unironically just saved me from burning down my house lol. Was using a sonic cleaner for the first time and was too impatient to wait for my simply green to arrive, I was about to try alcohol.
@@lovedeathdice WOOOPS..... I used Isoprop in a sonic cleaner for 5 times 5 minutes and was wondering why it got all hot inside.... not my brightest moment to be fair....
So, fun fact. I DID use Iso Alcohol in a sonic cleaner once. The good: it didn't catch on fire and it did strip my models. The bad: it also stripped all the chrome plating inside the lid and around the edges of the cleaner. Now I only use LA's Totally Awesome in it and have luckily learned my lesson without too much incident. I've tried Simple Green and it just refuses to work for me.
A tip if you want to use isopropil alcohol in the sonic cleaner: fill a jar with the alcohol and put the minis inside, after place it in the sonic cleaner and fill it with water, leave the jar open and works perfectly. I worked in a lab for 4 years and that was the way we used to use alcohol to clean.
@@lovedeathdice No, I used that technic to strip a lot of minis I found 4 years ago and I had no problem at all, no bubbles, flames or nothing like that, just a bit warm on contact. I need to say the minis were no prime and I run the sonic thingy for 15 minutes on periods of 5 minutes each, it's the max time my machine can run. other good thing of doing that is the less amount of alcohol you use because you don't fill the whole sonic container.
You sir are a message from the Lord Almighty. I’ve decided that I really don’t like using contrast on my ultramarines so I am going to strip them and do 22nd Nemesis Chapter Colors on them and you sir popped up just as I made the decision. Thank you so much.
Spray paint army painter deep blue and then zenithal spray vallejo magic blue. It's a touch bright but falls right into place after some streaking grime once all the other bits are painted.
how did you do the volkites on the tartaros termies? it looks like the plastic heavy weapon and maybe the tartaros heavy flamer arm? its a cool way to build contekar
@@lovedeathdiceawesome, looking forward to it. very cool way to make your own Contekar. i also like the various chaos marine chainswords you are using as Chainblades and chain glaves, ive done the same.
Kantor is an awesome color, reminds me of Prussian blue. I've found lately that i'm leaning away from citadel paints though, the pots just dry out so fast and paint consistency is all over the place.
My dude, MY DUDE. Not everyone in the world lives in the US. wtf is a simple green ? What is made of ? Whats the brand ? Every damn channel that have tutorials about striping minis talks about simples green i never say dfq is simple green
The US uses simple green. UK traditionally uses Dettol (sp?). Iirc, Australia uses something called Fairy Clean or something akin to it. End of the day, it's whatever household grade degreaser you have available: give a test mini a bath for 24hrs and run with it. Video mentioned LAs Totally Awesome. It's dirt cheap in the US, but elsewhere is bound to have similar.
Stripping models seems to be all the rage lately when it comes to repainting models. But in most cases if you've not applied thick coats that obscure the details, painting over the existing layers is the way to go. Saves time, money, and no noticeable difference as to whether you've stripped an existing paint job or not.
" if you've not applied thick coats that obscure the details, painting over the existing layers is the way to go" but how many people who need to repaint their models will have done that? More than likely people who did a bad first job will have used too much paint.
@ge2719 a lot, possibly the majority of people's "bad" paint jobs is not being happy with the colours they've put down after seeing it on the model, and they've not applied thick layers. The models in this video did not look like they needed stripping, and are an example of not liking the colour.
Isopropyl alcohol reacts with waxier, often cheaper, brands of resin. You can't soak those types of resins in alcohol for more than a few minutes before you cure them.
Fair warning, iso can cause certain resins to soften or even degrade and oftem loosens superglue bonds if left for too long. Just be mindful when using it to strip 3d printed models!
None at all! I've heard that it can dislodge bits secured with super glue but it didn't happen to me. More than likely the distance between the magnet and the base was so small, bubbles couldn't get in there and mess with the connection.
Some resins really don't like alcohol. I'm not a chemist, so I can't tell you why that is, but let's just say, I have been stripping armies for a few years. FW, finecast and Kromlech resin really don't like being submerged in alcohol for longer periods of time, spellcrow stuff and everything 3D-printed doesn't have this issue.
for the resins that did and did not dissolve, it probably boils down to "water washable" or if they're not the "IBS like" from my experience. if it's cast resin, there should be warping and other problems, so don't strip resin models unless you've figured something out
I just discovered Ak-Interactive stripper product. Instead of dipping miniatures in a product that will make them kind of (too) soft, you just apply the product on the mini, wait for 3 minutes and paint goes off. Sure, it'S maybe not for an entire army, but it's way better this way than the one in the video for about 1 to 6 minis. And no, it 's not the same as isopropyl (even if it smells the same, there is probably some) because I tried the same method as suggested on the bottle and it does not work at all.
This is a great video for anyone looking to strip minis. However, the CC's reason for stripping his models, is a whole different bag of 'y u do dis?' From the appearance of the models, you could've achieved the dark blue look by doing a reverse zenethil with either a black/dark blue mix, or using a really thick, black oil wash.
A reverse zenithal is what I ended up doing after stripping them! It wasn't so much that the colors were off, it's that the airbrushing created a spotty look that I just hated. Spray paint got me the look I was going for with much less hassle
![Noob To Max With DRAGON REWORK In Blox Fruits [FULL MOVIE]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/LnBMOinoOvA/mqdefault.jpg)
unironically just saved me from burning down my house lol. Was using a sonic cleaner for the first time and was too impatient to wait for my simply green to arrive, I was about to try alcohol.
GOOD. Yeah I was so close to trying it myself and something in my brain was like...maybe you should look up what would happen just in case...
@@lovedeathdice WOOOPS..... I used Isoprop in a sonic cleaner for 5 times 5 minutes and was wondering why it got all hot inside.... not my brightest moment to be fair....
So, fun fact. I DID use Iso Alcohol in a sonic cleaner once. The good: it didn't catch on fire and it did strip my models. The bad: it also stripped all the chrome plating inside the lid and around the edges of the cleaner. Now I only use LA's Totally Awesome in it and have luckily learned my lesson without too much incident. I've tried Simple Green and it just refuses to work for me.
Thankfully you didn't get hurt! Hopefully the fumes weren't to bad yeesh
You truly inspire confidence in my models and help me embrace mistakes without feeling discouraged. Thanks a lot!
A tip if you want to use isopropil alcohol in the sonic cleaner: fill a jar with the alcohol and put the minis inside, after place it in the sonic cleaner and fill it with water, leave the jar open and works perfectly. I worked in a lab for 4 years and that was the way we used to use alcohol to clean.
That's fascinating! Is it because no bubbles would make it to the alcohol? Thus no mini explosions/popping
@@lovedeathdice No, I used that technic to strip a lot of minis I found 4 years ago and I had no problem at all, no bubbles, flames or nothing like that, just a bit warm on contact. I need to say the minis were no prime and I run the sonic thingy for 15 minutes on periods of 5 minutes each, it's the max time my machine can run. other good thing of doing that is the less amount of alcohol you use because you don't fill the whole sonic container.
Purple Power works by its self to strip down to the plastic/resin
lol, the opening got me. I am super curious how to strip models! So yeah, looing forward to this.
Was just about to strip a lot of black templars. Really glad I found your video it had a lot of great tips.
You sir are a message from the Lord Almighty. I’ve decided that I really don’t like using contrast on my ultramarines so I am going to strip them and do 22nd Nemesis Chapter Colors on them and you sir popped up just as I made the decision. Thank you so much.
Do you dilute your isopropyl with water at all? Great paint stripping tutorial super clear steps
Nope, just straight isopropyl
Two paints for the base? I'm curious! What's the new recipe if I may ask?
Spray paint army painter deep blue and then zenithal spray vallejo magic blue. It's a touch bright but falls right into place after some streaking grime once all the other bits are painted.
how did you do the volkites on the tartaros termies? it looks like the plastic heavy weapon and maybe the tartaros heavy flamer arm? its a cool way to build contekar
Exactly that! I've got a video in the works explaining how to do it!
@@lovedeathdiceawesome, looking forward to it. very cool way to make your own Contekar. i also like the various chaos marine chainswords you are using as Chainblades and chain glaves, ive done the same.
Kantor blue , dip wash nuln oil . then layer with kantor blue and highlight with 50/50 kantor/alaitoc blues
Kantor is an awesome color, reminds me of Prussian blue. I've found lately that i'm leaning away from citadel paints though, the pots just dry out so fast and paint consistency is all over the place.
My dude, MY DUDE. Not everyone in the world lives in the US. wtf is a simple green ? What is made of ? Whats the brand ? Every damn channel that have tutorials about striping minis talks about simples green i never say dfq is simple green
The US uses simple green. UK traditionally uses Dettol (sp?). Iirc, Australia uses something called Fairy Clean or something akin to it.
End of the day, it's whatever household grade degreaser you have available: give a test mini a bath for 24hrs and run with it.
Video mentioned LAs Totally Awesome. It's dirt cheap in the US, but elsewhere is bound to have similar.
Make sure to wear some gloves! Protect yourself and those painter's hands!
Stripping models seems to be all the rage lately when it comes to repainting models.
But in most cases if you've not applied thick coats that obscure the details, painting over the existing layers is the way to go. Saves time, money, and no noticeable difference as to whether you've stripped an existing paint job or not.
" if you've not applied thick coats that obscure the details, painting over the existing layers is the way to go"
but how many people who need to repaint their models will have done that? More than likely people who did a bad first job will have used too much paint.
@ge2719 a lot, possibly the majority of people's "bad" paint jobs is not being happy with the colours they've put down after seeing it on the model, and they've not applied thick layers. The models in this video did not look like they needed stripping, and are an example of not liking the colour.
Isopropyl alcohol reacts with waxier, often cheaper, brands of resin. You can't soak those types of resins in alcohol for more than a few minutes before you cure them.
Fair warning, iso can cause certain resins to soften or even degrade and oftem loosens superglue bonds if left for too long. Just be mindful when using it to strip 3d printed models!
It also doesn't get along with Finecast. My guess is softer porous resins are the issue.
ELO works great
Did you have any issues with the magnets in your cobalt keep bases when using the sonic cleaner?
None at all! I've heard that it can dislodge bits secured with super glue but it didn't happen to me. More than likely the distance between the magnet and the base was so small, bubbles couldn't get in there and mess with the connection.
@@lovedeathdice okay mine are superglued. Might be time to go to a 5 min epoxy
Some resins really don't like alcohol.
I'm not a chemist, so I can't tell you why that is, but let's just say, I have been stripping armies for a few years.
FW, finecast and Kromlech resin really don't like being submerged in alcohol for longer periods of time, spellcrow stuff and everything 3D-printed doesn't have this issue.
That would explain why my Kromlech pads turned to jelly :P
My ultramarines have 4 different colors of blue in the army… should I strip all my models?
That was my issue with my ultramarines.
Where did you get those helms/shoulders?!?!😧
Puppets of war! It's the vampire helms and shoulder pads
Ave Dominus Nox!
Big fan of not exploding.
for the resins that did and did not dissolve, it probably boils down to "water washable" or if they're not the "IBS like" from my experience. if it's cast resin, there should be warping and other problems, so don't strip resin models unless you've figured something out
Great vid dude!
Thanks boss!
I just discovered Ak-Interactive stripper product. Instead of dipping miniatures in a product that will make them kind of (too) soft, you just apply the product on the mini, wait for 3 minutes and paint goes off.
Sure, it'S maybe not for an entire army, but it's way better this way than the one in the video for about 1 to 6 minis.
And no, it 's not the same as isopropyl (even if it smells the same, there is probably some) because I tried the same method as suggested on the bottle and it does not work at all.
Ave Dominus Nox
Simple green has stripped every primer i have used.
Strange, no matter how long I let it sit in the simple green it just wouldn't come off. Maybe I applied it more thickly.
@@lovedeathdice could also be GW's primer formula. when i used spray cans i'd use krylon or army painter. i just prime with my airbrush now.
This is a great video for anyone looking to strip minis. However, the CC's reason for stripping his models, is a whole different bag of 'y u do dis?' From the appearance of the models, you could've achieved the dark blue look by doing a reverse zenethil with either a black/dark blue mix, or using a really thick, black oil wash.
A reverse zenithal is what I ended up doing after stripping them! It wasn't so much that the colors were off, it's that the airbrushing created a spotty look that I just hated. Spray paint got me the look I was going for with much less hassle
Refreshing to see someone doing a Horus Heresy army and documenting it on RUclips, sick to back teeth of Primaris. Hope to see more. well done!
I use Prussian blue for my night lords
It's a great color! My first attempt at night lords used Prussian blue as the shadow color and it was beautiful!
You realise you can put the alcohol and minis in your container and then put it into a water bath in the ultrasonic cleaner right?
Advert for sonic cleaner, got it
you could have skipped the isopropyl and just used LA's Finest...24 hours of that will get it done.
It's so wild, I tried that for 48 hours and it didn't work. I was shocked because I've seen it work wonders for @eBayMiniatureRescues