How to Build and Install Drawers with Blum Drawer Glides
HTML-код
- Опубликовано: 23 авг 2015
- Building drawers --specifically with 1/2" plywood and pocket holes for use with Blum 563H Tandem with Blumotion drawer runners. Printable drawings for notch hole location on my blog: bit.ly/1LsU1La
~-~~-~~~-~~-~
Check out: "Jack and Jill Bathroom Remodel (part 5)"
• Jack and Jill Bathroom...
~-~~-~~~-~~-~
Very helpful, thank you! I've been very frustrated with how crappy Blum's instructions are. This helps!
As a girl, it's really nice to see such a talented female woodworker! I'm glad I found your channel.
One of the best tutorials I have ever watch. THANKS!
This was probably one of the better tutorials for this drawer slide installation.
Thank you for the help!
actually one of the worst.
I just wanted to thank you... I was hesitant to start this project because every other video on here didn't break things down enough where I was comfortable... You gave all the info and more to do this correctly, and now I'm pretty sure I did.
If you aren't already married, I'm in... Just sayin' ;-)
Thank you for this well done tutorial. I was pulling my hair out with a set of these slides until I saw this clear and concise walkthrough of the process. Blum makes great hardware but their instructions seem to be written for professional cabinet installers and not DIY folks.
Great tutorial! I just finished my first drawer with these slides. I used 3/4" for the front and back so I could make a domi-drawer. I used 1/2" ply for the sides. To make it flush for the overlay drawer frontt I set back the slides 3/8" inch. Because the 3/4" front is 1/4" oversize I added that to the recommended 1/8" setback. Nice and flush. I also used the Rockler jig for the screw positions. On sale it was only $17, so well worth it since I'm doing my kitchen and have some other drawer projects on my list. Your tutorial helped me understand what was going on when I first started, looking at these slides, so thank you.
Thanks for the video and more confidence in my project. I ended up doing a couple things differently. I used a level to find mounting points for the rails but extended the rail and taped the level to it outside the cabinet to make it easier to read. Also, instead of measuring for the holes in the back panel I slid the completed drawer (minus the holes) onto the rails and pushed it into the hooks in the back to mark where the holes go in the back panel, creating two depressions where the holes need to be drilled.
I wish I had found this before I built my first drawer last weekend! I needed to make a drawer and install drawer sliders from the box store for my kids "oak tv cabinet" remake kitchen, making the fridge and freezer combo look similar to our own. This would have saved me hours of frustration. I got it done, but it doesn't look pretty. Your channel makes me want to start up a wood working shop spot in my garage and get busy with my house! Thank you so much!
+Melissa Brauneis Good for you for figuring it out and getting it done! Now next time you build and install drawers it'll be a bit easier for you (hopefully). Keep building!
Great detailed information Sandra! Thank you. I'll have to use them on my next drawer project.
Great tutorial video. I'm doing my first drawer install. This helps a lot. Awesome shop btw. Thanks for sharing. Cheers!
Hi Sandra.
These slides are great, we use them exclusively at the shop. One thing that is important to know about them is that they have all the adjusting you need. You can adjust the drawer left and right, up and down (on each slide individually), in and out and even tilt the front a bit.
Here in Israel Blum's hardware is one of the leading sellers.
Great videos!!
Cheers
Yoram Krengel Well not all the BLUM runners and locking mechanisms give you ALL those adjustments. I bought the cheap locking mechs and don't have side to side adjustability. I'm going to switch them if I have too many problems with my inset drawer fronts. Going to purchase the upgraded ones from now on.
+Sandra Powell aka {Sawdust Girl}
Please see the manual at: www.cabinetparts.com/media/pdf/auto/blumtandemblumotion563hgeneral.pdf
They do have "Four-dimensional adjustment".
Left-Right is in the orange locking device and other adjustments are in the slides themselves.
Good luck
+Yoram Krengel Thank you for working so hard to help me. LOL You only get side to side adjustment if you purchase the locking mechanisms with the wheel (which is shown in the pdf you linked to). The standard locking mechanisms which I used in this video only offer tilt adjustment no side to side. :-(
You made this look so easy. I'm still rough around the edges but hope to be this good one day!
newlynatjyoung It is easy once you figure it out..and then you have to remember it all. So I made the video for me as much as anyone else. LOL
Lol! Thank you for your videos!
Thank you for the video. It's very helpful. Wondering if drill templates are worthwhile getting...
Thanks for simplifying this! I agree the instructions for Blum could be less convoluted.
I have watched at least a dozen of these tutorials. Yours is terrific. You just got to love the Blum instructions. Work to the inside dimensions of the drawer for width but outside dimensions front to rear. Really? Metric measurements converted to numbers like 1 29/32". Thanks for the help. What I would really like to see is the adjustments.
Damn, nice shop.
Great video!
Ótimo vídeo, obrigado!
where did you drill your accepting holes on the back?I notice the hook/pin on the right side is different from the left.
I need to learn how to build rollout drawers for existing kitchen cabinets.
Excellent
Blum has an excellent calculator spreadsheet on their website as well. You select your hardware and it tells you what the finished width of your drawers needs to be.
With the complicated part numbers and options - they also have hardware selectors which will give you the correct part numbers to order so that you get everything you need too.
Joe and Liz Good to know...wish it would come up when searching the site for information. I find their website and instruction manuals very difficult to follow. Probably why my client needed extra explanation as well -- which is why I made the video. Most of my blog readers and clients are more visual like I me and we need things explained in a different way than what manufacturers generally provide. :-)
Understand that. The German's have a special way of organizing things - which isn't always apparent at first glance. Take a look at this and see if it makes sense:
www.blum.com/us/en/01/30/10/#PLANNING2
It is an Excel spreadsheet that uses macros in order to automate a lot of the process.
The video is good, and even a lot of cabinet guys get hung up on installing these products. Figured I would mention the spreadsheet as well, since it would come in useful for anyone who is looking to put together a larger list of sizes and types without having to work all the math and look things up one at a time.
Joe and Liz I really appreciate it. I'll check it out!
Good video but please use at least a miter gage and preferably a crosscut sled when cross cutting material like you did at 2:55 and below. That is the easiest way to get kick back and get injured with a tablesaw.
Good luck.
Ron
thanks for making this instruction clear video, but may i ask if 21" under mount slide can use on an deeper drawer (28" deep)?
I would choose longer drawer slides. I always select slides that are the closet to the size of the drawer (that will work with that drawer and with the clearance in the cabinet box).
Wow! are we seeing the next Norm Abrams from the New Yankee workshop....lol...good job
+MrAlienware1 I'm not new Norm. I'm Sandra, that's good enough for me. ;-)
great video! looks like the pocket screw heads are slightly proud of the surface. how will you account for that when installing the front? also, I bought some of those prefinished drawer sides. problem is the groove is 7mm but my plywood bottom is 5mm. did u run into that, if so how did you handle?
+dano242 Those 1" pocket screws have a flat head, unlike the other Kreg pocket hole screws and always seem to sit proud. I just attach the false front tight enough that the screws depress into the wood.
If the drawer bottom is loose, I use speedshims on the bottom of the drawer to push the bottom panel up tight. Then I cut off the excess shim with a utility knife.
So is both the depth and diameter of the borehole 1/4"? I appreciate the website and the videos.
+Brian Zirkle The diameter is 1/4". The depth needs to be at least 6mm which is just under 1/4". At least is the key phrase.
Hi, great video! I have a somewhat related question, for a drawer with a 20cm front, what would be the maximum usable inner height of the drawer(and what height would the sides of the drawer have) using those Blum slides? Thanks!
Your drawer sides can be the same height as your drawer front. The length and weight of the drawer is the only thing you need to pay attention with the Blum hardware.
most cabbies use #7 x 5/8" screws for fasteners and the jig for those under bottom holes and rear holes is 29 dollars at Rockler.
More accurate and faster than doing it by hand.Also the Kreg mini jig and 7/8" screws are better for the 1/2'" drawer construction.
kreg recommends placing their pocket holes 6-8" apart. do you really need 3 on each side of the drawers?
+Scott Haun (haunmade) Without any glue holding the drawer together I'm comfortable with three screws. You always have to determine what works for you in each situation. Canned recommendations don't always apply to everything.
Where do you buy the draw pre-finished and pre routed material?
+itsmenckgonzalez I picked it up at a local lumber yard and builders' supply. Call around to see where you can find it locally.
Sandra the Simplifier
Sandra,Very detailed "How To" video. But please edit the part where you are using the table saw fence to cross cut the drawer parts. This is an extremely dangerous practice - that should NEVER be attempted and could result in serious injury. When using the saw fence the board you are cutting should be longer than it is wide - so that the longer edge is against the fence ( rip-cut). If you are cutting the shorter edge of the board (cross-cutting) you should use a cross-cut sled or the miter gage, with the long against the sled fence.
Not good to crosscut on the tablesaw using the fence...when it binds, its going to violently pull the wood into/over the top of the blade.
+Lou Wit If you know how to lead the material into the cut, potential for binding and kickback is minimized. There is always potential for dangerous things to happen when power tools are in the mix but being intentional about what you are doing at all times is helpful.
I'm undergoing weeks of physical therapy as a result of that attitude. I can still do wood working, but doubt I'll play guitar or cello again. There is no substitute for safety. Not even 30 years of experience (in my case). As evident by your shop & technique, you are a real pro. Best wishes!
Sandra Powell aka {Sawdust Girl}
Sandra Powell aka {Sawdust Girl}
Lou is absolutely right. It's the first thing I noticed when I watched this video. You should NEVER cross-cut material using the fence like that. It's a very dangerous practice and this video should be taken down so that unsafe practices are not promoted. I have been building cabinets for more than 20 years. I did this ONCE when I was young and stupid, and there was a huge hole in the plaster wall behind my table saw for about a year before I patched and repainted the wall. You can't believe the force that a 3HP or 5HP tablesaw motor can generate on a piece of wood. I was lucky the hole wasn't in my head. Trust me, you are playing with fire. Please be safe instead of sorry.
am i being too dorky? At 6:15 when she drills through the hardware to get the holes in the right spot......sometimes I don't like to do that for fear of getting sawdust in the hardware. Now I aint sayin but the $48 jig...u can certainly make a simple wood block with the holes in the right spot and use that. Does anyone else worry about this?!
very nicely done vid... but!!!!... Girl, you only have one set of fingers... and?.... the way you cut cross grain against fence???... the best way to end up with few less digits... :-)) no criticism in this comment ... just about 45 years of experience working with cutting tools...... especially that you have a very nice chop saw right behind you... with pre-sets you can cut your drawer sides safely... all day long... or you may invest into building a sled or purchase commercially available sliding tables... other than that???:-)))))))) my hat of to you for a very informative video...
I need to build a sled. When I cut those, I pay close attention to how I'm pushing the wood through the cut but I agree, not a good idea. I've been lucky.
@ 2:40 - thats incredibly dangerous! use a cross cutting sled.
michele vitarelli pensé lo mismo
I agree Michele. That's a dreadful practice and I have bruises to prove it. This should be a crosscut NOT a rip. Dangerous and inaccurate and that part of the video should be taken out as it sets a bad example to novice uses of a table saw.
Don’t waste time with this video. Lookup the Bourbon Moth 3 part series on building cabinets. Part 2 covers drawer installation.