absolutely right about the sheetrock dust. I will be glad to have that work done. 👍🏼👍🏼
@@RonsTrainsNThings Smart people would use SD to check the safety of biolabs, ha ha - I wish you the best Sir!
Agree 100%. I had exactly the same scenario as you. I really think some people apply it too thick, causing slipperiness . My layout is in walled off section of my garage, so I have more issues with dust and oxidation, but nothing is perfect, so cleaning becomes more frequent, but, rare....thanks Ron, BTW.... (are you still ministering)?
(Yes,I am.)
I expect to store my train for several years. I want to get them in good shape before storing. Is the NO-Ox good to use, knowing it will be a long time before the trains are run again?
I've learned that also if you run plastic wheels, that those wheels lay down contamination that will affect performance.
have you used ACT 6006 Track and Rail Cleaner with the CMX Machine?
I just cleaned and applied the stuff. I tried to apply as little as possible, and I lose too much traction with my European locos, and they keep stalling on the same section. The lights on the lighted rolling stock work great, but its not really worth the issues. In order for the mail car to light up I had to put the stuff on the axels. Maybe I just need it there. Using that i end up getting even more black stuff when I wipe rails and wheels. I could be putting too much. It is my second try using it. Maybe just the mineral spirits are all I need, and the stuff can just be for axel use. My athearns work with no issue, but the HO fleischmann locos are troubled
Can you use this treatment: mineral spirit clean and treat with No-Ox, on O guage track for Lionel tracks?
Drywall Dust is the Devils' Curse on all Model Railroaders.... Still dealing with Drywall Dust and construction ended in 2016. Walls are painted floor is painted, everything is painted. Still get a fine light coating of Drywall Dust.
Devil's curse...I cannot argue with that.
For sure the curse Eric i had to work with Drywall for 6 weeks in Highschool my last year I had to deal with it everywhere on me & my clothes I even requested to my high school that I change my cloths & take a shower before continuing my classes & another thing I do not like above my layout is plastered textured sealings I'd rather have them painted as plaster eventually if it cracks like in the event of a small earthquake drops particles everywhere including on things were you don't want it to be..
A good white pleated hvac air filter… hvac systems should not be running during construction. Especially drywall sanding
This is not my first rodeo. I've been doing residential remodeling off and on for 35 years, first professionally, and now for myself. I get how it works.
I recall that a year ago you raised the question regarding its effect on traction tires. Have you received any feedback on this? I run a lot of steam on grades. Thanks!
I actually think I answered that in last year's video, but the scoop is this. It will not harm your traction tires, but over time it will tend to coat your traction tires and render them less effective.
Ron, great video as always. I may have missed your commentary on this but what a plastic wheels, any negative interaction with the grease? thank you!!
So, what about cleaning track that runs thru a tunnel? How can you clean that part of the track?
Ron, I think applying NO-OX on the contacting surfaces of switch blades and stock rails would improve the current flow in turnouts.What is your idea?
Just don't over apply and wipe away the access, but yes
Hi Ron,I applied NO-OX-ID as you had described but gave me two problems
1.Producing of 'Black Dirt' increased on the rails & contaminated on wheels badly.
2.Pulling power on gradients reduced dramatically.
I expect your valuable advice.
Would the humid & very hot climatic conditions in Sri Lanka caused this?
Hi, Ron. I have both Nickle-steel and cheaper steel HO code 100 track. Does that have a bearing on your cleaning method's effectiveness?
Good Stuff Ron thanks for posting this.
I bought some when you recommended it 2 years ago havent put it on my layout yet but soon cause my layout is almost track permanant finally!
Do u use it on all three rails of a Fastrack? Or just the outside rails?
All rails.
Thanks Ron!
I would say the No-Ox probably dried out being a thin layer. I agree not a fail, but inevitably you'll have to clean the track, but not as much by far.
Thanks for the information Ron. I am curious if you've looked into CRC 2-26 to use on your track. I have a couple of friends with garage layouts that lives in the Arkansas Delta that uses this stuff and they tell me they rarely have to clean their track, even with all the nearby farming that stirs up a lot of dirt in their area. I am debating if I want to go this route or not once I use up my existing can of Denatured Alcohol. - Jason
Jason, if you go back to his video from 2 years ago, he talks about CRC 2-26 and a "better" option.
CRC 2-26 is an "ok" option, but is higher on the polar scale thus not as good as prohibiting micro-arcing which causes a lot of your oxidation...plus it requires reapplication more often.
@@RonsTrainsNThings Thanks for the reply. I'll go back and rewatch those two videos as I have slept since then. I am pretty sure they prefered it since it has a corrosion inhibitor to help with the hot humid summers we have in the south central US while also improving electrical connection with their layouts being in a garage because the houses in my area aren't built with basements. I do know the difference between corrosion and oxidation but it seems like everyone has their preferences and I am curious if it's based on indoor vs. outdoor and geographic weather patterns.
You are right about preferences, but I believe No-Ox would work very well in those cases as it was designed for this purpose in electrical applications including outdoor electrical junction boxes and automotive applications.
Hi Ron, I have been sharing your video with my S Scale groups and a question came up from a friend in New York State. They can’t buy mineral spirits there. What would be a good alternative for mineral spirits?
Trying to research it but can’t remember the polarity part you talked about. Thank you. Merry Christmas!
What mineral spirit do you use? The link in the description is wrong.
Sorry about that. I fixed the link in the description, but here it is: amzn.to/3nXSpXL
What are your thoughts on using it on switch points say Pico track snap turn out for keeping turnouts working well?
I think applying it to the rails through the turnout will do that job automatically as some will almost certainly find its way to the contact area. If you apply it further to the points, go sparingly!
Any time I see a railroad in the wild, if the top of the rails are shiny, someone was playing with their trains on a regular basis. Compare to WD-40, which is Water Deterrent 40, very thin on tools and they stay untarnished too. But only with a very thin coat. Otherwise grime sticks.
Just snacthed the last one on Amazon :)
Ron, did you use any sort of vacuum when you cleaned it? And if so, what? Mike
That does it; I'm buying some No Ox.
what about in a helix? would you recommend using it there? like mine,, think yours is about the same
Hey Sparky. I have applied No-Ix to my helix, being careful to be sparing with it. The big question there is traction. It reduced the pulling traction of my consists by 1-2 cars each, a level I could live with for better conductivity and less cleaning...because let's be honest, cleaning a helix is NO FUN! 🤣
Have you tried Track Magic from Deluxe Materials? I am curious how it would compare to No-Ox ID A Special.
Since you used a bright boy in the past, have you burnished all your rails before applying no-ox? I wonder if you still have some micro-scratches that might be trapping dirt, etc...
I have not tried Track Magic. I've been asked about it before, but I don't have info on it's place on the polar scale. I did burnish my rails when I made.the switch away from the bright boy. My issue is dirt. I didn't have oxidation issues, which is what you get with the micro scratches. Plus, I never used the bright boy extensively on this layout.
@@RonsTrainsNThings I was skeptical of the Deluxe Materials products until I talked to the founder/creator. He is a chemist, which made me more open to giving some of their products a try (although I have not had time yet to try them).
I might reach out to the and see if he can answer where it falls on the polar scale. Do you have the numbers on CRC-26 and No-ox ID?
As him specifically what the dielectric constant of his product is. If it is below 3 it should be good.
@@RonsTrainsNThings Thanks
hello ron's its is randy and i like yours video is cool thanks friends randy
Great video. 👍
Is it grease?
May I comment? So when you had to clean the track again - did you use Mineral Spirits - again? i.e. Do it all over again? And if you had used graphite instead of No-Ox ID, wouldn't that accomplish the same thing? Clean with MS, dab graphite on the inside of the top of the rail. And that's that. My point is - graphite can be with a wooden pencil, far cheaper than No-Ox ID. So I'm not saying that No-Ox ID don't work. I'm simply saying that graphite is cheaper.
Those who use graphite use a hard graphite stick, not the soft graphite ilof a pencil, so there is still a cost. That said, I've not used graphite but know many who have with great success. No-Ox or graphite would by my 2 choices.
@@RonsTrainsNThings I've used a soft lead pencil for 6 yrs. But only twice in those 6 yrs. That's how good graphite works. Seriously, what does a pencil cost? Mine was just an old one laying around. Probably 2¢ when I bought it.
There are so many videos saying to use THIS stuff!
No! THIS stuff is bad! Use THAT stuff!
No! THAT stuff is bad! Use THIS OTHER Stuff!
No! THIS OTHER stuff is bad! Use...
I use lens cleaners like from ZEISS and lens cleaning paper.
Lens cleaners are made for precision optics on $100,000 microscopes, and so have to leave no residue whatsoever and be safe for plastic and a wide variety of materials.
So it must be safe for my tracks and my trains.
How about a video on cleaning your layout!
Get the full scoop on track cleaners and cleaning products here: ruclips.net/video/lBYxjcTWCB0/видео.html
Looked for you at Pro Rail but did not see you.
Wasn't invited.
@@RonsTrainsNThings this might be a PM thing…
Sorry, I just can’t get past the “lubricant” and “grease”. We operate a large o scale railroad for a museum and when it was built, some steep grades were incorporated. Hauling over 100 o guage cars up a hill doesn’t leave room for a “thin film of grease”.
I could be totally off base but… shudder.
The oxide of nickel silver is more conductive than any coating you could apply to the rails. Full stop.
Oxides are not conductive at all. The point here is not that No-Ox is conductive, but that is protects the track from oxidizing and thus becoming less conductive.
@@RonsTrainsNThings According to Wikipedia, the oxide of nickel silver is conductive, although there is no citation for that.