I got the same model. Just Hold the button to power off. And Yeah you need callus remover after awhile. Oh, That thing is even hard to take off. I just disassembled it. Was searching for cleaning tutorial specifically for that part and got stumbled to your video. Any luck on how to remove it?
I have that same one. If you hold the mode button for about 2 or 3 seconds it will shut straight off and then when you press it once again it will go back to the same setting it was on, at least if it is kept plugged in. Also I agree about the airflow, when it is on intake and I put my hand in front of it, the air just seems to come out so slowly, even when not dirty, but it can certainly keep a 150 square foot room cool if it's cold outside.
Wow bro that must be one of their cheaper models and they didn't care to make it good as the other one you mention but wow what a freak show you have to push the button like a thousand times to get it to do what you want i cant wait to see part two soon the cleaning good video and i enjoyed it
The controls are ridiculous LOL although someone said there is a way to get it to save the speed so maybe I'm using it wrong, I'll have to look at the manual.
Interesting! I am on the same page as you with electronic controls. Also you never know if they are 100% off! They're probably still powered on to some extent. Also interesting how cockeyed the label is on this fan. I would expect that more on a vintage fan, but not a new one... My parents had a similar fan years ago, but the cord came out the bottom. It eventually frayed and I attempted to fix it for them, but was really young at the time, and ended up not really knowing how(I figured this out after I cut the cord lol). It too was poorly designed.
You're correct, the control board is always 'on'. If you plug this into a Kill-A-Watt meter, you'll likely see a watt or two draw all the time, which is outrageous. There is definitely something not right about the logo, it almost seems like it came off and someone put it back on like that. Who knows.
Honest question-what, in your mind, do you think is more reliable about mechanical controls over electronic ones? I also used to feel the same way, but after the amount of things that have entered my shop and yours that have needed DeOxit to work properly again (and I've noticed that in some uses, DeOxit hasn't lasted very long before another coat is needed), or even replacement entirely such as some fan switches, I've come to the realization that the opposite may be true. And, it is a fact that I've yet to see an appliance with electronic controls fail. Sure mechanical switches are arguably easier to use, but that's because they're designed correctly; if this fan had a + and - button for each side for speed adjustment, for example, that would be far better. Plus electronic controls come with other benefits such as allowing the use of a remote control. The only downside I can think of is that electronic controls are more sensitive to static electricity (and I suppose surges), but perhaps I'm missing something else. Enlighten me.
There are a number of reasons why I strongly dislike electronic controls. The first I'll discuss is reliability. I've found electronic controls have occasional glitches. I have an air filter at work with electronic controls, and on numerous occasions the controls simply cease to respond while the unit is running and require the power be disconnected to turn the unit off. In my computer room I have a ceiling fan with a remote control, made within the last 10 years. The remote has a display on it to show what the current settings of the fan are. On a regular basis (at least several times per month), I will press the button on the remote to turn the light on, and the light doesn't come on, yet the control now shows the light is on. Sometimes I'll press it again and it will get a response the second time, but now the light is on and the remote says it's off. Other times multiple presses are required, or a power cycle from the main breaker of the fan and/or the remote. The same thing happens with the fan controls. This turns a simple task such as turning a light on into an annoying reminder of the fact that all new appliances are junk. I've never had a situation where I flip a light switch or turn a mechanical dial and it behaves unpredictably or erratically unless there is a drastic failure that requires human intervention to repair. Such traits seem to be readily available via electronic controls. Ease of repair and standardization: Back to the ceiling fan in the computer room, it recently developed a highly agitating issue where it makes a rapid clicking-type sound, even while off, so it's clearly coming from the electronic control board. A replacement board, if even still available, will likely be very expensive to obtain. Now to fix the fan, I will have to spend several hours designing a new control system for it from scratch like I did for the similar model fan in the bedroom. Have I had the mechanical pull chains pop out of the fans after 40 years of reliable operation? Absolutely. The difference is, a few dollars at the hardware store for a generic, standard size switch from any random brand and about 15 minutes on a ladder will fix the problem. If you're as ambition as I am, you can sometimes even finagle a new chain into the switch and keep using it. I've encountered a few mechanical controls on old box fans become noisy with age. While many are probably not willing, most people are ABLE to buy a can of D-oxit and spray it down the shaft of the switch. Not many are able to repair the circuitry of the electronic controls. In the event that, for instance a box fan switch fails, sourcing a replacement 3-speed rotary switch is easy. When the controls in this fan fail, there probably will be no replacing them other than finding a parts fan with a working control. Durability: Solder joints, for instance, are not very durable. When exposed to vibration, extreme temperatures, shock, etc., it’s not rare for them to break or enter into a state of poor connectivity, which can result in all sorts of issues. I encountered this issue with the radio in my car. Electric motors vibrate. While the vibration produced by this relatively-low-power window fan probably won’t be enough to ruin the board any time soon, it’s going to take a lot more to damage the connection of a proper ring or spade terminal than a solder joint. Many electronic controls use buttons and capacitors. Capacitors have a finite lifespan, any time the appliance is plugged in, the life of the capacitors is being used up. It is very likely they will fail before the mechanical components of a properly built appliance. Buttons, while to an extent are often able to be repaired without a working knowledge of electricity, will get dirty and loose sensitivity likely long before the appliance itself quits working (television set controls, for instance). Most people don’t wash their hands before controlling appliances and therefore it’s only a matter of time before skin oils and other foreign matters gets within the controls and impairs the functionality of the buttons. A mechanical switch is nowhere near as sensitive to this. Surges are absolutely a concern with electronic controls, especially because something like an electric motor is unlikely to be phased by a small surge, meanwhile a small surge could completely ruin the board. Annoyance and Distraction: electronic controls are almost always paired with beeping and some form of LED illumination, either in the form of an indicator light, LED segment display, or the backlighting of an LCD display. When I walk into a room, an LED being illuminated will capture my attention, and in some cases, for instance sleeping, be a complete disruption. I would never be able to use this window fan in the bedroom at night. When I turn on or adjust an appliance, I don’t want to hear an obnoxious beep. For example, if I wake up during the night and find the air conditioner to be set too high or too low to be comfortable, I want to silently turn a thermostat knob to my preference, not BEEP BEEP BEEP a button and wake everyone up in the process. A physical dial with proper labeling is a perfect example of something designed properly; it clearly indicates what it’s doing but only when you’re looking at it. It doesn’t distract, annoy, or unnecessarily capture attention. Electricity Usage: normally I don’t care about how much electricity something uses, if it works better than the “energy-efficient” modern alternative, I’ll gladly pay to use it. What I will not pay for however, is electricity wasted. Electronic controls use electricity while the appliance is turned off. I’ve sampled a number of small home appliances (dehumidifiers and air filters, for instance) and discovered they often draw somewhere between 1 and 3 watts while ‘off’. That’s not a lot of power relatively speaking, but it adds up. Suppose in a given house, there exists the following appliances, all electronically controlled: clothes washing machine, clothes drying machine, dishwasher, refrigerator, stove, stove range, dehumidifier, 2 air filters, 4 air-conditioners, 5 ceiling fans, 2 garage door open/closers, 2 portable heaters, and 3 portable fans. That’s a total of 25 small appliances, electronically controlled. We’ll say each uses approximately 2 watts when not in use. That will allot for a total of 50 watts, more or less wasted, at any given moment, appliances on or off. Since electricity is measured in usage over time, that will add up to be something of substance. There’s also an item of safety to mention here, and that is the fact that with a mechanical control (providing it's wired properly and the appliance's cord is polarized or 3-pin) in the off position should leave NO electricity present inside the appliance’s components. An electronic control board is always live and has electricity passing through a copious amount of components at any given moment, most all of which were cheaply manufactured with insufficient quality control and can safely fail or dangerously fail (overheat, combust, etc.) even while the appliance is ‘off’ at any given moment it's plugged in. Simplicity and Ease of Use: What someone finds intuitive is personal to them and will vary from person to person, but I can say from experience that many people, perhaps even the majority of the population of the older generations, find a set of mechanical controls easier to understand and manipulate. In the moment of this composition, I cannot think of any instances where I’ve come across something available with both electronic and mechanical control formats where I found the electronic one to be easier. I have used electronic control sets that I found to be intuitive, yet take more steps to do the same task. It is very true that more possibilities exist with their implementation such as having a remote control, but that does not appeal to me. I will admit that I have not seen a widespread failure of electronic controls, and I will admit that perhaps there is a fallacious correlation introduced as electronic controls often appear on appliances that were junk to begin with and may falsely get a bad reputation by association. However, with that being said, I’ve seen my fair share of failed electronic control boards pass through the shop and even experienced them first hand in the house. The number of irreparable (within reason) failures I've encountered with electronic controls is far higher than that of mechanical controls. With that in mind, and in conjunction with the ideas above, I affirm my stance for the use of mechanical controls only.
While I certainly wasn't expecting a PhD (this would've been a great idea for a video!), this response is quite opinionated and biased, as it is formed almost entirely on the association of electronic controls with modern garbage appliances. I was trying to ask why you think mechanical controls ARE better, not why you like them better. Some of these caregories are entirely subjective and do not contribute to this discussion, and therefore I will be ignoring them: -Annoyance and distraction -Simplicity and ease of use However, as I seek to form an objective comparison of the two, I would like to present further considerations to some of the very good points brought up. I've surrounded each thesis with brackets so as to not distract from them with examples. If I didn't directly address something, I accept and agree with it. Reliability: [While glitches can and do occur with electronic controls, "glitches" can and do also occur with mechanical controls.] There was a mechanical ceiling fan switch installed in the wall when this house was built that included a 3-speed fan control, a light dimmer switch, and a light on/off switch. A few years ago, the light on/off switch failed, in the sense that the light could not be turned off. Power had to be cut for a few days until there was time to research and purchase a new switch, in which an electronic variant was purchased, and it has had no issues since. In addition, I've had many encounters of volume adjustment knobs and other analog controls on even vintage stereo receivers requiring DeOx to be fixed, but after a few months' time they gradually end up back in their problematic state, on almost every knob I've ever repaired. This was not an issue with electronic increment-based volume controls. Ease of repair: Yes, when mechanical controls fail, they are far easier to service and replace without, or even with, a technical background. However, this is where we run into issues when we associate electronic controls with modern China manufacturing. [If the electronic controls were actually made well, they would last far longer without requiring any repair.] It's difficult to find electronic controls that were made properly since the technology is not as old and cannot be found on most vintage equipment, but let's take a Uniden 900 MHz cordless handset with rubber buttons, for example. What's usually the first thing to stop working? Either the buttons, the receiver capsule, or the charge contacts, all of which are mechanical failures. I suppose you could consider these things to be parts that are not designed properly (plastic buttons usually last longer), but the electronics (the actual board and its components) in the phone, 25 years later, are reliable as ever. Durability: To the point of capacitors having a finite lifespan, [everything has a finite lifespan]. Every time a fan switch is turned, the closer it gets to a failed state. Every time a plug is inserted into a socket, the looser the socket gets, until it has a fatal arcing issue. Every star in the sky will eventually explode. Yes, a switch may last longer than a capacitor, but then again capacitors are among the most accessible component to replace on a board, and capacitors can be made well enough to last just as long. The counterpoint can be made that a quality capacitor might cost far more than a switch, but switches today aren't well made either and don't reflect vintage quality. Electricity Usage: Unrealistic scenario aside (for one, there's a very high chance that the portable fans and heaters aren't powered or used at the same time), this was perhaps the best point made. However, while a fan switch may not draw power, it is always live. What's to say it won't arc or short? Just for the record, I'm not biased toward electronic controls, rather I'm indifferent, which is why I'm attempting to approach this with as open of a mind as possible and make a case for the pros and cons of each. Since your case contains mostly cons, I had to refute with as many pros as I could think of. As I said I used to feel that mechanical controls are far better, but experience has proven that this isn't always true. What is true is that vintage equipment is objectively better quality, and so are its components, and mechanical controls are associated with vintage equipment which introduces a large amount of bias. Therefore it's very difficult to draw a fair comparison. To do this properly, we need to look at the best possible qualities and designs featuring both (maybe something other than solder could be used on electronic boards?) and determine results from there. Unfortunately I'm not an engineer so I don't have the background to do this myself, but my main point to this thread was to bring awareness to both sides which I think was successfully captured.
@@Xyspade I think both views are captured quite thoroughly now. I will say that the association with modern appliances and cheap manufacturing does exist, but it's not exclusive. Casablanca's American made models from the 80s, which were built with very good quality, are notorious for their electronic controls failing, whereas the pull-string control models are often found working. Sure, a fan and a heater may not be in use at the same time, but certainly can be found plugged in, and turned off, simultaneously. Such is the case constantly here.
The electronic controls on any appliance that doesn’t really need it is kind of annoying and most people will tend to argue that electronics offer more flexibility but if you have to go through multiple steps to choose what you want is kind of ridiculous and appliances such as washers and dryers these days tend to have electronic controls and even if fans and major appliances are 2 different entities they both can have issues with unnecessary electronic controls. Just some food for thought.
Awesome video of the Holmes HWF0910AT Twin Window Fan, Jordan! When are you going to do a servicing & cleaning video of this fan?
Thanks, Aaron! Perhaps sometime this week.
@@JordanU - O. OK.
I got the same model. Just Hold the button to power off. And Yeah you need callus remover after awhile. Oh, That thing is even hard to take off. I just disassembled it. Was searching for cleaning tutorial specifically for that part and got stumbled to your video. Any luck on how to remove it?
I do have a video showing how to remove the clips.
union-find is cool
Spam is not, so stop posting it.
I have that same one. If you hold the mode button for about 2 or 3 seconds it will shut straight off and then when you press it once again it will go back to the same setting it was on, at least if it is kept plugged in. Also I agree about the airflow, when it is on intake and I put my hand in front of it, the air just seems to come out so slowly, even when not dirty, but it can certainly keep a 150 square foot room cool if it's cold outside.
Thanks for letting me know, I tried that and it did work. Less pressing on the button but still not as quick to use as the mechanical controls.
Late reply but no problem.
Wow bro that must be one of their cheaper models and they didn't care to make it good as the other one you mention but wow what a freak show you have to push the button like a thousand times to get it to do what you want i cant wait to see part two soon the cleaning good video and i enjoyed it
The controls are ridiculous LOL although someone said there is a way to get it to save the speed so maybe I'm using it wrong, I'll have to look at the manual.
@@JordanU Bro the controls are out of control lol true if you look at the manual then it should tell you how to run it
I like it
Uniden TRU9460
NZXT Kraken x62
2004 Fender American Deluxe Stratocaster
Goose
Interesting! I am on the same page as you with electronic controls. Also you never know if they are 100% off! They're probably still powered on to some extent. Also interesting how cockeyed the label is on this fan. I would expect that more on a vintage fan, but not a new one... My parents had a similar fan years ago, but the cord came out the bottom. It eventually frayed and I attempted to fix it for them, but was really young at the time, and ended up not really knowing how(I figured this out after I cut the cord lol). It too was poorly designed.
You're correct, the control board is always 'on'. If you plug this into a Kill-A-Watt meter, you'll likely see a watt or two draw all the time, which is outrageous. There is definitely something not right about the logo, it almost seems like it came off and someone put it back on like that. Who knows.
Honest question-what, in your mind, do you think is more reliable about mechanical controls over electronic ones?
I also used to feel the same way, but after the amount of things that have entered my shop and yours that have needed DeOxit to work properly again (and I've noticed that in some uses, DeOxit hasn't lasted very long before another coat is needed), or even replacement entirely such as some fan switches, I've come to the realization that the opposite may be true. And, it is a fact that I've yet to see an appliance with electronic controls fail.
Sure mechanical switches are arguably easier to use, but that's because they're designed correctly; if this fan had a + and - button for each side for speed adjustment, for example, that would be far better. Plus electronic controls come with other benefits such as allowing the use of a remote control.
The only downside I can think of is that electronic controls are more sensitive to static electricity (and I suppose surges), but perhaps I'm missing something else. Enlighten me.
There are a number of reasons why I strongly dislike electronic controls. The first I'll discuss is reliability. I've found electronic controls have occasional glitches. I have an air filter at work with electronic controls, and on numerous occasions the controls simply cease to respond while the unit is running and require the power be disconnected to turn the unit off. In my computer room I have a ceiling fan with a remote control, made within the last 10 years. The remote has a display on it to show what the current settings of the fan are. On a regular basis (at least several times per month), I will press the button on the remote to turn the light on, and the light doesn't come on, yet the control now shows the light is on. Sometimes I'll press it again and it will get a response the second time, but now the light is on and the remote says it's off. Other times multiple presses are required, or a power cycle from the main breaker of the fan and/or the remote. The same thing happens with the fan controls. This turns a simple task such as turning a light on into an annoying reminder of the fact that all new appliances are junk. I've never had a situation where I flip a light switch or turn a mechanical dial and it behaves unpredictably or erratically unless there is a drastic failure that requires human intervention to repair. Such traits seem to be readily available via electronic controls.
Ease of repair and standardization: Back to the ceiling fan in the computer room, it recently developed a highly agitating issue where it makes a rapid clicking-type sound, even while off, so it's clearly coming from the electronic control board. A replacement board, if even still available, will likely be very expensive to obtain. Now to fix the fan, I will have to spend several hours designing a new control system for it from scratch like I did for the similar model fan in the bedroom. Have I had the mechanical pull chains pop out of the fans after 40 years of reliable operation? Absolutely. The difference is, a few dollars at the hardware store for a generic, standard size switch from any random brand and about 15 minutes on a ladder will fix the problem. If you're as ambition as I am, you can sometimes even finagle a new chain into the switch and keep using it. I've encountered a few mechanical controls on old box fans become noisy with age. While many are probably not willing, most people are ABLE to buy a can of D-oxit and spray it down the shaft of the switch. Not many are able to repair the circuitry of the electronic controls. In the event that, for instance a box fan switch fails, sourcing a replacement 3-speed rotary switch is easy. When the controls in this fan fail, there probably will be no replacing them other than finding a parts fan with a working control.
Durability: Solder joints, for instance, are not very durable. When exposed to vibration, extreme temperatures, shock, etc., it’s not rare for them to break or enter into a state of poor connectivity, which can result in all sorts of issues. I encountered this issue with the radio in my car. Electric motors vibrate. While the vibration produced by this relatively-low-power window fan probably won’t be enough to ruin the board any time soon, it’s going to take a lot more to damage the connection of a proper ring or spade terminal than a solder joint.
Many electronic controls use buttons and capacitors. Capacitors have a finite lifespan, any time the appliance is plugged in, the life of the capacitors is being used up. It is very likely they will fail before the mechanical components of a properly built appliance. Buttons, while to an extent are often able to be repaired without a working knowledge of electricity, will get dirty and loose sensitivity likely long before the appliance itself quits working (television set controls, for instance). Most people don’t wash their hands before controlling appliances and therefore it’s only a matter of time before skin oils and other foreign matters gets within the controls and impairs the functionality of the buttons. A mechanical switch is nowhere near as sensitive to this.
Surges are absolutely a concern with electronic controls, especially because something like an electric motor is unlikely to be phased by a small surge, meanwhile a small surge could completely ruin the board.
Annoyance and Distraction: electronic controls are almost always paired with beeping and some form of LED illumination, either in the form of an indicator light, LED segment display, or the backlighting of an LCD display. When I walk into a room, an LED being illuminated will capture my attention, and in some cases, for instance sleeping, be a complete disruption. I would never be able to use this window fan in the bedroom at night. When I turn on or adjust an appliance, I don’t want to hear an obnoxious beep. For example, if I wake up during the night and find the air conditioner to be set too high or too low to be comfortable, I want to silently turn a thermostat knob to my preference, not BEEP BEEP BEEP a button and wake everyone up in the process. A physical dial with proper labeling is a perfect example of something designed properly; it clearly indicates what it’s doing but only when you’re looking at it. It doesn’t distract, annoy, or unnecessarily capture attention.
Electricity Usage: normally I don’t care about how much electricity something uses, if it works better than the “energy-efficient” modern alternative, I’ll gladly pay to use it. What I will not pay for however, is electricity wasted. Electronic controls use electricity while the appliance is turned off. I’ve sampled a number of small home appliances (dehumidifiers and air filters, for instance) and discovered they often draw somewhere between 1 and 3 watts while ‘off’. That’s not a lot of power relatively speaking, but it adds up. Suppose in a given house, there exists the following appliances, all electronically controlled: clothes washing machine, clothes drying machine, dishwasher, refrigerator, stove, stove range, dehumidifier, 2 air filters, 4 air-conditioners, 5 ceiling fans, 2 garage door open/closers, 2 portable heaters, and 3 portable fans. That’s a total of 25 small appliances, electronically controlled. We’ll say each uses approximately 2 watts when not in use. That will allot for a total of 50 watts, more or less wasted, at any given moment, appliances on or off. Since electricity is measured in usage over time, that will add up to be something of substance.
There’s also an item of safety to mention here, and that is the fact that with a mechanical control (providing it's wired properly and the appliance's cord is polarized or 3-pin) in the off position should leave NO electricity present inside the appliance’s components. An electronic control board is always live and has electricity passing through a copious amount of components at any given moment, most all of which were cheaply manufactured with insufficient quality control and can safely fail or dangerously fail (overheat, combust, etc.) even while the appliance is ‘off’ at any given moment it's plugged in.
Simplicity and Ease of Use: What someone finds intuitive is personal to them and will vary from person to person, but I can say from experience that many people, perhaps even the majority of the population of the older generations, find a set of mechanical controls easier to understand and manipulate. In the moment of this composition, I cannot think of any instances where I’ve come across something available with both electronic and mechanical control formats where I found the electronic one to be easier. I have used electronic control sets that I found to be intuitive, yet take more steps to do the same task. It is very true that more possibilities exist with their implementation such as having a remote control, but that does not appeal to me.
I will admit that I have not seen a widespread failure of electronic controls, and I will admit that perhaps there is a fallacious correlation introduced as electronic controls often appear on appliances that were junk to begin with and may falsely get a bad reputation by association. However, with that being said, I’ve seen my fair share of failed electronic control boards pass through the shop and even experienced them first hand in the house. The number of irreparable (within reason) failures I've encountered with electronic controls is far higher than that of mechanical controls. With that in mind, and in conjunction with the ideas above, I affirm my stance for the use of mechanical controls only.
While I certainly wasn't expecting a PhD (this would've been a great idea for a video!), this response is quite opinionated and biased, as it is formed almost entirely on the association of electronic controls with modern garbage appliances. I was trying to ask why you think mechanical controls ARE better, not why you like them better. Some of these caregories are entirely subjective and do not contribute to this discussion, and therefore I will be ignoring them:
-Annoyance and distraction
-Simplicity and ease of use
However, as I seek to form an objective comparison of the two, I would like to present further considerations to some of the very good points brought up. I've surrounded each thesis with brackets so as to not distract from them with examples. If I didn't directly address something, I accept and agree with it.
Reliability: [While glitches can and do occur with electronic controls, "glitches" can and do also occur with mechanical controls.] There was a mechanical ceiling fan switch installed in the wall when this house was built that included a 3-speed fan control, a light dimmer switch, and a light on/off switch. A few years ago, the light on/off switch failed, in the sense that the light could not be turned off. Power had to be cut for a few days until there was time to research and purchase a new switch, in which an electronic variant was purchased, and it has had no issues since. In addition, I've had many encounters of volume adjustment knobs and other analog controls on even vintage stereo receivers requiring DeOx to be fixed, but after a few months' time they gradually end up back in their problematic state, on almost every knob I've ever repaired. This was not an issue with electronic increment-based volume controls.
Ease of repair: Yes, when mechanical controls fail, they are far easier to service and replace without, or even with, a technical background. However, this is where we run into issues when we associate electronic controls with modern China manufacturing. [If the electronic controls were actually made well, they would last far longer without requiring any repair.] It's difficult to find electronic controls that were made properly since the technology is not as old and cannot be found on most vintage equipment, but let's take a Uniden 900 MHz cordless handset with rubber buttons, for example. What's usually the first thing to stop working? Either the buttons, the receiver capsule, or the charge contacts, all of which are mechanical failures. I suppose you could consider these things to be parts that are not designed properly (plastic buttons usually last longer), but the electronics (the actual board and its components) in the phone, 25 years later, are reliable as ever.
Durability: To the point of capacitors having a finite lifespan, [everything has a finite lifespan]. Every time a fan switch is turned, the closer it gets to a failed state. Every time a plug is inserted into a socket, the looser the socket gets, until it has a fatal arcing issue. Every star in the sky will eventually explode. Yes, a switch may last longer than a capacitor, but then again capacitors are among the most accessible component to replace on a board, and capacitors can be made well enough to last just as long. The counterpoint can be made that a quality capacitor might cost far more than a switch, but switches today aren't well made either and don't reflect vintage quality.
Electricity Usage: Unrealistic scenario aside (for one, there's a very high chance that the portable fans and heaters aren't powered or used at the same time), this was perhaps the best point made. However, while a fan switch may not draw power, it is always live. What's to say it won't arc or short?
Just for the record, I'm not biased toward electronic controls, rather I'm indifferent, which is why I'm attempting to approach this with as open of a mind as possible and make a case for the pros and cons of each. Since your case contains mostly cons, I had to refute with as many pros as I could think of. As I said I used to feel that mechanical controls are far better, but experience has proven that this isn't always true. What is true is that vintage equipment is objectively better quality, and so are its components, and mechanical controls are associated with vintage equipment which introduces a large amount of bias. Therefore it's very difficult to draw a fair comparison. To do this properly, we need to look at the best possible qualities and designs featuring both (maybe something other than solder could be used on electronic boards?) and determine results from there. Unfortunately I'm not an engineer so I don't have the background to do this myself, but my main point to this thread was to bring awareness to both sides which I think was successfully captured.
@@Xyspade I think both views are captured quite thoroughly now. I will say that the association with modern appliances and cheap manufacturing does exist, but it's not exclusive. Casablanca's American made models from the 80s, which were built with very good quality, are notorious for their electronic controls failing, whereas the pull-string control models are often found working.
Sure, a fan and a heater may not be in use at the same time, but certainly can be found plugged in, and turned off, simultaneously. Such is the case constantly here.
I have a request, can you make another video of that oscillating Holmes window fan.
Yes, it’s on the list of things to clean up and get on video.
The electronic controls on any appliance that doesn’t really need it is kind of annoying and most people will tend to argue that electronics offer more flexibility but if you have to go through multiple steps to choose what you want is kind of ridiculous and appliances such as washers and dryers these days tend to have electronic controls and even if fans and major appliances are 2 different entities they both can have issues with unnecessary electronic controls. Just some food for thought.
I agree.